I find it a lot easer using a knife blade on the reel seat rather than a dremel I just run it down the groove of the plastic I find you have less chance of cutting the blank and more control with it, great video though 👍
I do not have a lathe. I have a 1965 Abu 10ft spinning rod my father bought for me. Tbe reel seat can be moved on the cork handle to suit . It is disintergrating but i must fix it as i still enjoy using it. I caught my first atlantic salmon on it 13lb on our first trip. I am thinking i will have to strip it it.. new cork, from where. Thank you.
I stripped and painted my rod a different color, I just don’t know what clear to apply to the rod to protect the new color should I apply a thin layer of flex coat?
i know Im asking randomly but does someone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was dumb lost the password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Jackson Camilo Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Dear sir I want to restore my father's old fishing rod but I don't know what kind of paint is used for this. could you please tell me what type of paint can be used for this?. There is also some kind of sandpaper at the bottom of the handle, which I also want to restore. Is this a kind of epoxy?
Rod looked great prior to striping would be happy to make mine look this good I have a bunch of old rods from the 70es short handle pot aluminum handles with cork disc’s stainless eyes true temper mfg some other old hart rods this is what I need help on
Fauzi Panji Hermawan for the purpose of this tutorial... and because that’s what the customer ordered... a complete rebuild of this rod to make it over the top better :)
I will do that as well, as soon as I have the opportunity :). Thank you for the suggestion. I clean them, depending on the type of material the blank is made.
Hello i have a calstar how do i know if its fiberglass or not and if i want to strip the guides cant i use "paint and epoxy stripers from javs? And the whole rode looks like it was covered is epoxy or varnish it looks like it has a finish to the whole blank
Not if rod builder paste epoxy was used. Unless you are thinking that the tape arbors are all that's holding it, in which case I build on fiberglass arbors. Thankfully I have never had to replace a seat on one of my own builds.
Yes, but you need to keep an eye on it, and don't forget it with stripper for 2 long. It doesn't work on all the blanks/rods, so you have to test it in a spot, and if it works, then use it on the rest of the blank.
Thank you for the nice tutorial! One question: you warn to use the same techniques for restoring a fiberglass rod, because it will ruin the blank. For what reason?
Because it's a much softer material, and stripping the finish of of it might damage the blank beyond repair . I will try to make a tutorial about this whenever I get a fiberglass rod to completely restore.
@@sjeverett75 thanks for responding. I have moved from the UK to the west indies a few years ago. And the climate is destroying rods and reels. Everything rubber or derivaties of just falls apart. My wading boots top of the range, rubber sole......fell off. How do i secure these grips on the blank ? f
To get the blank to a perfect finish again, where you can't see scratches or the places where the guides were placed. You can definitely get there with other methods, this is just how I do it!
Hi, I think it is NOT a restore it is a rebuilding... I was very sad to see this destroying...I'd like to learn how can I restore an old rod, but it wasn't good for this purpose. Have you any video about "how can renew a cork handle", or "how can I change the reelseat without the demolation of the handle", etc. For me, the restore, or renovation means that...
Salut Andrei! Am nevoie de în sfat te rog! Trebuie sa inlocuiesc inelul de vârf la o lanseta de spinning (pastilă sparta), dar nu știu cum să-l dau jos pe cel vechi, deoarece e matisat. Cum înlătur matisajul și rășina? Am mai înlocuit inele de vârf dar nu aveau matisaj. Practic înlăturarea matisajului e problema mea, vârful fiind și foarte subțire, lanseta e Light. Mulțumesc!
95% of the times if you do that, and the guide doesn't come off you will bust the tip part of the blank. If you want to be 100% safe, this is the way to do it. If you don't care that you might destroy 1cm of the tip, then go ahead and heat the top guide, and see for yourself. I've had my fare share of f...ed blank tips, in order not to do that anymore, and not to advise anyone else to do it that way, unless they don't care of the result.
That rod, especially a Loomis, did not look in need of a restoration. I'm assuming you just did it for the demonstration? If so, I'd have picked a cheap rod to break down just to show the process.
