Removing Rust with Vinegar and Salt
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- I'm cleaning up a vice I got from my grandpa to put on my newly finished bench. I read an article (www.finewoodwor...) about using salt and vinegar to remove rust, so I thought I'd give it a try.
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The vinegar leaves an acidic coating on the metal, which will quickly begin flash rust. Once the piece is rust free and removed from the vinegar, wash it well with water and baking soda. This will neutralize the acid from the vinegar. It greatly reduces the flash rust. Another tip is to never put rusted bolts/nuts in vinegar. The rust will come off, but the bolts/nuts may lose some metal from the threads during the process. This could cause them to be useless.
What would you recommend for removing surface rust from nuts and bolts?
@@nathantaylor6853 A brass wire wheel on a bench grinder. If it is only a little surface rust, vinegar will take it off pretty quickly. If the rust is even starting to get heavy, don't use vinegar, since it may decrease the bolt size and increase the nut size threads. It might be a best to just get new bolts and nuts, unless the rust truly is just very minor surface rust.
Thank you for adding this awesome tid-bit...Who knew?
If they a re that rusted they are already useless
@@kyl272 9hgyh
Welp, welcome to another episode of Where Quarantine Has Taken Me Today
🤣Same here
I’m tryna clean my rusty penny board bolts lol
😂😂
Lol
🤣
How nice that your preserved your dad’s vise that he made himself. You are a true gentleman.
VISE!
@@Arthur172B
You are right. I edited my spelling.
You could have put water into the bucket, on the outside of the plastic bag, in order to displace the air in the bag and maximize the contact of the vinegar on your tool.
Good idea! Why didn't I think of that? Thanks for the tip, and take care.
Brian Hilson What I do is put plastic milk jugs / soda bottles , fill them up with water so they don't float .
you smart
Andrew Beals o
Or just use a battery, get a spare metal rod to extract the rust from the component you want to get the rust off of, then connect a possitive wire to the rod and the negative to the rusted component, then fill the bucket up with water and baking soda then place the components inside the bucket and leave it overnight, (note connect all the components together when their in the water!)
I said, "Propane" not "cocaine" ,Dammit Bobby!
🤣 he does sound like hank
LOL.
Hahaha i notice than..
I just tried malt vinager with salt on a pair of keys I have been fighting with getting the rust off and wow it took the rust off within a minute!!!!! Amazing!
Why he sounds like that guy from Jack in the Box
Adrian Baltazar I cant unhear it now lmao
don't throw out the mixture when finished,,,,spray it on your fenceline and around fence posts power pole etc. to kill weeds
And ants
The sodium chloride (salt) increases the conductivity and facilitates a redox process.The salt is just a catalyst to speed up the reaction given how dilute vinegar is. It forms CuCl2 in minute quantities which enables the neutralization to speed up.
Are we watching the same video? There's no copper parts, nor an electric current flowing?
@@AnnaVannieuwenhuyse Who said anything about electrical current. This is only chemistry.
Hank hill?!
Pithuahua13 I thought Ray Ramano
Ray ramano lol
my first thought right when it began. lol
Kermit the frog
There hardly any rust.. A simple brush could easily do it
Let me know what you think, and thanks for watching! Take care.
Hmmmmm Salt & Vinegar.........
Suddenly I feel like hot chips.
1974UTuber lol I love salt and vinegar chips
Me too
1974UTuber How about great british fish and chips yummy...!!!
You certainly don't look like hot chips. Or is that like Bad?
Add electricand voila diy electroplate
He sounds nothing like Hank Hill... you people are deaf and have clearly never heard a Jack in the Box commercial.
Dave Arrkain -nailed it!
I thought the same thing. Lol definitely Jack for sure.
Ray Romano
Just found you...I'm a grandma...you are a great teacher cause I got it!
After cleaning rust off, spray wd40 and it will displace water
your dad and grand dad would be proud of you fine job
Looks like just using vinegar would have been better. Isn't salt an alkali and vinegar an acid? Wouldn't the salt negate the effectiveness of the vinegar's rust removing ability? Somehow I just don't get using salt.
