I used this on a wall where a rain hopper blocked and soaked the party wall. Not because it's damp but as a precaution in case it does it again. There are somethings you should know. It's a fairly large room but only needed about 6ft from the external wall, three drops covered half, it's thin & I thought when covered you wouldn't be able to see it, but with the wallrock you could clearly see the line. You need the adhesive on both sides of the dampstop. Once it's lined you will need to size the lining paper I found.
Not supprised you saw where you'd stopped with the damp stop. The wall rock over the top isn't enough to lose the 'ridge' of paper under it. Yep, go over the Damp stop with the adhesive, ready for it to have the wallRock on (once all dry 48hrs later).. as mentioned in the video, You shouldn't need to SIZE over the lining paper after you've hung it. A finish wallpaper will go over the lining paper no problem.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I have a neighbour who is a retired painter and decorator who I am able to call on. I can assure you there was no physical ridge present after the wallrock was applied over it. The dampstop is opaque and metalised, the plaster of course isn't, and the wallrock is translucent leaving a visible two areas one darker than the other (not just a line in the paper). I have used a pre pasted paper and when applied to the wall, it has sucked all the size from it making it impossible to move the paper to pattern match it until the wallrock was sized, when it then became much easier to apply. Other walls have not needed anything like the level of attention the one with the dampstop has needed.
@@flakieflake9616 The prepasted wallpaper may be the problem. Did you soak it in water? We use a thinned down paste and still paste the paper, no issues when papering over the wallrock fibreliner (which you will have gone over the dampStop with). YOU do paste, with the waterproof adhesive, the silver side of the damp stop once it's on the wall, ready to hang the wallroock fibre liner over, the paste you use for that is also the damp Stop Paste, as other pastes won't stick to the silver side (hence you pre paste that as well to help)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I used a sponge roller with trough of water to wet the paste, the advice I got from next door was to use a paste on the paper and too size the lining as well ( as well as not to buy prepasted paper!) It's the Gallerie 4 SImply Silks which looks really good when on the wall, but it's dreadful to hang because the pattern changes with the angle of the light hitting it. I ended up with a head torch to make sure the pattern stayed where it should when hanging it! The other is a stripe champagne colour darker and lighter, but if you move across the paper, the stripes reverse so you can pick a piece off the pasting table, think you have it the right way, and then when you offer it up, find it's the other way around! As for the dampstop it was the thermal adhesive on the silver side to hang the wallrock and then ordinary paste on the plaster, that part worked quite well and it all went on the wall quite nicely. Of course the paper takes longer to dry as it can't escape into the plaster.
Ok thank you for replying so quickly... really appreciate it. I will keep doing abit of research on it... I've tried everything to stop it keep coming back. Literally at my wits end with it tbh 😞
Phil I’ve had condensation issues with my wardrobes on an outside wall would the damp stop or thermal liner be the better option? I’m sure you’ve came across this issue before. I’m moving off the wall to create some airflow but going to put something on the wall to help
I have a job coming up in the autumn where the room has no damp proof course. There is damp coming through the the woodchip. My plan is to use this product, 2 layers then Albany reinforced lining paper. Wish me luck
Hi phil Used the dampstop adhesive and paper along with Albany reinforced lining paper and it worked like a treat. Will have no hesitation in using it in the future on other jobs
Hi phil Thankyou for the video. Just asking would of it been better to put the paper around all the chimney breast rather than just the face just in case damp goes in other areas of chimney breast or was there a reason you didn’t 😊
This is exactly what Im looking for in Australia, I have an old 100 year old terrace with unudlaed chimneys, which I get damp. But doesn’t look like they sell it here. Do you know of an equivalent that might be internationally available?
If this was a working chimney in the past, then the sulphur salts will find a way out and you should have went round on the returns to prevent this possibly happening in the future, but great video.
The chimney needs a vent fitted, at the bottom, if it's been capped, with a vented cover at the top. Warm air rises through the chimney drying damp from the inner walls.
