I have a clarinet I have turned into a lamp and have been looking for a musical lamp shade to go with it....I'm very excited about trying to make my own...Thanks for sharing how to cover lampshades...I think I can do this....LOL Thanks!
Hi @Minihoney13 for some reason it won't let me reply to your comment. Hope you see this anyway! The paste will eventually go off. I've never let it go that far that it grows mould because I tend to use it up before then. But if you keep it sealed & refrigerated, only taking out for use and then back in fridge - it can last for 6-8weeks. Maybe more? It's pretty economical to make!
Thanks for sharing this! I have been wanting to cover a lampshade with a nautical chart. I'm wondering if I have to buy a new lampshade. What are you using to start with, please? Where can I get one like you use?
Hi Cindy, so sorry I didn't see a notification about your message. Gee 10 months ago...How did you go? Did you find a lampshade for your nautical maps? You remind me of one I made a while ago... if I can find a pic I'll post it here...
HI Janine, I've tried water based varnishes but I haven't been keen on the way they dry. (Sort of a milky effect sometimes) There is something about the way oil based lacquers soak into the paper like wood that really brings out the character of vintage material. Maybe you'll have better luck though? The other option I've been experimenting with at the moment is Bondcrete type of glues (like a construction quality PVA). Stay tuned!! ; )
I am making a lamp out of a non-working clarinet. I found free downloadable Star Wars music (this is for my nephew 😉) but the project is a real mess using 20# bond paper! My shade is a different size, too, so the paper is not coming out right. The shade has a tilt to it, and after 3 pages pasted on, there is a gap not large enough for another sheet. Can you possibly advise what to do to save the project?! Will regular weight copy paper work? And how do we make the sheets fit the shade? Thanks a heap!
Hi Kathie, I'm struggling to picture what you've got going on there! Is there any way you can email me some pictures so I can help? Also I'm not sure what 20# paper means. Is that thickness? Like GSM? Feel free to contact me via the email link on www.patturnstudio.com.au (I can't post my email here or I will be flooded with spam!) thanks : )
it's people like you that really piss me off because you spend your time blessing us all with your talents and creativity. jk but really thank you so much for sharing this. You are truly in tune with all things creative
Hi Rachel, love your tutorial - you've inspired me to cover two lampshades, and they look great, except .... I've just painted the first one, with Cabothane, and have two issues. The paper has become quite yellowed. It was old paper anyway (100+ years), but is much yellower than it was. Any way to avoid this? The other issue, which is more of a problem, is that some parts of the paper haven't absorbed the paint at all. I'm assuming this is because I was sloppy and left glue to dry on it. Any ideas before I try to paint my second shade? Many thanks, Anna
Hi Anna Maree, sorry I didn't reply sooner - I didn't get a notification about your comment (?!). Anyway yes, I actually really like the yellow effect. But usually if you are using a new and fresh tin of Cabothane it's hardly yellow at all. Seems the yellow starts to creep in the older the tin gets? I have also found that the leftover paste can give you an uneven finish. My solution was to go all or nothing (depending on the paper type), so I would 1) make sure I give a light coating of the paste to the whole shade, but mix the paste in a separate bowl 50/50 with water. or 2) be really really careful not to get paste on the exterior shade of all (inner seams won't matter) and if you do, have a damp cloth handy to wipe most of it away as you go. Hope that makes sense?? Feel free to contact me direct via the patturn website if you have specific questions!
