I've gotten a bunch of comments asking how to get the plans. I have everything hosted on Patreon. If you sign up to support the channel (patreon.com/clough42) you can get access to the files for this, and all of my other projects. The downloadable file bundle includes the full Fusion 360 model, a STEP export for use in SolidWorks or other CAD software, DXF files for cutting out the parts or ordering them, drawings of all of the machined parts, assembly drawings showing how it all goes together, and a complete list of all of the hardware you need, with links to sources. I'm also seeing a lot of comments asking about pricing. In general, I try to stay away from discussing pricing because it's so volatile. I have machines in my shop that now cost double what I paid just a few years ago. That said, at the moment you could build this grinder exactly the way you see it in my videos for around $2K. You could of course save hundreds of dollars by ordering two sets of parts for you and a friend, skipping the powder coating, using an Asian import VFD, cutting out the parts yourself, etc. It all depends what you want and need.
@@mattmurphy7030 2k for a belt sander that you can service yourself and order what parts you want than have some mass fabricated name brand that will break in a couple of years
I think this is a great design, elegant and accessible! An addition I think could be really nice would be a lasered a protractor/degree scale from the pivot point to the back of the platen support, and added a little indicator needle on the 1 1/4 bar so you could zero it perfectly, but have fairly repeatable rapid adjustments. I'm sure you have a friend or TH-cam colleague with a fibre laser, but I'd happily do it for you if you could live without your grinder for the time it took to ship it back and forth
You should sell these as a kit, just the send cut send parts and hardware. Links to the other parts and some assembly/machining required would be very appealing.
Don't that is a good way to destroy something you enjoy by dealing with the ungrateful public people are so incredibly senility god forbid if they say your missing a Lil bolt evendors thought you waighed the full package and it was with in .5 grams or a pair of bolts where way off one had 2 threads more than the other last thing you want is to let the public in your shop
Wow, well thought out. I bought Jer Schmidt's plans a couple years ago as I feel it is one of the best designs out there. Need to be able to weld to do his project. Your design will allow more folks to build. Can't wait to see part 2.
Awesome, happy to see this. Check out Phil Vandelay’s video series on his own diy one. He ends up designing in spark guards which make a huge difference for keeping the shop clean.
Excited to see this. Grinders are fun to design and build. I’ve been a big fan of the channel for a long time, and I’m a machinist at Ameribrade so this is right up my alley!
Perfect example of CAD/CAM doing the work. Autodesk really did us a huge favor with Fusion 360. Imagine doing this without CAD? This device is going to change your pristinely clean shop a little - maybe time for those vinyl panel curtains we see all over industry 🙂
Continually impressed by this channel. Im in the middle of building an Acorn CNC cabinet, and trying to follow along. Awesome project! Hope it works out!
I'd love it if you could offer kits here with just the slotting operations and the guide bar machining complete, for those of us without milling machines. Countersinking, threading, drilling, etc, are easy enough to do with hand tools or a drill press, but.... well, appropriately jigged, it would be _possible_ to cut those slots in aluminum using a router, and get those guide bars to size with a table saw, but that's still sketchy enough that I'd rather buy a kit with those ops pre-done.
Great job! By using laser cut mortice and tenon/bolted edge connections you can avoid all bends and the drilled spacers.....The laser is king for this sort of machine. The less manual work the better. I look forward to the next video.
I wanted some adjustability to allow flexibility for different bar dimensions, and I thought tabbed connections would make that harder. It would be tempting to design for captured nuts to avoid threading, too, but if you laser-cut the spacers, it drives the price up considerably, and there's always a little taper in the laser cut that could cause issues. In an earlier version of the design, I looked at tabbing steel spacers into the sides and plug welding them.
Its absolutely gorgeous. I just recently began knife making and i wad only able to affors a cheap 1x30 belt grinder. I hope to one day be able to afford a belt grinder like thia one day.
I recently found this channel and have been loving the content. The grinder looks amazing! I'm a machine designer by degree and profession and there's some design cues that I really think I could use in my own field. I especially like the black on red "42", looks so good. Very well done. That being said the one thing I don't like is how the tooling arm locking handles bear down directly on the soft aluminum. I'd imagine those will make some pretty gnarly marks over the life of the machine.
Another nice thing about the design of those handles, is that even after assembly you can easily rotate those nuts to change the clocking of the threads (and thus the angle where they tighten up). Just remove the bar, push the handle in against the spring to push the nut out of the hex, and then rotate it to the next 60 degree step. So you can ensure the handles all point in a position that makes them the most ergonomic.
Hmm... I should not have put my lunch in the oven and start your video. That timer I heard meant I could have had my lunch without the black crust on top 😲 I love the black&red color scheme - this is one nice addition to your workshop
videos like these make me jelly. so i bought my own shop and ive started to build my own machines. started with a 3d printer, built one from scratch and now building a huge over powered co2 laser. next is a cnc router with atc
Nice build James! A beautiful machine 😍! I can only imagine the mental gymnastics necessary to design all the features and clearances in CAD. I have been planning on building one of these for a few years now. I have accumulated some of the parts, thought about what features I would want, and leaning towards my overkill tendencies I would definitely like it to tilt and to have a small radius attachment as well as different table options. Probably things I wouldn't use very often. Congrats on your year long dream coming true 👍 I've got to get life out of the way to get my grinder built! Lol.
