I hope this help brings a new perspective to fitting for you 😀 What's been your biggest struggle with fitting? (Leave a comment as I might just make a video about it!) If your ready to learn how to make all the pattern alterations you need, that's what I do in Vintage Sewing School, join at www.vintagesewingschool.com/ And I'll show you how!
If a shirt fits my bust, it can be up to 10" too wide in the shoulders (particularly with unisex tshirts). And the armscye hangs well, well below my armpits, leaving me feeling sweaty and gross.
How do you go about adjusting a garment to fit someone with a smaller bust/cup size? I know patterns will always be too large in that one area but am unsure how to go about the necessary changes to make the finished garments fit.
Thanks for another great video. Fitting trousers I find an absolute nightmare and it puts me off making them! I've just made some mccalls paperbag trousers, second time using the pattern and my body seems to have changed? The crotch sits way too low and I don't know how to fix it, so they have been shoved in a corner until I can figure it out! Anything about fitting trousers will be very welcome from me 🙂
Instead of comparing my sewing efforts to that of a professional, initially my comparisions will be to store bought. Commercial clothing does not fit me well. If my efforts fit better, look better, suit better, that is a good enough initially. As I gain skills, then my goals will shift.
I initially began making all of my clothes at age 13, because I wanted to wear pants and a decent quality (Sears and JC Penney) cost $25 back then ($160 in today's money.) I could make a pair for under $5. Plus, I knew that off the rack was too long in the straddle, too big in the waist and too short in the leg. By knowing these 3 things upfront, I nailed the fit on my first pair of trousers (the zipper OTOH left a LOT to be desired!) If you can figure out what causes you problems with RTW it's a great starting point for fitting.
I understand your perspective. It's a great way to not get overwhelmed or frustrated, but personally, I appreciate the professional perspective because I learn / am exposed to things I probably wouldn't have a clue about otherwise.
Thank you for taking it from "the problems with your body" to "how to make this garment fit this body". I struggle with fit issues because I have no idea what proper fitting feels like, I've got muscles and fat in weird places according to patterns, and nothing unaltered ever fits quite right unless it's stretchy or generally a loose fit. Or men's pants, those generally fit me well off the rack. Also trying to do it all by myself without someone to pin things is challenging, so I'm still working on my darted bodice block. I would love to see specifically how one thing at a time affects the other things, like how does that bust adjustment actually affect the back and front lengths and the neckline gaping, before doing the other adjustments.
A professor once told her class, "The best seamstresses rip. This allowed me to relax and realize there is no "perfect" every step of the way, perfection is achieved through the processes. Thank you for sharing your experiences and insights.
Great video! Fitting is a pain especially when you are by yourself. I would like more of these fitting comparison video. Well, anything on fitting and reading the wrinkles to figure out where to start first.
I would love a video on diagnosing fit problems without a dress form. I’m currently having to take videos of myself spinning around in my work in progress to pause and see what the problem is, but while I can see puckering or pulling or whatever, I don’t know why it’s doing that!
I get so frustrated having to adjust every pattern from scratch every time. I finally took the time to create my own bodice block so I'm hoping to learn more about creating my own patterns from that to cut down on the time spent in adjustments. I only have a couple of hours a week to spend on sewing, so I want to streamline the process as much as possible. I'd love to see more from you on bodice blocks and pattern creation!
This is so true as it seems you can teach others the how-to, but so much comes from a psychological viewpoint and if a new sewist feels daunted by a process, that's when a video like this (encouraging) is so valuable. Thank you so much!
I’m so grateful to you for your tutorials & the time you take to make them. I’m a 77 year old beginner & really need every tut you’ve ever made. Bless you.
When I was making my corset I quickly learned that I needed to ignore "fitting for body issues" (which meant drafting the paper pattern to your measurements) and just make it a size larger and fit straight on the body. I never realised that there are fitting instructions for the home sewist and am now glad that I never came across them. How depressing are those terms?! As it stands, I understand enough now that I don't need to make massive fitting changes because I can do them at the pattern level (go me! 😂). Tweaks will always be needed until your toile is fitted correctly. My only challenge is actually fitting straight on my own body as opposed to my darling mannequin, Cuddles. I can't reach behind myself to pin 😂 Toile, toile and toile again!
Great video. Very helpful. As a 70 year old woman I struggle with fitting a prominent abdomen and how to fit pants. I just had my first success doing one adjustment in small Amounts
This is soooo timely!! I just made my first proper/fitted/structured dress and felt a little frustrated that I was having to make up lots of adjustments here and there that weren’t mentioned in the pattern. I felt like I was bodging it! Even though the end result was very tidy and wearable I felt like the pattern had failed me… now I understand that the pattern is only the first step and those “bodges” ARE sewing!!
A pattern is just a tool, a starting point. I think when we start sewing we have this idea that a pattern is perfect and if we only pick the right size it should fit us. Instead, we need to see patterns as a starting point that we then adjust to make it fit our bodies. It wasn't designed with your specific body in mind, so it makes sense that it doesn't fit you out of the envelope. You sound like you stumbled into the right approach without even knowing it. I hope you keep having sewing successes and that you do your adjustments in the future with more confidence!
My biggest struggle with fitting is knowing how things should look! I have never had anything store bought fit properly so it can be different to figure out a standard.
I know what you mean Hannah! This might make a good video, thanks for the suggestion! I can say that that it can fit however you want it to fit, it's good when you think is good 😉
I'm finding it's sort of a process, after a few mockups, I I make a garment I think is close enough, then wear it a bunch of times and discover something else that would help, then do that NEXT time I make the garment... repeat... repeat... repeat...
Go to your library and get a pattern fitting book with photographs of real people wearing ill fitting clothes and the fixed clothes. They point out what is a fitting issue and how to solve that single issue. I highly stress the part about the book having photographs. Illustrations are great and all, but sometimes the illustration doesn’t cut it when you don’t know what you’re supposed to be looking for.
This video totally resonated with me. Last week I cut out the bodice of a new pattern and made a muslin. It was dreadful! 😱 It gaped in some places and pulled in other places, it just looked shocking, and I got despondent. I left it on Doris the dress form, and made something else. Yesterday I went back to it, pinned the gaping bits, undid the seams where it was pulling and figured out how much I needed to let them out. None of the adjustments was more than 1/4 inch. I cut out new tissue pattern pieces and made a second muslin, and it seemed to fit Doris, so I tried it on myself ... and it looks great! 😊 I was amazed how much of a difference 1/4 inch here and there could make. The fashion fabric has been washed and pressed, and this afternoon I am going to cut it out 🎉🥂 As you say, lots of little tweaks are often what it takes to get things to fit right. Thanks, Evelyn! 🙏
I love that you touched on what's most important to me: your body is never the wrong shape or size for a garment, the garment is the wrong fit for you!
Hi Evelyn! Thank you for another great video!! I’m just restarting my sewing journey after many years of being away from it. I guess I didn’t realize that patterns are more like a starting point and you make adjustments accordingly. I have serve scoliosis and find it hard clothes premade to fit well. So I’ve decided to start making my wardrobe. At least now I understand that it’s expected to make adjustments and I’m an exception to the rule.
My first garment I made was a Renaissance ballgown in high school. I remember my teacher warning me that I chose a very hard final project for myself but it was the dream and reason I wanted to sew clothes. I got guidance after graduating from my neighbor who was a very experienced sewist, and at the time I was over the moon with the final piece and so proud of myself. But looking back at it, I always felt the sleeves were tight on the armpit and such a pain to sew that it’s made me avoid sleeves whenever possible 😅 I’ve only sewn one dress with sleeves and added sleeves to one other dress, but the majority of clothes I make are skirts. I think with your videos and fresh eyes on fittings and patterns I’m finally ready to tackle sleeves again!
My biggest takeaway from your video is that we should not skip making a muslin when trying new patterns. Is it so easy to skip to want to skip that step and get to the finish results right away.
I think I audibly exhaled when I watched your video. a ha...now this makes sense! I never could make the connection between the terms used (swayed back etc) and then how to translate that practically to fitting. I sooo appreciate this. I recently made a blouse and its too big in the body and snug around the bicep. I think its made me feel really disheartened about my sewing skills. when really I now need to focus on my fitting skills. I'd love a video on fitting sleeves. I struggle fitting sleeves as my biceps are too big from all my gym work! I don't know if I need to give more room under the armpit and then how to add more room to the sleeve to accommodate the bicep, then how to make sure the sleeve fits back on to the bodice.
