Man this video explained a lot. When you are breaking in a flat tappet cam you run the engine above 1200 rpm for a minimum of 15 minutes to break in the tappets and the cam lobes. The rings are a totally different thing. They require a load and heat AND the right oil. Man this has never been revealed to me before. Thank you very much gentlemen!
Yeah after I saw I had oil pressure ,I upped the idle to around 1500 and gave a full throttle blip every 10-15 seconds only letting the revs come up to like 2500. As time goes on ,blip it harder and let the revs climb more. At the end of 20mins I was idling at 2k and blipping it to 4500. Mine was a VW TDI diesel ,not a typical V8. After that break in,I got the car ready for a road test and gave it some full throttle load but didn't rev it much past 4k or so. Ran great for years and had like 1/2% of leak down after 10k and 20k miles. People always seem to take it too easy on a break in, engines can tolerate more then you think.
This guy Lake Speed Jr is a great customer service rep! He didn’t have to help me out on my build but did, already had Total Seal performance rings, but he helped me get the new Top ported rings!
AI've always advocated for engines chops to pull high vacuum....for 30 years with bike engines. That and don't let it idle to long or get too hot. Valvoline oil with high ZDDP too.
What do you do if you don’t have access to an engine dyno and breaking in a drag racing engine on alcohol ? What rings should you use on a drag application using alcohol
The info flew right through your brain without stopping. . The dyno pulls ARE the break in. You need cyl pressure and heat. The only way to get them is run the motor hard.
if I purchase a new GM vehicle which has a full synthetic oil, is that break in oil of old days or is it superior not need to be changed at 500 miles or so?
My tuner said dont go over 5k rpm for the first 200 miles, then it's ok. The motor spins to 7200rpm. Fuel injected 438windsor street motor e85, street solid roller cam
So how many miles should I break in my new 5 liter coyote. Used your guys rings. How many power sweeps and to what rpm ? I have a new clutch so not sure what to do exactly
Thanks for the questions. 500 to 1,000 miles is enough to break-in the rings. During that time, you need to make 12 to 14 power sweeps to 80% of redline.
I have a question about breaking in a fresh rebuild , I'm building a gen1 chevy 350 with a factory Rochester carburetor and factory distributor ( no computers ) , its just a clean up , and smooth out the cylinders , and a tow cam , its going in a work truck , my question is , when I first run it , do I set the ignition timing at standard specs or should it be different for the break in ? And should the carb be set rich or lean or set to run ?
Thanks for the questions. Set both the timing and carb for normal driving. You don't need to change the tune up for break-in, so set the tune up for normal driving. Too rich and not enough timing could lead to the cylinders washing with fuel.
So tellme this. My last 3 chevy trucks a 03 a 12 and a 2017 I bought new I just signed the papers and drove them as if they were already broken in and none has ever used a drop of oil? What is the factory doing for hone and rings? IM fixing to build a stock 4.3 and I dont want a oil user.
Hi, For Ecoboost engine Just finishing build with internal forged (stock size) So, the 1st start i should maintain 3000-4000 rpm idle for break in . And should be approx 20min Right?
Yes, you need to start the engine and bring it up to 2,500 to 3,000 RPM. Once the engine is up to temperature, take it out for a 20 to 30 minute drive. Do that with the low detergent break-in oil. Follow the procedure in our break-in without a dyno video.
If you are not able to run on a dyno, taking your car to a track and running short medium load passes up through full passes will also work well. They key component is making sure the engine is under load to break in.
Hi. But, you didn’t say how many minutes ( or intervals ) the initial break-in torque ( load) should be applied at the shown rpm before going to the WOT pulls.
The initial break-in is 20 minutes, followed by 30 to 40 minutes of gradual power/rpm sweeps. All in all, break-in needs to be done over the first 45 minutes to 75 minutes of an engine’s life.
Fantastic! what should my RPM load be for the first 20 minutes this will be on a manual vehicle as well, but I will be doing one on an automatic also. there is a difference correct?
2,000 to 2,500 RPM works great for the initial 20 minutes. For the RPM sweeps, start with going up to 2,000 RPM less than redline. And then gradually work up to 1,000 RPM less than redline.