Outstanding! I will absolutely be subscribing, downloading, customizing and building from these plans. Thanks so much for doing all the heavy lifting! I'll wait to see how the series turns out, so I can think about mods. I like some of the suggestions below, and I was thinking about an angle indicator on the idler plate, and putting the speed control over on the right side for easy access. I built a remote control box for my mill VFD, and really enjoy having it close to where my hands usually are. Maybe also a dust collection tray with shop-vac connector...
Looks like a solid design. Also looks like there are 4-5 things that could be done slightly differently for someone without access to a mill. Or who doesn't care for tapping holes. I've been in need of one of these for a while and I will definitely be borrowing some ideas from this one.
@@ADBBuild Definitely. Not nearly as neat as all those tapped holes. But definitely serves the purpose. The platen could be slotted instead of the aluminum mount as well. Would mean an extra tapped hole or two, with a stud threadlocked in to provide clearance for the tool rest. But then the same design can be done without a mill at all. The spacers between the two side plates could be cut to size on a table saw to a good enough precision, if aluminum was used. Love the basic layout though and it leaves a lot of room for adaptation. I think this could be completely built without CNC too probably. Drill press and something to cut the material (plasma, metal cutting circular saw, jigsaw, bandsaw, etc.), pretty much good to go!
Those flange nuts are a nice touch, I'd also add a shim on the inside, so instead of having the rotating nut going straight into the bar, you'll have a no-rotating disk. This would avoid making scars in it, making fine adjustments of its position harder in the future, and the screw would probably be easier to turn as well (no direct binding).
Yeah, I agree, an aluminum or brass button in there will keep the bolt from biting into that bar. Eventually it may make fine adjustments difficult as they leave a big divot.
Looks great! Can you tell us how much Sendcutsend would charge for the parts? I saw below a comment about you selling it as a kit. That would be a good idea.
Very nice, and I LOVE the red and black combo! 😎 I would suggest that you mill out a 0.125"-ish deep slot along much of the length of one side of each Alum tooling arm, where the Kipp is going to touch. You'll find out after many tightenings, that the softish Alum will bugger-up, and then the tooling arms will not go in and out so easily, and the burr will start to scrape away the powder coat finish on the inside. Where that newly developed burr is skidding along.
A very nice looking design. The only thing I see for now is that the belt backing plate could use a lead-in radius to help reduce belt wear. Retired mechanical designer. Carry on!
Wow those parts look great. I used SendCutSend for the first time a couple months ago and also got it finished in gloss red powder coat. They do really great work! I've got my second set of parts from them coming next week for an amateur radio project. I'm not a machinist but it's so useful to have parts on demand at a reasonable price.
That looks great. Can’t wait to see it in operation. I’d love to know how your tracking system works in reverse, if your VFD can run it backwards. It took a lot of fiddling to get mine to track backwards, but it’s really great for sharpening operations with sharpening belts (when making knives). 👍🏻
Nice! I think this tool will change your life. You will probably find yourself wanting the articulated tool rest. It's easier to set your angle on the rest than on the platen, because you can design the rest so it has a home position at 90 degrees, but if you set an angle on the platen you will have to use a square to get it back to 90 each time.
Nice James - dead jealous! I'd be really interested to know what it would cost to have SendCutSend supply all the parts. I suspect the international shipping would kill it for me but it would be useful for US residents and also as a benchmark of what sort of ballpark figure we're looking at.
Well designd piece and masterfully executed! Small idea ....the front top edge of the platen could use some chamfering to bee more easy on the belt lap?
Very nice! I just may have to build one... I may have missed it in the video, but what was the total BOM cost for the build? (assuming you had bought the sheet parts without the sponsorship)
I added a pinned comment. As I built it, it's around $2K. If you skip the powder coating, order two sets of parts for you and a friend, and use a $99 import VFD, you can get it down under $1300 each. It all depends what you want.
I really like this video. The CAD model is a nice touch for understanding the design. Does the manufacturers of the purchased parts, motor, VFD etc provide 3D models for you to use or did you have to model them yourself? 👍
Or put a slug behind the flange nut to spread out the contact area and avoid contact between the Kipp handles and the arm. It could be brass if you are really worried about it.
Ohhhhhh, thats nice! Could one use tubing instead of the aluminum spacers? Say if you knew a guy with access to a CNC lathe that would whip them up quick fast in a hurry.... Oh, and get thee some form taps. Taps that cut.....bleh.
That would also work, and the design should accommodate it. I used aluminum because I wanted more thread engagement, and I thought the square tube might have more potential to arrive warped. Even the square aluminum bars had a little twist when I got them, though, so it might not make much difference.
