Mesh Bed Leveling for Sovol SV-01 & Ender 3 Pro (including flash bootloader)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มี.ค. 2020
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Mesh bed leveling is one of the most exciting features of Marlin 2.0 firmware. It lets the print account for uneven bed surfaces, so your first layer is always perfect even if your print bed isn't. Let's get our printers upgraded to support mesh bed leveling! I'll show you how to upgrade your Sovol SV-01 (easy) and your Ender 3 Pro (harder).
My review of the Sovol SV-01 is: • Why the Sovol SV01 is ...
My review of the Ender 3 Pro is: • Ender 3 Pro $200 vs . ...
-- RESOURCE LINKS --
www.coptertec.de/news/2019/ma... - Sovol SV-01 Marlin 2.0 firmware
• Sovol SV01 LEVEL UP wi... - How to flash Marlin 2.0 to the Sovol SV-01
Arduino IDE is - www.arduino.cc/en/main/software
The link to add Sanguino support to your Arduino IDE is - raw.githubusercontent.com/Lau...
marlinfw.org/meta/download/ - Download Marlin 2.0 firmware here
zadig.akeo.ie/ - Zadig driver fixer utility
-- PRODUCT LINKS --
I receive a commission (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase after clicking one of the affiliate links below.
Buy the Ender 3 Pro at:
* Banggood - bit.ly/2ulUIYq
* Amazon - amzn.to/36uK6om
Buy the Sovol SV01 at:
* Amazon - amzn.to/33Q2O7F
* Sovol - bit.ly/2DRp6eY
This replacement mainboard for Ender is going to seem like a bargain when you see what a hassle it is to flash firmware to the stock board.
* Amazon - amzn.to/32RdJiC
amzn.to/2TFeaIT - This is the exact AVR programmer that I'm using to flash the Ender 3 Pro. The plug is too big to seat onto the Ender's mainboard. I suggest using these wire extensions to complete the connection: amzn.to/2PQUO29
MANDATORY DISCLAIMER: I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
I am SO glad that I spent two full years after making the decision that I WAS GOING TO buy myself a 3D printer. For a long time, it was always, why spend thousands for small components that I may only need a few times per year.. But then prices went down. And I got deeper and deeper into my hobbies, which began with model radio controlled aircraft, and then to general electronics, then back to the interest in software programming I had in high school, and into coding my own firmware.. And now I have TONS of actual NEEDS for items which can only reasonably be sourced or produced via a 3D printer. And nowadays, even actual GOOD ones, not full professional/industrial. But actual good CNC machines that hardcore DIY folks and hobbyists who lean towards the professional sides of their interests have come down in price to that of what an average working class Joe can afford. And after 4 months of reading. I now have my first 'test run' print working in the other room on my brand new, currently being broken-in Sovol SV06 Plus. The Plus was what had me on the hook for it's price point. And it seems that it has OH SO FEWER issues than these Enders which only keep being re=packaged in only _slightly_ different color schemes or configurations whilst still being the identical near decade old piece of tech it is. The learning curve is steep. But as an RC Helicopter guy who taught myself to learn to fly from coaxial Mall Copters into mild '3D' aerobatic flight with actual high end hobby grade collective pitch helis. And my camera quads as my 'toys' to rip around on the front yard and street... So steep learning curves are steep fun slopes for me. Also being a skier since childhood.
Your videos sold me on the SV01. I just ordered one.
Keep up the great videos. Please !!
Great seeing you in DC. I run a glass bed cut from a local hardware store. It's perfectly flat. No issues at all
First time ive actually watched you do a segment on 3d printing. So happy to see you doing this! We are gunna learn something today!
My Sovol arrived yesterday!!!! No regrets. It took 50 minutes to assemble from the moment I started opening the box. If I had to do it again, is about 15 minutes of work. Loving it so far on day 2.
Thank you very much! :) The instructions are great. Now I'm getting better results with my sovol. Before watching your video I had problems to level the bed.
