Owen, another inverter saved. The block in the DC input area is a simple DC disconnect plug that is missing. It connects the 2 terminals together, simple as that. Thanks for the reference to my books, a reference to the variable DC supply would be great, cheers, Andy
I tried putting a jumper across the missing plug and it began to initialise, but then it went into a constant waiting mode. which video do you want a reference for and what timestamp. I think I have already put a link in for the solis we were testing on your bench.
@@bootsowen Owen, been working on the wheel, 3 tries a day, getting there slowly. This is one of my original testing videos: th-cam.com/video/lBZqqEvjgZU/w-d-xo.html Cheers, Andy
Any idea how to connect those 4 little pins to extract the data from a similar windy boy 6000A? It has a Bluetooth module and aerial, but cannot find the signal…
Hey.........im new to sma.......the black thing on bottom of the box is a fuse , where they bond nuterial to ground........they are nuterial bonded to ground......that said......don't use auto transformer to make split phase power source ........cheers
Just picked up one of the larger units from the local scrap yard for next to nothing, it's also missing the DC isolator but was hoping to test it out before i spend the money on buying a replacement handle isolator from SMA.
I'd be careful using your meter in that way. Measuring continuity with the power on, if the fuse is blown you would potentially sending the voltage across the supply into your meter. When measuring such things, I'd recommend power off first... :)
That plug that is missing is a kill switch, just has 2 tabs that link each side, makes sense why it wasn't working :p Electronic Solar Switch | ESS handle replacement part | ESS-HANDLE:01 Just a question about the AC side, I've tried using a cheap inverter that says it's pure sinewave but I don't have a way to tests this and it goes between grid monitor and waiting, is it fine to plug into mains?
Hi, I see you went to the Andy Reynold's school of artificial source of PV. Are you piping the adjusted output of the variac into the 110v side of the transformer? I tried it straight through once but the circuit breakers recognised it as a dead short. I can only get to 280v DC which isnt quite enough to turn on one of my inverters. I also have a 10kW one bu lt that needs over 400V :(
Indeed, pushing the variac into the 110 side, then getting 0-480vac out. not sure that the rectifier can take that much but seems ok so fat on about 150-200v. really the transformer is a handy and cheap way of getting an isolation transformer. I have a little 240-240 isolation transformer, but it won't give the extra voltage. If you disconnect the earth in the transformer it should work.
@@bootsowen i will find the buyitfixit video. On testing my directdrive washing machine motor; I spun it with a drill while oscilloscoping the hall effect sensor. Back emf was strong enough to trip the clutch in the drill, lucky as it would have spun out of my hand.
i have one to, but know i have a problem. two strings goes inside, but all 3 leds are on, and they to not switch to working mode. do you have any idea? best regards
@@bootsowen Initialization All LEDs are on. The Sunny Boy control system is initializing. The string voltage to the inverter is between approx. 85 V and 225 V. The supply is sufficient for the system control and not quite sufficient for feeding to the grid. Data transmission is not possible yet. I put 2 Stings with each 112 Volt(comming out of the cable), so thats mean the inverter have enough power to switch from initialzation to feeding the grid. Or not? Im a homemade man so, im not an expert.. I read in an Artikel the power converter,( some have Lem Hj 15p or CMS2015(25) installed) and this one should be the trouble maker.... Sounds not bad to me......power converter....is transform DC to AC....and there is no power behind DC...So something between is the error....so this sound good to me. ´ What do you think....is there a way to find out? In a way of try and error? best regards and thx for your Answer. i appreciate,-)
Found the issue with my inverter... Ribbon cable from master board to board under display was not seated fully.. Another one saved from the tip as even Sma didn't know what issue was💪💪
Hilarious, smokey variacs boom. I wonder whether that DC daughter board is to protect the main from transients. And it may have done its job and and sacrificed itself in the role. Edit just read Andys comment yep you need to jump that connector preferably via a proper dc switch
Bravo.......my dc was rated 550 volts at 10 amp.......needed higher voltage to get signal.......cheers
Owen, another inverter saved. The block in the DC input area is a simple DC disconnect plug that is missing. It connects the 2 terminals together, simple as that. Thanks for the reference to my books, a reference to the variable DC supply would be great, cheers, Andy
I tried putting a jumper across the missing plug and it began to initialise, but then it went into a constant waiting mode. which video do you want a reference for and what timestamp. I think I have already put a link in for the solis we were testing on your bench.