You remove the tip ring by heating it up using a lighter, then grabbing it and slowly wiggling it off using tongues. This way the metal naturally expands due to the heating and the glue underneath will dry and become brittle as well. A few seconds of heat are enough, do NOT overheat. (Still safer than putting a dremel to your blank though!) Also, take care not to heat the ceramic part - if you to that it will most likely explode. If done correctly you can reuse the tip ring (or put it into your "spares box" for repairs) and have a rod tip with just a bit of glue residue at most.
That is an option if you want to take the chance to ruin a perfect blank. 80 % of the blanks I used to remove the tips with heat, used different adhesive than what rodbuilders use, and don't come off, ending up by ruining 1-2cm of the blank. I've had my share ... O the rods I build, or rodbuilders that I know, I use heat to remove the tips, but on factory done rods, 80% of the time heat won't help you remove the tip, unless you want to ruin 1-2cm of the tip of the blank. It will eventually come off, but with a cost. In my professional/personal/steady handed opinion, if you don't want to ruin a perfectly good blank, this is the best/safest way to remove the tip top guide... P.S. blanks with more fibreglass content are more prone to heat damage than high modulus carbon...
KENSHIRO MIYAMOTO good observation. I do it like that because otherwise you risk heat damaging the tip of the blank! I’d rather throw away a guide than risk damaging the tip of the blank. I’ve had my share of damaged tips like that and don’t want to repeat that.
@@asavafishing but with epoxy/carbon fibre prepreg you can heat it unless you bend it or twist that's how fibres separate from resin. Plus even if you damage the tip you will never ever break the very tip tip section
KENSHIRO MIYAMOTO this is how I do it just to keep it safe. Why risk it if not necessary. That guide would’ve went to the bin anyway . I replaced everything with torzites and don’t use old generation TiSiC guides anymore as they have heavy ceramic inserts compared to the new ones!
Yeah everyone’s got their own way of doing things. Sic has a better heat transferring speed, and Torzite has less hardness compared to SIC. The original reason why they don’t use metal rings is because they are softer than ceramics but ceramics have less heat transferring speeds, and SIC comes in the middle sacrificing the heat problem for the hardness, but then Torzite comes now..... are they really good? I always preferred the gold cermet guides until Fuji stopped making them
Because you might damage the tip. Different builders, use different types of tip glue, some come off with a little heating, some don't. If they don't come off with very little heat, then I go and cut them off. I never overheat, as i have damaged tips in the past.
P.S. Everything can also be done manually, but it would've probably taken me another 3-6 hours on top of the 1 entire day of editing and another day of filming this!
It doesn't work every time. Cutting it ... works every time, and you never mess up the blank tip. I'd rather have a perfect blank and a tip to throw away than a blank that's missing 1cm (1/2inch) from it's top :) .
You got in backwards, cutting it seem to be a lot easier to mess up and ruin the tip. Carbon is already heated/burnt to crisp, there is NO heat damage.
It doesn’t always come off like that. And depending on the material the blank is made of you can damage the tip irreparably. This is the safest way I found that will always protect the blank 100%. With heat I ended up damaging some in the past. I first try lighter all the time but 7 out of 10 the tip doesn’t come off only by extensive heating. The tutorial shows the safest way... believe it or not.
mai dat pe spate cum ai scos inelul de varf😂😂 daca incalzeai cu bricheta putin si puneau o carpa sa nu te frigi si trageai de iel iesea foarte usor si se putea refolosi , in rest nu mai scriu nimic ca ori cum nu sti nimic 😂😂
Și dacă nu iese ? Ce faci? Tai vârful jos sau prăjești rășina din porțiunea aceea de vârf. Am stricat câteva lansete folosind metoda menționata de tine… așa ca rămân la părerea ca așa cum e făcut in acest clip … este cea mai buna varianta dacă nu iese cu putina caldura (in ~70% din cazuri nu iese prin încălzire decât dacă vrei sa prăjești vârful lansetei)
Nu sunt vreun expert dar epoxi bicomp de folosesti la matisari se inmoaie le caldura ia un hitgun si nu te mai chinuii cu cutitul Nu iti fa griji carbonul nu este afectat la ce temp dezvolti cu hitgun....iar inelul de vf iese fara stresul ca atingi blankul cu dremelu...