I custom designed and built my own out of an aluminum frame. I used thrust bearings on all pivot points for the spring coil over air shock design. I ended up using a 1400 watt servo motor on mine.
James, thank you again. Pretty slick design! DFA is used! I have a question that you answered probably a zillion times but what's the history on the Clough42 name? Just curious. All the best James! PS just one suggestion; I would use large feet or another bigger surface area under the locking arrangement on the aluminium slides. The sides will get damaged when you tighten them down which is a pity for such a nice machine in my opinion.
Love it. Wondering if you now were thinking using the same size faster on the pivot would have been more functional. One tool to adjust instead of two.
You could turn down and rethread one of the larger screws to fit the smaller hole. Or make a custom screw with an oversized head. Or just use a Kip handle there. Very functional and efficient design, James. Any plans to sell the files?
@@g.tucker8682 I think I would just put a threaded insert that matches the small hole into the larger hole (or both really). Then you also get steel threads instead of the aluminum ones, which is beneficial where it will be tighten/loosened frequently.
Darn. I’m 99.99% complete - soon to finish Phil Vandelay’s design. I love the simplistic design of your grinder and I bet it’s waaaay more cost effective. I knew I should have waited…. :)
@@cooperised agree it is a sweet machine. I followed every detail in metric. In the US I had to order 3”x79” grinding belts Vs 2x72s.. I’ll be wiring it up to the Mitsubishi VFD next weekend, testing before I cold blue the hardware. And… I’ll be using the Owatrol oil to finish as well. The spark deflectors will be the final phase of the build. I’m interested in James’ spark deflection design…
When assembling the platten plate with the idler pulleys, it's a good idea to put a piece of normal writing paper under the platten. It sets the flat plate back from the pulleys by a tiny fraction of a mm, which ensures the belt isn't running over the sharp corner. Makes the belts last a bit longer.
Beauty…(my humble 2 cents comments) tooling bars need a recess where the lock bolts will create galling , IMO, double tool bar locks are not necessary and you will find in use the second lock will be an irritant, also round knobs are better (again IMO)
@@Clough42 - I'm thinking about trying out this design of yours, but will likely go with an all aluminum (0.50") build. I will make it tilting, because I also need horizontal grinding ability. I will then have the base bolted to a bench, so then 'counterbalancing' will not be an issue, as you rightly point out. The main reason for me to move to aluminum? I am doing more and more wet grinding (misting system) now (less dust, cooler, etc.), and even the greatest of powder coat jobs, still then get areas weeping rust streaks. Like for example. From those holes you lightly countersink by hand, and the tapping of holes before assembly. It's really about the long term 'looks' for me on this, rather than any possible structural Integrity loss. 👍
@@Clough42 counterbalancing the weight of the motor would be an issue, but could be solved in few ways such as a rearward leg or as Steve mentioned elsewhere bolting it to the bench. .5 Aluminum is something that could be cut on a CNC router at home. I'd bet many of us have those. It'll take awhile, but imagine it would be fun.
wow...astonishing. And again, instead of working, I was watching your video. I put me in quite big trouble my dear ah,ah,ah,ah. Regards from a sunny Florence, Italy
Nice job on the design. I think Iwould've used rivet nuts instead of flange nuts for simplictiy sake. You probably could've asked Send Cut Send to install them for you.
Nice Job! I would suggest that replacing the square aluminum bar and the aluminum spacers and resizing things for some simple HSS tubing or crew tube would make this design far more economical as aluminum solids like those are quite expensive now.
Yeah... except that tubing isn't very accurate dimensional, so there'll be some - or a lot - of messing about to make it fit properly. He did it that way because it insures an immediate precise fit without modifying anything.
Imperial countersink bolts have 82 degree head on them? Why, just why would someone do that? What is wrong with 90deg? I am very glad I live in a country with only metric hardware.
The extra holes are aux. mounting holes for future expansion. Very nice James, well executed and designed. Love the two tone colors really looks good. 👍👍👍👍👍😁😁😁😁😁
What a rubbish design. James, you forgot all the DTI's and didnt even include a linear or an angular vernier scale. Theres not even a USB port let alone a CNC controller. I don't understand why such apathy?
I know exactly the feeling you spoke of at the end of the video! I am a mechanical engineer, and find that feeling never gets old, is always just as good the next time and I've never outgrown it! Keep creating my friend!
I saw a video by a Russian woman who made a pretty neato one, about 2 years ago. Did her video provide any insights? She definitely did too much machining, and overbuilt hers. Yours would be more suitable for the home or small business use, and be buildable at home, or with limited access to a waterjet, laser or plasma cutting table. As you said, you designed for most to be able to replicate with files you offer to share or sell.
