The solution for my problem was a bad connection on a relay located in the fuse block under the steering wheel near peddles. The relay was on the right side of the fuse block second from the bottom. I removed the relay cleaned the connection and solved my issue.
I have the same problem friend, it does exactly the same (nothing) what is the relay? because I took it out in seconds from the bottom to the top, I cleaned it and my problem is still there, help me man please.
You could have a starter issue. The relay is square typically black located in fuse block by break peddle. Check to see if you have the peeping with key in and drivers door open. If you dont hear beeping it would be the rely if you hear beeping telling you you left the key in ignition probably not the rely
I figured my issue out. It was a lose fuse for the starter. Too much wiggle (play) in the fuse. Put a thin piece of metal on the fork of the fuse to allow it to wedge properly in the block. Works great since. I want to say fuse #23 but not 100% sure on that.
Thanks for posting; I thought I was the only one with this problem. My 2009 Sprinter has been playing up for the past couple of years, usually when the engine is hot. What works for me is to use the spare key fob. It seems that some sensor somewhere is getting confused.
Was having the same problem with mine. Sometimes started, other times it wouldn't. Also once, the key wouldn't even turn. I cleaned the cut outs on both keys really well. Two short bursts of Liquid Wrench dry lubricant in the ignition switch, and new batteries in both fobs. Not sure exactly what did it but, it's been working flawlessly since.
under the passenger side theres your fuse box with 3 relays in, check they are in properly as they can come loose under vibration and get really hot! push them back in, if loose, if still doesn't work replace for new and blob a bit of silicone on them to keep in place, that should do the trick!
Change the batteries in the key. Then unlock and lock the doors with it. If it doesn’t start after that tighten the cables under the driver seat that connect to the fuse link and any other connections you see.
Check fuse 16. If it blow , and blowing again after replacing, you have a short circuit in system. My was in DEF injector wires problem. This fuse responsible for starter relay, and fuel pump relay.
Mine does this after a long drive and the van is hot. I've had it into the dealership and they can't find anything wrong with it. Nothing shows up with Diagnostics. It's happening more frequently. Now I'm told by all the dealerships closest to me that they can't get it in for well over a month.
Mine is a 2009 3500 3'0L TB. I get only a click. Sounds like a grounf issue or, if this was a 289 Ford, my starter solenoid. Ground check first, hammer on the atrter next, then whatever goes from there
My sprinter 08 did that intermittently until it total stopped it was the chip in the key i had to replace the key for £200 as the dealership had to order the key from Germany then it was ok works fine now, Don,t think these keys always last forever as the chip degrades to it seems
theres a ecm relay below fuses under steering column. i believe 3 relays there and was middle one. 3rd one was wipers. sprinter i had when wiggling the relay with key on can hear it clicking. was lose connection.
My 2010 Freight liner Sprinter 3500 was doing this. I tried jumping it and no dice. It turned out to be a blown fuse, located in the driver side fuse box. It was the 20A fuse third from the bottom, 2nd from the right.
CAN JUMP IT WITH GROUNG CABLE ON MOTOR NOT THE BATTERY / one click no start is a bad motor ground cable. Run a ground from motor to battery ground, fast te4st one side of jumper cable motor to battery ground. took me 8 month to find this. OOOOO THE BATTERY POST WILL BE HOTTER THEN HELL. .
Same for me!!! It was fuse 23 which is the starter motor fuse according to the users manual. The user manual has fuse 23 as as 25A fuse NOT a 20A. I replaced it with a 20A and it worked. Bought a box of assorted fuses and replace it with a 25A to be consistent with the users manual. Thanks very much for this very useful comment!!!
My 2008 Sprinter diesel motorhome is doing the same exact thing all of a sudden! So scary. I was stuck in a parking lot overnight because I couldn’t get it started. There’s a toggle switch on the dash, to the left of the steering wheel. No label, nothing in the manual about what it is. I was told to flip that and then it started. It’s a Neutral Safety Switch. Not sure what it does. Since then, it’s happened many times and that toggle switch doesn’t always allow it to start. I do what Kevin’s doing... turn key multiple times. This is serious! What is it? Could it be a loose wire in that switch?
