Every time I'm working on something brother, I always find your videos and they help many times. You're the best brother, keep up the good honorable work.
Thanks to this and another site gave me the opportunity to check the front end on a left dragging Australian Ford Falcon Sedan . I will be replacing balljoints first then all front bushes . Then I might venture to the back after a skilled mechanic has checked it out. Thanks
I really like your videos. I am a technician at a small shop, and that's how we check for ball joint and tierod play. I like using my pry bar under the tire also. I can feel any give at all through the bar. Great videos!
Good video! I had a hub/bearing fail on my '03 Ranger 4x4 a few weeks ago, only 67k miles. I had put all 4 ball joints on it last year and the tie rods are fine....but after hearing the destructive noise it made and making it home I jacked it up and you could shift the tire/wheel around almost as much as the truck you're using in this video. Scary! Ordered new Timken/Ford units, installed, and fine now. That hub was in really bad shape. There was at least 4-5 of the roller bearings inside that were just gone, probably in chunks and pieces inside....
Thanks for the great video but the way you were going at the 9:00 and 3:00 position it look like from the inside that the wheel bearing was bad I didn't see too much of the outer tie rod move and it looked like the whole wheel was all out of whack I don't know that's the way I saw the video but thank again for the video
I think I saw what you saw, at the 2:50 mark, what I also would think may be a bad bearing. I see what I think may be excessive play in the CV joint boot and wheel bearing area in his video when he was showing the outer tie rod. I'm helping with a neighbor's 2005 f150 with similar movement after replacing bad inner and outer tie rods, the ball joints check out were replaced a few years ago, and check out as good, but there is still excessive slop when shaking neighbor's tire, and this video is the best example of what I see on his truck. I've been through a few you tubes tonight and would be very grateful for further explanation.
i have a mild random clunking at low speed. I will perform this check to see. I had a worst Clunk at all speeds and it was a worn out strut wobbling. I used your Strut video to replace those. I think i have something else starting to wear and this will help isolate it. Thanks.
thanks for the video👍 I had vibrations at 60mph and above. I was about to go to the crooked shops and/or stealerships to have them troubleshoot. I watched your video and I found that my outer tie rod nut had backed off but the cotter key kept it from backing off completely so the tie rod end was just jiggling inside the socket. The clunking noise was real audible when I jacked up that side and moved it with my hands at 3 and 9 o clock position but was not audible when on the highway. There wasnt much gouging or cutting into the tie rod end insert so I just found another castle nut a tad bit taller to line up the cotter key hole when at full torque. Imagine how much those crooked shops and stealerships would try to charge me if I wouldve brought it to them?!? "yes sir you need a new steering rack and it'll cost $1500 " 😫😫😫
Yes you can check the wheel bearing like that too the 12 and 6 but most importantly for the wheel bearing spin the wheel of really fast so you'll hear a humming sound
+FUGYOO Yeah I don't like the flare and music some of these guys are using now to spice up their videos. I am just going to concentrate on being professional and work on adding a bit of personality.
Yea I have to do these checks asap! I have 9-3 play, granted its minimal. But steering is very loose & ive got a rotational whine when turning or letting off the gas. I assumed it was wheel bearings, but now I think i need to check tie rod ends cause the boot is clearly leaking grease.
I have a question: If there is no movement at 12 and 6, and no movement vertically using a pry bar under the tire, BUT there is movement when using the prybar between the knucke and ball joint (real close to the ball joint) does that mean they are good or bad?
when moving from side to side at the 3 oclock and 9 0clock positions should there be any clunking sounds or should they be quiet ? Also is it better with both wheels off the ground for this tes.Thanks
Brought a Grand Marquis to a FORD dealer for an alignment and tires. Before I went I checked out the front like you did, replaced a bad idler arm. Everything seemed tight. I watched the tech do the inspection, he used a long crowbar, came back with bad outers and pitman arm. Quoted me 400. I declined the repair, on the way home bought the Moog parts with my discounts though. I did find some play with a crowbar on those parts. The tierods seemed a tad bit loose(I did move/rotate them by hand) but otherwise the front end was solid. Everything was corroded to the sleeve and I ended up replacing the parts anyway. I'm surprised though a dealer would suggest those repairs and test the front end using a crowbar. Seems the parts had some kind of spring in them and the ball socket is starting to wear.