I hear about ring to cylinder wall break in all the time but what about ring to land, the only info I can remember ever reading was by smokey yunick and no one seems to have ever expanded or disproved him, still ? and he was extolling plateau and hot honing decades ago so how much has things changed or been better understood with advances in technology if at all ?
What if you are in a situation like im in where a cam was added,heads were ported and the car wont run good until all the fuel and spark are adjusted properly?
Good question. You can still run in the cam for 10 to 15 minutes at 2,500 RPM. After that, make some fuel and timing adjustments to allow loading of the engine to break-in the rings. If you can get the engine to produce 85 to 100 LB Ft of torque that’ll be enough to start bedding in the rings.
So i got a short block with a roller cam and they gave me a break-in procedure of 10min 2000rpm, cool down, 300 miles of driving under load with same br40 oil. Is the 10min cycle necessary and will it do more harm than good? Also how would i set up a self tuning efi system to not wash my rings during break in?
@joaquin0023 it was a shit show. Efi was 🫏. Fans wouldnt turn on through the efi. Timing was out of wack i i couldnt get out to check or it would die. Got hot a couple times till i figured it out. My help was useless....
I've been having trouble bedding in the 2nd ring for oil control. I've seen folk talk about needing to engine brake to get oil control bedding to occur. Is there anything to that?
Getting load on the engine and using the correct oil are both critical for ring break-in. We have a couple more videos on this subject that go into greater detail.
FANTASTIC VIDEO'S !!...I'm learning so much thank you ..Question i'm going to dyno an engine soon how long should i leave the (break in oil ) in the engine during the Break in Procedure AND Power Pulls? i usually do about 10 pulls in total the first 2 or 3 pulls to 5500 -6000rpm a little on the lean side 13.5-ish to 1 air fuel ratio.. then change the oil out for a thinner semi synthetic and add fuel and timing for the remaining runs ..am i changing the break in oil out to early?..street/strip pump gas 588ci Boss 429 solid roller 6800-7000rpm max.. i plan to try your moly coated gas ported rings for the first time : ) Thanks.
So after the break in period where you go through the motions of properly sealing the rings, can you change the oil to the “normal” oil literally right after the first few hours of break in ? Or do you leave the break in oil in for 500 miles and then change to a normal oil ??
Hello. Could you please tell me what could happen if the rings can not seat properly? If during the first hundreds of hours of operation you are applying more load that the engine can handle, that won't let the rings seat properly right? Which symptoms the engine can have because of that?
Thanks for the question. If the rings do not seat properly, the engine will suffer from high blow-by and excessive oil consumption. Applying moderate load to the engine will not hurt the engine. Like most things, moderation is the key. Too little load is bad. Too much load is also bad. Moderate load is just right.
@@TotalSeal Thank you very much for your quick response. If the seals are not seated properly, that could also lead to carbon deposits on the piston crown and ring grooves? Talking about the excessive oil consumption because of the bad piston rings seating, ¿Could you please explain me how that happen? I have been searching for info about that, but I haven't found it. Thank you again for your help.
We are happy to help. In regards to your first question, poor ring seal can lead to increased carbon deposits on the rings and valves. Poor ring seal allows excess oil into the combustion chamber, which is bad. Poor ring seal also allows increased amounts of combustion gases (blow-by) to enter the crankcase, which creates more crankcase vapors. These vapors are evacuated from the crankcase via the PCV system, which routes them into the intake manifold. We’d suggest looking up information related to PCV systems in Direct Injection engines. There are some good SAE papers on this topic.
@@TotalSeal Thank you! I realized I wrote "Seals" instead of "Rings" in the first question. Sorry. Just to confirm: If the rings do not seat properly, It will happen all what you explained in the first paragraph, right? Thank you again for your help!
Does the dyno create load somehow?, ive got a rebuilt 78 la 360 getting ready to fire up, roller lifters, can i just use my carburetor to simulate pulls while in my driveway, or do i need to drive it?
Gentleman, thanks for this informative video ! How/what would be your recommendation to break in a 80cc, 4 stroke gas engine that powers a 2250 w inverter generator ? Thanks in advance !
Thanks for the feedback. We’d recommend trying to mimmick this process as close as you can. The key is running the engine under load and then do an oil change.
