Best thing to do with the solenoid is to buy a ford solenoid and install on the firewall, wire up and that will cure the original from heat soaking off the headers....I did on my 454/7.4....doing it that way all you will have leading down to starter is the 12v cable which is easy to secure, no more worries about heat soaking solenoid and or the smaller 12v starter wire burning/grounding on headers....I dont know why chevy never implemented that on their vehicles.
Are you certain the flex plate is on correctly? There are small chamfered areas on the teeth of it that aren't there for looks. Wouldn't those be useful on the side that engages with the starter gear teeth?
Headers are ceramic coated so no heat wrap on those. Got the wires covered so have to wait and see if the starter is going to get too hot too start. Throttle linkage is ok, hard to see with the camera angle.
I took a header boot from one of the spark plugs wires and put it around the starter wires. As long as the starter itself doesn't overheat, it should be ok
Good looking starter dont know about meshing issues, i put some hi-temp gasket materal my work place donated you know what i mean, i put that around wires next to exhaust, well keep working and let us know.
Looks to me like you need to just put a bunch of heat wrap on the header and those wires so they don't melt. Also I think you should put some spacers to lift up your air cleaner because it looks like the throttle linkage hits it. You wouldn't want it to get caught and get stuck wide open lol
Nice Engine. I kno this vid is old but I'm having starter issue flywheel showing little nicks on the teeth like this one for starter hitting flywheel while running ? Starter is brand new high torque frm Summit Racing not small one like u have still stock size and weight but I don't kno what is causing it ? Should I add another shim? The starter shouldn't engage while I'm driving right ?
Some starters come with an alignment dowel that you stick in behind the flywheel toward the starter gear. If it lines up correctly, all's well. If you don't have one, maybe the local parts house can help. Be careful not to use too many shims. I think my flywheel was warped, either when I got it or putting it on, which was causing my issue. Replaced the flywheel and haven't had a bit of problem since and I'm not using shims on an original GM starter. Hope this helps, good luck!
I think the flex plate was defective or installed wrong. I also didn't have the brace on the original starter. When I replaced the flexplate and installed the brace, it worked fine.
Same problem here- anyone figure this out? On my 4th starter first was original 2and3 were chises mini 153/168 , 4th 92 Camaro mini, --- did eagle get a bad batch of flywheels? Next is expensive mini or switch to 153 flywheel - HELP!!!!
I haven't had any issues since I went back to a stock starter and put the factory brace on it. The only thing I can think of was it was flexing the starter bolts trying to crank since it does have high compression. With the brace, it doesn't flex anymore. Hope this helps.
almost sounds like he isnt using a choke. i live in montana...it gets to -40f in the winters, and my 1977 chevy silverado, that ive rigged up an electric choke to be pull cable, has fired EVERY time....and only dies if you get greedy with the choke and kick it off too soon. getting to high school in winter was fun....trying to start 4 different outfits before just saying fuck it and taking the 8MPG hit to the wallet my 77 likes to give....400 small block with full time 4. always starts, always works, never gets stuck......but 8 MPG HIGHWAY! swapping in a sm465 standard trans and a np205 part time here as soon as the shop gets cleaned...so...a while from now
These electric chokes are tempermental and I think this one needs adjusting. I had rigged a pull choke on my Mazda B2200 and it never failed to fire off either, so that may be the way to go!
+farmboy30117 once I did that on my 77....you just start hating any style of auto choke. I 100% would prefer manual choke on everything "old" i own...it just works. no need to adjust for summer or winter. just walk out the door...take note of the temp....realize it's a chevy so it's going.to want choke even when it's 90f....and set the choke. ps. when you convert an auto like I did ....(remove the electrics, drill a hole in the linkage, make a bracket and.bolt it to the intake....you end up pushing in the choke, and pulling to un-choke..this is.on a q jet)... just make sure you step on the gas a bit, then push the choke in. otherwise it will bend shit....ask me how I know lol
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Its a really nice starter. So far it hasn't given any issues.
Best thing to do with the solenoid is to buy a ford solenoid and install on the firewall, wire up and that will cure the original from heat soaking off the headers....I did on my 454/7.4....doing it that way all you will have leading down to starter is the 12v cable which is easy to secure, no more worries about heat soaking solenoid and or the smaller 12v starter wire burning/grounding on headers....I dont know why chevy never implemented that on their vehicles.
I have the same valve covers and breather cover on my truck. Motor looks good sir.
Thanks!
Heck of a deal but those starters are tough!
Are you certain the flex plate is on correctly? There are small chamfered areas on the teeth of it that aren't there for looks. Wouldn't those be useful on the side that engages with the starter gear teeth?
Headers are ceramic coated so no heat wrap on those. Got the wires covered so have to wait and see if the starter is going to get too hot too start. Throttle linkage is ok, hard to see with the camera angle.
I took a header boot from one of the spark plugs wires and put it around the starter wires. As long as the starter itself doesn't overheat, it should be ok
starter sounds pretty good, u might have a vacuum leak or idle set to low. and the throttle arm hits the underside of the air cleaner housing.
Lennie Phister my. Starter bolts get. Loose after I. crank. state a couple of times state. works. great at. first. then. while cranked loosen bolts
I know I'm late making this comment but the fly wheel doesnt look backwards,,, it just looks like it needs to be replaced!
