Did similar with a TDXS that i bought last year. Guy i bought it from (for £60!!!!) had coasters on it and glued a shortened reducer into it. I use my rods reel down anyway so left the reducer in and glued a reel seat in place and replaced all the shrink tube with new. Didnt use masking tape though just a nice big blob of the glue and twisted it to spread the glue about. Put the shrink tube on first and left it a bit long so it went under the reel seat a little bit, and looks good as new👍
Silly point.. but no mention of lining with stripper guide if its on the rod butt. And i would clean the glue off used for the bead..shrink wrap shows everything... and one reason for sliding is so can use fixed or multiplier on same rod that is designed for both
As below, you can use a junior hacksaw, start at one end and run the blade around the seat in a spiral. Then use a pair of long nose pliers to peel it off. It’s not too bad a job if you take your time.
As below, you can use a junior hacksaw, start at one end and run the blade around the seat in a spiral. Then use a pair of long nose pliers to peel it off. It’s not too bad a job if you take your time.
Not knocking the channel I think it’s great but that is totally overkill for fixing a reelseat personally. Use electricians tape or butchers tape rather than epoxy for fixing a reelseat. Electricians tape will hold a reelseat solid until the reelseat needs replacing. A Fuji Reslseat wears out before electricians tape does, if done correctly 9 times out of 10. Fishing in the roughest ground, up to 3 times a week in the north east, with up to 100lb braid straight through on large fixed spoils at times, reelseat will not budge. If on the rare occasion it does start feeling loose, or electricians tape starts fraying, replace electricians tape in 5 minutes. Not spend hours removing eproxy or ruining shrink tube. I have had electrians tape on rods 5 years plus. My own personal opinion. Keep up the good work.
Will add it may not look ascetically pleasing with electricians tape either side of the reelseat, but century Eva collers over the top hides most of the tape and also helps protect tape also.
Thanks for the feedback Mark, it’s always good to hear how others go about something. I’ve used this method for twenty years and built rods like this, perhaps it’s a Somerset thing but the local rod builders I know also use masking tape and Araldite. When you say about using insulation tape, are you applying it to the blank before sliding the seat over the top to create a tight fit? Removing a glued seat is not as difficult as you think. With a junior hacksaw you start at one end and make a shallow cut in a spiral from one end of the seat to the other. It will then peel off with long nose pliers. I’m sure a dremel would also work well, though I’ve yet to try. I personally prefer the glue option as if I’m fixing one in place, I want it to stay there, but we’re all different! Thanks again for the feedback and tight lines. Jansen.
If you wrap some insulation tape around the rod and push the seat over the top so it’s a tight fit, when you screw your reels in to the seat it should be tight.
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Did similar with a TDXS that i bought last year. Guy i bought it from (for £60!!!!) had coasters on it and glued a shortened reducer into it. I use my rods reel down anyway so left the reducer in and glued a reel seat in place and replaced all the shrink tube with new. Didnt use masking tape though just a nice big blob of the glue and twisted it to spread the glue about.
Put the shrink tube on first and left it a bit long so it went under the reel seat a little bit, and looks good as new👍
Silly point.. but no mention of lining with stripper guide if its on the rod butt. And i would clean the glue off used for the bead..shrink wrap shows everything... and one reason for sliding is so can use fixed or multiplier on same rod that is designed for both
I have a Sandstorm and my reel won`t tighten up, any ideas how to stop this problem. Rods not that old .
Do you have a reel seat or coasters on the rod?
@@VealsMailOrder2898 Reel seat, My Akios reel spins round ,but my ABU 7000 is ok.
i was wondering if the foot on the Akios is thinner than the 7000.
@@donsturley893 Is it a sliding seat with a cut out?
I believe it has
Stupid question maybe but mine move so thinking off this but how do you get them off if you ever need to replace them
You cut them off with a junior hacksaw and it's not a easy job
As below, you can use a junior hacksaw, start at one end and run the blade around the seat in a spiral. Then use a pair of long nose pliers to peel it off. It’s not too bad a job if you take your time.
Hot melt glue is easier
@@jasonebison438 Hot melt glue can melt in the summer, we’ve seen it happen.
How do you get it off if it breaks
As below, you can use a junior hacksaw, start at one end and run the blade around the seat in a spiral. Then use a pair of long nose pliers to peel it off. It’s not too bad a job if you take your time.
Not knocking the channel I think it’s great but that is totally overkill for fixing a reelseat personally. Use electricians tape or butchers tape rather than epoxy for fixing a reelseat. Electricians tape will hold a reelseat solid until the reelseat needs replacing. A Fuji Reslseat wears out before electricians tape does, if done correctly 9 times out of 10. Fishing in the roughest ground, up to 3 times a week in the north east, with up to 100lb braid straight through on large fixed spoils at times, reelseat will not budge. If on the rare occasion it does start feeling loose, or electricians tape starts fraying, replace electricians tape in 5 minutes. Not spend hours removing eproxy or ruining shrink tube. I have had electrians tape on rods 5 years plus. My own personal opinion. Keep up the good work.
Will add it may not look ascetically pleasing with electricians tape either side of the reelseat, but century Eva collers over the top hides most of the tape and also helps protect tape also.
I agree much better way of fixing a reeseat,it's all good and well glueing reelseats but if you have to replace them it's a nightmare to get them off
Thanks for the feedback Mark, it’s always good to hear how others go about something.
I’ve used this method for twenty years and built rods like this, perhaps it’s a Somerset thing but the local rod builders I know also use masking tape and Araldite.
When you say about using insulation tape, are you applying it to the blank before sliding the seat over the top to create a tight fit?
Removing a glued seat is not as difficult as you think. With a junior hacksaw you start at one end and make a shallow cut in a spiral from one end of the seat to the other. It will then peel off with long nose pliers. I’m sure a dremel would also work well, though I’ve yet to try.
I personally prefer the glue option as if I’m fixing one in place, I want it to stay there, but we’re all different!
Thanks again for the feedback and tight lines.
Jansen.
@@TheGameCamer360 Many rod builders glue these seats down, this is nothing new.
@@markigo858 There are many ways to skin a cat :) Shrink tube or rod wrap can also be added either side of the seat to make the job neater.
Yes i think so .
someone suggested a Jubilee clamp
If you wrap some insulation tape around the rod and push the seat over the top so it’s a tight fit, when you screw your reels in to the seat it should be tight.