EG4-LifePower4 Battery... signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-48v-100ah/?ref=lithiumsolar (affiliate links) GFB Cell Modules... signaturesolar.com/eg4-8-cell-pack-lithium-cells-25-6v-100ah/?ref=lithiumsolar Let me know what you think of these batteries, if you have any experience with them, and/or if there's anything you want to see me built with one!
Use this battery to charge an EcoFlow Delta Pro via the DC solar input! MC4 to XT60 adapter comes with the EcoFloe Delta Pro. Do it using normal 15 amp input of the EcoFlow Delta Pro and then do it again with boost converter at roughly 90amps. This is what I want to do an EG4 Life power.
Wow! I am very impressed with this review. Very detailed and you covered all important bits and then some. And then there was no lame intro video. You jumped straight to the goods. This is how all TH-cam reviews should be done.
Got eight of these and am very pleased. Have just worked as advertised since install. They pair with a 12000 watt Growatt inverter. Buy as many as you can first go around as the shipping seems to be the same for two or 4. Got all my equipment, well solar panels, batteries, inverter and metal roof mounts from Signature Solar. Fast shipping and well packaged.
I must point out that @ 1:19 the MCB shown is not suitable to extinguish high DC current loads as that's an AC (Alternating current 100Amp 230V 50hz MCB) not a D.C. (direct current one) nor it does have a DC logo on it. Hence its optimum overcurrent protection functionality will be affected overtime or worse arcs could arise 'when tripped' as DC is more difficult to disrupt compared to AC.
Well that’s strange as it doesn’t say so on its printed logo. I’ll give you half right reasoning as the lower voltage being used (from its original rating) can some what compensate for the arcing features D.C has.
@@EF-Electrics It's not printed on the circuit breaker but it's in the datasheet. It's the same as the Nader breakers we're using - stamped for AC but datasheet lists them for low voltage DC as well.
Very nice informative video. Your voice makes it very easy to understand everything your saying. Thanks for being a TH-cam creator for us solar and battery enthusiast along with DIY folks.
This is probably the best teardown video of a Signature Solar EG4 of all that I have seen. I have seven of the older, and I think better-looking versions where that the breaker is in the middle of the faceplate. I also have one of the 400 amp 12 volt versions for my RV. I am sold on this being a well-designed and well-executed rackmount battery and very happy that James has been able to keep the price down; even though he pays an arm and a leg to bring them into the country for us to DIY solar!
I work for a solar company in Oklahoma, we just recently started installing these batteries instead of Simpliphi. The price for the quality is absolutely incredible on these. And the fact that You can fit 31kWh in a 2’ x 2’ x 4’ cabinet!
I have a Sol-Ark 12K and unfortunately bought a SimpliPhi 3.8/48V bat at the same time. I opened up the SimpliPhi and it is JUNK compared to my three 48V LifePower bats. Expensive lesson learned.
@@TBooneFisher6931 Wow I'm surprised to hear that. I have never looked at one myself; however, I've heard they're one of the top choices for residential installs. What was wrong with it?
I live 4 hours from their shop, I had a issue and they fixed me up(inverter issue)...to save on shipping I bought another of this battery so now I have 2 of them. I have zero issues with mine, I rather like them. They simply work and I have my inverter set to take them down to 10%. It was really interesting getting to see their warehouse, So many things getting loaded and unloaded.
Yeah, I only had to drive 90 miles pick all my stuff up... I bought panels and inverter and a EG4 batteries and they are great people to work with! Each time being in their storefront warehouse was a treat and I enjoyed watching them working together; they can be quite busy. Good people to deal with from my experiences!
Great review! Thanks for that. But the low temperature test needs to be done with a cold S.P.A.T. 🍺 Interesting to see they are not compressing these cells and give them actually room to breath. This is the future of building batteries. A bit more expensive than single cells but... what a time-safer! I will have a 15kWh version on my channel soon 🤫
I've been running three of these for the last month or so off grid, very good battery. The channel selection switch is upside down, I've shown how to set up the channels elsewhere on YT, if anyone needs the info reply to this post and I'll past the directions here.
