That rosewood veneer is absolutely gorgeous. Not sure I could have resisted getting their gold or dark grey drivers just for the aesthetic with that beautiful veneer.
I generally tended towards the copper/gold drivers myself. They look absolutely stunning in Sapele, dark American Walnut and Rosewood. The natural paper coned CHP70s are wonderfully suited to clear coat finishes on either Baltic Birch plywood, or Maple veneer. If you’ve not already availed yourself of the opportunity, I’d highly recommend trying to get your ears on a pair of the MAOPs. The cone treatment is expensive and has a high failure rate, so they are not a cheap driver, but definitely not snake oil.
Great build! I got concerned however when I saw how you cut the panels down on the table saw in the beginning. I would highly recommend using push sticks and not wearing gloves near high-RPM rotating machines as it is a safety risk of being dragged along in with them at worst case. Push sticks can be replaced, not so much your fingers/hand!
Love the rosewood veneer! When trimming the veneer with the router, If you have have problems with slight splintering the end grain, try a sharp chisel. When you get the angle just right it'll slice through the veneer leaving a perfect edge. Try it, you won't believe how well it works and how easy it is to do! 🤣
You are a very smart man not very many people know to do that with the super glue to keep the particle board from deteriorating where the speakers are being held down very good Trick Use that many times when I build my own speakers and when I built speakers for customer Done not a lot on custom jobs Makes the cabinet last a lot longer from the vibration especially when you have people that love to turn the volume up
What I have always done, is to drive the screws in, than remove. Then I put CA glue into the screw hole, and immediately drive screw in, and then back out again. That coats the inside of the screwhole walls with the ca glue, vastly improving their gripping strength. Never had a single tear out after doing that in all of my speaker builds.
Gorgeous. I really like small full-range speakers. I wouldn't call these "horns," though. More like a resistively-damped transmission line. Subscribed.
There is a U.K. supplier of Mark audio drivers amongst other drivers and parts etc called KJF. He is great to deal with and great service, cheaper too. 👍
Something most people don't know; Don't twist mult strand wire when using crimp connectors. And you should never solder or tin wires especially before crimping/camping, seen plenty of these fail because of it.
@@DIY-AUDIO The crimp or clamp, when applied correctly on bare copper, actually bunches up the strands and deforms the copper, which is malleable, and compresses it to form a secure and often quite well sealed connection. This can't happen with a tinned wire as the solder is hard, uneven and won't deform to the same extent creating hot spots on the crimp/clamp. The solder also has voids in it which means when it heats up some of the voids will evacuate and the blob of solder can reduce in size, especially when under pressure. The wire then becomes loose, if not already loose. Twisting the wire and crimping/clamping will prevent it bunching and deforming as it should, this is why we should use ferrules on screw connectors with multi strand wires and multiple conductors. Clearly on a car, after ten years living in the damp uk weather a crimp will corrode and fail. Adding heat shrink, especially adhesive lined is a good idea as it will add another level of sealing and give support. A good crimp however should grip the insulation of the wire providing strain relief. If you're going to solder use solder bucket connectors which will have an additional strain relief on the connector body. Finally copper work hardens i.e. it becomes hard and brittle as it is bent, moved, hit and subjected to vibrations. Heat cycling copper anneals it and it becomes more ductile, this one reason why over tightening screw clamps causes them to work loose, especially when multiple conductors are inserted. Ultimately, use the correct wire size and connection combination. T.E. Connectivity and other manufacturers/suppliers have tutorial videos for this on TH-cam. There is also documentation on their website. I didn't intend to write that much but once I started it kind of flowed. Hope this helps you and others understand what is happening and helps everyone produce high quality and more reliable work.
Cyburg Needle, the most widely built ML-TQWT in Germany and ideally suited for Markaudio drivers,, uses no damping material in the back part of the speaker, so you probably frustrated the workings of an ML-TQWT
I found it! 😂 Then this is Mass load transmission line - Bass reflex in my category, produce deeper bass than normal BR box with better quality, the definition among horn, TQWT, TL are blur but I think they all share the same theory, I just build a cab that goes wayyyyy too deep down to 20Hz@-3dB in near field testing with 6.5” bass driver, maybe not usable but it really can shake！ I’m a fan of Markaudio driver too 👍
Built more than a few designs with FR drivers myself over a period of 15yrs or so - mostly Mark Audio, as far back as the original EL70 for CSS - and had a bit of cringe myself watching the bevel cutting without using a push stick.
