i've watched 57 episodes this week. Absolutely loving learning some "how to" (and a few "how not to) tips for your DIY sailboat refit. Keep up the great work :)
I love that you are doing the best you can, you make mistakes occasionally but they are always reasoned choices.The best part is that you explain your thinking and admit when things don't work - so we can all learn with you. You have a great attitude...if you wait until it is perfect you will never leave port :) Thank you for another great video.
Great videos....your giving me some great ideas for my power boat refit......and I have a new favorite beer from your videos "diver down" thanks you guy's!
I really enjoy your videos. So nice to have the dreams that you will look forward to become reality. Cant wait to see the completion and some of your sailing adventures
The countertop looks great. You might find that as the countertop ages the seams will blend in with the rest of the surface and you will have a nice patina overall. It seams that Mads has trainees in the arts of sanding world wide. By the time you are in the water you'll both be advanced level sanders. Have a good week.
Thank you for all of your videos. I've slowly been watching all of your videos from the beginning and am finally caught up as of today. I look forward to seeing where your journey takes you.
.... I believe it will be absolutely fantastic ..... did you see what was there before, .... what a difference ...... I'm thinking you will be proud every time you walk into the galley .... bang up job you two DIYers .... have fun be safe, save our oceans ......
I am getting exhausted by just watching you two work on your boat :) What keeps you going ? How do you motivate yourselves after a long day of hard labor work ? It will definitely look fantastic when you guys are done, cant wait to see the final look.
Look, your DIY sailors right. Your forfilling your dream, and it looks great. Little imperfections such as the counter tops is nothing unless the boat floats. Safety is you biggest encounter. If the boat gets you point A to B, then your on track for a great adventure. Keep the film coming. Good Luck!
I like you guys thoughts to the countertops. Once you are out on the water the last thing you will be worrying over is the color difference in the seam. It looks good. Some final sanding and it will all smooth out. Interesting technique with the hot glue. Whatever works right?
Yeah I was surprised how well the hot glue trick worked. And the hot glue came off relatively easy which was what I worried about. Thanks for watching!
Pro tip: rubbing alcohol makes hot glue detach from whatever it's attached to. Try it. Just a few drops where the hot glue meets the part and about 30 seconds. It's like some kind of magic.
Coming along nicely guys. And you're right, who's going to stress over a counter seam when you're in blue tropical waters? You're going to be in that galley as little as possible! ^_^
Looking good guys! You should polish your stainless with first 400 grit then a buff pad with metal compound. First black then green. You can get them at Harbor freight. Makes a huge difference to the corrosion factor when you have a high polished surface, also looks amazing. And of course will make your boat sail faster LOL
Just had the distinction of being Like number 1000... With 5,610 views currently, I wonder about the other 4,000 viewers: "What's not to like?" Keep following your dreams, and thanks for taking folks like me along...! Glad to 'know' you! :)
I am so glad I never bought a project like this.. In the time that you have spent on working on the boat, I would have travelled thousands of miles on my old Morgan..
I agree, I don't think the seam is going to be that visible once the whole countertop is completely sanded. I think you guys are doing a great job and I'm really enjoying seeing it all come together! Your vision and hard work is quite inspiring. I follow several different VLOG's and I really think I enjoy the re-fitting ones more then the actual cruising ones. LOL! I myself am re-fitting a 1970 Grand Banks trawler which I bought with a blown motor. Did find that out till I took delivery....not discovered on the survey. (survey's are a waste of money! and even if they are wrong you have no recourse) Whether it's sail or power, I always learn something or get new ideas so it's really really helpful. Tell me, where are you finding the new edge (I think you called it a fiddle) for the countertop? I want to replace my old mustard colored yellow formica with something more modern looking eventually. My engine and engine room are taking up all my money and time for right now. Good Luck and Keep Up The Good Work!!! Thanks for sharing!!!!
Thanks for the good vibes! We are actually using left over solid surface to make the fiddle. So far it has been easy to work with this material. It is a bit expensive, but if you can find remnants that work for you, you can get them a lot cheaper. Shops just have extra bits laying around taking up space and not making them money, so give them a good offer. Surveys are tough because everyone says you should get them but they cant get to all of the places that need to be inspected some times. Good luck on your refit! Hopefully you get that engine situated.
After sanding with very fine sandpaper, buff the entire counter top with buffing pad & buffing liquid the counter top place sells. Seams will disappear. Looks very good. Don’t rush, do a good job, couple of days extra won’t matter. ‼️⛵️ Vinny 🇺🇸
Well I couldn't see the seam! If you let the glue cure longer it might get a little harder and sand a little differently. I might try wet sanding to get a better finish if you want to. Cheers Warren
Countertop seam trick... liberally sprinkle some sanding dust from countertop over the imperfect seam after gluing... seam will virtually disappear after cleanup I do realize that this Hint from Heloise is two years too late
I've seen seamless results after sanding when the bonding glue was a lil tacky. Holds the sanded particles in the seam to cover it. 1000 grit finish to make it disappear. Getting closer to the water. All the hard work pays off. Could you post a link for me to your Stuff-4-Sail page?
Oh that's an interesting trick! Our big mistake was getting the adhesive through a different company than the manufacturer I think. But yes, so close to getting back in the water. We don't really have a page for the things we have for sale, but that's a good idea. Might have to think about that. We have a propane range (oven/stove) for $200 and the four older bronze portlights for $200 (no trim rings). I think that's it at the moment.