One thing I really like about this battery is you can just use a regular ethernet cable to connect to a growatt inverter. You can then program the inverter to function by battery percentage vs voltage.
Any thoughts / input / experience with having two battery storage systems? I have a professionally installed 9.2kw solar array + (1x) Powerwall2 battery. Our utility is making changes, and it's clearly now in my best interest to add more battery capacity. I'm not yet sure how to integrate and isolate a second battery storage solution. I'll also install more/new panels, that I can wire directly to the second system; two independent arrays.
One of my gripes is the front panel DC connections. Looks like there is space to modify for rear panel connections - but it would be better if modification was not required. Something like an Anderson Power Products 150amp connector in the back. I wonder how many I'd have to order to get that changed...
Why would you want rear connections? You would no longer be able to put the rack up against the wall and would need to leave adequate space for a person to fit behind it to install/service.
@@LithiumSolar You presume I'd be trying to pull it up against a wall or wouldn't already want space around the rack (or that it's the only rack I have)... and to be fair, all of the youtube installations of these modules I've seen are small-time residential DIY-"hacking"-jobs (so perhaps your questions is from an out of sight, out of mind frame of mind). This'll be a bit long winded. In a typical commercial rack installation, one leaves space behind the rack to be able to access the rear mounting for the larger devices, cabling, power, and passthrough ventillation (hot-aisle/cold-aisle achitecture). High power or voltage (say 4x of these in series for a standard 192VDC bus used by commercial 3-phase inverters/UPSes) isn't the kind of thing you want your datacenter techs brushing up against. So keeping the power away from status and general service interfaces is how its done in the industry. Things people shouldn't touch are kept behind either key-locked panels or tools-required-to-enter panels (with warnings plastered all over them). Opening these panels is a presumed statement of "I know what I'm doing, and I've been warned of the consequences of not knowing". Like I mentioned in the original post an Anderson type plug which is touch safe, meaning one can't get fingers into the contacts when the connector is unplugged, or the conector when mated is fully enclosed - is better IMO than screw terminals behind a chinsy plastic cover (which by the way one could still get fingers past, or drop a screw into especially since multiple stacked units would have their screws vertially aligned). But it also would allow one to slide a battery module into a rack shelf and blind-mate to a rack-afixed conector which completes the DC bus for replacement/service without getting hands on power connections (pull some front thumb-screws and disconnect the RS-485 cables and pull the handles out to remove). Now imagine having a few units in parallel, and having to take one out of service while the rest of the system was still online - that means sure, you can turn off the screw terminals for that unit, but the cable ataching to a busbar is still live through the bus bar end, so when you pull it off the screw terminal now you have a live exposed cable end in your hand (and you would have to us insulated tools, which I'd argue most people don't know to have). They way these are designed now is more conducive to turning off the whole system to do any work on it - what if the customer is on a respirator or some other critical thing like the raptor fence is running off the output? Even Nedry knew not to mess with the raptors... If one were to try to charge something like a 4S2P array (192V@200Ah) from a commerically available DC power supply (Magna-Power TSD250-120/208, 6u Rack mount 30kW programmable AC/DC converter) - and say 10x 2kW Eaton 3-phase 280Y/120V inverters, you're already going to have back access needs for the other devices. And they have front panel controls which need to be accessed, so to meet NFPA life safety codes having these cables on the front is problematic (or may require an additional, separate rack so the front connections can be protected behind a locked door). Rather than having the inverters on a wall with cables running everywhere - one could package this into a single standard 42U rack and turn it sideways so that the "front" and "rear" could still be accessed while it's flat against the wall. Having worked in both high end home theater for custom residential construction (the kind you'd see in magazines) and commerical facility design (480V 1200Amp, 600V 800Amp >>per floor
Dyness batteries are becoming so much available but not sure if they use Prismatic cells. Please open up a dyness BX51100 battery. Would love to see which cells are being used
Great battery ,i have had no problems except that it takes two people to move because of the weight but i knew that going in so have fun trying to get it in a server rack by yourself
To be critical, it is nice-ish, but could be better. My biggest fear is that none of the BMS wires are fused, so while the harness is nice, if some short occurs on the BMS PCB or connector, or any of the wires anywhere, that harness will smoke fast. It's mindblowing how many of the battery packs miss this! Another nuance is that any thin wire which goes near any large terminal, screw, heatsink, etc, should be in some protective tubing and possibly fastened to prevent movement or contact with anything. For example the long, loose grey wire that goes to the BMS from the breaker. Remember, it doesn't matter if the large wires are fused, if an 1mm2 or so wire starts to burn. It will not draw enough current to trip the breaker, but potentially can cause fire. Another observation, which is not a safety issue but might or might not be a convenience issue: the arrangement of the front panel. When you connect something to the screw terminals, it will protrude into the next rack unit. You can't wire it downwards either, because the breaker is directly under the terminal. In case you want to stack a series of these, you can't use a busbar either. It would be nicer to position the terminals horizontally in the centerline and shift the breaker out of the way. Or possibly place both terminals on the left side diagonally, that way it could be wired either veritcally or horizontally as seem fit.
