I am sure someone has told you this before but man you would make a great teacher at one of those bike mechanic schools. I even picked up a little Yamaha 80 that doesn't run and been sitting for over 2 years that I am confident that with your videos I will get it up and running. My plans is to give it to a little boy who wants a bike bad that I know but his mother and dad can't afford to get him one. So thanks for giving me that confidence. Stay safe
Tankerman, you are da' man!!! If you end up doing that, have that little boy come on over with you and get his hands dirty. When I was little, I was like that little boy, wanted one so bad, but we had no money to get one, I would follow the older guys around and tinker with them. I would have loved to have someone show me the ropes and let me work on a bike that someday might become mine. You could watch the tutorials together, and tear into that sucker!! Good job buddy!!
Thank you for putting out the stator and regulator videos. I broke down on a Saturday evening in Dinosaur, Colorado. Motorcycle shops were closed. I used your videos to diagnose that I had a bad battery and that was it.
Ah electrics, bane of my existence. Thanks for walking us through them. Looking foward to the next one. I have a bit of a lag in my indicators on my dirt bike and suspect the regulator
Cool 😎 outro! Very good information in this video, always good to troubleshoot before you start buying new parts without knowing what the issue is. *T4S*
HA! my KLR is missing all three of the rear fender pieces. I don't even need to take my seat off to get to the regulator... wait, that's not so good. It's just ziptied to the frame for now Yeah, all the wires are in the open and vulnerable in the back... I'm working on it ;-) Great video man
Another fine video! Thank you so much for sharing! I first check whether my 2009 KLR was charging...it's not! No increase in voltage when I run it. So, I checked the stator...checked out good on Ohms and is putting out about 15 volts on all three sides. So, I suspect the regulator is at fault. Would you agree?
If all 3 of the yellow wires reads 0. Then try the test on a different multimeter. I had the free one from harbor freight and that's what happened. Just bought a newer better one and now they read fine!! Just my little public service announcement
Cheers for the helpful video. Trying to learn more about alternator/stator/battery relationships to diagnose my own 2016 klr650 issues. I thought I might share the puzzle here in the comments. Bike battery at around 12.6V after a full 24hr recharge. When the key is turned “on” the voltage drops to 0.4. It cannot even engage the neutral light, let alone the starter. With my current, caveman understanding: I need a new battery - but a new battery would be wasted if the regulator were busted from a history of running at a low voltage (3rd battery in 4 years - likely?). A new regulator wouldn’t go far if the stator is faulty. To test the three phases I would need to run the engine, for which I need power. Which either requires a new battery or an external power supply(?). Tossing up whether to replace it all and not eat for a week, or piece by piece and run the risk of compromising each units lifespan. Trying to learn more about all of it, so the video is really appreciated. Nice one!
That's a very big drop in voltage bud. Could be a short.... So, this is what I would start with .... First, check to make sure you don't have a short in the positive side of your circuitry. That means, you take a test light, put the negative (black)clip on the positive post of the battery with the wires disconnected from the positive battery post (except the test light). Keep the negative battery post connected with it's normal wires. Now, touch the tip of the test light to the positive battery wires (which are disconnected from the battery) and see if it lights up. If it does, that means you have a short to ground somewhere which you need to check out further. If the light does not light up, then you likely don't have a substantial short to worry about initially. Then, use a pair of jumper cables, and your girlfriends car.... and jumper to the battery on your bike. Positive cable goes positive on your bike, and the positive car battery, the negative cable on negatives. Try to start the bike, once it starts, then remove the jumper cables and see if it will still run. Measure the voltage across the battery, and make sure it's below 14.3, and above 12.0 or so..... Report back, and we can help you problem solve from there bud......
@@MrDuhfactor I typed a reply before but I must not have sent. Thank you so much for such a comprehensive suggestion! I will check for a short and check running voltage if I can jump start it. This is appreciated.
I finally checked the positive circuit and attempted the jump start. The I used the continuity setting on the multimeter to check for shorts - no beep (the meter did read 844 without a defined unit, which didn’t seem to correspond to specifically tested resistance, which came up at 1.2*100 megaohms, so that’s just confused me more since the manual for the meter says it will either read “0 or a small number” when testing continuity. But i guess I’m getting ahead of myself there...). This was with disconnected battery and bike+ve->meterCOM:meterVOhmHz->bike-ve connection. When I attempted to jump start the bike, the lights all turned on when i turned the key but the bike would not start when pressing the ignition; just weak stutters. This was the first cold start attempt in a few months, full choke at 15C/59F temperature. I used a healthy 900A jump starter. Since I’m trying learn as much as possible, I’ll throw in my amateur guess: if it’s not a short, can’t be jumped and the bike is otherwise fully serviced, does that then mean that something in the starter is not getting enough power? Like maybe worn out wiring leading to the spark plug or whatever capacitor that may come before it?
