EBC Red Stuff Ceramic Pads squeal like crazy for the first 500-1000 miles during low speed braking. No break-in required. There is a thin coating to help seat the pads to the disk. They still squeal slightly when the pads get hot (after a long 25-50 mile drive). My Tech didn't put grease on the back of the ceramic pads to minimize squealing. Ceramic pads last longer, since dusting/wear over time is minimal. Less wear on the brake disks too.
So far, I have not encountered any squeaking. Maybe once right off the bat, but it was very very quiet and I know that the coating needs to wear off first. I'm excited to have these just for minimal brake dust alone!
Excellent EBC Red Stuff Ceramic Brake Pad G8X M3/M4 DIY. I had EBC Red Stuff Ceramic Pads installed on my BMW F30 335i M-Sport. But it is important to differentiate Ceramic Brake Pads from Carbon Ceramic Brakes. Ceramic Pads are for low dust and match or exceed stock BMW OEM metallic pad braking performance. BUT Ceramic Pads are not for Track/Race applications. Carbon Ceramic Brakes are Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Disks and special matching brake pads that have track/race applications. You see them as an expensive option on BMW ///M cars with Gold Calipers. A full brake job could cost $6k-8k.
Yep, good call for those who read comments! I did sort of touch on the fact that EBC has different pad options and that Redstuff is better for daily driven cars. But either way, carbon ceramic pads are a great option for those who aren't wanting to dish out upwards of $10K for carbon ceramic brakes.
Recommend doing the Stainless Steel Brake Line upgrade at the same time. Castrol makes excellent Racing Brake Fluid. These brake lines are covered in stainless steel braid to prevent damage on the track/steel. The brake line itself is actually made of teflon.
Great content, thank you! Confident I can do the front and rear…the only problem right now is finding a set of front Redstuff pads. All sites have them on back order. 😔 Question - any sensors triggered after install that required any system resets? I have approx 3.5K miles on my G80, so plenty of pad life on stock pads.
Hope the videos help with your install! Check Kies Motorsports - sometimes it may say "out of stock" online but if you call them, they usually have some sets on hand. And no, no need to reset any sensors - if you happen to break the brake wear sensor, you'll need to order a new one and swap it in, otherwise you'll get a light on the dash.
Hello, The computer shows that I need to replace the rear brake pads in about 3000 km. I have a question, did you connect the cable with the sensor to the red pads, like it is in the original pads, didn't you show it in the video? Best regards.
Is this similar to other cars with e-brakes? As in, don’t engage the parking brake before removing the brake motor? Or did you engage the e brake and then remove the motor?
Nice video...just curious to know why you applied grease to the back side of the brake pads...did the OEM pads have grease on them? what purpose does the grease provide on the back side? thanks.
Grease helps minimize any metal on metal noises. Unfortunately, applying grease to the stock pads does not have any affect. The noise and dust comes from the compound that the pads are made of.
If you follow my instructions in the video, there is nothing else to do. The ebrake engaged and disengaged with no problems at all after the install was complete.
Once the calipers are installed, press the brake pedal a few times until firm, this pushes the pistons back out until the pads contact the disc in the normal way. Then they should retract a little, as is normal with the action of the square cut seal, when you let go of the pedal. Then, engage the parking brake as normal. It will stop itself as normal, once it meets resistance. HTH
EBC Red Stuff Ceramic Pads squeal like crazy for the first 500-1000 miles during low speed braking. No break-in required. There is a thin coating to help seat the pads to the disk. They still squeal slightly when the pads get hot (after a long 25-50 mile drive). My Tech didn't put grease on the back of the ceramic pads to minimize squealing. Ceramic pads last longer, since dusting/wear over time is minimal. Less wear on the brake disks too.
So far, I have not encountered any squeaking. Maybe once right off the bat, but it was very very quiet and I know that the coating needs to wear off first. I'm excited to have these just for minimal brake dust alone!
Excellent EBC Red Stuff Ceramic Brake Pad G8X M3/M4 DIY. I had EBC Red Stuff Ceramic Pads installed on my BMW F30 335i M-Sport. But it is important to differentiate Ceramic Brake Pads from Carbon Ceramic Brakes. Ceramic Pads are for low dust and match or exceed stock BMW OEM metallic pad braking performance. BUT Ceramic Pads are not for Track/Race applications. Carbon Ceramic Brakes are Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Disks and special matching brake pads that have track/race applications. You see them as an expensive option on BMW ///M cars with Gold Calipers. A full brake job could cost $6k-8k.
Yep, good call for those who read comments! I did sort of touch on the fact that EBC has different pad options and that Redstuff is better for daily driven cars. But either way, carbon ceramic pads are a great option for those who aren't wanting to dish out upwards of $10K for carbon ceramic brakes.
Recommend doing the Stainless Steel Brake Line upgrade at the same time. Castrol makes excellent Racing Brake Fluid. These brake lines are covered in stainless steel braid to prevent damage on the track/steel. The brake line itself is actually made of teflon.
True - great time to upgrade lines!
Great content, thank you! Confident I can do the front and rear…the only problem right now is finding a set of front Redstuff pads. All sites have them on back order. 😔
Question - any sensors triggered after install that required any system resets? I have approx 3.5K miles on my G80, so plenty of pad life on stock pads.
Hope the videos help with your install! Check Kies Motorsports - sometimes it may say "out of stock" online but if you call them, they usually have some sets on hand. And no, no need to reset any sensors - if you happen to break the brake wear sensor, you'll need to order a new one and swap it in, otherwise you'll get a light on the dash.
Hello,
The computer shows that I need to replace the rear brake pads in about 3000 km.
I have a question, did you connect the cable with the sensor to the red pads, like it is in the original pads, didn't you show it in the video?
Best regards.
Yes, I did connect the sensor to the EBC pads. It fits just like the OEM pads.
Is this similar to other cars with e-brakes? As in, don’t engage the parking brake before removing the brake motor? Or did you engage the e brake and then remove the motor?
The eBrake was engaged and the motor was then removed.
Nice video...just curious to know why you applied grease to the back side of the brake pads...did the OEM pads have grease on them? what purpose does the grease provide on the back side? thanks.
Grease helps minimize any metal on metal noises. Unfortunately, applying grease to the stock pads does not have any affect. The noise and dust comes from the compound that the pads are made of.
Does BMW make an oem low dust pad for the g80 m4?
No, BMW does not. You'll need an aftermarket pad, like EBC.
Did you jack the car up with a normal jack without any adapters?
I use a hockey puck under the jack pads most of the time.
How did the re-engaging of the ebrake go? Did you had to pull on the parking brake for a bit to get the piston out all the way?
If you follow my instructions in the video, there is nothing else to do. The ebrake engaged and disengaged with no problems at all after the install was complete.
@@accelerated_motion thanks for the feedback. Been doing my research on the rear pad replacement
@@mdnajibulhossain5827 You bet! Best of luck. Its a bit more time consuming than front pads but if you follow my instructions, you'll be fine!
Once the calipers are installed, press the brake pedal a few times until firm, this pushes the pistons back out until the pads contact the disc in the normal way.
Then they should retract a little, as is normal with the action of the square cut seal, when you let go of the pedal.
Then, engage the parking brake as normal.
It will stop itself as normal, once it meets resistance. HTH
@@accelerated_motion Shops here in FW pull the battery power to avoid any codes on the rears. It is covered @g80bimmerpost as well .........