Phillip McKnight you're amazing!!! I just love your honesty about everything. I own a LP traditional 2014 which I absolutely love.... out of those 5 things I only knew about the nut/string issue. Les Paul's are lovely to play... I do appreciate other guitar sounds and feel but, nothing makes me feel at home quite like a Les Paul. rock on everyone
me as well - my first LP and it was the 2014 Traditional. Love the tone and sustain. I did end up using a wound 3rd to keep it in tune better - but harder to bend
But by the time you're a grandpa, guitar won't be cool. So your grandchild will wish you, his grandpa, were a X kind of grandpa where X is the thing that's gonna be cool then.
I'd like to toss out a correction, if I may: Most guitars typically use one of the _soft_ maples for their tops. Soft maple tends to be figured far more often than hard maple, _and_ it takes stains/dyes well (hard maple does _not_ like being stained or dyed and it comes out really blotchy; it requires a tinted shader or clear coat instead.) Soft maple isn't one species, but several (the thing that makes them "soft" is that they're not as hard/dense as Hard Maple, which _is_ a specific species. Both are still moderately hard woods.) The dried weight of soft maples is generally between 34-40lbs per cubic foot. Most guitar manufacturers these days (including Gibson) use African Mahogany (aka Khaya), because Genuine Mahogany (aka Honduran Mahogany) is incredibly expensive and difficult to obtain now thanks to hundreds of years of irresponsible over-harvesting; Genuine Mahogany is typically reserved for custom shop and other high-end instruments due to its scarcity. I bring this up because the dried weight of African Mahogany is about 40lbs per cubic foot, while the dried weight of Genuine (Honduran) Mahogany is 37lbs per cubic foot. In other words, both are basically the same weight as the various maple species used for tops. If you made a carved-top LP with a solid chunk of mahogany instead of a maple cap, it would weigh the same as one _with_ a maple cap. The top on an LP adds weight to the body simply because there's more wood, not because of a weight difference between maple and mahogany. Just for fun (and since I'm already on the topic): Sapele is sometimes used as a mahogany substitute (they're in the same family), but it weighs around 42lbs per cubic foot, which is closer to the weight of Hard Maple (about 44lb per cubic foot.) As for why Gibson started using weight relief (or "tone chambers" or whatever the hell they're pitching them as this year), I have no idea. I have a hypothesis, but it's just my best guess as a guitarist and occasional woodworker. Only Gibson knows the real answer, but I'd bet money that it's far less interesting than how their marketing department tends to spin it. ;)
I don't know about weight,I'm only 17 but my les Paul's with the straps feel as comfortable as most of others,the only issue is I usually sit down and I want that cutout at the rib cage but I still want the gibson I just don't wanna start sawing away so I just deal with it
Too many wimps complain about the weight. My buddy's 13-year-old daughter used to play a set with my 70's pancake Custom and guys cry about the weight.
Wow the one about a Gibson being easier to play than a Fender is just the opposite of how I personally feel. I've always found Fender's really slinky and Gibson's a bit more of a struggle. I've never heard anyone say that before. Cool video.
Phillip McKnight I think part of it is how comfortable they feel in your hands. The necks feel smaller and the radius is also more comfortable. And it's funny because you have guys like Eric Clapton who famously went from a Gibson to a Fender and I always wondered why? Then you have Joe Bonamassa who's gone the other way. I'd be curious to know exactly why the change for guys like that and which they would say is easier to play.
String tention thing was really helpful and good to know. Also the scale length and how it affects playability was interesting. Thanks for a great video.
Great info as usual. A lot of people don't know that they can adjust the tailpiece, this is really great to experiment with. No need to wrap the string around it and put marks/dent on the bridge... Just raise it and you'll get the same result !
What I like about your videos is that you are a quick talker your right to the point and it's not lots of boring slow chit chat that so many other provide.
I have learned a ton from watching your videos as a beginner you answer questions no one else knows the answer to or unwilling to shear THANKS A BUNCH axemanslim
One of the reasons to wrap strings around the tailpiece is to reduce string breakage. Less tension especially on the D string. I play pretty heavy and used to break strings quite a bit. That helps a bundle :) thanks for the upload!
+bluesboynate you can feel it through the fucking guitar! Have you ever even tried it? And of course it's a very small difference. But everything adds up. God when will you immature asses realize that guitar is a system? It doesn't matter how MUCH better it is, better IS better.
Been playing an ASAT Bluesboy since last September, played a Gibby Les Paul at guitar center today and was blown away, it's such a smooth guitar. Definitely have to get one.
Definitely agree with the "better playability than a Fender" explanation. I think I'm one of those grandpas that always made that argument. I actually prefer my 2016 Les Paul Standard to my 1965 Fender Strat! Great video!
I never knew about the tail piece/string tension relationship. I always adjusted my tail piece fully down and wondered why my Les Paul seemed harder to play than others. Now it makes sense. Thank you!
Many luthiers I’ve talked to think tailpiece height has no effect on string tension. They say it’s just psychological, i can feel the strings feel slinkier when bending though.
I suspected that the tail piece adjustment affected the string tension, but had never previously given it much thought, so I am now going to adjust my les pauls. The great enlightener for me was the tuning issues because of the string angle at the nut and how it binds. I have a gold top which has tuning issues which i shall try that one out on, so thank you for a great short succinct informative video. I think you convey your message well - short sharp and to the point - which is so refreshing compared to many of your counterparts on the far-side of the pond, who spend far too much time offering unnecessary self-opinions and superfluous waffle. Well done phil and thanks! G
Wrapping over the tailpiece also keeps the strings from laying on the back of the bridge which helps to keep the bridge from going bad and makes sure to let the strings only lie on the saddles. Also, when you do the wrap over the tailpiece, it's good to slide an extra ball end on the string first to keep the string wrapping inside the tailpiece so it's not scratching the top of the tailpiece or your hand.
Strings over the stop bar tail, graphtech nut, String Bulter. Best guitar I own! Never tuning issues any more. Sounds super resonant and loud when unplugged. Sounds great plugged in!
You should do a string stretching tutorial. Im finding that the more musicians i meet, the more i realize that many were never shown how to properly stretch their strings. My friend who i always assumed knew how, asked me what i was doing when we changed strings together before jamming, my mind was blown.
+cheezyridr locking tuners do not remove the need to stretch. It definitely reduces the amount of time it takes to stretch but if i dont stretch even on my PRS it will go out of tune for s short period.
I knew most of these things but have to say after finding your videos I'm a big fan. It's nice for a fun, quick, informative watch that you don't have to commit 20+ minutes to. Thanks, mate!
All Gibson needs to to is drill the holes for D and G in a bit more. It's not like this is an unknown issue to them. Just look at a PRS headstock as a guide. But, Gibson has to keep it original though. That's a tone angle.
+SectionF4 There is no way they would ever change the style of their sacred headstock, after all it was such a major point of contention over trademark and inherent design, during the Lawsuit years even though it was not patented it was assumed to identify the Gibson brand. Notice that an Epi has a different headstock vs a gibby.
They changed the angle of the headstock at some point in order to keep it from snapping off. I think they switched it from 17 to a 24 degree angle. Of course the LP purists wouldn't have it, so Gibson switched back to the original one.
17 to 14. It's not like angled headstocks snap off while the guitar is sitting on a stand. You have to fuck up for it to happen. I've had one for over 35 years, no problem, and I was a real fuck up much of the time after I bought it.
I've had my Les Paul Custom for 37 years, it has been knocked down and dropped in and out of it's case countless times. she still purrs like a kitten or growls like a tiger! I once had to defend myself with it from a nutcase with a butcher knife- Les Paul 1 butcher knife 0
Great for Les Paul fans and universally for other guitarists to understand what 'makes that sound' or aids playability. This session isn't going to replace a guitar tech but at least gives insight into what is best left to experts or should be a chore for a careful owner - good stuff all round.
Love your vids Phil, which are very informative, but in this one you said the raising or lowering the stop tail alters the string tension and the the way it feels. Not quite true, the string tension is what it is for a given pitch, scale length and mass. Raising or lowering the stop tail doesnt change tension for a given note, tho it arguably may give perceive difference in feel when bending. I always set the tail down as fa as it will go because the increased break angle give a marginal increase in sustain and attack which out-weighs by far the slight differnence in feel.