Carbonul din care este facut blankul nu este numai de un fel.... este de diferite feluri. Am ajuns la ce am prezentat aici... datorita unor experimente nereusite... Sunt unele varfuri lipite cu niste adezivi de nu-i inmoi cu nimic... Daca ai incredere ca nu vei strica varful si ai 1-2 lansete pe an... atunci poti sa faci asa... dar cand ai patit-o cel putin o data... iti spun eu ca nu mai ai curaj sa repeti experimentul. De obicei prima oara incerc cu incalzire, dar cam 50% din ele nu ies asa, si nu incer sa incalzesc excesiv... cam la 50% din lansete trebuie sa aplic metoda prezentata... daca ar fi sa aplic o singura metoda, ar fi singura pe care as utiliza-o, daca vreau sa fiu 100% ca nu distrug varful lansetei.
It was the customer’s request.... to turn it into a better rod.... I just made the tutorial :) the blank was kept just because it’s something special:).
That is the first thing I try… but almost 70% of times the tip top doesn’t come off… and in those 30% it does there’s a 50-50 chance you will ruin that first 1cm because of the heat…. If it doesn’t come off with a very little amount of heat this is the safest way… believe it or not:) 95% of the times if you do that, and the guide doesn't come off right away you will bust the tip part of the blank. If you want to be 100% safe, this is the way to do it. If you don't care that you might destroy 1cm of the tip, then go ahead and heat the top guide, and see for yourself. I've had my fare share of f...ed blank tips, in order not to do that anymore, and not to advise anyone else to do it that way, unless they don't care of the result.
The purpose... is that you can't get this exact blank anymore.... and the customer wanted upgraded everything from guides to handle to take the rod from the way they were built in 2000 to the best possible made in 2020 :). th-cam.com/video/D71Z9RHc3cU/w-d-xo.html - this is where I make the new handle on this blank.
You make the best rod videos ever. Btw, wish I could find a few dozen old Loomis rods to strip.
Thx:) . Wish you luck in your Loomis endeavour :D
Good editing! I came back for the music to play at my dance party!
🕺💃🤣
:))
Your a true craftsmen, your the guy that I would like to have build my rods.
Thank you!
For that purpose you can contact me on: instagram.com/asavacustomrods/ , facebook.com/ASAVAcustom or on whatsapp +40728398870
A thing of beauty
I find it a lot easer using a knife blade on the reel seat rather than a dremel I just run it down the groove of the plastic I find you have less chance of cutting the blank and more control with it, great video though 👍
There’s also metal in there :)
Superba tehnica. Multumim pentru faptul ca impartasesti din experienta ta.
DANG! that's a lot of work!
I do not have a lathe. I have a 1965 Abu 10ft spinning rod my father bought for me. Tbe reel seat can be moved on the cork handle to suit . It is disintergrating but i must fix it as i still enjoy using it. I caught my first atlantic salmon on it 13lb on our first trip. I am thinking i will have to strip it it.. new cork, from where. Thank you.
Unique idea & great benefit for poor people and unemploy youth
I stripped and painted my rod a different color, I just don’t know what clear to apply to the rod to protect the new color should I apply a thin layer of flex coat?
Automotive stuff usually works
Very nice what you are doing, we don't even have the old formula and have the price buy it
Great job!
A very good tutorial,Thank you.
i know Im asking randomly but does someone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb lost the password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Emerson Ronald instablaster =)
@Jackson Camilo Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jackson Camilo it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
@Emerson Ronald glad I could help xD
Salut ! Cat costa o lanseta A.SAVA baitcast ...2 m si 10 -30 gr puterea de aruncare ??