Bellissimo il monovia, una strada "contorta" anche se banale in apparenza. La bellezza della semplicita' per contenere costi produttivi e consumi di corrente al contatore.
Hi, for such small drivers they really have a solid sound (depending on the types of music you listen to - these aren't the drivers if you are into heavy rock!!) currently building a different set with the same drivers. I then hope to make a video comparing them so will have a sound test for both.
This is a very well made *BASE REFLEX* speaker. It works on the *HELMHOLTZ RESONATOR* principle. But it is not a "horn" speaker in any way or it would resemble a Suzerphone with a very large flared trumpet-like output orifice. (They used to use "horn" speakers on mechanical phonographs, but to work well they need to be prohibitively large).
@@DIY-AUDIO okey, hear about this first time. I use plywood allmost time. I have one question more, did you ever use some filler before veneering, filling some deep scrats/ holes, i makes 3 test veneering yesterday by using car 2k filler, snicker wood filler. Test with car filler going wrong totally cause pva cant glue together with 2k fillers, test with wood filler(snicker) glued together, but the contact really weak/ pva glued on filler but when you try remove it, its come loose with filler. So the wood filler is shit too. Now im using router to cut out a bit larger holes and fill them with pice of mdf and a little smaller defects with pva and wood dust or something, its work better. Mybee i dont use right water based fillers but allmost what i found in estonian markets didnt work when you want to finnish speaker cabinets using veneer.
Interesting build - I have a pair of CH50s in the small build, I'm missing some depth I feel (I have Castle Harlechs which are a dual loaded 1/4 wave with a tweeter). The smaller cabs just miss a bit of bass. I have some 9 ply baltic birch that I could make a pair with, alternatively I'll make a practice guitar amp.
Cheers Jon, never had an issue, a good quality glue and it isn't going anywhere!! . More likely to use pins though if I was butting all the joints but cutting and gluing all the joints at 45 degrees on mdf gives an incredibly strong joint with just the glue.
In the off state, you get a good house for the mouse) I can imagine the surprise of the mouse at the moment the acoustics are turned on). I'm just kidding, of course. Great job.
Nice build. I never really liked the woodworking side of speaker building but this is really fun to watch. If you dont mind me asking, in your opinion which is the best affordable 4 inch FR driver? I am currently building a Bluetooth stereo speaker and looking for a good 4 inch FR or coaxial speaker to use for the project.
Thanks, I prefer the finishing as it's what can make something individual. Basically though I don't have the patience to work out Crossovers hence the FR drivers. Personally the Markaudio Pluvia 7.2HD is great for the money once run in. But, depending on the money you have I'm sure there are better as I'm sure some would argue!! but I'm not made of money so all drivers I've used on my builds are between £10- £50.
@@DIY-AUDIO haha. I always say don’t have the patience for woodworking but it’s an important part of the build so I am really trying to get better at it. Thanks for your recommendation. I am building it as a job site radio for my father and have never used FR drivers before but I must admit these sound much better than I expected. I’ll look into those drivers as they seem right within my budget.
@@alfaholic3 if it for a job site radio and its going to get battered and thrown around, I'd use cheaper drivers if I were you and design some cages to protect them. At least if they do get damaged it will be really cheap to replace them. I built a cheap boombox for my daughter (build is on the channel) and they are only about £13GBP each!!
Would've rather you seen you use the putty on the need to speaker on the terminals instead of the foam because the phone will run away and deteriorate the putty will stay there and keep vibration down better than the foam
New one on me Earl but, I must admit I've never read the back of a bottle of PVA!! Personally though with most of my builds being MDF, I'd rather have too much glue than too little as i prefer a really strong bond and am happy to wipe up the excess!!