Hi Marilyn, I don't have a lot of experience with vellum papers. There are different types but the one I tried to use was a kind of semi-translucent vellum which would be used for drafting. What I found was it didn't seem to absorb the paste like normal paper, it buckled and went weird! I guess it's got a finish on it which has a kind of water resistance (makes sense if it's for drafting plans and has to be handled a lot). So I would definitely recommend "regular" paper. For instance, with house plans I avoid vellum by making copies onto standard copy paper and it works brilliantly. Soaks up the paste and is really easy to fold around into the seams. The same goes for music notes if you don't want to use the vintage pages because they are too precious. I also source digital copies of music for clients and print onto standard copy paper with an antique colour. Works really well! But generally speaking I've made shades with a wide range of vintage papers from old newspapers to music notes and all sorts of sewing pattern papers and they have all worked without a hitch. I hope this helps you? Feel free to message or email via www.patturnstudio.com.au if you have any more questions : )
Hey everyone! Letting you know I've published a new tutorial using vintage maps to cover lampshades, check it out! th-cam.com/video/UwgLBNvS0lQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi Peggy, if it's a fabric only shade (no heat resistant plastic layer, just fabric and wire) then I wouldn't recommend it. Have experimented myself and haven't had great results! The shades you really want have the hard plastic layer + some type of light fabric on the outer layer, like linen, cotton or even synthetics like Satin are all good : ) Good luck!
I have a clarinet I have turned into a lamp and have been looking for a musical lamp shade to go with it....I'm very excited about trying to make my own...Thanks for sharing how to cover lampshades...I think I can do this....LOL Thanks!
Hi Patturn: Why you don't have any videos anymore, I really like your this technique , could you make more videos .
Thank you for sharing the technique. The lampshade is beautiful.
thank you Anne : )
I love your ideas and how totally chilled you are :0)
LOL - yes, I'm so chilled it takes me 7 months to say thank you ; )
@@PatturnstudioAu haha no worries. Its mick from scotland. (The lampshade lab). My notifications are sporadic on here too.
@@scotscub76 LOL - Hello Mick. Loving your work!!
Hi @Minihoney13 for some reason it won't let me reply to your comment. Hope you see this anyway! The paste will eventually go off. I've never let it go that far that it grows mould because I tend to use it up before then. But if you keep it sealed & refrigerated, only taking out for use and then back in fridge - it can last for 6-8weeks. Maybe more? It's pretty economical to make!
Thanks for sharing this! I have been wanting to cover a lampshade with a nautical chart. I'm wondering if I have to buy a new lampshade. What are you using to start with, please? Where can I get one like you use?
Hi Cindy, so sorry I didn't see a notification about your message. Gee 10 months ago...How did you go? Did you find a lampshade for your nautical maps? You remind me of one I made a while ago... if I can find a pic I'll post it here...
Hi again, I don't know if this link will work but I'll give it a try! instagram.com/p/CHRMizHj5Db/
this is very helpful, thank you. could i use a water based varnish?
HI Janine, I've tried water based varnishes but I haven't been keen on the way they dry. (Sort of a milky effect sometimes) There is something about the way oil based lacquers soak into the paper like wood that really brings out the character of vintage material. Maybe you'll have better luck though? The other option I've been experimenting with at the moment is Bondcrete type of glues (like a construction quality PVA). Stay tuned!! ; )
Love it!
This is ace. Thank you!
Erin Lewis-Fitzgerald Thanks : ) feel free to share with who ever you think might like it!
I am making a lamp out of a non-working clarinet. I found free downloadable Star Wars music (this is for my nephew 😉) but the project is a real mess using 20# bond paper! My shade is a different size, too, so the paper is not coming out right. The shade has a tilt to it, and after 3 pages pasted on, there is a gap not large enough for another sheet. Can you possibly advise what to do to save the project?! Will regular weight copy paper work? And how do we make the sheets fit the shade? Thanks a heap!
Hi Kathie, I'm struggling to picture what you've got going on there! Is there any way you can email me some pictures so I can help? Also I'm not sure what 20# paper means. Is that thickness? Like GSM? Feel free to contact me via the email link on www.patturnstudio.com.au (I can't post my email here or I will be flooded with spam!) thanks : )
it's people like you that really piss me off because you spend your time blessing us all with your talents and creativity. jk but really thank you so much for sharing this. You are truly in tune with all things creative
Dee Ramsey - you had me worried for a second there! 😬 But thank you so much.