Your intro suggested that something major may not have worked out as well as planned. If that was just click bait, I get it. Waiting for the next episode(s) to find out. But if the thing works as good as it looks, I am sure you could sell kitted flat parts and maybe pulleys and bearings. Minimal thinking and work for the folks who like to "build" things but would rather spend more time using them. Yeah, the drawings are available, I can buy those and then spend untold time and money to get the flat stock cut by whoever, but you could have those sets made 10 at a time for a substantial savings. It cost a lot to make one of anything. But once the programming costs are paid, labor at the cutters end drops way off. You know that. If you can make money selling them...PLEASE DO. I'll buy a kit if I can get it for under say, $150. That's a no brainer. $200...You may need to throw in a MAGA Decal. Of course, big motors are not cheap...that's just how it goes.
In your next video can you explain why you needed to create those machined features? The recess on the aluminum plate doesn't seem necessary. And the thickness of the spacers seemed like you could have designed around that and not needed to machine those. I don't own any machine tools except for a drill press so now this project is inaccessible to me
The recesses are necessary so the heads don't collide with the bars when tilting. The lower one would collide with the tool rest bar. Either the spacers or the tooling bars would need to be machined. If they were the same width, the bars would be clamped and couldn't move. It would be possible to use shims on nominal-sized spacers. Maybe I didn't mention that in the video.
@@Clough42 Do you need that much forward-to-backward adjustability of the backing plate? You could replace the carriage bolts with threaded studs, and have the slots in the backing plate. You would still have the advantage of steel/steel threads for connections that experience wear and eliminate a machining step.
To be fair, you are watching a machining channel, so expecting to be able to replicate anything you see here without access to machine tools is a bit of a stretch! If you want to build this exact design perhaps you could get a local job shop to do the machining for you?
James, beautiful assembly, excellent explanation. As a hobby machinist, I'm having a hard time relaxing to your videos lately. I miss the solutions to problems of imprecise machine manufacturer geometry, and object to the patreon pay wall over-tone.
i don't know anything about belt grinders... is there some kind of concept of a tray to catch dust / fragments? maybe something electro-magnetic so you can catch and easily clean? dunno... just thinking out loud.
I've gotten a bunch of comments asking how to get the plans. I have everything hosted on Patreon. If you sign up to support the channel (patreon.com/clough42) you can get access to the files for this, and all of my other projects. The downloadable file bundle includes the full Fusion 360 model, a STEP export for use in SolidWorks or other CAD software, DXF files for cutting out the parts or ordering them, drawings of all of the machined parts, assembly drawings showing how it all goes together, and a complete list of all of the hardware you need, with links to sources.
I'm also seeing a lot of comments asking about pricing. In general, I try to stay away from discussing pricing because it's so volatile. I have machines in my shop that now cost double what I paid just a few years ago. That said, at the moment you could build this grinder exactly the way you see it in my videos for around $2K. You could of course save hundreds of dollars by ordering two sets of parts for you and a friend, skipping the powder coating, using an Asian import VFD, cutting out the parts yourself, etc. It all depends what you want and need.
2k for a 2hp belt sander that's pretty rough. Oh well, the cost of diy is often worth it! Great work, looks like a fun project
@@mattmurphy7030 2k for a belt sander that you can service yourself and order what parts you want than have some mass fabricated name brand that will break in a couple of years
I think this is a great design, elegant and accessible! An addition I think could be really nice would be a lasered a protractor/degree scale from the pivot point to the back of the platen support, and added a little indicator needle on the 1 1/4 bar so you could zero it perfectly, but have fairly repeatable rapid adjustments. I'm sure you have a friend or TH-cam colleague with a fibre laser, but I'd happily do it for you if you could live without your grinder for the time it took to ship it back and forth
You should sell these as a kit, just the send cut send parts and hardware. Links to the other parts and some assembly/machining required would be very appealing.
Yes, will be nice if he can give opportunity to buy the flat metal as a kit from send cut send. Please let us know.
Plunk down $5 on Patreon and all of the parts lists, cut files, etc are yours for the taking.
Agreed, we need a kit or partial kit!
Don't that is a good way to destroy something you enjoy by dealing with the ungrateful public people are so incredibly senility god forbid if they say your missing a Lil bolt evendors thought you waighed the full package and it was with in .5 grams or a pair of bolts where way off one had 2 threads more than the other last thing you want is to let the public in your shop
You’re not lying. Much easier to sell digital stuff and left people make it themselves. I think it’s pretty smart.
Wow, well thought out. I bought Jer Schmidt's plans a couple years ago as I feel it is one of the best designs out there. Need to be able to weld to do his project. Your design will allow more folks to build. Can't wait to see part 2.
Awesome, happy to see this.
Check out Phil Vandelay’s video series on his own diy one. He ends up designing in spark guards which make a huge difference for keeping the shop clean.
I haven't seen his, but I already have some idea for that.
Phil is the first to admit that his design is over-the-top, but it sure is beautiful. 👍
@@Clough42 Definitely worth watching, his is one of the nicest designs out there IMO. (Yours is good too!)
Shop AND lungs clean. Some of those metal and abrasive particles must be 2.5 microns for inhaling deeply
Hey mate you did a really good job of that grinder it looks awesome 😎👊 cheers Kurtis
Thanks! I'm having fun with it.