I reviewed this before it was listed, therefore mine does not have a UL label anywhere. I can't say whether or not they have a label currently. If you're looking to buy one and need the label for inspection or other purposes, I would check with Signature Solar before you purchase.
Wonder why no one does test and reviews on the 12v of this battery. I just installed a 12v in my 5th wheel with a Victron system. Hope to get out next month to a campground to run some test on it. No issues running the A/C (1 a/c not both). But I am still looking for things like how it can communicate with Victron as they were supposed to partner up. anyway good info on this unit.
I'm building a 48v 120ah pack and based on the data provided by manufacturer, these cells have a stndard charge current of 24A, fast charge current 120A, and Max Charge current is 180A. What's your suggestion, use the standard or can I use something higher to make it faster?
If the bms shuts off at 47v, shouldn't it automatically turn back on once you apply a charge on it? Mine turns off and then i have manually switch the breaker off and on again to get it working.
Well done video gratz 4 that, but I have a question. Did you get the Lifepower4 battery and MPP Solar LV6548 successful communication? What did you do? Thank you in advance.
this battery is just like the one that David Poz reviewed a while back from Signature solar ? just this one that you are reviewing in your video looks much better build than the previous version, and your video has more details explained, and I think the price and longevity still very good . I don't know about the shipping cost? but nice video !
Yes, it's similar to the batteries David has. It looks like his are an older version of the EG4-LL model. This is the EG4-LifePower4 model. Shipping will vary depending on location. For me, it looks to be in the $300 range for 1-5 batteries.
@@LithiumSolar 300 dollars is a little too high if you buy one or two ? it used to be free shipping when David made his video ? anyway thanks for the reply !
@@LithiumSolar good day, 12v 100ah.. for how many hours will this battery system last with the following load: 800w? 600w? 500w? 400w? 200w? 100w? 32w? hours or minutes please
I'm thinking about adding a battery to my grid tie 10kw Growatt to capture the clipped energy (13kw panel array) for later, but the inverter is in an unheated barn. It's common for temps to get below 32F in the winter. Let's say the barn gets cold and so the battery gets to 32F, does it just isolate itself from charging? I guess what I'm really asking is it "ok" to have a plan where the battery just doesn't work when it's too cold but then it automatically brings itself back online when it gets above 32F? I really think the main time the battery would see use is in the summer so I'm not all that worried about not getting use in the winter, but I'm concerned the cold on-off-on-off-on cycles would be harmful to the battery.
@@LithiumSolar I'm curious as to how well the balancer would keep up with .5c charge / discharge. Trying to decide between these and a DIY with a JK BMS. Screen capture of cell voltages during charge / discharge would be nice to see. thanks
I have tried to find there cell packs but the link etc. does not show them. I'll contact them in the AM. I did order the 12V version of this unit... Hope to use it with my soon to install Victron MultiPlus II 12V 3000VA (I think it is) ... and Cerbo GX and some solar .. I hope this unit will communicate etc. with the rest but maybe it doesn't... hard to find documentation on such configuration.