I've got a no charging problem on my KLR. I did the resistance test like you showed and I got 2.2ohms between the coils, but when I do the AC volt test I get pretty much nothing like 0.2v. I'm using one of those little red harbor freight multimiters set to 200 ACV. Any idea what's going on or anything I'm doing wrong?
It's late now but I had the same issue. Turns out it was the fault of the cheap multimeter from harbor, the free sucks . Bought a new one and now it reads fine
This video is great! I have a question for you about a KLX650. My 1996 KLX650 has a stator, voltage regulator/rectifier, but no battery. How can I test the voltage regulator in this case? My issue is that my headlight gets dim when the bike is revved past idle. Thanks!
well buddy, if you can research the wires that come out of your rectifier and go to your headlight, you can simply check the voltage on the wired to your headlight at idle, then revved up. if your voltage goes down instead of stays the same, you need to check to see if your stator is doing it, or your rectifier. good luck!
Great vid, but my stator only has two wires coming out, I can buzz across with the multimeter and I get a buzz so that means no break and all ok right, Thanks 👍
idk if its a thing with stators but on three phase motors we also check continuity from each phase to ground because a burnt motor will sometimes still show continuity threw each phase but if u get continuity to ground then it has a dead short and has burned up. so maybe check the ohms from each phase to ground there should be no connections if there is u got a problem.
Mr. D. Couple questions. 1. Will a brand new stator typically show the same voltage across all the phases? 2. Even though a phase is still producing voltage doesn't it still raise concern if it is weaker or lower than the rest? Thanks a lot. Iv seen every one of you vids and I have learned a ton. The project vids are the best!
Well, it depends on the quality of the manufacture. Peggy's coils on each phase of her stator are within .2 volts, but a lot of bikes have had varied voltage when I check them, both old stators and new ones. I'm sure there's someone out there that rebuilds them or something that would know why/ how often that happens. I've never had problems as long as each phase has equal to or higher voltage than the battery at typical riding RPM's. Most of the excess voltage gets bled off in the regulator anyway, so unless one is maxing out the electrical draw on their bike with lights, heated grips, heated gear, etc, chances are it doesn't matter that much.
I am wondering if there is much of a selection of superior, after-market rectifier-regulators for the KLR and DR650 ... Obviously, I would prefer a well filtered ripple, rather than a harsh square rms output ... It is possible to BUILD a superior RCL filtered output, using higher spec components. ... Hmmm ....
You could build one, but individual components are big and may not be as easy to mount, etc. You can do it!! There are a bunch of aftermarket regulators that are high quality that people will convert to. I'm thinking about doing a conversion regulator on Peggy just to try it out.
MrDuhfactor Well ... You may know that a nice, clean, constant 12Volt supply is highly desirable, especially if you are directly powering personal electronics. ... Now ... Rectifiers come is two varieties ... HALF WAVE and FULL WAVE ... You DEFINITELY want a FULL wave rectifier (A FOUR diode bridge rectifier) ... Then ... You want to smooth that choppy output as much as possible, using as many as THREE stages of RCL filter networks (each one acts like a shock-absorber and smoothes the DC RIPPLE ... FINALLY, Some USB and 12Volt OUTLETS *MAY* employ separate filters of their own, AT THE OUTLET. ... There are many ways to skin this cat BUT we DO want super-clean power, from the stator-output and onward, if we can do that. ... Filter circuit diagrams are VERY easy to fabricate and it may just be BEST to FILTER THE OUTPUT FROM THE STOCK RECTIFIER ... That would entail 3 resistors and 3 capacitors and 3 inductor coils , as well as a high quality ZENER DIODE ... There are RC filters, as well, which do NOT employ coils but only use Resistors and Caps.
Hi again, you recently gave me some advice on one of your other videos regarding my potentially bad stator. Strangely, I'm still getting no AC reading from the new stator with the bike running, and no charge to the battery. Hm, so now I think it may be a problem in the connection between the stator and the regulator, since the connection that I'm testing is at the regulator. Previous owner replaced regulator about two years ago. I'm wondering what might cause readings indicating a dead stator on two separate good stators. The previous stator didn't show any damage. Sorry if this is the wrong way to inquire about this but if you have any further advice I'd be grateful. You're by far the best resource I've found on the specific issue of Gen 1 KLR electrical woes and my brain hurts from looking for answers :) Reading my good old Clymer manual now.