Good looking starter dont know about meshing issues, i put some hi-temp gasket materal my work place donated you know what i mean, i put that around wires next to exhaust, well keep working and let us know.
Looks to me like you need to just put a bunch of heat wrap on the header and those wires so they don't melt. Also I think you should put some spacers to lift up your air cleaner because it looks like the throttle linkage hits it. You wouldn't want it to get caught and get stuck wide open lol
Lol that happened to me my throtle got stuck open and I bout crapped my shorts
Thanks buddy. Should have some more videos up soon.
Thanks!
You only want 1/2 to 3/4 ingagement between the starter hear and your ring gear
It's 1/2 to 2/3rds actually
Nice Engine. I kno this vid is old but I'm having starter issue flywheel showing little nicks on the teeth like this one for starter hitting flywheel while running ? Starter is brand new high torque frm Summit Racing not small one like u have still stock size and weight but I don't kno what is causing it ? Should I add another shim? The starter shouldn't engage while I'm driving right ?
Some starters come with an alignment dowel that you stick in behind the flywheel toward the starter gear. If it lines up correctly, all's well. If you don't have one, maybe the local parts house can help. Be careful not to use too many shims. I think my flywheel was warped, either when I got it or putting it on, which was causing my issue. Replaced the flywheel and haven't had a bit of problem since and I'm not using shims on an original GM starter. Hope this helps, good luck!
Needed timing advance. Hook it up to the full time vacuum port instead of part time
was the original engaging a split second, then retracting back? that's the problem im having right now
I think the flex plate was defective or installed wrong. I also didn't have the brace on the original starter. When I replaced the flexplate and installed the brace, it worked fine.
Its an RV cam with 1.6 roller rockers. I wanted a torquey cam.
Cranks Fast I agree timing is late.
so far so good
That’s what you want. Never want it all touching.
Tuff Stuff says2/3 to 3/4 of engagement,so you agood ta go.
high torque starter are 3 hp if you got a worn out flexplate the new starter with tare it up
do you have a 153 or 168 tooth flywheel stagerd bolt patern is 153 inline bolt holes are168 tooth flexplate
I believe it is a 168 tooth
U got rid of the mini starter wat it did
how big is your cam lift
Same problem here- anyone figure this out? On my 4th starter first was original 2and3 were chises mini 153/168 , 4th 92 Camaro mini, --- did eagle get a bad batch of flywheels? Next is expensive mini or switch to 153 flywheel - HELP!!!!
I haven't had any issues since I went back to a stock starter and put the factory brace on it. The only thing I can think of was it was flexing the starter bolts trying to crank since it does have high compression. With the brace, it doesn't flex anymore. Hope this helps.
@@farmboy30117 will try - just can't handle disappointment -might kick the car in the corner another 5 years
1970 blocks use a different starter than say a 75@@speedantiquities3641
reset the choke.... engine sounds pretty good tho.
Is that a Chinese Ebay starter? Looks like the stater is a manual trans unit and you possibly need an auto trans starter. ??
+jim davidson No, it wasn't a cheap eBay starter. The issue was a warped eBay flywheel :/
LOL That'll do it. Glad you found it.
If you wanted you could of put bolts at the end where the block and the starter where it would of simplify your issue
it looks like the flywheel is backwards
That's kinda what i thought
It does look like it is backwards to me too
That's normal
thats normal
carburator dirty
Probably ;)
CHEVY GOD
I broke the outer starter bolt hole on the engine block of my 97 chy pick up how might I fix this problem
add another shim
That flywheel IS BAD. NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. NO STARTER WILL WORK WELL.
I did replace the flywheel and went back to a factory starter with the rear starter brace. No more issues.
When you take a video you should at least show what your you doing!
I agree, thanks for the input
Sounds like you have more than a starter issue. No wonder Chevys go through so many starters. You have to crank them 28 times till they run. LOL
+jim davidson That's only on the old Chevys ;)
almost sounds like he isnt using a choke.
i live in montana...it gets to -40f in the winters, and my 1977 chevy silverado, that ive rigged up an electric choke to be pull cable, has fired EVERY time....and only dies if you get greedy with the choke and kick it off too soon.
getting to high school in winter was fun....trying to start 4 different outfits before just saying fuck it and taking the 8MPG hit to the wallet my 77 likes to give....400 small block with full time 4.
always starts, always works, never gets stuck......but 8 MPG HIGHWAY!
swapping in a sm465 standard trans and a np205 part time here as soon as the shop gets cleaned...so...a while from now
These electric chokes are tempermental and I think this one needs adjusting. I had rigged a pull choke on my Mazda B2200 and it never failed to fire off either, so that may be the way to go!
+farmboy30117 once I did that on my 77....you just start hating any style of auto choke.
I 100% would prefer manual choke on everything "old" i own...it just works.
no need to adjust for summer or winter.
just walk out the door...take note of the temp....realize it's a chevy so it's going.to want choke even when it's 90f....and set the choke.
ps. when you convert an auto like I did ....(remove the electrics, drill a hole in the linkage, make a bracket and.bolt it to the intake....you end up pushing in the choke, and pulling to un-choke..this is.on a q jet)...
just make sure you step on the gas a bit, then push the choke in.
otherwise it will bend shit....ask me how I know lol
LOL, thanks for the tip!