I have to say, that expecting what you called an "imperfect" joint to look perfect after sanding is to high an expectation. This sort of counter top only hides the joint if you do the prep work to a high standard. That said, this sort of material for the countertop is a great idea.
That's the sucky thing about diy. You know exactly where the imperfections are and to you, they're glaring but to the rest of the world, we don't even see them. I love the counters!
Super glue half inch by half inch by quarter inch thick solid surface pieces every 4 inch about 1 inch away for both seems so you can clamp the two pieces together when you're done just sand the solid surface trunks away
note on the counter top. I don't have experience with the exact same product but I think you'd be better off to sand/buff with fine grit on the seams rather than sand the whole top.
Back from my IKEA sink syphon run and just an update, the new design doesn't suck that bad anymore. Still expensive... Anyway looks good and will work.
... so ... the heart of the problem is that the hardened glue is softer than the counter top material and sands out faster. A padded sander, even a hard rubber pad, will dip down into the seam and sand out the glue very quickly, like sanding oak wood filled with softer wood putty, and "edge sanding" with the sander amplifies this. The way to knock down the bead of glue is to use a wood block and hand sand the bead staying away from the counter top material as much as possible; then with very fine grit paper, sand lightly and quickly to blend the different materials. From what shows in the video, I agree with your decision to move on and live with a visual flaw only you will see. In case y'all had a moment of concern, the Casey Ann and I survived Hurricane Florence. I made a poor choice to leave my 140% racing jib on the furler (in too much of a hurry). It's now, with a little sewing, a 70% storm sail (at least I didn't loose it completely). The partially unraveled jib, flapping like an angry ostrich beat the mast spreaders like a jack hammer - broke one in half and dislodged the other. I watched it helplessly from a condo at the marina as 100 mph winds broad-side bent the mast like an archer's bow. Only by luck or divine intervention or 1960's Chris Craft overkill engineering, the mast is still perfectly straight. A hastily closed hatch and three days of driving rain and a flaky bilge pump float switch (been procrastinating replacing it) left enough water in the bilge to cover the deck by 1 to 2 inches and a week later I'm still battling humidity build up from all that water, damp cloths in the coat locker and standing water in hard to reach nooks and crannies. The southern coast of N.Carolina had minimal storm surge (Frying Pan Shoal is good for something after all) and this marina in Southport came through unscathed except it lost all it's Wifi antennas, replaced finally today. The moral: don't put off doing things that should have been done yesterday, but don't be in too much of a hurry to neglect that little extra that makes all the difference in the end.
Was that a steel wire bush you were using on the stainless. There are better products you can use, the steel will leave iron oxide in welds and crevasses and actually accelerate corrosion. You can get the same if not better results using 3M abrasive wheels and disks on any metal surface on your boat.
I am really amazed for your efforts to realize your dreams. Wishing successes and luck in your journey .I just would like to understand the idea under putting 10hp emotor with 12 100AH batteries for roughly 20K USD for now out of other expenses like charger and solars and possibly a gen-set instead not putting a brand new Yanmar 30/40hp with brand new gearbox for 13/15K USD which is much more reliable,powerful and feasible.You are saying no more diesel on the boat while getting diesel tank out of the boat but you can not run that emotor effectively without a generator.Even you run at fine times you gonna have hectic times while you need to go against 5-6n currents and swells.Good luck .Have fun.
Thanks for watching! We are hoping not to have a genset because you are correct, that would defeat the purpose for us. The reason we want to go electric is so that we do not have to rely on diesel for propulsion. We do not want to feel pressured to go ashore for fuel. Obviously we do not know how the system will work until we are on the water and have tested it out.
Wondering why you chose the smaller electric to drive your boat .... Your old Diesel was a 20hp / 13.4 KW motor. It looks like you went with much smaller motor output with the QuietTorque-10 @13hp vs the QuietTorque-20 @20hp which is rated at 20kw surge rating with a 16kw continuous power input which is the diesel equiv plus a little reserve power and would not be worked so hard and last longer the price difference between the two isn't that great considering longevity and future replacement costs.
We just went with the recommendation of Electric Yacht. According to the people we talked to this should be sufficient for our boat. Hopefully it works out.
Don't take this wrong, i'm just a simple machine designer watching you kids doing your part in saving the world. I just don't to see you get screwed in the process. Did Electric Yacht give you this motor to try or are you out of pocket for this? If your out of pocket for this motor, I would go with the larger QuietTorque-20 motor so that your not running it full out at cruise speed, its service life would be greatly reduced.and your $$$ would be wasted running it that hard for long periods The price difference is not that great but the savings to you after the fact is worth it. Remember your pushing around a 42 foot boat with all kinds of external forces working on it that that to be overcome or managed . And you will not always have the wind working in your favor!
Totally understand and appreciate you looking out for us! We actually have a 32 foot boat though. Not sure if that changes your opinion. We received a discount on the engine, but we are out of pocket for it. I would think if the company really thought this was under powered though, they would have gladly taken more of our money. Lol. They seem confident this is the right fit for us.
The short answer in no, I'd go with the larger motor for all the reasons I have mentioned ... I'd talk to some more people about this (marine eng/designer) pay him for his time cheap insurance, before locking it down (powering it up) Good luck it is not too late to make the change .... I'll be watching you and Abandon Comfort as you guys go thru your learning experience.
gosh, I feel silly now after my comment in the other video asking why even bother with the seam at all. I have done clear epoxy counters, they are easy to make, and look awesome when you put some shells and stuff inside the epoxy, but maybe in the next boat.