Oh man.... so sorry.....It is rare, but it could even be a bad flywheel (rarely, the magnets go south) But, lets start from the beginning, and work our way through this. First of all, does the bike start, and run?
MrDuhfactor. Ok great, thanks! Yes, starts and runs no problem, I just have to manually charge the battery after a few starts, and it will also slowly die as I'm riding. New battery though, since I originally just thought I had a bad battery and bought a new one. As for the flywheel, not sure if this matters regarding the magnets, but when I attached the new stator I felt the magnets grab onto it when putting the casing back on. I almost hope it's a bad part instead of a wiring issue.
The magnets on the flywheel should have enough strength to pull the cover on when you put things back together, so that may be ok. So, next question, are you checking the running voltage (three yellow wires) with the plug NOT attached to the regulator? And, your checking one yellow wire at a time, with the red voltmeter probe, and the black probe on a good ground? (like battery negative)
MrDuhfactor The tests that I have done are: ohm test between all yellow wires with bike off, tested good. Test between ground wire (negative probe) and yellow wires (positive probe) with bike running. Getting either 0.00v AC or .3 or .4, so minimal. Not the 23 or so that you got in your test in the video. Battery tests at 12.7 or 12.9 fully charged and when connected to the bike. Shows no increase when bike starts, but drops to 12.3 or lower, down to 11.5., no change when revved up whatsoever. The connector at the regulator, when unplugged and tested, seems to be showing a lack of voltage. I'm going to run new tests tomorrow!
Ok, be sure to test the stator with the stator/regulator connection unplugged. If the stator is plugged into the regulator, and you test the stator like that, a bad or grounded regulator could skew your results as voltage gets shunted to ground. Does that make sense? If you can take a video on your phone of you testing it, and send to me by e-mail, that would be great. Mister duh factor at gee mail dot com.
Also my 2008 has the regulator mounted vertically on the right side down behind the radiator. It is completely obscured by the tank which has to come off.
Yes, the voltage running should never get lower than battery voltage alone (engine off), even at idle. It should be closer to 13+ volts. Stators short out from repetitive heat/cool cycles.
Good point buddy. It's amazing how much variation there can be between coils. One pod could have one less turn than the others, making the voltage vary. As long as there's not shorts, no open wires (broken wire in the winding) and it's putting out voltage, your usually safe. Variation in voltage is quite common, but it is a great suggestion to know what the output specs are for that stator and compare, even for peace of mind.
The starter "dragging" or being slow has to do with either the health of the battery, the starter itself, or the wiring to the starter and ground. If you have one wire that is not going above battery voltage when revving the motor, but the other two wires do, it just means that your stator is beginning to get weak, but you still should have enough voltage and current to keep the battery at a full charge... does that make sense?
@@MrDuhfactor hey i appreciate you responding! i pulled the starter off the bike and took it to a repair man to have it tested. what i ran into was after the doohickey fix when i put it all back together and went to start it and it was just a click and nothing. well i think the starter solenoid stuck in the engaged position. because i soon lost the battery and the cables were warm. so i figured the battery was dead and i needed to jump it. when i hooked up the jumper cables the starter came on and started cranking but, it didnt sound right. it sounded like an air power ratchet when it would crank. i checked the solenoid by my shop manual and it checks out?
NT8.... curious, next time your digging into the inner workings of Barbie, can you check for me whether or not her rectifier has the three yellow stator wires? I'm finding Italian bikes often have them, and just want to expand my information. Thanks man!
Should still have a separate rectifier/regulator somewhere bro... found LaFawnduh's down by a big relay hidden under her skirt.... no need to take her apart my man, just store it in the back of your mind for next time she blows an oil leak and you strip her down :(
Its hard to explaine here, so much to write, the manual has a good proceedure for static testing while the engine is not running. If your bike wont start because it doesnt have spark, thennit could be either the plug, coil (unlikely), or the pickup, which is part of the stator.
Hello, the voltage regulator was damaged as a result of this ECU as well. After replacing the parts and the motorcycle foot relay, the machine works perfectly
I like that you know the meter will blow up at 7000V. Hah! You may want to hit any terminals you disturb with some dielectric grease. Especially if he is going to be riding in weather.