You had me going there for a second Dee! Haha. Thanks so much : )
Hi, does the flour and water go mouldy at all?
Hi Rachel, love your tutorial - you've inspired me to cover two lampshades, and they look great, except ....
I've just painted the first one, with Cabothane, and have two issues. The paper has become quite yellowed. It was old paper anyway (100+ years), but is much yellower than it was. Any way to avoid this?
The other issue, which is more of a problem, is that some parts of the paper haven't absorbed the paint at all. I'm assuming this is because I was sloppy and left glue to dry on it. Any ideas before I try to paint my second shade?
Many thanks, Anna
Hi Anna Maree, sorry I didn't reply sooner - I didn't get a notification about your comment (?!).
Anyway yes, I actually really like the yellow effect. But usually if you are using a new and fresh tin of Cabothane it's hardly yellow at all. Seems the yellow starts to creep in the older the tin gets?
I have also found that the leftover paste can give you an uneven finish. My solution was to go all or nothing (depending on the paper type), so I would 1) make sure I give a light coating of the paste to the whole shade, but mix the paste in a separate bowl 50/50 with water. or 2) be really really careful not to get paste on the exterior shade of all (inner seams won't matter) and if you do, have a damp cloth handy to wipe most of it away as you go. Hope that makes sense?? Feel free to contact me direct via the patturn website if you have specific questions!
I like your video and I just don't know what lacquering is, could you let me know what you use for lacquering thanks
Hi Mei, lacquer is another word for varnish or sealer. We have also started using Bondcrete as a combined glue/sealer with great results : )
@@PatturnstudioAu thanks so much.
This is so very professional and helpful - do you take classes??
Thanks Marteen : ) I am planning to hold workshops in 2015, please follow Patturn on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter for details as they come to light!
Does it matter what kind of paper you use? Vellum paper vs. regular paper?
Hi Marilyn, I don't have a lot of experience with vellum papers. There are different types but the one I tried to use was a kind of semi-translucent vellum which would be used for drafting. What I found was it didn't seem to absorb the paste like normal paper, it buckled and went weird! I guess it's got a finish on it which has a kind of water resistance (makes sense if it's for drafting plans and has to be handled a lot).
So I would definitely recommend "regular" paper. For instance, with house plans I avoid vellum by making copies onto standard copy paper and it works brilliantly. Soaks up the paste and is really easy to fold around into the seams. The same goes for music notes if you don't want to use the vintage pages because they are too precious. I also source digital copies of music for clients and print onto standard copy paper with an antique colour. Works really well!
But generally speaking I've made shades with a wide range of vintage papers from old newspapers to music notes and all sorts of sewing pattern papers and they have all worked without a hitch.
I hope this helps you? Feel free to message or email via www.patturnstudio.com.au if you have any more questions : )
Thank you so much this helps a whole lot!!
Fantastic! Would love to see the results when you're done? Feel free to post on the Patturn Facebook page if you like : )
What type of lacquer was is it. Jim
james Mayo - I use an oil based Cabothane
Hey everyone! Letting you know I've published a new tutorial using vintage maps to cover lampshades, check it out! th-cam.com/video/UwgLBNvS0lQ/w-d-xo.html
Can you do it on a shade that has material?
Hi Peggy, if it's a fabric only shade (no heat resistant plastic layer, just fabric and wire) then I wouldn't recommend it. Have experimented myself and haven't had great results! The shades you really want have the hard plastic layer + some type of light fabric on the outer layer, like linen, cotton or even synthetics like Satin are all good : ) Good luck!
Wouldn't Mod-Podge be an easier sealer?
Hi. That product isn't really my thing... but you go for it if it works for you! I prefer my homemade paste + lacquer : )
Oh Rachel, please keep smiling, you look beautiful.
Yes,Loved your tutorial :P
thanks so much! : )
We call "music notes" Sheet Music in the USA.
Hi Hixie, that's a good tip. We also call it sheet music here in Oz... I just forgot to add in that tag so I will do that now. Thanks so much : )