Mary Woods the cause of my condition was a intermittent bad connection on a relay located in panel below the steering wheel. On mine it was relay second from bottom on right side. Just removed and cleaned connection. My clue was sometimes when the key was in ignition and the drivers door was opened the alarm to remind you that the keys were in the ignition did not come on. Hope that helps
I remove my ECM and put it in a refrigerator if it acts up. 10 minutes in the cold then reinstalled the computer. It fires right up. In fact on hot days I remove the ecm when I go into stores. The air conditioning in the stores cool the ecm enough. Put ecm back in, fires right up. It's a pain in the ass but it works.
that would be a case of cracked solder welds expanding and contracting in temp changes, you should open it up and take a good soldering iron and remelt all the solder blobs on your circuit board, you might be able to see the one or ones that are cracked and loosing connection...
what is the solution? Mine is doing the same thing. I don't have power locks. Not sure if I have an alarm. Mine is older 2005 Sprinter 2500. On mine, when working properly glow plug light comes on a few seconds then goes off then engine starts. When not working, glow plug light stays on and it behaves this way... doing nothing. And if try a bunch of times it starts same as this video. Thanks. :)
Hi. Yes mine is fixed. :) I was able to troubleshoot with help of a certified Dodge mechanic... I paid $28 on Just Answer.com you can see our correspondance here my.justanswer.com/question/index/d4246e8f62e24c85835c263c0d7e1e07?continueTheConversation=False&comingFromAdservEmail=False&ratedThroughEmail=False&rating=0&paymentType=Unknown ---- but the solution was that the ECM relay at bottom of steering column was loose - also solenoid under the drivers seat was loose. The fix was simply to remove and reinstall the relays tightly. One main symptom for Dodge mechanic was the condensor/radiator fan running while the glow plug light stayed on. This led him to these relays. He had me "check power at fuses 16 and 17 at the fuse box under the steering column and there was no power.. When the fan is on when you turn on the ignition, it usually means that the ECM is not receiving ignition switched power." He had me switch the two relays - ECM and turn signal relays at bottom of steering colum. Once I switched the turn signal and ECM relay it worked much better. Still had problem but less often. Heard the relays under the driver seat clicking when I wiggled the relay on steering column. So reseated all relays under the drive seat as well. Since then no problems. No parts. :) Cost me $28 just for Just Answer Dodge certified mechanic to trouubleshoot. Good luck!
Exact same issue as detailed above. See below for diagnosis from Mercedes mechanic: Confirmed customer concern of no crank symptom, found after multiple key ignition cycles the vehicle started successfully and no warning lights illuminated. Using the scanner retrieved the complete vehicle fault data, found multiple modules have stored faults related to the CAN-Bus/Network indicaitng communication loss occurring intermittently, suspect faults are related to the no crank symptom as data is not transmitted to authorize starting due to the communication break in the can-network. Cleared all fault data, found faults return when symptom returns. Found the radio is not operational and fuse has been removed, due to possibility of can-network malfunction caused by radio removed and disconnected the radio completely= symptoms remain. Using volt meter tested the can-network wire, found intermittently a ground signal is induced into the can network (spec=6-9v) correlating with faults/symptoms. Monitored the fault counters for the communication related faults, found as ground signal is induced the fault counter in the ADBLUE/SCR Module increases, found when moudule is disconnected the vehicle started 20/20 times indicating the ADBLUE module has failed and is inducing a ground signal into the CAN-Network affecting the start authorization procedure which is required to enable the starter motor. Recommend replacing the ADBlue Module+ Coding + Programming and initializing the SCR/DEF/Adblue system.
one click no start is a bad motor ground cable. Run a ground from motor to battery ground, fast te4st one side of jumper cable motor to battery ground. took me 8 month to find this. OOOOO THE BATTERY POST WILL BE HOTTER THEN HELL. .