I wish I had seen this video when I made a dress that was a size too small. I got discouraged and ended up cutting it up and making cleaning cloths. They are darn pretty ones too. Lol
Hi Evelyn thanks for that video. Of course we tape in extra paper when altering our paper patterns but I'd never thought about slashing and pinning in extra FABRIC when fitting. I'm sure that will come in very useful in the future.
I’d love to know more about pattern fitting for those things that are coming up in every thing I sew. My shoulders are at least two sizes smaller than my bust and three sizes smaller than my waist - so are my hips. With very loose fitting dresses I can wing it, but with more fit I’m often stumped when having to decide where to start and end the wild gradations I need.
I love this video. Ever since you told in an earlier video that a pattern never fits and needs alternations it changed my perspective. I always compare a pattern with my basic bodice pattern. First check, back length second check front length and bust hight. Since I learned to draft my patterns myself I much more understand how a purchased pattern is constructed and what I need to do to make it fit. Thanks so much I am a fan of your videos
I'm working on my third garment ever, and it's the first one for which I'm attempting alterations. How does she always know exactly what I'm thinking?! The way someone as skilled as Evelyn knows how to speak towards all different levels never ceases to amaze me! What a treasure. Thinking of you and your health journey Evelyn - sending you all my well wishes. ❤
I love your channel and I always learn - no kidding! I come back again and again because you have such great info. But in this case, I think I have to disagree on many poins. Getting the fit right can be hard, that's a given. But the stock methods available make it really so much easier to get it right. Those methods that are one-size-fits-all are actually really helpful (I think you mentioned that) even when they're not the one thing that will fix every issue. When you said that you'd slash around the bustline, that's exactly what a small/large bust adjustment is. Taking these fit problems and fixing them one at a time - seeing the result through the muslin if that fixed it - then addressing the next issue using a stock method really does help the home sew-er. I think the "experts" who are writing books and giving us those methods just give those adjustments specific names so the non-experienced (or even experienced) sew-er can understand it more easily. I totally agree that in the garment industry you don't put those names to what you're doing mainly because you don't have to. You can pinch and pull and pin and mark and problem solved. But those named, stock adjustments are helpful to those who don't know what's causing the problem. Even the newer Big 4 patterns are beginning to address issues like cup sizes. Indie patternmakers are known for giving a whole wealth of ways to fit the garments they design. As you said, always making a muslin is the key. Also key is having a reasonable expectation of the way something is going to fit on one's body. It's hard to accept, but the truth is that not every body shape can wear certain styles and have them look as perfect as a magazine would have us believe. For example, I made a pair of pants recently that fit but just didn't feel right because the designer doesn't design for my specific body type. It didn't matter if they fit with the adjustments I made, they just never looked right or felt good. And that's ok, because it showed me that I need to work with a pattern that has been designed for my body type. And honestly, once you've discovered the common problem that you always face in a pattern, you know what adjustments to make and they really do work. The main thing is adjusting that perspective that you should be able to fit something that really doesn't suit your body type. Probably the best thing that's happened in fashion is our perspective of what looks good on us. It's ok if you don't look like a model. It's fine if you have a waistline or if your waistline is 10" bigger than your hips. It's ok to have a large bustline. These things really can be addressed by several of the methods that the sewing guru's offer, write books about, and do videos on. TH-cam is extremely helpful but isn't always the best resource. But indie patterns are fantastic for addressing fit issues. The books many of us mention on TH-cam can be found at the library and Amazon and local bookstores and even friends. So while it's not the way people in the fashion industry would do it, those labels for simple methods that address fit make it so much more accessible to home sew-ers. I've been sewing for 50+ years and like you, I still learn every day. Always learning! Fit may vary one garment to the next, but those stock methods help me every time.
Thank you for your very informative videos on understanding paper pattern and how to understand how you can adjust and understanding how you can make our garments fit better. Please can you do a video on yokes, necklines and how you can avoid them being baggy across the back of your neck
Thank you Evelyn. It’s only over the past few months that the penny has dropped - ‘fitting’ is a whole set of skills in itself! My sewing skills have improved a lot this year but I’m now feeling stuck. As I can’t access any face to face lessons on fitting, then I really think that Vintage sewing school is my next move. In the meantime though, a video on how to identify fitting issues would be a great start. Sometimes I look at a toile and don’t know where to start/what order to approach possible changes.
I feel the same! I am thinking Vintage Sewing School is going to be my Christmas present this year! Even if it is from me to me. I am really new at this but I learn so much from Evelyn.
Hello and great chat! I had a busy but fun day in my sewing room and now I get to sit with my hand quilting and watch your video! I'm so grateful for your time to make this. I hope you have a delightful week ahead! Thank you for sharing!
Okay Evelyn, I just have to say this. You look so young!! How on earth do you have all of this experience and yet look so very young? How old were you when you started? 12? Your skin is just beautiful. Now that that's been said, thanks again for such a great video. I always learn from you!
I LOVE your body positive perspective! I've been on a "mom bod" journey since I started sewing and fitting did add anxiety to how I view my body. I've had thoughts that maybe my body is just so out of norm because all the woven dresses I've made for myself have fit issues. I'm very excited for your future videos about this. My usual issues with patterns are: often ending up choosing the wrong size. I usually mash sizes because my waist is on the bigger size than my bust. For example I usually (as per pattern suggestion) just mash a size 10 bust with a size 12 waist. I get so scared to make it too small so I choose one size bigger so I have more room to adjust later. Oftentimes it ends up looking 2 sizes bigger, even though I already chose the size according to the finished measurements! It's so frustrating! so I often just sew for my kids because it's much more enjoyable from start to finish- no crying over I'll fitting garments. Also, I don't have the budget for toile fabric so usually I just use the lining piece as toile and do the experimenting on it lol. OMG I could go on forever about fitting frustrations...so sorry 😅
Great tip about putting extra fabric in with the slash-and-spread to double-check. It seems obvious after you said it, but I wouldn’t have gotten there myself. Also, THANK YOU for pointing out that the adjustment terms are more for cataloging than anything else. It does sort of mess with me to think of myself as having “forward shoulders,” like maybe it’s something I should fix about myself. It’s good to be reminded that it’s just a label for a common alteration.
This is why I gave up on patterns for myself, and just do draping now, creating my own patterns. My body shape requires so many adjustments on a standard pattern, that it’s just so much easier to start with draping muslin on my dress form. Nice explanation though. I like how you distinguish between terms of body issues and actual garment construction changes. I also used to make wedding dresses from scratch for clients. Funny thing is, I sort of think of it like making a cover for a boat or car. 😂 Like you said, we are just adjusting the fabric to follow the shape of the body. Btw, love your style and clear instructions. Thanks for the great content on your TH-cam channel. ❤️
This is SO helpful! I make an adjustment and then another one seems to pop up! Now I know it’s multiple things. I love your perspective to looking at it as a whole instead of body parts. I’m constantly struggling to adjust necklines for my petite body and high bust which then seem to give me a gaping neckline. Every pattern seems to be about two inches too low for my bust.
I am really, really new to sewing. I am loving it and can sew for my granddaughter (she is 2) really well! Haha! I am making my first garment for myself, I am loving all I have learned from you about pattern fitting etc. What I struggle with, I am a visual learner. I would love to see you sew and show us how to fix those issues while sewing it. Such as, you showed how to slash the shoulder, so now what do I do with that? How do I sew it? How do I sew the neckline and bust and waist to correct the fit? How do I take fabric out and not ruin it? That has been my biggest fear! I am doing a toile first even though it’s a simple romper I want to learn how to adjust and fit before I make the real deal. I learned that from you! So thank you for all you do! It truly helps and encourages me to keep at it!
I’m finally getting a little better at fitting and more comfortable enough to actually wear my garments out in public. Pants have been quite challenging but I am getting better but still have a way to go. I’m 68 with body issues so there is the good & the bad. Fitting issues can be an issue but good thing if I goof a little around the top part of pants a wee bit my top covers it up.
This was so helpful. Thank you for taking the time to explain it like this. I feel like I can keep going and make the changes as I see them. I was beginning to feel quite daunted by some of the adjustments I needed to do. Thank you!!
