I know you taught me awhile ago about eye contact with my dogs. I kinda didn't listen. I just switched to not paying for good behavior until we make eye contact. Huge difference. Now they understand the food doesn't come from the pouch, it comes from me.
One of my favorite dog channels, very positive, very kind techniques and very logical explanations. I wish you had some Spanish videos as well for friends who don't get English that well.
My Phone: You've got a new notification. Me: Oh, what is it? My phone: Nate Schoemer: How to Create a Strong Positive Ass... Me: Well, I'm sure he meant something else.
You can do this at the same time you do engagement training. The only difference is that when the dog becomes classically conditioned to each sound, the markers you continue to reward, but for the name, you no longer have to reward.
I trained my dog with same methods but the time between was to be 1 to 3 seconds to give treat, not 3 to 5 seconds, which best supports her connectionn/understanding/compliance.
Hey Nate, I was looking at the FAQs on your website. One of the faqs was regarding phasing out treats and should a marker only be used when a treat is given. You said no, always treat after marking.. I thought the whole point of a marker word such as "yes" was that eventually the treat could be partially or fully replaced by the marker word?
Would it be useful to just teach the dog to pay attention to you when they hear their name, and not necessarily come? I'm imagining giving commands from a distance. If the dog is 20-30ft+ away and not in a stay, would it be useful for their name to simply mean "look at me"? Or would "Rover, sit" cause the sit command to supersede the "come" implied by calling their name?
Hey Nate, thank you for these videos. I trained my pitbull with lessons from you and Zak George- great help! Can you give me advice on this? We just adopted another puppy (mutt- Great Pyrenees, Rottweiler, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, and Cane Corso). Her litter was just an accident from a local family. They kept the puppies outside 100% of the time and they slept in the same place they potty. They are 7 weeks old (Officially 8 weeks old in 4 days) and they said they were not getting the puppies their 6 weeks shots. I also don’t know which strays get into their yard because they don’t really protect it. So, we decided to take her out of the environment a few days early. I have a vet appt for her in a few hours because her belly looks like an inflated balloon but she’s otherwise very skinny. I am praying she is healthy. My question is: how do I get her to stop pooping where she sleeps? We only had her for one night so far. I took her out every 3 hours and it would take another hour to get her to settle down again. Then both times I took her to go potty, she already pooped in her kennel. This is my 3rd dog and I never had a puppy come from an environment like Seabrook did.
So, I have two dogs now. Both I rescued. Your pup has worms so right now she’s exhausted. The pup i just rescued is 6 weeks and a pit lab. She was pooping all over the place the first night, but with puppy pads and treats, she learned. When your pup starts to pee or poo, take them to the pad. Everytime. She will learn to. Give her a treat when she sits on the pad! Also puppy diapers are a live saver for in the car or on the go! She shit everywhere on the way to the vet
That's another association. Kind of like how this video talks about the door is knocked, the dog barks. Because they know the door is knocked and people come in so they get worked up quick because they're excited about the new people. When I pick up the leash (some times when I'm even putting on my shoes) my service dog picks up on the fact that we are going out and he gets all excited. I can either tell him to "Wait" and he will calm down while I finish getting ready for our walk, trip to the park with the kids, etc. Or I can tell him "We are going to work" and 'work' was the trigger for "This isn't a game this time, it's serious," and he will go sit at the front door so I can finish getting ready and then dress him. When he was a puppy and would get excited for the door or leash, I would stop and wait for him to sit. Praise and then collar. If he left his sitting position and went excited after that I would stand still and get him to refocus and sit again. When calm, I'd add praise and add the leash. Repeat if he lost his excited little mind. He didn't get to decide when we left, how we left, or how we dressed. And I had to stay silent, calm, patient, and reassuring the positive behavior the entire time to show what I did want from him. I gave him the attitude I did want -- calm patience. Not yelling, grabbing, chasing, running. When we walked towards the door, he didn't get to pull me or tell me what we were doing. We would stop, he would come sit, and I'd praise and we would start moving again. When I open the doors, they were taught to not run through them by being taught a basic 'wait' command beforehand that I could apply. And then when we walked out the door, if he lost it in pure glee again, we would stop, calm down, and work on proper leash behaviors. But the way they see it? The same way you give them a treat when they sit, you're picking up a leash and they're going out to play.
I turn notifications off for comments on YT but if your dog gets scared when you pick up a leash (as opposed to when you apply pressure on the leash) use a longer leash and reward them then grab that longer leash from a little closer to the dog each time. If they fear the pressure you need a good balanced trainer as it's a delicate process to get the ball rolling. Either it takes some sleight of hand and timing OR you may need to get your dog very hungry and use food.
And since it's not a marker, once the dog responds to their name, you no longer have to reward. However, rewarding randomly (like all commands) helps keep the motivation and reliability. :)
I know you taught me awhile ago about eye contact with my dogs. I kinda didn't listen. I just switched to not paying for good behavior until we make eye contact. Huge difference. Now they understand the food doesn't come from the pouch, it comes from me.
Nice work!
@@NateSchoemer thanks
One of my favorite dog channels, very positive, very kind techniques and very logical explanations. I wish you had some Spanish videos as well for friends who don't get English that well.
My Phone: You've got a new notification.
Me: Oh, what is it?
My phone: Nate Schoemer: How to Create a Strong Positive Ass...