Thanks Kevin, mine does the same thing as Jasons. So I know when it will happen but it is so frustrating. I am trying to fix it myself to avoid the wasted $$ with the dealer. Did you ever take it to the dealer?
@@DaveDutro one guy here said he takes out his ecm and puts it in the freezer then it works, that tells me that the solder welds on the circuit board in the ecm are cracked and expanding with temp changes, if you can solder and not afraid to do this, open your ecm and inspect the solders very closely, if they have any line on the solder , melt the solder and let it reharden, i had a honda a while back that had a simular issue and it was very frustrating , once i re soldered the board, it was perfect..
@@portlandlocalchurch8168 The Circuit Board is encased in a Thick Hard Resin. You can bake it for an hour at 200 degrees and dig all he resin out from around the chip or send it out to have it done for 200 bucks
I have a 2011, same issue. Why can't we find the solution? On mine, when working properly glow plug light comes on a few seconds then goes off then engine starts. When not working, glow plug light stays on and it behaves this way... doing nothing. Same as Jason Maher
Dave Dutro Mine was a bad contact on one of the relays. Easy to test without spending. Far left side of dash... eight relays, I swapped all the mirrored relays into different sockets. There are a few that are the same. My symptoms where: no plug light, no crank... cycled key until plug light came on and would start with no further problems. Problem was worse when warm.
one click no start is a bad motor ground cable. Run a ground from motor to battery ground, fast te4st one side of jumper cable motor to battery ground. took me 8 month to find this. OOOOO THE BATTERY POST WILL BE HOTTER THEN HELL. .
one click no start is a bad motor ground cable. Run a ground from motor to battery ground, fast te4st one side of jumper cable motor to battery ground. took me 8 month to find this. OOOOO THE BATTERY POST WILL BE HOTTER THEN HELL. .
Robert, did you find out what the problem was with your 2017 Sprinter? Im having the same problem now. Also my tail lights and turn singles are not working.
ONE TRICK THAT GUARANTEES YOU'LL NEVER HAVE ANY ISSUES WITH THE SPRINTER........... TRADE THE P.O.S THERE ENGINEERED TO FAIL SO MUCH FOR GERMAN ENGINEERING.
ALPHA MALES 4 TRUMP HYMN OF THE REPUBLIC yea and do what go buy a ford without the redder on it I get these jokes are funny in most cases but most ppl who drive these van don’t have a choice it’s what the need to do their job
Rubbish with the correct maintenance oil changes every 5/10 thousands miles the sprinter can do 400 thousand miles easy no other commercial vehicle even comes close the reliability , most often these vehicles are abused by transport companies and still hold up for a long time
Starter issue all sprinters will have this issue once starters get old and sticky you won’t hear the starter clicking it simply won’t get energized to Rotate engine Guess what it’s says on the starter don’t hammer 🔨 but if you hammer gently it will start
Hi guys, I had this problem with my Sprinter it was driving me mad and the problem went on for about six months to a year. I took it for its MOT and the guys there diagnosed it as a sticking relay called Terminal 87 Relay no 25422619. I looked on loads of youtube videos and forums but nobody could come up with the solution to this very common problem. Would you believe they only charged me £20 to fix it. Its now perfect. Hope this helps.
timairglider I found the same issue only it was a loose relay (bad contact) my clue was that with the key in the ignition and the drivers door was open there was no warning that the keys were in the ignition
one click no start is a bad motor ground cable. Run a ground from motor to battery ground, fast te4st one side of jumper cable motor to battery ground. took me 8 month to find this. OOOOO THE BATTERY POST WILL BE HOTTER THEN HELL. .
Tony Martin It was a poor connection on the relay located second from bottom in the terminal block located below the steering column. Your suggestion is a good one for people to investigate if not the relay
One clue was that when the drivers door was open with the key in the ignition there was no beeping indicating that the door was open and key in ignition.