It’s not necessarily about the seam it’s self as much as it is caring about your work. And I certainly hope that wasn’t in reference to on board lifestyle?? his boat is amazing. Additionally, we think that you could polish out that same and you wouldn’t even see it anyways.
about the seams / color match and really a lot of things in life: aim for perfection / be happy with Damm Good no one will notice / you'll soon forget You'll be sailin' & swimmin' & cookin' &&& xxx
breezyjr there was an issue with the way the mic picked up the sound for those clips. I'm not sure what happened. The mic seems to be working fine now. Can you still hear/understand?
Cause I realize I worded my question wrong last time your battery box you have your batteries wired parallel your cables that come out of the box to to power everything what's your reasoning for having those cables come out of the back of the box by your steering box
The positive comes out the starboard side and the negative comes out the port side. This is to help the bank charge and discharge in a more balanced way. I may not be making sense here but it will all be explained in an upcoming video.
That coupler you have for the motor to the shaft is nice, but bear in mind that hard couplers liek that are for very precisely engineered systems. A system like a prop shaft, with some "angular play" will bend the shaft a bit as it turns. That will in turn wear your gearbox. Solution: flexible prop shaft coupler. Examples: propshopinc.com/drivesaver-flexible-shaft-coupling-c373/
yeah watch out with solid couplers. If they're included it's because it was an economic decision: it's the cheapest coupler available. Solid couplers transmit stress straight to your gearbox, which makes for wear. Flex couplers that give a few degrees of "flex" are standard for use on most power trains. Check out Untie the Lines where she is installing the flexible motor coupler. Also look at this wikipedia image of a drive shaft. Universal joints (flexible) at each end allow for misalignment. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drive_shaft#/media/File:Cardan_Shaft.jpg
Hi guys. Curious how much the total electric conversion cost. Where's the install episode? For those of us who don't get discounts, so far I've counted 12 batteries at $1000 each, the electric motor is $6000, so that's $18,000 uninstalled? What other parts, controllers, converters, switches, electrical etc did you have to buy and install? How much are the other bits? Adding it all up, you're looking at what, $25,000 all-in for the electric motor conversion, paying retail, doing all my own work? If you own the boat for 4 years, that's $4,167 per year or about $521/mo. Is there an episode that's *only* the motor install? With total retail cost? All parts and install please? Can't find it. You'd get a ton of views on that and most of us in the market for an electric conversion would enjoy it. Thanks. Great work overall.
Really really have to make sure you buy specific stainless steel brushes... they don’t come from any stores usually without ordering... impregnating mild steel into the stainless will start rust within weeks.
Stainless that has been "textured" with a wire brush, of any material, can still rust. You can sit at the table, watch Netflix, and polish those chain plates one at a time, or do it with a cloth pad on the dremel and stainless polish compound. All these comments are advice you'll kick yourself for not heeding three months after re-mounting them out in the weather. Scratched stainless DOES rust, and fairly quickly.
DANGER WILL ROBINSON! IF YOU USE HYDROFLOURIC ACID MAKE SURE YOU READ UP ON THE SAFETY CONCERNS. A SPILL ON THE SKIN THE SIZE OF YOUR PALM PENETRATES RAPIDLY AND CAN KILL YOU. MANY COMMON CHEMICAL GLOVES ARE POROUS TO HF ACID. Sorry about the shouting, but it's important info!
Looks great. You'll never care about that seam. It's barely visible when the counter is clean and empty and I'll tell you right now that it's going to be covered in crap half the time anyhow. You might want to consider bumping up the fiddle size to closer to 2" high over the countertop. 1" is barely enough. 1.5" is better. I see that you have quite a bit of real estate to hide below that with the countertop and the plywood plus the thickened epoxy that you had to put in there to get the darn countertop level. That's going to mean your fiddle board will need to be pretty tall. A 3" piece might do the trick. Be sure to put a routered edge on that fiddle so you get a nice tight fit with the fiddle up against the counter. If you just slap a flat piece on there you are guaranteed to get some spots where it will not be perfectly tight and crap is going to fall into the crack at that corner. Router that bad boy down 3/16" at least or rip it down on the inside using a tablesaw if you have a good one with a featherboard on it so it stays tight against the fence. If you have a good router that's the best bet but make sure to keep it level which can be hard on thin piece of board. You can also go ahead and put a bevel on the outside of the fiddle which will make it look less blocky. Most boatbuilders put that bevel on their fiddles. Something like a 15-degree angle so the fiddle it thinner on the top than at the bottom. Experiment with some scrap wood before trying it on expensive lumber. Play with it until you like the look and then make it out of the good stuff. Our boat is almost all mahogany inside with a few teak pieces here and there for contrast. Looks beauty.
Thanks Duckworth! Good advice. We did router the edge of the counter. We were thinking a 3" strip for the fiddle as well. Hopefully it turns out nice. We will probably play around with some router bits to see what we like for the top of the fiddle.
Learning the Lines I can't wait to see the finished product. The galley area is already taking shape nicely. That Ikea sink and the articulated faucet are sweet additions. Plus a level and even coutertop is a huge improvement on the original.