If this had been around at this price 4 years ago I would have snatched it up in a heartbeat. But by the time I have to replace the battery I built? I am betting these will be a quarter of their present cost.
I don't have any problem lifting it myself, but yeah it is heavy. I use a hand truck to move it around from place to place then lift off of the hand truck on to the bench. Guess it depends on the person and never hurts to ask a friend for help regardless so as not to hurt your back :)
We connect 3x for your Battery-pack (48V, 50Ah) in serial DC ( 144v , 50Ah) , and RS485 communication Cables . Then we connect the DC output to the Growatt Hybrid inverter SPH5000TL3 DC, and via CAN with an CAN-Cable also to the CAN - Plug of the Inverter.
BUT Growatt Inverter can not communicate with YOUR Battery-Packs!??
So, we need urgend , for YOUR application we use, technical support / connection plan scetch from your tecnical depatment. Also we must konw , how to set the dip-switches for each battery-pack (Master and slave settings for each Pack) ? Aslo we need to know , if we need special CAN cables or Special RS485 Cables????
I considered buying it, or the cell packs which they sell. However, the fact that the cells have laser welded busbars made it a no go for me. The projected cycle life is great, the warranty not so good, and do you deal with a bad cell when they are laser welded?
I wonder if the passive balancer is able to keep the cells properly balanced over time. Anyone has any info on that? From Andy I've learned that you never want to balance cells under 3,45 volt since it will mess up the top balance. I wonder if this 3,45V. balancing point is programmed into the bms.
Hi, I really like the batteries but they do not ship to Europe. I tried to figure a service out to have them forwarded but with no success. Do you have any idea on how could I get 2 of those batteries to Europe?
I have 6 of these batteries new at Jan 15 2023. Now 2 of the have 3 charging lights on and 4 of them have the 4 lights on. How do I fully charge the 2 that only have 3 lights?
I just received my battery 3 days ago and is waiting for my pre-order 3K -ES Growatt inverter. I measured the battery voltage and was 53V . Just wonder why you did check the voltage first and start charging?
Thank you for the great videos. My project is just starting currently in the product selection phase. The end reason for my start of the project is to use my setup for charging my Tesla Model 3. But do want the ability to have this system on the grid, eventually. Have seen the battery packs you are showing mounted in a rack with one invertor, for this purpose. Fingers crossed you were hinting at something like that in your future project. The output from a system as called out would need to be 220 volts. One edit on my comment; what did they charge for shipping or is that included in the cost?
The largest lug I was able to fit on mine is 1/0 unfortunately. If you need 4/0 for some reason, the only way I can think of to do it (without replacing the terminals) is to use a busbar off to the side to run 1/0 from terminals to bar to combine the batteries, then a 4/0 off the bar to your load.
I am considering purchasing this unit but I've never used a server rack battery. My question is, " Can you safely connect a solar panel cable and an inverter cable to the inputs on the top of the case like I do on the terminals for a "normal" lithium battery ?" Thank You
Great view of a great product. I'm wishing for (2) 24v 200AH versions of the same. Price & value can't be beat, but- how I'm gonna fit them in & protect them from moisture & vibration is my struggle!!! Thanks, David!
Sailboat? Me, too. Signature solar says they can be placed vertically (back of battery down) and I might do this in a wood/fiberglass box with batteries locked in with rack mount tabs. My biggest struggle is the communication with Victron/Wakespeed equipment. I think the canbus of the EG4-LL might work but would need a translator.
@@jimduke5545 OK, but form factor consideration? Why not a bunch of 280AH cells in a SunFunKit box with a (2?) big JBD BMS'? Victron/Wakespeed communication issue aside- can they be configured to fit somewhere around the midline, kept dry & have software control certain actions- above & beyond the BMS? I'll build a couple, seal 'em with SikaFlex & have an awesome amount of power.