Looks pretty good. I suggest putting the clamp handles on the other side so they push onto the plate that the motor is mounted to.
Very beautiful mechanical art
Clever minimal and solid design, well proportioned!
Excited to see this. Grinders are fun to design and build. I’ve been a big fan of the channel for a long time, and I’m a machinist at Ameribrade so this is right up my alley!
Perfect example of CAD/CAM doing the work. Autodesk really did us a huge favor with Fusion 360. Imagine doing this without CAD? This device is going to change your pristinely clean shop a little - maybe time for those vinyl panel curtains we see all over industry 🙂
Nice job James. The powder coating looks fantastic. I am looking forward to part 2. Thanks.
Great project James. Well done!
Continually impressed by this channel. Im in the middle of building an Acorn CNC cabinet, and trying to follow along. Awesome project! Hope it works out!
I'd love it if you could offer kits here with just the slotting operations and the guide bar machining complete, for those of us without milling machines. Countersinking, threading, drilling, etc, are easy enough to do with hand tools or a drill press, but.... well, appropriately jigged, it would be _possible_ to cut those slots in aluminum using a router, and get those guide bars to size with a table saw, but that's still sketchy enough that I'd rather buy a kit with those ops pre-done.
Great job! By using laser cut mortice and tenon/bolted edge connections you can avoid all bends and the drilled spacers.....The laser is king for this sort of machine. The less manual work the better. I look forward to the next video.
I wanted some adjustability to allow flexibility for different bar dimensions, and I thought tabbed connections would make that harder. It would be tempting to design for captured nuts to avoid threading, too, but if you laser-cut the spacers, it drives the price up considerably, and there's always a little taper in the laser cut that could cause issues. In an earlier version of the design, I looked at tabbing steel spacers into the sides and plug welding them.
Very nice and well thought out design.
Will deffinatly be buying this! Thank you!
Its absolutely gorgeous. I just recently began knife making and i wad only able to affors a cheap 1x30 belt grinder. I hope to one day be able to afford a belt grinder like thia one day.
I recently found this channel and have been loving the content. The grinder looks amazing! I'm a machine designer by degree and profession and there's some design cues that I really think I could use in my own field. I especially like the black on red "42", looks so good. Very well done.
That being said the one thing I don't like is how the tooling arm locking handles bear down directly on the soft aluminum. I'd imagine those will make some pretty gnarly marks over the life of the machine.
Great build. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Another nice thing about the design of those handles, is that even after assembly you can easily rotate those nuts to change the clocking of the threads (and thus the angle where they tighten up). Just remove the bar, push the handle in against the spring to push the nut out of the hex, and then rotate it to the next 60 degree step. So you can ensure the handles all point in a position that makes them the most ergonomic.
The handles are adjustable. Just pull, twist, and release to lock in a different position.
nice design!
Those extra holes were meant to add a parts tray or LED goose neck light. :) Looks beautiful!
Or a small water tank for cooling of the item that you grinding.
cupholder 😆
Hmm... I should not have put my lunch in the oven and start your video.
That timer I heard meant I could have had my lunch without the black crust on top 😲
I love the black&red color scheme - this is one nice addition to your workshop
videos like these make me jelly. so i bought my own shop and ive started to build my own machines. started with a 3d printer, built one from scratch and now building a huge over powered co2 laser. next is a cnc router with atc
Nice build James! A beautiful machine 😍! I can only imagine the mental gymnastics necessary to design all the features and clearances in CAD. I have been planning on building one of these for a few years now. I have accumulated some of the parts, thought about what features I would want, and leaning towards my overkill tendencies I would definitely like it to tilt and to have a small radius attachment as well as different table options. Probably things I wouldn't use very often. Congrats on your year long dream coming true 👍 I've got to get life out of the way to get my grinder built! Lol.
Outstanding! I will absolutely be subscribing, downloading, customizing and building from these plans. Thanks so much for doing all the heavy lifting! I'll wait to see how the series turns out, so I can think about mods. I like some of the suggestions below, and I was thinking about an angle indicator on the idler plate, and putting the speed control over on the right side for easy access. I built a remote control box for my mill VFD, and really enjoy having it close to where my hands usually are. Maybe also a dust collection tray with shop-vac connector...
I’m a new subscriber. Your enthusiasm is contagious. Good stuff sir👍
Looks like a solid design. Also looks like there are 4-5 things that could be done slightly differently for someone without access to a mill. Or who doesn't care for tapping holes. I've been in need of one of these for a while and I will definitely be borrowing some ideas from this one.
You could probably drill through most of the parts and put a bolt all the way through with a nut.
@@ADBBuild Definitely. Not nearly as neat as all those tapped holes. But definitely serves the purpose. The platen could be slotted instead of the aluminum mount as well. Would mean an extra tapped hole or two, with a stud threadlocked in to provide clearance for the tool rest. But then the same design can be done without a mill at all. The spacers between the two side plates could be cut to size on a table saw to a good enough precision, if aluminum was used. Love the basic layout though and it leaves a lot of room for adaptation. I think this could be completely built without CNC too probably. Drill press and something to cut the material (plasma, metal cutting circular saw, jigsaw, bandsaw, etc.), pretty much good to go!
