Wow, my 1980 quintrex is looking better every day. I wouldn’t have believed that a fantastic looking new boat would have corroded like that. Thanks for the info!
I installed garden sprinkler throughout my boat including underneath my treadplate floor. After a day out I just hook the hose and salt away muxer up to the hose fitting, turn it on. Have a beer, turn off, let it sit for another beer, turn it back on and have a beer while flushing it all out.
@darrynbowden3290 nah. I'm not a fan of polystyrene it absorbs moisture, promotes corossion, becomes waterlogged, bits break off and can foul your bilge pump. I have 150 plastic 2 litre milk bottles underneath the floor, provides 3000N of bouyancy which is the equivilent of 20 inflatable lifejackets. Just remove the labels and tape the lids on. Before you think I'm some milk junkie I spoke with my local Cafe and went down every afternoon for a couple weeks grabbing a coffee and as many empties as I could carry to get what I needed, yes they thought I was nuts.
Washing helps but it is the Zinc plates and blocks that prevent the corrosion. They get attached in several places. For fresh water boats you use Magnesium plates and blocks.
I am a retired dual qualified Chemical Engineer with a life long love, and obsession for caring for aluminium alloy boats. If I may, I would like to share with you, some details on how to preserve and protect your baby. Big picture stuff first i.e. macro protection. The arch nemisis of aluminium alloy is electrical contact with disimmilar metal in the presence of an electrolyte; in our case, saltwater. So the first thing I have done with all my rigs to date, is to make sure that the outboard and trailer are electrcally insulated from the hull. My hulls ride on polymer non-conducting skids so the only other electrical contact betwwn the hull and the trailer is the winch hook and the safety chain hook. I have clear plastic tube slid over both hooks to insulate then from the hook up fitting integral to the hull. I have polymer belt inserts between the top of the transom and the motor landing and polymer patches under the motor transom clamps so the motor cannot electrically 'see' the transom and therefore hull. Whereever possible, I have avoided using fasteners penetrating the hull, and the only factory installed stainless floor panel screws are all liberally coated in Duralac, by me. I have just, again, very recently, wandered through a boat retailers yard, and shuddered at typical uninsulated outboard anchor bolts being directly brought into electrical congress with hulls. The shafts of these bolts should be shrouded in high desity, deformation resistant polymer tube, 8n concert with Duralac. I could, and, would like to, go on, but I guess there are not so many other technical fuss-pots like me!
Thanks for that willshunting. I'm actually looking at doing a further video on this as I am continuously finding more holes appearing in my hull due to corrosion. In my research I have found this website (fractory.com/aluminium-corrosion/) that explains the various ways that corrosion can occur in aluminum. They are basically related to what you said - an electrochemical reaction. In my case, I may have something more like crevice corrosion. I am finding the corrosion holes are wet to touch meaning there may be sediment and water being retained on the inside of the hull due to structural beams or the floatation foam that's pushed in there. I wont know until I can take the floor out and have a good look in there. If its the case, i was thinking of coating the inside of the hull with something like Tectyl 502. I'm thinking it will provide some additional protection for a few years before having to clean out the inside of the hull again and apply some more. And thanks for your detailed information. I know that my deck screws are stainless steel and that they are installed without any Duralac like substance. They are directly screwed in. So I will get some of that Duralac and do the screws when Im putting the deck back in. I'll also look at the outboard and trailer situation and see if that needs any isolation methods.
Bare aluminium typically forms a passivated layer of aluminium oxide which is generally protective against corrosion however galvanic and stray current induced corrosion can manifest as localised pitting and eventually full plate thickness pin holing. In addition to your other efforts, I would be checking the entire electrical system to ensure there is no earth to hull leakage or other induced currents. Again, if the motor is not electrically isolated from the hull, stray earthing current can result in localised sections of the hull acting as an unitended sacrificial anode leading to incipient pitting, particularly in high structural stress zones. Pits must be flushed with acetic acid and then removed once the cause has been identified.