Me: Well, I'm sure he meant something else.
Google Analytics usually gets a similar treatment.
Thank you
Hey I just got a 10w German Shepherd puppy yesterday I've been watching you stuff for a while n this is rlly helpful!
Thank you!
Thank you, Tanja! :)
I just got adopted a rescue dog. Should I do this before engagement training. So name association before "yes" and "Free"?
You can do this at the same time you do engagement training. The only difference is that when the dog becomes classically conditioned to each sound, the markers you continue to reward, but for the name, you no longer have to reward.
I trained my dog with same methods but the time between was to be 1 to 3 seconds to give treat, not 3 to 5 seconds, which best supports her connectionn/understanding/compliance.
Fantastic video!
Excellent lesson🐕👍
Hey Nate,
I was looking at the FAQs on your website. One of the faqs was regarding phasing out treats and should a marker only be used when a treat is given. You said no, always treat after marking..
I thought the whole point of a marker word such as "yes" was that eventually the treat could be partially or fully replaced by the marker word?
th-cam.com/video/7CNjxTnsh8Y/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/3LYCO9ITmqk/w-d-xo.html cheers!
Would it be useful to just teach the dog to pay attention to you when they hear their name, and not necessarily come? I'm imagining giving commands from a distance. If the dog is 20-30ft+ away and not in a stay, would it be useful for their name to simply mean "look at me"? Or would "Rover, sit" cause the sit command to supersede the "come" implied by calling their name?
I'd like to give my 2 cents bur that's about all it's worth. Nate has your question.
Yes, you can do that as well. It's really up to you. :)
Hey Nate, thank you for these videos. I trained my pitbull with lessons from you and Zak George- great help!
Can you give me advice on this? We just adopted another puppy (mutt- Great Pyrenees, Rottweiler, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, and Cane Corso). Her litter was just an accident from a local family. They kept the puppies outside 100% of the time and they slept in the same place they potty. They are 7 weeks old (Officially 8 weeks old in 4 days) and they said they were not getting the puppies their 6 weeks shots. I also don’t know which strays get into their yard because they don’t really protect it. So, we decided to take her out of the environment a few days early. I have a vet appt for her in a few hours because her belly looks like an inflated balloon but she’s otherwise very skinny. I am praying she is healthy.
My question is: how do I get her to stop pooping where she sleeps? We only had her for one night so far. I took her out every 3 hours and it would take another hour to get her to settle down again. Then both times I took her to go potty, she already pooped in her kennel. This is my 3rd dog and I never had a puppy come from an environment like Seabrook did.
So, I have two dogs now. Both I rescued. Your pup has worms so right now she’s exhausted. The pup i just rescued is 6 weeks and a pit lab. She was pooping all over the place the first night, but with puppy pads and treats, she learned. When your pup starts to pee or poo, take them to the pad. Everytime. She will learn to. Give her a treat when she sits on the pad! Also puppy diapers are a live saver for in the car or on the go! She shit everywhere on the way to the vet
How do get your puppy/dog not getting overwhelmed when the leash gets grabbed ?? Any tips
That's another association. Kind of like how this video talks about the door is knocked, the dog barks. Because they know the door is knocked and people come in so they get worked up quick because they're excited about the new people. When I pick up the leash (some times when I'm even putting on my shoes) my service dog picks up on the fact that we are going out and he gets all excited. I can either tell him to "Wait" and he will calm down while I finish getting ready for our walk, trip to the park with the kids, etc. Or I can tell him "We are going to work" and 'work' was the trigger for "This isn't a game this time, it's serious," and he will go sit at the front door so I can finish getting ready and then dress him. When he was a puppy and would get excited for the door or leash, I would stop and wait for him to sit. Praise and then collar. If he left his sitting position and went excited after that I would stand still and get him to refocus and sit again. When calm, I'd add praise and add the leash. Repeat if he lost his excited little mind. He didn't get to decide when we left, how we left, or how we dressed. And I had to stay silent, calm, patient, and reassuring the positive behavior the entire time to show what I did want from him. I gave him the attitude I did want -- calm patience. Not yelling, grabbing, chasing, running. When we walked towards the door, he didn't get to pull me or tell me what we were doing. We would stop, he would come sit, and I'd praise and we would start moving again. When I open the doors, they were taught to not run through them by being taught a basic 'wait' command beforehand that I could apply. And then when we walked out the door, if he lost it in pure glee again, we would stop, calm down, and work on proper leash behaviors. But the way they see it? The same way you give them a treat when they sit, you're picking up a leash and they're going out to play.
I turn notifications off for comments on YT but if your dog gets scared when you pick up a leash (as opposed to when you apply pressure on the leash) use a longer leash and reward them then grab that longer leash from a little closer to the dog each time. If they fear the pressure you need a good balanced trainer as it's a delicate process to get the ball rolling. Either it takes some sleight of hand and timing OR you may need to get your dog very hungry and use food.
@@aryah1513 I'm wondering what dog gets scared when you pick up the leash?
@@aryah1513 oh not he doesn't get scared!! I meant happy! My bad for wording that wrong
👍
I'm just learning but once the dog associates his/her name to the reward you shouldn't pay without eye contact.
And since it's not a marker, once the dog responds to their name, you no longer have to reward. However, rewarding randomly (like all commands) helps keep the motivation and reliability. :)
@@NateSchoemer thanks
@@NateSchoemer thanks