How to do a nozzle wipe before every print - Gcode Scripts part 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ย. 2016
- A nozzle wipe or purge line is a really handy way to make sure your extruder is ready to go as soon as it starts the first layer of your print - watch to learn how.
In this video we'll take some ideas from a profile for the Prusa i3 Mk2 and use it for the Wanhao i3 V2 by adding to the start gcode script.
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For copy paste :)
G1 Y-3.0 F500.0 ; move out of print volume
G1 X60.0 E9 F500.0 ; start purge
G1 X100 E12.5 F500.0 ; finish purge line
You are awesome lol
Thanks.
MVP stuff right there
No, MVC (Most Valuable Commenter)
not all heroes wear capes
Angus, I am so glad I found this video in your back catalog because this is exactly what I have been looking for to add to my Printrbot Simple Metal profile in Simplify3D. My first exprence with 3D printers was a Makerbot (older versions) and those do purge lines and I prefer them to a offset brim for priming the extruder. While my Gcode writing is getting better, I really needed this info to point me in the right direction. Thanks a ton!
By the way, I know you must hear this all the time, but whenever I think of you and your name, your just the 3D printer MacGyver to me!
Welcome back :)
I solved the problem with the start by printing a single brim layer with 3mm distance. That also does the job and helps the first layer to stick as well as your starting gcode :)
I was dreading learning how to make this command myself for my Wanhao i3, you just saved me a whole heap of trial and error. Thank you Angus. I'll go check part 1 to learn more :)
Good to see you back Angus, I've been meaning to set this up on my printer. This will make it a lot easier. Thanks!
I know this is an old video but it was perfect for what I was trying to do. Been watching a ton of your videos. Great work! Thanks
I used the purge line tonight and it worked straight away! thanks a lot man :D
This is a neat way to handle this. I have just been printing a 4 line skirt around my part to accomplish the "line purge".
Ace12GA same. sometimes the part is small and I need that many but other times the part is big and it wastes time and plastic
This is great. I've always been happy with my printer first lines, but it required me to manually prime the nozzle and grab it off the nozzle right before it lays down the skirt (that can be pried from my cold, dead hands). This wasn't a major problem with my OctoPrint setup, but it required me to be physically present for every print start. This simple code now allows me to start prints remotely - it cleanly primes the nozzle and removes all the excess crud that I was otherwise grabbing directly.
Glad to have you back mate, am sure my dreamer does this every time, but yes it great as we have some nice placi ready to print without any bad filament..
Looking forward seeing your next clip about GCoding! Yeah.. that rocks. thank you very much!
Thanks Angus for the great content, I like learning in little bits and pieces so cheers for this
Angus I'm so glad you're kicking back into gear with videos, hopefully things are going better now?
Thanks man, yep slowly but surely!
Glad you're back
Welcome Back! I had to do this after I started using simplify3d because of the dual extruders on the Flashforge, but I wish I would have had your video back then, so helpful!
Oh, and I hope Lady Muse is doing much better!
Thanks!!! She is :)
Angus, very helpful series these tips on Simplify, please continue! Thanks & best regards from Berlin!
Cool tutorial,very helpful. looking forward seeing other scripts :)
very nice! I like the purge line idea a lot! hopefully I can implement something similar for my multicoloured with 1 nozzle stuff I'm working on.
I've been wanting to do this for a while. Thanks.
Great to know. I prefer to do a skirt with 3 loops, it gives me a chance to look at how the filament is adhering to the bed's surface at the print area.
Great work Angus. Wanting to play with the gcode more to try and dial settings in some more.
love the foam mat and the stringy bits of plastic lying there looks just like my setup haha
I added a G92 E0 before and after the purge.
Before because if you kill a print midway, it doesn't zero the extruded length, and if you're in absolute positioning mode and you start a new print, it's gonna try and do the G1 X60.0 E10 F500.0 and just back the filament out.
After because the first line of gcode afterwards is usually a retract followed by moving the print head into position. Once again, you're at E15, it wants to retract to E-1.5 (if you use 1.5 mm retract distance), so it'll just back the filament out.
Both instances happened to me a few times when I used the original start script in the video before I figured out what was going on.
Thanks!! i wondered what the problem was
Thank you so much for this tid bit. I was pulling my hair out because mine was retracting a crap ton!
OMG thank you so much for this! My printer kept on retracting my filament at a very high rate of speed… lol. I couldn’t figure out why. Why do they not tell you this in all the tutorials on purge lines?