Those flange nuts are a nice touch, I'd also add a shim on the inside, so instead of having the rotating nut going straight into the bar, you'll have a no-rotating disk. This would avoid making scars in it, making fine adjustments of its position harder in the future, and the screw would probably be easier to turn as well (no direct binding).
Yeah, I agree, an aluminum or brass button in there will keep the bolt from biting into that bar. Eventually it may make fine adjustments difficult as they leave a big divot.
I'm excited to see this series!
Looks like an awesome design! Will there be a metric version of the drawings for other parts of the world? X'D
I'm buying the plans immediatelly if they are metric.
Very good
Always enjoy the candy:)
Looks great! Can you tell us how much Sendcutsend would charge for the parts? I saw below a comment about you selling it as a kit. That would be a good idea.
Very nice, and I LOVE the red and black combo! 😎
I would suggest that you mill out a 0.125"-ish deep slot along much of the length of one side of each Alum tooling arm, where the Kipp is going to touch. You'll find out after many tightenings, that the softish Alum will bugger-up, and then the tooling arms will not go in and out so easily, and the burr will start to scrape away the powder coat finish on the inside. Where that newly developed burr is skidding along.
A very nice looking design. The only thing I see for now is that the belt backing plate could use a lead-in radius to help reduce belt wear. Retired mechanical designer. Carry on!
Yeah, that was an oversight. I think the soft steel for the backing plate is probably not long for this world.
Wow those parts look great. I used SendCutSend for the first time a couple months ago and also got it finished in gloss red powder coat. They do really great work! I've got my second set of parts from them coming next week for an amateur radio project. I'm not a machinist but it's so useful to have parts on demand at a reasonable price.
Excellent work as always. I, like you want one but with my own elements. I'll get to it someday. Lol
LOL, The idler support plate looked like the face of a smiling cat when you first clamped it in the vises.
That looks great. Can’t wait to see it in operation. I’d love to know how your tracking system works in reverse, if your VFD can run it backwards. It took a lot of fiddling to get mine to track backwards, but it’s really great for sharpening operations with sharpening belts (when making knives). 👍🏻
You've really elevated the genre of 2 x 72 homemade belt grinder build videos.
What a beautiful peace. Problem is: I'd never use it because I'd be afraid to ruin the surface finish. ;-)
Nice! I think this tool will change your life. You will probably find yourself wanting the articulated tool rest. It's easier to set your angle on the rest than on the platen, because you can design the rest so it has a home position at 90 degrees, but if you set an angle on the platen you will have to use a square to get it back to 90 each time.
I have some ideas for how I want an articulated tool rest to work, but I had to stop designing and start building at some point. :)
Damn, this is so close to my own design.
May I ask what motor, vfd and wheels you used? Where can I order then?
Nice James - dead jealous! I'd be really interested to know what it would cost to have SendCutSend supply all the parts. I suspect the international shipping would kill it for me but it would be useful for US residents and also as a benchmark of what sort of ballpark figure we're looking at.
Well designd piece and masterfully executed! Small idea ....the front top edge of the platen could use some chamfering to bee more easy on the belt lap?
This is a good idea.
Very nice! I just may have to build one... I may have missed it in the video, but what was the total BOM cost for the build? (assuming you had bought the sheet parts without the sponsorship)
I added a pinned comment. As I built it, it's around $2K. If you skip the powder coating, order two sets of parts for you and a friend, and use a $99 import VFD, you can get it down under $1300 each. It all depends what you want.
Sir do you have drawings with measurements I love your design
I really like this video. The CAD model is a nice touch for understanding the design.
Does the manufacturers of the purchased parts, motor, VFD etc provide 3D models for you to use or did you have to model them yourself? 👍
McMaster-Carr provides 3D models for most of the hardware. I found the motor and VFD models on other sharing sites, like GrabCad.
Fabulous 💪
Lovely job James - I think you may regret the ally arms though! Please tell me that you re-assembled with some thread locking adhesive🤨
The black oxide locks pretty securely into the powder coat. I doubt it'll be an issue.
I would suggest milling a slot in the arms. In case those Kipp handles raise a burr on the arms
You could also mill a pocket where the holes got goofed up. Laser etch a Clough42 badge and epoxy it in
Or put a slug behind the flange nut to spread out the contact area and avoid contact between the Kipp handles and the arm. It could be brass if you are really worried about it.
You might want to consider slotting the adjustment bars so they don’t gaul and interfere with sliding in and out.
Yeah they need a thrust Gib or something so the steel screws dont mash into the aluminum bars.
Any feel for the overall costs of the machine?
I added a pinned comment.
Nice design. It's funny, but my (6x48) belt sander design took a bit over a year as well.
Ohhhhhh, thats nice! Could one use tubing instead of the aluminum spacers? Say if you knew a guy with access to a CNC lathe that would whip them up quick fast in a hurry....