Do you need be be concerned with breathing in debris? If so, what type of facemask do you wear? For the dust. Resin. New to rod building.
I honestly dont think theres that much breathable debris that will go past your nose …
Is there another video on the next step? What do you use on the now stripped blank? Paint? Colored Epoxy? thanks!
Look in the tutorial, tips & tricks and there are extra tutorials following this.
Dear sir I want to restore my father's old fishing rod but I don't know what kind of paint is used for this. could you please tell me what type of paint can be used for this?. There is also some kind of sandpaper at the bottom of the handle, which I also want to restore. Is this a kind of epoxy?
Rod looked great prior to striping would be happy to make mine look this good I have a bunch of old rods from the 70es short handle pot aluminum handles with cork disc’s stainless eyes true temper mfg some other old hart rods this is what I need help on
Great informative video! Thank you!! BUT...the camera work and editing made me motion sick!
Will keep that in mind :P
If you have beefy unground blanks like i have, whats the procedure there?
wow the fuji reelseat thats in good condition why you must destroy it?
Fauzi Panji Hermawan for the purpose of this tutorial... and because that’s what the customer ordered... a complete rebuild of this rod to make it over the top better :)
So many people mad about the “destruction” of the GLX 😂
There are much better blanks nowadays.Much lighter more sensitive
WSB GREAT JOB,,I HAVE A SURF ROD,(RON ARRA),GREAT BLANK BUT IT IS PAINTED,,A VIDEO ON HOW TO CLEAN,
SUGGESTIONS ON CLEANING?
I will do that as well, as soon as I have the opportunity :). Thank you for the suggestion.
I clean them, depending on the type of material the blank is made.
P.S. The concept is similar as long it’s not a rod with very much glass content .
Is wet sanding the finish, or do I epoxy the whole rod when done?
Thanks
I prefer them wet sanded. You can also coat if you want , but not necessary.
Hi good video I understand everything. Is possible to share the brand of the Knife or some information about so I can find something similar. Thanks
Just a blunt knife... .. it doesn;t matter... so you don't scratch the blank as much
@@asavafishing thanks 🙏 I know is a stupid question, but I want to have the security to take the correct way. Thanks again for your feedback
That pretty neato to watch
If you want to learn something new, let me know what you'd like to see, and I'll try to make it happen.
Hello i have a calstar how do i know if its fiberglass or not and if i want to strip the guides cant i use "paint and epoxy stripers from javs? And the whole rode looks like it was covered is epoxy or varnish it looks like it has a finish to the whole blank
Calstar are mainly with higher fiberglass content. Fiberglass needs a different stripping process.
what about if i want to paint?! clear coat/epoxy?
You can paint afterwards. I recommend automotive paints !
Nail polish remover poured under the reel seat and the glue dissolves and then you can slide the reel seat off and reuse it
Not if rod builder paste epoxy was used. Unless you are thinking that the tape arbors are all that's holding it, in which case I build on fiberglass arbors. Thankfully I have never had to replace a seat on one of my own builds.
Just a quick one, removing paint and varnish from the blank, can I use a stripper?
Yes, but you need to keep an eye on it, and don't forget it with stripper for 2 long. It doesn't work on all the blanks/rods, so you have to test it in a spot, and if it works, then use it on the rest of the blank.
is the lathe a deal breaker? i don't have one.
No it is not! Do everything manually .. it just takes longer !
Thanks for share.
Great Video!!!! thanks
Thank you for the nice tutorial! One question: you warn to use the same techniques for restoring a fiberglass rod, because it will ruin the blank. For what reason?
Because it's a much softer material, and stripping the finish of of it might damage the blank beyond repair .
I will try to make a tutorial about this whenever I get a fiberglass rod to completely restore.
Thank you for the quick feedback! I already thought so. I'm curious about the video...
Mines fiberglass. Should i use that modern black spongey stuff a d forget the cork ?
@@williamavery9185 you mean eva grips. Thats a personal preference. Personally I like winn grips. Eva with rubber over that. Good grip in all weather.