It's sad they don't have 25mm marine plywood like we have here, (very expensive there). To make your speakers. É triste eles não terem compensado naval 25mm (muito caro lá). Para fazerem suas caixas de som.
Yes, plywood here is very expensive. Probably 4x cost of MDF and as the channel is just a hobby, I don't think the wife would appreciate me spending anymore🤣
At least that's what I thought. I've just looked at the Plans and they recommend ply over MDF.. I always thought the weight and deadness of the MDF was an advantage
Fantásticos! Cuanto me gustaría sentirlos...Quisiera pedirte un Favor...Las Medidas, para poder hacerlo yo. Un saludo de ante mano..Barcelona España. .
Очень красиво но совершенно бессмысленно. Раструб рупора диаметром 5 см.? Это не рупор, не tgwp, не фазоинвертор, не закрытый ящик. Откуда такой проект? В чем смысл такого оформления? А так красиво, да.
I DON'T LIKE MDF !!!!! Why not plywood ? As I see you have a router . So why you didn't make the swallows for the driver, binding posts and the internal baffle (making the baffle a little wider for better sealing and durability) before start gluing the panels. Also why you didn't leave one side panel un-glued for adjusting the staffing ? My experience teaches me not to involve with something I don't like. Quick crafting with a beautiful finish
For the size, they sound especially great with classical music. Check the design on the website link. It's small but definately a small referral to a horn
Where is the analysis of the design based on which you decided to make this box? where are the response, phase, impedance, delay, offset curves and generally all their reasoning and design work? I'm sick of seeing carpenters invalidate an entire science... what you're showing us has nothing to do with a speaker. it's a box with a loudspeaker...
@@DIY-AUDIO I've studied what this channel did... that's why I made the specific comment... with me you don't have to impress some ignorant subscribers who, whatever you do, open their mouths and throw whatever flattery they can. face it you have one of the oldest speaker designers and a teacher... of real speakers... not speaker boxes for the internet
Nice build, and I am sorry, but the finish is terrible. It really needs flattened by block sanding, then refinishing. There is way too much waviness, dirt, and just terrible looking roughness to the finish as is.
That rosewood veneer is absolutely gorgeous. Not sure I could have resisted getting their gold or dark grey drivers just for the aesthetic with that beautiful veneer.
Thanks, the chn-50 are only in silver though!!
I generally tended towards the copper/gold drivers myself. They look absolutely stunning in Sapele, dark American Walnut and Rosewood. The natural paper coned CHP70s are wonderfully suited to clear coat finishes on either Baltic Birch plywood, or Maple veneer.
If you’ve not already availed yourself of the opportunity, I’d highly recommend trying to get your ears on a pair of the MAOPs. The cone treatment is expensive and has a high failure rate, so they are not a cheap driver, but definitely not snake oil.
Cool build... Thanks for taking the time.. where do you buy your veneer ?
Great build! I got concerned however when I saw how you cut the panels down on the table saw in the beginning. I would highly recommend using push sticks and not wearing gloves near high-RPM rotating machines as it is a safety risk of being dragged along in with them at worst case. Push sticks can be replaced, not so much your fingers/hand!
Cheers Bill!!
My mom lost one of her fingers when she used the rotary saw while wearing gloves.
Love the rosewood veneer!
When trimming the veneer with the router, If you have have problems with slight splintering the end grain, try a sharp chisel. When you get the angle just right it'll slice through the veneer leaving a perfect edge. Try it, you won't believe how well it works and how easy it is to do! 🤣
👍
They look amazing ! And this veneer is incredible !!! Nice job, once more !
Cheers Marc
You are a very smart man not very many people know to do that with the super glue to keep the particle board from deteriorating where the speakers are being held down very good Trick Use that many times when I build my own speakers and when I built speakers for customer Done not a lot on custom jobs Makes the cabinet last a lot longer from the vibration especially when you have people that love to turn the volume up
Thanks, yes it was trial and error that I now use the super glue. Especially good on the thinner MDF but now use it on all the builds.
@@DIY-AUDIO I'll be using that trick on all my subsequent builds. Thanks.
Veneer looks marvelous.