I'm serious about the countertop being usually covered. With storage space being so limited the coutertop is going to end up being an unpacking zone whenever you are digging through the lockers and storage spaces, the tabletop and settees too. When crammed-up packed and fully provisioned before heading across the Gulf Stream that's going to be the only free place to put anything other than the cabin sole when you are digging through lockers for anything. Few are going to be the times when everything is put away perfectly and you will have bare counters unless you are organizational and put-away mavens. Our horizontal surfaces almost never are. We could have an flaming green and orange inlay of a clown in full size laid into the white formica countertop and you'd never be able to see it under all the stuff piled up on there usually. Most of the time we have to dig just to get at the icebox and open it up, as it is often covered with crap too. #livingonaboat
Here is an uneducated suggestion about your prop shaft. I would talk to someone knowledgeable about whether butting the motor shaft to the prop shaft. With heat generated by the motor, there could be lengthening of the motor shaft, by a fraction of an inch, which could pose a problem for the prop shaft. It could cause the coupling to become loose. Just thinking out loud, but I think it's something that would be worth talking to a marine mechanic about.
i've watched 57 episodes this week. Absolutely loving learning some "how to" (and a few "how not to) tips for your DIY sailboat refit.
Keep up the great work :)
Love the decision to not worry with silly seams. Sail on!!
I love that you are doing the best you can, you make mistakes occasionally but they are always reasoned choices.The best part is that you explain your thinking and admit when things don't work - so we can all learn with you. You have a great attitude...if you wait until it is perfect you will never leave port :) Thank you for another great video.
Thank you, Jeffrey! We appreciate it. ♡
It's great that you guys are still smiling so much while working so hard in the boatyard.
Thank you! It can be difficult at times. Lol
Your positive attitude is infectious ;-) Great job on the countertop!!
BoatworksToday, thanks so much! Good luck with the transition to full time TH-camr. We're excited for you.
So glad I found your channel. I’m really enjoying watching these videos!
Looking great. I wouldn't worry about the seams that nobody will ever notice anyway. You will be finished in no time and ready for her maiden voyage.
We hope so! Thanks for watching. :)
Hey guys. Just want you to know your doing great. I love the counter top. Who cares if you have a sight seam.
It looks great, don't sweat the small stuff!
Thanks! We try not to.
Great videos....your giving me some great ideas for my power boat refit......and I have a new favorite beer from your videos "diver down" thanks you guy's!
I really enjoy your videos. So nice to have the dreams that you will look forward to become reality. Cant wait to see the completion and some of your sailing adventures
Great video. You two are doing some good work, but don't stress over the little things.
Thanks! We try not to.
The countertop looks great. You might find that as the countertop ages the seams will blend in with the rest of the surface and you will have a nice patina overall. It seams that Mads has trainees in the arts of sanding world wide. By the time you are in the water you'll both be advanced level sanders. Have a good week.
Thanks for watching! I had to laugh at envisioning a "Mads School of Sanding" as I read your comment. Lol
Thank you for all of your videos. I've slowly been watching all of your videos from the beginning and am finally caught up as of today. I look forward to seeing where your journey takes you.
Awesome! Thanks for watching! ♡
OMG, so much work. You two are tough.
I am so glad to finally see that wonderful electric aboard. Cant wait to see the boat in the water and moving forward.
We can't wait either!
I think it looks great! I’m really excited to see the electric sailboat in the water.
We can't wait to get her in the water!
Hi Keeping going you're doing a great job! Love you're work and vlogs.
Thanks so much for watching!
Good Tube! I use brass brushes not metal to clean up metal and whatnot, it doesn’t scratch the surface as much.
Interesting!
.... I believe it will be absolutely fantastic ..... did you see what was there before, .... what a difference ...... I'm thinking you will be proud every time you walk into the galley .... bang up job you two DIYers .... have fun be safe, save our oceans ......
Thank you, Peter! ♡
The counter looks great! Really good job!
Thank you!
I am getting exhausted by just watching you two work on your boat :) What keeps you going ? How do you motivate yourselves after a long day of hard labor work ? It will definitely look fantastic when you guys are done, cant wait to see the final look.
Look, your DIY sailors right. Your forfilling your dream, and it looks great. Little imperfections such as the counter tops is nothing unless the boat floats. Safety is you biggest encounter. If the boat gets you point A to B, then your on track for a great adventure. Keep the film coming. Good Luck!
Thank you! We certainly agree.
I like you guys thoughts to the countertops. Once you are out on the water the last thing you will be worrying over is the color difference in the seam. It looks good. Some final sanding and it will all smooth out. Interesting technique with the hot glue. Whatever works right?
Yeah I was surprised how well the hot glue trick worked. And the hot glue came off relatively easy which was what I worried about. Thanks for watching!
Pro tip: rubbing alcohol makes hot glue detach from whatever it's attached to. Try it. Just a few drops where the hot glue meets the part and about 30 seconds. It's like some kind of magic.
Awesome! Thanks for the tip.
Seamless you get if the two sides match up precise.
We tried our best.
Auhh, glorious glorious sanding.
Oh glorious sanding
Coming along nicely guys. And you're right, who's going to stress over a counter seam when you're in blue tropical waters? You're going to be in that galley as little as possible! ^_^
We agree!
Looking good guys! You should polish your stainless with first 400 grit then a buff pad with metal compound. First black then green. You can get them at Harbor freight. Makes a huge difference to the corrosion factor when you have a high polished surface, also looks amazing. And of course will make your boat sail faster LOL
Lol of course it will!
Nice to know I’m not the only one that struggles through projects:)
I'm sure there are plenty of us who do. Lol.
Where might you all be as looking for a new place to move my boat to? And good job on counter.
