Back when I was in college living in the dorms, it annoyed me to no end that I couldn't do simple work on my own car. Until I befriended the campus maintenance guys who let me use the maintenance building's garage bays.
That's what a college should do to help justify its tuition rates! I was a bus driver at my college and had the same benefits from the maintenance crew.
I ALWAYS work on my own cars, always have. I’ve learned stuff the hard way, by trial and error. Everything i’ve Done on my cars i have done on driveways/parking lots. Others think it’s weird but it saves me TONS of money and i get the satisfaction of doing it myself and learning things along the way. Oil changes, repairs, modifications and DIY stuff. All done by me and i wouldn’t have it any other way.
I have been able to do pretty much everything myself on the cars at our house now because my parents finally trust me. Even fluid services they are good with. I love doing all the work on our cars at home because with everything that has happened with shops and stuff, I just don’t trust them. Now I’m just concerned for when it comes to having to take out the trans of my friend’s bmw with just two jack stands. Definitely gonna need more tools for that job. I really should be documenting everything I’m doing and stuff but never seem to remember to record it.
@@filip2529 It is a 2.3 or 2.4 throughout the years. Maybe a 2.5 in the P1 chassis (RNC) As a result it has thicker cylinder walls than the stock R 2.5.
Last winter I changed a power steering pump basically in a pile of snow on a 2008 XC70. For some reason Volvo decided to make things more difficult on the P3 platform than they were on the P2 and moved it from the top of the engine to the bottom. The stealership (that I will now never ever visit again unless I absolutely need to) asked around 2000€ for the repair. Doing the job myself cost around 200€. Also, that's right you don't need fancy tools, so far I have never needed any of the tools stated in VIDA for completing any job.
Bravo Dude! Good job on tackling that yourself. Nice beginner tool kit, it will expand with odd specialty to work on the R! good luck! And do your work in a real garage! Your eyes and hands will thank you!
Added a boost gauge once I started modding my S70 T5 too. Can’t believe it didn’t come stock like the 850’s. Looks like we are adding another Volvo to our family. I’ve been searching for a 2009 XC90 V8 R-Design in dark silver for over a year and finally found one!! The best thing is that it only has 63,000 miles on it with a clean title. Plus, with the low miles I can get a Volvo warranty on it. Monday it’s being inspected by a Volvo dealership and once they say it’s all good, she’ll be mine!! Finally the search will be over!!
I couldn’t agree with you more on that! I do all of the work on my VR in my garage including changing all the drivetrain fluids and pulling my exhaust and downpipe as one compete piece. I would never trust a shop with my baby so that’s just another motivation to do the work myself For your boost issues I’m going to guess your wastegate needs calibration since you seem to be pulling a decent amount of vacuum. Rob will walk you trough how to do that if that’s your issue. Great video as always!
You as well!! I can’t wait to see a video titled “removing the turbo on our 2005 Volvo V70R was HORRIBLE”. Seriously, it’s going to be the worst 7 hours of your life. That’s how long it took me at least.
It’s going to be well worth it if you do a hybrid. Maybe shim your block while everything is apart and then you can see that new gauge go up to near 25!
I love that gauge with the blue color match and R font. I love the stock look. Too bad they don't make an oil pressure gauge too, in that same color. Knowing oil pressure would be nice, especially on track, where something could go wrong in that department with high G's and a wet sump oiling system.
My 2010 XC90 3.2 is and has been my daily driver for many years now.., its just entirely too risky for me to experiment, learn or toy with my own maintenance and repairs. I rezpect what you are saying, however its simply amn unacceptable risk for me to do my own work.
I have a 82 244 2.1l reblock Volvo, all original. It has been sitting for around 16 years. I honestly don’t know anything about working on cars but, I am planning on getting it running in the next few months. What do I need to do? I am figuring on replacing the gas tank, battery, spark plugs... The simple stuff.