Thank you for taking the time to post. I had this argument with someone at Gibson and I won. I will do a video showing why it does what I say it is doing. Please feel free to post on that video as well. Nothing is 100% but I think I can get you to see a little my way.
But Phil... it doesn't. The only way I can see that argument working is if you used some word play to define tension as something other than what it actually is, i.e. axial force.
Subbed to your channel and i don't know how to play guitar but your videos are so informative and interesting. I will have to buy a guitar and learn how to play.Cheers
Of course it does not change the tension of the strings, you would be out of tune then. ;-) In changes the tension (or pressure) of the strings on the bridge, i.e. how hard the bridge will be pushed down. :-)
Nice and interthing video. Point No 3. is very important and useful. On my Flying I use 10-52 and adjusted the tail piece, to reduce the tension. U can also raise, like I did, the side of the thinner strings more to be able bend easily, while adjusting the thick strings just a bit to avoid being to loose.
Phillip, Are you a fan of ESP/LTD guitars? I think they are a great choice for people who want to get the most out of their money if they are on a budget.
My washburn is just awesome and I paid 700 for a Parralax and it has SD JB and 59. Great sounding and playing guitar. Also looks nice :D. Also Godin makes a great North American guitar with interesting electronics.
The EC100QM LTD is alright for the price, but the ESP LTD EC-256 Electric Guitar Faded Cherry is on sell at www.musiciansfriend.com for the same price. TBH I would save just 50 US dollars more for the Epiphone Limited Edition Les Paul Traditional PRO.
I kind of figured out the stop-bar-string-tension thing by accident. I read that stringing over the bar will decrease your chance of breaking a string, so I did... but immediately the strings felt slinky, almost as if I were playing a lighter gauge... Great channel Uncle Phil, keep it up!
Wrapping the strings over the tailpiece is the most stupid thing you can do to your Gibson, still many people think it's a super cool trick which improves their guitar's sustain and tone. Take a look at Fender Jazzmasters, Jaguars and Mustangs, they all have the problem that their bridge angle is too slight.
Actually Mustangs tend not to have that problem, and the reason is the bridge- Jags and JMs couple that angle with really odd saddles with multiple grooves which, while they allow string spacing to be fine tuned by the user, also allow the string to pop out far more easily. But they were also designed for heavier strings- with 11s as a minimum Jazzmasters can sustain as long as a Strat in similar circumstances. I'd always change the bridge on a JM personally, though this isn't needed with the right strings and set up. When you have Joe Bonamassa and the like subscribing to the school of LP tailpiece as low as possible, strings wrapped over the top, it's almost certainly a valid thing, just maybe needing the right string gauge and set up! This is indeed the solution to most of the perceived problems with Fender's offsets- those guitars were designed to be set up correctly by the shop/user, something which rarely happens these days when guitars are shipped with 9s and often sold out of the box (one of these being Fender's own fault). They require a higher level of player involvement in the initial set up and fine tuning (though no extra in the long run), which people often mistake for a flawed design.
I LOVE your stuff Phillip. ... I just spent a fortune on a '59 Sunburst Reissue and the D string goes out too often. ... Your tip on the string angle at the nut was GOLD. .... Thanks ... fixing it RIGHT NOW.
idk I would argue (although this is because of my body) that smaller radius is better and a super fat neck is also prefered by me simply because I am a giant and thinner neck and flatter raidius dont fit my hand but that just me.
I appreciate your input on the Gibson Les Paul. I raised my tailpiece to reduce the brake angle on the strings at the adjustable bridge. It seemed to help the sustain and bending, and so far I haven't had any issues. Thanks for your video and advice!
I own a few Les Pauls and I'm a bit of a fan, BUT! I tend to agree with you. If I only went by my ears, I'd gravitate towards the SG over the LP. And if stuck on a desert island, I'd have a Strat and hopefully a motor boat.
Thanks for the video. It's very informative. I just bought a 2016 Gibson Les Paul Standard Traditional with a 60's slim taper neck, AAA flame maple top in Tea Burst which has the Burstbucker pickups and push/pull pots to split the coils from Sweetwater. There were a few things you mentioned that I didn't know. Like, the explanation of the Burstbucker pickups and the availability to adjust string tension with the stop bar tail piece. The rest you mentioned I did know. I appreciate the tips and info. Thanks!!!
HERE WE GO AGAIN..........I have YET to see or hear ANY of you younger guys mention THE PROPER WAY TO BOTH STRING AND TUNE A GIBSON "3 on 3" STYLE HEADSTOCK. I will get to that here, but first, I wanna say it's a damn shame Gibson is going to shit.......but people shouldn't judge the fantastic GOOD LP's due to the JUNK they are pumping out now. Back to MY VALUABLE LESSON FOR ALL YOU YOUNG GUYS: Providing you have a PROPERLY made, set, & filed nut.......ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS TUNE EACH & EVERY STRING "WAY DOWN" BELOW PITCH ON PURPOSE, AND "ONLY THEN" DO YOU TUNE "UP" TO PITCH. IF YOU ACCIDENTALLY TUNE "SLIGHTLY SHARP", THEN TUNE "WAY DOWN" AGAIN & THEN BACK UP TO PITCH. DO THIS EVERY TIME YOU TUNE, EVEN IF YOU'RE TUNING ONLY 1 STRING. IT WORKS, TRUST ME. The reason it works and is A MUST for Gibson "3 on 3" style headstocks, is because tuning UP to pitch ELIMINATES ANY POSSIBLE "BINDING" OF THE STRING IN THE NUT SLOT, SO LONG AS THE NUT IS PROPERLY MADE, SET, AND FILED. Another ESSENTIAL method, is when RE-STRINGING your LP style guitar, USE THE METHOD KNOWN AS "THE GIBSON WRAP" ON THE TUNERS. HERE'S HOW>>>> After ya pass the tag end of the string through the hole ( or slot ) in the tuning post, MAKE SURE THE VERY 1st WIND......OR "WRAP" OF THE STRING WHEN TURNING THE TUNER PEG, PASSES "ABOVE" THE TAG-END OF THE STRING AT THE TUNER POST. ONLY THAT FIRST "WRAP", AND EVERY STRING "WRAP" AFTER THE FIRST ONE, YOU MAKE THE WRAPS PASS "UNDER" THE TAG-END OF THE STRING. This creates a type of "locking tuner" effect, because as the string is tightened, the above and below "wraps" PINCH the tag-end of the string at the tuner post. IT WORKS. TRUST ME. BOTH ABOVE METHODS WORK SO WELL TO COMBAT TUNING PROBLEMS, IT IS RECOMMENDED ON ALL TYPES OF GUITARS.......NOT JUST "LP TYPE" HEADSTOCKS. ( except for locking nut systems, like a Floyd Rose ) Guys, I am NOT kidding, I've been playing for nearly 4 decades, and performed professionally for nearly 2 decades........and I can literally count on ONE HAND how many younger guitar players know & use the above 2 methods, and still have a couple fingers left over. AND NOBODY IS TEACHING YOU GUYS THE ABOVE 2 METHODS. THAT IS A REAL SHAME............WHAT YOU "DON'T KNOW".........WILL HURT YOU. The sharp angles of the swept-back headstock of the Gibson Les Paul plays a role in HOW that guitar plays AND SOUNDS. TRUST ME..........ASK ANY "GUITAR GREAT" WHO TRULY KNOWS LES PAULS............THEY WILL AGREE WITH EVERY WORD IN THIS COMMENT...........Now if ONLY someone could RESCUE the Gibson factory, and start making GOOD guitars like they did in the old days........instead of this "hit/miss JUNK" they are producing today. .......PS, I always used the above 2 methods on my older Gibson Les Paul Standard, and my guitar stayed in tune SO WELL........I NEVER NEEDED TO USE "GRAPHITE" IN THE NUT SLOTS.........I PLAYED ENTIRE SETS USING AGGRESSIVE BENDS IN MY PLAYING, AND MY LP ALWAYS STAYED IN TUNE THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE SET. ( You should ALWAYS re-check or re-tune BEFORE starting each new set of songs. That is standard procedure for ANY instrument. )
Is a Gibson Les Paul TRULY worth the price tag? I've never owned one, and never really played one ( I don't like handling $2-4k guitars unless I'm serious about buying) but am curious if the price tag is justified or just there for the names sake?