@@bootsowen Owen, been working on the wheel, 3 tries a day, getting there slowly. This is one of my original testing videos: th-cam.com/video/lBZqqEvjgZU/w-d-xo.html
Cheers, Andy
Any idea how to connect those 4 little pins to extract the data from a similar windy boy 6000A? It has a Bluetooth module and aerial, but cannot find the signal…
Hey.........im new to sma.......the black thing on bottom of the box is a fuse , where they bond nuterial to ground........they are nuterial bonded to ground......that said......don't use auto transformer to make split phase power source ........cheers
Just picked up one of the larger units from the local scrap yard for next to nothing, it's also missing the DC isolator but was hoping to test it out before i spend the money on buying a replacement handle isolator from SMA.
I'd be careful using your meter in that way. Measuring continuity with the power on, if the fuse is blown you would potentially sending the voltage across the supply into your meter. When measuring such things, I'd recommend power off first... :)
You might have guessed that I know little to nothing about electronics! But help like this is what I need! Thanks. Keep it coming!!
That plug that is missing is a kill switch, just has 2 tabs that link each side, makes sense why it wasn't working :p
Electronic Solar Switch | ESS handle replacement part | ESS-HANDLE:01
Just a question about the AC side, I've tried using a cheap inverter that says it's pure sinewave but I don't have a way to tests this and it goes between grid monitor and waiting, is it fine to plug into mains?
Have a look at my other solar playlist videos where I show how I test.
Hi, I see you went to the Andy Reynold's school of artificial source of PV.
Are you piping the adjusted output of the variac into the 110v side of the transformer?
I tried it straight through once but the circuit breakers recognised it as a dead short. I can only get to 280v DC which isnt quite enough to turn on one of my inverters. I also have a 10kW one bu lt that needs over 400V :(
Indeed, pushing the variac into the 110 side, then getting 0-480vac out. not sure that the rectifier can take that much but seems ok so fat on about 150-200v. really the transformer is a handy and cheap way of getting an isolation transformer. I have a little 240-240 isolation transformer, but it won't give the extra voltage. If you disconnect the earth in the transformer it should work.
John ward's video is worth a look on the faults that can happen doing this silly stuff!
Have you seen the buyitfixit way using a washing machine motor, battery drill and rectifier?
@@bootsowen i will find the buyitfixit video.
On testing my directdrive washing machine motor; I spun it with a drill while oscilloscoping the hall effect sensor. Back emf was strong enough to trip the clutch in the drill, lucky as it would have spun out of my hand.
So the inverter only turns on when a dc voltage is applied on the left side? It won't display anything when ac is only connected?
It needs both AC and DC
i have one to, but know i have a problem. two strings goes inside, but all 3 leds are on, and they to not switch to working mode. do you have any idea? best regards
If all 3 lights are on what is the error code, what does it say in the manual? Have you looked up the fault list in the inverter software?
@@bootsowen
Initialization
All LEDs are on.
The Sunny Boy control system is initializing.
The string voltage to the inverter is between approx. 85 V and 225 V. The supply is
sufficient for the system control and not quite sufficient for feeding to the grid. Data
transmission is not possible yet.
I put 2 Stings with each 112 Volt(comming out of the cable), so thats mean the inverter have enough power to switch from initialzation to feeding the grid.
Or not?
Im a homemade man so, im not an expert..
I read in an Artikel the power converter,( some have Lem Hj 15p or CMS2015(25) installed) and this one should be the trouble maker....
Sounds not bad to me......power converter....is transform DC to AC....and there is no power behind DC...So something between is the error....so this sound good to me.
´
What do you think....is there a way to find out? In a way of try and error?
best regards and thx for your Answer. i appreciate,-)
Everythink ist No working, my Panels was to week, my Sunny Boy needs 365 Volt to produce AC. So problem solved
Hi all, I've a sunny boy sb1700 which when connected to dc/ac msg display says "disconnect ens1, 2 or both" any ideas peeps having no joy with info🙏🤞
what does the manual say?
@@bootsowen can't find any lit with that info even on net😕
@@bootsowen thanks for taking notice👌
No Idea, why not email SMA?
Found the issue with my inverter... Ribbon cable from master board to board under display was not seated fully.. Another one saved from the tip as even Sma didn't know what issue was💪💪
its a dc solar panels isolater input
Hilarious, smokey variacs boom. I wonder whether that DC daughter board is to protect the main from transients. And it may have done its job and and sacrificed itself in the role. Edit just read Andys comment yep you need to jump that connector preferably via a proper dc switch
I think it was just dust inside burning off, I stripped it down today and it still works, no signs of damage, but lots of dust.
How old is this grid inverter?
I dunno, how old is it?
Bravo......guess......gfi....cheers
dont post when you have no ides what you are doing
Do you know what you’re doing? How do you learn?