+alb12345672 Another way I did not show for the larger trucks is to use a prybar under the wheel to check for socket wear. We use that method mainly on the superduty trucks.
+FordTechMakuloco He used the prybar against the LCA(not the wheel) and the sleeve to check the tie rods. They had up and down spring loaded play, but otherwise tight. The FSM also specifies tie rod ball joints also need to be tested for torque to move and rotate the stud. Some of my joints failed those tests for minimum effort. I guess that is for hard to track down steering issues. The pitman arm actually could fail for more than .1" vertical movement with clamp or prybar according the FSM. Tomorrow I go back for an alignment, should be quick with the new sleeves.
I have a 2017 fusion titanium fwd. just replaced my tires and brakes. When I hit a bump I was drifting. When I hit water car would hydro bad. How would you rule out an electronic rack and pinion? With it being electronic would it throw a code? Is there an option to auto correct? Thanks in advance love the channel!
Its amazing from my experience with 3 like model vehicles with grease zerks, how much longer front end components last from just one greasing per year. I've seen more than triple the life out of these parts when greased vs not greased. Its too bad so many cars don't have these any more, but zerks do sell fewer parts.
All greased parts used to have grease fittings. Money making scam across the board. Planned obsolescence and work for mechanics due to specialty tools and things backyard mechanics just cannot do without special tools and facilities. That is our society now. The big scam. My wife just today was not allowed to take her carry-on with her on the plane because she had a purse too. So she had to check in the carry-on for 25 dollars so she could keep her purse on her during the flight. Crap everywhere. Garbage really
So if you have a torsion bar type suspension you want to jack from the lower control arm? But if you have a strut type suspension you want to jack from a cross member? And only jack one wheel up at a time right?
Hey Makuloco I have a question I know you're a master ford tech so I'm hoping you might have come across this particular suspension symptom that I cannot seem to figure out, I have a 2013 F150 2wd replaced all front suspension components with some "overbuilt" mevotech parts except for monroe coilovers/sway bar bushings and motorcraft inner tie rods. When I go over a pothole my passenger side wheel makes a clunk sound like if every component on that side was loose. Nothing looks loose, I raised the wheel in the air then checked at the 3 and 9/12 and 6 oclock position but didn't find any play. What could my issue be?
Bro, quick question, lately iv been having my steering a bit hard, iv done the ball joint and tie rod end inspection and all seems fine... Any idea of what might be going on there?
got jeep put new tie rods on. My manual torque wrench sucks needs to be replaced for sure. Think i over tightened one rods with this wrench. Just keeps spining center shaft does not and holds 45 pounds. Is it possible to over tighten and pull rod apart? I greased threads and maybe half issue. Moog part I am going to go by feel for now on
I have a 2005 Ford Sport Trac do I have to load the lower control arm to check the tie rods and ball joints? Meaning do I have to put a floor jack or something under the lower control arm? Thank you everybody. I see you jacked the truck up under the LCA
I had my front struts replaced on my 2007 Expedition EL a few weeks ago. They replaced with KYB. When I got it back there seems to be a clunk now over bumps. Took it back and they tried to tell me the inner tie rods are bad now. I took it to some speed bumps and when I roll over the speed bumps it seems the clunk happens when the suspension rebounds, not on compression stroke. This is not tie rod ends, right? What should I look for? Thanks!
Hey boss everytime I jack my truck from the front and both tires on the front are off the ground I can move my tires side to side and it movies like if I was steering it away could that be the problem
I just had my brother bounce on my front bumper and I put the palm of my hand on the joints. I felt it pop in and out as well heard a clunk on the upper ball joint. Is that a good method? 👍
damn excellent video bro. a lady friend of many recently bought this 01 ford escort auto 2.0 zetec and there is a rotational noise on front passenger side whenever going over 20mph, i was thinking the wheel bearing but checking it at 6 and 12 shows no looseness at all. Could it still be the bearing that is just worn on one spot and seems solid while stationary but it manifest its noise when under load and moving or what could it be?
I had the same play left to right but then my buddy noticed the steering wheel moving. After one of us held the wheel there was no play at all. Could that still be tie rod issues or did the steering just not lock?
I have used that method for years but when I need to see inner or outer and I'm by myself I just remove the wheel. Then I can see everything. You just have to work the disc heavier as you don't have the leverage of the tire.