Another great vid Phil and I'm using some of this kit this week in a good customer of mines house as a bibs and braces for them. Only thing that's thrown me is you said to use the prime coat in a 1 to 1 ratio and not 50/50? 35 years since I was in school mate but isn't that the same mix?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Ah maybe a slight boo boo on your end then bud. 7 min 27 secs in. Must of been a slip of the tongue hehe. Anyway thanks for this vid.
hello, why would you use this lining paper as opposed to insulating graphite lining paper you used about a year ago. why one over the other paper? thanks
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks for the reply, i really did not expect one this quick -marvellous. in retrospect its quite obvious really, you explained all very clearly in both vids, momentary collapse of my brain/thought process. once again thank you.
After watching your original video i used this and i must say after a year it has worked like a charm.
Cracking tutorial phil,covered everything there and a great problem solver.So much choice nowadays.Thanks for posting
Thanks for watching
Thanks
thank you
I used this on a wall where a rain hopper blocked and soaked the party wall. Not because it's damp but as a precaution in case it does it again.
There are somethings you should know. It's a fairly large room but only needed about 6ft from the external wall, three drops covered half, it's thin & I thought when covered you wouldn't be able to see it, but with the wallrock you could clearly see the line.
You need the adhesive on both sides of the dampstop. Once it's lined you will need to size the lining paper I found.
Not supprised you saw where you'd stopped with the damp stop. The wall rock over the top isn't enough to lose the 'ridge' of paper under it.
Yep, go over the Damp stop with the adhesive, ready for it to have the wallRock on (once all dry 48hrs later).. as mentioned in the video,
You shouldn't need to SIZE over the lining paper after you've hung it. A finish wallpaper will go over the lining paper no problem.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I have a neighbour who is a retired painter and decorator who I am able to call on. I can assure you there was no physical ridge present after the wallrock was applied over it. The dampstop is opaque and metalised, the plaster of course isn't, and the wallrock is translucent leaving a visible two areas one darker than the other (not just a line in the paper).
I have used a pre pasted paper and when applied to the wall, it has sucked all the size from it making it impossible to move the paper to pattern match it until the wallrock was sized, when it then became much easier to apply. Other walls have not needed anything like the level of attention the one with the dampstop has needed.
@@flakieflake9616 The prepasted wallpaper may be the problem.
Did you soak it in water?
We use a thinned down paste and still paste the paper, no issues when papering over the wallrock fibreliner (which you will have gone over the dampStop with).
YOU do paste, with the waterproof adhesive, the silver side of the damp stop once it's on the wall, ready to hang the wallroock fibre liner over, the paste you use for that is also the damp Stop Paste, as other pastes won't stick to the silver side (hence you pre paste that as well to help)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I used a sponge roller with trough of water to wet the paste, the advice I got from next door was to use a paste on the paper and too size the lining as well ( as well as not to buy prepasted paper!)
It's the Gallerie 4 SImply Silks which looks really good when on the wall, but it's dreadful to hang because the pattern changes with the angle of the light hitting it. I ended up with a head torch to make sure the pattern stayed where it should when hanging it!
The other is a stripe champagne colour darker and lighter, but if you move across the paper, the stripes reverse so you can pick a piece off the pasting table, think you have it the right way, and then when you offer it up, find it's the other way around!
As for the dampstop it was the thermal adhesive on the silver side to hang the wallrock and then ordinary paste on the plaster, that part worked quite well and it all went on the wall quite nicely.
Of course the paper takes longer to dry as it can't escape into the plaster.
1:01 wangun 😂 nice one Phil
Hey just watched this video and was woundering would this help to stop mould appearing from the damp???
Maybe. But the mould would be more from cold walls and condensation of the room/house??
Ok thank you for replying so quickly... really appreciate it. I will keep doing abit of research on it... I've tried everything to stop it keep coming back. Literally at my wits end with it tbh 😞
Can I just apply to my external wall, or will it spread to my internal walls. I've currently got plaster that will jot dry on my chimney breast
Phil I’ve had condensation issues with my wardrobes on an outside wall would the damp stop or thermal liner be the better option? I’m sure you’ve came across this issue before. I’m moving off the wall to create some airflow but going to put something on the wall to help
Thermal. Have you watched that video?