Daniel, The Gibson Les Paul is not the same today as it was. Norlin bought the company from Gibson many years ago and introduced CNC technology and cost cutting into their manufacturing techniques...they moved to Nashville and the quality suffered for several years. The Craftsmen who lived in Kalamazoo stayed there and started the Heritage Guitar Company..Look at that guitar (specifically the H 157) if you want value for money. Older Gibsons are great instruments but they are not made that way any more. Also, the greater range of Gibson offerings makes me suspect of what you really get for your money. Les Paul Gibsons have so many variations I think they are selling to a price point and not to a quality level...there is a difference. FYI... I have an Epiphone Les Paul that is a great guitar except that I changed the pickups for Seymour Duncan's. now it's better. Also installed a bone nut...better sustain now. The name on the headstock does not make the guitar...the wood and the craftsmanship and the electronics of the particular instrument make the difference. Only my opinion.
Play one. They are very different animals from something like a fender in both feel and sound. I say they are worth the price. They keep the value over time. They only get better over time. They are a successful formula and copied by countless others such as PRS. I've got a 97' special (standards are too damn heavy) that fits like an old shoe. There is no other guitar in the world that I would accept as a replacement.
I never knew that you could wrap the strings thru, up & over the tailpiece. I always took it that the strings should go thru & up over the bridge. I did know that you could raise or lower that tailpiece, giving you a little more control over the tension. Thx, nice little piece of info. 97 Korean made Epi LP 100
Why are the nut slots straight on the D and G strings? Why not stagger the nut slot so it's angled towards the tuners? Wouldn't this fix the tuning issue?
Because the people at Gibson are fucking stupid. And yes, cutting the slots so they are angled usually solves the problem. A little pencil lead or lubricant can be used if that doesn't completely fix it.
Nope. Angling just moves the point at which the side tension of the string pulls against the side of the nut. When straight, the tension is pulling against the top edge of the nut. When slanted, it is pulling sideways where the string comes into the nut from the fingerboard. Those who advocate a slanted slot to "fix" this supposed problem are ignoring physics. If you wish to change the slot's configuration, you'd need to *curve* the slot so it more gently changes the direction of the string as it comes from the fingerboard side toward the tuners. That would be a total pain in the butt and only (perhaps) do a tiny bit better job than what most guitar techs and luthiers do (and why the factories don't do it is to simply save labor time...probably less than $5 per instrument). The fix is a properly sized (width and depth) and *polished* slot made in a very hard nut material. My 70'/71' LP has never needed adjustment or lube. It "caught" on the D, G, and B strings for the first couple months of life until I polished the slots with untra-fine files followed by rubbing with smooth metal feeler gauges. It has been, what, almost 45 years later and still no catching during tuning? When I build people new nuts, I never slant them and they never catch or squeak, as long as the customer provides me with their preferred strings or lists the gauges they actually use. If they go up a gauge, the *might* catch, but we can easily fix it at the slot. Angling toward the tuners is simply not needed. If you don't have a guitar tech or local luthier handy, have a cheap (i.e. plastic or soft brass or aluminum) nut, then use a lube as a stop-gap measure, but it still isn't as good as a properly made and finished nut.
Kirk Janowiak You are somewhat correct, but changing the anchor point reduces the angle and friction. This leads to better stability. It is more important that the slot is cut well and has a slippery surface. And a straight string pull is always better. Your 70/71 LP has never needed lube or a lubricated nut because it is a fixed bridge. You can get away with it. BTW, some techs and luthiers cut them angled.
Very cool. I gave my 74 Les Paul custom to my nephew. Did not know 4 of 5 of this info. I still get to play the oldie and have others to. Thanks for all your vids an info
I wonder why Gibson didn't decide to weight relieve the maple cap instead of the mahogany body, you could remove less wood for the same amount of weight loss but have more overall wood mass, resulting in possibly more sustain. Just a brain fart.
I know that, you could still rout out the underside of it that connects to the mahogany slab. Maybe rout out a chambering in both the maple and the mahogany so you wouldn't have to go anywhere near as deep into the mahogany. But then I also suppose it would be a huge waste of flame maple if you start routing out weight relief into it haha,
Maple is very strong much more brittle and prone to cracking and doesn't flex much. Look up maple bats in mlb.I'm guessing for stability reasons they don't hollow it out, imagine if you bumped your 2500 LP and the top cracked! Yikes! Also the top is carved so the depths of the weight relief would have to be perfectly laid out for spacing and depth, it would add labor and thus $$$ for a minor weight savings. Plus the purists would freak.
Maple is very strong much more brittle and prone to cracking and doesn't flex much. Look up maple bats in mlb.I'm guessing for stability reasons they don't hollow it out, imagine if you bumped your 2500 LP and the top cracked! Yikes! Also the top is carved so the depths of the weight relief would have to be perfectly laid out for spacing and depth, it would add labor and thus $$$ for a minor weight savings. Plus the purists would freak.
I just adjusted my stop tailpiece in my ES-335 - based on your suggestion. And it does really feels a lot better with less tension on the strings. It evens sounds better and rescues the semihollow sound a lot. Thanks.
Although I have an Epiphone LP, a couple of these facts that you provided made a lot of sense to me and allows me to understand some of the issues (tuning) that I am having. Thanks for the great info and keep up the great work for the community. As a born-again hobbyist, I learn something every time I watch your videos.
His point about the Nut angle is spot on. I had to lubricate the Nut on my 2 Les Paul's, both 1976's with original nuts and they do stay in tune MUCH better now. Used a pencil lead trick on one and a Lube kit from D'Addario ($9 on Amazon) on the other. Both tricks worked, the pencil trick is cheaper but messier.
Low output unpotted pickups are the sound many search for in a les Paul. More output isn't better I eventually learned. There's much more dynamics in a low output pickup and today's amps have all the drive most players need. Great info
I was ready to replace my neck pickup (Burstbucker Pro) with a 57 Classic on my Lester until now. It turns out I had a low output neck pickup on my axe the whole time. I'm gonna take the money I was gonna spend and get a DiMarzio SD for the bridge now. Thanks a bunch. You rock!
I love both Gibson Les Paul's and Fender Strats. I play through Marshall and Fender amps. Almost like comparing a Clarinet to a Saxophone. Similar but also very different and both sound good when played together in a mix.
I just had a bone nut installed on my Black Beauty and noticed the angled cuts on the G and B. My guitar guy has some knowledge and this video was great reassurance. I've been lubricating the nut (that sounds worse than I intended) with a graphite and 3in1 oil solution for years on all my guitars and it makes a huge difference. Great video, thanks Phil!
you added some clarity to my les paul "coming out of tune" so easily. i often thought i may have let the string slip when re-stringing or didn't lock it properly or something, but i see now. i'll go back and watch that portion about the nut, etc, again. thanks...
Very pretty les Paul btw. The whole thing about the scale length and fretboard radius is the reason I don’t own a Strat anymore and instead have two Les Pauls. I like using 10s on my guitars and I played a Strat with 10s for years until it just became too much work for me, not to mention I got a GREAT deal on a sweet les Paul special and basically traded my 98 Strat for it a couple years ago. Les Pauls just play soooo good.
At first I though Phil was just a goofy show off nerd of sorts, and....I was right, but, I have learned so much from this guy and have had a lot of fun with these videos, so yes, we're all guitar geeks who love this stuff. And thanks Phillip for the videos, it does take time and effort to do these. Keep them coming, it's of great service to us all.
I was not aware of any of these 5 things about Les Pauls. I own a made in 2002, Historic 1957 Re-issued Black Beauty with three pick ups. Thanks for the info.
I'm a beginner, so I didn't know any of this information. Thanks for sharing. this is why I like your videos, always teaching and sharing. It helps a lot for us newbies!