If truck shuts down driving turn on the wiper of power window it took me 1 yrs to find this problem. Deal never could find. Deal just part changers. Just remember next time one side jumper cable ground for battery to motor only. I changed the fuse box with all new fuses and relay. The
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | ครอบครัวสะท้านทุ่ง "นางบี & อ้ายสติ๊ก"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A1rhYcxxNtA/mqdefault.jpg)
The solution for my problem was a bad connection on a relay located in the fuse block under the steering wheel near peddles. The relay was on the right side of the fuse block second from the bottom. I removed the relay cleaned the connection and solved my issue.
Any chance you could make a quick video showing this procedure?
@@zanejackson1 sold the vehicle long ago
I have the same problem friend, it does exactly the same (nothing) what is the relay? because I took it out in seconds from the bottom to the top, I cleaned it and my problem is still there, help me man please.
You could have a starter issue. The relay is square typically black located in fuse block by break peddle. Check to see if you have the peeping with key in and drivers door open. If you dont hear beeping it would be the rely if you hear beeping telling you you left the key in ignition probably not the rely
I figured my issue out. It was a lose fuse for the starter. Too much wiggle (play) in the fuse. Put a thin piece of metal on the fork of the fuse to allow it to wedge properly in the block. Works great since. I want to say fuse #23 but not 100% sure on that.
Thanks for posting; I thought I was the only one with this problem. My 2009 Sprinter has been playing up for the past couple of years, usually when the engine is hot. What works for me is to use the spare key fob. It seems that some sensor somewhere is getting confused.
Was having the same problem with mine. Sometimes started, other times it wouldn't. Also once, the key wouldn't even turn. I cleaned the cut outs on both keys really well. Two short bursts of Liquid Wrench dry lubricant in the ignition switch, and new batteries in both fobs. Not sure exactly what did it but, it's been working flawlessly since.
under the passenger side theres your fuse box with 3 relays in, check they are in properly as they can come loose under vibration and get really hot!
push them back in, if loose, if still doesn't work replace for new and blob a bit of silicone on them to keep in place, that should do the trick!
Change the batteries in the key. Then unlock and lock the doors with it. If it doesn’t start after that tighten the cables under the driver seat that connect to the fuse link and any other connections you see.
Check fuse 16. If it blow , and blowing again after replacing, you have a short circuit in system. My was in DEF injector wires problem.
This fuse responsible for starter relay, and fuel pump relay.
OMG it works. Thank you every much.
Mine does this after a long drive and the van is hot. I've had it into the dealership and they can't find anything wrong with it. Nothing shows up with Diagnostics. It's happening more frequently. Now I'm told by all the dealerships closest to me that they can't get it in for well over a month.
Mine is a 2009 3500 3'0L TB. I get only a click. Sounds like a grounf issue or, if this was a 289 Ford, my starter solenoid. Ground check first, hammer on the atrter next, then whatever goes from there
Isn't that a simple symptom of a failing starter solenoid not engaging the motor circuit at times due to bad contact inside the solenoid?
Fuse number 23 is a 20 amp, change to 25 amp
Did you ever find out the problem?
My sprinter 08 did that intermittently until it total stopped it was the chip in the key i had to replace the key for £200 as the dealership had to order the key from Germany then it was ok works fine now, Don,t think these keys always last forever as the chip degrades to it seems
theres a ecm relay below fuses under steering column. i believe 3 relays there and was middle one. 3rd one was wipers. sprinter i had when wiggling the relay with key on can hear it clicking. was lose connection.
My 2010 Freight liner Sprinter 3500 was doing this. I tried jumping it and no dice. It turned out to be a blown fuse, located in the driver side fuse box. It was the 20A fuse third from the bottom, 2nd from the right.
CAN JUMP IT WITH GROUNG CABLE ON MOTOR NOT THE BATTERY / one click no start is a bad motor ground cable. Run a ground from motor to battery ground, fast te4st one side of jumper cable motor to battery ground. took me 8 month to find this. OOOOO THE BATTERY POST WILL BE HOTTER THEN HELL. .
What is the 20A fuse for ?