What I have always done, is to drive the screws in, than remove. Then I put CA glue into the screw hole, and immediately drive screw in, and then back out again. That coats the inside of the screwhole walls with the ca glue, vastly improving their gripping strength. Never had a single tear out after doing that in all of my speaker builds.
Gorgeous. I really like small full-range speakers. I wouldn't call these "horns," though. More like a resistively-damped transmission line. Subscribed.
Thanks
There is a U.K. supplier of Mark audio drivers amongst other drivers and parts etc called KJF. He is great to deal with and great service, cheaper too. 👍
Cheers Matt.
Appreciate you for leaving a link for the music too! Your speakers turned out as if built by a pro! Nicely done!❤
Thankyou
Something most people don't know; Don't twist mult strand wire when using crimp connectors. And you should never solder or tin wires especially before crimping/camping, seen plenty of these fail because of it.
Everyday a school day!! 👍
@@DIY-AUDIO The crimp or clamp, when applied correctly on bare copper, actually bunches up the strands and deforms the copper, which is malleable, and compresses it to form a secure and often quite well sealed connection.
This can't happen with a tinned wire as the solder is hard, uneven and won't deform to the same extent creating hot spots on the crimp/clamp. The solder also has voids in it which means when it heats up some of the voids will evacuate and the blob of solder can reduce in size, especially when under pressure. The wire then becomes loose, if not already loose.
Twisting the wire and crimping/clamping will prevent it bunching and deforming as it should, this is why we should use ferrules on screw connectors with multi strand wires and multiple conductors.
Clearly on a car, after ten years living in the damp uk weather a crimp will corrode and fail.
Adding heat shrink, especially adhesive lined is a good idea as it will add another level of sealing and give support. A good crimp however should grip the insulation of the wire providing strain relief.
If you're going to solder use solder bucket connectors which will have an additional strain relief on the connector body.
Finally copper work hardens i.e. it becomes hard and brittle as it is bent, moved, hit and subjected to vibrations. Heat cycling copper anneals it and it becomes more ductile, this one reason why over tightening screw clamps causes them to work loose, especially when multiple conductors are inserted.
Ultimately, use the correct wire size and connection combination.
T.E. Connectivity and other manufacturers/suppliers have tutorial videos for this on TH-cam. There is also documentation on their website.
I didn't intend to write that much but once I started it kind of flowed.
Hope this helps you and others understand what is happening and helps everyone produce high quality and more reliable work.
Nice to see a build with affordable parts!!!! Great!!! And well done!
Thanks Jeffery!
Gone are the day's when you could make these designs from old solid wood wardrobe doors unfortunately. It's the best material to use .
I'm sure you still could and it wouldn't make that much difference!! 😂
This is a voight Pipe. Much more elegant than a simple horn. See Tech Ingredients for making a better cabinet. ❤❤
👍
Cyburg Needle, the most widely built ML-TQWT in Germany and ideally suited for Markaudio drivers,, uses no damping material in the back part of the speaker, so you probably frustrated the workings of an ML-TQWT
A bit of a likeness. I'm amazed when listening to classical music the depth of sound from this build and thr fact its only 3" 7watt drivers
I know TH-cam has crazy copyright issues and videos of speakers dont sound the same as in person, but I still like to hear them.
Looks great btw!@!
Pretty sure in this video that the music throughout was actually from the build!!
Great built! But I have to notice this in not back load horn, horn requires a mouth not a sealed end, this is TQWT.
Look carefully, it's compact and it isn't sealed!! 😁
I found it! 😂
Then this is Mass load transmission line - Bass reflex in my category, produce deeper bass than normal BR box with better quality, the definition among horn, TQWT, TL are blur but I think they all share the same theory, I just build a cab that goes wayyyyy too deep down to 20Hz@-3dB in near field testing with 6.5” bass driver, maybe not usable but it really can shake！
I’m a fan of Markaudio driver too 👍
they look great
Thanks!!
Really liked your video and build. But if anyone working with me used a tablesaw as you did they would be written up. Safety first.
Thanks David, as you can tell, I'm no woodworker and my desk job doesn't usually involve sharp spinning objects!!