@@DCGULL01 sounds like a good approach. I’ve considered something similar but protecting my Alternator and managing all charge sources (solar, alternator, shore) are high priorities. Hence, the Wakespeed/Victron integration approach. In my case, I want (the admiral (wife) needs!), a ton (actually 2 tons) of air conditioning overnight so we need about 20kWh of storage budget for various cruising scenarios. The goal is NO generator and to use the Yanmar/Mppt to charge the battery while not on shore power and to manage the shore charger/mppt when attached to the dock. I have 5kW of alternator and 800W of solar. The electrical compartment could handle the server size batteries either stacked or vertically. The advantage, I see, is that during the 4-5 months of inactivity (winter) I could move the batts to my home and use them for solar energy storage. The big diss advantage-compared to your approach-is that the configuration is tall (approx 20”h x 19”d x 25”w boxed in) I can do a 3p8s single battery with eve 280Ah cells boxed in at 9”h x 19”d x 33”w. That’s 1/2 the volume. To your original comment, I think you CAN go with the server rack (sig solar) system if you are considering the diy approach. You would need to build your own “rack/box” to contain the batteries, and some type of vibration absorption system (think closed cell foam) within the box around the sig sol batteries). Plywood, foam dampening, and labor! You can be more efficient with the volume but there are other advantages to the server rack form factor. Compromises 🤔 Good luck with your system.
Hi...if using 6kw high frequency battery charger,with rema320 connector with CAN bus protocol..is that any bms come with can bus connection? Or any can module that can coordinate with bms and the charges
I purchased 5 of these batteries a few weeks ago and waiting on shipment to Alaska . Very excited about setting up a 25 KW System here. Solar energy for summer and I will need to be on generator in the winter. I want to charge the batteries with a natural gas generator and then use the batteries for power. This way I hope I can shut the generator down for several hours each day in the winter. Any ideas ?
Oh wow, what kind of PV output do you see in Alaska in the summer months? Regarding your question, I would look for an all-in-one inverter that has a built-in charger like the LV6548 from MPP Solar. You can feed the generator power to the AC input of the inverter and use the built-in charger to charge the battery.
It's a 5100Wh battery. Multiply that by 0.85 for inverter losses then divide by hourly consumption of your appliance. That will give you the runtime in hours.
I was told they the Eg4 won't communicate with the mpp 6548. Do you have the same problem and how do you get around them not being able to communicate?
The specifications sheet gives a recommended discharge of 30-50A and a maximum discharge of 100A. While it can handle 100A, running it at 100A ALL OF THE TIME (this is key) will reduce the overall lifespan of your battery. More amps = more heat = faster degradation. It's the same with anything. If you pound the heck out of your car, it likely won't last as long as if you drive it nicely and keep it clean. signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-48v-100ah/?ref=lithiumsolar
Because my bike was starting to malfunction after the second time using it on that new battery I think after the third time it was keeping cutting off then stopped the controller was really warm I think I need a new one what kind I should get for it part 2 of 2
The battery I tested in the video is a 48V battery. They do sell the same battery in a 12V configuration. The cells inside are the same but I'd assume there would be a different version of the BMS signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-12v-400ah/?ref=lithiumsolar
Great video. I'm on the fence between building one from scratch or purchasing these. Question: If I purchased four of these, and wanted to actually see the SOC for each, beyond the 4 light indicator. What would be the simplest and least expensive way to do this? I have a Sungold SP6548. Any guidance is appreciated.
If you have 4 of them, I assume you'll wire them all in parallel for one large battery bank. In that case, they'll all be at the same state of charge and you'll really only need to measure it once, after the point where the 4 packs are combined. The best way to do this would be a shunt. You specifically asked for the least expensive way and that would be one of the $25 shunts from Amazon (search for Spartan Power DC Shunt); however, my recommended way would be the Victron SmartShunt which is a well-respected brand and includes bluetooth so you can check a number of stats from your phone.
@@LithiumSolar So I ordered 4 on Friday and FED-EX just called and said they'll be here on Wednesday (5 Days from the day I ordered them). Is it advisable to discharge and fully charge each individually before placing into parallel or just hook em together and start using them ? Thanks in advance for your guidance .... again :)
hi. can these not be charged up to 58.4? I charge all my other lithium batteries to 56.4, I was thinking about trying these but only if they charge higher then what you did in the video
I am getting a 24volt reading across the positive terminal and the battery casing. Same thing from the negative to the casing. I have the 48volt version. Can anyone tell me why there is voltage on the case?