I could use that gauge. I notice my S60R seems to stutter a bit when I accelerate hard. Maybe this could answer some diagnostic questions. Thanks Gregson.
I bought the gauge but not the ripoff pod it sits in. I just stuck it to the pillar with a blob of goop. Spray the back of the gauge with flat black and it's invisible. Installation and wiring is a non event.
A turbo car withoout a factory boost gauge, you can buy an obd2 tool that can display it?..anyway its c3azy im renting a VW polo in the arctic that has no temperature gauge
Hi, when you turn on ignition, the gauge reads zero boost. Once you start the engine, it is showing a minus figure at idle, but when you rev the engine the boost gauge needle moves up toward zero. I would have thought that when you start it up, the needle would climb from zero upwards. The max is shown as 30psi and i thought the gauge was to show what your max boost is, or have I got this wrong? Anyway, good video and enjoyed watching...
Thanks for watching! The reason the needle is in the negatives is because there’s back pressure in the system when the turbo isn’t kicking in (aka vacuum). Most turbo cars have a negative pressure reading at idle. The needle will show you where your boost is. This gauge only goes up to 30psi and on a stock turbo with our mods it shouldn’t be going past 21-22psi at the maximum.
The engine doesn't push enough air at idle to create boost pressure, so it will still be drawing a vacuum like a naturally aspirated engine. Also the free revs without any real engine load won't generate much boost pressure either.
Looks great! I need to put one in mine too. But Viva/Carbon Werks makes this door pod that I want to do so bad. Here's an example: rs64.pbsrc.com/albums/h180/xcmav66/Volvo/103_0832.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip On top of that, I'd either like to buy an old fried R cluster or get in touch with XemodeX and see if I can get one of the fuel level/coolant temp gauge needles from an R cluster so I can replace the needle in the iPD R gauge with a factory small needle. I think that would make it look 100% factory. Edit: Like I said on Patreon, I've heard these gauges can be iffy on readout but upon further investigation I believe it to be bad installation or unrelated issues causing this (bad boost source, kinked tubing, other issues with the car causing low boost etc.)
Agree on the last paragraph (and responded on patreon). The A-pillar pod is sooooooo nice, but given the brightness of the ipd gauge, even in the dimmed setting I installed at, would be too bright in my face. I like that it’s set back a bit.
@@ShiftingLanes Yeah, I've heard the gauge is pretty bright. I personally would probably wire the gauge to the cars dimmer, and install a potentiometer behind the gauge hidden in the pod. Use the potentiometer to match it to the other interior lighting at full brightness, then I could adjust everything with the dimmer switch. It would be a bit more in-depth, but I feel like the work would be worth it for a permanent mod.
Dude... you're working off the concrete when you have a perfectly good work bench when you open the hatch. Hell I do carpentry out of the back of my V70.
How is the double sided tape fixing the pod to the dash holding up? I installed mine in cold weather as well and it would not seal strong enough to hold it.... I just lived with it and put a piece close to each end inside to keep it from sliding and it’s been fine for a few years, but I’m sick of it. No one can tell but I know it’s not proper and it’s eating at me- plan on fiberglassing it to the a pilar this summer.
When did you buy and install your pod? I bought and installed only a few weeks ago and I didn’t need tape at all. The tab that is built into the left side of the pod is made so that you can just wedge it in between the A-pillar and the dash. Mine just fits right in and stays perfectly
ShiftingLanes wow actually longer than I thought about 6 years ago. I did an in-depth write up on SweedeSpeed with pics. They must have updated it, cuz it came with a weather stripping that you had to stick to the bottom edges of the pod and then double sided tape that fixed the weather stripping to the dash. A tab actually sounds like a great idea- don’t know why I didn’t think of that... even if I just used super glue or epoxy to add a tab it wouldn’t show, I’m def gonna do that. Thanks! Thread on SS- forums.swedespeed.com/#/topics/168116?page=1
Yes I believe the pod has been updated. The original install video they did is a bit different than the kit I received. It’s a nice little design, though the $109 for the pod itself is a tough sell
ShiftingLanes agreed that is steep, but I had never done any fiberglass at the time... still haven’t done much, might make for a good video since you’re advocating DIY. The other mounting options are about the same or a little more- the cluster surround and the left side vent, but the pod looks a bit more at home IMO
Also love IPD - got their HD TCV and BCV, air filter, sway bar links...looking to get their exhaust and tune, but wondering where did you get this car tuned?