Thank you for this. Honestly I’ve got a very full bust, an hourglass figure with extra minutes, and a very swayed back. It’s hard to figure it all out when beginning. It doesn’t help that I’m a perfectionist. So doing one thing at a time to try to figure it all isn’t an easy thing.
Perfectionist takes dedication! You have to remember to tell that part of you to shut up regularly. You also have to remember that people looking will see the garment as a whole they don't notice the little things that are the first thing you see when you look at your creations. It took me years to overcome this. I finally realized that I would never ever say to friends what I said to myself! You can still write your self notes about trying it a different way next time but nicely!
My mother is a perfectionist and it prevented her from accomplishing much over the years. What she did do was wonderful, but I can count her sewing projects on my fingers and toes - with digits leftover. Simply attack each project with the attitude to do your best, then as you make a mistake, you'll know to do better the next time. If I had listened to my mother, I would have never learned to sew. I consciously chose to ignore her completely, except when I needed to understand a specific task or solve a specific problem.
Another excellent tutorial !!!! Thank you kindly💝🌹 These mysterious adjustment s are indeed what discourages me when making my projects. I personally have a difficulty with my back length in relationship with my front bodice as I have 45 in front and 38 for my back so my fitting projects are usually a great challenge, I wonder if you could sometime make a vídeo on this issue? This would be so wonderful for me. 🌻🌻🌻🌻🌻🌻💖
Hi I have recently started sewing my own clothes mainly dresses I come from a background of quilting and crafting and mostly alterations everytime I buy a pair of paints or tops I have to fixing them somehow to fit me better but I am loving the making of my own dresses at the moment and the first two I made I had to make a few mockups I just couln't get the fit right but did not give up and since I made them about a month ago I have lost a little bit of weight and now I have to take them nearly all apart and readjust them to fit me better lol its all part of the fun of sewing. Your videos have helped me a lot thank you
What great timing! Even though I learned to sew many years ago, the actual fitting process was something I didn't pursue. Now I'm that I've been on that journey for a while and am in the midst of fitting multiple muslins of different patterns for my daughters, I have been feeling overwhelmed! Thank you for the encouragement.
Very informative ...You have successfully changed my perspective 😌 a very big thank you 😊 just what I needed at this point of my sewing adventures !!!!! Keeping it simple 😌 👌 😉 👏 💯
Great video! I finally bit the bullet and drafted a basic bodice pattern (from my 1959 home sewing book) and it fit perfectly! 😍 And my measurements are all over the place (my back is 3 sizes smaller than my front, large hips smaller waist, large bust, you name it) I'll probably be using my commercial patterns only for inspiration from now on 😁
I hear you, looking up the sizing on a free Mood pattern, my hips are a size 8, my bust is a size 12 and my waist is 14-16 depending on whether it's a dress or something with a waistband, so yeah, bodice blocks and then using patterns for inspiration.
@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 I tried to draft a basic t-shirt (from a different book) but I ended up with such an improbable shape that I ended up draping it... I made a dolman top and drew the armscye and neckline on it.... It took two wearable muslins but I'm happy with the result.
This was helpful for me in looking at fitting in a less problem-centric way. I think I’ll re-watch a few times to reinforce changing my perspective. Thanks so much!
I love this video. The thing that I struggle with the most is not being able to fit a garment properly on myself and pin it straight where it needs to be pinned, because I'd have to twist and turn to get the pins in and then they get placed crooked. I don't have a dress form, nor room for one. My Mom used to help me when I was a teen, but now I'm out on my own and I know my husband isn't going to help. LOL.
I'm upcycling a men's waistcoat to a "me" waistcoat, with a 2" armhole gape and a "small" addition for a wider hip. I know the dart for the armhole should not go as far as the bust apex, but it's necessary so I've done it a number of times to get it just right. Thanks for your help with my projects.
Gosh I really needed this vide a couple of years ago when I first started learning how to fit!! I. Getting there with fitting bodices and skirts but sleeves are still giving me trouble! I’d love a video on sleeves!
This is a super helpful video! I am not much for following patterns and have been a bit scared of the fitting and not knowing how to approach it. I've been wondering how I would know which kind of adjustment I need, but now realise it is much more straight forward than that. I could probably learn much by just trying different things where I see a fit issue. I can't wait to try!
I took away that I should be more aware of fitting on myself and others. Frankly, I have been derelect in this procedure. Even getting the seam correct on your shoulders can take weight off of you. (drop sleeves are a whole new problem) If I could suggest something as an older sewer and instructor. You talk too fast because you want to cover a lot of material. That I understand but we can only absorb so much new data at a time. This video I take as an introductory class of many fitting issues - maybe 15 or so ( necklines, shoulders, busts, sway back, rounded back, larger biceps, dart relocation, and so forth.) Thank goodness you are such a clever, creative person who naturally inspires others. Good luck and thanks!
This really reminded me of the Mantua style of dress fitting that was popular in the 18th(?) century. Apparently the dressmakers would drape the fabric over their clients and pin it to make a dress perfectly fitted to that particular body.
I have spent all day making and adjusting a toile from a dress pattern that came free in a magazine. I’m so frustrated. I’ve made the dress once and it’s shapeless but ok with a belt around it. With my second fabric I wanted to make a more refined fit. I have just learnt how to do a bust adjustment to make that bigger so that is better. But that has resulted in more fabric around the neck which now gapes. The back neck gapes too. So now I need to do some more adjustments! You’ve spurred me on though!
That actually helped a lot. Often u find myself trying to identify via terminology, when really i just need to be practical about what needs to be done, because tbh the terminology just confused me sometimes LOL
Another video that would be great is how to make a mock up before making your finished project. I have heard a lot of channels talk about sewing a mock up first before cutting up the nice fabric. But how involved is sewing a mock up? Does it have all the top stitching base stitching and so on or is it just basic putting pieces together? Putting it on pinning taking notes and doing all the things on the nice fabric? How do you take what you figured out on the mock up and applying it to the final project? I love your videos they are great.
This has been very helpful. I'm making pants at the moment. I always have diagonal folds in the back of my legs and I just can't work out how to remove them without leaving me no room to move.
I would be interested in a video with odd adjustments. Maybe for an ostomy bag (medical bag that connects to a hole in the abdomen and sits near the waistband), or severe scoliosis.
I would like to sew my own garments because of fabric and color. And of course it should fit nicely but I don't want to spend too much time on it because store bought garments have often been looking nice after shortening arms and legs. Which means for me that perfection is not necessary. So I'm trying but I'm not sad if it doesn't work out. Love from Germany.
Thanks for that info. I am relatively new to your channel. Have you showed how to fix such adjustments in your previous videos? It would be great to see how you would fix where you have pinned this garment to the correct size with your new adjustments. Which in all honesty, I thought this was leading to, but sadly it didn't follow up to completion. Could that be another video coming?
Thank you for the video's on the pattern fitting, just got back into sewing. With the idea of making instead of buying. I have gained weight due to my disability, was a size 12 now I'm 16/18. But I want to still express my vintage style and make good quality clothes, from good fabric that will last. As you said the pattern is only a starting point. I have some understanding, but not enough really. But at least we have the internet now. Going into your back content to see if I can improve. Is getting a dressmakers dummy a wise investment? I put a small budget aside each month for sewing supplies and fabric, which can cost a lot. Especially if you are wanting a full skirt dress in lady McElroy fabric. Love the elephant and chameleon print and the anaconda and flowers. But loving the videos and thank you for tackling this subject that you need to know, to get the best out of any pattern that you buy. With kind regards and take care Sharon from Yorkshire UK xx
Great video. What I am having issues with are pants, specifically I am high waisted with large hips and a smaller waist that is not in proportion to patterns. If it fits the waist I can get them over the hips and if it fits the hips the waist falls down. If you could do a video on fitting that issue it would be great. Thank you.
Hope you don't mind me chiming in. I had a slightly opposite issue in my youth, very short rise with wide hips and tiny waist (13" difference waist to hip). My first thought is that you may need to use a longer zipper for full height trousers. (Where the waist band is a straight strip of fabric) A 9" zipper would allow the trouser top to open more fully for your hips. The zipper could also be trimmed to something shorter if 9" were too long. Also, on top of a short rise, I had a very short torso (I added 4" to the leg length) which meant that if I used a trouser pattern with a straight waist band, it would make my bottom look that much bigger visually - way too much attention to those hips! I began making all of my trousers with a shaped waistband which visually decreases the volume of the body under the waist. The top of a shaped waistband sits at the waistline, whereas the bottom of a straight waistband sits at the waistline. Try a longer zipper and see if that doesn't make things easier. Also, I'm curious to know if you find jeans easier to get in and out of than pants/trousers.
