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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Need help replacing the Heating Element - 240V 5200W (Part #3387747) in your Kenmore Dryer? Watch this how to video with simple, step-by-step instructions for a successful DIY repair.
Stay safe during your repair! Be sure to check
www.fix.com/sa... for proper safety procedures before you begin. Use of this video is at your own risk, without liability to Fix.com.
Fix Part Number: FIX344597
OEM Part Number: 3387747
Why you might need to replace the Heating Element - 240V 5200W:
1. Dryer not getting hot
2. Dryer tumbling but not drying
What tools you need for this repair:
• ¼ inch nut driver
• Needle nose pliers
• Putty knife
The information in this video is specific to Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag and KitchenAid. To find a Heating Element - 240V 5200W specific to your model, visit www.fix.com
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This video was awesome. Thank you!
Thank you. I changed my heating element
Definitely an easy job which I just did. One thing though I’d recommend you pull the filter housing that’s in the front there off(just 2 screws) what that does is A.. Give you easier access to the element housing and B.. exposes the blower impeller which will probably be packed with lint and you can vacuum all that shite out. While you’re there you can do the same to the inside of the filter house. Also you only need to pull 2 wires. The rest can stay with the housing.
Btw in my case the heater was ok. One of the safety switches was bad… Always ohm things out
Very cool. Thanks
good video
I just did this and the best thing to do when you are putting the casing back in is to flip the dryer on it's back!! Much easier to pop it back in than lying on the floor at a weird angle that's going to hurt your back. Flip 'er over! :0
This was the best advice!!!! I was on my knees for like an hour! Thank you!
Ok, I did it. Here's something I didn't catch in the video BUT YOU HAVE TO KNOW THIS, There is a tab sticking up on the tube, in the back. It prevents the heater tube from slipping out but it makes it a pain to pull out and a pain to slide tube in. You could spend days trying to figure out what is going on. The tab is on the top of the tube that slides into the back of the dryer. Tab looks like it screws into something but it doesn't, it slides into the back of the dryer and holds the tube in. You would think you can just slide the tube into or out of the back BUT no. You have to maneuver it so that the metal tab will let it move in. Tab holds the tube into the back of the dryer. Its looks impossible to slide the tube in unless you understand the tab will go first into the hole and then the rest of the tube will slide in as well. The tab is on the top of the back end of the tube. I know my words are hard to understand without seeing it but I hope it helps. When you are trying to slide the heater tube out, just think that there is a tab on the top of the backside holding it in. When you go to replace the tube, the tab must go into the hole first.
You just saved my sanity! Thank you!!!
Only found your VERY USEFUL Comment this morning ... unfortunately after spending a frustrating hour on the floor trying get that stupid heater tube back on! This is Critical to getting this job done ... wish I'd been smart enough to look at comments and see yours beforehand! The video talk about rotating it "back into place" to lock it in ... which is entirely wrong. My Two Key hints are: #1) Your revelation that the tab has to go into the hole, & #2) Leave the front support piece on the tube when reinstalling it. Thanks for your key comment ... hopefully the next guy will see it and save themselves quite a bit of frustration.
Okay but can someone tell me WHERE THE HOLE IS?! I’ve been sitting here for 30 mins trying to find it
@@summerbrowning326 what hole are you talking about? If you took the heating tube off… then you should know that it goes back into the same hole in the back… the deceptive thing is that there’s nothing on the front of the heating tube… just the deflector plate that is part of the front mounting bracket.
Make sure that you’re dealing with this specific model… some have the heater in the back… totally different.
The heating element housing has to be pushed up and turned counter-clockwise to release that tab. When putting it back in, it's easier to
attach the back 2 wires only and reverse the process to get it back in.
Thank you for posting this video. It enabled me to repair my dryer for less than $22. I expect that is a significant savings over a service call and no one needed to wait around for a technician,
Thanks sir. You saved my over $800 for a new dryer. Fixed my old one following your steps.
Can't thank you enough! We were about to replace it - too old to justify a service call, but lo and behold! 🧑🔧
Thank you soooo much, the video and comments helped out - able to fix our dryer without spending $$$ for a new one.
thanks!! very helpful listing the part number. got the part on amazon for 30 dollars! thanks for literally saving me hundreds of dollars for a new dryer
This was very helpful for my replacing of my heating element as well as your video on the thermal fuse. The area I was most stuck on was getting the housing section locked back into to the machine to get that tab in place. Very tricky but if it wasn't for this video I wouldn't have even known about the purpose of that tab since its not obvious just looking at the opening.
The Mr Rogers of dryer repair. Thanks 👍
Thank you. I was able to get the dryer fixed after watching this
Thank you for the step by step tutorial. You saved me a few hundred dollars!