@@ShiftingLanes Well I'm only in a t5, not quite the boost that an R sends out, the only thing I read about the ipd one is a fatal boost spike with an mte stage 2 tune and that it won't handle the heat - had no issues in 5k miles so far though
@@MrKushinator420 The boost spikes are the issue, all of those "HD" valves are actually just rebranded MAC valves and Volvos just don't play well with them for some reason. I use a Porsche Peirburg in my R, basically the same as OEM but ironically half the price despite being a Porsche part. I believe the Porsche valve has slightly larger orifices but they work pretty much identically.
@@THEGHOSTSLAVE Was just reading forum posts and found that part on rockauto for 20 bucks. Will probably pick it up when I get around to tuning it, thanks for the tips guys.!
They will be on soon, and you’re going to love them! Car is boosting to 15-17psi and breaking up, with small spikes to 20. Not consistent boost. We’ll get the tune dialed in properly soon.
@@ShiftingLanes I was just kidding the trufe is that you can never have too many tools. Even though you almost never use some of them. Except for those IKEA ones you can definitely have to many of those. You know those cheep things that comes with some of their furniture, yeah when you have about a shoe box full of those plus the same but better tools. (Real tools)
@@canaanbreen2834 I'm not a experienced Mechanic yet, I'm not even a mechanic yet. But in my experience working on cars mainly Volvo's and some KIAs and a few f*cking sh*t box Renaults and also a Volkswagen Golf mk6. I have not runed in to a single imperial (none metric) bolt or nut.
Doing a large aesthetics install video soon. Waiting on one part. The new center caps will be part of that video and they are AWESOME. Don’t want to give away the look 🙂
Back when I was in college living in the dorms, it annoyed me to no end that I couldn't do simple work on my own car. Until I befriended the campus maintenance guys who let me use the maintenance building's garage bays.
HELL yea. That sounds awesome.
That’s the situation I’m in now. Unfortunately I don’t know any of the maintenance guys...
That's what a college should do to help justify its tuition rates! I was a bus driver at my college and had the same benefits from the maintenance crew.
I ALWAYS work on my own cars, always have. I’ve learned stuff the hard way, by trial and error. Everything i’ve Done on my cars i have done on driveways/parking lots. Others think it’s weird but it saves me TONS of money and i get the satisfaction of doing it myself and learning things along the way. Oil changes, repairs, modifications and DIY stuff. All done by me and i wouldn’t have it any other way.
I have been able to do pretty much everything myself on the cars at our house now because my parents finally trust me. Even fluid services they are good with. I love doing all the work on our cars at home because with everything that has happened with shops and stuff, I just don’t trust them. Now I’m just concerned for when it comes to having to take out the trans of my friend’s bmw with just two jack stands. Definitely gonna need more tools for that job. I really should be documenting everything I’m doing and stuff but never seem to remember to record it.
I swapped a 2.4L T5 into my R in my garage. These cars are really pretty easy to work on.
Isn't T5 a 2.5L engine?
@@filip2529 It is a 2.3 or 2.4 throughout the years. Maybe a 2.5 in the P1 chassis (RNC) As a result it has thicker cylinder walls than the stock R 2.5.