@@cliftonmcnalley8469 I have only found 1 store that actually carries pants that fit me so for the past umpteen years that is where I have gotten them. I find jeans a no go or have until they started making them with spandex in them so the hips stretch otherwise there is a huge gap at the back of the waistband when I sit. When I was young and had little money I made my own clothes as fabric was cheaper than readymade and (this will age me)I was lucky and hip huggers were all the rage so had no issues, waist was not included in them and dresses were empire waist and could flare for the hips. Then styles changed to shirtwaist dresses so I went to skirts, dresses were out because the waist was always in the wrong place but as I started working in a library a skirt got in the way when working on lower shelves. Shorts I just did elastic waists but they are not as comfy I find.
@@marilynbook4211 Oddly enough, hip huggers fit me best too, but I'm short rise, short thick waist (the waistband on jeans is literally touching both my hip bone and my bottom rib at the same time), and narrow hips. Avoiding the waist entirely solved a lot of issues, and half the time I could just wear them like they weren't hip huggers on me! So thank you for that reminder, I might go looking for a pattern for those... a pattern older than many of my friends :D
@@marilynbook4211 That actually all makes sense. I'm female BTW (not my device). We're probably in the same age bracket - tail end of the baby boomers - teen years in the 70's? Or you could be 20 years younger - those hiphuggers made a comeback in the 90's and fabric stores still existed. Have you tried a 9" zipper? It will allow the waist to open up more so you should be able to get them on easier. At different times in history men's trousers have had 9" zips. Also, if you have a pair of trousers you aren't nuts about, just cut them open below the zip and try slipping them on and off to judge the length of the opening. With the gaping waistband in the back when you sit problem, I suspect there will be other issues to address ("smileys" under the bum?), but one thing at a time.😉
Too advanced for me but it gave me something to think about as I learn. I've just started really making my own clothing from patterns and had a passing thought of fit. Maybe it will just be a pin to fit finished product thing? I do that with my clothes already. I make the sleeves the right lenth to look good on my body, round the hem, or nip and tuck here and there. Don't think I'm there yet on altering a pattern as I'm making a garment.
Encouraging and supportive video to complete projects. I am struggling with a pair of store bought, mostly straight shorts that I am trying to figure out how to reduce the seam flair along the exterior hem. I think it flares an inch or so, too much from the leg. So, it pokes out away from the leg than stay straight or follow the angle along the leg. It’s a detail I don’t like. It would be cool to have a video address that so we can adjust what we have and like, instead of buying more or wishing the tailoring fairies and mice will make it fabulous. Thanks for the videos!
would love to see a video on how one fit adjustment leads to many more and how to do it correctly. my common fit issue is short and sloped shoulders so whenever i fix that i have trouble with how to adjust the armscye and then the sleeves later, and dont really know if my seams are sitting in the right places after adjustments
Debbie this is exactly what I do in Vintage Sewing School, if your interested you can take a look here www.vintagesewingschool.com/ or email me if you have any questions 🙂
A small shift in perspective can be a huge help. It's not "I didn't make this right" our "my proportions are all wrong" but rather "the pattern does not properly address fitting me in this area." Then instead of castigating oneself or feeling like having failed somehow, it all becomes an exercise in addressing a weakness of mass-market pattern limitations. Over time patterns will emerge in the pattern brands, too. Brand X never quite realizes how different waist and hip circumference are, but Brand Y always seems to assume women have extremely wide shoulders. And Brand Z - let's just say their drafters don't really understand pants patterns!
I love these perspectives and discussions. I’ve been sewing for over 40yrs and only in the last 3ish years have I been able to put labels to pattern changes that I do and better my skills at doing them. I recently made a 1960s dress and the curved French dart coming up under the bust is sitting too high and for the life of me I can’t find the confidence to adjust the pattern without getting impatient. I’ve never done this before!!! Is it as simple as moving the end point down so I don’t upset the shape it offers to the waist?
Since I don't have a mannequin, (I stitch only for myself) I wear my garment several times along my sewing journey.I find this easier rather than doing the fitting adjustments once the entire garment is stitched.
Thank you for this! I'm "relearning" how to fit my body after losing a significant amount of weight and garments now needing completely different things than before and this was helpful because I honestly had given up in frustration. Question: as a professional do you "start" with a particular area since everything sort of impacts everything else (at least in the shoulder/neckline/bust area)?
Thanks Evelyn! Would love to see you address if there is a preferential order in which to alter fit. I've heard that the length and shoulders should be made to fit first? Would love to see your experiences around that.
I have so many fails because my body keeps changing as I age and many patterns are best on young bodies. I'm always struggling with looking fat frumpy.
Until this video, I had not thought about my back being the cause of my fitting problems. I'll have to get someone to help me check my back measurement (because I cant do that myself). My mother developed a big hump on her back in her senior years. I may be developing one myself. Thank you for this video.
Please do a video on exactly how to transfer toile adjustments to your pattern. I understand how to take in or add to make the mock-up fit better but where to from there?
Great info but another thing to learn 😳 sewing really is a journey but I enjoy it so much. One question though, how do you put the alterations from your toile to paper? Do you unpick the stitches and re-copy the pieces on paper? Thanks for all the great videos, I'm glad I stumbled onto your channel. Brigitte from 🇨🇦
So, with the gaping neck and the pinches you made to fix that, would you add a dart there, or would you take that material out some other way, like altering the neckline on the pattern?
I'm unusually small on top (so need a smaller cup size and often gape at the armholes on sleeveless garments. A good bra has helped a lot but knowing how to make myself a great fitting basic top would be amazing! In addition, I am middle-aged so my tummy protrudes after having separation from four births. Sigh...I have no idea how to fix for that when sewing!
Do you already have a video talking about the order if the pattern alterations? I am short-waisted with a full bust , narrow waist and sloping shoulders. I’m guessing starting with the shoulders, move on to the bust and finally adjusting the back waist length and waist. Is this a reasonable order?
My takeaway is that I really need an accurate dress form to make alterations for myself. I want to do better but I think I’ve hit my max with the tools I have.
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I hope this help brings a new perspective to fitting for you 😀 What's been your biggest struggle with fitting? (Leave a comment as I might just make a video about it!)
If your ready to learn how to make all the pattern alterations you need, that's what I do in Vintage Sewing School, join at www.vintagesewingschool.com/
And I'll show you how!
It's mostly the neckline and shoulders with me as my shoulders are narrow. ✂️🧵😊💕
I'd love to see you talk more about narrowing shoulders with sleeves. Daughter has narrow shoulders which has been a new challenge for me
If a shirt fits my bust, it can be up to 10" too wide in the shoulders (particularly with unisex tshirts). And the armscye hangs well, well below my armpits, leaving me feeling sweaty and gross.
How do you go about adjusting a garment to fit someone with a smaller bust/cup size?
I know patterns will always be too large in that one area but am unsure how to go about the necessary changes to make the finished garments fit.
Thanks for another great video. Fitting trousers I find an absolute nightmare and it puts me off making them! I've just made some mccalls paperbag trousers, second time using the pattern and my body seems to have changed? The crotch sits way too low and I don't know how to fix it, so they have been shoved in a corner until I can figure it out! Anything about fitting trousers will be very welcome from me 🙂
Can I just say that I love that Dolly is wearing her pearls! She's a classy lady! ☺️
Thank you for suggesting slashing and pinning. Determining where the fitting issue or how to correct it is the problem. 😊
Instead of comparing my sewing efforts to that of a professional, initially my comparisions will be to store bought. Commercial clothing does not fit me well. If my efforts fit better, look better, suit better, that is a good enough initially. As I gain skills, then my goals will shift.
Same here. If I like it about 80% it is a win because store bought is usually about 60%!
I initially began making all of my clothes at age 13, because I wanted to wear pants and a decent quality (Sears and JC Penney) cost $25 back then ($160 in today's money.) I could make a pair for under $5. Plus, I knew that off the rack was too long in the straddle, too big in the waist and too short in the leg. By knowing these 3 things upfront, I nailed the fit on my first pair of trousers (the zipper OTOH left a LOT to be desired!)
