You did a great job explaining some of the details of what you were looking to accomplish. I have an L61 block Cobalt I intend to build up after I get my own home, and your showing what you do here makes the plan less intimidating to guys like me who want to do things themselves.
thank you so much, thats why i make these videos so the people who don't want to spend a bunch of money having someone else do it or enjoy doing things themselves can get a good idea of how to do it and accomplish it.
good video but turbulence creates a better fuel mixture so it's a double edge sword there. lol larger sure but maybe create a swirling effect with the porting would help a lot for some improved fuel optimization?
The shaft that the sandpaper is on is called a mandrel..You can order them long as 6" and as short as 2-3"..Also if you slide a piece of vacuum line over the shaft between the chuck on the die grinder and the sandpaper you will protect the port from the mandrel should you happen to lean the tool.. You can also buy long nose die grinders in both air & electric, if you choose to buy a a long nose electric die grinder you can buy a speed controller for a router at Harbor Freight for like $20 and plug you electric die grinder into it, then plug speed control in outlet.. Allows you to control the speed as most electric die grinders don't come with speed controls like an air die grinder does. I think Makita makes one that has a speed controll built in giving you several options for rpm.. Generally double cut burs are for cast iron and single cut are for aluminum, how ever if you dip a double cut bur in mig dip you can use it on aluminum and the mig dip keeps the bit from loading up..Also another trick is to use a speed control with an adj knob between the die grinder and your air fitting so you can turn the air down as carbide burs can bounce in the bowl or port and cause you grief..If you use a stone either rub mig dip or a light coating of grease on the stone as this will prevent the stone from loading up with material.. The flap wheel with emery cloth you are using is a good safe way to work but you will need carbide burs if you want to reshape the bowls.. Just be xtra careful around the seats as if you slip the seat can get tore up easily, best to always port before head goes to machine shop in case you nick a seat.. I like your ideas of measuring the water ports and your smart to gain flow by widening the port.. It's ok to polish the exh port and chambers to keep carbon from sticking but leave the intakes a little rough..This philosophy works better with carburetors as the fuel will fall out of suspension and become droplets, not the best atomization.. Fuel injection less likely for that to happen but I would still leave a 120 grit finish on intake ports.. As far as exh ports and chambers after initial porting, keep using finer paper each time, dremel has soft abrasive buffs in 120, 240, 320 grit that work awesome, if you have access to cratex rubberized grit cylendars or bullets that fit on a small mandrel these will save you time on the combustion chambers and can be used in between sand paper sanding rolls and rouge.. First black rouge on a polish wheel, then white for mega bling, you can do this to the combustion chanbers as well as the exhaust ports also if you don't want carbon to stick..It's a good idea to put old valves in the bowls when removing sharp spots on chambers that could cause hot spots and cause detonation..The valves will protect the seats incase you slip with a bur or sanding roll so u don't accidentally nick the seats.. You can chuck up old valves in a drill then take to bench grinder and use drill to spin valve while using against grinding stone to taper the face of the valve that you see when u look in the chamber so the edge of the valve is thinner so u can use a small bur with a dremel or micro pencil air die grinder with dremel size bur to unshroud valves in chamber if necessary... Love your thought process of examining the water and oil passages before porting.. Also on the face of the head that mates to the block there maybe a oil return passage that u can modify the sharp edge like you would on a short turn radius for a valve to help the oil return easier.. Good luck and thanks for posting.. There is a channel on you tube called jafromobile.. Check him out.. He is extremely smart and shows you how to do many things such as blue printing, porting oil passages, oil pumps, basically everything from the spark plug to the pan and has a good head porting video that might help in the future..
I ordered the dual pass endplate, pulley puller, angled o2 bung extension and some gaskets. I also have a barely used set of indy 500's going on next week. The stage 3 will come in a couple weeks.
ooh yea it will help, its all about the ease of how the air gets in and out of the cylinder and the easier it is the less the engine has to work to create the same amount of power
Hey man, I ended up finding a air leak but I got bigger problems now, I was going on third gear down the interstate pushing around 6 thousand rpm and all the sudden it looses power and starts stuttering when I look back tons of black smoke was coming out of my exhaust, when I stopped the car to check the engine I saw oil stains on the flex seal then the low coolant light came on so I put coolant in but it wasn’t filling up it kept draining but no visible leaks my car start but sounds terrible won’t idle and shuts off in less than a minute, I have no idea what’s wrong with it at this point.
@Salvo Brothers yes the mechanic took a look at it and found out that the pistons in cylinder one and two smacked the spark plugs and their is oil in cylinder one and coolant in two 🤦🏻♂️ time for a new engine lol , he also said that the engine wasn’t made to handle the supercharger that the last owner swapped the original engine and put a regular 2.0 and made it a supercharger.
@@cody1995evo I get what your saying but I don't know what your getting at. I'm not going to be putting new seats in I'm just going to recut the seats for new valves
You should also talk about if you can and if you’re doing it how much you can take off the deck of the head because it is an interference engine if you are shaving your head ?
You did a great job explaining some of the details of what you were looking to accomplish. I have an L61 block Cobalt I intend to build up after I get my own home, and your showing what you do here makes the plan less intimidating to guys like me who want to do things themselves.
thank you so much, thats why i make these videos so the people who don't want to spend a bunch of money having someone else do it or enjoy doing things themselves can get a good idea of how to do it and accomplish it.