Good point buddy.... That meter was rated for 1k V DC, and I thought if I went above that, it would just pop the fuse.... she held on with a variac controlled transformer up to 7K, then went up in smoke.... Didn't have a fuse go surprisingly, just went down to Harbor Freight and bought another meter.... Wish I had that on video :)
Follow them down to a connector and unplug them. If there is no plug, use the pointed end of the voltmeter lead to pierce the wire sheathing you are testing.
I got the spark turns out you should never buy cheap ignition switches from eBay. Turns out it was shorting some cables out making it not get the spark
@@dbdb4274 the cause of no spark is usually one of the following; 1) Bad spark plug, 2) bad coil wire, 3) bad or poorly grounded coil, 4) bad pickup by stator, 5) bad CDI, 6) faulty stop switch, and a few other possibilities. The stator putting out AC power is necessary for powring the spark, but when it goes bad, its usually just one leg, and should still put out enough power to send spark.
@@MrDuhfactor well its a klx650.. I have power from the red wire from the stator it lights up my test light I'm not sure if that's the main stator wire.. And i have power to the stator.. And from the ignition coil spark plug side has no power but the wire on the coil to the cdi has no power at all im at it the last two days
@@dbdb4274 you will need a wiring diagram to help you figure out which wire your testing, where it comes from, and where its going. The coil wires are tough to test accurately, but if you can find a wiring diagram, I can try to help you out.
Great video! , I was curious if you would know why neutral would be incredibly difficult to find on a 2007 KTM 450EXC, I recently bought the bike and It was the only issue it had upon purchase but I got an awesome deal otherwise, but is incredibly difficult to find even when the bike is off and I'm off the bike trying to find it by hand
@@MrDuhfactor thank you so much, i appreciate the reply. Having a electrical draw when my 08 klr is running and sitting i believe so i’m thinking my rectifier is no longer working
@@erickgarcia6906 Having an electrical draw while running is expected, but not while sitting. Once the key is turned off, there should be no electrical draw from the battery under normal conditions. if you have a draw while the key is off, then there is likely a short somewhere in the system. Does that make sense?
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
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I am sure someone has told you this before but man you would make a great teacher at one of those bike mechanic schools. I even picked up a little Yamaha 80 that doesn't run and been sitting for over 2 years that I am confident that with your videos I will get it up and running. My plans is to give it to a little boy who wants a bike bad that I know but his mother and dad can't afford to get him one. So thanks for giving me that confidence. Stay safe
Tankerman, you are da' man!!! If you end up doing that, have that little boy come on over with you and get his hands dirty. When I was little, I was like that little boy, wanted one so bad, but we had no money to get one, I would follow the older guys around and tinker with them. I would have loved to have someone show me the ropes and let me work on a bike that someday might become mine. You could watch the tutorials together, and tear into that sucker!! Good job buddy!!
Thank you for putting out the stator and regulator videos. I broke down on a Saturday evening in Dinosaur, Colorado. Motorcycle shops were closed. I used your videos to diagnose that I had a bad battery and that was it.
Sweet buddy.... good job!
I know I am coming in super late on this one but thank you! amazing video and I learned more about my volt meter.
I did this test on my Husaberg last year, thats how i found out the stator was kaputt. Great tutorial!
Good Job Samcro! Glad ya got her fixed!!
You make it look easy and I know its not hard to do thanks for the tips, keep them comming
You becha buddy !!! I've screwed up enough to learn the hard way to do things too :)
great tutorial, I've always wanted to learn how to use the voltmeter correctly
It is much easier than people think, and if I can do it, anyone can, that's for sure. More to come with the old volt meter.
Really helpful video, thanks!
Ah electrics, bane of my existence. Thanks for walking us through them. Looking foward to the next one. I have a bit of a lag in my indicators on my dirt bike and suspect the regulator
That's coming up next! Actually... I guess it's already out :)
Your videos have helped so much! Thank you for taking the time out of your day to make them.
Joshua Hautala You becha buddy :)
This series is great! Thanks for taking the time!
Finally a video that tells me whats wrong. Now I have to replace the stator got damit
So easy even I can do it! Thanks MrDuhfactor for teaching us!
Yes, you certainly can buddy!
Nice tutorial, nice front tire too
Cool 😎 outro! Very good information in this video, always good to troubleshoot before you start buying new parts without knowing what the issue is. *T4S*
Thanks buddy, halfthrottle made the outro for me, he's a whiz with that stuff....
Brilliant demo and very well explained! Thanks so very much indeed. I’ve subscribed 🌅👌
This is a great series of videos! Thanks a ton for doing this.