You did a good job showing the components, thanks.
Every time I'm working on something brother, I always find your videos and they help many times.
You're the best brother, keep up the good honorable work.
I was thinking I’d be replacing ball joints but it is apparent I need to do a tie rod end. Great video! Keep up the great work!!
Thanks to this and another site gave me the opportunity to check the front end on a left dragging Australian Ford Falcon Sedan . I will be replacing balljoints first then all front bushes . Then I might venture to the back after a skilled mechanic has checked it out. Thanks
Thank you very much for posting this. Extremely informative and well explained.
#1 Ford Guy on TH-cam!! Thank you bro for everything!! 💯👍
Clear, detailed and filmed well. Thanks!
Boy! For a moment it looked like a wheel bearing!!! But your videos are fantastic!! Thanks so much for the education!!
This video is absolutely well explained. Thank you. I'm an avid subscriber here.
Bro, that was a good demonstration. Now I know how to check it on my car. Gracias!
I really like your videos. I am a technician at a small shop, and that's how we check for ball joint and tierod play. I like using my pry bar under the tire also. I can feel any give at all through the bar. Great videos!
+Bryan Davis I do the same on the bigger trucks works remarkably well.
Awesome video, thanks to your help you confer with my suspicions were on my truck. Keep up the great work/videos!
Awesome video, helped me diagnosed my tie rod problem on my Kia Sorento UM.
Commenting for the TH-cam algorithm
What an excellently done video!
Good video! I had a hub/bearing fail on my '03 Ranger 4x4 a few weeks ago, only 67k miles. I had put all 4 ball joints on it last year and the tie rods are fine....but after hearing the destructive noise it made and making it home I jacked it up and you could shift the tire/wheel around almost as much as the truck you're using in this video. Scary! Ordered new Timken/Ford units, installed, and fine now. That hub was in really bad shape. There was at least 4-5 of the roller bearings inside that were just gone, probably in chunks and pieces inside....
Great video sir!! You definitely have a great channel!! Thank you!!💯👍
Excellent video, man. Thank you.
Very good video. The simpler the better.
Well done. You just helped me figure out what's causing the shimmying in my car's front wheels.
Could be wheel bearings as well
Excellent, well done video. Thanks!
Very nice demo. Thank you!
"big time!" love it!
thanks for the help . I can get started on my truck
Riding in here six years after you made this on a recommendation from my little brother, and boy howdy am I glad. Thank you.
Thanks for the great video but the way you were going at the 9:00 and 3:00 position it look like from the inside that the wheel bearing was bad I didn't see too much of the outer tie rod move and it looked like the whole wheel was all out of whack I don't know that's the way I saw the video but thank again for the video
I think I saw what you saw, at the 2:50 mark, what I also would think may be a bad bearing. I see what I think may be excessive play in the CV joint boot and wheel bearing area in his video when he was showing the outer tie rod. I'm helping with a neighbor's 2005 f150 with similar movement after replacing bad inner and outer tie rods, the ball joints check out were replaced a few years ago, and check out as good, but there is still excessive slop when shaking neighbor's tire, and this video is the best example of what I see on his truck. I've been through a few you tubes tonight and would be very grateful for further explanation.
Great informative video. Thank you
I have used A pry bar to check the lower ball joints by lifting the tires and the 6&12 to check upper ball joints,
Thank you so much. you made it so easy for checking. Excellent l.
Nice video. Very clear. Thank you.
Really good tutorial thank you
i have a mild random clunking at low speed. I will perform this check to see. I had a worst Clunk at all speeds and it was a worn out strut wobbling. I used your Strut video to replace those. I think i have something else starting to wear and this will help isolate it. Thanks.
thanks for the video... helpful even though I don't have a ford
good detailed checking n explanation
Very informative. Thank you
Nice instructional fella..
thanks for the video👍
I had vibrations at 60mph and above. I was about to go to the crooked shops and/or stealerships to have them troubleshoot. I watched your video and I found that my outer tie rod nut had backed off but the cotter key kept it from backing off completely so the tie rod end was just jiggling inside the socket.
The clunking noise was real audible when I jacked up that side and moved it with my hands at 3 and 9 o clock position but was not audible when on the highway.