I use the same concoction to kill weeds... LOL
That's a nice, simple looking vice. Almost Scandinavian looking in its minimalist design. It looked clean to me to begin with. I usually use a wire brush and a cordless drill for removing rust like this. I never thought of using vinegar.....?
Salt causes rust, but the chemical reaction of combining vinegar and salt produces hydrochloric acid, which removes the rust.
What's really funny is that I bet getting these restorer guys to do the dinner dishes takes threats at gun point.
Haha, I actually like doing the dishes, but I'm sure you're mostly right.
That's because men have a predilection for manly things. Like machines and things that go "bang". Except nowadays, men are told that's bad. Men should feel guilty for being manly.
Marilynne Rapp and the
I'd cut the lawn rather than wash dishes lol.
Marilynne Rapp, You stay out of this! Bwahaha
I’m hooked on using vinegar ( like the Dad was always using Windex on the movie My Fat Greek wedding). My home is from 1909. I’ve soaked my old rustic antique door knobs & hinges & old rusty tools…in vinegar ( inside a bucket). The following day, I just wiped off the vinegar with a brush ( some of the vinegar, I just peeled it off) - worked great ! I use vinegar just about for everything. I never thought about using salt with the vinegar. I’ll give that a try. Tysvm !
You didn't need the salt for it to work. You also did not use enough vinegar, you need to cover it completely to get the best result. You should have rinsed the vice off with water before scrubbing to stop the vinegar from getting inside any pores you open up while scrubbing.
Boiling steel in vinegar will work as a blackening agent so be careful.
SilentStorm )
Boiling vinegar also releases toxic gas which can kill you in an enclosed space, ventilate!
@@allistermcgrugan3562
I like the family history lesson
it might be a good idea to rinse the metal parts in a mixture of warm water and bicarbonate of soda for about 30mins , just to make sure all acid is neutralised. Then you wipe everything dry and apply some heat to make sure all water is evaporated. Have you tried ACF 50 ? good rust protector
Here in the UK we usually put salt and vinegar on our chips - you'd probably call them French Fries. I can honestly say I've never seen a rusty chip!
Seriously, whatever you use to clean rust off, be careful how long you leave it in there. A few years back my son decided he wanted to try cleaning up my late Dad's old hand drill so he stripped it all down. I can't recall what liquid it was he left it in - maybe vinegar, maybe Coke or maybe something else. Whatever it was, frankly, he forgot about it so it was in there for at least weeks, maybe months.
When I finally decided I should take over and remove it, the chuck was so badly pitted and holed it would have been unsafe to use. The metal (I guess the chuck is softer metal than the chassis/frame) had been significantly eaten away. We have plenty of corded and cordless drills now so it's not as though we *would* have used it. All the same ... it was Dad's 😞
I'd have filled the bucket with water, forcing the bag to hug the vice.
Good advice, saves on the amount of vinegar needed.
Who else thought it was a rack of ribs as well as a prank when he opened that bag?
I have done this with vinegar (no salt) for years in restoring my Model A or vintage auto parts. You have a really bad technique by using the black trash bags and colored pail as you did. Simply put everything into a clear plastic bin and then cover the tools with enough vinegar to be over the top of them. Set the whole think out into the hot Texas sun (or any other sun that is near as hot) in full sunlight and let nature take it's course. It can take up to seven days, but most of the time only a couple of days to remove virtually all of the rust and any remaining will brush off or rinse off quite easily. The residual vinegar will not hurt the environment when poured out. You must remember to oil the parts with a protective agent like Corrosion X or they will flash rust pretty soon after all your work is done. Do not use WD40 for this, but you can use a light coating of oil or machine oil to prevent the flash rusting from happening. Forget to do this and expect that rust to reappear No need for black plastic bag or a colored pail. Also remember that if you allow the parts to drip onto any floor surface or such when removing them, you need to clean it all up immediately. To me, I do not see any issue with handling the tools in this mixture with bare hands instead of using gloves as you did. Like say, I am now 70 years old and have used this exact technique probably since the age of 12. I have some sockets in a mixture at the moment and no worry over anything eating away the entire part. That hot sun to bask them all in is the major thing in helping it work for you.
a1930ford how do prevent rust from coming back? Does any motor oil works ?