Keep up the good work!
Hey buddy!!! You becha! Got a string of them to put up!
HA! my KLR is missing all three of the rear fender pieces. I don't even need to take my seat off to get to the regulator... wait, that's not so good. It's just ziptied to the frame for now Yeah, all the wires are in the open and vulnerable in the back... I'm working on it ;-)
Great video man
Good Job buddy!! Your diggin' in!!
I think I posted something like this in one of your old videos, "Where's the fun in an easy project?"
Another fine video! Thank you so much for sharing! I first check whether my 2009 KLR was charging...it's not! No increase in voltage when I run it. So, I checked the stator...checked out good on Ohms and is putting out about 15 volts on all three sides. So, I suspect the regulator is at fault. Would you agree?
If all 3 of the yellow wires reads 0. Then try the test on a different multimeter. I had the free one from harbor freight and that's what happened. Just bought a newer better one and now they read fine!! Just my little public service announcement
Great point buddy..
+MrDuhfactor Mr. D. you did it once again. Making something easy that I seem to make difficult. Thanks for another awesome video.
My friend, I have done this the hard way so many times, and had enough break downs to be forced into finding the easier way to do things.
As always, awesome information. Love the new outro too!
Thanks buddy! halfthrottle made the outro.... pretty cool huh!
Cheers for the helpful video.
Trying to learn more about alternator/stator/battery relationships to diagnose my own 2016 klr650 issues. I thought I might share the puzzle here in the comments.
Bike battery at around 12.6V after a full 24hr recharge. When the key is turned “on” the voltage drops to 0.4. It cannot even engage the neutral light, let alone the starter.
With my current, caveman understanding: I need a new battery - but a new battery would be wasted if the regulator were busted from a history of running at a low voltage (3rd battery in 4 years - likely?). A new regulator wouldn’t go far if the stator is faulty. To test the three phases I would need to run the engine, for which I need power. Which either requires a new battery or an external power supply(?).
Tossing up whether to replace it all and not eat for a week, or piece by piece and run the risk of compromising each units lifespan.
Trying to learn more about all of it, so the video is really appreciated. Nice one!
That's a very big drop in voltage bud. Could be a short.... So, this is what I would start with .... First, check to make sure you don't have a short in the positive side of your circuitry. That means, you take a test light, put the negative (black)clip on the positive post of the battery with the wires disconnected from the positive battery post (except the test light). Keep the negative battery post connected with it's normal wires. Now, touch the tip of the test light to the positive battery wires (which are disconnected from the battery) and see if it lights up. If it does, that means you have a short to ground somewhere which you need to check out further. If the light does not light up, then you likely don't have a substantial short to worry about initially. Then, use a pair of jumper cables, and your girlfriends car.... and jumper to the battery on your bike. Positive cable goes positive on your bike, and the positive car battery, the negative cable on negatives. Try to start the bike, once it starts, then remove the jumper cables and see if it will still run. Measure the voltage across the battery, and make sure it's below 14.3, and above 12.0 or so..... Report back, and we can help you problem solve from there bud......
@@MrDuhfactor I typed a reply before but I must not have sent.
Thank you so much for such a comprehensive suggestion! I will check for a short and check running voltage if I can jump start it. This is appreciated.
I finally checked the positive circuit and attempted the jump start.
The I used the continuity setting on the multimeter to check for shorts - no beep (the meter did read 844 without a defined unit, which didn’t seem to correspond to specifically tested resistance, which came up at 1.2*100 megaohms, so that’s just confused me more since the manual for the meter says it will either read “0 or a small number” when testing continuity. But i guess I’m getting ahead of myself there...). This was with disconnected battery and bike+ve->meterCOM:meterVOhmHz->bike-ve connection.
When I attempted to jump start the bike, the lights all turned on when i turned the key but the bike would not start when pressing the ignition; just weak stutters. This was the first cold start attempt in a few months, full choke at 15C/59F temperature. I used a healthy 900A jump starter.
Since I’m trying learn as much as possible, I’ll throw in my amateur guess: if it’s not a short, can’t be jumped and the bike is otherwise fully serviced, does that then mean that something in the starter is not getting enough power? Like maybe worn out wiring leading to the spark plug or whatever capacitor that may come before it?
I've got a no charging problem on my KLR. I did the resistance test like you showed and I got 2.2ohms between the coils, but when I do the AC volt test I get pretty much nothing like 0.2v. I'm using one of those little red harbor freight multimiters set to 200 ACV. Any idea what's going on or anything I'm doing wrong?
same! did you figure it out?