Great video :) I must get round to installing the BL Touch expansion that I got with my SV01 as well was the newer firmware.
New to your channel because I've been researching the Soval SV-01. It's been interesting to see a new(ish) 3D printer hobbyist learning the ins and outs of 3D printers the hard way. Your descriptions and comparisons and how-tos have been great--especially coming from a new user.
You're already becoming quite the expert!
Good video Joshua. I did the bootloader upgrade on my Ender 3 a while back to enable thermal runaway protection. I think my next upgrade though, is a new mainboard. I'm tired of working around Creality's ridiculous memory restraints. I would credit Teaching Techs channel for helping me along. Thanks.
Hi @Joshua Bardwell, I actually learned something today. My Ender 3's bed has always been a pain with a low centre and high edges.
It's a good idea to do your leveling with the nozzle and bed heated to temperature to compensate for thermal expansion.
And with a clean nozzle too!
I was going to suggest that. I find it’s a. If variance if I level with a heated bed and tip, or not. And not just getting up to temperature, the thing tried to print almost immediately, I find I get best results when I preheat, especially the bed, for 5 or more minutes, so it fully expands. Just my .02
I don't agree. From ambient to 200c, thermal expansion will be approximately .0006" or about .015 mm, also your going to fine tune your z height when everything is up to temperature and laying down the first layer.
BL touch is very usefull, I`m using it on octoprint on AnetA8 and measure 9 points of bed. Every print comes perfectly but remember to adjust hight between extruder and sensor
Fantastic video thanks for your time doing it. I never knew you could compile marlin 2 in ardunio I tried to do it in platform io and atom but it was way above my pay grade lol
Fantastic job, Joshua! And thanks a lot! 😃
I'm glad I chose a different printer from the Ender 3 - although I couldn't buy it yet. 😬
If ur just printin kwad tpu ya can get a monoprice mini pro for under $100 & do Lil mod for tpu to feed right.
@@flo-ridafpv5713 Yeah, I know, but that's not the case. 😕
Hi Josh, awesome video thanks. I purchased a Sv01 because of your recommendation. It been great thanks. whats with the green build plate your using? Is this a type of build tack cover or a new piece of glass?
On my Ender 3 Pro I just put a piece of paper under magnet bed, where it was too low. Not a perfect solution, but things got much better and now I have pretty decent bed surface.
I have it on my SkR 1.3 it’s amazing once you get it up and running which took me a week lol to set it up perfectly. Not a lot of guides and mistakes I made when I set it up. I am using the Bltouch so it’s a lot easier when probing and it compensates got different build surfaces.
I'm fighting this battle as we speak :) I am also a pretty big fan of SKR 1.3 so far but some of my motors (z-axis dual) are going the wrong way, if I reverse things in the config till it's happy and going the right way then the auto homing starts moving Z first instead of X? Super strange anyway I'll get there soon, the sensorless X/Y homing is awesome as is along with the UART controlled stepper drivers (TMC2209).
I'll probably just do some pin swapping and go back to normal direction for Z if I don't see anything obvious I messed up when updating the config but open to suggestions as well.
Shaun Husain the reason why it’s homing Z first is because you have safe homing enabled. It’s beneficial when having a probe on that’s offset from the extruder that if it homes Y/X first that it could be over the area where there is no bed since it uses end stops to home X/Y. If your not using a prob then you can comment that line in Marlin 2.0 just search for safe homing where you compile the code. It’s in either config.h or the other ___ can’t think of the other file name, but it’s one of the 2 config files you change when setting up your printer specs in firmware.
i flashed a bootloader using an USBASP i had lying around, it was quite straight forward. i'm running a freeabl mod on my ender 3, it uses the z axis micro switch, makes bed leveling a lot less hassle.
Thanks for the video - just found this video and channel. Can you help - my Ender 3 pro is a 1.1.5 board with a bootloader preinstalled… can I follow this, minus the bootloader stages?