Same for me!!! It was fuse 23 which is the starter motor fuse according to the users manual. The user manual has fuse 23 as as 25A fuse NOT a 20A. I replaced it with a 20A and it worked. Bought a box of assorted fuses and replace it with a 25A to be consistent with the users manual.
Thanks very much for this very useful comment!!!
My 2008 Sprinter diesel motorhome is doing the same exact thing all of a sudden! So scary. I was stuck in a parking lot overnight because I couldn’t get it started. There’s a toggle switch on the dash, to the left of the steering wheel. No label, nothing in the manual about what it is. I was told to flip that and then it started. It’s a Neutral Safety Switch. Not sure what it does. Since then, it’s happened many times and that toggle switch doesn’t always allow it to start. I do what Kevin’s doing... turn key multiple times.
This is serious! What is it? Could it be a loose wire in that switch?
Mary Woods the cause of my condition was a intermittent bad connection on a relay located in panel below the steering wheel. On mine it was relay second from bottom on right side. Just removed and cleaned connection. My clue was sometimes when the key was in ignition and the drivers door was opened the alarm to remind you that the keys were in the ignition did not come on. Hope that helps
My sprinter dont start where is this switch?
Exactly I have same problem. After I change starter problem is gone ! It’s nothing to do relay
I remove my ECM and put it in a refrigerator if it acts up. 10 minutes in the cold then reinstalled the computer. It fires right up. In fact on hot days I remove the ecm when I go into stores. The air conditioning in the stores cool the ecm enough. Put ecm back in, fires right up. It's a pain in the ass but it works.
that would be a case of cracked solder welds expanding and contracting in temp changes, you should open it up and take a good soldering iron and remelt all the solder blobs on your circuit board, you might be able to see the one or ones that are cracked and loosing connection...
mines a 2007 sprinter by the way!
Hi I have the same problem do you have any recommendations on how to start it or the problem is? Thank you
My solution is pinned in the comments
I replaced my starter motor and it fixed it....was the starter contacts....doing the repeated attempts also doesn't dothe Glow plugs any good
Ray Brandt seems you had a different issue than I. Was a loose relay in my case
what is the solution? Mine is doing the same thing. I don't have power locks. Not sure if I have an alarm. Mine is older 2005 Sprinter 2500. On mine, when working properly glow plug light comes on a few seconds then goes off then engine starts. When not working, glow plug light stays on and it behaves this way... doing nothing. And if try a bunch of times it starts same as this video. Thanks. :)
Jason, my 2011 is doing the same as yours. Have you had any luck finding out what it is???
davedutro@gmail.com
Hi. Yes mine is fixed. :) I was able to troubleshoot with help of a certified Dodge mechanic... I paid $28 on Just Answer.com you can see our correspondance here my.justanswer.com/question/index/d4246e8f62e24c85835c263c0d7e1e07?continueTheConversation=False&comingFromAdservEmail=False&ratedThroughEmail=False&rating=0&paymentType=Unknown ---- but the solution was that the ECM relay at bottom of steering column was loose - also solenoid under the drivers seat was loose. The fix was simply to remove and reinstall the relays tightly. One main symptom for Dodge mechanic was the condensor/radiator fan running while the glow plug light stayed on. This led him to these relays. He had me "check power at fuses 16 and 17 at the fuse box under the steering column and there was no power.. When the fan is on when you turn on the ignition, it usually means that the ECM is not receiving ignition switched power." He had me switch the two relays - ECM and turn signal relays at bottom of steering colum. Once I switched the turn signal and ECM relay it worked much better. Still had problem but less often. Heard the relays under the driver seat clicking when I wiggled the relay on steering column. So reseated all relays under the drive seat as well. Since then no problems. No parts. :) Cost me $28 just for Just Answer Dodge certified mechanic to trouubleshoot. Good luck!