I own a 2014 420 renegade, I remove floor boards and foam once a year. Gerni with truck wash let dry, vacuum spray lanolin inside hull. Reinstall foam and floor, after every trip I wash with CT 18 spray fittings, under gunnels, outboard motor with Inox M4. Been doing it since new no corrosion yet.
That is the perfect routine to be doing. I'm sure you wont have corrosion issues following that. I'll be doing similar. Thanks for providing the comment Adam.
Get a high lift jack from 4wd super centre jack the front up (use caution with the jack) that way it will give you the lift to get everything out. My driveway angles the wrong way so when its reveresed up water used to sit in it till i put the jack under it
I had boats for 30 years. I have had lazy times but never had corrosion from debris. I've been searching a lot lately as I bought a boat with 28 rivets or screws on the underside. I ripped everything out. I believe it to be electrosis. At the back the battery tray was fairly corroded at each screw point. The boat owner must have fitted them using a different metals. Dissimilar metals the experts say. Add salt water or even freshwater and electrosis with start. The other problem...and boat yards do this according to an auto electrician... is caused by earthing the electronics to the hull not back to the battery. A friend of mine had a screw fall out near the cigarette lighter. A wire earthed the boat. Now he has to get it cut back and welded. Washing your boat is exactly the right thing to do. As is keeping it dry. But, if you get more holes check all screws have been fitted with tef-gel or another type of barrier sikaflex maybe? Along with electrical wires being in good condition and earthed to the battery.
Thanks for that. Yes im getting holes again. Im going to pull everything out in winter and have a look. I believe it electrolysis. Ill go thorough the wiring and give everything a good clean. Spray the inside of the hull with some sort of corrosion protection. Try and slow down tbese holes hey
@@AdventurePrimal yep. I always believed if you use stainless screws it's ok. Not so from my research. Any screw needs to have tef gel..there's another brand I can't remember the name of..or they can start corrosion. Your boat is painted. So you should see bubbled paint near or around the fitting. You can test for electrosis with a volt meter so I read. Put the positive against the hull or point of corrosion and earth the neutral. The voltmeter should read zero. If not you have electrosis. I've read once you have it ya stuck. But I know guys who cut the corrosion out renewed with a patch and it was fine after that. Good luck with it all. Oh, anywhere indifferent metals touch there should be a barrier. It's the reason you see rubber under the ribs on the hull. All it needs is salt water and it can start.
Surely the holes would have been caused by some old sinkers creating electrolysis from dissimilar metals. I wouldn’t have thought corrosion from debris would cause the holes?
Hey Peter. Old sinkers will certainly do that but there were none in the bottom of the boat. Also, the main corrosion (and holes) occurred on outside corners where a sinker could not sit as they would fall of and into the pressings. I guess when you think about it, those small pebbles and rocks would contain ores and minerals that could cause the same issues as metals. I'm going to give the boat a good washout from now on to eliminate this as a possible cause for the corrosion.
No it won’t. If you want the corrosion to stop you need a barrier between the aluminium and everything else. Clean all ally then spray everything with Lanotec hd lanolin
Wow, my 1980 quintrex is looking better every day. I wouldn’t have believed that a fantastic looking new boat would have corroded like that. Thanks for the info!
Yes. It may be that the older gear was made better. Seems to be the thing with all gear these days.
Thanks for watching and subs.
I installed garden sprinkler throughout my boat including underneath my treadplate floor. After a day out I just hook the hose and salt away muxer up to the hose fitting, turn it on. Have a beer, turn off, let it sit for another beer, turn it back on and have a beer while flushing it all out.
ohh that is the best idea I've ever heard. Damn thats good. Does the floatation stuffing get in the way?