I agree.vinegar is the best.i recently heard about transmission fluid and acetone mixed is an excellent rust cleaner????
Hot apple cider vinegar with a lot of salt makes a very energetic reaction. I had old screws from an RC car completely rusted, and in about 10 minuet they were completely clean. Good stuff.
The temperature of the vinegar makes no difference and apple cider vinegar is less acidic than regular vinegar. So, you basically just did exactly what he is doing with less chemical reaction. lol
@@andrewnyberg5726 "The temperature of the vinegar makes no difference." Sure about that?
@@zackthebongripper7274 yes.
@@jeffclark5268 Yes what.
@@andrewnyberg5726 You're wrong though. Heat ACCELERATES chemical reactions. It's pretty basic science.
Try it on something blued for example. Room temp vinegar takes a while, but heat the vinegar and it strips the bluing in seconds.
Once cleaned, how about coating the vice with Automatic Transmission Fluid for rust preventation?
I suppose that would work, as anything that contains oil will prevent rust. Take care!
Al Gorel 3bb uite
Is that perhaps why he used 3-in-1 oil?
I would have used Brillo pads or SOS pads and then put on a thin layer of rem oil or other oil protectant over the steel once it was clean. Never saw this way to remove rust..
Thanks for sharing!
If you filled the bucket with water after wrapping the vice up, it would leave less airspace inside the bag.
U could polish it to mirrorfinish then it won' t rust so easily anymore too
Works really well on brass and copper too….
A container with a bicarbonate solution to dip in will quickly neutralise the acid, then protect with oil etc..
sounds like Hank Hill. Instantly subscribed!
Looks like a great tool worth saving. Well done on restoring something that was made to last, for other generations, it may well get a lot more use when you are gone.
Not to mention good vices are expensive.
Just spray paint em. Defeat the rust permanently
I can of brake cleaner probably would’ve worked better than anything or carburetor cleaner and you could’ve done it all in one day.
I tell you wut this guy knows about rust and removal accessories. 😀
Here is what is really happening in this experiment on rust removal: The salt will dissolve in the vinegar, which is mostly water. However, a chemical reaction will also occur with the vinegar's acetic acid (CH3COOH) and the ions of sodium and chlorine from the salt, producing sodium acetate and a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid. Thus, the mixture can be used to clean pennies and remove mild rust from items.
MalibuLawyer n
No. It doesn't work like that. You can't simply get hydrochloric acid or sodium acetate by mixing together sodium chloride and acetic acid. There is no reaction. Sodium chloride (table salt) is the product of reaction of a strong base and acid, namely Sodium Hydroxide and Hydrochloric Acid, and since Acetic Acid is a much weaker acid it can't displace the chlorine ion of the chloride. If it would be a stronger acid like Sulfuric Acid then it would work like that. But in this case, no.
Im too confused becaouse im a grade 3 in philipines
Glad I checked the comments, I was trying to figure out why there was an Na atom in hydrochloric acid (HCl) in the initial post. Seemed a bit unconventional to me. I was hoping someone would clarify what was going on.
Shut up nerd
Hello,
why don´t you take "Saltacid" Salzsäure 10 % ( in German).The Zinkplaters use it. Even to plate Zink on rusty Material
After you do that get some WD-40 Dry Lube it has teflon in it to prevent anything sticking and causing Rust watch their video WD-40!!!
As long as you don't think it's a lubricant. Biggest misnomer ever, but it IS good for 3 days or the next rain.