Marlin and BLtouch works great on my printer. 👍
You are just convincing me more and more to get and recommend the SV01 over the ender3 when ever I get one.
Get a Sidewinder instead😅👍
N B like the missile??? 😂
@@calif94577 Indeed😅 It was known as the Artillery Sidewinder X1 earlier. Now it's Evnovo Sidewinder X1. Customs is still confused when something called Sidewinder X1 lands on their tables🤣
N B just looked it up. Damn it’s expensive.
@@calif94577 I paid like 350$, it is ok considering the build volume. The Evnovo Genius is almost the same with a smaller build volume. Worth a look.
Btw: there is a great community on facebook and co. Ready to flash hex files can be found easily.
Joshua do you have another link for that replacement mainboard for ender 3 pro? Or tell me the exact name of the replacement board.... thanks
Exceptional video! Heads up to new Ender-3 Pro users: Creality released an updated model of the printer around July with the 4.2.2 board that INCLUDES A BOOTLOADER! So try a tutorial for the new board first!
I just started the video, and I’ll say I printed the chain, non intuitive, installed (mostly) on the y cable, and on the fence if I’ll do x and sorry remove. OST of my kinks are fairly smooth, but I wonder if it adds any significant resistance. Also, even following the guide, I ran short on Z so have to print more links anyway. Just saying...
Hi Joshua! Thanks for this great video! Especially the guide to change the start gcode was very helpful. Other videos did not mention this and I was puzzled as to why the levelling didn’t have any effect. No I know :-) However, on my Ender 3 Pro I find a Menu item which says bed levelling: on. This item disappears after I ran a print. Do you have an idea what is going on?
Are the steps / board settings the exact same for the ender and sovol printers? Like can you follow the steps here, beginning at the 12 minute mark, to update a Sovol SV01?
I had the same problem with my monoprice mini.
Get a sheet of glass and some extra hold hair spray and it will be perfectly flat.
if i have the 2.2.1 silent board to install do i still have to get that mesh program or do i need the program. and yes i am very new to this 3d printing. thanks
Disable the stepper motors and by manually turning the z motor axis and inspect if both the z motor side and the lcd display side lifting/lowering 100% exactly. I thought I the same issue just to find that the one side will lift and for a less than a millimeter the the other side would move. After some minor adjustments everything was as it should be level throughout the bed.
Hey Joshua from the Future, greetings from the past, are you planning on making a video of the upgrades you have made to your Sovol?
Thanks a lot, and keep up the great videos
Happy Print-ying!!!
Just buy and print on a $2.40 custom ordered sheet of glass from your local frame maker, since doing this I leveled my Ender 3 once a year ago and it is still perfectly level!
can you post a link for the new fan mine got ripped off and is broken, the one for the parts cooler.
So I installed the BLTouch. Easy. But now my x and y are way off. I’m using same setup as you. What did you make those now? Thanks
I use a sheet of borosilicate glass on top of my bed. Glass is perfectly straight. Much easier solution. Also, PLA wants to print perfectly fine on glass without any additional help for adhesion. ABS or other material sticks amazing on glass beds that have a coat of hair-spray on it.
Auto leveling is cool and all that, but can reveal different problems in your filter, like Z backlash for instance.
What I don't see on your printers yet are Z-braces which you should investigate in my opinion. And also, square your printer with the help of these Z-braces. Not only does the Z axis tend to wobble without a brace, but also it's usually not in a perfect 90° angle with the base.
Also, I cannot see what Y-carriage you're using, but usually these printers come with a pretty cheap, thin piece of sheet metal, which also tends to deform when getting hot, or when adjust the bed-height. Upgrading your Y-carriage to something thicker and more substantial will again improve your printer a huge amount. Tehnologika(dot)net has some great y-carriages.