Wow, very informational! Great vid. Surprised how many I didn't know. To be fair, SGs are much thinner too so that will contribute to their lightness. I'm sure someone has already said that though.
This was good information. Goes to show that even we who've played many years still have much to learn about the mysterious, legendary beast called the Les Paul!
very good video, i have a gibson honey burst les paul 94 and this video is very useful. i didn't know about the nut. most probably i will change the nut because on my les paul the holes are straight(but keep the original one with me) . i removed the original burstbuckers on it and replaced them with some peter florence pick ups and they are far better, very classic rock , very creamy sounding. thank you again.
Kool stuff Dude. I have had a Les Paul since 1973 (Bought it used for 300 bucks) and didn't know that bit about the over/ under strings on the bridge! Thanks! Some Yo Yo painted it black with a rattle can. She was a cherry burst originally.
I was gonna go back to 10’s from 11’s on my Paul, but I adjusted the tailpiece like you said a few times with a quarter and it’s back to playing like it should. I had no idea that’s what the tailpiece was for. The tech that worked on it last had too much tension on it. I love your channel, man! You’ll always have a subscriber here!
Try 9s or 8s. In the 70s everyone used 8s, Page, Hendrix etc... it doesn't make your tone worse at all and you can actually play comfortably. There is absolutely no reason to go heavy. In the 80s 9s came about but 10s or heavier are a new thing and not used on any of the classic recordings using a Les Paul (or any other guitar). In fact they often sound better. Brighter and more chimey but that's debatable.
Agree 100%-I just top wrapped my LP-with .09's-Love the overall feel. Tailpiece was down all the way finger tight. As far as the break angle of D & G string-I tried Tune Voodo (you tube search and you can find it) I was skeptical-but I swear the damn thing works. Thanks for the video Phil.
That was quite interesting. I didn't know about the tail piece importance. I'll lower mine now as I prefer a tauter feel but am not too keen on heavier strings (Prefer 10-42) I think the easier feel between a Gib & Strat is personal pref really. I have both & both are equally easy. I play a Les Paul Standard '95. Fender Strat Plus deluxe '92. Tele '94. Ernie Ball Musicman '92. I use a Marshall JVM 410C May change as they weigh a ton but have been a Marshall user for many decades. The reason 90's guitars sit well with me is because they are old enough to be properly made, feel good to the touch, usually have a few dings so don't worry about every little knock or scuff & because they are not SO old that they cost an arm & a leg & maybe a kidney. In that respect I get a good solid working guitar that responds & sounds the way a pro standard guitar should. Needless to say I have played different guitars PRS ESP Jackson Ibanez but afore mentioned guitars are keepers as they cover all the bases.
Thanks for enlightening me to the reason a les paul has a problem staying in tune. I just watched a video on the KM les paul and it was said it doesn't jump out of tune, so I will have to go back and see if the string routing is a bit different I also am happy to learn that the tailpiece height makes such a difference. Thanks for sharing this
Thanks for mentioning the 'ting' that can happen in the nut. It had been happening to me lately, and I was thinking maybe one of my tuning pegs was going bad - like a gear tooth was compromised or something. Hopefully not!
Thanks that was very informative! I feel like less of a novice about my own gear... I really like the maple is heavier than mahogany.. Makes sense why a mahogany neck gets dents so easily and not maple..
Right on. I've got a '72 Deluxe that I bought for $300 in '79. Serial # on the neck is from 1967 but I they didn't make deluxe's back then so I'm guessing it's a '72. Love that guitar.
you can tell if it,s a 72 by the volute at the top of the neck..I have a 1970 delux and it has a a 1960 serial No... Gibson are renoun for re-useing them... also some deluxes have Deluxe under the Les Paul decal instead of model
I really recommend putting on a compensated nut, it really corrects the out of tune sound on open cords and also helps with tuning issues. by far the best up grade u can do and cheap.
Just learnt something about scale lengths between Gibson/Fender. All these years and I didn’t know... cheers! (And I own both). Personally I like playing them both equally. Different horses for different courses.
Interesting video. Funnily enough, I own both a Strat and a Les Paul and find the Strat easier to play, despite the longer scale length. Horses for courses I guess. Obviously, they have two very distinct sounds and whenever I learn a new tune I like to try it out on both guitars to see which sound I prefer.
Great videos across the board, thanks! Loved the Fender American vs Mexico comparison; I've always maintained that my Japanese strat plays better than most American models I have tried, but I'm sure it comes down to each individual instrument.
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#6. Gibsons smell fantastic when you remove them from their cases.
YES! I though I was the only one who loved that - i dunno - vanillaish smell? Not sweet or sickening, just nice.
Mahogany does.
It's the laquer
Vanilla like. Mine is yum.
They need to make a car freshener with that scent.
I like that this time the title says 'may not know' instead of 'don't know'
@Falcon Arcade Gaming Should be called things that YOU already know about the Gibson Les Paul
@@aneasyonesoicanremember6933 yeah for real this stuff isn’t common knowledge to all guitar players. Especially the younger generations
I tried the pencil lubricating trick on my nuts??? I ended up getting a ride in an ambulance.
loadi2 wtf
loadi2 funniest shit I've read
Which pencil did you use. Mechanical or classic #2
Please say it's not the nuts that on your body..
GOD DAMMIT
Nobody on the web explains things like this: simple, to the point, no extra unimportant info. This is how info should be given, top marks.
The info in your videos is the exactly the reason why I donate to your channel. Thank you Phil I love watching your videos
Thank you
Phillip McKnight you're amazing!!! I just love your honesty about everything.
I own a LP traditional 2014 which I absolutely love.... out of those 5 things I only knew about the nut/string issue.
Les Paul's are lovely to play... I do appreciate other guitar sounds and feel but, nothing makes me feel at home quite like a Les Paul.
rock on everyone
Yes! I also own the 2014 Traditional... The best guitar I've ever played!
me as well - my first LP and it was the 2014 Traditional. Love the tone and sustain. I did end up using a wound 3rd to keep it in tune better - but harder to bend
I wish my grampa had a Gibson and a Fender :(
I'm gonna be that kind of grampa. I need to
i am that sort of grand pa!
Adopt me!
I'm almost there and none of them enjoy playing like I do so it wont mean much. Or so I think anyway(until they find out the value)!
But by the time you're a grandpa, guitar won't be cool. So your grandchild will wish you, his grandpa, were a X kind of grandpa where X is the thing that's gonna be cool then.
@@EnterJustice Guitar will always be cool.
Didn’t know about the slightly shorter scale, and therefore less tension. Makes sense about bending. Thanks for explaining.
My Les Paul Junior is next to my Strat and the nut actually sits higher, but when you measure the entire length, it really is shorter.
Fender Offset guitars have an even shorter scale length than Gibson's.
I'd like to toss out a correction, if I may:
Most guitars typically use one of the _soft_ maples for their tops. Soft maple tends to be figured far more often than hard maple, _and_ it takes stains/dyes well (hard maple does _not_ like being stained or dyed and it comes out really blotchy; it requires a tinted shader or clear coat instead.) Soft maple isn't one species, but several (the thing that makes them "soft" is that they're not as hard/dense as Hard Maple, which _is_ a specific species. Both are still moderately hard woods.) The dried weight of soft maples is generally between 34-40lbs per cubic foot. Most guitar manufacturers these days (including Gibson) use African Mahogany (aka Khaya), because Genuine Mahogany (aka Honduran Mahogany) is incredibly expensive and difficult to obtain now thanks to hundreds of years of irresponsible over-harvesting; Genuine Mahogany is typically reserved for custom shop and other high-end instruments due to its scarcity.
I bring this up because the dried weight of African Mahogany is about 40lbs per cubic foot, while the dried weight of Genuine (Honduran) Mahogany is 37lbs per cubic foot. In other words, both are basically the same weight as the various maple species used for tops. If you made a carved-top LP with a solid chunk of mahogany instead of a maple cap, it would weigh the same as one _with_ a maple cap. The top on an LP adds weight to the body simply because there's more wood, not because of a weight difference between maple and mahogany.