@@sjeverett75 thanks for responding. I have moved from the UK to the west indies a few years ago. And the climate is destroying rods and reels. Everything rubber or derivaties of just falls apart. My wading boots top of the range, rubber sole......fell off. How do i secure these grips on the blank ?
f
Full Wet Sanding ??? why do you need this ?
To get the blank to a perfect finish again, where you can't see scratches or the places where the guides were placed.
You can definitely get there with other methods, this is just how I do it!
How do u take off old wooden bottem handle?
Knife, Dremel, a heat gun and patience
Când veti mai face un episod de pescuit în Delta dunării murighiol ?
Cel mai probabil la vara!
@@asavafishing foarte bine pentru ca atunci este cel mai bine !
Hi, I think it is NOT a restore it is a rebuilding... I was very sad to see this destroying...I'd like to learn how can I restore an old rod, but it wasn't good for this purpose. Have you any video about "how can renew a cork handle", or "how can I change the reelseat without the demolation of the handle", etc. For me, the restore, or renovation means that...
Thx for the input. I’ll make sure to get those tutorials done as well in the next couple of months .
@@asavafishing Thank you in anticipation!
Salut Andrei! Am nevoie de în sfat te rog! Trebuie sa inlocuiesc inelul de vârf la o lanseta de spinning (pastilă sparta), dar nu știu cum să-l dau jos pe cel vechi, deoarece e matisat. Cum înlătur matisajul și rășina? Am mai înlocuit inele de vârf dar nu aveau matisaj. Practic înlăturarea matisajului e problema mea, vârful fiind și foarte subțire, lanseta e Light. Mulțumesc!
Heat the top guide that way you wont split the blank with the dremel
95% of the times if you do that, and the guide doesn't come off you will bust the tip part of the blank. If you want to be 100% safe, this is the way to do it. If you don't care that you might destroy 1cm of the tip, then go ahead and heat the top guide, and see for yourself.
I've had my fare share of f...ed blank tips, in order not to do that anymore, and not to advise anyone else to do it that way, unless they don't care of the result.
That rod, especially a Loomis, did not look in need of a restoration. I'm assuming you just did it for the demonstration? If so, I'd have picked a cheap rod to break down just to show the process.
For demonstrations and because customer wanted to upgrade it to the max!
@@asavafishing I see, have you ever done a painted rod?
P.S. Dupa ce ai smirghelit blank-ul nu l-ai mai dat cu nimic? Gen epoxy, lac. Asa ramane matuit.
Asa ramane
Where can I get mines done
:)) Let me know where are you from!
Where we can buy the machine
Look up mud hole.
I’ve aded a link in the description
Foarte tare !
You remove the tip ring by heating it up using a lighter, then grabbing it and slowly wiggling it off using tongues. This way the metal naturally expands due to the heating and the glue underneath will dry and become brittle as well. A few seconds of heat are enough, do NOT overheat. (Still safer than putting a dremel to your blank though!)
Also, take care not to heat the ceramic part - if you to that it will most likely explode. If done correctly you can reuse the tip ring (or put it into your "spares box" for repairs) and have a rod tip with just a bit of glue residue at most.
That is an option if you want to take the chance to ruin a perfect blank. 80 % of the blanks I used to remove the tips with heat, used different adhesive than what rodbuilders use, and don't come off, ending up by ruining 1-2cm of the blank. I've had my share ... O the rods I build, or rodbuilders that I know, I use heat to remove the tips, but on factory done rods, 80% of the time heat won't help you remove the tip, unless you want to ruin 1-2cm of the tip of the blank. It will eventually come off, but with a cost.
In my professional/personal/steady handed opinion, if you don't want to ruin a perfectly good blank, this is the best/safest way to remove the tip top guide...
P.S. blanks with more fibreglass content are more prone to heat damage than high modulus carbon...
What kind of rod wrapper/lathe are you useing? Do you use the same thing to shape cork?
That rod wrapper is an Alps wrapper. It can be used to turn cork for sure. Alps chucks are one of the best built chucks out there imo.