I agree. The "ultra-base" type build surfaces work well too, especially for PLA. I use it for my Ender-3 (though it's Creality's knock-off of ultrabase). Works amazingly well and is perfectly flat. I believe getting the mechanics/geometry right (or as perfect as possible) beats trying to overcome limitations/errors with software fixes. In drone terms, it's getting frame and motor relationships as square as possible to minimize the work a flight-controller must do to correct for imperfections... :-)
After installing this CopterTec firmware I'm no longer getting a prompt to resume printing after a short power loss. Any way to turn on this feature again?
My ender 3 pro isn't level in the middle when the outsides are level either but it hasn't seemed to affect prints yet.
I learned something today!
I'm NEVER getting a 3D printer!!
Why, they're so much fun :D
@@Streamlines quads keep me busy enough. It would be awesome with the kids though. I'm probably a liar and at some point...
Lately I’m enjoying the printer more than kwads, though I have a 40 hour print going now, and I’m flying In the a.m., so why have to choose? Choose both!
@@garygarland9366 if your printer is reliable enough, for sure. Most printers are nowadays anyway, if you put a bit of care into them!
Joshua you gotta get a leveling sensor then you don't even need to do the paper thing. The printer can auto level every time before it prints automatically.
Also if memory serves if you setup octoprint you can do bed leveling in that software and you don't need to change the firmware of the printer(It's been a couple years sense I moved from the house I could use my printer at so not 100% sure on that but I think I'm remember thing that correct).
Link to that crazy fan adapter you're using????
Thank you. I thought that I had to buy a bltouch to fix this issue.
A more solid solution to ensuring a level bed is the use of multiple boroscilate glass plates (3-4mm thick) and apply "grip tape," Kapton tape, Hair spray (directly on glass), or wide painters tape to them. The use of these depends on specific material thermal expansion levels from more to less in the order I just mentioned. The use of binder clips will reduce some available edges on two corners by half an inch. Do not forget which plate Z height in your global offset to make in the slicer before hitting start!
Dear Joshua
I followed your video step by step except in the programmer part, because I managed to get the Arduino uno to work as sanguino programer board.
when it comes to checking before sending it to the printer, I have an error, " exit status 1, compil error to sanguino board"!
Can you give a little help?
I really wanted to have mesh leveling, because my 3D Ender-3 is one of the first and it is as it came from the store in terms of software!
Best Regards
Vítor Lalanda
Joshua please start reviewing 3d printable drone parts :)
Teaching Tech has precompiled hexes for the Ender 3 (Pro)
I tried auto bed leveling, couldn't get it to work after two weekends of messing around. Took the bltouch off and sent it back, put a borosilicate glass plate on there and never looked back.
I am still getting an error when I try to verify the firmware in arduino software. It says it cannot be verified for the Sanguino board and I already commented out the ArcSupport, any idea?
Hello I need help with my sovol sv01. When power outage accuses my machines don't ask to.resume prints. Please help sovol can help me.
I got sovol machine with orginal board, after did update firmware 2.05.3
And add m420 s1; to cura. Load print to the machine. Then machine bed and nozzle heat up, but never start to print please help.
So in short buy a sovol not the ender 3 Pro gave me something to think about thanks jb
Hi Joshua, just installed betaflight says i am using non betaflight hardware. sp racing F3 neo fc.
Even with mesh level, I'm having to babysit my cable chain links as they print separately. I saved one link with babystep-z just at the right time. Maybe better to print all at once instead of separates?
Yes definitely. Lay a bunch of them out on the bed.
One thing to note. The new Ender3 pro ships with the 32 bit ender3 board and can be flashed via the SD card so don't need to flash the bootloader.
Hey Joshua, I've loaded this hex but on my Sv01's home screen it says err: EEPROM version. Did you have this same issue? I'm planning on asking around in the sovol facebook, so its not that big of a deal if you dont get back with me. Thanks for all the tips!