Oh, and get thee some form taps. Taps that cut.....bleh.
hi my friend... listen, could you check the dxf files? Some files are missing...the belt grinder is not complete...thanks 😘
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what does something like that cost for send-cut-send to do with powder coating? we talking $100 or $1000 for the main parts - i have *NO* idea.
As far as I can judge, nice work as allways. Why not use a square tube in steel for the tooling arms?
That would also work, and the design should accommodate it. I used aluminum because I wanted more thread engagement, and I thought the square tube might have more potential to arrive warped. Even the square aluminum bars had a little twist when I got them, though, so it might not make much difference.
I've always wanted to build one of those. Now looks like a good time.
안녕하세요.
1마력에 rpm1750 모터로 샌드벨트 그라인더를 제작할수있나요?
샌드 페이퍼 사포 규격은 100×915mm로 제작하려고 합니다.
답변부탁드립니다.
I custom designed and built my own out of an aluminum frame. I used thrust bearings on all pivot points for the spring coil over air shock design. I ended up using a 1400 watt servo motor on mine.
send cut send does taping.
James, thank you again. Pretty slick design! DFA is used! I have a question that you answered probably a zillion times but what's the history on the Clough42 name? Just curious. All the best James!
PS just one suggestion; I would use large feet or another bigger surface area under the locking arrangement on the aluminium slides. The sides will get damaged when you tighten them down which is a pity for such a nice machine in my opinion.
In fact, I bought and read a DFA textbook while working on the design. :)
Please surface grind the friction plate and work rest for some extravaganza 🙃
I think a hardened and ground friction plate is in my future.
Are the plans, or parts available for purchase?
Love it. Wondering if you now were thinking using the same size faster on the pivot would have been more functional. One tool to adjust instead of two.
Yeah, in retrospect, this would be good.
Came here to say that as well, hindsight does wonders for design choices
You could turn down and rethread one of the larger screws to fit the smaller hole. Or make a custom screw with an oversized head. Or just use a Kip handle there.
Very functional and efficient design, James. Any plans to sell the files?
@@g.tucker8682 oh, I like that idea. It's overly-complicated and it'll work great. :)
@@g.tucker8682 I think I would just put a threaded insert that matches the small hole into the larger hole (or both really). Then you also get steel threads instead of the aluminum ones, which is beneficial where it will be tighten/loosened frequently.
Darn. I’m 99.99% complete - soon to finish Phil Vandelay’s design. I love the simplistic design of your grinder and I bet it’s waaaay more cost effective. I knew I should have waited…. :)
Yeah but Phil's is so beautiful, and incredibly versatile. Different machines with very different aims. I'm sure you won't regret building yours!
@@cooperised agree it is a sweet machine. I followed every detail in metric. In the US I had to order 3”x79” grinding belts Vs 2x72s.. I’ll be wiring it up to the Mitsubishi VFD next weekend, testing before I cold blue the hardware. And… I’ll be using the Owatrol oil to finish as well. The spark deflectors will be the final phase of the build. I’m interested in James’ spark deflection design…
When assembling the platten plate with the idler pulleys, it's a good idea to put a piece of normal writing paper under the platten. It sets the flat plate back from the pulleys by a tiny fraction of a mm, which ensures the belt isn't running over the sharp corner. Makes the belts last a bit longer.
Great project! That idler plate looked like a cheerful comic book alien character whenever you set it down with the arc slot facing up 😂
Very nice looking assembly kit. If you got it machined and painted in China could you sell it as a grinder kit and make a profit?
Beauty…(my humble 2 cents comments) tooling bars need a recess where the lock bolts will create galling , IMO, double tool bar locks are not necessary and you will find in use the second lock will be an irritant, also round knobs are better (again IMO)
Round knobs help with interference, but require more grip strength. Engineering tradeoffs.
that is a nice design. what are your thoughts of using 1/4 aluminum plate vs the steel?
It would be possible. I like the weight of the steel. I wonder if you'd have any trouble counterbalancing the motor with aluminum.
@@Clough42 - I'm thinking about trying out this design of yours, but will likely go with an all aluminum (0.50") build. I will make it tilting, because I also need horizontal grinding ability. I will then have the base bolted to a bench, so then 'counterbalancing' will not be an issue, as you rightly point out. The main reason for me to move to aluminum? I am doing more and more wet grinding (misting system) now (less dust, cooler, etc.), and even the greatest of powder coat jobs, still then get areas weeping rust streaks. Like for example. From those holes you lightly countersink by hand, and the tapping of holes before assembly. It's really about the long term 'looks' for me on this, rather than any possible structural Integrity loss.
👍
@@Clough42 counterbalancing the weight of the motor would be an issue, but could be solved in few ways such as a rearward leg or as Steve mentioned elsewhere bolting it to the bench. .5 Aluminum is something that could be cut on a CNC router at home. I'd bet many of us have those. It'll take awhile, but imagine it would be fun.
wow...astonishing. And again, instead of working, I was watching your video. I put me in quite big trouble my dear ah,ah,ah,ah. Regards from a sunny Florence, Italy
Nice job on the design. I think Iwould've used rivet nuts instead of flange nuts for simplictiy sake. You probably could've asked Send Cut Send to install them for you.