What primer and paint needed?
Bonda seal works great on the bare blank . If you want colours you can use car paint apparently
Thx for the answear :D.
awesome
Is that toy just a blunt knife or is it something I can buy new? Thanks
Just a blunt knife!
The music is very annoying and distracting I had to turn my volume down.
Right off the bat... i say.... leave the original cork !! I would anyways.
It was the customer’s request to do this! So not for me to decide :)
Meserie...bravo!
Would you paint the rod?... What would you use?
Like friends...good
جميل
Unde's românași mei?😁
:)). ce vrei sa spui?
@@asavafishing ca nu e un com pe română
why did he break the tip guide? that's one of the most expensive guides. Pretty much all rod builders heat it and take it off. What a waste....
KENSHIRO MIYAMOTO good observation. I do it like that because otherwise you risk heat damaging the tip of the blank! I’d rather throw away a guide than risk damaging the tip of the blank. I’ve had my share of damaged tips like that and don’t want to repeat that.
@@asavafishing but with epoxy/carbon fibre prepreg you can heat it unless you bend it or twist that's how fibres separate from resin. Plus even if you damage the tip you will never ever break the very tip tip section
KENSHIRO MIYAMOTO this is how I do it just to keep it safe. Why risk it if not necessary. That guide would’ve went to the bin anyway . I replaced everything with torzites and don’t use old generation TiSiC guides anymore as they have heavy ceramic inserts compared to the new ones!
Yeah everyone’s got their own way of doing things.
Sic has a better heat transferring speed, and Torzite has less hardness compared to SIC.
The original reason why they don’t use metal rings is because they are softer than ceramics but ceramics have less heat transferring speeds, and SIC comes in the middle sacrificing the heat problem for the hardness, but then Torzite comes now..... are they really good?
I always preferred the gold cermet guides until Fuji stopped making them
KENSHIRO MIYAMOTO Torzites are amazing, very light and thinner diameter, smoother than SiC, and better impact resistant.
👍👍👍
Gostei
Thank YOU !
🙏🏻
Why not use heat to remove the tiptop guide.
Because you might damage the tip. Different builders, use different types of tip glue, some come off with a little heating, some don't. If they don't come off with very little heat, then I go and cut them off. I never overheat, as i have damaged tips in the past.
I heated the resin too much on the guides and my rod snapped after refinishing it. Lesson learned.
Need to be careful with that !
P.S. that’s why I usually cut off the tip guide as I do !
Takdak kerja dah kot kawan ni benda dok elok lagi. Hmmm macam2 matnusia ni
Easier to buy a new one.
The new one is still outdated, and with big, heavy hardware on it... just like the old ones :(...
Cool lets all buy a lathe lol wheres the vidoe of restoring the rod?
This is how it was restored... This is how the customer wanted it ! th-cam.com/video/D71Z9RHc3cU/w-d-xo.html
P.S. Everything can also be done manually, but it would've probably taken me another 3-6 hours on top of the 1 entire day of editing and another day of filming this!
Heat the tip. The glue will soften and you slide the tip right off.
Except for the epoxy over the tip and thread. Unless you have a crappy rod that has the tip just glued on.
No need to cut the tip, use a lighter to beat up the glue and pull it off.
It doesn't work every time. Cutting it ... works every time, and you never mess up the blank tip.
I'd rather have a perfect blank and a tip to throw away than a blank that's missing 1cm (1/2inch) from it's top :)
.
You got in backwards, cutting it seem to be a lot easier to mess up and ruin the tip. Carbon is already heated/burnt to crisp, there is NO heat damage.
Ye can heat the tip top with a cigarette lighter and take it off
It doesn’t always come off like that. And depending on the material the blank is made of you can damage the tip irreparably. This is the safest way I found that will always protect the blank 100%. With heat I ended up damaging some in the past. I first try lighter all the time but 7 out of 10 the tip doesn’t come off only by extensive heating. The tutorial shows the safest way... believe it or not.