I hear this idea a lot. Where did this silliness come from? Salt CAUSES rust! Even stainless steel rusts in the presence of salt. Vinegar WITHOUT salt removes rust. The salt adds no benefit. Soaking steel in a salt solution is a foolish idea.
You are an ABSOLUTE IDIOT, and completely wrong about the salt, which does not do what you bleat when mixed with Vinegar (mild acetic acid).
I have used this vinegar solution for years in restoring Model A and Chevy vintage car parts with great success. Forget using the plastic bag as you did and simply get a clear plastic bin to put the parts and mixture into and set out into the direct hot sunlight for a day or two (Texas hot sun is the best.). You will achieve better success than doing this process as you did, but always remember that the rust devil is just around the corner, so flash rust can happen very quickly if you do not treat the freshly restored metal with something like Corrosion X to stop that devil in his tracks. WD40 is not a long term solution to stopping any potential flash rusting of metal parts. Also remember that the strength of the vinegar can be important. as well. Canning vinegar or even cleaning vinegar is much more powerful or concentrated, but if you have the bigger pocketbook, they also sell an even higher strength of vinegar than either of them in a lot of grocery stores, including WalMart. I believe it is about 32% acidity or such, but not for sure. I never used salt with my vinegar mix and I sure did a lot of brake drums, bumpers and parts galore when I was into ding such. It is much more user friendly and less equipment necessary than electrolysis or even sand blasting. Still, flash rusting is likely if you do not treat the parts immediately with some sort of preventative afterwards. Ditch all that unnecessary bucket stuff and plastic bags, as they hamper more than they help. The hot sun beating down on a clear plastic bin filled with vinegar and water will do the trick more efficiently than what you used. You also must immerse the parts in the solution and not try to use paper towels to help suck it up and disperse it onto the parts. This method you use is great for small tools, as well, but there are products sold at Harbor Freight which will not just remove the rust, but also use and additive to keep the flash rusting away. It is much more expensive than what you are showing though and even what I recommended, but it does indeed work. It is called Evapo-Rust.
U dont need the salt..just put vinegar 100%
Don't use salt again, just plain vinegar would do.
Really?
Should have put some cooked cucumbers in with it.then you would have iron rich pickles
what if you have rusted chairs and table?
Wrap them in newspaper or something else absorbent, then saturate that with vinegar, then wrap with plastic. The more vinegar you can keep in contact with the metal, the better. Take care!
2:57 *Imagine* if it did though? Open up the bag to see nothing but a small metal clamp. With a note from the wife saying "Use up all my vinegar again. I dare you."
I'm going to try this! Thank you so much!
Not a problem!
Yogurt is somewhat acidic... it should work...
But the word YOGURT is originated in Turkish, not Greek... and they will fight each other about it... like they do about just anything....
Where I come from we have a saying.. ..
the pinnacle of courage is to enter a Greek restaurant and ask for Turkish coffee..
***
PS as somebody noted.. the salt may be the cause for the fast rusting after cleaning...
Interesting points. The more you know...
Thanks for watching and commenting! Take care.
Nice I don't even own a vice but watching this was therapeutic nice job +1 for sentimental value. At least from me lol
This guy sounds exactly like Harold Ramus. (He played Russell in the movie “Stripes” with Bill Murray.
I got really confused when I looked away and suddenly heard King of the Hill playing in my ear...
Thanks a lot !! Never seen as good result as this and without any power from abattery :) But do not paint it !! This vise should be as is - I`m an old schooler - trust me :)
Thank you man it work for me
How ever i am a sri lankan.
I used sri lankan vinager and salt
I just cleaned my table saw last night but i just wiped it off & i steel wool cleaned it i didnt wax it right away i was saving that for the morning. Shall see
when u opened the bag (beginning) and saying you shouldn't have left it 5 days and u hoped it hadn't dissolved...etc...and you saw the paper towels, I thought someone had played a practical joke on u and replaces it with bbq chicken...( made me laugh anyway. hehe!! ) rest of the video was great.
