A blog at instructables reveal the hidden Analog joystick feature of the Zero Delay USB Encoder. Do a google search to find. TH-cam kills comments w/ links. Mode switches directional output between digital and analog. Joystick becomes a POV high-hat/D-pad and visa versa. 10:09 R1/R2 X-axis (Analog X - Roll), R3/R4 Y-axis (Analog Y - Pitch), R5/R6 Z-axis (Throttle), R7/R8 Z-Rotation (Rudder - Yaw). All analog inputs share a dual 10KΩ resistor voltage divider to center the inputs. J1 uses a 0Ω resistor to default input mode at boot, digital(high) pins, Analog(low) pot/resistors. J2 & J3 are other presets floating, unknown use.
Hello Olaf Wagner , maybe there is the possibility to go directly on D-pad mode instead of starting using Analog with the jumbers and lack of resistors. Actually i have to manually switch after. Very interesting!
I tried the turbo and auto fire in this no delay joystick and doesn't work, or I do not know how to operate this functionality! Can you try it for me please and tell me how to make them work? just auto fire and turbo? or maybe try them in a video tutorial if possible! Thanks
@@DennisKarlsson Нашли ли вы решение данной проблемы? Собрал руль для сим рейсинга на 16 кнопок и сталкнулся с проблемой, что нужно постоянно включать цифровой режим.
The red and green LED on PCB indicates the MODE, which can b e toggled with a momentary push button. I was just testing this board with Tekken 7, if we change the mode, the RED light turns to GREEN and the joystick works with TEKKEN 7 without any additional remapping software.
I have a Happ joystick which has 4 switches the wires connect to. I understand Sanwa joysticks just have a single connector that plugs into the board. How would I plug my Happ Joystick in? Do I plug it in where it says, "Up, Down, Left, Right?" Thank you and great video!
I want this board. I want to replace the electronics of a Interact SV-286 Digital Joystick that has an old game port to USB 1.1 adapter. All the switches, including the Hat switches are standard surface mount micro switches but with solder pins instead of connectors. This Joystick has like 20 switches in total, but I only really need like 11 or 12. I could use the ones I dont use now for the Auto Fire and Mode settings? However my concern is the UP, DN, RIGHT, LEFT ports. Will these 4 ports work in Windows and Linux as a standard 4-way Hat switch? Or I guess what I am asking is does this Game board CY-822A have a 4-way Hat switch function? I use the 4-way Hat switch for Left Strafe, Right Strafe, Jump and Crouch in all First Person Shooters. And would there be any benefits to converting this very old Game Port based USB 1.1 Joystick to a more modern USB 2.0 connection? I'm wondering if latency is truly reduced but I somehow doubt it. Thanks for the video.
So can I used the left right up down for any button ? I know it’s a silly question but I’m planning out a lot of stuff using two of these and would like to know for sure. Thank you 🙏
Any idea where i should look to learn how to wire and set 3 different switches that activate each other in sequence ? It's for American Truck Simulator, i'm trying to set an ignition key that activates a switch that activates the starter button for the ignition.
_Translator:_ I'm wondering. Can I combine two buttons, the *Select* and *Clear (Turbo/Auto)* buttons, and use Select to turn off Turbo? --- It does not work. By the way, it's very stupid that you need an extra button to turn off the Turbo/Auto.
Auto and clear work the same as k1-k12, shorted to +5V. Mode and Turbo are pulled-low (Gnd thru 1KΩ resistor) when shorted to MCU pin. Turbo(?->Lo) shares Clear(?->Hi) pin input. Mode(Hi->Lo) pin is by itself. Turbo & Clear pin are shared and is some 0-5V pre-state. Turbo & Mode run opposite to other keys(buttons).
I am trying to build pedals for sim racing, would a 10k resistor on the up / down sockets and the device on digital mode work to register the throttle and clutch as they should be ( not just 0 and 1)
This stick has been working fairly decently for me for my PC, but the only thing I don't like is the analog/digital which forces me to map it to a button. My stick only has 6y buttons (classic SF layout, with a select for coin, and a start for 1P) but I have to turn it to digital mode for it to work with my PC. Is there a way to default it to digital so I can disconnect the wire and plug it into one of the button inputs?