There wasnt much gouging or cutting into the tie rod end insert so I just found another castle nut a tad bit taller to line up the cotter key hole when at full torque.
Imagine how much those crooked shops and stealerships would try to charge me if I wouldve brought it to them?!? "yes sir you need a new steering rack and it'll cost $1500 " 😫😫😫
Dude amazing explanation
It looked like the hub and bearing was slightly moving in this video as well. A little more then the tie rod end itself.
Fantastic truly helpful.
great video! thank you
Yes you can check the wheel bearing like that too the 12 and 6 but most importantly for the wheel bearing spin the wheel of really fast so you'll hear a humming sound
Dude. Nice instructional videos. Very articulate, to the point and NO STUPID MUSIC!! LOL Thanks.
+FUGYOO Yeah I don't like the flare and music some of these guys are using now to spice up their videos. I am just going to concentrate on being professional and work on adding a bit of personality.
Your skills on you vehicles are personality. Thanks again. Any vids on an F150, 1997 water pump replacement?
no video son that but if you have a modular engine they are ultra easy.
I don't know what a modular engine is. But it is a 4.2 liter. I snapped a bolt off trying to remove the water pump. Fgn factory locktite.
I like the intro you got in this video
I like your screen name
What a great video!
Great. Thanks bro.
Yea I have to do these checks asap! I have 9-3 play, granted its minimal. But steering is very loose & ive got a rotational whine when turning or letting off the gas. I assumed it was wheel bearings, but now I think i need to check tie rod ends cause the boot is clearly leaking grease.
Thanks for the info....
Great vid
Great video thanks
REAL GOOD VIDEO
Good shit Mate!
great stuff!
good to know. ..thank you. ..
Awesome job brother FORD power
Nice video.
Thank you brother!
Good video thanks mate
Awesome!
Finally found a quality video about this. Thank you lol
Great job thank you for the video very informative
I have a question: If there is no movement at 12 and 6, and no movement vertically using a pry bar under the tire, BUT there is movement when using the prybar between the knucke and ball joint (real close to the ball joint) does that mean they are good or bad?
Thank you sir.
Thank you very helpfu
when moving from side to side at the 3 oclock and 9 0clock positions should there be any clunking sounds or should they be quiet ? Also is it better with both wheels off the ground for this tes.Thanks
Brought a Grand Marquis to a FORD dealer for an alignment and tires. Before I went I checked out the front like you did, replaced a bad idler arm. Everything seemed tight. I watched the tech do the inspection, he used a long crowbar, came back with bad outers and pitman arm. Quoted me 400. I declined the repair, on the way home bought the Moog parts with my discounts though. I did find some play with a crowbar on those parts. The tierods seemed a tad bit loose(I did move/rotate them by hand) but otherwise the front end was solid. Everything was corroded to the sleeve and I ended up replacing the parts anyway. I'm surprised though a dealer would suggest those repairs and test the front end using a crowbar. Seems the parts had some kind of spring in them and the ball socket is starting to wear.
+alb12345672 Another way I did not show for the larger trucks is to use a prybar under the wheel to check for socket wear. We use that method mainly on the superduty trucks.
+FordTechMakuloco He used the prybar against the LCA(not the wheel) and the sleeve to check the tie rods. They had up and down spring loaded play, but otherwise tight. The FSM also specifies tie rod ball joints also need to be tested for torque to move and rotate the stud. Some of my joints failed those tests for minimum effort. I guess that is for hard to track down steering issues.
The pitman arm actually could fail for more than .1" vertical movement with clamp or prybar according the FSM.
Tomorrow I go back for an alignment, should be quick with the new sleeves.
thanks for the videos help alot by any chance does anyone know if the 3ton harbor frieght jack can jack up the f150 trucks front end ?
I have a 2017 fusion titanium fwd. just replaced my tires and brakes. When I hit a bump I was drifting. When I hit water car would hydro bad. How would you rule out an electronic rack and pinion? With it being electronic would it throw a code? Is there an option to auto correct? Thanks in advance love the channel!
Its amazing from my experience with 3 like model vehicles with grease zerks, how much longer front end components last from just one greasing per year. I've seen more than triple the life out of these parts when greased vs not greased. Its too bad so many cars don't have these any more, but zerks do sell fewer parts.