Thanks, guys! Sounds like a plan: put the generator under load from the get-go, I.e. run some random, high wattage appliances / lights for extended periods of time and change the oil more frequently during the break in.@@TotalSeal
@@bigh3053 Nope, we break-in 2 cycle engines on non-synthetic all the time and those engines turn up to 12,000 RPM. It is important to run the higher oil concentration in the fuel during break-in (16:1)
@@TotalSeal thank you for the replies. 16:1 is what we normally run as manufacturers recommendation. at times 20:1. What 2t oil do you guys run for break in?
With an automatic in the vehicle it’s hard to put a load without it gearing down or trying to go into passing gear?How would you go about breaking that in properly? My winter truck has a 318 magnum that I’m going to 0 deck with a real mild cam and Hughes intake. I’m thinking about total seals? What grove should I go and are they good for a -30 cold start short trip daily engine?
Thanks for the question. As you mentioned, the automatic will have to be put it in 2nd or 3rd gear for the break-in. It is tricky, but it can be done. Just follow the same logic that we discuss in the other video “Break-in without a dyno”.
@@TotalSeal Interesting how manufacturers still keep the same BS in their manuals....especially whats interesting is modern day mechanics with CVT transmissions... CVT's are meant to keep your engine rpm at optimal range but they still tell you vary RPMs. It contradicts the whole process and programming of engine when the transmission does the opposite lol.
@@441meatloaf So true, and great point about vehicles equipped with CVT transmissions! I guess they are more worried about someone over-revving an engine, especially when the engine is cold.
@@TotalSeal I'm interested in your opinions on small engine turbos like these 1.5L Turbos that all these manufacturers are putting in like Hondas to please EPA estimates. I see way too many people complain about CUVs not having turbos but then turbocharged CUVs at 1.5L gets the similar power output just higher torque figures at low end.... IMO, 1.5L turbos is not efficient solution to save gas when they almost all require premium gas solution to prevent engine knocking and misfires due to the high compression rate...Worst part is putting turbos on these engine have such bad turbo lag (while those segment buyers want instant power when they floor it to pass on highways etc...). The torque curves on these cars are tuned to low end torque at 1500-2000rpms but at higher ranges power is just non-existent.....floor it and turbo lag kills it compared a similar 2.5L N/A engine. I'd rather stick a 3L v6 in there that offers way more power without the hassle of a turbo at similar gas efficiency.
Good points. As you mentioned, these engines are not designed to be ideal for the customer. Instead they are designed to meet EPA requirements during their standardized testing.
I Bet This Is Why My New Engine Always Smoked Out The Crankcase. It A Hydrolic Roller Cam And I Thought Engine Break In Was No Important. I Ran No Break In Oil And Drove It Extremely Light First 500 Miles. It Had About .028" Ring Gap On A 3.810 Bore So i Thought Thats Why It Smoked Out The Breather. Definitely Going To Take Brake In More Seriously After Spending $2,000 On A New Set Of 6 Custom Pistons.
I got my 800cc petrol car engine overhauled recently. However, I noticed that it's giving jerks in low gears and misfires at times. Took it to a mechanic and he said that since the engine has been rebuilt it takes at least 1000kms for the engine to become loose as it's tight now. Is that so ?
That does not seem right. If the engine is right, it will run smoothly. Break-in does take up to 1,000 Km, so you might want to check the spark plugs to see if they are oily. That would be a sign of the engine not being broken in yet. Fouled spark plugs would cause misfires.
@@TotalSeal no sir, it has no oil but they turned black. I thought since the engine has been overhauled, the coil and spark plugs were old and perhaps that's y the engine is missing.
Thanks for the question. Load is essential to engine break-in. Without load, the rings will not seal. There are many misconceptions about engine break-in, so that is why we made this video.
I didn’t put load to it at first because there was a tapping noise in the engine. But now I got almost 1000 miles on it and it still got a misfire seems to be getting better but how long will it take for rings to seat?
Thanks for the question. We’d suggest correcting the misfire as soon as possible so that you can move on to seating the rings. If you go too far without seating the rings, the bores can glaze. So fix the mechanical problem first.
Great video. I'm getting ready to do a fresh start up on my bbc with a roller cam and this is exactly the info I was looking for. On a side note. What are the specs on the engine in the video?
Man this video explained a lot. When you are breaking in a flat tappet cam you run the engine above 1200 rpm for a minimum of 15 minutes to break in the tappets and the cam lobes.