9:53 i got the same board today and was confused on the +5 but you explained it to me and now it makes me want to try to put a LED in it for my arcade cabinet i'm making thanks.
@samhillier4427 Jamma is common ground, Zero delay is common power. work on a coin mech with drop coin switch, otherwise relay or transistor inverter circuit to switch on different level.
So i can put a 0 to 1 input in this board and it will read like that. not just 0 or 1? Trying to build a panel with a analog joystick. and looking for a good board to try it out on.
I'm guessing they must all create different USB identities. But that's 4 times the cost and 4 USB connectors. If it's a fixed 4 player system there are dedicated boards to do that with one board and one USB connection, also they tend to have screw terminal blocks to attach the wires directly, which might be easier for that many wires.
you don't - Jamma is common ground, Zero delay is common power and both systems supply their own power - Jamma via game pcb and Zero delay as USB. A different era. it would require a large multipole switch selector. Use a plug harness.
Hello! Great presentation! You use this for mach3? I am trying to program it but no success. Program didnt recognize any key. How can solve problem? Thank you!
Is there one of these that has more than 12 button terminals?? I wanna make a double joystick arcade set up and cant seem to find a way to do so with only 12 buttons.
CY-1121 - dual joystick/10 buttons each side CY-2121 - LED dual joystick/10 buttons each side am-zon: SJ-JX Arcade 2 Player USB Encoder Look for single board two rows of k1-k10 with joystick connector, opposite to USB A plug. Comes in Happ or Sanwa wire harness sizes. a-sin B07RZJVPLY B07S3TZWV5
Olaf Wagner is there a software that will determine whether the input is active or inactive and can set when the switch is on to one button on the keyboard and when it is off its set to another
Any idea what the plug type is for the buttons? I'd like to create my own These are mode switches for the functions, so you only need a momentary switch on them, they will cleat if you hit the button again. No constant latching switch is required for these.
I would says No. Designed for Brooks Fighting Board Inputs are Hi -> Lo (Gnd). Zero Delay use common +5V, so, Lo -> Hi (+5V), There is no ground to run the Electronics by default and are inverse state for action. Logic would need to go thru an inverter for proper state. It is plug-No-play.
i have a question the buttons are they recognized as keyboard buttons or as totally new inputs what im asking is can u do macros whit the spare buttons
@@916521279 when my board arrive I'll try it, I think it needs Arduino to convert analog to digital and then define the right and the left in controller
I want a board that can use potentiometers I want a signal that gives an output between 1 and 0 I don't want a button for a joystick, i want an analog joystick Analog is important for setting throttle, or run speed
A TMNT cabinet is what I also want to make. Supposedly you can combine these to create a 4 player encoder, is this correct? If so, how do we connnect them all together? If not, are they just all single USB connections to the Rasberry Pie?
@@louie000007 I don't know of a way to connect the boards together but if you are using a Pi for your Cab it will recognise them as individual USB controllers just as if you plugged 4 gamepads into it. If you want spare usb ports for keyboard etc you can simply attach a self powered USB hub as long as you don't plug any combination of things into the hub that exceeds 1.2A (4 of these boards will draw next to nothing 0.75A combined at most)
Just bought one so I can convert an old Atari 2600 case with a PI into a retro game thing for old consoles. Probably will use the old PI1 I have as it has composite out. Will be wiring the connectors into atari 9 pin male joystick ports so I can use real Atari joysticks :)
Maybe those traces are for IF you have sufficient current coming from the USB line, so that you could effectively daisy chain from the +5V line, into another board of same or similar design? Many games can make use of multiple controller configurations, flight simulators come to my mind, where there maybe multiple directional joysticks and potentially a foot pedal or two or three possibly? Also, it is not altogether uncommon to find joystick buttons that have their own LEDs installed within a translucent housing. I have this same exact board, but I’ve spotted one difference and it is only on its screen print and not any different in layout or design. Where your board says +5v, +5v and OFF, mine says d3, d1, and d2. This is beneath the other portion where it’s printed, D1, D2, and D3 above those two LEDs, so I don’t think that it’s addressing those LEDs at all, but probably rather an indication of a ‘digital’ switch to possibly go in that position. Maybe it was planned that a button could serve as a ‘shift’ key, where combinations of shift with other buttons would potentially switch the joystick to serve temporarily as a ‘player two’, since some games could freeze while waiting for activity from a ‘player two’? Also I forget that this is mostly intended for people who wish to build a sort of arcade cabinet, and so the coin receivers and their associated operations could possibly be intended to use these switches. The other resistors are maybe for attempting to resolve any ‘bouncing’ effects resultant from long button presses? I seem to remember that circuits like this often need components to add a ‘de-bouncing’ effect. THANK YOU FOR SHARING THIS, I’ve found this helpful in understanding this board, and it’s always nice to have an insightful look at our electronic gear!