It's late now but I had the same issue. Turns out it was the fault of the cheap multimeter from harbor, the free sucks . Bought a new one and now it reads fine
what's with those holes in the plastic cover? what are they used for?
This video is great! I have a question for you about a KLX650. My 1996 KLX650 has a stator, voltage regulator/rectifier, but no battery. How can I test the voltage regulator in this case? My issue is that my headlight gets dim when the bike is revved past idle. Thanks!
well buddy, if you can research the wires that come out of your rectifier and go to your headlight, you can simply check the voltage on the wired to your headlight at idle, then revved up. if your voltage goes down instead of stays the same, you need to check to see if your stator is doing it, or your rectifier. good luck!
Great vid, but my stator only has two wires coming out, I can buzz across with the multimeter and I get a buzz so that means no break and all ok right, Thanks 👍
I had to do this on my old 82 KZ750 . I found a bad coil . Good info !
Way to go Muzzle Mike! it's a relief to finally find out where the problem is right??? Sometimes these things can drive one nuts!!
idk if its a thing with stators but on three phase motors we also check continuity from each phase to ground because a burnt motor will sometimes still show continuity threw each phase but if u get continuity to ground then it has a dead short and has burned up. so maybe check the ohms from each phase to ground there should be no connections if there is u got a problem.
Yes, very good point, I did that before shooting the video to check it, then forgot while shooting the video :( Excellent suggestion my man.
Sensei, is there any part of your builds/restorations that you could say is your least favorite thing to troubleshoot?
Transmissions..... hands down :) You?
Haha, I'm so far from dipping my toes into many of the things you do, I don't believe I have the knowledge to pick my least favorite thing. :-)
Mr. D. Couple questions. 1. Will a brand new stator typically show the same voltage across all the phases? 2. Even though a phase is still producing voltage doesn't it still raise concern if it is weaker or lower than the rest? Thanks a lot. Iv seen every one of you vids and I have learned a ton. The project vids are the best!
Well, it depends on the quality of the manufacture. Peggy's coils on each phase of her stator are within .2 volts, but a lot of bikes have had varied voltage when I check them, both old stators and new ones. I'm sure there's someone out there that rebuilds them or something that would know why/ how often that happens. I've never had problems as long as each phase has equal to or higher voltage than the battery at typical riding RPM's. Most of the excess voltage gets bled off in the regulator anyway, so unless one is maxing out the electrical draw on their bike with lights, heated grips, heated gear, etc, chances are it doesn't matter that much.
By the way, thanks for watching bud, I love to hear peoples questions and comments!
Great video! Can I assume this is the same on a Gen 2 KLR? Thank you
Yes, I believe so....
@@MrDuhfactor except I can't see regulator under the seat! 2010 gen II
Do you perform this check with key in on or off position?
Great tip MrD
Thanks buddy!!
I am wondering if there is much of a selection of superior, after-market rectifier-regulators for the KLR and DR650 ... Obviously, I would prefer a well filtered ripple, rather than a harsh square rms output ... It is possible to BUILD a superior RCL filtered output, using higher spec components. ... Hmmm ....
You could build one, but individual components are big and may not be as easy to mount, etc. You can do it!! There are a bunch of aftermarket regulators that are high quality that people will convert to. I'm thinking about doing a conversion regulator on Peggy just to try it out.
MrDuhfactor Well ... You may know that a nice, clean, constant 12Volt supply is highly desirable, especially if you are directly powering personal electronics. ... Now ... Rectifiers come is two varieties ... HALF WAVE and FULL WAVE ... You DEFINITELY want a FULL wave rectifier (A FOUR diode bridge rectifier) ... Then ... You want to smooth that choppy output as much as possible, using as many as THREE stages of RCL filter networks (each one acts like a shock-absorber and smoothes the DC RIPPLE ... FINALLY, Some USB and 12Volt OUTLETS *MAY* employ separate filters of their own, AT THE OUTLET. ... There are many ways to skin this cat BUT we DO want super-clean power, from the stator-output and onward, if we can do that. ... Filter circuit diagrams are VERY easy to fabricate and it may just be BEST to FILTER THE OUTPUT FROM THE STOCK RECTIFIER ... That would entail 3 resistors and 3 capacitors and 3 inductor coils , as well as a high quality ZENER DIODE ... There are RC filters, as well, which do NOT employ coils but only use Resistors and Caps.