Just for fun (and since I'm already on the topic): Sapele is sometimes used as a mahogany substitute (they're in the same family), but it weighs around 42lbs per cubic foot, which is closer to the weight of Hard Maple (about 44lb per cubic foot.)
As for why Gibson started using weight relief (or "tone chambers" or whatever the hell they're pitching them as this year), I have no idea. I have a hypothesis, but it's just my best guess as a guitarist and occasional woodworker. Only Gibson knows the real answer, but I'd bet money that it's far less interesting than how their marketing department tends to spin it. ;)
I don't know about weight,I'm only 17 but my les Paul's with the straps feel as comfortable as most of others,the only issue is I usually sit down and I want that cutout at the rib cage but I still want the gibson I just don't wanna start sawing away so I just deal with it
Subliminal S4M lmfao
Too many wimps complain about the weight. My buddy's 13-year-old daughter used to play a set with my 70's pancake Custom and guys cry about the weight.
catdumpling didn't read all that but I have a full mahogany guitar neck and body :3
what happened to the "take a breather son" comment? that had me laughing out loud
Nice info on the burst-buckers; I never realized they weren't potted!
PGH Guitarman Only the 1, 2 and 3 versions aren’t potted. The Pro versions are.
I had no idea either
Wow the one about a Gibson being easier to play than a Fender is just the opposite of how I personally feel. I've always found Fender's really slinky and Gibson's a bit more of a struggle. I've never heard anyone say that before. Cool video.
I feel strats are easer as well, but you and I are in the minority. lol.
Phillip McKnight I think part of it is how comfortable they feel in your hands. The necks feel smaller and the radius is also more comfortable. And it's funny because you have guys like Eric Clapton who famously went from a Gibson to a Fender and I always wondered why? Then you have Joe Bonamassa who's gone the other way. I'd be curious to know exactly why the change for guys like that and which they would say is easier to play.
indeed, S series stratocasters feel as if they don't like to be played, sort of like stroking the cat that hates it, so it pushes you away and bites
Put a set of 10s on a Gibson and the same on a Fender and the Gibson will seem easier to play.
i have 11s on both sg and tele, sg is a bit softer on the fingertips true...
This is the only guy who knows anything worth sharing. Again, I've learnt something new. Thank You Mr. McKnight.
String tention thing was really helpful and good to know. Also the scale length and how it affects playability was interesting. Thanks for a great video.
Great info as usual. A lot of people don't know that they can adjust the tailpiece, this is really great to experiment with. No need to wrap the string around it and put marks/dent on the bridge... Just raise it and you'll get the same result !
Great video Phillip. Funny, I already knew all of that stuff, but I still watched because you do an excellent job at keeping it interesting.
What I like about your videos is that you are a quick talker your right to the point and it's not lots of boring slow chit chat that so many other provide.
I'd love one about the Tele!
I think that is a good idea, Thank you for posting
This should start to become a series
No problem! Love your videos. Keeps me inspired to keep playing!
this SHOULD be a series
Did you not hear his opening comment??
As a Les Paul owner myself, I found this video very enlightening! Great job!
#6 Barely bump it and the head falls off.
Haha, you beat me to it!
that would be in the "things you probably knew" list lol.
Guess what happened when I knocked my 335 over carrying a bass drum.
Why did you do that?
wall hanger too close to the ceiling - yep, me too!
I have learned a ton from watching your videos as a beginner you answer questions no one else knows the answer to or unwilling to shear THANKS A BUNCH axemanslim
One of the reasons to wrap strings around the tailpiece is to reduce string breakage. Less tension especially on the D string. I play pretty heavy and used to break strings quite a bit. That helps a bundle :) thanks for the upload!
Just RAISE the tailpiece. The ADJUSTMENT SCREWS are there for a reason.
Phil X just raps his d string around the tailpiece - because it has the thinnest core. He may rap the high e string as well...
+bluesboynate you get more sustain from having the tailpiece locked down to the body
MrBingping Bullshit.
Maybe a millisecond. Show me some scientific proof, not guitar players' old wives' tales.
+bluesboynate you can feel it through the fucking guitar! Have you ever even tried it? And of course it's a very small difference. But everything adds up. God when will you immature asses realize that guitar is a system? It doesn't matter how MUCH better it is, better IS better.
Been playing an ASAT Bluesboy since last September, played a Gibby Les Paul at guitar center today and was blown away, it's such a smooth guitar. Definitely have to get one.
#1 is a little off; the Burstbucker Pro is wax potted.
I still have my grandpas gibson.. it still rocks
guitar facts and trivia are
always great for guitar players. Phillip, thanks for these videos.
Definitely agree with the "better playability than a Fender" explanation. I think I'm one of those grandpas that always made that argument. I actually prefer my 2016 Les Paul Standard to my 1965 Fender Strat! Great video!
I never knew about the tail piece/string tension relationship. I always adjusted my tail piece fully down and wondered why my Les Paul seemed harder to play than others. Now it makes sense. Thank you!
Many luthiers I’ve talked to think tailpiece height has no effect on string tension. They say it’s just psychological, i can feel the strings feel slinkier when bending though.
I suspected that the tail piece adjustment affected the string tension, but had never previously given it much thought, so I am now going to adjust my les pauls. The great enlightener for me was the tuning issues because of the string angle at the nut and how it binds. I have a gold top which has tuning issues which i shall try that one out on, so thank you for a great short succinct informative video. I think you convey your message well - short sharp and to the point - which is so refreshing compared to many of your counterparts on the far-side of the pond, who spend far too much time offering unnecessary self-opinions and superfluous waffle. Well done phil and thanks! G
Wrapping over the tailpiece also keeps the strings from laying on the back of the bridge which helps to keep the bridge from going bad and makes sure to let the strings only lie on the saddles. Also, when you do the wrap over the tailpiece, it's good to slide an extra ball end on the string first to keep the string wrapping inside the tailpiece so it's not scratching the top of the tailpiece or your hand.
It would be interesting to see a picture of what you mean. I don't think I ever saw this tip mentioned elsewhere...
@@EmopunkDr
o------- string
O||------ string with the eye from the old string slid on
@@j.wright5918 got it, thanks
Strings over the stop bar tail, graphtech nut, String Bulter. Best guitar I own! Never tuning issues any more. Sounds super resonant and loud when unplugged. Sounds great plugged in!
You should do a string stretching tutorial. Im finding that the more musicians i meet, the more i realize that many were never shown how to properly stretch their strings. My friend who i always assumed knew how, asked me what i was doing when we changed strings together before jamming, my mind was blown.
Dang, I thought everybody knew to do this.
oh yeah lol. i don't stretch my strings at all when I replace them. i just go slowly and steadily because i love doing it lol.
+cheezyridr locking tuners do not remove the need to stretch. It definitely reduces the amount of time it takes to stretch but if i dont stretch even on my PRS it will go out of tune for s short period.
you do know the string isnt actually stretching, right?
Jukebox yes it is. Once each string is stretched the playability is alot smoother
I knew most of these things but have to say after finding your videos I'm a big fan. It's nice for a fun, quick, informative watch that you don't have to commit 20+ minutes to. Thanks, mate!
I actually took my les Paul to my tech guy and he actually cut a new nut that's angled and I have no more tuning issues
All Gibson needs to to is drill the holes for D and G in a bit more. It's not like this is an unknown issue to them. Just look at a PRS headstock as a guide. But, Gibson has to keep it original though. That's a tone angle.
+SectionF4 There is no way they would ever change the style of their sacred headstock, after all it was such a major point of contention over trademark and inherent design, during the Lawsuit years even though it was not patented it was assumed to identify the Gibson brand. Notice that an Epi has a different headstock vs a gibby.
They changed the angle of the headstock at some point in order to keep it from snapping off. I think they switched it from 17 to a 24 degree angle. Of course the LP purists wouldn't have it, so Gibson switched back to the original one.
17 to 14. It's not like angled headstocks snap off while the guitar is sitting on a stand. You have to fuck up for it to happen. I've had one for over 35 years, no problem, and I was a real fuck up much of the time after I bought it.