A blog at instructables reveal the hidden Analog joystick feature of the Zero Delay USB Encoder. Do a google search to find. TH-cam kills comments w/ links. Mode switches directional output between digital and analog. Joystick becomes a POV high-hat/D-pad and visa versa.
10:09 R1/R2 X-axis (Analog X - Roll), R3/R4 Y-axis (Analog Y - Pitch), R5/R6 Z-axis (Throttle), R7/R8 Z-Rotation (Rudder - Yaw). All analog inputs share a dual 10KΩ resistor voltage divider to center the inputs. J1 uses a 0Ω resistor to default input mode at boot, digital(high) pins, Analog(low) pot/resistors. J2 & J3 are other presets floating, unknown use.
You have no idea how useful this was to me. Thank you.
the red +5v ports @9:44 are for arcade buttons with 5v led
Thanks for going over this in such detail.
This video tells me exactly what I need! Thanks so much kind sir (*hats off*)
Hurray, just what I was looking for, just ordered one and couldn't find any documentation, good work!
Omg! This i ordered a couple of these and was so nervous to play with them. This video was so helpful!
Excellent straight to the point well done thank you
Resistor nodes can be modified for use of 20k potentiometers in analog mode, just cut inter-pairs and place the pots
care to explain further? which resistor nodes?, what "inter-pairs"?
Hello Olaf Wagner
, maybe there is the possibility to go directly on D-pad mode instead of starting using Analog with the jumbers and lack of resistors. Actually i have to manually switch after. Very interesting!
I tried the turbo and auto fire in this no delay joystick and doesn't work, or I do not know how to operate this functionality! Can you try it for me please and tell me how to make them work? just auto fire and turbo? or maybe try them in a video tutorial if possible! Thanks
Do you know how to change digital (POV) mode for default? So i dont have to put a mode button.
Could I run additional buttons off the up, down, left right headers to use this to build a 16 button button box for simracing?
Thanks for the guide.
Hi, you probably could using the software JoytoKey (for win 10) it converts joystick movement into a key press.
If you use the analog/digital switch to put
It into digital mode, you should be able to map them as buttons.
@@nocturnal6863 Is there a way to start the board in digital mode?
@@DennisKarlsson Нашли ли вы решение данной проблемы? Собрал руль для сим рейсинга на 16 кнопок и сталкнулся с проблемой, что нужно постоянно включать цифровой режим.
The red and green LED on PCB indicates the MODE, which can b e toggled with a momentary push button. I was just testing this board with Tekken 7, if we change the mode, the RED light turns to GREEN and the joystick works with TEKKEN 7 without any additional remapping software.
Can u show u build
I have a Happ joystick which has 4 switches the wires connect to. I understand Sanwa joysticks just have a single connector that plugs into the board. How would I plug my Happ Joystick in? Do I plug it in where it says, "Up, Down, Left, Right?" Thank you and great video!
I had what I figure must have been a power surge that fried my pi. After replacing it, I find that these boards (I have 2) no longer work either.
If I cut the wire on the usb 5v pin the board will be considered as disconnected right?