Hi again, you recently gave me some advice on one of your other videos regarding my potentially bad stator. Strangely, I'm still getting no AC reading from the new stator with the bike running, and no charge to the battery. Hm, so now I think it may be a problem in the connection between the stator and the regulator, since the connection that I'm testing is at the regulator. Previous owner replaced regulator about two years ago. I'm wondering what might cause readings indicating a dead stator on two separate good stators. The previous stator didn't show any damage. Sorry if this is the wrong way to inquire about this but if you have any further advice I'd be grateful. You're by far the best resource I've found on the specific issue of Gen 1 KLR electrical woes and my brain hurts from looking for answers :) Reading my good old Clymer manual now.
Oh man.... so sorry.....It is rare, but it could even be a bad flywheel (rarely, the magnets go south) But, lets start from the beginning, and work our way through this. First of all, does the bike start, and run?
MrDuhfactor. Ok great, thanks! Yes, starts and runs no problem, I just have to manually charge the battery after a few starts, and it will also slowly die as I'm riding. New battery though, since I originally just thought I had a bad battery and bought a new one. As for the flywheel, not sure if this matters regarding the magnets, but when I attached the new stator I felt the magnets grab onto it when putting the casing back on. I almost hope it's a bad part instead of a wiring issue.
The magnets on the flywheel should have enough strength to pull the cover on when you put things back together, so that may be ok. So, next question, are you checking the running voltage (three yellow wires) with the plug NOT attached to the regulator? And, your checking one yellow wire at a time, with the red voltmeter probe, and the black probe on a good ground? (like battery negative)
MrDuhfactor The tests that I have done are: ohm test between all yellow wires with bike off, tested good. Test between ground wire (negative probe) and yellow wires (positive probe) with bike running. Getting either 0.00v AC or .3 or
.4, so minimal. Not the 23 or so that you got in your test in the video. Battery tests at 12.7 or 12.9 fully charged and when connected to the bike. Shows no increase when bike starts, but drops to 12.3 or lower, down to 11.5., no change when revved up whatsoever. The connector at the regulator, when unplugged and tested, seems to be showing a lack of voltage. I'm going to run new tests tomorrow!
Ok, be sure to test the stator with the stator/regulator connection unplugged. If the stator is plugged into the regulator, and you test the stator like that, a bad or grounded regulator could skew your results as voltage gets shunted to ground. Does that make sense? If you can take a video on your phone of you testing it, and send to me by e-mail, that would be great. Mister duh factor at gee mail dot com.
Thanks. What do you do for gas to test run the engine when the tank is off??
Also my 2008 has the regulator mounted vertically on the right side down behind the radiator. It is completely obscured by the tank which has to come off.
Hmmmmm...... I have a fuel cell with a hose to attach from it to the carburetor that I made.....
Thanks good idea.
I get over 12 VAC at higher rpms(4000+) but only 6-9 volts ac at idle. Stator weak? How does it weaken like that? Thanks.
Yes, the voltage running should never get lower than battery voltage alone (engine off), even at idle. It should be closer to 13+ volts. Stators short out from repetitive heat/cool cycles.
You should check what the AC output specs are for the stator - that much variance between the phases would worry me!
Good point buddy. It's amazing how much variation there can be between coils. One pod could have one less turn than the others, making the voltage vary. As long as there's not shorts, no open wires (broken wire in the winding) and it's putting out voltage, your usually safe. Variation in voltage is quite common, but it is a great suggestion to know what the output specs are for that stator and compare, even for peace of mind.
with the bike running i had 1 wire that was at 9.6 volts. would this be the cause of the starter dragging?
The starter "dragging" or being slow has to do with either the health of the battery, the starter itself, or the wiring to the starter and ground. If you have one wire that is not going above battery voltage when revving the motor, but the other two wires do, it just means that your stator is beginning to get weak, but you still should have enough voltage and current to keep the battery at a full charge... does that make sense?
@@MrDuhfactor hey i appreciate you responding! i pulled the starter off the bike and took it to a repair man to have it tested. what i ran into was after the doohickey fix when i put it all back together and went to start it and it was just a click and nothing. well i think the starter solenoid stuck in the engaged position. because i soon lost the battery and the cables were warm. so i figured the battery was dead and i needed to jump it. when i hooked up the jumper cables the starter came on and started cranking but, it didnt sound right. it sounded like an air power ratchet when it would crank. i checked the solenoid by my shop manual and it checks out?
Good deal! Great video!!