Snabb means fast in Swedish so Snabb intake is actually fast intake. Keep those videos coming! 🇸🇪 👍😀👍
Last winter I changed a power steering pump basically in a pile of snow on a 2008 XC70. For some reason Volvo decided to make things more difficult on the P3 platform than they were on the P2 and moved it from the top of the engine to the bottom. The stealership (that I will now never ever visit again unless I absolutely need to) asked around 2000€ for the repair. Doing the job myself cost around 200€. Also, that's right you don't need fancy tools, so far I have never needed any of the tools stated in VIDA for completing any job.
thanks for this video ... its nice to help those who do not have the courage to try to modify the electric system of a car .. like me :)
i love it! will some day buy volvo R!
Do it just got the v50 Rdesign edition black with the D3 engine it goes like fuck and sounds amazing
Bravo Dude! Good job on tackling that yourself. Nice beginner tool kit, it will expand with odd specialty to work on the R! good luck! And do your work in a real garage! Your eyes and hands will thank you!
Haha thanks man! Have a 2-car garage at home. Did this video and fix that way to help prove the point. People should DIY more often!
I'm waiting for my -05 S60 R to arrive from Sweden next week :))
Added a boost gauge once I started modding my S70 T5 too. Can’t believe it didn’t come stock like the 850’s. Looks like we are adding another Volvo to our family. I’ve been searching for a 2009 XC90 V8 R-Design in dark silver for over a year and finally found one!! The best thing is that it only has 63,000 miles on it with a clean title. Plus, with the low miles I can get a Volvo warranty on it. Monday it’s being inspected by a Volvo dealership and once they say it’s all good, she’ll be mine!! Finally the search will be over!!
Congrats Seb!
I couldn’t agree with you more on that! I do all of the work on my VR in my garage including changing all the drivetrain fluids and pulling my exhaust and downpipe as one compete piece. I would never trust a shop with my baby so that’s just another motivation to do the work myself
For your boost issues I’m going to guess your wastegate needs calibration since you seem to be pulling a decent amount of vacuum. Rob will walk you trough how to do that if that’s your issue.
Great video as always!
Thanks dude! Keep wrenching🙂
You as well!! I can’t wait to see a video titled “removing the turbo on our 2005 Volvo V70R was HORRIBLE”. Seriously, it’s going to be the worst 7 hours of your life. That’s how long it took me at least.
Can’t wait. Lol
It’s going to be well worth it if you do a hybrid. Maybe shim your block while everything is apart and then you can see that new gauge go up to near 25!
Oh dang I didn’t realize you didn’t have as many subscribers. You guys seriously deserve more. Probably will get many more in the future
Thanks man! We want this to be our day jobs. Keep grinding until it does.
ShiftingLanes your welcome, and so ya know I watch the ads all the way through for you guys. You guys will get there.
☝🏻legend!!!
Finally! Woohoo!!!! I love my iPd boost gauge! Love the vids man
To get my boost information I use a obdII Bluetooth and my phone with the torque app. Pretty cheap at about $20 total plus all the other info like AFR
not even a short drive to film the boost gauge? you are such a tease :)
I'm working on the Selespeed actuator of my Alfa 156. It's really important to use some good tools to work
I love that gauge with the blue color match and R font. I love the stock look. Too bad they don't make an oil pressure gauge too, in that same color. Knowing oil pressure would be nice, especially on track, where something could go wrong in that department with high G's and a wet sump oiling system.
Agree! Hey ipd get on that.
YEESSS I TOTALLY AGREE
That V70 is RAD
Thanks Viktor! My favorite car I’ve ever owned.
Yes!
Thinking of getting a v70r :)
My 2010 XC90 3.2 is and has been my daily driver for many years now.., its just entirely too risky for me to experiment, learn or toy with my own maintenance and repairs. I rezpect what you are saying, however its simply amn unacceptable risk for me to do my own work.
I have a 82 244 2.1l reblock Volvo, all original. It has been sitting for around 16 years. I honestly don’t know anything about working on cars but, I am planning on getting it running in the next few months. What do I need to do? I am figuring on replacing the gas tank, battery, spark plugs... The simple stuff.