Dutchman Sailing, somewhere in the south Florida area. East coast until late November/early December
I think Jordan thought you were asking where we are moving our boat to. We are currently located in the Port Charlotte area of Florida.
The counter top looks good on my screen. If you have extra make a cover for the sink and the drain area.
If there's extra we may, or we may do one out of wood.
Just had the distinction of being Like number 1000... With 5,610 views currently, I wonder about the other 4,000 viewers: "What's not to like?"
Keep following your dreams, and thanks for taking folks like me along...! Glad to 'know' you! :)
Lol thank you for watching and taking the time to like and comment! Glad to have you along. :)
I am so glad I never bought a project like this.. In the time that you have spent on working on the boat, I would have travelled thousands of miles on my old Morgan..
True. Its a lot of work.
another consideration for the perfectly flush seam surface is that it will have less of a joint exposed,thus less glue exposure
Yeah, that's why we wanted to keep our cuts as straight as possible.
I agree, I don't think the seam is going to be that visible once the whole countertop is completely sanded. I think you guys are doing a great job and I'm really enjoying seeing it all come together! Your vision and hard work is quite inspiring. I follow several different VLOG's and I really think I enjoy the re-fitting ones more then the actual cruising ones. LOL! I myself am re-fitting a 1970 Grand Banks trawler which I bought with a blown motor. Did find that out till I took delivery....not discovered on the survey. (survey's are a waste of money! and even if they are wrong you have no recourse) Whether it's sail or power, I always learn something or get new ideas so it's really really helpful. Tell me, where are you finding the new edge (I think you called it a fiddle) for the countertop? I want to replace my old mustard colored yellow formica with something more modern looking eventually. My engine and engine room are taking up all my money and time for right now. Good Luck and Keep Up The Good Work!!! Thanks for sharing!!!!
Thanks for the good vibes! We are actually using left over solid surface to make the fiddle. So far it has been easy to work with this material. It is a bit expensive, but if you can find remnants that work for you, you can get them a lot cheaper. Shops just have extra bits laying around taking up space and not making them money, so give them a good offer. Surveys are tough because everyone says you should get them but they cant get to all of the places that need to be inspected some times. Good luck on your refit! Hopefully you get that engine situated.
You guys are doing a great job.
Thanks so much!
After sanding with very fine sandpaper, buff the entire counter top with buffing pad & buffing liquid the counter top place sells. Seams will disappear. Looks very good. Don’t rush, do a good job, couple of days extra won’t matter. ‼️⛵️ Vinny 🇺🇸
Good thinking, guys! We will keep this in mind.
i think a driveshaft bearing with a grease zerk is needed
Nice jorts! You're definitely a Floridian now!
Lol that florida style
Well I couldn't see the seam! If you let the glue cure longer it might get a little harder and sand a little differently. I might try wet sanding to get a better finish if you want to. Cheers Warren
Thanks for watching, Warren! Yes, we definitely think wet sanding will help.
It looks good, Nice job better than I thought
Thank you!
It was refreshing to see you guys sawed through your work table top in a couple places. I might know a guy who has done that before. 😅
Haha yeah we've done it 4 times now 🤣
Countertop seam trick... liberally sprinkle some sanding dust from countertop over the imperfect seam after gluing... seam will virtually disappear after cleanup
I do realize that this Hint from Heloise is two years too late
I've seen seamless results after sanding when the bonding glue was a lil tacky. Holds the sanded particles in the seam to cover it. 1000 grit finish to make it disappear. Getting closer to the water. All the hard work pays off. Could you post a link for me to your Stuff-4-Sail page?
Oh that's an interesting trick! Our big mistake was getting the adhesive through a different company than the manufacturer I think. But yes, so close to getting back in the water. We don't really have a page for the things we have for sale, but that's a good idea. Might have to think about that. We have a propane range (oven/stove) for $200 and the four older bronze portlights for $200 (no trim rings). I think that's it at the moment.
An old wood working trick is to mix the sanding dust with the adhesive to hide the glue line, works great for nail holes as well. Great video guys!
Great job , well done guys , keep up the good work
Thank you!
I have to say, that expecting what you called an "imperfect" joint to look perfect after sanding is to high an expectation. This sort of counter top only hides the joint if you do the prep work to a high standard. That said, this sort of material for the countertop is a great idea.
That's the sucky thing about diy. You know exactly where the imperfections are and to you, they're glaring but to the rest of the world, we don't even see them. I love the counters!
Keep telling yourselves, the seam doesn't matter," and eventually you'll believe it. Fair winds and a following sea.- Bob
Thanks for watching, Robert!
Super glue half inch by half inch by quarter inch thick solid surface pieces every 4 inch about 1 inch away for both seems so you can clamp the two pieces together when you're done just sand the solid surface trunks away
That would be a lot of sanding
note on the counter top. I don't have experience with the exact same product but I think you'd be better off to sand/buff with fine grit on the seams rather than sand the whole top.
Since we just sanded at the seams before we need to make sure it's all at the same level. It'll be a light sanding over the whole surface luckily.
Use a router and a really good straight edge for your solid surface and I'll seem together perfectly
Thats what we were thinking
Your doing an amazing job!..thanks for sharing :-)
Thanks for watching! :)
2:03 Why is there only audio in the left earbud?