Reset eeprom in the menu or run the reset gcode download from coptertek.
hi, please help me. i'm new in this upgrade marlin to ender 3. so I've follow your steps, but for the bootloader I have arduino uno. is it fine or do I need to buy the same one with you? thankyou
You can flash bootloader with any Arudino you just need to set up the programmer script and find the right pins. There are other tutorials that definitely show this step in more detail.
easy active-levelling for those who cannot get or use BlTouch for whatever reason, or dont have glass beds (YET)
joshua! please please make a video on how to print from start to finish with the soval i bought one when you did and its only collecting dust i just dont want to waste the 180$ in sain smart tpu lol!
th-cam.com/video/_BuuGswqWWE/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/LkH7K6iUTcM/w-d-xo.html
ty
@josh try to use glass (not hardened) + glue. I didnt have to level my bed for 4 years :D I'm not using bltouch or any other autolvling thing, its useless.
Bardwell, it is unwise to try to print that many pieces using "all at once" print order in Cura. If you really want to do batches of parts do "one at a time" and reduce and place items you print far apart (to prevent the hotend from colliding with completed prints). It'll even print faster and cleaner due to cutting down travel time and retractions between each part. If a print fails you aren't left with 36x 50% of your models, you'll have 18 completed models and one failed one. That way all the material used and hours spent until that point aren't wasted.
Followed your directions on my sovol. I've leveled the bed as perfect as I can, however now I can't get any build plate adhesion. It was working before I flashed, but nothing will stick. It's like it's offset an extra bit up than it's supposed to be. Any tips?
Can you lower your Z offset?
Did you Save Settings after mesh leveling and setting Z offset?
Did you add the Start Gcode that loads the mesh to your slicer?
@@JoshuaBardwell yeah I followed all the steps carefully, and even went all the way through it 3 times trying to get it working, I did end up messing with z offset some but at this point I'm giving up on it. I'm just gonna downgrade back to 2.0.0, however now Cura wont detect it via USB.
Hello Jushua, can I help you with a small favor?
I have Mamba chip F405 mk2 4in1 esc 3-6s I have installed Beta..4.1.4 all are parallel, but the motor test does not turn, (Aming deaktivert MSP) I turn on the Aming switch, it appears red but not yellow, I have followed many of his instructions but it did not work, is there any way to help me? I sincerely thank you
th-cam.com/video/9iC1tuRBfxk/w-d-xo.html
@@JoshuaBardwell Thank you
this printed fan outlet.. does it hold the stock fan?
No. 5051 size fan.
For the leveling test...why not just use the CHEP leveling test?
The rest - great job!
I love your videos and the knowledge you share. But I have to say I was so close buying a 3D printer, the Sovol. But after seeing all the tweaking and retuning that's needed for a printer, I'm thinking it's not the going to be my cup of tea. I don't want to end up with frustration and buyers remorse.
Hey can I buy your Tango 2? I had one but our car was broken in to while we were flying and some fucker stole mine and two of my cine whoops and my torvol bag! And my crossfire module for my taranis!
Holy Crap! Here is something hilarious! In fact I have the exact same issue on my Ender Pro and ironically just this morning I was trying to print cable chain and had the same issue you are telling us about. How is that for strange...;) Thanks buddy because I was sitting here just now trying to figure out how I was going to fix this, but I do need to see if there is a way with the default Ender setup because I dont have this Sovol unfortunately...
Just use borosilicate glass, problem solved
@@flo-ridafpv5713 Yea thats what I am doing but would really love to use my magnetic bed. Just ordered the upgrade board so will be working on this soon... Thanks again!
@@kevinm3751 I have mag bed, n put glass on as needed, depends on what parts I'm doin, nice to have both.
@@flo-ridafpv5713 Yea I do to but the problem is it follows the dip in the middle of the build plate so it is not helping the underlying problem. So noob question... what project would support using the glass bed over the mag bed?