I could use that gauge. I notice my S60R seems to stutter a bit when I accelerate hard. Maybe this could answer some diagnostic questions. Thanks Gregson.
No sweat man! You can find them cheaper used on the forums and FB groups.
ShiftingLanes I’ll hit up Swedespeed. Thanks again.
Hope there is a Torx security bit in that set for the maf lol.
Men.. I love your car...
I have a Volvo v70 glt
Makes me want to boost up 💪🤣
I bought the gauge but not the ripoff pod it sits in. I just stuck it to the pillar with a blob of goop. Spray the back of the gauge with flat black and it's invisible. Installation and wiring is a non event.
A turbo car withoout a factory boost gauge, you can buy an obd2 tool that can display it?..anyway its c3azy im renting a VW polo in the arctic that has no temperature gauge
Hi, when you turn on ignition, the gauge reads zero boost. Once you start the engine, it is showing a minus figure at idle, but when you rev the engine the boost gauge needle moves up toward zero. I would have thought that when you start it up, the needle would climb from zero upwards. The max is shown as 30psi and i thought the gauge was to show what your max boost is, or have I got this wrong?
Anyway, good video and enjoyed watching...
Thanks for watching! The reason the needle is in the negatives is because there’s back pressure in the system when the turbo isn’t kicking in (aka vacuum). Most turbo cars have a negative pressure reading at idle. The needle will show you where your boost is. This gauge only goes up to 30psi and on a stock turbo with our mods it shouldn’t be going past 21-22psi at the maximum.
The engine doesn't push enough air at idle to create boost pressure, so it will still be drawing a vacuum like a naturally aspirated engine. Also the free revs without any real engine load won't generate much boost pressure either.
My guess before even watching the video is you are having Waste Gate problems.
Respect
Looks great! I need to put one in mine too. But Viva/Carbon Werks makes this door pod that I want to do so bad. Here's an example: rs64.pbsrc.com/albums/h180/xcmav66/Volvo/103_0832.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip
On top of that, I'd either like to buy an old fried R cluster or get in touch with XemodeX and see if I can get one of the fuel level/coolant temp gauge needles from an R cluster so I can replace the needle in the iPD R gauge with a factory small needle. I think that would make it look 100% factory.
Edit: Like I said on Patreon, I've heard these gauges can be iffy on readout but upon further investigation I believe it to be bad installation or unrelated issues causing this (bad boost source, kinked tubing, other issues with the car causing low boost etc.)
Agree on the last paragraph (and responded on patreon). The A-pillar pod is sooooooo nice, but given the brightness of the ipd gauge, even in the dimmed setting I installed at, would be too bright in my face. I like that it’s set back a bit.
@@ShiftingLanes Yeah, I've heard the gauge is pretty bright. I personally would probably wire the gauge to the cars dimmer, and install a potentiometer behind the gauge hidden in the pod. Use the potentiometer to match it to the other interior lighting at full brightness, then I could adjust everything with the dimmer switch. It would be a bit more in-depth, but I feel like the work would be worth it for a permanent mod.
Dude... you're working off the concrete when you have a perfectly good work bench when you open the hatch. Hell I do carpentry out of the back of my V70.
Camera angle and lighting.
Does the gauge pod slide around when driving or does it stick to the dash?
Sticks well. There’s a tab that goes right into the dash and Apillar meeting point. Very solid.
How is the double sided tape fixing the pod to the dash holding up? I installed mine in cold weather as well and it would not seal strong enough to hold it.... I just lived with it and put a piece close to each end inside to keep it from sliding and it’s been fine for a few years, but I’m sick of it. No one can tell but I know it’s not proper and it’s eating at me- plan on fiberglassing it to the a pilar this summer.