DIAGRAM - automotive.a1hobbiesbyrob.com/wdocs/VA_TS_ECM_relay.jpg
hi m8 i had same problem spent lots of money in the end its the batteries in key fob
hi m8 i spent a load of money and all it is, a start relay in top of fuse bx cost £20
Exact same issue as detailed above. See below for diagnosis from Mercedes mechanic:
Confirmed customer concern of no crank symptom, found after multiple key ignition cycles the vehicle started successfully and no warning lights illuminated. Using the scanner retrieved the complete vehicle fault data, found multiple modules have stored faults related to the CAN-Bus/Network indicaitng communication loss occurring intermittently, suspect faults are related to the no crank symptom as data is not transmitted to authorize starting due to the communication break in the can-network. Cleared all fault data, found faults return when symptom returns. Found the radio is not operational and fuse has been removed, due to possibility of can-network malfunction caused by radio removed and disconnected the radio completely= symptoms remain. Using volt meter tested the can-network wire, found intermittently a ground signal is induced into the can network (spec=6-9v) correlating with faults/symptoms. Monitored the fault counters for the communication related faults, found as ground signal is induced the fault counter in the ADBLUE/SCR Module increases, found when moudule is disconnected the vehicle started 20/20 times indicating the ADBLUE module has failed and is inducing a ground signal into the CAN-Network affecting the start authorization procedure which is required to enable the starter motor.
Recommend replacing the ADBlue Module+ Coding + Programming and initializing the SCR/DEF/Adblue system.
one click no start is a bad motor ground cable. Run a ground from motor to battery ground, fast te4st one side of jumper cable motor to battery ground. took me 8 month to find this. OOOOO THE BATTERY POST WILL BE HOTTER THEN HELL. .
hi its the batteries in key fob garented
There's a screw under the hood by the ECU somewhere which over time becomes lose
Lukasz Luszcz in my case it was a poor connection on the bottom relays under the steering column
Mines a 2010 sprinter same thing happening to mine,help please,thanks
Is this a Mercadies Sprinter? & What was the problem?
Joshua Norris yes and loose relay in terminal block located under steering column. Check out the pined comment
@@Kevinwbaker100 thank you!
Has Kevin ever said if he got it fixed?
Dave Dutro no never found out the issue. Still happens from time to time. It's a Motor home so I don't use it often
Thanks Kevin, mine does the same thing as Jasons. So I know when it will happen but it is so frustrating. I am trying to fix it myself to avoid the wasted $$ with the dealer.
Did you ever take it to the dealer?
@@DaveDutro one guy here said he takes out his ecm and puts it in the freezer then it works, that tells me that the solder welds on the circuit board in the ecm are cracked and expanding with temp changes, if you can solder and not afraid to do this, open your ecm and inspect the solders very closely, if they have any line on the solder , melt the solder and let it reharden, i had a honda a while back that had a simular issue and it was very frustrating , once i re soldered the board, it was perfect..
@@portlandlocalchurch8168 The Circuit Board is encased in a Thick Hard Resin. You can bake it for an hour at 200 degrees and dig all he resin out from around the chip or send it out to have it done for 200 bucks
I have a 2011, same issue. Why can't we find the solution? On mine, when working properly glow plug light comes on a few seconds then goes off then engine starts. When not working, glow plug light stays on and it behaves this way... doing nothing. Same as Jason Maher
hi i had same problem in the end it was the batteries in key fob
Hey Davo!!
did you end up finding the problem mine is doing the same??
4000 miles does the same thing
Don't buy a Sprinter. Expect lots of NOX sensor and speed sensor problems. Had a 2106, took on three long road trips, broke down on all three.
I have a hard time getting started in the mornings..jump the starter
Vamos a probae suerte
hi every i had the same problem bought new key not sorted its the start relay at top of fuse box cost £20done all good
daniel evans is it by the steering wheel ... Which socket? What year is yours?
my sprinter does the same thing. what did you find out from the dealer?
Joe, my 2011 is doing a similar thing. Have you had any luck ???
davedutro@gmail.com
Dave Dutro
Mine was a bad contact on one of the relays.
Easy to test without spending.