@@kevinm3751 just take off the top mag sheet n use glass when needed heats fine I use window pane cut at Lowes but ya can buy borosilicate glass on amazon it's dead nuts flat
My printer not start printing ??? 2.0.5.3 even i add mesh M420 S1; help
I would love to own a 3-D printer I needed to make some mounts for a cam in a rc truck
I can do any prints found on thingiverse for ya cheap if your in USA, I sell on ebay also, just lmk
Hi Joshua from Future. This is Chetan from past and present. it would be great if you can show how to do mesh bed leveling. as with Coptertec Marlin there are tone of options, and i tried all still its worst than before.
i have same issue.. i regret moving to Copter.. sucks
I installed 2.0.5.3 without bltouch and now my X hot end crashes and grinds into the end stop, what do I do to fix this? Please help
I don't know what exactly went wrong but if it's hitting your Z limit switch and not stopping, probably you flashed incorrect firmware. I mean presumably the height of your z limit switch didn't change.
The weirdest thing is happening. When I do a G26, it prints out some of the grid, and then eventually it just stops extruding. It goes through all the motions of completing the test print, but doesn't extrude any plastic. And it doesn't happen in the same place.
Why does my sovol not store settings with Marlin2.0.3? Something to do with EEPROM? Tried hitting INIT EEPROM but doesnt even wanna do that...
You need to "save settings" in the menu.
@@JoshuaBardwell thanks josh, do you mean through the menu on the printer? I cant press "store settings" "load settings" "load default" or "init EEPROM" without it making a sqwak sound and wont remember the settings. I did the 420 gcode thing
@@JoshuaBardwell Success!! In the Start G Code i typed "M502, then M500, then M501" one by one after saving each time. The sovol's screen then reeboted and i guess cleared the EEPROM out. So now it saves stuff. And i guess the "sqwak" is the normal beep for 2.0.5.3? Sounds like a bluejay.
After burning the bootloader you need to switch to usb to flash firmware. Flashing the firmware with usbasp will overwrite the bootloader disabling it
Oh no.... for real?
Joshua Bardwell yes sir
Or if it is easier, could you send me the file already compiled for me to load on the board ??
The version I'm using for the Arduino IDE is 1.8.13, if you have support.
Please help!!!!!!!!!
I would suggest you chose 7x7 matrix rather than a 3x3 for your bed. It takes longer (49 instead of 9 points) but compensates more, you called it "waviness".
By bltouch and you gone happy 😌
The exemple zip file is here by the way, but you will have to download all of them, not only for the Ender 3
github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/archive/release-2.0.4.zip
You can bandaid fix this in many ways, which this is one. Better solution would be replace the garbage bed with a ATP5 aluminum bed. Next put a proper build plate on it, or print directly on it... your choice. Then get the mesh bed leveling for the tiny imperfections like it was meant for and not what you’re trying to fix.
It has a pretty good glass bed. Maybe the lack of flatness is something else like a Z axis problem.
What kind of bed is that? My spring steel PEI bed is way flatter than that.
The "new" method for updating the Enders uses MS VS Code with the PlatformIO plugin.
I say in the video: I tried platformio but I had trouble getting it working and went back to Arduino which I know well.
show settings software speed all of it and lets do a gopro mount!!!!!
On the SKR Mini E3 it's a piece of cake with Platform IO/Visual St. Code, I have no doubt you will understand it to compile it and make it work on the Ender 3. A great guide on Reddit: www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/e894j7/marlin_20x_guide_for_ender_3_using_skr_mini_e3_v12/
Also changing the surface to a PEI or Glass bed is a good improvement over the standard magnetic bed.
im really hoping that coptertec.de upgrades this fw to include the touch screen. its either,.. have his marlin 2.0 for the regular mainboard, si;ent main board and or the bltouch but you have to keep the analog screen and knob. if you want the touch screen, you have to step away from marlin and use sovol fw..... lame... wasted money for a touch screen
Eh... BLtouch for the win. I haven’t touch my bed leveling knobs in over a year.
What about printing on the back of a mirror?