Very informative. I thought I had to remove the back to get to the heating element but boy was I wrong!! Now I can't remember where I put all the screws lol 🙄
Thank you for this video! You made everything very easy to follow. I was able to fix our dryer.
You're welcome!
This was so helpful , my dryer works again thanks to you!!
Thanks for your video. My Kenmore model 90 series dryer had the heating element, thermal fuse and thermostat wired in series. That matched a wiring diagram I found later inside the machine. Solid red wire input and black wire in between and red with white stripe out. I took pictures of the wiring that helped me when putting it back together.
Great tutorial! 👍🏻 Very well detailed. Most of these are kind of a joke. I am impressed. Thank you.
Great video to prep me before I replace the heating element. Much appreciated.
Very helpful! Thank you.
Being not sure what the reason was for our dryer not heating, I just bought a heating element, thermostat, and thermal cut-off in the same package. I replaced the heating element first thinking that was it for sure. It turns out that it was the thermal cut-off. I probably should have replaced the thermostat as well but will have the part for later replacement if needed. This video helped with installation since I have little experience working on appliances.
Thank you sir. Just what I needed.
I just hope i ordered the right part..
This worked perfectly! Thank you.
Excellent video! Was able to replace the heating element and the thermal fuse because of it. Thanks!
Thanks a lot for watching, and glad it was able to help!
@@FixDotCom hello first off love the tips you share! Any ways i changed my heating element on my kenmore(same one on this video) still no heat! Any kther suggestions? I realize this is over a year old and its 1146pm (here in CT) but im really hoping that you still are posting and can maybe help me out!
Thanks for the help!!! My “user manual” was of little use for this fix.
Thank you so much for this video was very informative and helping me fixing my dryer. 💪✊🏿
Thank you for this video. Even though I had to remove the drum to replace my thermistor, I missed the screw on the side which your video covered. Saved me a lot of time . Thank you.
Great video! Helped me a bunch! Appreciate it! 😁🤙🤩😎😍
Thanks! This was a big help!
Close up shots would have been a plus.
i wish mine came out that easy, I had to beat it with a screw driver!
Sometimes it can be tricky!
it would have been nice if you showed how the wires go, just so we would have know that we put them back right
You should test the other components (the thermostat and the limit switch) before you assume it's the heater. Get an ohmmeter to test continuity before you assume that it is the heating coil.
Thanks
When you have a new dryer in a nice neat studio, and it still kicks your butt getting out. What a terrible design for the most common repair.
Does the housing go over the lip in the back or inside of it when putting back ?
The guy is working on a brand new dryer. The bottom panel on my 10 year old 110.66962501 dryer does not just pop off. I released the clips and got the top of the panel out about a quarter inch. It is in like it is welded. Could something have rusted to the inside of the panel? I have now bent the panel out and it will still will not move. It feels like there are another two or three screws holding it on. Help! I already ordered the parts but will have to cancel the order if I can't get the door off.
Yes almost impossible to get the panel off. The spring clips are very stubborn. Much tougher than what this guy shows.
Very poor design - just my opinion. Just use screws that can be unfastened. Clips? It's like the engineer gave up.
Does any one know the order of the wires to go back on ?
Thats what i need to know lol i just mesaage the fix.com guy because i changed the element and yet no heat! So i was wondering if maybe i wired it wrong! I did take a photo before i took apart but sadly my dumb ass had a bad angle. Did you figure yours out btw? Any tips? Thanks in advance
I cannot seem to figure out how to get the casing that holds the heating element out of the dryer. I have tried twisting it and I cannot see a tab depressed anywhere
I cannot figure out how to get the heating element housing back into the dryer. What's the trick? There is a tab that prevents it from going into the duct at the back of the dryer.
I also can’t get it back in
@@JonathanFerreri keep trying. It finally worked for me - after a lot of attempts and a few f-bombs! Try coming in low. Good luck.
@@JonathanFerreri
Come in at an angle. Do that part first.
Shouldn't be THAT hard.
Tried the angle and had no luck...so I got frustrated and took a pair of needle nose pliers and bent the lip with screw hole back so it was straight and shoved it in no probably after that.
@@JonathanFerreri Ha, whatever works, right.
tilt that machine back, bro so you can work on it easily 😃
Wasn't as easy for me as you, but I did it.
This wasn't as easy as you made it out to be
So taking 5 seconds to show how the wiring is supposed to be would have been too much work for you, I guess.
Funny video.
I marked my wires with masking tape that was easy on, easy off. front top (FT), FB, MT, MB, BT, Back Bottom (BB).