This just happened t me too, wish I'd read the comments!
This is what I needed, Thanks Angus
EXCELLENT! Thanks for this tutorial :)
Thanks for this. It really helped me.
The Wanhao Duplicator i3 can extend beyond Y200 if specified in the firmware. This means that you could move the print head to Y215, prime the nozzle then bring it back into the build volume so the oozed out filament gets chopped off and falls under your print bed so you never have to worry about cleaning it.
Hi Angus, great video.
One quick question : doesn't the Y-3 command force the printer to hit the y-endstop thus resetting the y-position back to zero and therefore setting the print off by 3mm in y-axis? Would it be possible to set to Y=0 for the same result?
Greetings from Germany
Welcome back! Do you, or anyone who might read this, know of a place that Print Bite can be purchased in the U.S.?
Hi, Thanks for the video. I tried this with my Creality CR-10 and Cura V3.4.1. Although Cura allows you to add code at the start it put a little bit in front of it. The line that caused the problem was "M82 ; absolute extrusion mode" meaning that when it ran my start section line "G1 X60.0 E9 F500.0" it moved the extruder to absolute position 9 rather than extrude it 9 steps. Depending on the position of the extruder it would result in a completely random extruder action like retracting all the filament out of the teflon tube. I had to add a line at the beginning "M83 ; Relative extrusion mode" and a M82 line at the end of my start section to switch it back. Any way to do an If-Then style loop in gcode?
Hi. Just checked the part one out and like the start finish g code tutorial but can I scroll through the whole code to find issues I'm having with a print? And do I need simplify to do this ?
Thanks. I'm a fan of your concise presentations.
Just what I was looking for 👍
Maybe home all axes as others have said, then turn on absolute mode?
thanks, I was having trouble with my first layer and this video helped me fix it
Man, i am so happy you call it Mark 2 and not MK2 lol drives my OCD berzerk :)
Yeah... because Mk2 is just an abbreviation of Mark 2...
MK3424 yep and yet it is easier and quicker to say mark 2 than MK
Thanks Angus! This works well but only if the nozzle is already heated. Is there a Gcode to bring the nozzle to 190c before the wipe?
Also, what about the code G12? That is a predefined cleaning code, which not many use.
glad houf back mate
Thanks man!
hope your Lady is on the mend
thanks Angus .. good info ..... g28 ,,, im thinking -a sensor on my cnc mill . i wonder if it would act the same ... should do ... save a bit of fine tramming time .
Hi Angus. Stupid S3D question (I purchased it Monday, love and hate it right now...lol). With my Duplicator I3 and Cura it used to lift the z axis a bit and purge filament after homing and before starting the print. For some reason I cannot get S3D to do that. I've entered Gcode numerous times and all it does after homing is sit for about five seconds, then start the print. I know it's a small thing, but, I liked that it does that in Cura because it allows me to remove plastic from the hot end that was smushed on there after everything homed.
Hi Angus! I'm just now seeing this video....Is there a way to code it so the nozzle wipe happens down the Y, not across the X? I keep a glass bed clipped onto the front left corner and the nozzle flicks the clips off....If I could go "back" on the Y axis that would be awesome!
Hi, How you work around the design and slicing the design with multiple colors to generated a GCODE capable of activating all the extruders or the ones required by the design when you have multiple nozzles? hope this question makes sense. Thank you
G'day thanks for the Vid, I have an issue with the start script... I have entered a nozzle wipe ( Priming nozzle) prior to print... which means i don't need to do a skirt and lose bed area. I find that at times the Extruder motor turns backward... meaning pulling filament out,, which causes the hot end to be NOT PRIMED ( empty!) . It does this randomly... any clues as to why and the fix?
with industrial printer there is a sequence for clean and purge the nozzle: at first there is a movement over a sort of brush for remove previous material, next an extrusion in a basket near the build area and then a purge line on the bed. sort of opposite at the end of the printer the sequence is like as follows: movement on the brush and lowering the bed to the bottom while beeping. I'm editing in this way the gcode of my solidoodle 4 to help out not only my prints but even my wife (i hadn't enough time to teach everything, so i'm making custom gcode to get flawless experience for her).
Any tips on how to modify the code for a Delta? I'd need a curved line to purge on the edge of a round bed.
Still handy at the end of 2017 :)
or 2020
Ahhh... I get it now; wipe=purge. Thanks for the clarification Angus! Although I'm very new to the 3D printing world, I'm a CNC machinist/programmer. Just bought my MK2s and S3D and really enjoy your videos as they are VERY educational. Bravo mate!