Love the lsj vids
thnx so much
good video but turbulence creates a better fuel mixture so it's a double edge sword there. lol larger sure but maybe create a swirling effect with the porting would help a lot for some improved fuel optimization?
i hear that but not on the exhaust side though
@@salvobrothers5928 on the exhaust side on mine, down to a satin finish, no chance for carbon build up
@@randellgribben9772 yea thats what your looking for
The shaft that the sandpaper is on is called a mandrel..You can order them long as 6" and as short as 2-3"..Also if you slide a piece of vacuum line over the shaft between the chuck on the die grinder and the sandpaper you will protect the port from the mandrel should you happen to lean the tool.. You can also buy long nose die grinders in both air & electric, if you choose to buy a a long nose electric die grinder you can buy a speed controller for a router at Harbor Freight for like $20 and plug you electric die grinder into it, then plug speed control in outlet.. Allows you to control the speed as most electric die grinders don't come with speed controls like an air die grinder does. I think Makita makes one that has a speed controll built in giving you several options for rpm.. Generally double cut burs are for cast iron and single cut are for aluminum, how ever if you dip a double cut bur in mig dip you can use it on aluminum and the mig dip keeps the bit from loading up..Also another trick is to use a speed control with an adj knob between the die grinder and your air fitting so you can turn the air down as carbide burs can bounce in the bowl or port and cause you grief..If you use a stone either rub mig dip or a light coating of grease on the stone as this will prevent the stone from loading up with material.. The flap wheel with emery cloth you are using is a good safe way to work but you will need carbide burs if you want to reshape the bowls.. Just be xtra careful around the seats as if you slip the seat can get tore up easily, best to always port before head goes to machine shop in case you nick a seat.. I like your ideas of measuring the water ports and your smart to gain flow by widening the port.. It's ok to polish the exh port and chambers to keep carbon from sticking but leave the intakes a little rough..This philosophy works better with carburetors as the fuel will fall out of suspension and become droplets, not the best atomization.. Fuel injection less likely for that to happen but I would still leave a 120 grit finish on intake ports.. As far as exh ports and chambers after initial porting, keep using finer paper each time, dremel has soft abrasive buffs in 120, 240, 320 grit that work awesome, if you have access to cratex rubberized grit cylendars or bullets that fit on a small mandrel these will save you time on the combustion chambers and can be used in between sand paper sanding rolls and rouge.. First black rouge on a polish wheel, then white for mega bling, you can do this to the combustion chanbers as well as the exhaust ports also if you don't want carbon to stick..It's a good idea to put old valves in the bowls when removing sharp spots on chambers that could cause hot spots and cause detonation..The valves will protect the seats incase you slip with a bur or sanding roll so u don't accidentally nick the seats.. You can chuck up old valves in a drill then take to bench grinder and use drill to spin valve while using against grinding stone to taper the face of the valve that you see when u look in the chamber so the edge of the valve is thinner so u can use a small bur with a dremel or micro pencil air die grinder with dremel size bur to unshroud valves in chamber if necessary... Love your thought process of examining the water and oil passages before porting.. Also on the face of the head that mates to the block there maybe a oil return passage that u can modify the sharp edge like you would on a short turn radius for a valve to help the oil return easier.. Good luck and thanks for posting.. There is a channel on you tube called jafromobile.. Check him out.. He is extremely smart and shows you how to do many things such as blue printing, porting oil passages, oil pumps, basically everything from the spark plug to the pan and has a good head porting video that might help in the future..
thnx for sharing
That is not a Mandral
I ordered the dual pass endplate, pulley puller, angled o2 bung extension and some gaskets. I also have a barely used set of indy 500's going on next week. The stage 3 will come in a couple weeks.
cant wait to see you put this thing together
I wonder if that will help with power!
Yes it will.
ooh yea it will help, its all about the ease of how the air gets in and out of the cylinder and the easier it is the less the engine has to work to create the same amount of power
awwwww yes!
for sure :)
What was that little green 90-degree cleaner called? Also where did you get one?
all the tools are in the description
Is this the same basics with a 03 cav?
same theory with any cylinder head
Hey man, I ended up finding a air leak but I got bigger problems now, I was going on third gear down the interstate pushing around 6 thousand rpm and all the sudden it looses power and starts stuttering when I look back tons of black smoke was coming out of my exhaust, when I stopped the car to check the engine I saw oil stains on the flex seal then the low coolant light came on so I put coolant in but it wasn’t filling up it kept draining but no visible leaks my car start but sounds terrible won’t idle and shuts off in less than a minute, I have no idea what’s wrong with it at this point.
dam I'm sorry to hear that sounds like you blew her up, maybe head gasket, does it smoke a bunch now?
Thanks man, and yea it does black smoke thru exhaust and white smoke from the hood.
@@jaliergonzalez8873 hmm black smoke means fuel so maybe you got an injector or 2 stuck open although that doesnt explain the coolant issue
@@jaliergonzalez8873 have you found any coolant leak at all?
@Salvo Brothers yes the mechanic took a look at it and found out that the pistons in cylinder one and two smacked the spark plugs and their is oil in cylinder one and coolant in two 🤦🏻♂️ time for a new engine lol , he also said that the engine wasn’t made to handle the supercharger that the last owner swapped the original engine and put a regular 2.0 and made it a supercharger.
Yo I have cobalt ss lsj I might need help from you , do you got any social media so we can talk
yea check out @salvobrothers on insta
Seating valves
what?
Like putting valve seats in
@@cody1995evo I get what your saying but I don't know what your getting at. I'm not going to be putting new seats in I'm just going to recut the seats for new valves
That works to
You should also talk about if you can and if you’re doing it how much you can take off the deck of the head because it is an interference engine if you are shaving your head ?
You are using the WORST tool you could ever use for porting 🤣🤣
yeaaa thats what i have