Metal Shaping tips and tricks: Making an Extreme Reverse Curve
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ย. 2020
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In this episode of Metal Shaping tips and tricks, Wray wanted to show how to make an extreme reverse curve on the inexpensive side. He starts off by annealing this hard aluminum (creating a layer of soot on the panel and burning it off). He then takes the panel to a tool he created using an large pipe elbow to secure the panel while shrinking it with our mallet. When he is finished he shows a nice reverse curve from 5 minutes of hitting. All that needs to be done from there is smoothing it out with an English Wheel and possibly another round of shrinking.
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There's no one on TH-cam who explains how metal works better than Wray Schelin!
For real... I went from never even messing with sheet metal to making my own bike fenders just with these videos.. in less than a month. and bought no tools to do it just make some tools out of old scrap and off you go!.. to be fair I have lots of metal fab experience just never even considered sheet metal shaping as a viable thing to get into without buying at least an English wheel and some fancy hammers... I used to buy repair sections now I make them..
Its all a bit vague till 11:00 then it just clicks into place and its crystal clear , a picture may be worth a thousand words , but a video is priceless .
Thanks for sharing a lifetime of experience in metal shaping with these videos Wray.
Good to see you posting again Wray. Hope all is well in Charlton! Didn’t know it was so close to the home of Indian Motorcycles. Must be something in the water there 😉😊👍
Thank you Wray! Great info as always!
Excellent content- as usual !! Thanks, Wray.
Another excellent video! Thank you Wray.
awesome presentation and demonstration, keep them coming thank you!
Excellent! I will need to do a tight, rounded reverse curve similar to this on a car I need to do some coachbuilding on and was just running this through my head on how to execute this. Always a wealth of knowledge. Thank you
Sweet tutorial Ray!
Another good one Wray. Informative and cost effective as usual!
Very interesting thanks Wray
I love learning these concepts. You do such a great job explaining them! As a bonus, now I have one more thing to look for at the salvage yard - pipe elbows!! Thanks, Larry
Great videos and attitude ! Thank you!
Very clever Wray. When you started I would have sworn that what you were going to do was to stretch the center by hammering it down like a hammer form. So I guess the “trapping” of the ends is the magic here. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Wray, use your shrinking disc often in my restorations. Hopefully when covid is done I can come take a class
Hi Wray,
Very informative video. It has been years but I'm still alive and kicking. Congratulations on the nice shop in Charlton. It's so much better than Stafford Springs.
Best regards, Dr. Bruce Vinokur (now retired)
Wray , is there a connection between the barbeque and the torch ?😂😂😂 Another great lesson . I have a book that was written by a panelbeater during the second world war . He made the double curved fillets that fitted between the top rear fuselage and fin . This was all he did for the duration . Guess he became pretty damn good at it ! Thanks Wray
Thanks a Lot
In a future episode, we all learn this is actually for a boat...
Very interesting, I have done similar reverses in the past. I bend the panel in a "U" then clamp the ends with the "U" inverted on the table. I hammer on the "U" driving the high, thru itself. I know that might not make sense. Might help, when you have the panel 70% formed on the pipe and the hard ridges form, heat the panel to 300°F and finish shrink with the panel hot. Very nice.
Next week u can show us all how much fun it is to planish it out 😂
by hand
Loved this! Would like to see it all finished - after you rest your arm! 😂
I never did such big pieces but on smaller ones when I screw up and have the metal fold over, I just weld the fold with the torch or tig (for lack of better explanation I melt it until it blends with the surrounding metal) then keep on hammering. I don't know if it is the correct way to do it but that's what I came up with without having to redo the whole part.
Is there a way to anneal sheet sheet? Like making a part with complex/deep area change?
I just watched your channel for the first time . I think you are a very good , articulate , extremely skilled craftsman and I was able to pay attention and learn from you ! I will be trying my hand at metal shaping and I hope to catch more of your videos . Great work Wray
Thanks Roy!
