Great video.. is this job possible "at home" w the car on jack stands? I understand it would be difficult, just curious as to if it would even be possible. Thanks!
Any tips for that front facing bolt? the bottom two 19mm bolts came out fairly easy with impact wrench but man front one is being a pain. I hit it with 3 rounds of break loose spray and even torched it a couple times. it is in there GOOD
that woked!@@Natesautorepairs finally broke loose. Now, I have a new question haha. The driver side ball joint seated into the hole just fine however for some reason the passenger side is just off enough that I can't get it to seat. It's at an angle where it's tough to seat it well. Did you struggle with this at all? Any tips on how to maneuver the hub closer to the tie rod? I've been turning the wheel every which way, loosening the bolts to the control arm so there's play, and even tried to seat the ball joint first and then bolt in the control arm which did not work at all. Any help you can offer would be appreciated greatly
I put a breaker bar, swivel and short extention. Positioned it so I laid under passenger frontside and used my foot to break it loose. You're right abt it being on there!
@@brumby8491 you can reuse them, only grease the ball joint if it has a grease point, other wise just rust penetrant to loosen things up before you take it apart.
Wrenches will not get to the bolt facing the front, its in a cove making it hard to access with hand tools. Torque gun with hammer action is a must or air tools. I needed a swivel on the one side as the transaxle pan is right in front of it.
Well, I went old school and got them out. I used old man strength. I did break one of the smaller bolt heads (behind the brakes) and had a tough time getting the bolt out. But, I would have saved at least an hour with a pneumatic drill.
Usually doesn’t have grease, sorry I should’ve mentioned that originally! And every oil change is normal for a shop to do a courtesy greasing of all lube points!
@@Natesautorepairs Just finished this job and I think you are half right. There is a kind of cage that captures the rearward inside mount and when you slide the ear on the control arm into the cage with the suspension at full droop it causes the bushing to rotate slightly. When the car is on the ground it then rotates back to a position where the bushing is not under stress. When installing the part it doesn't matter if the two vertical bolts are loose or tight. But on the forward bushing the bolt is horizontal so that one should not be tightened until the suspension is loaded at the neutral position. I did this by jacking under the control arm until the car just lifted off the jack stand.
@@jwh475ezc loading up the car just puts stress on the bolt you’re tightening, doing it with no weight on it makes the bolt go in smoothly and straight. As long as you torque the bolts you’re not going to run into any issues. I’ve been in the business for 10 years and have never seen anyone load the car on the control arm to tighten that bolt lol.
@@Natesautorepairs It's not about the bolts, it's about the rubber bushings. Think about it...the outer sleeve of the bushing is attached by press fit to the control arm and the inner sleeve attaches to the frame by a long bolt. If the bolt is tightened with the car up in the air the control arm will rotate when the car is lowered to the ground. This means that the rubber will twist and then be under stress when the car is in its normal position and that is not good. If you lower the car first and then tighten the bolt the rubber will not be stressed. The spring takes the load, not the bolt.That's all I'm going to say, if you don't believe me then I suggest you find a good alignment shop and ask them what they do.
@@jwh475ezc you’re talking to someone with a decade of experience brother, you’re gonna lose 10 times out of 10. I’ve done about 400 alignments in my time and don’t need to call an alignment shop 😂. The sleeve rotates inside of the bushing, therefore you do not have to load the car down to tighten the bolt. Don’t believe me? Maybe Call an alignment shop and ask them.
I believe it had a bad ball joint, it’s been a while since I took this video though so not 100% sure if it was that or a bushing! Thank you for the comment
@@manonamission3379 hey sorry this was so long ago I’m not sure about torque, usually if you run them in with a gun (not enough to break them) you shouldn’t run into any issues
I'm surprised yall don't have a set of crows feet..pushing bolts through and aligning holes are the best use for them.. they sell a bar with a fork on the end for breaking joints apart tooo lol, cheap stuff available at Harbor freight
@@alexabercromby6010 crazy that you’re watching my video on how to do a simple control arm though? I’m pretty sure I make it a point to tell people to get the torque spec and torque it down but considering I’m at a high pace shop I don’t have time to get the torque spec for everyone in between making the videos.