Johnathan Dietz i am having the same problme
My right ear feels left out
Sorry we had some mic issues that day. Not sure why. Maybe two pairs of ear buds with left side in each ear? Lol. Hopefully it won't happen again.
put in your right earbud
The important thing is knowing when good enough is not good enough and when perfect is required. 🙂 you probably know that already ... 👍
Lol hopefully
great job you guys
Thank you!
your at the top of the counter when it comes to videos.....
Willson LeFevers, lol thanks
Doing good guys. Keep going. 😁👍
Thank you! We are chugging along.
what is the countertop made from ?
when you were talking about perfectionist all i could think of was SV Basik :)
Can't say we are familiar with them. Lol. Thanks for watching!
th-cam.com/channels/oxPH3YeAw7J-fOmScQuJ2A.html
But Basik is nauseatingly scripted when the girls are on. yall are keeping it real.
@@jaymondy lol yeah we like to be real with you guys. :)
Basik? Is this a reference to the small, dumb humanoid creatures on the planet Marduk? Damn good books!
Love the vid's....the only complaint....we need more videos!!!!! :0) Keep up the great work!
Lol thanks for watching!
good work
Thank you!
Looks great! Excited to see how the engine works... we just got our electric yacht on board but it’s so much bigger. Can’t manhandle ours. LOL 😂
Lol awesome. We can't wait to see how it works either.
Good job guys! I look forward to seeing the finished counter top. Will sanding it with finer grits eventually give it some luster?
Yes, we're going to do some high grit wet sanding.
I hit that bell guys. Keep’em coming!
Awesome! Thanks for following along with us!
Been thinking about getting the electric engine. Need a new one. And I thin I can get it out to the boat with out a slip. Any one have advice?
Turned captions on for the part where audio wasn't clear, so no issues.
Ah! Good idea.
Back from my IKEA sink syphon run and just an update, the new design doesn't suck that bad anymore. Still expensive... Anyway looks good and will work.
Good news!
It's been two years? What? I thought I got here at the beginning. Time flies...
Lol it sure does.
Looks good
Thanks for watching!
Awesome video except for the Lightning shirt in the end. GO BRUINS.
Lol got to represent the home team
Or you could treat the stainless with a passivation product like Citrisurf to remove any iron contamination
Thanks for the tip!
The first video i see of yall in Caribbean waters...
So tell me what yall think about those seams in the counter top....
Lol please do that
I have been making lots of mistakes too lol costly ones.
Sorry to hear that. We can definitely sympathize with you.
Nice video
Thanks for watching!
Air you filming that with a phone ? Bicus its a good quality
Sometimes we film with our phone if we don't have the camera out. Most of the time we film with our Panasonic camera though.
oh, glorious sanding..will there ever be something more enjoyable and fast paced?
also, motor looks great! :)
austin, you've been watching one too many saillife videos, haven't you. With the "oh glorious sanding" comment. Mads just loves his sanders....
Cawffee_ Tyme haha...maybe
But who doesn't love Mads and his glorious, glorious sanding. Thanks for watching!
Looking good
Thanks!
... so ... the heart of the problem is that the hardened glue is softer than the counter top material and sands out faster. A padded sander, even a hard rubber pad, will dip down into the seam and sand out the glue very quickly, like sanding oak wood filled with softer wood putty, and "edge sanding" with the sander amplifies this. The way to knock down the bead of glue is to use a wood block and hand sand the bead staying away from the counter top material as much as possible; then with very fine grit paper, sand lightly and quickly to blend the different materials. From what shows in the video, I agree with your decision to move on and live with a visual flaw only you will see.
In case y'all had a moment of concern, the Casey Ann and I survived Hurricane Florence. I made a poor choice to leave my 140% racing jib on the furler (in too much of a hurry). It's now, with a little sewing, a 70% storm sail (at least I didn't loose it completely). The partially unraveled jib, flapping like an angry ostrich beat the mast spreaders like a jack hammer - broke one in half and dislodged the other. I watched it helplessly from a condo at the marina as 100 mph winds broad-side bent the mast like an archer's bow. Only by luck or divine intervention or 1960's Chris Craft overkill engineering, the mast is still perfectly straight. A hastily closed hatch and three days of driving rain and a flaky bilge pump float switch (been procrastinating replacing it) left enough water in the bilge to cover the deck by 1 to 2 inches and a week later I'm still battling humidity build up from all that water, damp cloths in the coat locker and standing water in hard to reach nooks and crannies. The southern coast of N.Carolina had minimal storm surge (Frying Pan Shoal is good for something after all) and this marina in Southport came through unscathed except it lost all it's Wifi antennas, replaced finally today. The moral: don't put off doing things that should have been done yesterday, but don't be in too much of a hurry to neglect that little extra that makes all the difference in the end.
Wow! Glad to hear you are okay. Good luck with your repairs. Hope all goes well. Thanks for letting us know how things turned out.
Was that a steel wire bush you were using on the stainless. There are better products you can use, the steel will leave iron oxide in welds and crevasses and actually accelerate corrosion. You can get the same if not better results using 3M abrasive wheels and disks on any metal surface on your boat.
Thanks for the info. We are definitely going to keep that in mind now.
