Tests might be little invalid in this video During few of your testings around middle of the video, multi-meter was not showing 0 when nothing was connected 11:49 as example It was already showing 30-33v reading and it was slowly moving down to 0, almost like it was charged somehow and was slowly discharging That might be why it measured stuff on higher side like, not 220 volts but instead 260(and was slowly going down) Same with 8:25 47uF, it reads it as 50uF but when you disconnected the leads, it was still showing 2uF on screen
That should have no bearing on the measurement when it's properly connected to the outlet terminals, it's not doing any kind of nulling measurement or anything. As soon as it's connected, the meter should be reading the voltage it's connected to.
From what I can see there is a big problem with it, it has auto shutdown, but when it turns off to turn it back on, it has to select time back to off and turn it on again
What the battery tester does is puts a load in series with the battery to test if it can actually drive a load. The value you see 40 here is directly proportional to the amount of current the battery would drive under load.
That's a strange one, never seen a symbol with that triangle-flash before. It seems like the accuracy of this is unusually poor from the reviews I've seen so far, so I probably won't be finding out for myself.
The multimeter does not measure the hFE of the transistors, because it does not have a built-in socket inside, and the pins of the transistors go into the void. If you add the socket, it starts working, but please correct the description in the front panel, C and B are swapped
Sorry. Didn't watch the whole video. Test for live wire. Mine just made a short "pip" sound, a short flash, and now seems dead. 😞 That was for 120V 60hz line Perhaps that is not what it is for ???
4:35 the manual says there's a kHz mode but there isn't one on the meter, so the manual apparently is either for a different model or they just lumped in a single manual for all their models
The multimeter does not measure the hFE of any transistors, because it does not have a built-in socket inside, and the pins of the transistors go into the void. If you add the socket, it starts working, but please correct the description in the front panel, C and B are swapped
I would never buy something like that. A multimeter has to be reliable of course, but FIRST to be SAFE... Never trust this garbage ! When I see your other videos, you are more serious especially when you speak about safety. You definitely lost 10$ 🙄
If you have any questions or comments or would like to suggest something please comment here.
Tests might be little invalid in this video
During few of your testings around middle of the video, multi-meter was not showing 0 when nothing was connected
11:49 as example
It was already showing 30-33v reading and it was slowly moving down to 0, almost like it was charged somehow and was slowly discharging
That might be why it measured stuff on higher side like, not 220 volts but instead 260(and was slowly going down)
Same with 8:25
47uF, it reads it as 50uF but when you disconnected the leads, it was still showing 2uF on screen
fair point. need to wait for the multimeter to show zero.
That should have no bearing on the measurement when it's properly connected to the outlet terminals, it's not doing any kind of nulling measurement or anything. As soon as it's connected, the meter should be reading the voltage it's connected to.
From what I can see there is a big problem with it, it has auto shutdown, but when it turns off to turn it back on, it has to select time back to off and turn it on again
Yes, agree. And the backlight or the lack of it. I also need to reset on/off the while testing because the it does not measure the lower ranges well.
The battery tester show a value around 40 with a full 1,5V Battery, what should this mean?
What is the "Delta Flash" between 200mVDC and HFE?
What the battery tester does is puts a load in series with the battery to test if it can actually drive a load. The value you see 40 here is directly proportional to the amount of current the battery would drive under load.
@@theweb2guy what's the mean of delta
That's a strange one, never seen a symbol with that triangle-flash before.
It seems like the accuracy of this is unusually poor from the reviews I've seen so far, so I probably won't be finding out for myself.
it is the current in mA to a resistance of 37.5 ohm, which is connected in the device parallel to the measured battery
Thanks bro, I was planning to buy it.
No problem 👍
Did you buy? Hows the accuracy and precision?
The multimeter does not measure the hFE of the transistors, because it does not have a built-in socket inside, and the pins of the transistors go into the void. If you add the socket, it starts working, but please correct the description in the front panel, C and B are swapped
Algún tutorial de este multímetro en español
What is the solid white triangle?
Could that be frequency?
Sorry. Didn't watch the whole video.
Test for live wire.
Mine just made a short "pip" sound, a short flash, and now seems dead. 😞
That was for 120V 60hz line
Perhaps that is not what it is for ???
@@ttrtilley you don't connect both leads to 120V, did you? Possibly it was meant to be connected only with one lead, the positive side.
Can I measure frequency with this multimeter?
No not this one. I would recommend Aneng AN8008 for frequency upto 10MHz
@@theweb2guy thanks
4:35 the manual says there's a kHz mode but there isn't one on the meter, so the manual apparently is either for a different model or they just lumped in a single manual for all their models
Hello, can you tell me does the package includes the battery?
No it does not
Is this transistor socket working on bigger transistor?
The multimeter does not measure the hFE of any transistors, because it does not have a built-in socket inside, and the pins of the transistors go into the void. If you add the socket, it starts working, but please correct the description in the front panel, C and B are swapped
Do you recommend it ? I need somthing ile that...
I would suggest you spend a little bit more and go for a better model.
@@theweb2guy thank you...so which one do you recommend ?
Like analises!
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I would never buy something like that. A multimeter has to be reliable of course, but FIRST to be SAFE...
Never trust this garbage !
When I see your other videos, you are more serious especially when you speak about safety. You definitely lost 10$ 🙄
Agree, I have bought an UNI-T this time, hopefully will review soon.