Built more than a few designs with FR drivers myself over a period of 15yrs or so - mostly Mark Audio, as far back as the original EL70 for CSS - and had a bit of cringe myself watching the bevel cutting without using a push stick.
@@fonkenful Still got the fingers!!! As you can tell, I'm no trained woodworker but, I hope you enjoy the builds!!
Great job, veneer is a nice touch.
Thanks, too damp and cold in my garage at this time of the year to paint so the wife let's me inside if I veneer😂😂
Bellissimo il monovia, una strada "contorta" anche se banale in apparenza. La bellezza della semplicita' per contenere costi produttivi e consumi di corrente al contatore.
👍
Que material é esse que você cobriu a caixa, onde posso comprar?
Listed in the video description. I believe you mean the stuffing? Its used in furniture making.
Learning good hints here! I will try to do!
👍
Hello,please which varnish and thinner is used?
Hi, I just use a polyurethene varnish with a little white spirit to thin it.
what are you treating the MDF with at the 6 min mark?
Hi Tim, its an MDF sealer i got from Screwfix. Sure you could get it from a hardware store if you ar US based.
Omg that's so good😯, I like the wood motif... Gd job👏
Thanks
Step baffle filter?
No, the Mark Audio driver is built so you don't really need it
Muy interesante no había visto nada igual muchas gracias por compartir tu trabajo
Hi, sorry I can't translate in order to reply
does that have reflection from the floor ? can u hear an echo ?
Not at normal listening volume.
You're really ought to grab a binaural mic and include recordings so we can get some idea of their character.
Beautiful build!
Hope to in the future
So how do they sound?
Hi, for such small drivers they really have a solid sound (depending on the types of music you listen to - these aren't the drivers if you are into heavy rock!!) currently building a different set with the same drivers. I then hope to make a video comparing them so will have a sound test for both.
This is a very well made *BASE REFLEX* speaker. It works on the *HELMHOLTZ RESONATOR* principle. But it is not a "horn" speaker in any way or it would resemble a Suzerphone with a very large flared trumpet-like output orifice. (They used to use "horn" speakers on mechanical phonographs, but to work well they need to be prohibitively large).
Cheers George, as the video says, I'm following the build on the Markaudio website.
It' certainly not a bass reflex and also not a horn but a Mass Loaded Tapered Quarter Wave Tube (ML-TQWT)
Top Work !
Thanks 👍
a pleasure to watch, sir
Thankyou!
Faltou demonstrar teste final do som, como ficou.
Hi, didn't have one. There is one on the latest Build!
That finish? How to get, where to get such nice veneer?
Listed in the description where I get the veneer. They may ship worldwide I guess!?
What liquid you use before veneering? Before applying glue 06:17
It's a MDF sealer.
@@DIY-AUDIO okey, hear about this first time. I use plywood allmost time.
I have one question more, did you ever use some filler before veneering, filling some deep scrats/ holes, i makes 3 test veneering yesterday by using car 2k filler, snicker wood filler. Test with car filler going wrong totally cause pva cant glue together with 2k fillers, test with wood filler(snicker) glued together, but the contact really weak/ pva glued on filler but when you try remove it, its come loose with filler. So the wood filler is shit too. Now im using router to cut out a bit larger holes and fill them with pice of mdf and a little smaller defects with pva and wood dust or something, its work better. Mybee i dont use right water based fillers but allmost what i found in estonian markets didnt work when you want to finnish speaker cabinets using veneer.
@@a-matics1831 only have very small amount to fill as try and cut accurately. Just normal wood glue Not 2 PAC car filler. No issues at all!
Real beauties _ if they sound like they look 😊😊
Thanks will have a sound test coming soon on a amp review with these speakers sometime in April
@@DIY-AUDIO loooking forward it
I would have gone with a satin finish but otherwise beautiful speakers
👍
Gorgeous
Thankyou
Interesting build - I have a pair of CH50s in the small build, I'm missing some depth I feel (I have Castle Harlechs which are a dual loaded 1/4 wave with a tweeter). The smaller cabs just miss a bit of bass. I have some 9 ply baltic birch that I could make a pair with, alternatively I'll make a practice guitar amp.