NT8.... curious, next time your digging into the inner workings of Barbie, can you check for me whether or not her rectifier has the three yellow stator wires? I'm finding Italian bikes often have them, and just want to expand my information. Thanks man!
MrDuhfactor mine is FI so I think it is all in the computer thingy ma job!! LMAO!!!
Should still have a separate rectifier/regulator somewhere bro... found LaFawnduh's down by a big relay hidden under her skirt.... no need to take her apart my man, just store it in the back of your mind for next time she blows an oil leak and you strip her down :(
Oh wait yer right I know where it is.
hello, we have a question and how to check the stator if the motorcycle does not start (lost the spark) thank you in advance
Its hard to explaine here, so much to write, the manual has a good proceedure for static testing while the engine is not running. If your bike wont start because it doesnt have spark, thennit could be either the plug, coil (unlikely), or the pickup, which is part of the stator.
@@MrDuhfactor thank you for the hints, I will let you know what was the reason(if i find)
Hello, the voltage regulator was damaged as a result of this ECU as well. After replacing the parts and the motorcycle foot relay, the machine works perfectly
Wish the gen2 plug was under the seat... great vid tho!
Wouldn't it be bad to start the bike with the regulator/rectifier plug removed??
Shaine MacDonald no, it just has to run on the battery long enough for you to test it.
all my yellow wire have readings but with the bike on and negative lead on the negative, all stator wires read zero?
Is your voltmeter on AC? If on DC you’re going to get zero
I like that you know the meter will blow up at 7000V. Hah! You may want to hit any terminals you disturb with some dielectric grease. Especially if he is going to be riding in weather.
Good point buddy.... That meter was rated for 1k V DC, and I thought if I went above that, it would just pop the fuse.... she held on with a variac controlled transformer up to 7K, then went up in smoke.... Didn't have a fuse go surprisingly, just went down to Harbor Freight and bought another meter.... Wish I had that on video :)
What if all of the wires that go to the voltage regulator are connected?
Follow them down to a connector and unplug them. If there is no plug, use the pointed end of the voltmeter lead to pierce the wire sheathing you are testing.
MrDuhfactor I’m not getting any spark and I just replaced the stator. Do you know what the problem might be?
@@mrnoone7377 could be the coil, coil wire, kill switch, or rarely ECU
MrDuhfactor in the kill switch is every wire supposed to be grounded or is something wrong?
I got the spark turns out you should never buy cheap ignition switches from eBay. Turns out it was shorting some cables out making it not get the spark
Can u do this with the klx 650
Yes
@@MrDuhfactor could this box be the cost of no spark
@@dbdb4274 the cause of no spark is usually one of the following; 1) Bad spark plug, 2) bad coil wire, 3) bad or poorly grounded coil, 4) bad pickup by stator, 5) bad CDI, 6) faulty stop switch, and a few other possibilities. The stator putting out AC power is necessary for powring the spark, but when it goes bad, its usually just one leg, and should still put out enough power to send spark.
@@MrDuhfactor well its a klx650.. I have power from the red wire from the stator it lights up my test light I'm not sure if that's the main stator wire.. And i have power to the stator.. And from the ignition coil spark plug side has no power but the wire on the coil to the cdi has no power at all im at it the last two days
@@dbdb4274 you will need a wiring diagram to help you figure out which wire your testing, where it comes from, and where its going. The coil wires are tough to test accurately, but if you can find a wiring diagram, I can try to help you out.
Personally I'd have replaced the stator and regulator just to be safe since they're old
It's omega, the Greek letter that represents ohms.
Thats not where the stator is on pre 2012 and below bikes
philip Bak this is a 1994 KLR
MrDuhfactor copy that, sorry :0)
It needs to be above 14 minimum
Great video! , I was curious if you would know why neutral would be incredibly difficult to find on a 2007 KTM 450EXC, I recently bought the bike and It was the only issue it had upon purchase but I got an awesome deal otherwise, but is incredibly difficult to find even when the bike is off and I'm off the bike trying to find it by hand
Not sure buddy, don't have any experience with that bike, maybe post on some KTM or thumpertalk forums? Sorry pal.
would this work on a second gen klr?
Yes, it should
@@MrDuhfactor thank you so much, i appreciate the reply. Having a electrical draw when my 08 klr is running and sitting i believe so i’m thinking my rectifier is no longer working
@@erickgarcia6906 Having an electrical draw while running is expected, but not while sitting. Once the key is turned off, there should be no electrical draw from the battery under normal conditions. if you have a draw while the key is off, then there is likely a short somewhere in the system. Does that make sense?