Thanks Shane, did mine yesterday following this, just a tip for others, take out the air filter box, makes getting the battery tray out a whole lot easier.
Thanks Shane, great video and perfect timing as I’ve ordered my replacement booster and will be fitting it soon. I don’t want too many more scary brake fade events! I found sucking the oil out of the master cylinder with a brake bleeder vac unit has helped eliminate these events in the interim. I like the extra detail you go into like the movement of the servo unit, clevis pin clip arrangement etc. This really helps. I will be looking forward to the reinstall and the future catch can (great idea BTW). I’ve also ordered a new master cylinder and vac pump however I’m planning to remove the gearbox for overhaul soon so could be more accessible to replace vac pump then. Keep up the great work, you deserve many more subscribers so please keep the content coming.
Thanks for you detailed comment. That brake lever pin/ Clevis pin you can’t really see clearly due to the guard around the clip, which is why I done the footage of it when out of the car. I suspect there would be good access to the vac pump with the gearbox out. I think if I had to change mine then I would simply find an electric vac pump to do the job. VE commodore pumps are cheap
Thanks a mill for the video. I will try to perform the job in the next few days. Would you be able to motion the parts that you replaced. So we can get them.
I did not realise I had forgotten to add the part numbers into the description - just added them in so if you need to part numbers you can find it there.
Hi Shane, I have a similar issue over here in NZ, the dealer said recall was done so tough luck, but also nobody seems to sell these valves, my booster has oil in it, seems to be coming from the lower left valve, the upper smaller valve was dry, do you happen to know what each valve does and why both of them feed into one line, Id like to replace the lower larger opening valve but can’t find a replacement option unfortunately
Hi Shane, We have already had the brake booster replaced once, about 4 years ago, and we are feeling poor brake performance again. I checked the quick release fitting as you did in the video before this one and confirmed some oil on it. I don't want to just replace the booster again as it will obviously get oil through as some point, so I was wondering if you could offer any suggestions as to the catch can or electric pump solutions. I note you have referred to a VE pump in another comment, have you investigated that enough to advise on installation? Also, I have seen mentioned on the AULRO forums that some have swapped out the booster for an RRS version which gives better braking performance, have you any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance, Michael
I do need to get my arse into gear and look a bit more into the catch can setup and install. Really that will most likely be finding something that fits into the available space ok. An electric vacuum pump would be something I'd look into in the event of failure of the original unit as it looks to be a right pain to access with body on.
Oh and I haven't really looked into the RRS option for boosters. If anything all it will offer is a higher assistance ratio so the pads will see more pressure with the same foot pedal effort
@@Shanes_Shed Hey Mate, just seeing your other video today reminded me about this. After trying the aftermarket vacuum pump I mentioned in that forum thread, it failed after a few months and they gave me my money back for it. I realised after watching a video from the US, the V8 petrols have a vacuum pump fitted so there is already a purpose designed system. I grabbed the pump, stand and hoses from Triumph Rover spares and it all fits perfectly.
Imagine if it was possible to disconnect the van line, run a small diameter tube through it and suck the oil out... I'll have to have a chat with the cardiac consultant at the hospital!
Nothing stopping you from doing it, but when I stripped the booster down there was not much oil in it. Just the presence of oil may not be the issue, it could be the damage that the oil has caused internally to the booster seals/rubbers. Brakes are one thing I don't dick around with trying to find cheap solutions
@@Shanes_Shed Thanks for info. I know mine has been replaced before, couple of years ago before I owned it, and I had visions of oil pooling in it! As you say, may well be failing seals caused by small amount of oil. Looks like a fun job to do. I don't suppose you've done the other 2 intercooler pipes have you? I'm hoping there's a quicker way in than shown in another video where it takes a million hours or so!
@@Shanes_Shed I've had a thought.... I don't think oil is getting along the vacuum line. As you point out, that doesn't seem likely. BUT, I wonder if failing seals in the master cylinder could be to blame. The vacuum would draw brake fluid into the servo, and perhaps the fluid isn't compatible with the diaphragm.
@@Shanes_Shed ok. Just checked the TDI forums as I saw this mentioned on there years ago. The most logical explanation is poorly performing check valve between the vacuum pump and the booster. The vacuum pump is oil lubricated, and if the check valve doesn't fully shut off then the vacuum in the booster will suck oil through when the vacuum pump isn't operating. That small amount of oil in the booster probably isn't the cause of poor braking, but the failure of the check valve is. Is the valve easy to get to with booster in place?
Thanks Shane, did mine yesterday following this, just a tip for others, take out the air filter box, makes getting the battery tray out a whole lot easier.
Thanks for sharing your tip!
@@Shanes_Shed 👍
Thanks Shane, great video and perfect timing as I’ve ordered my replacement booster and will be fitting it soon. I don’t want too many more scary brake fade events! I found sucking the oil out of the master cylinder with a brake bleeder vac unit has helped eliminate these events in the interim.