@@alexabercromby6010 this was also one of my first videos, so was still figuring it out. But hey keep on hating it’ll just drive me to keep proving people like you wrong. Feel free to come back and watch any of my other videos since you obviously don’t know how to do a simple control arm.
@@Natesautorepairs hahaha relax buddy just messing with ya. It was a good repair man, i came to the video looking for the torque spec cause i couldnt get it on alldata mitchell or IATN. Keep up the good work and dont let silly comments on the internet get ya worked up
Best tutorial on CX-5 control arms on TH-cam. Thanks!
Glad to hear!
You make it look easy. Mine was a pain in the ass. The bolts didn't want to come out. I had to rig all my extensions and a strong arm.
This helped so much man thanks so much for the upload
A pickle fork works great to separate the ball joint from the control arm
Have a fork in my tool box for 50 years. Finally gonna use it
Great video.. is this job possible "at home" w the car on jack stands? I understand it would be difficult, just curious as to if it would even be possible. Thanks!
Yes definitely possible!
I did
Any tips for that front facing bolt? the bottom two 19mm bolts came out fairly easy with impact wrench but man front one is being a pain. I hit it with 3 rounds of break loose spray and even torched it a couple times. it is in there GOOD
If you have an impact I would say use that with the torch, make sure you get the nut cherry red where it screws into!
that woked!@@Natesautorepairs finally broke loose. Now, I have a new question haha. The driver side ball joint seated into the hole just fine however for some reason the passenger side is just off enough that I can't get it to seat. It's at an angle where it's tough to seat it well. Did you struggle with this at all? Any tips on how to maneuver the hub closer to the tie rod? I've been turning the wheel every which way, loosening the bolts to the control arm so there's play, and even tried to seat the ball joint first and then bolt in the control arm which did not work at all. Any help you can offer would be appreciated greatly
@@GetBusyLivin haha nice! You didn’t the axle apart did you? That’s the only thing I can think of that can hold you up.
I put a breaker bar, swivel and short extention. Positioned it so I laid under passenger frontside and used my foot to break it loose. You're right abt it being on there!
Nice video, just what I needed. Can I use the same bolts, or do I need new ones? Also anything needs to be lubricated?
@@brumby8491 you can reuse them, only grease the ball joint if it has a grease point, other wise just rust penetrant to loosen things up before you take it apart.
Thanks! What about torque force? Do you know which lbs each bolt should be set to?
@@brumby8491 not off hand I do not! I would say if you can’t find it no less than 75 no more than 100 is probably safe
Do you absolutely need the air compressor guns to get the bolts out or can you use old school wrenches etc.?
Wrenches will work just fine man! Might be a little hard to get loose but you’ll get it.
Wrenches will not get to the bolt facing the front, its in a cove making it hard to access with hand tools. Torque gun with hammer action is a must or air tools. I needed a swivel on the one side as the transaxle pan is right in front of it.
Well, I went old school and got them out. I used old man strength. I did break one of the smaller bolt heads (behind the brakes) and had a tough time getting the bolt out. But, I would have saved at least an hour with a pneumatic drill.
@@wjbslick67 nothing some old man strength can’t fix! Haha
Popeye arms and a can of spinach! Breaker bar for sure!
Can you replace just the ball joint or do you need to change the entire lower control arm? Since I read some ball joints are not pressable.
I’m pretty sure you have to do the whole thing but not 100% sure now haha
Usually the bushings stress and dry rot, hence reason to replace all at once.
Well done
Can u just replace the lower ball joint because I think mine is bad and it’s cheaper lol
I’m pretty sure you have to do the whole control arm haha
They sell just the ball joints@@Natesautorepairs
Why you change this arm? There is noise when turn wheel to the left or something loose clicking when you hit bumps
@@yournightmare9999 no it had a torn bushing. You should probably look over your whole suspension, could be a strut or sway bar link,
I see a grease point on there , did it have grease already ? How often do you need to add grease ?
Usually doesn’t have grease, sorry I should’ve mentioned that originally! And every oil change is normal for a shop to do a courtesy greasing of all lube points!
@@Natesautorepairs thanks man no worries , I appreciate the quick response
How much would it cost including paying mechanic???