If you can figure out what causes you problems with RTW it's a great starting point for fitting.
I love this! Great perspective!
I understand your perspective. It's a great way to not get overwhelmed or frustrated, but personally, I appreciate the professional perspective because I learn / am exposed to things I probably wouldn't have a clue about otherwise.
You talk too much without showing any alternations.
Thank you for taking it from "the problems with your body" to "how to make this garment fit this body". I struggle with fit issues because I have no idea what proper fitting feels like, I've got muscles and fat in weird places according to patterns, and nothing unaltered ever fits quite right unless it's stretchy or generally a loose fit. Or men's pants, those generally fit me well off the rack. Also trying to do it all by myself without someone to pin things is challenging, so I'm still working on my darted bodice block. I would love to see specifically how one thing at a time affects the other things, like how does that bust adjustment actually affect the back and front lengths and the neckline gaping, before doing the other adjustments.
A professor once told her class, "The best seamstresses rip. This allowed me to relax and realize there is no "perfect" every step of the way, perfection is achieved through the processes. Thank you for sharing your experiences and insights.
Great video! Fitting is a pain especially when you are by yourself. I would like more of these fitting comparison video. Well, anything on fitting and reading the wrinkles to figure out where to start first.
I would love a video on diagnosing fit problems without a dress form. I’m currently having to take videos of myself spinning around in my work in progress to pause and see what the problem is, but while I can see puckering or pulling or whatever, I don’t know why it’s doing that!
YES!
I get so frustrated having to adjust every pattern from scratch every time. I finally took the time to create my own bodice block so I'm hoping to learn more about creating my own patterns from that to cut down on the time spent in adjustments. I only have a couple of hours a week to spend on sewing, so I want to streamline the process as much as possible. I'd love to see more from you on bodice blocks and pattern creation!
This is so true as it seems you can teach others the how-to, but so much comes from a psychological viewpoint and if a new sewist feels daunted by a process, that's when a video like this (encouraging) is so valuable. Thank you so much!
Thank You, for making the process a normal journey. Not a journey of “I just don’t get it. “. I am very grateful. I will try again. 😊
I'm glad to hear that! 😊
Thank you so much for moving the narrative away from 'so much is wrong' to 'all this is normal'. What a turn around in thought!
I’m so grateful to you for your tutorials & the time you take to make them. I’m a 77 year old beginner & really need every tut you’ve ever made. Bless you.
When I was making my corset I quickly learned that I needed to ignore "fitting for body issues" (which meant drafting the paper pattern to your measurements) and just make it a size larger and fit straight on the body. I never realised that there are fitting instructions for the home sewist and am now glad that I never came across them. How depressing are those terms?!
As it stands, I understand enough now that I don't need to make massive fitting changes because I can do them at the pattern level (go me! 😂). Tweaks will always be needed until your toile is fitted correctly. My only challenge is actually fitting straight on my own body as opposed to my darling mannequin, Cuddles. I can't reach behind myself to pin 😂
Toile, toile and toile again!
Great video. Very helpful. As a 70 year old woman I struggle with fitting a prominent abdomen and how to fit pants. I just had my first success doing one adjustment in small Amounts
That's excellent news Claudia! The best way it to always start small and go from there!
This is soooo timely!! I just made my first proper/fitted/structured dress and felt a little frustrated that I was having to make up lots of adjustments here and there that weren’t mentioned in the pattern. I felt like I was bodging it! Even though the end result was very tidy and wearable I felt like the pattern had failed me… now I understand that the pattern is only the first step and those “bodges” ARE sewing!!
Love this comment! Bodges are sewing...Im going to start calling it bodging from now on 😂
A pattern is just a tool, a starting point. I think when we start sewing we have this idea that a pattern is perfect and if we only pick the right size it should fit us. Instead, we need to see patterns as a starting point that we then adjust to make it fit our bodies. It wasn't designed with your specific body in mind, so it makes sense that it doesn't fit you out of the envelope. You sound like you stumbled into the right approach without even knowing it. I hope you keep having sewing successes and that you do your adjustments in the future with more confidence!
My biggest struggle with fitting is knowing how things should look! I have never had anything store bought fit properly so it can be different to figure out a standard.
I know what you mean Hannah! This might make a good video, thanks for the suggestion! I can say that that it can fit however you want it to fit, it's good when you think is good 😉
I'm finding it's sort of a process, after a few mockups, I I make a garment I think is close enough, then wear it a bunch of times and discover something else that would help, then do that NEXT time I make the garment... repeat... repeat... repeat...
Go to your library and get a pattern fitting book with photographs of real people wearing ill fitting clothes and the fixed clothes. They point out what is a fitting issue and how to solve that single issue. I highly stress the part about the book having photographs. Illustrations are great and all, but sometimes the illustration doesn’t cut it when you don’t know what you’re supposed to be looking for.
@@hotjanuary You are so right! Real people and photographs make a huge difference. And, if you find someone who looks like you, all the better.
This video totally resonated with me. Last week I cut out the bodice of a new pattern and made a muslin. It was dreadful! 😱 It gaped in some places and pulled in other places, it just looked shocking, and I got despondent. I left it on Doris the dress form, and made something else.
Yesterday I went back to it, pinned the gaping bits, undid the seams where it was pulling and figured out how much I needed to let them out. None of the adjustments was more than 1/4 inch. I cut out new tissue pattern pieces and made a second muslin, and it seemed to fit Doris, so I tried it on myself ... and it looks great! 😊 I was amazed how much of a difference 1/4 inch here and there could make. The fashion fabric has been washed and pressed, and this afternoon I am going to cut it out 🎉🥂 As you say, lots of little tweaks are often what it takes to get things to fit right. Thanks, Evelyn! 🙏
This confirms I need my own personalised dressform. Learning to fit my clothes is my new project. Thank you for this informative video.
I love that you touched on what's most important to me: your body is never the wrong shape or size for a garment, the garment is the wrong fit for you!
Thank you for this video! I've just sewed from patterns but never learned how to do alterations. I'm trying to learn :)
Hi Evelyn! Thank you for another great video!! I’m just restarting my sewing journey after many years of being away from it. I guess I didn’t realize that patterns are more like a starting point and you make adjustments accordingly. I have serve scoliosis and find it hard clothes premade to fit well. So I’ve decided to start making my wardrobe. At least now I understand that it’s expected to make adjustments and I’m an exception to the rule.
My first garment I made was a Renaissance ballgown in high school. I remember my teacher warning me that I chose a very hard final project for myself but it was the dream and reason I wanted to sew clothes. I got guidance after graduating from my neighbor who was a very experienced sewist, and at the time I was over the moon with the final piece and so proud of myself. But looking back at it, I always felt the sleeves were tight on the armpit and such a pain to sew that it’s made me avoid sleeves whenever possible 😅 I’ve only sewn one dress with sleeves and added sleeves to one other dress, but the majority of clothes I make are skirts. I think with your videos and fresh eyes on fittings and patterns I’m finally ready to tackle sleeves again!
My biggest takeaway from your video is that we should not skip making a muslin when trying new patterns. Is it so easy to skip to want to skip that step and get to the finish results right away.
I think I audibly exhaled when I watched your video. a ha...now this makes sense! I never could make the connection between the terms used (swayed back etc) and then how to translate that practically to fitting. I sooo appreciate this. I recently made a blouse and its too big in the body and snug around the bicep. I think its made me feel really disheartened about my sewing skills. when really I now need to focus on my fitting skills. I'd love a video on fitting sleeves. I struggle fitting sleeves as my biceps are too big from all my gym work! I don't know if I need to give more room under the armpit and then how to add more room to the sleeve to accommodate the bicep, then how to make sure the sleeve fits back on to the bodice.
I wish I had seen this video when I made a dress that was a size too small. I got discouraged and ended up cutting it up and making cleaning cloths. They are darn pretty ones too. Lol
Hi Evelyn thanks for that video. Of course we tape in extra paper when altering our paper patterns but I'd never thought about slashing and pinning in extra FABRIC when fitting. I'm sure that will come in very useful in the future.