The rings are a totally different thing. They require a load and heat AND the right oil. Man this has never been revealed to me before. Thank you very much gentlemen!
Thanks for the comment!
Yeah after I saw I had oil pressure ,I upped the idle to around 1500 and gave a full throttle blip every 10-15 seconds only letting the revs come up to like 2500.
As time goes on ,blip it harder and let the revs climb more.
At the end of 20mins I was idling at 2k and blipping it to 4500.
Mine was a VW TDI diesel ,not a typical V8.
After that break in,I got the car ready for a road test and gave it some full throttle load but didn't rev it much past 4k or so.
Ran great for years and had like 1/2% of leak down after 10k and 20k miles.
People always seem to take it too easy on a break in, engines can tolerate more then you think.
This guy Lake Speed Jr is a great customer service rep! He didn’t have to help me out on my build but did, already had Total Seal performance rings, but he helped me get the new Top ported rings!
Thanks!
That dude on the left.... I don't know what it is... but he's got it!
AI've always advocated for engines chops to pull high vacuum....for 30 years with bike engines. That and don't let it idle to long or get too hot. Valvoline oil with high ZDDP too.
I like many others I am sure, I don’t have access to an engine Dyno what would be best for the rest of us?
What do you do if you don’t have access to an engine dyno and breaking in a drag racing engine on alcohol ? What rings should you use on a drag application using alcohol
The short guy is a great communicater , maby you could explain a few things to my youngest son LoL,, nice video
Thanks!
The actual break-in procedure isn't shown... they only discussed the initial load, then cut right to WOT dyno pulls.
The info flew right through your brain without stopping.
.
The dyno pulls ARE the break in. You need cyl pressure and heat. The only way to get them is run the motor hard.
if I purchase a new GM vehicle which has a full synthetic oil, is that break in oil of old days or is it superior not need to be changed at 500 miles or so?
My tuner said dont go over 5k rpm for the first 200 miles, then it's ok. The motor spins to 7200rpm. Fuel injected 438windsor street motor e85, street solid roller cam
There’s not a race engine on the planet that sees 200 miles of “break-in” time.
This procedure allows you to move beyond the break-in period sooner.
Is a top lube in the alcohol a No No during Ring break in ?!
Great question, and the answer is no top lube during break-in.
So how many miles should I break in my new 5 liter coyote. Used your guys rings. How many power sweeps and to what rpm ? I have a new clutch so not sure what to do exactly
Thanks for the questions. 500 to 1,000 miles is enough to break-in the rings. During that time, you need to make 12 to 14 power sweeps to 80% of redline.
Can we coat the rings in Apeel to break them in?
I have a question about breaking in a fresh rebuild , I'm building a gen1 chevy 350 with a factory Rochester carburetor and factory distributor ( no computers ) , its just a clean up , and smooth out the cylinders , and a tow cam , its going in a work truck , my question is , when I first run it , do I set the ignition timing at standard specs or should it be different for the break in ? And should the carb be set rich or lean or set to run ?
Thanks for the questions. Set both the timing and carb for normal driving. You don't need to change the tune up for break-in, so set the tune up for normal driving. Too rich and not enough timing could lead to the cylinders washing with fuel.
So tellme this. My last 3 chevy trucks a 03 a 12 and a 2017 I bought new I just signed the papers and drove them as if they were already broken in and none has ever used a drop of oil? What is the factory doing for hone and rings? IM fixing to build a stock 4.3 and I dont want a oil user.
The factory hone is designed for the rings to break-in almost instantly. They also use an oil ring right around 8 to 10 lbs of tension.
Does this break in procedure apply to Street automobiles or racing engines or both?
Hi,
For Ecoboost engine
Just finishing build with internal forged (stock size)
So, the 1st start i should maintain 3000-4000 rpm idle for break in . And should be approx 20min
Right?
Yes, you need to start the engine and bring it up to 2,500 to 3,000 RPM. Once the engine is up to temperature, take it out for a 20 to 30 minute drive.
Do that with the low detergent break-in oil. Follow the procedure in our break-in without a dyno video.
So for anyone building engines in their garage this means just take it out and too the track and do short power runs with it.
If you are not able to run on a dyno, taking your car to a track and running short medium load passes up through full passes will also work well. They key component is making sure the engine is under load to break in.