I want this board. I want to replace the electronics of a Interact SV-286 Digital Joystick that has an old game port to USB 1.1 adapter. All the switches, including the Hat switches are standard surface mount micro switches but with solder pins instead of connectors. This Joystick has like 20 switches in total, but I only really need like 11 or 12. I could use the ones I dont use now for the Auto Fire and Mode settings? However my concern is the UP, DN, RIGHT, LEFT ports. Will these 4 ports work in Windows and Linux as a standard 4-way Hat switch? Or I guess what I am asking is does this Game board CY-822A have a 4-way Hat switch function? I use the 4-way Hat switch for Left Strafe, Right Strafe, Jump and Crouch in all First Person Shooters. And would there be any benefits to converting this very old Game Port based USB 1.1 Joystick to a more modern USB 2.0 connection? I'm wondering if latency is truly reduced but I somehow doubt it. Thanks for the video.
So can I used the left right up down for any button ? I know it’s a silly question but I’m planning out a lot of stuff using two of these and would like to know for sure. Thank you 🙏
Any idea where i should look to learn how to wire and set 3 different switches that activate each other in sequence ? It's for American Truck Simulator, i'm trying to set an ignition key that activates a switch that activates the starter button for the ignition.
Am studio on TH-cam have guide on how to wire ignition box, both with key and buttons
_Translator:_
I'm wondering. Can I combine two buttons, the *Select* and *Clear (Turbo/Auto)* buttons, and use Select to turn off Turbo?
---
It does not work. By the way, it's very stupid that you need an extra button to turn off the Turbo/Auto.
Auto and clear work the same as k1-k12, shorted to +5V. Mode and Turbo are pulled-low (Gnd thru 1KΩ resistor) when shorted to MCU pin. Turbo(?->Lo) shares Clear(?->Hi) pin input. Mode(Hi->Lo) pin is by itself. Turbo & Clear pin are shared and is some 0-5V pre-state. Turbo & Mode run opposite to other keys(buttons).
I am trying to build pedals for sim racing, would a 10k resistor on the up / down sockets and the device on digital mode work to register the throttle and clutch as they should be ( not just 0 and 1)
This stick has been working fairly decently for me for my PC, but the only thing I don't like is the analog/digital which forces me to map it to a button. My stick only has 6y buttons (classic SF layout, with a select for coin, and a start for 1P) but I have to turn it to digital mode for it to work with my PC. Is there a way to default it to digital so I can disconnect the wire and plug it into one of the button inputs?
Have you found a solution to the problem of constantly switching to digital mode when turned on?
@@АлександрБ-н5н unfortunately, it is by design or the pcb. Only way is to get a different PCB… good thing these are cheap
@@samgao Thanks for the answer
@samgao Board default boots to analog, change J1 and it should boot to digital POV.
Una pregunta es compatible con Android la placa Zero delay ?
9:53 i got the same board today and was confused on the +5 but you explained it to me and now it makes me want to try to put a LED in it for my arcade cabinet i'm making thanks.
Great video.
Any idea what IC this board is using?
Thanks
Any idea about the resolution of the analog joystick? 8 bit / 10 bit / 12 bit ?
Hey Olaf, I'm trying to connect a coin acceptor to this usb encoder. I can't figure it out. Could you help me?
@samhillier4427 Jamma is common ground, Zero delay is common power. work on a coin mech with drop coin switch, otherwise relay or transistor inverter circuit to switch on different level.
So i can put a 0 to 1 input in this board and it will read like that. not just 0 or 1?
Trying to build a panel with a analog joystick. and looking for a good board to try it out on.
what about start, select and menu button
Supposedly you can combine these to create a 4 player encoder, is this correct? If so, how do we connnect them all together?
I'm guessing they must all create different USB identities. But that's 4 times the cost and 4 USB connectors. If it's a fixed 4 player system there are dedicated boards to do that with one board and one USB connection, also they tend to have screw terminal blocks to attach the wires directly, which might be easier for that many wires.
you would need four boards and button joystick sets. I the arcade setup they all tie into a central board that runs the game or games
May I know how to share the same joystick and buttons with JAMMA?
you don't - Jamma is common ground, Zero delay is common power and both systems supply their own power - Jamma via game pcb and Zero delay as USB. A different era. it would require a large multipole switch selector. Use a plug harness.
this is USB not Jamma, use a multipoll switch or a plug harness 8 pin for joy & 3 sw
What type of buttons do the fire mode buttons use? Is it momentary or latching?
Hello! Great presentation! You use this for mach3? I am trying to program it but no success. Program didnt recognize any key. How can solve problem?