Q1) Rather than use a semi-colon after the given code, can we place comment in open/closed parenthesis?
Q2) What's with the "W" after the G28?
So rather than having an absolute position for the purge line it is possible to do a line that say is 5 mm margin from the print area? Flashprint has a Pre-Extrusion feature that allows the following variables: Margin: 5mm Path Length: 120mm Speed: 20mm/sec speed. It it also does a small radius at the very start of extruding which works very well for keeping the nozzles clean. But there are many other items that are lacking in that slicer so I've switched to Simplify 3D and am very happy. This would be a great thing to add to the startup script! Thanks for the great videos!
When I home my tarantula, the head is off the build plate. Is that fine, or should I move the sensor forward so the Y home is on the corner of the plate?
I am a newb here but was wondering if this would work with the makergear m2 rev. E..... Please let me know. Thanks!
Thx Angus. This helped a lot on my fresh MK3S+. If I want the purge line to be longer, can I replace the G1 X100 E12.5 F500.0 with G1 X200 E17 F500.0?
I just replaced the line and it worked
Hi,angus how to puase on specify layer on Dreamer ? on the script ?thank
Quick Question. Where should I add this into my start/end gcode?
here's my current set up:
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
I tried it on my Anet A8 but it make the nozzle clean outside my heatbedd .. I suppose i have to corrrect it somehow .. ? I have a problem with heating to , when it reaches temp it go print but every first print i had , i had to restart it and then it went allright .. I suppose the nozzle need some kind of pause when reaching printing tempeature .. ? Now i preheat my nozzle and heatbed and then i push print in octoprint and it get right from first try .. could i somehow make the prnter pause for 10 second before printing when it reached its temp ?
Could this settings work on the maker select v2
I am new to all this and this is a start code suggested by a guy on a FB group helping me get started.
Where would I put this purge line code into this? My thoughts are just above the M117 line - my logic being all above sets the printer conditions and the purge line is needed just before it starts printing.
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
M117 Printing...
Is there more to the i3MK2S profile than the GCODE start/end scripts? If you have a great profile, please share it!
So I have a Robo 3D R1 Plus and if I tell machine G1 E5-G1 E10
It goes to the exact location...how do I get it to extrude 5 and not just go to 5 and 10,Because when I tell it to do it again it goes all he way back to 5 and the to 10
Why the two piece code for the purge line? What purpose does that serve?
Ryan Garrison different flow of filament
Does this gcode work on the maker select V2
How can the nozzle wipe gcode be added to an ender 3 in cura 15.04 ?
I use this on my printer (Tronxy with Marlin firmware)
M117 Purge extruder
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
M117 Ready to go!
How does this differ from simply printing a skirt? Is there any advantage to doing it this way instead?
A purge line is advantageous as it does not eat up print area, takes a small amount of time regardless of how many parts and you don't risk the line getting pulled up and ruining your first layer like a skirt would. Personally I've moved all my machines over to this kind of nozzle priming.
Maker's Muse I'll give it a shot then. Thanks for the info.
Hey Angus, great help, i have been using this gcode since last year but only once out of 10 times my extruder start pulling the material back instead of feeding in as it is suppose to do. again it happens only few times but same gcode works fine next time. Can you please help me identify the issue?
My printer is Cartesian base close metal body 300x300x300 dual extruder (fixed) chinese made "Inoovo iCreate".
Using Simplify 3d slicer.
Big Thanks.
~Stay Home, Stay Safe~
What's the "W" after G28? It is not documented on the reprap g-code page.
hey Angus, what do you know about silicone insulated hotends?
i recently started reading up on it and stumbled upon two very interesting methods.
1) the hotend basically gets cast into a heat resistant silicone, which results in a very clean looking insulation but is quite a bit of work.
2) the assembled hotend simply gets wrapped in a few layers of self welding silicone tape. this got me quite good results but I have no means of comparing. the insulated hotend can be touched without instantly getting burned.
I use the E3D Sock on my Prusa i3 MK2 and it works perfectly e3d-online.com/V6-Sock-Kit-3-Pack?search=sock
I know this is a old video but i seem to always have problems it does purge perfect but when it starts first layer i get no stick, weird i guess
Can you still do this with a manual level bed printer? I know it might sound dumb but I am new to printing and wanted to make sure
you probably know right now, but yes you can do that.
Could someone please help me to write this script for a kossel delta printer? I tried to modify the code for the Cartesian style printer for my delta & didn't work 🤔
Doesn't adding a brim do the same thing?