Salam sehobi bro...sudah padam lampu merahnya,ditunggu balik
Love the video but totally hate the music!
Sorry mate :D.... This was my inspiration at the time :P.
mai dat pe spate cum ai scos inelul de varf😂😂 daca incalzeai cu bricheta putin si puneau o carpa sa nu te frigi si trageai de iel iesea foarte usor si se putea refolosi , in rest nu mai scriu nimic ca ori cum nu sti nimic 😂😂
Și dacă nu iese ? Ce faci? Tai vârful jos sau prăjești rășina din porțiunea aceea de vârf. Am stricat câteva lansete folosind metoda menționata de tine… așa ca rămân la părerea ca așa cum e făcut in acest clip … este cea mai buna varianta dacă nu iese cu putina caldura (in ~70% din cazuri nu iese prin încălzire decât dacă vrei sa prăjești vârful lansetei)
Show 👍🐟🇧🇷
👍🏾
Nu sunt vreun expert dar epoxi bicomp de folosesti la matisari se inmoaie le caldura ia un hitgun si nu te mai chinuii cu cutitul Nu iti fa griji carbonul nu este afectat la ce temp dezvolti cu hitgun....iar inelul de vf iese fara stresul ca atingi blankul cu dremelu...
Carbonul din care este facut blankul nu este numai de un fel.... este de diferite feluri. Am ajuns la ce am prezentat aici... datorita unor experimente nereusite... Sunt unele varfuri lipite cu niste adezivi de nu-i inmoi cu nimic... Daca ai incredere ca nu vei strica varful si ai 1-2 lansete pe an... atunci poti sa faci asa... dar cand ai patit-o cel putin o data... iti spun eu ca nu mai ai curaj sa repeti experimentul.
De obicei prima oara incerc cu incalzire, dar cam 50% din ele nu ies asa, si nu incer sa incalzesc excesiv... cam la 50% din lansete trebuie sa aplic metoda prezentata... daca ar fi sa aplic o singura metoda, ar fi singura pe care as utiliza-o, daca vreau sa fiu 100% ca nu distrug varful lansetei.
@@asavafishing respect eu am avut de cateva ori probleme de schimbat inelul de varf dar se pare am fost norocos
apparently lumis was a complete idiot by making such rods which you need to cut))
It was the customer’s request.... to turn it into a better rod.... I just made the tutorial :) the blank was kept just because it’s something special:).
Find someone who can verbalize and cut the music, then come back with an informative video. Just saying.
No thanks, I'll just look for another used rod.
👀
T5 by by b by
Nice video but a annoying choice of background music
It is what it is. Music is something personal, and you might like it or not. The same way with food tastes... :D
Prostia nu doare.
Just use a lighter to heat the tip top, and remove it with gloves or a rag. It slides right off.
That is the first thing I try… but almost 70% of times the tip top doesn’t come off… and in those 30% it does there’s a 50-50 chance you will ruin that first 1cm because of the heat….
If it doesn’t come off with a very little amount of heat this is the safest way… believe it or not:)
95% of the times if you do that, and the guide doesn't come off right away you will bust the tip part of the blank. If you want to be 100% safe, this is the way to do it. If you don't care that you might destroy 1cm of the tip, then go ahead and heat the top guide, and see for yourself.
I've had my fare share of f...ed blank tips, in order not to do that anymore, and not to advise anyone else to do it that way, unless they don't care of the result.
TeruS faedah nya apa?
Kalo mau ambil blanknya,tinggal beli aja blank baru terus di rakit.
Yg udah bagus malah di bongkar...
The purpose... is that you can't get this exact blank anymore.... and the customer wanted upgraded everything from guides to handle to take the rod from the way they were built in 2000 to the best possible made in 2020 :).
th-cam.com/video/D71Z9RHc3cU/w-d-xo.html - this is where I make the new handle on this blank.
What a waste of time
What do u put on the rod after sanding it down? Rod finish, clear coat or U40 permagloss?
Actually... I leave it raw!