@darrynbowden3290 nah. I'm not a fan of polystyrene it absorbs moisture, promotes corossion, becomes waterlogged, bits break off and can foul your bilge pump. I have 150 plastic 2 litre milk bottles underneath the floor, provides 3000N of bouyancy which is the equivilent of 20 inflatable lifejackets. Just remove the labels and tape the lids on. Before you think I'm some milk junkie I spoke with my local Cafe and went down every afternoon for a couple weeks grabbing a coffee and as many empties as I could carry to get what I needed, yes they thought I was nuts.
@@bigaaroncunny thanks for that. That's one of the best tips I've heard. I think I'll start to collect plastic bottles.
Washing helps but it is the Zinc plates and blocks that prevent the corrosion. They get attached in several places. For fresh water boats you use Magnesium plates and blocks.
certainly need to look after new boats hey
I am a retired dual qualified Chemical Engineer with a life long love, and obsession for caring for aluminium alloy boats. If I may, I would like to share with you, some details on how to preserve and protect your baby.
Big picture stuff first i.e. macro protection. The arch nemisis of aluminium alloy is electrical contact with disimmilar metal in the presence of an electrolyte; in our case, saltwater. So the first thing I have done with all my rigs to date, is to make sure that the outboard and trailer are electrcally insulated from the hull. My hulls ride on polymer non-conducting skids so the only other electrical contact betwwn the hull and the trailer is the winch hook and the safety chain hook. I have clear plastic tube slid over both hooks to insulate then from the hook up fitting integral to the hull.
I have polymer belt inserts between the top of the transom and the motor landing and polymer patches under the motor transom clamps so the motor cannot electrically 'see' the transom and therefore hull. Whereever possible, I have avoided using fasteners penetrating the hull, and the only factory installed stainless floor panel screws are all liberally coated in Duralac, by me. I have just, again, very recently, wandered through a boat retailers yard, and shuddered at typical uninsulated outboard anchor bolts being directly brought into electrical congress with hulls. The shafts of these bolts should be shrouded in high desity, deformation resistant polymer tube, 8n concert with Duralac.
I could, and, would like to, go on, but I guess there are not so many other technical fuss-pots like me!
Thanks for that willshunting.
I'm actually looking at doing a further video on this as I am continuously finding more holes appearing in my hull due to corrosion. In my research I have found this website (fractory.com/aluminium-corrosion/) that explains the various ways that corrosion can occur in aluminum. They are basically related to what you said - an electrochemical reaction. In my case, I may have something more like crevice corrosion. I am finding the corrosion holes are wet to touch meaning there may be sediment and water being retained on the inside of the hull due to structural beams or the floatation foam that's pushed in there. I wont know until I can take the floor out and have a good look in there. If its the case, i was thinking of coating the inside of the hull with something like Tectyl 502. I'm thinking it will provide some additional protection for a few years before having to clean out the inside of the hull again and apply some more.
And thanks for your detailed information. I know that my deck screws are stainless steel and that they are installed without any Duralac like substance. They are directly screwed in. So I will get some of that Duralac and do the screws when Im putting the deck back in. I'll also look at the outboard and trailer situation and see if that needs any isolation methods.
Bare aluminium typically forms a passivated layer of aluminium oxide which is generally protective against corrosion however galvanic and stray current induced corrosion can manifest as localised pitting and eventually full plate thickness pin holing. In addition to your other efforts, I would be checking the entire electrical system to ensure there is no earth to hull leakage or other induced currents. Again, if the motor is not electrically isolated from the hull, stray earthing current can result in localised sections of the hull acting as an unitended sacrificial anode leading to incipient pitting, particularly in high structural stress zones. Pits must be flushed with acetic acid and then removed once the cause has been identified.
@@willshunting yep. Ill try and check all that whilst i have the floor out. Easier to see cable runs then.
I own a 2014 420 renegade, I remove floor boards and foam once a year. Gerni with truck wash let dry, vacuum spray lanolin inside hull. Reinstall foam and floor, after every trip I wash with CT 18 spray fittings, under gunnels, outboard motor with Inox M4. Been doing it since new no corrosion yet.