Thank you!
Where is the start button located on this
k10 as labeled but you normally bond button usage to retroarch during setup; just be consistent
is there a way to permanently switch to digital or analog once its powered on?>
Short the switch by connecting the pins (clip one of the included connectors and connect the wires together)
@@danielrobertprice That does not work. It need to send the signal after it has been powered on, and then only one momentary connection.
how to reset which buttons press ?
hi great Video man!!
is there any posibility to assign an axis (not just 0 or 1 input) like for flying helicopters?
Anyone know exactly what Linux kernel driver module this uses please? Is it something relatively recent?
Hello. Thank you for helping us understand this.
Is it possible to connect this with a hc-05 (bluetooth board)?
Is there one of these that has more than 12 button terminals?? I wanna make a double joystick arcade set up and cant seem to find a way to do so with only 12 buttons.
CY-1121 - dual joystick/10 buttons each side
CY-2121 - LED dual joystick/10 buttons each side
am-zon: SJ-JX Arcade 2 Player USB Encoder
Look for single board two rows of k1-k10 with joystick connector, opposite to USB A plug. Comes in Happ or Sanwa wire harness sizes. a-sin B07RZJVPLY B07S3TZWV5
Whre the start button cable
Olaf Wagner is there a software that will determine whether the input is active or inactive and can set when the switch is on to one button on the keyboard and when it is off its set to another
joy2key
Does it work in ps4
Any idea what the plug type is for the buttons? I'd like to create my own These are mode switches for the functions, so you only need a momentary switch on them, they will cleat if you hit the button again. No constant latching switch is required for these.
Looks like 2-pin JST-XH
Saw video great work dont know if you managed find missing resistors r3-r8 think they was variable resistors throttle and brake,hope this helps
anyone know what IC this uses?
Can these be configured for keyboard inputs (awsd etc) rather than xinput? Thanks
No, unless J2 & J3 have an undocumented feature. Not a keyboard encoder.
Thanks for the video, does it support potentiometers by any chance (even one or two for X and Y)? Cheers
yes, read my instructables comment.
i'm trying to figure out what cables to buy, i bought 1.25mm JST plug cables but the connector is too small.
Looks like JST XH. I used them before for a not related project. 2mm from memory.
Jst Xh 2.5 - 2 Pin
is it possible to connect a gamerfinger optical joystick pcb for sanwa jlf joystick to it?
I would says No. Designed for Brooks Fighting Board Inputs are Hi -> Lo (Gnd). Zero Delay use common +5V, so, Lo -> Hi (+5V), There is no ground to run the Electronics by default and are inverse state for action. Logic would need to go thru an inverter for proper state. It is plug-No-play.
is it possible to connect a LED start button to the 5v
done did it, there two unpopulated +5v on board near k1-k3
mode button is necessary for games like tekken 7 because the game uses digital input otherwise the stick wont work
i have a question the buttons are they recognized as keyboard buttons or as totally new inputs what im asking is can u do macros whit the spare buttons
only recognized as a joystick
Hello, can i wire up extra buttons on the Mode, Turbo, Clear and Auto plugs/pins?
Yes
those this work on pc like i have tekken 7 on the pc and i want to build a cheap stick does this PCB work for this game?
As long your Game has support for Windows Joystick Devices it will.
Good video I used this board in a button box I built for ATS and ets2 for what it is it's good
would you mind sharing your button layout with me? and what functions they have in game?
I would like to see that too :)
@@mr.SorinZ th-cam.com/video/3nPFU8aF2lU/w-d-xo.html
Cheers buddy. Helped me out heaps
Is that possible to connect a potentiometer on this board?
Lucas Lcs I tried but it inputs always 2 buttons at the same time , for example , I rotate to the right and he reads right then left
@@916521279 when my board arrive I'll try it, I think it needs Arduino to convert analog to digital and then define the right and the left in controller
I’ve the same problem, the potentiometer read 2 button at the same time, i must connect potentiometer only with an arduino boards?
Thank you for the help.
Hello !
Does this board work on windows 10 ?
yes
Yes, absolutely. I have build an instrument pannel for MSFS 2020 and it works great !
d3 probably turbo indicator light.