👍Working on another build with these drivers at the moment. Compact Mass Loaded quarter wave speakers. Should have on the channel in a couple of weeks
@@DIY-AUDIO I look forward to it!
Great job wonderful finish but why don't you pin all the joints as well as gluing?
Cheers Jon, never had an issue, a good quality glue and it isn't going anywhere!! . More likely to use pins though if I was butting all the joints but cutting and gluing all the joints at 45 degrees on mdf gives an incredibly strong joint with just the glue.
how can i calculate the type of cabinets?
There are free software calculators on line (WinISD for example) or like I did in this build, let someone else do it for you!!
@@DIY-AUDIO The winisd don't calculate horn loaded cabinetes. Could you recommend to me other software?
In the off state, you get a good house for the mouse)
I can imagine the surprise of the mouse at the moment the acoustics are turned on).
I'm just kidding, of course.
Great job.
🤔👍
Behind - on the terminals - nice looking screws. Infront - ugly with + head 🤔🤔Any spec. reason 4 that ?
That's what the MA chn-50 come supplied with!!
Nice build. I never really liked the woodworking side of speaker building but this is really fun to watch. If you dont mind me asking, in your opinion which is the best affordable 4 inch FR driver? I am currently building a Bluetooth stereo speaker and looking for a good 4 inch FR or coaxial speaker to use for the project.
Thanks, I prefer the finishing as it's what can make something individual. Basically though I don't have the patience to work out Crossovers hence the FR drivers. Personally the Markaudio Pluvia 7.2HD is great for the money once run in. But, depending on the money you have I'm sure there are better as I'm sure some would argue!! but I'm not made of money so all drivers I've used on my builds are between £10- £50.
@@DIY-AUDIO haha. I always say don’t have the patience for woodworking but it’s an important part of the build so I am really trying to get better at it.
Thanks for your recommendation. I am building it as a job site radio for my father and have never used FR drivers before but I must admit these sound much better than I expected. I’ll look into those drivers as they seem right within my budget.
@@alfaholic3 if it for a job site radio and its going to get battered and thrown around, I'd use cheaper drivers if I were you and design some cages to protect them. At least if they do get damaged it will be really cheap to replace them. I built a cheap boombox for my daughter (build is on the channel) and they are only about £13GBP each!!
@@DIY-AUDIO That’s awesome, I’ll have a look at the video.
@@DIY-AUDIO😊
Would've rather you seen you use the putty on the need to speaker on the terminals instead of the foam because the phone will run away and deteriorate the putty will stay there and keep vibration down better than the foam
Thanks for the tip. Never heard of using putty before. May look into it
"Timber Merchant" I've never heard that term before.
Well, you have now!! 😁
Plans at kjfaudio have this speaker at 15 feet tall (481cm).
😂Check the Markaudio one. Link is in the description!!
No measurements? How can we know they even work?
If you watched the video with sound on, you would of been listening to them.
@@DIY-AUDIO I didn't mean if there was no sound, I meant if the 'mass loaded horn' was working and tuned correctly lol 😂
Why do people glue both sides when it says on the bottle of PVA and similar wood glues to only glue one side ?
New one on me Earl but, I must admit I've never read the back of a bottle of PVA!!
Personally though with most of my builds being MDF, I'd rather have too much glue than too little as i prefer a really strong bond and am happy to wipe up the excess!!
Horn Speakers without a Horn Mouth? Seems a TQWT also without Resonator ...
Very close to tqwt
@@DIY-AUDIO But now is only a close chamber box
@@MisterBean64 no, it is ported at the bottom!!
@@DIY-AUDIO Aha: But ther is no Bas Reflex Resonator Port in it ...: th-cam.com/video/6q6OiiB02GU/w-d-xo.html
Do you have frequence respons diagrams?
Sell and send to Việt Nam...?
Hi, nice idea but postage would be extortionate!!
nice....! i like it..!👍👍
👍
It's sad they don't have 25mm marine plywood like we have here,
(very expensive there). To make your speakers.
É triste eles não terem compensado naval 25mm (muito caro lá). Para fazerem suas caixas de som.