Thanks for the info and the video. Two questions. First of all i want to remove rust from tools. Will be better if i spray them after this procedure with a metal paint? What do you think? And the most important. After almost 3 years from this video,what is the condition of the tool? The rust came back? Do i need to do this often? Greetings from Greece
This method removes rust, and that is all. Rust will return immediately if left unprotected. Paint is not the best method to prevent rust because it chips off tools and it cannot be used on working parts. Firstly, if you dont want to polish the items you can get a better appearance after you remove the rust...let it get very slightly rusty again then use rust remover with Phospheric Acid ingredient. That will convert very fine rust into a dull grey coating, which looks very nice. Then to protect the phophor coating or bare steel, I have always used Lanolin spray (the oil from sheep wool), which penetrates and lubricated then sort of semi-dries to a soft coating, but sticks like a grease on the surface. Works great for objects you don't touch, but can be slightly sticky or gooey when you first grab (say) a pair of pliers. I like the smooth and silky feeling but it can be annoying sometimes. I am currently testing Penetrol spray, which is called a "drying oil". It has super low viscosity and will creep into every crevice, screw threads, etc and literally seal off the oxygen that causes the rust. On the outside surface it dries to a slightly glossy coating that feels nice to touch. Note you need to make sure to leave tool hanging (not laying on a surface) while it dries, so there is no build up. The coating is really thin and invisible, and you dont really need to remove the rust first, plus you can even paint over Penetrol with solvent-based paints. I think Penetrol is the best for things like drill bits, pliers, etc but the lanoline is better for lubrication of hinges etc and it also tends to self-help if the film gets rubbed off. Lanolin also smells nice and feels wonderful on your hands! Other things like WD40, 3-in-1 oli, engine oils, Camelia oil and other stuff you hear about online just don't work well in a humid climate, or for tools stored in a outbuilding like garage. They are OK for tools that you use continually, but why not use something better and not have to worry about re-oiling every few months?
Good solution for rust. Thanks
The salt being added to the vinegar creates a chemical reaction, making hydrochloric acid. It’s not an abrasive additive.
From footballer to chemist
Video title should be, "Removing rust with vinegar and salt or brine your Thanksgiving turkey."
Rinse in boiling hot water. As soon as you remove item from the water they will dry almost immediately. Immediately oil. I have cleaned many tools that were "unusable" this way.
You need viniger only you dont need Sault
Could just use a wire wheel. Or sandblaster. Or electrolysis.
It seems that vice may be destined to be come a family heirloom.
BTW, air or actually oxygen is needed to cause rust - that's why it's called oxidation. But what concerns me Brian is that you didn't disassemble the parts of the vise to neutralize the acid in the vinegar, and remove any salt residual salt left in the seams and around the socket head cap screws and threads. I believe if not disassembled asap after this procedure rust will form in these joints and over time will become rusted together and almost impossible to take apart.
Not knocking the desire to use home concoctions to save money, after all that,s why I am watching this, but when using acids and salt on ferrous metals, serious consideration needs to be taken to prevent accelerated rust in the faying surfaces. Try working on the suspension of a 1950 Oldsmobile after driving on the winter roads of 1968
New Jersey, that's when my battle with rust began.
The safest and most effective stuff I've used is called EVAPO-RUST®, used to be only available online from the originator, I found some a few months ago at Harbor Freight, to tell the truth the stuff from HF seems to work slower than the old online stuff but still works well if directions are followed. It is expensive but some times worth it. No I'm not their shill.
P.S. It my be cheaper at O'Reilly Auto.
you should have removed the bolts because acids can go inside the threads but once corroded they will be tough to remove
Yep, and I would replace the allen head cap screws with stainless.
@@noahdunaway stainless steel is not resistant to acids, it is only resistant to moisture and air against rust. Even ferric chloride can corrode it.
@@janami-dharmam i understand that, I was a machinist and metallurgy specialist at Exxon, I just like using stainless for not having to deal with the rust. You make a good point and that is why we used tantalum and other exotic metals in acid environment at our alcohol unit.