Thanks for the great video! it helps me alot with configure my joysticks :)
I want a board that can use potentiometers
I want a signal that gives an output between 1 and 0
I don't want a button for a joystick, i want an analog joystick
Analog is important for setting throttle, or run speed
read my instructables comment.
Awesome work !
Does anyone know how to ad vibrate using this arcade encoder ??
just move your leg up and down.
USB input device only
im running 4 of these on raspberry picade in a turtles cab my oldest son was asking if it will work on a ps4 have you ever tried it on ps4
Howard Malone how do you config? I can't get past thumb inputs, this is at retropie startup, it detects generic as controller
trbcop Rrrr when I first did my pi I did key board first and joy sticks later
A TMNT cabinet is what I also want to make. Supposedly you can combine these to create a 4 player encoder, is this correct? If so, how do we connnect them all together? If not, are they just all single USB connections to the Rasberry Pie?
@@louie000007
I don't know of a way to connect the boards together but if you are using a Pi for your Cab it will recognise them as individual USB controllers just as if you plugged 4 gamepads into it. If you want spare usb ports for keyboard etc you can simply attach a self powered USB hub as long as you don't plug any combination of things into the hub that exceeds 1.2A (4 of these boards will draw next to nothing 0.75A combined at most)
Just bought one so I can convert an old Atari 2600 case with a PI into a retro game thing for old consoles. Probably will use the old PI1 I have as it has composite out. Will be wiring the connectors into atari 9 pin male joystick ports so I can use real Atari joysticks :)
Please show me how you did it
Would this work on a android box?
Negativo
Maybe those traces are for IF you have sufficient current coming from the USB line, so that you could effectively daisy chain from the +5V line, into another board of same or similar design? Many games can make use of multiple controller configurations, flight simulators come to my mind, where there maybe multiple directional joysticks and potentially a foot pedal or two or three possibly? Also, it is not altogether uncommon to find joystick buttons that have their own LEDs installed within a translucent housing. I have this same exact board, but I’ve spotted one difference and it is only on its screen print and not any different in layout or design. Where your board says +5v, +5v and OFF, mine says d3, d1, and d2. This is beneath the other portion where it’s printed, D1, D2, and D3 above those two LEDs, so I don’t think that it’s addressing those LEDs at all, but probably rather an indication of a ‘digital’ switch to possibly go in that position. Maybe it was planned that a button could serve as a ‘shift’ key, where combinations of shift with other buttons would potentially switch the joystick to serve temporarily as a ‘player two’, since some games could freeze while waiting for activity from a ‘player two’? Also I forget that this is mostly intended for people who wish to build a sort of arcade cabinet, and so the coin receivers and their associated operations could possibly be intended to use these switches. The other resistors are maybe for attempting to resolve any ‘bouncing’ effects resultant from long button presses? I seem to remember that circuits like this often need components to add a ‘de-bouncing’ effect. THANK YOU FOR SHARING THIS, I’ve found this helpful in understanding this board, and it’s always nice to have an insightful look at our electronic gear!
verry good explained. Thx
Thank alot for guide much respect
I have this board , I will try the switch and tonight if you like ,a raspberry pi use's 5 volts
Funziona con xb360/ps3?
KANG LOBSTAH si infatti ho notato.su un cab ci ho messo ps3.ma per ps4 o one c e qualcosa?
Sir please do more reviews and also in put lags. Thanks alot
the default analog/digital mode is needed for gale such as Tekken 7 it wont recognize the default mode
can i use this board for PS4??
Thanks!
Tnx bru 👍
Wow i think im in over my head 😢
for ets2
bernie sanders is teaching us about arcade stick
I-pac2 is much better. High quality and only one board needed for both Joysticks and buttons.
i set up a old joystick for MAME games with this PCB, so i can set it up easy i used
html5gamepad.com/
Is it possible to add a multi position rotary to this board? So a button press is done to the right and a different button pressed to the left?
Are the connections on the right for momentary buttons or for switches that toggle on/off persistently?
Does it work on ps4
Is there any button connection for l3/r3..?
not really but you could bind as such - x, a, b, y, l1 ,r1, l2, r2, select, coin, k11(l3), k12(r3)