Do we need to break in a small capacity single cylinder engine as well in case of a top end rebuild?? Like 200 or 400 cc
Yes, any rebuild needs a break-in period if the camshaft or rings are changed.
Thanks for the reply mate .....can it be done without testing bed ??like wot on a drag stip just after an engine build ??will that imitate load
Hi. But, you didn’t say how many minutes ( or intervals ) the initial break-in torque ( load) should be applied at the shown rpm before going to the WOT pulls.
20 to 30 minutes.
What are the time duration this should be carried out at
The initial break-in is 20 minutes, followed by 30 to 40 minutes of gradual power/rpm sweeps. All in all, break-in needs to be done over the first 45 minutes to 75 minutes of an engine’s life.
Fantastic! what should my RPM load be for the first 20 minutes this will be on a manual vehicle as well, but I will be doing one on an automatic also. there is a difference correct?
2,000 to 2,500 RPM works great for the initial 20 minutes. For the RPM sweeps, start with going up to 2,000 RPM less than redline. And then gradually work up to 1,000 RPM less than redline.
I hear about ring to cylinder wall break in all the time but what about ring to land, the only info I can remember ever reading was by smokey yunick and no one seems to have ever expanded or disproved him, still ? and he was extolling plateau and hot honing decades ago so how much has things changed or been better understood with advances in technology if at all ?
The rings do indeed break-in with the lands as well as the wall.
Thoughts on breaking in an engine with boost vs NA. Can too much boost damage piston rings during break in due to excessive piston ring heat?
Too much boost early can lead to micro welding of the rings in the ring groove, so we recommend break-in NA.
What if you are in a situation like im in where a cam was added,heads were ported and the car wont run good until all the fuel and spark are adjusted properly?
Good question. You can still run in the cam for 10 to 15 minutes at 2,500 RPM. After that, make some fuel and timing adjustments to allow loading of the engine to break-in the rings. If you can get the engine to produce 85 to 100 LB Ft of torque that’ll be enough to start bedding in the rings.
@@TotalSeal 👍..Thank you..
So for a roller cam engine do you need to use a break in oil? Or just regular oil for ring seating?
It is better to use break-in oil for ring break-in on iron bore or iron sleeve engines.
@@TotalSeal thank you!
Break in oil not recommended for plated AL cylinders?
Can you jack the tire off the ground and break it in, in drive? Will that put enough load on the engine?
Check out our video on how to break-in an engine without a dyno.
So i got a short block with a roller cam and they gave me a break-in procedure of 10min 2000rpm, cool down, 300 miles of driving under load with same br40 oil. Is the 10min cycle necessary and will it do more harm than good?
Also how would i set up a self tuning efi system to not wash my rings during break in?
@@____MC____what did you end up doing? How was it with the self learning efi
@joaquin0023 it was a shit show. Efi was 🫏. Fans wouldnt turn on through the efi. Timing was out of wack i i couldnt get out to check or it would die. Got hot a couple times till i figured it out. My help was useless....
I've been having trouble bedding in the 2nd ring for oil control. I've seen folk talk about needing to engine brake to get oil control bedding to occur. Is there anything to that?
Getting load on the engine and using the correct oil are both critical for ring break-in. We have a couple more videos on this subject that go into greater detail.
FANTASTIC VIDEO'S !!...I'm learning so much thank you ..Question i'm going to dyno an engine soon how long should i leave the (break in oil ) in the engine during the Break in Procedure AND Power Pulls? i usually do about 10 pulls in total the first 2 or 3 pulls to 5500 -6000rpm a little on the lean side 13.5-ish to 1 air fuel ratio.. then change the oil out for a thinner semi synthetic and add fuel and timing for the remaining runs ..am i changing the break in oil out to early?..street/strip pump gas 588ci Boss 429 solid roller 6800-7000rpm max.. i plan to try your moly coated gas ported rings for the first time : ) Thanks.
Thanks for the comment! You can leave the break-in for the initial run-in and dyno pulls. Those first 10 pulls can all be done with the break-in oil.
So after the break in period where you go through the motions of properly sealing the rings, can you change the oil to the “normal” oil literally right after the first few hours of break in ? Or do you leave the break in oil in for 500 miles and then change to a normal oil ??
You can go to synthetic after this initial break-in process. You don’t have to wait until 500 miles.