That is the perfect routine to be doing. I'm sure you wont have corrosion issues following that. I'll be doing similar.
Thanks for providing the comment Adam.
You just made me go down and re-wash the boat🤣🤣
That's good. You need to look after it. Don't make the mistake i made.
Get a high lift jack from 4wd super centre jack the front up (use caution with the jack) that way it will give you the lift to get everything out. My driveway angles the wrong way so when its reveresed up water used to sit in it till i put the jack under it
Nice. Good idea. Definitely will help with the flushing out. Thanks for that tip.
I had boats for 30 years. I have had lazy times but never had corrosion from debris. I've been searching a lot lately as I bought a boat with 28 rivets or screws on the underside.
I ripped everything out. I believe it to be electrosis.
At the back the battery tray was fairly corroded at each screw point.
The boat owner must have fitted them using a different metals. Dissimilar metals the experts say. Add salt water or even freshwater and electrosis with start.
The other problem...and boat yards do this according to an auto electrician... is caused by earthing the electronics to the hull not back to the battery.
A friend of mine had a screw fall out near the cigarette lighter. A wire earthed the boat. Now he has to get it cut back and welded.
Washing your boat is exactly the right thing to do. As is keeping it dry.
But, if you get more holes check all screws have been fitted with tef-gel or another type of barrier sikaflex maybe? Along with electrical wires being in good condition and earthed to the battery.
Thanks for that. Yes im getting holes again. Im going to pull everything out in winter and have a look. I believe it electrolysis. Ill go thorough the wiring and give everything a good clean. Spray the inside of the hull with some sort of corrosion protection. Try and slow down tbese holes hey
@@AdventurePrimal yep. I always believed if you use stainless screws it's ok. Not so from my research. Any screw needs to have tef gel..there's another brand I can't remember the name of..or they can start corrosion. Your boat is painted. So you should see bubbled paint near or around the fitting.
You can test for electrosis with a volt meter so I read. Put the positive against the hull or point of corrosion and earth the neutral. The voltmeter should read zero. If not you have electrosis.
I've read once you have it ya stuck. But I know guys who cut the corrosion out renewed with a patch and it was fine after that.
Good luck with it all. Oh, anywhere indifferent metals touch there should be a barrier. It's the reason you see rubber under the ribs on the hull. All it needs is salt water and it can start.
Think i seen you at Horizon shores the other day. Great vid mate
Yes i was there on Saturday and Sunday fishing overnight at jumpinpin.
Surely the holes would have been caused by some old sinkers creating electrolysis from dissimilar metals. I wouldn’t have thought corrosion from debris would cause the holes?
Hey Peter. Old sinkers will certainly do that but there were none in the bottom of the boat. Also, the main corrosion (and holes) occurred on outside corners where a sinker could not sit as they would fall of and into the pressings. I guess when you think about it, those small pebbles and rocks would contain ores and minerals that could cause the same issues as metals. I'm going to give the boat a good washout from now on to eliminate this as a possible cause for the corrosion.
Can I use pool acid to wash inside hull?
Hi Fabian. No I would suggest that. Only use acid that is recommended your use on your boat hull material otherwise you could be making things worse.
Decent 5083 H116 alloy does not do this.
No it won’t.
If you want the corrosion to stop you need a barrier between the aluminium and everything else. Clean all ally then spray everything with Lanotec hd lanolin
Thanks Nic. Yes barrier protection is a good tip
I can guarantee non of you will have corrosion issues if you follow my one simple tip like I do.DON,T USE YOUR BOAT!😅
hahah that would do it
Best boat is someone else’s
Telwater product? Early millennium hulls were terrible.
PS…subbed.
How did you patch those corrosion holes?
I had them cleaned and then welded up
cheap ass aluminium thats the problem and getting top dollar for it
I think youre on to it there