🤯 mind blow right! I love moments like this that just make you say 'of course!' I hope it helps you with your next fitting 😃
I’d love to know more about pattern fitting for those things that are coming up in every thing I sew. My shoulders are at least two sizes smaller than my bust and three sizes smaller than my waist - so are my hips. With very loose fitting dresses I can wing it, but with more fit I’m often stumped when having to decide where to start and end the wild gradations I need.
I love this video. Ever since you told in an earlier video that a pattern never fits and needs alternations it changed my perspective. I always compare a pattern with my basic bodice pattern. First check, back length second check front length and bust hight.
Since I learned to draft my patterns myself I much more understand how a purchased pattern is constructed and what I need to do to make it fit. Thanks so much I am a fan of your videos
I'm working on my third garment ever, and it's the first one for which I'm attempting alterations. How does she always know exactly what I'm thinking?! The way someone as skilled as Evelyn knows how to speak towards all different levels never ceases to amaze me! What a treasure. Thinking of you and your health journey Evelyn - sending you all my well wishes. ❤
Thanks Evelyn - my take away from this is to keep sewing and practising, and for important work respect and love your tailor and dressmaker :)
Brilliant! We're not adjusting the body, we're adjusting the garment. 👍
Thank you! One of your best teaching videos!
I love your channel and I always learn - no kidding! I come back again and again because you have such great info. But in this case, I think I have to disagree on many poins.
Getting the fit right can be hard, that's a given. But the stock methods available make it really so much easier to get it right. Those methods that are one-size-fits-all are actually really helpful (I think you mentioned that) even when they're not the one thing that will fix every issue. When you said that you'd slash around the bustline, that's exactly what a small/large bust adjustment is. Taking these fit problems and fixing them one at a time - seeing the result through the muslin if that fixed it - then addressing the next issue using a stock method really does help the home sew-er. I think the "experts" who are writing books and giving us those methods just give those adjustments specific names so the non-experienced (or even experienced) sew-er can understand it more easily. I totally agree that in the garment industry you don't put those names to what you're doing mainly because you don't have to. You can pinch and pull and pin and mark and problem solved. But those named, stock adjustments are helpful to those who don't know what's causing the problem. Even the newer Big 4 patterns are beginning to address issues like cup sizes. Indie patternmakers are known for giving a whole wealth of ways to fit the garments they design.
As you said, always making a muslin is the key. Also key is having a reasonable expectation of the way something is going to fit on one's body. It's hard to accept, but the truth is that not every body shape can wear certain styles and have them look as perfect as a magazine would have us believe. For example, I made a pair of pants recently that fit but just didn't feel right because the designer doesn't design for my specific body type. It didn't matter if they fit with the adjustments I made, they just never looked right or felt good. And that's ok, because it showed me that I need to work with a pattern that has been designed for my body type. And honestly, once you've discovered the common problem that you always face in a pattern, you know what adjustments to make and they really do work. The main thing is adjusting that perspective that you should be able to fit something that really doesn't suit your body type.
Probably the best thing that's happened in fashion is our perspective of what looks good on us. It's ok if you don't look like a model. It's fine if you have a waistline or if your waistline is 10" bigger than your hips. It's ok to have a large bustline. These things really can be addressed by several of the methods that the sewing guru's offer, write books about, and do videos on. TH-cam is extremely helpful but isn't always the best resource. But indie patterns are fantastic for addressing fit issues. The books many of us mention on TH-cam can be found at the library and Amazon and local bookstores and even friends. So while it's not the way people in the fashion industry would do it, those labels for simple methods that address fit make it so much more accessible to home sew-ers. I've been sewing for 50+ years and like you, I still learn every day. Always learning! Fit may vary one garment to the next, but those stock methods help me every time.
My biggest struggle is fitting by myself. However, I hope to find a sewing buddy soon.
Thank you this was an eye opener and not as hard as when you read it.
Thank you for your very informative videos on understanding paper pattern and how to understand how you can adjust and understanding how you can make our garments fit better. Please can you do a video on yokes, necklines and how you can avoid them being baggy across the back of your neck
Oh thank you so much! I often feel like a have failed, or don’t have the talent to sew. This is so helpfull! Greetz from the Netherlands!
Thank you Evelyn. It’s only over the past few months that the penny has dropped - ‘fitting’ is a whole set of skills in itself! My sewing skills have improved a lot this year but I’m now feeling stuck. As I can’t access any face to face lessons on fitting, then I really think that Vintage sewing school is my next move. In the meantime though, a video on how to identify fitting issues would be a great start. Sometimes I look at a toile and don’t know where to start/what order to approach possible changes.
I feel the same! I am thinking Vintage Sewing School is going to be my Christmas present this year! Even if it is from me to me. I am really new at this but I learn so much from Evelyn.
larger, soft belly/ waist. that is my issue right now. love how you tells us the topic from start to finish
Hello and great chat! I had a busy but fun day in my sewing room and now I get to sit with my hand quilting and watch your video! I'm so grateful for your time to make this. I hope you have a delightful week ahead! Thank you for sharing!
Okay Evelyn, I just have to say this. You look so young!! How on earth do you have all of this experience and yet look so very young? How old were you when you started? 12? Your skin is just beautiful.
Now that that's been said, thanks again for such a great video. I always learn from you!
Close, I was 14 when I started sewing! 😄
I LOVE your body positive perspective! I've been on a "mom bod" journey since I started sewing and fitting did add anxiety to how I view my body. I've had thoughts that maybe my body is just so out of norm because all the woven dresses I've made for myself have fit issues.
I'm very excited for your future videos about this.
My usual issues with patterns are: often ending up choosing the wrong size. I usually mash sizes because my waist is on the bigger size than my bust. For example I usually (as per pattern suggestion) just mash a size 10 bust with a size 12 waist. I get so scared to make it too small so I choose one size bigger so I have more room to adjust later. Oftentimes it ends up looking 2 sizes bigger, even though I already chose the size according to the finished measurements! It's so frustrating! so I often just sew for my kids because it's much more enjoyable from start to finish- no crying over I'll fitting garments.
Also, I don't have the budget for toile fabric so usually I just use the lining piece as toile and do the experimenting on it lol.
OMG I could go on forever about fitting frustrations...so sorry 😅
Look for bedsheets at garage sales or thrift stores; they are the best sources for toile fabric (and sometimes for actual garment fabric).
Thank you although, I haven't reach the alterations steps yet. This made it easier to understand.
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you Evelyn. Much appreciate all the videos you put out for us. Onya Mate. xxx
Great tip about putting extra fabric in with the slash-and-spread to double-check. It seems obvious after you said it, but I wouldn’t have gotten there myself.
Also, THANK YOU for pointing out that the adjustment terms are more for cataloging than anything else. It does sort of mess with me to think of myself as having “forward shoulders,” like maybe it’s something I should fix about myself. It’s good to be reminded that it’s just a label for a common alteration.
This is why I gave up on patterns for myself, and just do draping now, creating my own patterns. My body shape requires so many adjustments on a standard pattern, that it’s just so much easier to start with draping muslin on my dress form. Nice explanation though. I like how you distinguish between terms of body issues and actual garment construction changes. I also used to make wedding dresses from scratch for clients. Funny thing is, I sort of think of it like making a cover for a boat or car. 😂 Like you said, we are just adjusting the fabric to follow the shape of the body.
Btw, love your style and clear instructions. Thanks for the great content on your TH-cam channel. ❤️
This is SO helpful! I make an adjustment and then another one seems to pop up! Now I know it’s multiple things. I love your perspective to looking at it as a whole instead of body parts. I’m constantly struggling to adjust necklines for my petite body and high bust which then seem to give me a gaping neckline. Every pattern seems to be about two inches too low for my bust.
I am really, really new to sewing. I am loving it and can sew for my granddaughter (she is 2) really well! Haha! I am making my first garment for myself, I am loving all I have learned from you about pattern fitting etc. What I struggle with, I am a visual learner. I would love to see you sew and show us how to fix those issues while sewing it. Such as, you showed how to slash the shoulder, so now what do I do with that? How do I sew it? How do I sew the neckline and bust and waist to correct the fit? How do I take fabric out and not ruin it? That has been my biggest fear! I am doing a toile first even though it’s a simple romper I want to learn how to adjust and fit before I make the real deal. I learned that from you! So thank you for all you do! It truly helps and encourages me to keep at it!