Nice Job! I would suggest that replacing the square aluminum bar and the aluminum spacers and resizing things for some simple HSS tubing or crew tube would make this design far more economical as aluminum solids like those are quite expensive now.
Yeah... except that tubing isn't very accurate dimensional, so there'll be some - or a lot - of messing about to make it fit properly. He did it that way because it insures an immediate precise fit without modifying anything.
Imperial countersink bolts have 82 degree head on them? Why, just why would someone do that? What is wrong with 90deg? I am very glad I live in a country with only metric hardware.
The extra holes are aux. mounting holes for future expansion. Very nice James, well executed and designed. Love the two tone colors really looks good. 👍👍👍👍👍😁😁😁😁😁
Yeah, there's a good chance I'll build a spark chute of some kind and that seems like a great place to mount it. :)
What a rubbish design.
James, you forgot all the DTI's and didnt even include a linear or an angular vernier scale. Theres not even a USB port let alone a CNC controller.
I don't understand why such apathy?
I know exactly the feeling you spoke of at the end of the video! I am a mechanical engineer, and find that feeling never gets old, is always just as good the next time and I've never outgrown it! Keep creating my friend!
how much did this cost to make?
I saw a video by a Russian woman who made a pretty neato one, about 2 years ago. Did her video provide any insights? She definitely did too much machining, and overbuilt hers. Yours would be more suitable for the home or small business use, and be buildable at home, or with limited access to a waterjet, laser or plasma cutting table. As you said, you designed for most to be able to replicate with files you offer to share or sell.
18:00 You have made a very happy boomerang right there sir.
I bet you already wish those two bolts were the same size :D
Yes, I do. :)
@@Clough42 you can always mill out the smaller one 😋
Looking great! I really have to get back to my belt grinder as well, pile of parts been sitting here for a year ;-)
I have to ask: Is "42" in any way related to Hitchhiker's Guide?
Why is the standing belt so thin on a machine like this? I'm used to belt sanders with a 3-5 inch width.
Only thing inwould add is a way to rotate it on the side so the belt is parrell to thenground
How do you design something like this?
I got the housemade revolution plans, it was a fun project and a great addition to the shop
Your intro suggested that something major may not have worked out as well as planned. If that was just click bait, I get it. Waiting for the next episode(s) to find out. But if the thing works as good as it looks, I am sure you could sell kitted flat parts and maybe pulleys and bearings. Minimal thinking and work for the folks who like to "build" things but would rather spend more time using them. Yeah, the drawings are available, I can buy those and then spend untold time and money to get the flat stock cut by whoever, but you could have those sets made 10 at a time for a substantial savings. It cost a lot to make one of anything. But once the programming costs are paid, labor at the cutters end drops way off. You know that. If you can make money selling them...PLEASE DO. I'll buy a kit if I can get it for under say, $150. That's a no brainer. $200...You may need to throw in a MAGA Decal. Of course, big motors are not cheap...that's just how it goes.
In your next video can you explain why you needed to create those machined features? The recess on the aluminum plate doesn't seem necessary. And the thickness of the spacers seemed like you could have designed around that and not needed to machine those. I don't own any machine tools except for a drill press so now this project is inaccessible to me
The recesses are necessary so the heads don't collide with the bars when tilting. The lower one would collide with the tool rest bar. Either the spacers or the tooling bars would need to be machined. If they were the same width, the bars would be clamped and couldn't move. It would be possible to use shims on nominal-sized spacers. Maybe I didn't mention that in the video.
@@Clough42 Do you need that much forward-to-backward adjustability of the backing plate? You could replace the carriage bolts with threaded studs, and have the slots in the backing plate. You would still have the advantage of steel/steel threads for connections that experience wear and eliminate a machining step.
To be fair, you are watching a machining channel, so expecting to be able to replicate anything you see here without access to machine tools is a bit of a stretch! If you want to build this exact design perhaps you could get a local job shop to do the machining for you?
That is a beautiful design James. Very nice.
James, beautiful assembly, excellent explanation. As a hobby machinist, I'm having a hard time relaxing to your videos lately. I miss the solutions to problems of imprecise machine manufacturer geometry, and object to the patreon pay wall over-tone.
i don't know anything about belt grinders... is there some kind of concept of a tray to catch dust / fragments? maybe something electro-magnetic so you can catch and easily clean? dunno... just thinking out loud.
There are lots of ideas that various people have used, from putting a bucket under the grinding point to spark deflectors, to full trays and shields.
Another excellent job. Do you sell a kit for this?
alright, i've seen this a lot in your videos, and i have to ask, how do you move without the mouse like that in fusion ?
SpaceMouse
dang it, i just figured out the sheet metal design and you pull this.
Hi wondering what software you used for the designing?