All greased parts used to have grease fittings. Money making scam across the board. Planned obsolescence and work for mechanics due to specialty tools and things backyard mechanics just cannot do without special tools and facilities. That is our society now. The big scam. My wife just today was not allowed to take her carry-on with her on the plane because she had a purse too. So she had to check in the carry-on for 25 dollars so she could keep her purse on her during the flight. Crap everywhere. Garbage really
@dafaqis-is I've seen people add geese fittings to "non maintenance parts".
So if you have a torsion bar type suspension you want to jack from the lower control arm? But if you have a strut type suspension you want to jack from a cross member? And only jack one wheel up at a time right?
Nice video
tHIS GUY IS GOOD!
Thank you
Do you change both outers/inners same time or only the bad ones
Hey Makuloco I have a question I know you're a master ford tech so I'm hoping you might have come across this particular suspension symptom that I cannot seem to figure out, I have a 2013 F150 2wd replaced all front suspension components with some "overbuilt" mevotech parts except for monroe coilovers/sway bar bushings and motorcraft inner tie rods. When I go over a pothole my passenger side wheel makes a clunk sound like if every component on that side was loose. Nothing looks loose, I raised the wheel in the air then checked at the 3 and 9/12 and 6 oclock position but didn't find any play. What could my issue be?
Bro, quick question, lately iv been having my steering a bit hard, iv done the ball joint and tie rod end inspection and all seems fine... Any idea of what might be going on there?
got jeep put new tie rods on. My manual torque wrench sucks needs to be replaced for sure. Think i over tightened one rods with this wrench. Just keeps spining center shaft does not and holds 45 pounds. Is it possible to over tighten and pull rod apart? I greased threads and maybe half issue. Moog part I am going to go by feel for now on
I have a 2005 Ford Sport Trac do I have to load the lower control arm to check the tie rods and ball joints? Meaning do I have to put a floor jack or something under the lower control arm? Thank you everybody. I see you jacked the truck up under the LCA
I had my front struts replaced on my 2007 Expedition EL a few weeks ago. They replaced with KYB. When I got it back there seems to be a clunk now over bumps. Took it back and they tried to tell me the inner tie rods are bad now. I took it to some speed bumps and when I roll over the speed bumps it seems the clunk happens when the suspension rebounds, not on compression stroke. This is not tie rod ends, right? What should I look for? Thanks!
Thanks man! ford strong 💪
Thanks bob
When doing this test...did you jack up the whole front end or one side at a time?? Thanks
Thank you for being straight to the point.
Thanks Mackuloco
So jack it up by the control arm is the 1st thing to go then shake the wheel?
Hey boss everytime I jack my truck from the front and both tires on the front are off the ground I can move my tires side to side and it movies like if I was steering it away could that be the problem
Thank you. Simple, but if you don’t know, you don’t know.
I just had my brother bounce on my front bumper and I put the palm of my hand on the joints. I felt it pop in and out as well heard a clunk on the upper ball joint. Is that a good method? 👍
If you are testing , can you do this test with steering wheel turned?
OMG your knees at 2:00!!! :X
+hitchhikingmike I know I know I am very lucky to not have any knee problems.
Thanks
damn excellent video bro. a lady friend of many recently bought this 01 ford escort auto 2.0 zetec and there is a rotational noise on front passenger side whenever going over 20mph, i was thinking the wheel bearing but checking it at 6 and 12 shows no looseness at all. Could it still be the bearing that is just worn on one spot and seems solid while stationary but it manifest its noise when under load and moving or what could it be?
+Ll Lock yes definitely most times there is no looseness but the ball bearings are pitted causing the noise.
What I saw at the beginning of the video was loose lug nuts. Did you do that to simulate the problem?
Well done..thanks much..
Did you put the jack on the lower control arm or somewhere else?
I had the same play left to right but then my buddy noticed the steering wheel moving. After one of us held the wheel there was no play at all. Could that still be tie rod issues or did the steering just not lock?
Is this the same procedure for the rear tire too?
Ironman Avengers Music intro 👍
I have used that method for years but when I need to see inner or outer and I'm by myself I just remove the wheel. Then I can see everything. You just have to work the disc heavier as you don't have the leverage of the tire.
+chesh47 Yerah that's the part I don't like about pulling the tire off it makes it much harder to find the less obvious ones.
Should steering wheel be locked?