I tried adding this to curs for a cr10spro. It primed the nozzle in mid air.
There are no z-axis movements in the given code, did you home all axes first? Does typing G1 Z0 F500 bring your nozzle down to the bed? If you enter these in the command line rather than in a script remember to make sure to type G90 for absolute positioning first, otherwise relative positioning (G91) may still be selected from a previous gcode file and the nozzle will move -3 from its current location rather than to y= -3. In a script generated by slicer software this will be inserted for you.
Do you know how to include a macro into a line of g-codes?
So whats the difference between doing that and doing a brim ?
Now G12 does it all.
Mine just starts oozing plastic from a couple of mm of the bed. When my i3 plus homes it the z moves up a bit. (fw related I think)
Can I use a G1 Z0.0 F500?
Hi,
If you use brim on your 3D print in simplify3D this purge line isn't really necessary, is it?
Because the brim itself actually is sort of a purge line. So I don't really see the value here if you have access to use brim.
yes and no... often there is a little shamutz stuck to the nozzle that is sticking up from drip as the nozzle heats up. just doing a brim it often leaves that little squirrely piece in the way where it can get picked up again by the nozzle passing by. purge line leaves it behind and out of the way.
I want to be a Makers Muse producer someday...
After you home, Z axis on on 0. Do you need to raise?
no because you are already have a space
Just curious on this...
The existing GCode goes to a known home point (0,0,0) then additional lead-in G-Code moves away from that point. Is the main G-Code file going to start with an absolute position, or is there a risk of offsetting the print as the G-Code maybe assuming it is starting from 0,0,0 ?
(Running a monoprice replicator i3, essentially a Wanhao like your demo here, but G-Code generator is a modified Cura program with a pre-set leadin G-Code)
- Eddy
As far as I understand it (I may be wrong) 3D Printers use G90 - which is absolute. Looking at the code from S3D it fires that off before anything else - so despite moving beyond 0, it should not offset position. The only exception to that is the resetting of the extruder to 0 at each layer, by using G92. I have not seen any 3D Printer code use G91 personally, which is incremental positioning.
Ok, tks for the feedback. I'm a bit new to the G-Code scene, but have years of exp with Gerber which is a similar CNC scripting language... cheers.
- Eddy
that is awesome, but one issue. Many of us have glass plates and the clips in the front/back which the head will collide with. I've been working on one for Cura and my Max Micron, basically the same thing just replacing "X" with "Y" so it slides up the side instead of across the front.
Yep pretty much, just make your purge line go up Y not X, or put it anywhere you like to avoid the clips :)
How is different on delta printer?
Hi, did it go outside(Y-3.0) on the Wanhao?
Yep, the Wanhao was able to move beyond home.
My Y-axis endstop is at the other end of the axis and I inverted it so I should use a different setting to Y-3.0 haha
My Monoprice i3 v2 extrudes a small blob purge at the left front corner of the platform before raising up and moving to center to print. Isn't that kinda' the same thing, just not a line?
Yeah there's a few ways you can do it! As long as it wipes the blob somewhere should be good
Hey Angus, can I add script for separate processes? I'm trying to print a batch of items (24 separate pieces) and running into issues with the tip getting gummed up halfway through and causing a failed print. My printer (cubicon single plus) has a nozzle cleaner mounted to the side of the bed and I want to write a script similar to the one you showed in the vid. I want the printer to move to the side of the bed and clean the nozzle before printing each of the 24 pieces. I already have separate processes set up for each piece and was just curious where I would place the script in each process... "starting script" on each process after the first? Is this possible or are scripts only applicable for the first process when printing from an sd card? Thanks
I would ask what is causing the tip to get filament stuck to it, is it a brim lifting away and sticking or are parts coming detached? I only had a brief period of time with the Cubicon Single, but did find parts would break free from the print bed if they didnt have enough surface area. You can definitely insert a cleaning script midway by creating a new process that starts and stops at a single layer (like 10.00 to 10.20 if printing at 200microns) but has 0 infill and no print data assigned, and insert into the 'per layer' window in scripts your cleaning routine - I have done this using M600 on the prusa mk2 to pause for color changes and need to make a video on it, it's a massive hack... but does work.
Awesome, thanks for the reply! I like Simplify3d but must have a setting not quite dialed in, as I can print one item at a time but as soon as I go to print multiple items things go bad. I've had to walk away from the printer for a couple days to cool off... I get frustrated when I can't solve something and am new to 3d printing. 😫
i still dont get how you can use Y-3 unless you have an origin offset ??