Try these for cleanup SEPTLS40504801124243 - 3M Abrasive Scotch-Brite Bristle Discs - 048011-24243 www.amazon.com/dp/B004VTPNL2/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_tai_AB9QBb70AW841
SEPTLS40504801124243 - 3M Abrasive Scotch-Brite Bristle Discs - 048011-24243 www.amazon.com/dp/B004VTPNL2/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_tai_AB9QBb70AW841
I am really amazed for your efforts to realize your dreams. Wishing successes and luck in your journey .I just would like to understand the idea under putting 10hp emotor with 12 100AH batteries for roughly 20K USD for now out of other expenses like charger and solars and possibly a gen-set instead not putting a brand new Yanmar 30/40hp with brand new gearbox for 13/15K USD which is much more reliable,powerful and feasible.You are saying no more diesel on the boat while getting diesel tank out of the boat but you can not run that emotor effectively without a generator.Even you run at fine times you gonna have hectic times while you need to go against 5-6n currents and swells.Good luck .Have fun.
Thanks for watching! We are hoping not to have a genset because you are correct, that would defeat the purpose for us. The reason we want to go electric is so that we do not have to rely on diesel for propulsion. We do not want to feel pressured to go ashore for fuel. Obviously we do not know how the system will work until we are on the water and have tested it out.
I hope you used a stainless wire brush to clean those chain plates.
Hello guys,
If you don't mind asking, where is that boatyard?
Only asking, I'm in Miami and here boatyards are crazy expensive.
It's in the Port Charlotte area on the west coast of Florida. Its called J & R Marine Services.
Wondering why you chose the smaller electric to drive your boat .... Your old Diesel was a 20hp / 13.4 KW motor.
It looks like you went with much smaller motor output with the QuietTorque-10 @13hp vs the QuietTorque-20 @20hp which is rated at 20kw surge rating with a 16kw continuous power input which is the diesel equiv plus a little reserve power and would not be worked so hard and last longer the price difference between the two isn't that great considering longevity and future replacement costs.
We just went with the recommendation of Electric Yacht. According to the people we talked to this should be sufficient for our boat. Hopefully it works out.
Don't take this wrong, i'm just a simple machine designer watching you kids doing your part in saving the world. I just don't to see you get screwed in the process.
Did Electric Yacht give you this motor to try or are you out of pocket for this?
If your out of pocket for this motor, I would go with the larger QuietTorque-20 motor so that your not running it full out at cruise speed, its service life would be greatly reduced.and your $$$ would be wasted running it that hard for long periods
The price difference is not that great but the savings to you after the fact is worth it. Remember your pushing around a 42 foot boat with all kinds of external forces working on it that that to be overcome or managed . And you will not always have the wind working in your favor!
Totally understand and appreciate you looking out for us! We actually have a 32 foot boat though. Not sure if that changes your opinion. We received a discount on the engine, but we are out of pocket for it. I would think if the company really thought this was under powered though, they would have gladly taken more of our money. Lol. They seem confident this is the right fit for us.
The short answer in no, I'd go with the larger motor for all the reasons I have mentioned ... I'd talk to some more people about this (marine eng/designer) pay him for his time cheap insurance, before locking it down (powering it up) Good luck it is not too late to make the change .... I'll be watching you and Abandon Comfort as you guys go thru your learning experience.
Thanks for the advice
gosh, I feel silly now after my comment in the other video asking why even bother with the seam at all.
I have done clear epoxy counters, they are easy to make, and look awesome when you put some shells and stuff inside the epoxy, but maybe in the next boat.
Sound...?
Unfortunately our mic was acting up for a bit there. We did what we could, but it's still funky. Sorry about that.
That seam was the he first thing I noticed.....I would never be caught dead on a boat with a seam like that.
It's the worst.
It’s not necessarily about the seam it’s self as much as it is caring about your work. And I certainly hope that wasn’t in reference to on board lifestyle?? his boat is amazing. Additionally, we think that you could polish out that same and you wouldn’t even see it anyways.
We have this in our kitchen. Scratches and dings seem to disappear. Those probably will too.
Good to hear!
about the seams / color match
and really a lot of things in life:
aim for perfection / be happy with Damm Good
no one will notice / you'll soon forget
You'll be sailin' & swimmin' & cookin' &&&
xxx
Is the audio messed up, or is it me...??
breezyjr, at what point in the video?
Starts at 2:05 through 5:02
breezyjr there was an issue with the way the mic picked up the sound for those clips. I'm not sure what happened. The mic seems to be working fine now. Can you still hear/understand?
I can hear if I turn the volume up, but it seems I can pretty much tell what's going on just by watching...
PS, I finally decided to become a patreon.. You guys seem like good people, so happy to throw some money in the beer fund...
Forget the counter top lines :) Don't sweat the small stuff :)
Trying not to!
Cause I realize I worded my question wrong last time your battery box you have your batteries wired parallel your cables that come out of the box to to power everything what's your reasoning for having those cables come out of the back of the box by your steering box
They actually come out the sides. They go to large bus bars on the port side of the box, to which everything else connects.
The positive comes out the starboard side and the negative comes out the port side. This is to help the bank charge and discharge in a more balanced way. I may not be making sense here but it will all be explained in an upcoming video.
Oh ok awesome I just miss understood what you were saying last video
That coupler you have for the motor to the shaft is nice, but bear in mind that hard couplers liek that are for very precisely engineered systems. A system like a prop shaft, with some "angular play" will bend the shaft a bit as it turns. That will in turn wear your gearbox. Solution: flexible prop shaft coupler. Examples: propshopinc.com/drivesaver-flexible-shaft-coupling-c373/
Interesting! I haven't seen those before. The one we have comes with the motor.
yeah watch out with solid couplers. If they're included it's because it was an economic decision: it's the cheapest coupler available. Solid couplers transmit stress straight to your gearbox, which makes for wear. Flex couplers that give a few degrees of "flex" are standard for use on most power trains. Check out Untie the Lines where she is installing the flexible motor coupler. Also look at this wikipedia image of a drive shaft. Universal joints (flexible) at each end allow for misalignment. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drive_shaft#/media/File:Cardan_Shaft.jpg
Ah, Boatwork! Long Live Shaving Man!Lol. Covered Up in Work, lol. THAT'S your Motor?! But, but, it's so LITTLE....