I've had my Les Paul Custom for 37 years, it has been knocked down and dropped in and out of it's case countless times. she still purrs like a kitten or growls like a tiger! I once had to defend myself with it from a nutcase with a butcher knife- Les Paul 1 butcher knife 0
Bought my first Gibson Les Paul today and now I'm even happier about my decision! Fantastic video
I put a brass nut on my 1981 Standard and it never goes out of tune.
Great for Les Paul fans and universally for other guitarists to understand what 'makes that sound' or aids playability. This session isn't going to replace a guitar tech but at least gives insight into what is best left to experts or should be a chore for a careful owner - good stuff all round.
It didn't occur to me to change the tailpiece height. Sounds like something to consider.
I tried it a little over 6 years ago I’d never go back it makes the action nice and light
But I over wrapped
I've always felt a Gibson was easier to play, now I know why! Great video I keep coming back learning new things.
Love your vids Phil, which are very informative, but in this one you said the raising or lowering the stop tail alters the string tension and the the way it feels. Not quite true, the string tension is what it is for a given pitch, scale length and mass. Raising or lowering the stop tail doesnt change tension for a given note, tho it arguably may give perceive difference in feel when bending. I always set the tail down as fa as it will go because the increased break angle give a marginal increase in sustain and attack which out-weighs by far the slight differnence in feel.
Thank you for taking the time to post. I had this argument with someone at Gibson and I won. I will do a video showing why it does what I say it is doing. Please feel free to post on that video as well. Nothing is 100% but I think I can get you to see a little my way.
But Phil... it doesn't. The only way I can see that argument working is if you used some word play to define tension as something other than what it actually is, i.e. axial force.
Subbed to your channel and i don't know how to play guitar but your videos are so informative and interesting. I will have to buy a guitar and learn how to play.Cheers
Of course it does not change the tension of the strings, you would be out of tune then. ;-) In changes the tension (or pressure) of the strings on the bridge, i.e. how hard the bridge will be pushed down. :-)
Additionally, lowering the stop bar places more mass into the body resulting in increased sustain.
Nice and interthing video. Point No 3. is very important and useful. On my Flying I use 10-52 and adjusted the tail piece, to reduce the tension. U can also raise, like I did, the side of the thinner strings more to be able bend easily, while adjusting the thick strings just a bit to avoid being to loose.
Phillip, Are you a fan of ESP/LTD guitars? I think they are a great choice for people who want to get the most out of their money if they are on a budget.
Zoinks!
My washburn is just awesome and I paid 700 for a Parralax and it has SD JB and 59. Great sounding and playing guitar. Also looks nice :D. Also Godin makes a great North American guitar with interesting electronics.
I have an LTD EC1000 and it plays way better than my american fender strat, but the lower quality of the woods is noticeable.
The EC100QM LTD is alright for the price, but the ESP LTD EC-256 Electric Guitar Faded Cherry is on sell at www.musiciansfriend.com for the same price. TBH I would save just 50 US dollars more for the Epiphone Limited Edition Les Paul Traditional PRO.
I kind of figured out the stop-bar-string-tension thing by accident. I read that stringing over the bar will decrease your chance of breaking a string, so I did... but immediately the strings felt slinky, almost as if I were playing a lighter gauge...
Great channel Uncle Phil, keep it up!
Wrapping the strings over the tailpiece is the most stupid thing you can do to your Gibson, still many people think it's a super cool trick which improves their guitar's sustain and tone. Take a look at Fender Jazzmasters, Jaguars and Mustangs, they all have the problem that their bridge angle is too slight.
Actually Mustangs tend not to have that problem, and the reason is the bridge- Jags and JMs couple that angle with really odd saddles with multiple grooves which, while they allow string spacing to be fine tuned by the user, also allow the string to pop out far more easily. But they were also designed for heavier strings- with 11s as a minimum Jazzmasters can sustain as long as a Strat in similar circumstances. I'd always change the bridge on a JM personally, though this isn't needed with the right strings and set up. When you have Joe Bonamassa and the like subscribing to the school of LP tailpiece as low as possible, strings wrapped over the top, it's almost certainly a valid thing, just maybe needing the right string gauge and set up! This is indeed the solution to most of the perceived problems with Fender's offsets- those guitars were designed to be set up correctly by the shop/user, something which rarely happens these days when guitars are shipped with 9s and often sold out of the box (one of these being Fender's own fault). They require a higher level of player involvement in the initial set up and fine tuning (though no extra in the long run), which people often mistake for a flawed design.
I LOVE your stuff Phillip. ... I just spent a fortune on a '59 Sunburst Reissue and the D string goes out too often. ... Your tip on the string angle at the nut was GOLD. .... Thanks ... fixing it RIGHT NOW.
Hey Phillip if you don't mind me asking what year is that les Paul. Thanks
2005
idk I would argue (although this is because of my body) that smaller radius is better and a super fat neck is also prefered by me simply because I am a giant and thinner neck and flatter raidius dont fit my hand but that just me.
I appreciate your input on the Gibson Les Paul. I raised my tailpiece to reduce the brake angle on the strings at the adjustable bridge. It seemed to help the sustain and bending, and so far I haven't had any issues. Thanks for your video and advice!
Not a fan of Gibson Les Paul, I am a Fender guy but if I ever owned a Gibson, I'd choose an SG.
I own a few Les Pauls and I'm a bit of a fan, BUT! I tend to agree with you. If I only went by my ears, I'd gravitate towards the SG over the LP. And if stuck on a desert island, I'd have a Strat and hopefully a motor boat.
Thanks for the video. It's very informative. I just bought a 2016 Gibson Les Paul Standard Traditional with a 60's slim taper neck, AAA flame maple top in Tea Burst which has the Burstbucker pickups and push/pull pots to split the coils from Sweetwater. There were a few things you mentioned that I didn't know. Like, the explanation of the Burstbucker pickups and the availability to adjust string tension with the stop bar tail piece. The rest you mentioned I did know. I appreciate the tips and info. Thanks!!!
HERE WE GO AGAIN..........I have YET to see or hear ANY of you younger guys mention THE PROPER WAY TO BOTH STRING AND TUNE A GIBSON "3 on 3" STYLE HEADSTOCK. I will get to that here, but first, I wanna say it's a damn shame Gibson is going to shit.......but people shouldn't judge the fantastic GOOD LP's due to the JUNK they are pumping out now. Back to MY VALUABLE LESSON FOR ALL YOU YOUNG GUYS: Providing you have a PROPERLY made, set, & filed nut.......ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS TUNE EACH & EVERY STRING "WAY DOWN" BELOW PITCH ON PURPOSE, AND "ONLY THEN" DO YOU TUNE "UP" TO PITCH. IF YOU ACCIDENTALLY TUNE "SLIGHTLY SHARP", THEN TUNE "WAY DOWN" AGAIN & THEN BACK UP TO PITCH. DO THIS EVERY TIME YOU TUNE, EVEN IF YOU'RE TUNING ONLY 1 STRING. IT WORKS, TRUST ME. The reason it works and is A MUST for Gibson "3 on 3" style headstocks, is because tuning UP to pitch ELIMINATES ANY POSSIBLE "BINDING" OF THE STRING IN THE NUT SLOT, SO LONG AS THE NUT IS PROPERLY MADE, SET, AND FILED. Another ESSENTIAL method, is when RE-STRINGING your LP style guitar, USE THE METHOD KNOWN AS "THE GIBSON WRAP" ON THE TUNERS. HERE'S HOW>>>> After ya pass the tag end of the string through the hole ( or slot ) in the tuning post, MAKE SURE THE VERY 1st WIND......OR "WRAP" OF THE STRING WHEN TURNING THE TUNER PEG, PASSES "ABOVE" THE TAG-END OF THE STRING AT THE TUNER POST. ONLY THAT FIRST "WRAP", AND EVERY STRING "WRAP" AFTER THE FIRST ONE, YOU MAKE THE WRAPS PASS "UNDER" THE TAG-END OF THE STRING. This creates a type of "locking tuner" effect, because as the string is tightened, the above and below "wraps" PINCH the tag-end of the string at the tuner post. IT WORKS. TRUST ME. BOTH ABOVE METHODS WORK SO WELL TO COMBAT TUNING PROBLEMS, IT IS RECOMMENDED ON ALL TYPES OF GUITARS.......NOT JUST "LP TYPE" HEADSTOCKS. ( except for locking nut systems, like a Floyd Rose ) Guys, I am NOT kidding, I've been playing for nearly 4 decades, and performed professionally for nearly 2 decades........and I can literally count on ONE HAND how many younger guitar players know & use the above 2 methods, and still have a couple fingers left over. AND NOBODY IS TEACHING YOU GUYS THE ABOVE 2 METHODS. THAT IS A REAL SHAME............WHAT YOU "DON'T KNOW".........WILL HURT YOU. The sharp angles of the swept-back headstock of the Gibson Les Paul plays a role in HOW that guitar plays AND SOUNDS. TRUST ME..........ASK ANY "GUITAR GREAT" WHO TRULY KNOWS LES PAULS............THEY WILL AGREE WITH EVERY WORD IN THIS COMMENT...........Now if ONLY someone could RESCUE the Gibson factory, and start making GOOD guitars like they did in the old days........instead of this "hit/miss JUNK" they are producing today. .......PS, I always used the above 2 methods on my older Gibson Les Paul Standard, and my guitar stayed in tune SO WELL........I NEVER NEEDED TO USE "GRAPHITE" IN THE NUT SLOTS.........I PLAYED ENTIRE SETS USING AGGRESSIVE BENDS IN MY PLAYING, AND MY LP ALWAYS STAYED IN TUNE THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE SET. ( You should ALWAYS re-check or re-tune BEFORE starting each new set of songs. That is standard procedure for ANY instrument. )
Thanks for mentioning nut issue. I've had no idea about the reason of this problem on my Les Paul
Is a Gibson Les Paul TRULY worth the price tag? I've never owned one, and never really played one ( I don't like handling $2-4k guitars unless I'm serious about buying) but am curious if the price tag is justified or just there for the names sake?