Far left side of dash... eight relays, I swapped all the mirrored relays into different sockets.
There are a few that are the same.
My symptoms where: no plug light, no crank... cycled key until plug light came on and would start with no further problems.
Problem was worse when warm.
one click no start is a bad motor ground cable. Run a ground from motor to battery ground, fast te4st one side of jumper cable motor to battery ground. took me 8 month to find this. OOOOO THE BATTERY POST WILL BE HOTTER THEN HELL. .
hi its the batteries in keyfob
I have the same problem for a week and I have not yet been able to start the engine.
That's a no spin!
I have a new 2017 sprinter having the same problem,Does anyone know the what the issue is?
one click no start is a bad motor ground cable. Run a ground from motor to battery ground, fast te4st one side of jumper cable motor to battery ground. took me 8 month to find this. OOOOO THE BATTERY POST WILL BE HOTTER THEN HELL. .
Tony Martin when you say ground, do you mean under hood? Where do you ground on motor?
Robert, did you find out what the problem was with your 2017 Sprinter? Im having the same problem now. Also my tail lights and turn singles are not working.
Lucio Valdez when my acts up, locking and unlocking doors usually makes it work.. Do not know why.. Crazy.
Starter problem if u her cliks under car 100% and if u do an and off cople o times ten she wil start broken coals on rotor of the starter
Scorobete Nina might be in some cases but mine was a different issue
ONE TRICK THAT GUARANTEES YOU'LL NEVER HAVE ANY ISSUES WITH THE SPRINTER...........
TRADE THE P.O.S
THERE ENGINEERED TO FAIL SO MUCH FOR GERMAN ENGINEERING.
ALPHA MALES 4 TRUMP HYMN OF THE REPUBLIC yea and do what go buy a ford without the redder on it I get these jokes are funny in most cases but most ppl who drive these van don’t have a choice it’s what the need to do their job
Rubbish with the correct maintenance oil changes every 5/10 thousands miles the sprinter can do 400 thousand miles easy no other commercial vehicle even comes close the reliability , most often these vehicles are abused by transport companies and still hold up for a long time
Starter issue all sprinters will have this issue once starters get old and sticky you won’t hear the starter clicking it simply won’t get energized to Rotate engine
Guess what it’s says on the starter don’t hammer 🔨 but if you hammer gently it will start
zabi malik it was a bad relay connection on terminal block below steering wheel & bottom. Nothing to do with the starter
Kevin Baker it will come back bad motor grounding .
Mine was a bad starter, same symptoms
Hi guys, I had this problem with my Sprinter it was driving me mad and the problem went on for about six months to a year. I took it for its MOT and the guys there diagnosed it as a sticking relay called Terminal 87 Relay no 25422619. I looked on loads of youtube videos and forums but nobody could come up with the solution to this very common problem. Would you believe they only charged me £20 to fix it. Its now perfect. Hope this helps.
timairglider I found the same issue only it was a loose relay (bad contact) my clue was that with the key in the ignition and the drivers door was open there was no warning that the keys were in the ignition
Guys! Thank You 🙏🏻
one click no start is a bad motor ground cable. Run a ground from motor to battery ground, fast te4st one side of jumper cable motor to battery ground. took me 8 month to find this. OOOOO THE BATTERY POST WILL BE HOTTER THEN HELL. .
Tony Martin It was a poor connection on the relay located second from bottom in the terminal block located below the steering column. Your suggestion is a good one for people to investigate if not the relay
One clue was that when the drivers door was open with the key in the ignition there was no beeping indicating that the door was open and key in ignition.
If truck shuts down driving turn on the wiper of power window it took me 1 yrs to find this problem. Deal never could find. Deal just part changers. Just remember next time one side jumper cable ground for battery to motor only. I changed the fuse box with all new fuses and relay. The
@@Kevinwbaker100
Thanks, having the same problem I’ll see if I can find it as you mentioned. Did you replace the relay or can it be cleaned?
@@artieclark8648 just cleaned the terminals
Parking break