I’m finally getting a little better at fitting and more comfortable enough to actually wear my garments out in public. Pants have been quite challenging but I am getting better but still have a way to go. I’m 68 with body issues so there is the good & the bad. Fitting issues can be an issue but good thing if I goof a little around the top part of pants a wee bit my top covers it up.
This was so helpful. Thank you for taking the time to explain it like this. I feel like I can keep going and make the changes as I see them. I was beginning to feel quite daunted by some of the adjustments I needed to do.
Thank you!!
Thank you for this. Honestly I’ve got a very full bust, an hourglass figure with extra minutes, and a very swayed back. It’s hard to figure it all out when beginning. It doesn’t help that I’m a perfectionist. So doing one thing at a time to try to figure it all isn’t an easy thing.
Perfectionist takes dedication! You have to remember to tell that part of you to shut up regularly. You also have to remember that people looking will see the garment as a whole they don't notice the little things that are the first thing you see when you look at your creations. It took me years to overcome this. I finally realized that I would never ever say to friends what I said to myself! You can still write your self notes about trying it a different way next time but nicely!
My mother is a perfectionist and it prevented her from accomplishing much over the years. What she did do was wonderful, but I can count her sewing projects on my fingers and toes - with digits leftover.
Simply attack each project with the attitude to do your best, then as you make a mistake, you'll know to do better the next time. If I had listened to my mother, I would have never learned to sew. I consciously chose to ignore her completely, except when I needed to understand a specific task or solve a specific problem.
Give your self patience, you'll get there ❤️
Thanks y’all. I’ve been trying to give myself grace and work on simple things while trying to figure out the harder ones.
You made me chuckle...thanks...Hourglass figure with extra minutes..just love that.
Another excellent tutorial !!!! Thank you kindly💝🌹 These mysterious adjustment s are indeed what discourages me when making my projects. I personally have a difficulty with my back length in relationship with my front bodice as I have 45 in front and 38 for my back so my fitting projects are usually a great challenge, I wonder if you could sometime make a vídeo on this issue? This would be so wonderful for me. 🌻🌻🌻🌻🌻🌻💖
Hi I have recently started sewing my own clothes mainly dresses I come from a background of quilting and crafting and mostly alterations everytime I buy a pair of paints or tops I have to fixing them somehow to fit me better but I am loving the making of my own dresses at the moment and the first two I made I had to make a few mockups I just couln't get the fit right but did not give up and since I made them about a month ago I have lost a little bit of weight and now I have to take them nearly all apart and readjust them to fit me better lol its all part of the fun of sewing. Your videos have helped me a lot thank you
What great timing! Even though I learned to sew many years ago, the actual fitting process was something I didn't pursue. Now I'm that I've been on that journey for a while and am in the midst of fitting multiple muslins of different patterns for my daughters, I have been feeling overwhelmed! Thank you for the encouragement.
Very informative ...You have successfully changed my perspective 😌 a very big thank you 😊 just what I needed at this point of my sewing adventures !!!!! Keeping it simple 😌 👌 😉 👏 💯
Great video! I finally bit the bullet and drafted a basic bodice pattern (from my 1959 home sewing book) and it fit perfectly! 😍
And my measurements are all over the place (my back is 3 sizes smaller than my front, large hips smaller waist, large bust, you name it) I'll probably be using my commercial patterns only for inspiration from now on 😁
Great job! 😃😃
I hear you, looking up the sizing on a free Mood pattern, my hips are a size 8, my bust is a size 12 and my waist is 14-16 depending on whether it's a dress or something with a waistband, so yeah, bodice blocks and then using patterns for inspiration.
@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 I tried to draft a basic t-shirt (from a different book) but I ended up with such an improbable shape that I ended up draping it... I made a dolman top and drew the armscye and neckline on it.... It took two wearable muslins but I'm happy with the result.
This was helpful for me in looking at fitting in a less problem-centric way. I think I’ll re-watch a few times to reinforce changing my perspective. Thanks so much!
I love this video. The thing that I struggle with the most is not being able to fit a garment properly on myself and pin it straight where it needs to be pinned, because I'd have to twist and turn to get the pins in and then they get placed crooked. I don't have a dress form, nor room for one. My Mom used to help me when I was a teen, but now I'm out on my own and I know my husband isn't going to help. LOL.
I'm upcycling a men's waistcoat to a "me" waistcoat, with a 2" armhole gape and a "small" addition for a wider hip. I know the dart for the armhole should not go as far as the bust apex, but it's necessary so I've done it a number of times to get it just right. Thanks for your help with my projects.
Gosh I really needed this vide a couple of years ago when I first started learning how to fit!! I. Getting there with fitting bodices and skirts but sleeves are still giving me trouble! I’d love a video on sleeves!
My struggle is how to fit MYSELF - especially at the back when I can't see what I'm doing.
Sheelagh I actually have a video on this search for 'how to to fit yourself' on my channel 🙂
This is a super helpful video! I am not much for following patterns and have been a bit scared of the fitting and not knowing how to approach it. I've been wondering how I would know which kind of adjustment I need, but now realise it is much more straight forward than that. I could probably learn much by just trying different things where I see a fit issue. I can't wait to try!
You've nailed it Camilla! Take this attitude to your fitting and you'll work it out!
Thank you for this! Very useful.
I took away that I should be more aware of fitting on myself and others. Frankly, I have been derelect in this procedure. Even getting the seam correct on your shoulders can take weight off of you. (drop sleeves are a whole new problem) If I could suggest something as an older sewer and instructor. You talk too fast because you want to cover a lot of material. That I understand but we can only absorb so much new data at a time. This video I take as an introductory class of many fitting issues - maybe 15 or so ( necklines, shoulders, busts, sway back, rounded back, larger biceps, dart relocation, and so forth.) Thank goodness you are such a clever, creative person who naturally inspires others. Good luck and thanks!
This really reminded me of the Mantua style of dress fitting that was popular in the 18th(?) century. Apparently the dressmakers would drape the fabric over their clients and pin it to make a dress perfectly fitted to that particular body.
I have spent all day making and adjusting a toile from a dress pattern that came free in a magazine. I’m so frustrated. I’ve made the dress once and it’s shapeless but ok with a belt around it. With my second fabric I wanted to make a more refined fit. I have just learnt how to do a bust adjustment to make that bigger so that is better. But that has resulted in more fabric around the neck which now gapes. The back neck gapes too. So now I need to do some more adjustments! You’ve spurred me on though!
That actually helped a lot. Often u find myself trying to identify via terminology, when really i just need to be practical about what needs to be done, because tbh the terminology just confused me sometimes LOL
Another video that would be great is how to make a mock up before making your finished project. I have heard a lot of channels talk about sewing a mock up first before cutting up the nice fabric. But how involved is sewing a mock up? Does it have all the top stitching base stitching and so on or is it just basic putting pieces together? Putting it on pinning taking notes and doing all the things on the nice fabric? How do you take what you figured out on the mock up and applying it to the final project? I love your videos they are great.
This has been very helpful. I'm making pants at the moment. I always have diagonal folds in the back of my legs and I just can't work out how to remove them without leaving me no room to move.
Take a look through these videos on Pants that Fit. They helped me a lot.
th-cam.com/play/PLrMFNt3KK918iCf6FadnNAZpkmVymkd5f.html
I would be interested in a video with odd adjustments. Maybe for an ostomy bag (medical bag that connects to a hole in the abdomen and sits near the waistband), or severe scoliosis.
I would like to sew my own garments because of fabric and color. And of course it should fit nicely but I don't want to spend too much time on it because store bought garments have often been looking nice after shortening arms and legs. Which means for me that perfection is not necessary. So I'm trying but I'm not sad if it doesn't work out. Love from Germany.
Thanks for that info. I am relatively new to your channel.
Have you showed how to fix such adjustments in your previous videos? It would be great to see how you would fix where you have pinned this garment to the correct size with your new adjustments. Which in all honesty, I thought this was leading to, but sadly it didn't follow up to completion. Could that be another video coming?
Thank you for the video's on the pattern fitting, just got back into sewing. With the idea of making instead of buying. I have gained weight due to my disability, was a size 12 now I'm 16/18. But I want to still express my vintage style and make good quality clothes, from good fabric that will last.
As you said the pattern is only a starting point. I have some understanding, but not enough really. But at least we have the internet now. Going into your back content to see if I can improve.