Wray, I'm a little late to the party but, thanks for all the tips you've posted on youtube. At 80 I'm trying to pickup a few more skills that I never had the time to try early in life. Your shrinking the center makes sense although it seems one would need a hammer form the shape and width of the cowl that you were forming. I'm trying to flare a cowl for a 3/4 scale Miller 91 which is 15" wide at the front and 17" over the dash. I'm in a home shop with a good e-wheel and good assortment of hand shaping tools. The real trick that's escaping me takes place where you stopped this video. That is, 'wheeling' out the final shape of an extreme reverse curve. I've been thru about a half sheet of 1100 and now have a half sheet of scrap to add to the barrel. Would love to see how you intended to finish a reverse curve like the one you've roughed out in the video
using a wheeling machine.
thanks,
Denny G
Sandwich, IL
Yes the reverse curve of a 20s design race car is made using a reverse curve tool like I show in my video. The tool allows you to capture the metal at the base of the reverse curve. By internal shrinking the metal you don't have stretch the top edge of the cowl, which would stretch excessively if you attempted that method.
What do you think would happen if you got a ratchet strap or two involved in that? Like right in the center pulling down? As it shrinks keep tightening it and you can hammer on the strap too so I don't think it'll be in the way...
The clamping on the sides of the workpiece could be more secure.
You could drill holes in the pipe and fasten aluminum screws in the holes. Then tack weld the edges of the workpiece to the heads of the aluminum screws.
I just made that form, didn't have time to finish properly , have a plan already.
Great demonstration of what is possible - BTW Wray, I was following the "E" Type bonnet videos but they seem to end at 10E. Am I missing the next steps or didn't you get around to them yet?
I switched projects to widen the interest of my channel. I will get back to it. I like having many different things going simultaneously.
Hi Wray, thanks for this. One question about annealing - what happens if you've already did quite a bit of shaping of a panel and then you need to anneal. I see there's quite a bit of heat distortion after the cooling. won't that destroy your initial shaping?
No the heat just moves stuff around and it is easily fixed.
Hi, why don't you use the Rubber band on the upper wheel ? It's an optional for the english wheel appositely for the reverse curves
Years ago I tried every option. To make simple rolls (no compound curve) I use a straight tube tool I made. I cover the tubes with blankets. It is a very fast method for making early type hoods. For making very tight rolls I use rubber wheels.
What happened to episode 10f of the Jaguar e type hood
Covid got it .... It will happen again soon.
What do you do if the metal does roll on itself?
You will have to restate what you are asking. I can't understand your question.
@@proshaper when shrinking as the metal starts pulling together wray said the danger is if the metal rolls on itself as it gathers...how would that be fixed if it did happen
Ok, if the metal folds over on itself when you are knocking an edge gather down. First watch closely and it won't happen. If it does you can usually pound them out by hanging the edge of the panel out over the edge of the stump or a strong wood bench and hit the canterlevered part of the panel. That will usually unfold the fold-over.
@@proshaper thank you
Wray I guess I'm confused, I thought you actually stretched the center? If you measured the width of the panel isn't it actually longer when measured around the curve than it was when it was flat?
Yes and no, perhaps. You are correct that the line along the bottom of the U shape gets longer, but the line from one end of the U to the other gets much shorter. In effect, you have a little stretch in one direction, and a stronger shrink at 90 degrees.
Is that it? Not at all - zoom in again and you could compute the various directions and shrinks/stretches for each position, and they’d all be different. That’s the thing with 3 dimensions, your effects compound.
In this case the length measurement was shrunk. The width stayed mostly the same.
toolmike100 the length through the middle has shrunk and is therefore shorter. the edges stay the same. compare the piece when it's over the pipe at 9:45 and again around 15:10. where did the centre go, and where did the edges go?
@@daos3300 I thought if you laid a flexible tape measure from one edge, around the "U" shape and up to the other edge, it would be a longer distance than the panel was wide when it started flat?
@@toolmike100 ok, you were thinking across the width. sure, that's longer than it was - there is some stretching happening inboard of the edges where metal has been moved toward the middle. thought it's not that neat, it'll be more like a bunch of dimples everywhere with the net result being more metal toward the centre. notice where the initial hammer blows are - none at the extreme edges. and once it's smoothed and planished you don't notice a thing.