No clue haha sorry! I only do the work I don’t make the pricing!
Good job Can you help me from where to get the suspension arm with valve for lubrication I am in Saudi Arabia
Shouldn't the bushings be under load (car and wheels on the ground) before tightening the mounting brackets?
Na that applies to struts mostly
@@Natesautorepairs Just finished this job and I think you are half right. There is a kind of cage that captures the rearward inside mount and when you slide the ear on the control arm into the cage with the suspension at full droop it causes the bushing to rotate slightly. When the car is on the ground it then rotates back to a position where the bushing is not under stress. When installing the part it doesn't matter if the two vertical bolts are loose or tight. But on the forward bushing the bolt is horizontal so that one should not be tightened until the suspension is loaded at the neutral position. I did this by jacking under the control arm until the car just lifted off the jack stand.
@@jwh475ezc loading up the car just puts stress on the bolt you’re tightening, doing it with no weight on it makes the bolt go in smoothly and straight. As long as you torque the bolts you’re not going to run into any issues. I’ve been in the business for 10 years and have never seen anyone load the car on the control arm to tighten that bolt lol.
@@Natesautorepairs It's not about the bolts, it's about the rubber bushings. Think about it...the outer sleeve of the bushing is attached by press fit to the control arm and the inner sleeve attaches to the frame by a long bolt. If the bolt is tightened with the car up in the air the control arm will rotate when the car is lowered to the ground. This means that the rubber will twist and then be under stress when the car is in its normal position and that is not good. If you lower the car first and then tighten the bolt the rubber will not be stressed. The spring takes the load, not the bolt.That's all I'm going to say, if you don't believe me then I suggest you find a good alignment shop and ask them what they do.
@@jwh475ezc you’re talking to someone with a decade of experience brother, you’re gonna lose 10 times out of 10. I’ve done about 400 alignments in my time and don’t need to call an alignment shop 😂. The sleeve rotates inside of the bushing, therefore you do not have to load the car down to tighten the bolt. Don’t believe me? Maybe Call an alignment shop and ask them.
do you need an alinement after or no??
Yes. Alignment is needed after.
I just done the exactly same thing on my Mazda six 2014 right and left lower control arm with ball joints each one 360 Canadian
Hey, Where did you purchase the parts? Do you have links? Definitely not Canadian Tire right?
Hi I have mazda 6 same thing with mine ,can you replace just the ball joint ?
I don’t believe so, pretty sure it’s just the whole arm but I could be wrong. My problem was the control arm bushing
on original mazda control arm you can't, but on aftermaket control arm it's possible
Great video. What was the problem with the control arm? Why did you replace it?
I believe it had a bad ball joint, it’s been a while since I took this video though so not 100% sure if it was that or a bushing! Thank you for the comment
Hi, nice video. Which torque is needed for the screws?
@@manonamission3379 hey sorry this was so long ago I’m not sure about torque, usually if you run them in with a gun (not enough to break them) you shouldn’t run into any issues
I'm surprised yall don't have a set of crows feet..pushing bolts through and aligning holes are the best use for them.. they sell a bar with a fork on the end for breaking joints apart tooo lol, cheap stuff available at Harbor freight
I do lol just didn’t need it for this one!
No torque specs, doesnt tighten the bushings under load. Doing it wrong for 10 years sounds like
@@alexabercromby6010 crazy that you’re watching my video on how to do a simple control arm though? I’m pretty sure I make it a point to tell people to get the torque spec and torque it down but considering I’m at a high pace shop I don’t have time to get the torque spec for everyone in between making the videos.
@@alexabercromby6010 this was also one of my first videos, so was still figuring it out. But hey keep on hating it’ll just drive me to keep proving people like you wrong. Feel free to come back and watch any of my other videos since you obviously don’t know how to do a simple control arm.
@@Natesautorepairs hahaha relax buddy just messing with ya. It was a good repair man, i came to the video looking for the torque spec cause i couldnt get it on alldata mitchell or IATN. Keep up the good work and dont let silly comments on the internet get ya worked up
@ oh you got me alright 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 appreciate it though
@@alexabercromby6010 playing with my heart now lmao