Is getting a dressmakers dummy a wise investment? I put a small budget aside each month for sewing supplies and fabric, which can cost a lot. Especially if you are wanting a full skirt dress in lady McElroy fabric. Love the elephant and chameleon print and the anaconda and flowers. But loving the videos and thank you for tackling this subject that you need to know, to get the best out of any pattern that you buy. With kind regards and take care Sharon from Yorkshire UK xx
As always, your information is invaluable. Do you have a video on using a dress form?
Great video. What I am having issues with are pants, specifically I am high waisted with large hips and a smaller waist that is not in proportion to patterns. If it fits the waist I can get them over the hips and if it fits the hips the waist falls down. If you could do a video on fitting that issue it would be great. Thank you.
Hope you don't mind me chiming in. I had a slightly opposite issue in my youth, very short rise with wide hips and tiny waist (13" difference waist to hip).
My first thought is that you may need to use a longer zipper for full height trousers. (Where the waist band is a straight strip of fabric) A 9" zipper would allow the trouser top to open more fully for your hips. The zipper could also be trimmed to something shorter if 9" were too long.
Also, on top of a short rise, I had a very short torso (I added 4" to the leg length) which meant that if I used a trouser pattern with a straight waist band, it would make my bottom look that much bigger visually - way too much attention to those hips!
I began making all of my trousers with a shaped waistband which visually decreases the volume of the body under the waist. The top of a shaped waistband sits at the waistline, whereas the bottom of a straight waistband sits at the waistline.
Try a longer zipper and see if that doesn't make things easier. Also, I'm curious to know if you find jeans easier to get in and out of than pants/trousers.
@@cliftonmcnalley8469 I have only found 1 store that actually carries pants that fit me so for the past umpteen years that is where I have gotten them. I find jeans a no go or have until they started making them with spandex in them so the hips stretch otherwise there is a huge gap at the back of the waistband when I sit. When I was young and had little money I made my own clothes as fabric was cheaper than readymade and (this will age me)I was lucky and hip huggers were all the rage so had no issues, waist was not included in them and dresses were empire waist and could flare for the hips. Then styles changed to shirtwaist dresses so I went to skirts, dresses were out because the waist was always in the wrong place but as I started working in a library a skirt got in the way when working on lower shelves. Shorts I just did elastic waists but they are not as comfy I find.
@@marilynbook4211 Oddly enough, hip huggers fit me best too, but I'm short rise, short thick waist (the waistband on jeans is literally touching both my hip bone and my bottom rib at the same time), and narrow hips. Avoiding the waist entirely solved a lot of issues, and half the time I could just wear them like they weren't hip huggers on me! So thank you for that reminder, I might go looking for a pattern for those... a pattern older than many of my friends :D
@@marilynbook4211 That actually all makes sense. I'm female BTW (not my device). We're probably in the same age bracket - tail end of the baby boomers - teen years in the 70's? Or you could be 20 years younger - those hiphuggers made a comeback in the 90's and fabric stores still existed.
Have you tried a 9" zipper? It will allow the waist to open up more so you should be able to get them on easier. At different times in history men's trousers have had 9" zips. Also, if you have a pair of trousers you aren't nuts about, just cut them open below the zip and try slipping them on and off to judge the length of the opening. With the gaping waistband in the back when you sit problem, I suspect there will be other issues to address ("smileys" under the bum?), but one thing at a time.😉
This series on Pants that Fit is very helpful:
th-cam.com/play/PLrMFNt3KK918iCf6FadnNAZpkmVymkd5f.html
Thank you!
Too advanced for me but it gave me something to think about as I learn. I've just started really making my own clothing from patterns and had a passing thought of fit. Maybe it will just be a pin to fit finished product thing? I do that with my clothes already. I make the sleeves the right lenth to look good on my body, round the hem, or nip and tuck here and there. Don't think I'm there yet on altering a pattern as I'm making a garment.
Encouraging and supportive video to complete projects.
I am struggling with a pair of store bought, mostly straight shorts that I am trying to figure out how to reduce the seam flair along the exterior hem.
I think it flares an inch or so, too much from the leg. So, it pokes out away from the leg than stay straight or follow the angle along the leg. It’s a detail I don’t like.
It would be cool to have a video address that so we can adjust what we have and like, instead of buying more or wishing the tailoring fairies and mice will make it fabulous.
Thanks for the videos!
would love to see a video on how one fit adjustment leads to many more and how to do it correctly. my common fit issue is short and sloped shoulders so whenever i fix that i have trouble with how to adjust the armscye and then the sleeves later, and dont really know if my seams are sitting in the right places after adjustments
Yes learning every day new things. Could u go the extra step and show how to change the pattern please
Debbie this is exactly what I do in Vintage Sewing School, if your interested you can take a look here www.vintagesewingschool.com/ or email me if you have any questions 🙂
Loved this whole video, thanks for sharing! Question, what more do you teach when a person jouins your school?
A small shift in perspective can be a huge help. It's not "I didn't make this right" our "my proportions are all wrong" but rather "the pattern does not properly address fitting me in this area." Then instead of castigating oneself or feeling like having failed somehow, it all becomes an exercise in addressing a weakness of mass-market pattern limitations. Over time patterns will emerge in the pattern brands, too. Brand X never quite realizes how different waist and hip circumference are, but Brand Y always seems to assume women have extremely wide shoulders. And Brand Z - let's just say their drafters don't really understand pants patterns!
I love these perspectives and discussions. I’ve been sewing for over 40yrs and only in the last 3ish years have I been able to put labels to pattern changes that I do and better my skills at doing them. I recently made a 1960s dress and the curved French dart coming up under the bust is sitting too high and for the life of me I can’t find the confidence to adjust the pattern without getting impatient. I’ve never done this before!!! Is it as simple as moving the end point down so I don’t upset the shape it offers to the waist?
Since I don't have a mannequin, (I stitch only for myself) I wear my garment several times along my sewing journey.I find this easier rather than doing the fitting adjustments once the entire garment is stitched.
Thank you for this! I'm "relearning" how to fit my body after losing a significant amount of weight and garments now needing completely different things than before and this was helpful because I honestly had given up in frustration. Question: as a professional do you "start" with a particular area since everything sort of impacts everything else (at least in the shoulder/neckline/bust area)?
Sure hope you are doing well!!! You are so amaz🎉ing🎉
Thanks Evelyn! Would love to see you address if there is a preferential order in which to alter fit. I've heard that the length and shoulders should be made to fit first? Would love to see your experiences around that.
I have so many fails because my body keeps changing as I age and many patterns are best on young bodies. I'm always struggling with looking fat frumpy.
I have learned it's better to slow sew than anything else! And the mistakes! Oh yes, the mistakes!!
Until this video, I had not thought about my back being the cause of my fitting problems. I'll have to get someone to help me check my back measurement (because I cant do that myself). My mother developed a big hump on her back in her senior years. I may be developing one myself. Thank you for this video.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching 😀
Please do a video on exactly how to transfer toile adjustments to your pattern. I understand how to take in or add to make the mock-up fit better but where to from there?
Great info but another thing to learn 😳 sewing really is a journey but I enjoy it so much. One question though, how do you put the alterations from your toile to paper? Do you unpick the stitches and re-copy the pieces on paper? Thanks for all the great videos, I'm glad I stumbled onto your channel. Brigitte from 🇨🇦
So, with the gaping neck and the pinches you made to fix that, would you add a dart there, or would you take that material out some other way, like altering the neckline on the pattern?
Maybe I’ll have a dress form in my next life.
If I pin the neckline like that, do i create little darts?
And would a bust adjustment make the gaping go away?
I'm unusually small on top (so need a smaller cup size and often gape at the armholes on sleeveless garments. A good bra has helped a lot but knowing how to make myself a great fitting basic top would be amazing! In addition, I am middle-aged so my tummy protrudes after having separation from four births. Sigh...I have no idea how to fix for that when sewing!
Do you already have a video talking about the order if the pattern alterations? I am short-waisted with a full bust , narrow waist and sloping shoulders. I’m guessing starting with the shoulders, move on to the bust and finally adjusting the back waist length and waist. Is this a reasonable order?
Great video idea! As a general rule, I start from the top and work my way down 😄
My takeaway is that I really need an accurate dress form to make alterations for myself. I want to do better but I think I’ve hit my max with the tools I have.