Yes, plywood here is very expensive. Probably 4x cost of MDF and as the channel is just a hobby, I don't think the wife would appreciate me spending anymore🤣
@@DIY-AUDIO
MDF is preferable over plywood for speaker builds because it is much heavier and less resonant. And that veneer is just beautiful.
Fantastic job.
At least that's what I thought. I've just looked at the Plans and they recommend ply over MDF.. I always thought the weight and deadness of the MDF was an advantage
@@georgecomber everydays a school day apparently🤣. Plans say either mdf or ply to be honest though!!
Thanks
👍
Fantásticos! Cuanto me gustaría sentirlos...Quisiera pedirte un Favor...Las Medidas,
para poder hacerlo yo. Un saludo de ante mano..Barcelona España.
.
👍
Great...
👍
Если внутри всё заглушить то звук хуже стаёт. Пробовал на своих)
Haven't over done it as you see in the video. Sound is superbly crisp!!
소리까지 듣고싶네요
The music played throughout the whole video is actually theses speakers!!
Красивые деревяшки
Sorry, unable. To translate so, can't reply
Horn?
www.kjfaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/CHN50-Compact-ML-Horn.png
Закрытый ящик? А внутри как труба Войта
Small port on the bottom
@@DIY-AUDIO спасибо
Nice Projekt. But the glue and the Finger. Stümperhaft in german.
Dumb..thanks🤣🤣. and Why would that be, to do it with a stick would take forever!!
Очень красиво но совершенно бессмысленно. Раструб рупора диаметром 5 см.? Это не рупор, не tgwp, не фазоинвертор, не закрытый ящик. Откуда такой проект? В чем смысл такого оформления? А так красиво, да.
Sorry, unable to translate to reply
To much work for only one spraker 😮... I always build minimum 3way speakers...
👍
I DON'T LIKE MDF !!!!! Why not plywood ? As I see you have a router . So why you didn't make the swallows for the driver, binding posts and the internal baffle (making the baffle a little wider for better sealing and durability) before start gluing the panels. Also why you didn't leave one side panel un-glued for adjusting the staffing ? My experience teaches me not to involve with something I don't like. Quick crafting with a beautiful finish
Great for you!! Not all of us can afford ply. Here in UK it 3 x price of MDF and bare in mind these are only small speakers!!
And also, much easier to use a rabbeting bit after veneered as it give a much better finish.
😅😅TQWT is no horn.
Just building someone else's design (stating the obvious as it's clear in the video!!) 😂
This is just a bass reflex I don't see any horn about it at all
For the size, they sound especially great with classical music. Check the design on the website link. It's small but definately a small referral to a horn
Гдеееееееее тест звукааааааа? Пздц!
? Sorry unable to translate
Where is the analysis of the design based on which you decided to make this box? where are the response, phase, impedance, delay, offset curves and generally all their reasoning and design work? I'm sick of seeing carpenters invalidate an entire science... what you're showing us has nothing to do with a speaker. it's a box with a loudspeaker...
Blah blah blah. Read what the channel is about before making comments. There are some complete tools out there!!
@@DIY-AUDIO I've studied what this channel did... that's why I made the specific comment... with me you don't have to impress some ignorant subscribers who, whatever you do, open their mouths and throw whatever flattery they can. face it you have one of the oldest speaker designers and a teacher... of real speakers... not speaker boxes for the internet
😅😅😅Funier an der Rückseite hätte auch nicht den Ruin bedeutet!!👎🇩🇪
Doesnt make sense when translated to English
That's not a horn.
Did you actually read the plans and description?
@@DIY-AUDIO Yes. I see a strange mix between transmission line and bass reflex, but clearly not a horn.
For me it is a hifi speaker… sorry men
👍
You do nice work.
Thankyou!
Nice build, and I am sorry, but the finish is terrible. It really needs flattened by block sanding, then refinishing. There is way too much waviness, dirt, and just terrible looking roughness to the finish as is.
Fingers crossed you like the next build then!?
Great job, veneer is a nice touch.
Thankyou, really happy how it turned out myself
@@DIY-AUDIO 😀😀...//