So wittle
Hi guys. Curious how much the total electric conversion cost. Where's the install episode? For those of us who don't get discounts, so far I've counted 12 batteries at $1000 each, the electric motor is $6000, so that's $18,000 uninstalled? What other parts, controllers, converters, switches, electrical etc did you have to buy and install? How much are the other bits? Adding it all up, you're looking at what, $25,000 all-in for the electric motor conversion, paying retail, doing all my own work? If you own the boat for 4 years, that's $4,167 per year or about $521/mo. Is there an episode that's *only* the motor install? With total retail cost? All parts and install please? Can't find it. You'd get a ton of views on that and most of us in the market for an electric conversion would enjoy it. Thanks. Great work overall.
Yeah, I'd be really interested in this myself too.
Make sure that was a stainless wire brush or it will cause your chain plates to rust
or etch the chainplates with HF (hydrogenfluoride-acid)
Thanks for the advice guys! Luckily it was stainless.
Really really have to make sure you buy specific stainless steel brushes... they don’t come from any stores usually without ordering... impregnating mild steel into the stainless will start rust within weeks.
Stainless that has been "textured" with a wire brush, of any material, can still rust. You can sit at the table, watch Netflix, and polish those chain plates one at a time, or do it with a cloth pad on the dremel and stainless polish compound. All these comments are advice you'll kick yourself for not heeding three months after re-mounting them out in the weather. Scratched stainless DOES rust, and fairly quickly.
DANGER WILL ROBINSON! IF YOU USE HYDROFLOURIC ACID MAKE SURE YOU READ UP ON THE SAFETY CONCERNS. A SPILL ON THE SKIN THE SIZE OF YOUR PALM PENETRATES RAPIDLY AND CAN KILL YOU. MANY COMMON CHEMICAL GLOVES ARE POROUS TO HF ACID. Sorry about the shouting, but it's important info!
do yourself a favor and build high fiddles - gives you something to hold while underway
Good thought
Love from Pakistan
Thanks!
Looks great. You'll never care about that seam. It's barely visible when the counter is clean and empty and I'll tell you right now that it's going to be covered in crap half the time anyhow. You might want to consider bumping up the fiddle size to closer to 2" high over the countertop. 1" is barely enough. 1.5" is better. I see that you have quite a bit of real estate to hide below that with the countertop and the plywood plus the thickened epoxy that you had to put in there to get the darn countertop level. That's going to mean your fiddle board will need to be pretty tall. A 3" piece might do the trick. Be sure to put a routered edge on that fiddle so you get a nice tight fit with the fiddle up against the counter. If you just slap a flat piece on there you are guaranteed to get some spots where it will not be perfectly tight and crap is going to fall into the crack at that corner. Router that bad boy down 3/16" at least or rip it down on the inside using a tablesaw if you have a good one with a featherboard on it so it stays tight against the fence. If you have a good router that's the best bet but make sure to keep it level which can be hard on thin piece of board. You can also go ahead and put a bevel on the outside of the fiddle which will make it look less blocky. Most boatbuilders put that bevel on their fiddles. Something like a 15-degree angle so the fiddle it thinner on the top than at the bottom. Experiment with some scrap wood before trying it on expensive lumber. Play with it until you like the look and then make it out of the good stuff. Our boat is almost all mahogany inside with a few teak pieces here and there for contrast. Looks beauty.
Thanks Duckworth! Good advice. We did router the edge of the counter. We were thinking a 3" strip for the fiddle as well. Hopefully it turns out nice. We will probably play around with some router bits to see what we like for the top of the fiddle.
Learning the Lines I can't wait to see the finished product. The galley area is already taking shape nicely. That Ikea sink and the articulated faucet are sweet additions. Plus a level and even coutertop is a huge improvement on the original.
Thanks! ♡
I'm serious about the countertop being usually covered. With storage space being so limited the coutertop is going to end up being an unpacking zone whenever you are digging through the lockers and storage spaces, the tabletop and settees too.
When crammed-up packed and fully provisioned before heading across the Gulf Stream that's going to be the only free place to put anything other than the cabin sole when you are digging through lockers for anything.
Few are going to be the times when everything is put away perfectly and you will have bare counters unless you are organizational and put-away mavens. Our horizontal surfaces almost never are. We could have an flaming green and orange inlay of a clown in full size laid into the white formica countertop and you'd never be able to see it under all the stuff piled up on there usually. Most of the time we have to dig just to get at the icebox and open it up, as it is often covered with crap too.
#livingonaboat
Lol at the imagery. I'm hoping I can be better at putting things away but thinking back on my desk while teaching...you're probably right. Lol
Here is an uneducated suggestion about your prop shaft. I would talk to someone knowledgeable about whether butting the motor shaft to the prop shaft. With heat generated by the motor, there could be lengthening of the motor shaft, by a fraction of an inch, which could pose a problem for the prop shaft. It could cause the coupling to become loose. Just thinking out loud, but I think it's something that would be worth talking to a marine mechanic about.
Interesting thought. We'll double check the instructions to see if there needs to be a gap.