Name on the headstock most of the time.
Daniel, The Gibson Les Paul is not the same today as it was. Norlin bought the company from Gibson many years ago and introduced CNC technology and cost cutting into their manufacturing techniques...they moved to Nashville and the quality suffered for several years. The Craftsmen who lived in Kalamazoo stayed there and started the Heritage Guitar Company..Look at that guitar (specifically the H 157) if you want value for money.
Older Gibsons are great instruments but they are not made that way any more.
Also, the greater range of Gibson offerings makes me suspect of what you really get for your money. Les Paul Gibsons have so many variations I think they are selling to a price point and not to a quality level...there is a difference.
FYI... I have an Epiphone Les Paul that is a great guitar except that I changed the pickups for Seymour Duncan's. now it's better. Also installed a bone nut...better sustain now.
The name on the headstock does not make the guitar...the wood and the craftsmanship and the electronics of the particular instrument make the difference.
Only my opinion.
Play one. They are very different animals from something like a fender in both feel and sound. I say they are worth the price. They keep the value over time. They only get better over time. They are a successful formula and copied by countless others such as PRS.
I've got a 97' special (standards are too damn heavy) that fits like an old shoe. There is no other guitar in the world that I would accept as a replacement.
Nope - but you get the name. It's all marketing.
wot are Gibson mini humbuckers
I never knew that you could wrap the strings thru, up & over the tailpiece. I always took it that the strings should go thru & up over the bridge. I did know that you could raise or lower that tailpiece, giving you a little more control over the tension. Thx, nice little piece of info. 97 Korean made Epi LP 100
Why are the nut slots straight on the D and G strings? Why not stagger the nut slot so it's angled towards the tuners? Wouldn't this fix the tuning issue?
Because the people at Gibson are fucking stupid. And yes, cutting the slots so they are angled usually solves the problem. A little pencil lead or lubricant can be used if that doesn't completely fix it.
if you search for "string butler" you'll find a kickstarter page... don't whether this is satisfying^^
Nope. Angling just moves the point at which the side tension of the string pulls against the side of the nut. When straight, the tension is pulling against the top edge of the nut. When slanted, it is pulling sideways where the string comes into the nut from the fingerboard. Those who advocate a slanted slot to "fix" this supposed problem are ignoring physics. If you wish to change the slot's configuration, you'd need to *curve* the slot so it more gently changes the direction of the string as it comes from the fingerboard side toward the tuners. That would be a total pain in the butt and only (perhaps) do a tiny bit better job than what most guitar techs and luthiers do (and why the factories don't do it is to simply save labor time...probably less than $5 per instrument).
The fix is a properly sized (width and depth) and *polished* slot made in a very hard nut material. My 70'/71' LP has never needed adjustment or lube. It "caught" on the D, G, and B strings for the first couple months of life until I polished the slots with untra-fine files followed by rubbing with smooth metal feeler gauges. It has been, what, almost 45 years later and still no catching during tuning? When I build people new nuts, I never slant them and they never catch or squeak, as long as the customer provides me with their preferred strings or lists the gauges they actually use. If they go up a gauge, the *might* catch, but we can easily fix it at the slot. Angling toward the tuners is simply not needed. If you don't have a guitar tech or local luthier handy, have a cheap (i.e. plastic or soft brass or aluminum) nut, then use a lube as a stop-gap measure, but it still isn't as good as a properly made and finished nut.
Kirk Janowiak You are somewhat correct, but changing the anchor point reduces the angle and friction. This leads to better stability. It is more important that the slot is cut well and has a slippery surface. And a straight string pull is always better.
Your 70/71 LP has never needed lube or a lubricated nut because it is a fixed bridge. You can get away with it.
BTW, some techs and luthiers cut them angled.
Very cool. I gave my 74 Les Paul custom to my nephew. Did not know 4 of 5 of this info. I still get to play the oldie and have others to. Thanks for all your vids an info
I wonder why Gibson didn't decide to weight relieve the maple cap instead of the mahogany body, you could remove less wood for the same amount of weight loss but have more overall wood mass, resulting in possibly more sustain.
Just a brain fart.
Because the maple cap is much thinner than the mahogany
I know that, you could still rout out the underside of it that connects to the mahogany slab.
Maybe rout out a chambering in both the maple and the mahogany so you wouldn't have to go anywhere near as deep into the mahogany.
But then I also suppose it would be a huge waste of flame maple if you start routing out weight relief into it haha,
I see where you're going but it feels counterintuitive to put a cap on if you're just going to rout out a good chunk of it.
Maple is very strong much more brittle and prone to cracking and doesn't flex much. Look up maple bats in mlb.I'm guessing for stability reasons they don't hollow it out, imagine if you bumped your 2500 LP and the top cracked! Yikes! Also the top is carved so the depths of the weight relief would have to be perfectly laid out for spacing and depth, it would add labor and thus $$$ for a minor weight savings. Plus the purists would freak.
Maple is very strong much more brittle and prone to cracking and doesn't flex much. Look up maple bats in mlb.I'm guessing for stability reasons they don't hollow it out, imagine if you bumped your 2500 LP and the top cracked! Yikes! Also the top is carved so the depths of the weight relief would have to be perfectly laid out for spacing and depth, it would add labor and thus $$$ for a minor weight savings. Plus the purists would freak.
I just adjusted my stop tailpiece in my ES-335 - based on your suggestion. And it does really feels a lot better with less tension on the strings. It evens sounds better and rescues the semihollow sound a lot. Thanks.
Number 3 is a myth. And I have one hundred ways of proving it to you. Some of them with math formulas and basic mechanics.
Great video, first time I heard a technical explanation for why playing certain solos seems easier on a Gibson than a Fender Strat
6. Strats are better
Although I have an Epiphone LP, a couple of these facts that you provided made a lot of sense to me and allows me to understand some of the issues (tuning) that I am having. Thanks for the great info and keep up the great work for the community. As a born-again hobbyist, I learn something every time I watch your videos.
Just ordered my first Gibson Les Paul and have been watching a ton of videos on the guitar. Thanks for the content!