When did you buy and install your pod? I bought and installed only a few weeks ago and I didn’t need tape at all. The tab that is built into the left side of the pod is made so that you can just wedge it in between the A-pillar and the dash. Mine just fits right in and stays perfectly
ShiftingLanes wow actually longer than I thought about 6 years ago. I did an in-depth write up on SweedeSpeed with pics. They must have updated it, cuz it came with a weather stripping that you had to stick to the bottom edges of the pod and then double sided tape that fixed the weather stripping to the dash. A tab actually sounds like a great idea- don’t know why I didn’t think of that... even if I just used super glue or epoxy to add a tab it wouldn’t show, I’m def gonna do that. Thanks!
Thread on SS- forums.swedespeed.com/#/topics/168116?page=1
Yes I believe the pod has been updated. The original install video they did is a bit different than the kit I received. It’s a nice little design, though the $109 for the pod itself is a tough sell
ShiftingLanes agreed that is steep, but I had never done any fiberglass at the time... still haven’t done much, might make for a good video since you’re advocating DIY.
The other mounting options are about the same or a little more- the cluster surround and the left side vent, but the pod looks a bit more at home IMO
Also love IPD - got their HD TCV and BCV, air filter, sway bar links...looking to get their exhaust and tune, but wondering where did you get this car tuned?
Go back to the OEM TCV. It’s widely regarded by the Volvo community to be the best.
I’m using Hilton to tune this car.
@@ShiftingLanes Well I'm only in a t5, not quite the boost that an R sends out, the only thing I read about the ipd one is a fatal boost spike with an mte stage 2 tune and that it won't handle the heat - had no issues in 5k miles so far though
@@MrKushinator420 The boost spikes are the issue, all of those "HD" valves are actually just rebranded MAC valves and Volvos just don't play well with them for some reason. I use a Porsche Peirburg in my R, basically the same as OEM but ironically half the price despite being a Porsche part. I believe the Porsche valve has slightly larger orifices but they work pretty much identically.
@@THEGHOSTSLAVE Was just reading forum posts and found that part on rockauto for 20 bucks. Will probably pick it up when I get around to tuning it, thanks for the tips guys.!
How much boost are you runing in the v70r?
Right now it’s all over the place. Depending on throttle angle, anywhere from 15-23 psi, but it doesn’t stay in one spot
Here's the thing though.. The Volvo maintenance warranty is too good of a deal.
Wheel center caps !!! it needs center caps. And how much boost now car is runinig?
They will be on soon, and you’re going to love them!
Car is boosting to 15-17psi and breaking up, with small spikes to 20. Not consistent boost. We’ll get the tune dialed in properly soon.
@@ShiftingLanes Maybe custom shifting lanes center caps? im runing now 22psi next step is 29-30psi but its diesel so its not that big of a deal
Man, the dude left his camera behind... now there won't be any more videos. :'(
Whomp
None metric?
Why would you need that?
Further more why would you build a car with none metric nuts and bolts?
Well in the US it’s good to have a set of each. For cars and for random tasks since we’re not metric here for pretty much everything.
Every car I've worked on that was 1990 and newer was predominantly metric nuts and bolts. Now we see a lot of Torx and hex stuff.
@@ShiftingLanes I was just kidding the trufe is that you can never have too many tools. Even though you almost never use some of them.
Except for those IKEA ones you can definitely have to many of those. You know those cheep things that comes with some of their furniture, yeah when you have about a shoe box full of those plus the same but better tools. (Real tools)
@@canaanbreen2834 I'm not a experienced Mechanic yet, I'm not even a mechanic yet.
But in my experience working on cars mainly Volvo's and some KIAs and a few f*cking sh*t box Renaults and also a Volkswagen Golf mk6. I have not runed in to a single imperial (none metric) bolt or nut.
Why do your rims have no center caps?
Doing a large aesthetics install video soon. Waiting on one part. The new center caps will be part of that video and they are AWESOME. Don’t want to give away the look 🙂
ShiftingLanes are they the prancing moose logo?
how much will you sell your car for i want a v70r? i will give you 10k and i live in florida so tell me where i need to go.
Not for sale. Won’t be until the build is finish, and maybe not even after that.
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