@ no I haven’t I watched the damp stop one. I’ve just removed the wardrobes and only one damp patch the rest is just condensation from the walls
I have a job coming up in the autumn where the room has no damp proof course. There is damp coming through the the woodchip. My plan is to use this product, 2 layers then Albany reinforced lining paper. Wish me luck
watch my other video on this product, it explains a bit more as well.
Hi phil
Used the dampstop adhesive and paper along with Albany reinforced lining paper and it worked like a treat. Will have no hesitation in using it in the future on other jobs
Hi phil Thankyou for the video. Just asking would of it been better to put the paper around all the chimney breast rather than just the face just in case damp goes in other areas of chimney breast or was there a reason you didn’t 😊
it was only on the face side
This is exactly what Im looking for in Australia, I have an old 100 year old terrace with unudlaed chimneys, which I get damp.
But doesn’t look like they sell it here. Do you know of an equivalent that might be internationally available?
Great ,once you have put the primer on and it's dry can you use normal paste to apply on the back of the fiber liner or something else?
No. I thought I explained about the DampStop paste in the video??
After you prime it with the waterproof adhesive on the shiny surface. Do you then use the normal adhesive for lining paper??
No. All explained in the video.. have you watched it yet?
Looks a good product Phil, have you an idea of price for a Roll plus adhesive. I believe you said one tub per roll. Are they litre tubs 🤔
Check my Amazon store out ;)
Or Toolstation :)
Phil have you ever used Erfurt 4mm Insulated Lining Paper
yes.... search my channel.....
th-cam.com/video/IKe-q2JHORM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=TORlHoCnFqwSkmS7
Great video. Would you suggest overlapping going round an internal corner?
No need. But watch the other video I have on this product .
That has internal and external corners on it
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thanks Phil
If this was a working chimney in the past, then the sulphur salts will find a way out and you should have went round on the returns to prevent this possibly happening in the future, but great video.
It's a damp patch from the roof leak .. only on the face
Have you watched my other video on this product?
Hi I'm trying to cover some damp patches would you use 2 layers. And then a lining paper?
if its really bad, yes two.
but if you follow my video, you may find one is planty
The chimney needs a vent fitted, at the bottom, if it's been capped, with a vented cover at the top. Warm air rises through the chimney drying damp from the inner walls.
what wrong with the vent already there?
th-cam.com/video/6XPfhSrn6lg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tIdB_0-Ts6mTCCV9&t=1197
Can you wrap this paper around a window reveal or do you have to cut it off at the edge and paste in a separate strip ?
I'd cut it neat the the edges. Make sure you brush over the cut edges with the adhesive to make a seal
Another great vid Phil and I'm using some of this kit this week in a good customer of mines house as a bibs and braces for them. Only thing that's thrown me is you said to use the prime coat in a 1 to 1 ratio and not 50/50? 35 years since I was in school mate but isn't that the same mix?
yep, same thing. 1 to 1 does sound good though
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Ah maybe a slight boo boo on your end then bud. 7 min 27 secs in. Must of been a slip of the tongue hehe.
Anyway thanks for this vid.
@@leerolfe5332 correct, I did a ONE 2 ONE, not a 50/50 lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator it’s the same thing 😉
@@leerolfe5332 but I did the 1 to 1 way of doing it :D
Might recommend the clients cap the chimney.
don't even go there..... but it's good for repeat work lol
hello, why would you use this lining paper as opposed to insulating graphite lining paper you used about a year ago. why one over the other paper?
thanks
as one stops damp (the dampstop.. silver, this one) the other one is for warmth insulation.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks for the reply, i really did not expect one this quick -marvellous.
in retrospect its quite obvious really, you explained all very clearly in both vids, momentary collapse of my brain/thought process. once again thank you.
@@tmm3830 hear to help
I have a high gable end wall to do, on your other video you started at the bottom and the top on this. What do you recommend is better?
It depends where the stain is coming from... The bottom or from the top?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator there is no actual staining it is just a problem wall.
@@LeeA-R-p1c what sort of problem?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks, started at the top and have hung 2 sheet today, hopefully do the rest tomorrow
What happens when you come to re-wallpaper😊
To strip off?
I bet it will come off in sheets
Will this work in a shed?
hi, what are the walls like, ?