Hello. Could you please tell me what could happen if the rings can not seat properly? If during the first hundreds of hours of operation you are applying more load that the engine can handle, that won't let the rings seat properly right? Which symptoms the engine can have because of that?
Thanks for the question. If the rings do not seat properly, the engine will suffer from high blow-by and excessive oil consumption.
Applying moderate load to the engine will not hurt the engine. Like most things, moderation is the key. Too little load is bad. Too much load is also bad. Moderate load is just right.
@@TotalSeal Thank you very much for your quick response.
If the seals are not seated properly, that could also lead to carbon deposits on the piston crown and ring grooves?
Talking about the excessive oil consumption because of the bad piston rings seating, ¿Could you please explain me how that happen? I have been searching for info about that, but I haven't found it.
Thank you again for your help.
We are happy to help. In regards to your first question, poor ring seal can lead to increased carbon deposits on the rings and valves. Poor ring seal allows excess oil into the combustion chamber, which is bad.
Poor ring seal also allows increased amounts of combustion gases (blow-by) to enter the crankcase, which creates more crankcase vapors. These vapors are evacuated from the crankcase via the PCV system, which routes them into the intake manifold.
We’d suggest looking up information related to PCV systems in Direct Injection engines. There are some good SAE papers on this topic.
@@TotalSeal Thank you!
I realized I wrote "Seals" instead of "Rings" in the first question. Sorry.
Just to confirm: If the rings do not seat properly, It will happen all what you explained in the first paragraph, right?
Thank you again for your help!
No problem. Rings are seals, so what we described will happen if the rings do not seat properly.
Does the dyno create load somehow?, ive got a rebuilt 78 la 360 getting ready to fire up, roller lifters, can i just use my carburetor to simulate pulls while in my driveway, or do i need to drive it?
Yes, the dyno creates load via the water brake.
Gentleman, thanks for this informative video ! How/what would be your recommendation to break in a 80cc, 4 stroke gas engine that powers a 2250 w inverter generator ? Thanks in advance !
Thanks for the feedback. We’d recommend trying to mimmick this process as close as you can. The key is running the engine under load and then do an oil change.
Thanks, guys! Sounds like a plan: put the generator under load from the get-go, I.e. run some random, high wattage appliances / lights for extended periods of time and change the oil more frequently during the break in.@@TotalSeal
For a 2 stroke 16k rpm engine with 1 chrome ring, synthetic or non synthetic oil for break in
Non-synthetic.
@@TotalSeal I'm worried non synthetic will not be able to handle the rpms during break in. mid range is 8000-12000 rpm. should i be concerned?
@@bigh3053 Nope, we break-in 2 cycle engines on non-synthetic all the time and those engines turn up to 12,000 RPM. It is important to run the higher oil concentration in the fuel during break-in (16:1)
@@TotalSeal thank you for the replies. 16:1 is what we normally run as manufacturers recommendation. at times 20:1. What 2t oil do you guys run for break in?
@@bigh3053 We use castor oil for the 2 cycle engines.
With an automatic in the vehicle it’s hard to put a load without it gearing down or trying to go into passing gear?How would you go about breaking that in properly? My winter truck has a 318 magnum that I’m going to 0 deck with a real mild cam and Hughes intake. I’m thinking about total seals? What grove should I go and are they good for a -30 cold start short trip daily engine?
Thanks for the question. As you mentioned, the automatic will have to be put it in 2nd or 3rd gear for the break-in. It is tricky, but it can be done. Just follow the same logic that we discuss in the other video “Break-in without a dyno”.
@@TotalSeal sorry didn’t even know you had another video. Thanks. Are the TS rings good for a -30 cold start daily driver engine? Top or 2nd ring?
@@chevy6794 Yes, you can run gapless rings in a daily driver, even in cold weather. A gapless 2nd would be recommended for that application.
@@TotalSeal ok. Thanks.
Should I do that in my car, too? It has 121k miles, original engine.
Thanks for the question. After that many miles, there is no need to do the break-in procedure.
@@TotalSeal Thank you.
I'm guessing this is the same tips for any new car engine....rev it but not too high so at least you get that engine pressure.
Correct. Same thought process for a new car.
@@TotalSeal Interesting how manufacturers still keep the same BS in their manuals....especially whats interesting is modern day mechanics with CVT transmissions...