Because you can configure 0,0 to be the corner of the bed (maybe 5 mm in or more if you have clamps on) rather than the left/frontmost position the head can get to. If you home x and y, then move the nozzle to the front left corner of the bed, then type G92 X0 Y0, this will become your new origin, until you home again anyway! As a result you'll be able to use Y-3. Now if you move as far left and forward as you can (without homing as this will reset your position values!) and read the negative values, you can enter these into your firmware to make them permanent, and as such your software will always treat 0,0 as on the bed, and your coordinate system will make much more sense!
My Z doesn't move, so it spurts into open air?
Hi Angus. Helvio from Switzerland here...
I`ve tried that code on my two printers, but it retracts the filament instead of extrude it... What could be wrong?
thanks!
If you're using cura an the reprap flavor of gcode you have to clear the start gcode completely and insert what Angus is using, but after it does the purge line for some reason it does a big retraction right before it starts the print which I haven't figured out why yet.
Interesting, I always make sure to at least print a skirt
I'm having a glitch where it heats up the bed and tries to do the purge line, stops at the end, and THEN preheats the extruder. Anyone know some gcode to solve this? Feedback would be much appreciated.
If you can move and print outside the build volume, the. Why isn't the build volume just that much larger?
because you might be using clamps? I have no other idea, mine has 0 right on the edge of the printer.
0:55 skirts
hi angus
Why did you move X again?
I'm confused why there are 2 lines of code for this with 2 extrude (E) commands? I see a starting X axis point, speed, and ending point, but how does it extrude 9 then 12.5mm of plastic in 2 separate commands, but have 1 solid nozzle wipe line?
Logan Henry - Hot end position is at X0 Y-3 right before the G1 line.
The first G1 command says to move X to position 60 (60mm away from X0) and extrude 9mm of filament at the same time.
We have arrived at X60 Y-3.
The second G1 command says to move X to position 100 and extrude 12.5mm of filament at the same time.
Ok, thank you. 60mm move and 9mm plastic, then a second move that is another 40mm and 12.5mm of plastic. That sounds like it would get the hot end primed well! So there is no distinguishable delay between moves. I suppose if Angus used a different F speed between the two moves, it would be visibly obvious as 2 different commands. That's interesting!
No, the moves are absolute, not relative. So the first line extrudes 9 mm, the second line extrudes 3.5 mm (12.5 - 9 = 3.5), not 12 mm.
I need that Vase file :'(
why would you need g1 y-3 when all axes are already home?
how come when i did this it starts priming in mid air like a couple of millimeters
same problem here , did you solve it ?
Just found the prblem, you have to lower the nozzle after G29 for my tevo tarantula i use this :
;EXTRUDER PRIMER
G1 Y2 F7500 ; move out of print volume
G1 X5 F7500 ; move out of print volume
G1 Z0.5 F2000 ; move Z lower
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 X6 E9 F250 ; start purge line extrude 9mm feed
G1 X100 E13 F500.0 ; finish purge line extrude 13mm feed
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E0 ;extrude 0mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
M117 Printing...
even if you lower Z at 0.5 it will automaticaly get at the first layer size so 0.2 as i have printer with a layer thickness of 0.2mm, i use Marlin 1.1.4
Your hair is way too neat in this video :-P
Isn't this the same as a skirt? What's the pros and cons
Same principle, but skirts can take away print volume and sometimes get tangled up in your first layer.
well your Y-3.0 is NOT outside of your print area. It's on some edge and you CHOSE to reduce your print area for some reason you could mention. This start gcode also supposes that your printer, after homing is at the right height for purging and the purge to stick to the build plate, but that is not the case with marlin and a bltouch. This is what I have for now (marlin / bltouch / anet a8), it's perfectible.
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 X90.0 Y1 Z10 F2000.0 ; move out of print volume without risking hitting any tongs
G1 Z0.2 F200 ; move down the head to the right Z before purging
G1 X150 E9 F500.0 ; start purge
G1 Y1.4 ; before 2nd line, move ahead of the first path
G1 X110 E12.5 F500.0 ; finish purge line (come back)
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
thanks!
Copy Paste:
M300 S1567 P240 ;Play a groovie beep tone to get things started
M115 U3.0.7 ; tell the printer latest firmware version available
M300 S1567 P240G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G80 ; mesh bed levelingG1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside printing area
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro lineG1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line