This is a very gentle way to clean silver jewelry too. I've used it for the last twenty years or so to clean my silver Navaho jewelry. It won't harm soft semi-precious stones like tourquoise. You can then use tooth paste to polish it. This will also remove tarnish form brass and copper too.
Wow I hope this will help an old candelabra I Own. You are a clean guy, I admire men who are clean and organized. Thank you for the video!!
done right nice
20 below huh? See any dogs stuck to fire hydrants?
and i would probably Recommend painting it after it is dry as most paints stop rust from forming again
Good advice. I haven't gotten around to painting it, but with a light coat of oil it's stayed rust free so far.
That is good
a clear coat if you want to keep it looking original
could galvanize the parts.
God Damn it bobby
Your test proves nothing useful.
Any acid will remove rust AND it will also eat away the base metal too. HCL is a "Strong acid". But acids, especially strong acids are not good rust removers in general.
1. A good rest remover works slowly and only removes or converts the iron oxide and does not attack the base metal or the original corrosion protection like zinc galvanizing.
2. A good rust remover also prevents new rust from forming until it can be painted or plated.
3. A good rust remover is also cheap.
Toilet bowl cleaner does not do this as the part will begin to rust again. It eats the Galvanizing AND the base metal. Toilet bowl cleaner is a bad idea on thin sheet metal.
That bolt in toilet bowl cleaner has no corrosion protection left..
Rust takes along time to form and you are not going to get true results in 10 minutes.
Never use HCL, Muratic acid or toilet bowl cleaner if you care about your parts and the end result.
How to Stop Rust. Clean the metal. Then seal it from the atmosphere / Oxygen source. A good plan is a multi layer protection approach.
For heavily pitted thick items use a wire brush or sandblast first. Rinse and use 5% vinegar and let is soak for a few hours to a few days. Check every 4-6 hours .Vinegar likes Iron oxide more than it like zinc but it will attack the Zinc plating. So timing is important. Rinse with bottled distilled water, NOT Tap Water. **
**Then a couple coats of Ospho or Corroseal. then POR Paint (black is cheapest) . Then apply any top coat paint you desire. It will never rust again.
OR
*** Spray with WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor and rub with a cloth for short term protection. For longer term protection use Caig D5 and a cloth. Seal in an air tight bag then send part out to be Nickle plated then copper, silver, Heavy gold or Brass plated. Chrome plating is optional.
For sheet metal, you want to save the Galvanizing as much as possible.
For light rust. Use a green scrubbing pad and WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor. What ever that does not remove, use 5% Vinegar with gloves and a Stainless steel wire brush. (Try not to use power tools or you will just take off the Zinc plating and make your problem bigger.)
Never soak Sheet metal in any acid unless you want new holes.
Then rinse in distilled NOT Tap water.
Then and do ** or *** above.
Areas with holes will need to be replaced / Patched. the Then two coats of Ospho or Corroseal. Then POR Paint.
For textured or rough surfaces use silica sand or baking soda with the WD40. DO NOT use baking soda with Vinegar. Then rinse with bottled distilled water, NOT Tap Water. If using baking soda on steel. Keep as cool as possible to prevent any chemical reaction with the zinc. Do not let sit. do small areas at a time. Rinse often.
EvapoRust is Phosphoric acid and a mild corrosion inhibitor similar to Ospho. Ospho is balanced and converts the Rust to iron phosphate and only needs to be wiped on (twice) not soaked like Evaporust requires. Ospho leaves a paint ready rust free surface.
As For Rust converters, They are essentially a vapor barrier offering limited rust prevention. They need all to be coated and sealed.
Do not use if you intend to have the part electroplated. They convert iron oxide to: Iron Tannate using Tannic acid , or Iron Phosphate using phosphoric acid or to Fe304 Magnetite or Zinc Chromate, ZnCrO4 If the item is Galvanized. The best rust converters are the Fe3O4 converters, like Corroseal. Surface prep is crucial and the part must be wire brushed then degreased with Acetone and a commercial water based degreaser.