CVT's are meant to keep your engine rpm at optimal range but they still tell you vary RPMs. It contradicts the whole process and programming of engine when the transmission does the opposite lol.
@@441meatloaf So true, and great point about vehicles equipped with CVT transmissions! I guess they are more worried about someone over-revving an engine, especially when the engine is cold.
@@TotalSeal I'm interested in your opinions on small engine turbos like these 1.5L Turbos that all these manufacturers are putting in like Hondas to please EPA estimates. I see way too many people complain about CUVs not having turbos but then turbocharged CUVs at 1.5L gets the similar power output just higher torque figures at low end....
IMO, 1.5L turbos is not efficient solution to save gas when they almost all require premium gas solution to prevent engine knocking and misfires due to the high compression rate...Worst part is putting turbos on these engine have such bad turbo lag (while those segment buyers want instant power when they floor it to pass on highways etc...).
The torque curves on these cars are tuned to low end torque at 1500-2000rpms but at higher ranges power is just non-existent.....floor it and turbo lag kills it compared a similar 2.5L N/A engine.
I'd rather stick a 3L v6 in there that offers way more power without the hassle of a turbo at similar gas efficiency.
Good points. As you mentioned, these engines are not designed to be ideal for the customer. Instead they are designed to meet EPA requirements during their standardized testing.
Great video, thank you.
I Bet This Is Why My New Engine Always Smoked Out The Crankcase. It A Hydrolic Roller Cam And I Thought Engine Break In Was No Important. I Ran No Break In Oil And Drove It Extremely Light First 500 Miles. It Had About .028" Ring Gap On A 3.810 Bore So i Thought Thats Why It Smoked Out The Breather. Definitely Going To Take Brake In More Seriously After Spending $2,000 On A New Set Of 6 Custom Pistons.
does this break in apply to a 2 stroke 16k rpm engine with 1 chromed ring?
Yes, same procedure
This is a race only motor?
Nope. All engines
I got my 800cc petrol car engine overhauled recently. However, I noticed that it's giving jerks in low gears and misfires at times. Took it to a mechanic and he said that since the engine has been rebuilt it takes at least 1000kms for the engine to become loose as it's tight now. Is that so ?
That does not seem right. If the engine is right, it will run smoothly. Break-in does take up to 1,000 Km, so you might want to check the spark plugs to see if they are oily. That would be a sign of the engine not being broken in yet. Fouled spark plugs would cause misfires.
@@TotalSeal I replaced all the spark plugs, ignition coil. This is a carb model.
Did you change the spark plugs because of the misfire? Did the spark plugs have oil on the ground strap?
@@TotalSeal no sir, it has no oil but they turned black. I thought since the engine has been overhauled, the coil and spark plugs were old and perhaps that's y the engine is missing.
Ok, it sounds like the misfire could be due to the carb.
Great video!! But when breaking in a engine I thought your suppose to keep engine load off for 500milws
Thanks for the question. Load is essential to engine break-in. Without load, the rings will not seal. There are many misconceptions about engine break-in, so that is why we made this video.
MC's mfg's recommend no full throttle until 1000 miles.
This is great. But what about us guys that don’t have the luxury of a dyno?
How To Break-In An Engine - Watch BEFORE You Hit The Ignition Switch
th-cam.com/video/MhA_nVRhYew/w-d-xo.html
@@TotalSeal thanks a million!! i'll do exactly this!
Only one heat cycle??
Yes, that is all that is needed. The chemistry of the break-in oil and this method gets everything done in one heat cycle.
I didn’t put load to it at first because there was a tapping noise in the engine. But now I got almost 1000 miles on it and it still got a misfire seems to be getting better but how long will it take for rings to seat?
Thanks for the question. We’d suggest correcting the misfire as soon as possible so that you can move on to seating the rings. If you go too far without seating the rings, the bores can glaze. So fix the mechanical problem first.
Great video. I'm getting ready to do a fresh start up on my bbc with a roller cam and this is exactly the info I was looking for.
On a side note. What are the specs on the engine in the video?
Thanks! The engine is a 410 CI, injected methanol fueled small block Chevy.
allrighty then
how about a Harley engine
Great question. Follow the same procedure for any engine.
I heard from a friend that everything you said is wrong though, jk