I like the extra detail you go into like the movement of the servo unit, clevis pin clip arrangement etc. This really helps. I will be looking forward to the reinstall and the future catch can (great idea BTW). I’ve also ordered a new master cylinder and vac pump however I’m planning to remove the gearbox for overhaul soon so could be more accessible to replace vac pump then.
Keep up the great work, you deserve many more subscribers so please keep the content coming.
Correction, sucking oil out of the booster not master cylinder - doh!
Thanks for you detailed comment. That brake lever pin/ Clevis pin you can’t really see clearly due to the guard around the clip, which is why I done the footage of it when out of the car.
I suspect there would be good access to the vac pump with the gearbox out. I think if I had to change mine then I would simply find an electric vac pump to do the job. VE commodore pumps are cheap
Oh and the sub count is slowly creeping upwards
Thanks a mill for the video. I will try to perform the job in the next few days. Would you be able to motion the parts that you replaced. So we can get them.
I did not realise I had forgotten to add the part numbers into the description - just added them in so if you need to part numbers you can find it there.
@@Shanes_Shed Brother you are legend, one of my favor LR lovers teachers so far. 🙌🙌🙌🙌
Hi Shane, I have a similar issue over here in NZ, the dealer said recall was done so tough luck, but also nobody seems to sell these valves, my booster has oil in it, seems to be coming from the lower left valve, the upper smaller valve was dry, do you happen to know what each valve does and why both of them feed into one line, Id like to replace the lower larger opening valve but can’t find a replacement option unfortunately
I’m not 100% sure but I would assume that they would only be non return valves or maybe a vacuum relief - I can’t think of any other function for them
Hi Shane,
We have already had the brake booster replaced once, about 4 years ago, and we are feeling poor brake performance again. I checked the quick release fitting as you did in the video before this one and confirmed some oil on it.
I don't want to just replace the booster again as it will obviously get oil through as some point, so I was wondering if you could offer any suggestions as to the catch can or electric pump solutions. I note you have referred to a VE pump in another comment, have you investigated that enough to advise on installation?
Also, I have seen mentioned on the AULRO forums that some have swapped out the booster for an RRS version which gives better braking performance, have you any thoughts on this?
Thanks in advance,
Michael
I do need to get my arse into gear and look a bit more into the catch can setup and install. Really that will most likely be finding something that fits into the available space ok. An electric vacuum pump would be something I'd look into in the event of failure of the original unit as it looks to be a right pain to access with body on.
Oh and I haven't really looked into the RRS option for boosters. If anything all it will offer is a higher assistance ratio so the pads will see more pressure with the same foot pedal effort
@@Shanes_Shed Hey Mate, just seeing your other video today reminded me about this. After trying the aftermarket vacuum pump I mentioned in that forum thread, it failed after a few months and they gave me my money back for it. I realised after watching a video from the US, the V8 petrols have a vacuum pump fitted so there is already a purpose designed system. I grabbed the pump, stand and hoses from Triumph Rover spares and it all fits perfectly.
Ah good stuff
Imagine if it was possible to disconnect the van line, run a small diameter tube through it and suck the oil out... I'll have to have a chat with the cardiac consultant at the hospital!
Nothing stopping you from doing it, but when I stripped the booster down there was not much oil in it. Just the presence of oil may not be the issue, it could be the damage that the oil has caused internally to the booster seals/rubbers. Brakes are one thing I don't dick around with trying to find cheap solutions
@@Shanes_Shed Thanks for info. I know mine has been replaced before, couple of years ago before I owned it, and I had visions of oil pooling in it! As you say, may well be failing seals caused by small amount of oil.
Looks like a fun job to do.
I don't suppose you've done the other 2 intercooler pipes have you? I'm hoping there's a quicker way in than shown in another video where it takes a million hours or so!
@@Shanes_Shed I've had a thought.... I don't think oil is getting along the vacuum line. As you point out, that doesn't seem likely. BUT, I wonder if failing seals in the master cylinder could be to blame. The vacuum would draw brake fluid into the servo, and perhaps the fluid isn't compatible with the diaphragm.
Have you seen my booster strip down video? th-cam.com/video/FnIfhOaqhy4/w-d-xo.html defiantly doesn't look like brake fluid
@@Shanes_Shed ok. Just checked the TDI forums as I saw this mentioned on there years ago. The most logical explanation is poorly performing check valve between the vacuum pump and the booster. The vacuum pump is oil lubricated, and if the check valve doesn't fully shut off then the vacuum in the booster will suck oil through when the vacuum pump isn't operating.
That small amount of oil in the booster probably isn't the cause of poor braking, but the failure of the check valve is.
Is the valve easy to get to with booster in place?