Then apply the rust converter in a dry low humidity environment, Wait 48 hours and Repeat Two coats. Check adhesion in several spots with your fingernail. Wipe off any excess.
Reapply as needed. Then paint wit POR within seven days.
Salt raises the acid level of the vinegar makes it more potent .
Good that I watched this video O.o
I wanted to remove rust from a garlic press, just found out today that it's made out of aluminum, too....
I got my relic rusty M35 WW2 German helmet(sorry) soaking in vinegar & salt right now! Just hope it don't hurt the partial decal that's still on it🤔
You get me of course
Worked well with me! I get impatient so I tried to scrub every few minutes. Not very efficient though. Just follow the video and let it soak for a long time
Wipe off the vinegar..... never clean off in water... OBVIOUSLY!!
A little chemistry 101. The chemical equation for rust is just oxygen and air. Salt is an acelerator where rust already exists. But I think the way the mix works causes the ions to act a certain way or maybe accelerates the rust removal as well.
OK I DONT CARE
salt causes rust when applied dried to a metal because salt absorbs humidity rusting the metal. Mixed with vinegar it has a different effect on metals.
Can I use this solvent to remove rust from inside the barrel of shotgun
Will it destroy the chrome layer ?
Awesome
From my experience salt is important because it has abrasive properties. When I clean my bong I use rubbing alcohol with salt generously and it’s extraordinary how the salt scrubs like the ocean consistently. Nice bro.
Great video. Can olive oil be used?
Olive oil is not an abrasive solution
vinegar is great for getting rid of corrosion & lime as well surprisingly
Old auto tire lying around? Cut and make 2 squares, vise jaw size = recycled, non maring super clamp inserts
There is a new form of WD-40 that dissolves rust and leave a protective coating to inhibit furth development.
Olive oil works great against rust. That rust that was showing up as you were cleaning, is called "FLASH-RUST," quite common. If you don't want to worry about rust at all, I suggest you paint with something like epoxy (two-part) paint. One part paint, One part hardener.
Olive oil is what has been used for centuries as a coating on clean iron or steel to seal the surface. I dries into a sort of thin hard varnish. In the 18th % 19th centuries, olive oil was commonly used to wipe down cleaned musket barrels in European and American military forces. An inventory ordered by Gen. Henry Knox, Sec. of War in the US in the 1990s, revealed huge amounts of olive oil if ordnance stores. It was called "sweet oil". Petroleum-derived oil did not come into widespread use until after the mid-1800s.
I've also used this for weeds for decades. The non-toxic, non-poisinous way to kill weeds.
can you use wd40
Virgin olive oil will protect from rust. It also makes old rusty items look great. The tiniest amount is needed. Olive oil is also edible of course so not a worry if you get it on your skin.
Now add some hydrogen peroxide....
Fudmdud hmm de di e uthe mountings locksmiths official provisional outlandish oxidisation officiate officiate
ill tell you whut
mister reck what
mister reck lol the eyelash
So when I can dunk my entire frame into a vinegar bath.. many of these vids would be helpful.
Sorry but this isn’t a rust repair video, it’s only covered in brown dust. Show me brake callipers that reside in the UK and you’ll see what real rust is
Straight wax (such as Minwax) without silicones can be removed from wood with mineral spirits - this is why we wax our tablesaws and other cast-iron woodworking equipment. Yes, wax is a poor protectant against water, but it's better than nothing.
Agreed, and in the end it doesn't matter for most of us. My basement and garage are pretty dry, so any rust formation will be minimal, as long as you put something on the bare metal, whether it's wax, 3in1, or some special snake oil. People who live in humid environments would have more problems. Take care!
Andrew Beals qfoxchapelpublishing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/Q/u/Quick_Cute_Carving_Projects.jpgfoxchapelpublishing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/Q/u/Quick_Cute_Carving_Projects.jpg