Just a thought while remembering this video
th-cam.com/video/8MOTMq9g8Nk/w-d-xo.html
I bought these ikea mirror tiles, but they are not perfectly flat neither. So your best choice is still mmbl. The surface is much prettier with the mirror though
Honestly glass is your best bet. But it’s not really a matter of the bed being flat but the Z/Y axis as well being flat with the bed.
visual studio code And download the plug in platformio extension. The other didnt work for me. Just saying
I downloaded and was attempting visual studio before this video came out. no luck for me, always an error while compiling. i might have to try this arduino IDE.
I tried that but I couldn't get it to work. Arduino at least I understand.
Ya'll ok after the storms?
If you compiled for the Ender 3 maybe you can share your hex file ? . . . nevermind, found it here www.danbp.org/p/en/node/146
420 huh... Lmao jk. I learned something. Bout to update my shiz
Prusa users are like "oh nice, retro tech" 😆
And them like: oh, there are printers for quarter of the price of mine?
No need to rub in that Prusa are the best. I have saved about $700 compared to if I had bought a Prusa Mk3, and I am learning about printer maintenance in a way that I wouldn't if everything had been done for me. The first thing I'm going to do is trash this Ender 3 mainboard. But I wanted to flash bootloader to it just once so I could have gone through what others have gone through.
Oh nice, retro tech. :D
Seriously though I think my Prusa i3 Mk3 is the best tech investment I've made, very little maintenance in 1.5 years.
Right now I'm designing & printing parts to place the filament spool in a dehydrator whilst it prints, since prints greatly benefit from dry filament, PETG & TPU more than PLA I've noticed.
Here's a prime example, same reel of TPU, guess which one was printed after the filament was dried:
haku.co.uk/pics/WetAndDryTPU.jpg
printing a cable chain is a waste of plastic, why why why would you do this
For fun. Because it makes my printer look cool.
I mean come on.... the whole point of 3D printing is "iterative design". 3D printing is a waste of plastic. Why do anything? Printing the cable chain parts made me realize my bed wasn't flat and I learned all about mesh bed leveling. Throw the plastic in the trash and it was still a good use of my time.
Joshua Bardwell fair point
If you got a ender 3 pro just buy a skr e3 mini !!!!
Still trying to figure out how to compile the firmware on my skr so I can get mesh leveling on my ender. The struggle is very real... Lol
Does a noob 3D print user *really* need this?
isnt this essentially what BLTOUCH is doing?
Yes but mesh bed leveling is free and does not require modding the printer.
@@JoshuaBardwell awesome, i was only asking as a comparison to the concept. im sure you have a bltouch waiting to be installed. i did mine yesterday and the results are pretty amazing. super consistent
Fpv Drone Content Please.....3D Print?... just Buy...Easy&Chiper.....!!....LOL.
Nothing new 🤷🏼♂️ already enough videos about this stuff
So go watch them? No hard feelings. For what it's worth, I couldn't find a single tutorial for flashing Marlin 2.0 to Ender 3 Pro mainboard that included all necessary steps to make it work for me.
Joshua Bardwell hey there are a few that do a really awesome job u may learn something today search for teaching tech on TH-cam as well as Chris Riley.
Mr bardwell looks like your moving from quads to printers is this a sign the hobby is dead for sure
Nonsense. There is plenty of quad content on my channel too.
Bruh...
Moving?
Branching.
Stick with the kwad vids, there are other better channels for 3D printing
About leveling the bed, I adjusted mine only ONE time, yes, ONE time my 3D printer bed, leveling the bed constantly = bed 3D printer hahaha
Totally not true you must not run the machine that much have a MK3 and after I eventually pulled some of the PEI off with PETG that was too well stuck down and replaced the surface I needed to add mesh bed level correction for the same kind of warping of the replacement bed. Depending on how big the parts are you're printing or how much of the build area you're using a leveling sensor makes a huge difference... if you print once a month no big deal you can get by with adjusting once a year but if you print all day for weeks you will want auto-bed levelling.