His point about the Nut angle is spot on. I had to lubricate the Nut on my 2 Les Paul's, both 1976's with original nuts and they do stay in tune MUCH better now. Used a pencil lead trick on one and a Lube kit from D'Addario ($9 on Amazon) on the other. Both tricks worked, the pencil trick is cheaper but messier.
Low output unpotted pickups are the sound many search for in a les Paul. More output isn't better I eventually learned. There's much more dynamics in a low output pickup and today's amps have all the drive most players need. Great info
I was ready to replace my neck pickup (Burstbucker Pro) with a 57 Classic on my Lester until now. It turns out I had a low output neck pickup on my axe the whole time. I'm gonna take the money I was gonna spend and get a DiMarzio SD for the bridge now. Thanks a bunch. You rock!
I honestly didn't know that much about the gibson neck and bridge. Now, I can make adjustments without over thinking it- thanks!!
I love both Gibson Les Paul's and Fender Strats. I play through Marshall and Fender amps. Almost like comparing a Clarinet to a Saxophone. Similar but also very different and both sound good when played together in a mix.
I just had a bone nut installed on my Black Beauty and noticed the angled cuts on the G and B. My guitar guy has some knowledge and this video was great reassurance. I've been lubricating the nut (that sounds worse than I intended) with a graphite and 3in1 oil solution for years on all my guitars and it makes a huge difference. Great video, thanks Phil!
Love the videos. Recently started playing again after 15 years. I've been learning quite a bit and enjoy these little tidbits.
you added some clarity to my les paul "coming out of tune" so easily. i often thought i may have let the string slip when re-stringing or didn't lock it properly or something, but i see now. i'll go back and watch that portion about the nut, etc, again. thanks...
Very pretty les Paul btw. The whole thing about the scale length and fretboard radius is the reason I don’t own a Strat anymore and instead have two Les Pauls. I like using 10s on my guitars and I played a Strat with 10s for years until it just became too much work for me, not to mention I got a GREAT deal on a sweet les Paul special and basically traded my 98 Strat for it a couple years ago. Les Pauls just play soooo good.
At first I though Phil was just a goofy show off nerd of sorts, and....I was right, but, I have learned so much from this guy and have had a lot of fun with these videos, so yes, we're all guitar geeks who love this stuff. And thanks Phillip for the videos, it does take time and effort to do these. Keep them coming, it's of great service to us all.
Thank you , I never thought about wrapping the strings over the top.
Seen a ton of LP videos. This was one of the best. Great info and not excessively long. No BS here! Great job.
I was not aware of any of these 5 things about Les Pauls. I own a made in 2002, Historic 1957 Re-issued Black Beauty with three pick ups. Thanks for the info.
I'm a beginner, so I didn't know any of this information. Thanks for sharing. this is why I like your videos, always teaching and sharing. It helps a lot for us newbies!
Wow, very informational! Great vid. Surprised how many I didn't know.
To be fair, SGs are much thinner too so that will contribute to their lightness. I'm sure someone has already said that though.
I have to be honest, I didn't know any of that. And I've read up on Les Pauls a LOT! Thanks for doing the video :)
great vid. very informative. I found out about why the wrap over is done, and why the "ting" when tuning the 3rd string. Thank you.
This was good information. Goes to show that even we who've played many years still have much to learn about the mysterious, legendary beast called the Les Paul!
I have a PRS 245 and this video just made me love it more.
I miss mine. I was so stupid for selling it.
very good video, i have a gibson honey burst les paul 94 and this video is very useful. i didn't know about the nut. most probably i will change the nut because on my les paul the holes are straight(but keep the original one with me) . i removed the original burstbuckers on it and replaced them with some peter florence pick ups and they are far better, very classic rock , very creamy sounding. thank you again.
Kool stuff Dude. I have had a Les Paul since 1973 (Bought it used for 300 bucks) and didn't know that bit about the over/ under strings on the bridge! Thanks! Some Yo Yo painted it black with a rattle can. She was a cherry burst originally.
I was gonna go back to 10’s from 11’s on my Paul, but I adjusted the tailpiece like you said a few times with a quarter and it’s back to playing like it should. I had no idea that’s what the tailpiece was for. The tech that worked on it last had too much tension on it. I love your channel, man! You’ll always have a subscriber here!
Try 9s or 8s. In the 70s everyone used 8s, Page, Hendrix etc... it doesn't make your tone worse at all and you can actually play comfortably. There is absolutely no reason to go heavy. In the 80s 9s came about but 10s or heavier are a new thing and not used on any of the classic recordings using a Les Paul (or any other guitar). In fact they often sound better. Brighter and more chimey but that's debatable.
didn't realize raising the tailpiece would create less tension...thanks!
Agree 100%-I just top wrapped my LP-with .09's-Love the overall feel. Tailpiece was down all the way finger tight.
As far as the break angle of D & G string-I tried Tune Voodo (you tube search and you can find it) I was skeptical-but I swear the damn thing works. Thanks for the video Phil.
That was quite interesting. I didn't know about the tail piece importance. I'll lower mine now as I prefer a tauter feel but am not too keen on heavier strings (Prefer 10-42) I think the easier feel between a Gib & Strat is personal pref really. I have both & both are equally easy. I play a Les Paul Standard '95. Fender Strat Plus deluxe '92. Tele '94. Ernie Ball Musicman '92. I use a Marshall JVM 410C May change as they weigh a ton but have been a Marshall user for many decades. The reason 90's guitars sit well with me is because they are old enough to be properly made, feel good to the touch, usually have a few dings so don't worry about every little knock or scuff & because they are not SO old that they cost an arm & a leg & maybe a kidney. In that respect I get a good solid working guitar that responds & sounds the way a pro standard guitar should. Needless to say I have played different guitars PRS ESP Jackson Ibanez but afore mentioned guitars are keepers as they cover all the bases.
Nice tip about adjusting the string tension with the tailpiece height!
Thanks for enlightening me to the reason a les paul has a problem staying in tune. I just watched a video on the KM les paul and it was said it doesn't jump out of tune, so I will have to go back and see if the string routing is a bit different
I also am happy to learn that the tailpiece height makes such a difference. Thanks for sharing this
Thanks for mentioning the 'ting' that can happen in the nut. It had been happening to me lately, and I was thinking maybe one of my tuning pegs was going bad - like a gear tooth was compromised or something. Hopefully not!
Thanks that was very informative! I feel like less of a novice about my own gear... I really like the maple is heavier than mahogany.. Makes sense why a mahogany neck gets dents so easily and not maple..
I love the fact that the way you present is so clear interesting and accurate. Im sure you have many Australian fans like me. Well done!
...have a LP Deluxe that I bought brand new in 72'...and learned stuff I didn't know...thx so much....
Right on. I've got a '72 Deluxe that I bought for $300 in '79. Serial # on the neck is from 1967 but I they didn't make deluxe's back then so I'm guessing it's a '72. Love that guitar.
you can tell if it,s a 72 by the volute at the top of the neck..I have a 1970 delux and it has a a 1960 serial No... Gibson are renoun for re-useing them... also some deluxes have Deluxe under the Les Paul decal instead of model
Yes, I suggest switching the Burstbuckers with the DiMarzio Tone King.
I really recommend putting on a compensated nut, it really corrects the out of tune sound on open cords and also helps with tuning issues. by far the best up grade u can do and cheap.
what nut would you recommend?
Good video mate! I own and play my Gibson now for about 10 years and still learned something haha thanks!
Just learnt something about scale lengths between Gibson/Fender. All these years and I didn’t know... cheers! (And I own both). Personally I like playing them both equally. Different horses for different courses.
Interesting video. Funnily enough, I own both a Strat and a Les Paul and find the Strat easier to play, despite the longer scale length. Horses for courses I guess. Obviously, they have two very distinct sounds and whenever I learn a new tune I like to try it out on both guitars to see which sound I prefer.
Great videos across the board, thanks! Loved the Fender American vs Mexico comparison; I've always maintained that my Japanese strat plays better than most American models I have tried, but I'm sure it comes down to each individual instrument.
thanks, going to check out the string angle to the bridge, gettin' older now, That seems to make sense.
I started watching your channel a month back and I have actually learned quite a bit. Thank you