Any idea how I can charge my 3 EG4 batteries with shore power all the way to full volt capacity so I can then sync my Victron Smart monitor? The manual book that came with this is written in what looks to me like a foreign language (I don't speak electrician lol) I'd appreciate ANYONE'S step by step instructions.
Nice review! Just out of curiosity, I was looking at the Chint CB-125A. Could'nt find any reference to it on the web. How can you tell if it is DC compatible? I did find the Chint CB-125G where the DC 60-110V is clearly stated. I wonder if they are the same.
@@LithiumSolar Thanks. After the 2nd time of watching your vid, I kinda figured it out. The unit covers much of everything else needed (it appears), compared to just having a battery and then needing fuses, Temp sensors, etc.
Sorry, but while watching your video something came to mind. When using invertors do you have to be aware of the load types? Do inductive loads present problems to some investors?
Yes. Low-frequency inverters handle inductive loads significantly better than high-frequency inverters. You'll know if an inverter is low-frequency or not as it will have a massive transformer adding a lot of weight.
Great video, EG4 batteries are really good, hoping to build a system out of them. One question though, How many batteries can I parallel together with communication (to an inverter)? I believe their racks can hold up to 6 in parallel, lets say I have a second rack of these bad boys, can I still hook them up with communication?
Do you know how to hookup a motor controller to a ebike I got a swagtron envy ebike I think it has a 200 or 250 watt motor and the battery was only 36 volts at 4.4 amps I got a 14 amp battery for mine when I tested it I only went about 11 or so miles should I got more miles from it I think that battery has to much power for that motor controller part 1 of 2
Can you tell me how these batteries arrive by What shipper. I just ordered one and I'm afraid it's gonna come by a big truck which is restricted down my road with no place to turn around.
@@LithiumSolar The company for that battery would have been "signature solar," And that's what I was afraid of a big truck, Freaking freight was about $250. Because they're hazardous material. Gonna have to try to contact them this Tuesday I guess and get it figured out
Nice review of the 48v 100ah battery. How would the 24v 200ah version be configured? Are the (2) 8 cell 24v modules paralleled then fed into a common BMS? (8s2p) Also, can these work with Victron/Wakespeed canbus? A demo or at least a discussion of that would be awesome. Great channel. Thanks
Hello! I need to replace one cell of my battery pack (3.3 Volt 100 Amp) please send information about the supplier! I have difficulty finding only one cell to purchase! My cell is dead: 0 Volt and 0 Ohm!? Is there any way of repairing it? How I am going to proceed in my case? Please advise!
They are GFB-brand cells. This battery is not designed to be repairable though. I assume you purchased this from Signature Solar. Have you contacted them regarding the warranty?
@@LithiumSolar Thanks for the reply! My friend give it to me because I am electro-technical and now I need to be completed it as a battery pack! I really need one cell! Will short the faulty one and add the new one. BMS is been cut. Just need all 16 cells to be healthy!
Great review!. The main cicuit breaker is it AC or DC one? And does it matters to match the voltage of 48v than 230v? Or only A is what matters. Thanks
It could be missing the DC rating indication (long line with 5 dashes below) or it is NOT a DC rated breaker. The fact that it says 230v implies it is an AC breaker only. Maybe the BMS is meant to be the primary over current protection.
Yes, you can add more later as needed. Each battery has it's own BMS (battery management system) so there's no concern regarding them being the same age.
7000 cycles at 80% DOD. It doesn't give a rate though and I'd assume it's not 1C/1C at that amount of cycles. I would assume industry-standard 0.2C; however, it also doesn't give end-result state of health. So I guess you're right, a few pieces missing :)
Anyone know if you can buy this bms from someone in china. I want to use the growatt communication but can make my own batteries much cheaper then buying an eg4?
I have one 12-volt 400-amp EG4 dedicated to a reserve bank in my RV in addition to eight Battleborn batteries. If that I'd known about the Signature Solar EG4 I could have built built my system around them exclusively and saved quite a bit of money...
@@jacarajc Just a little bit of information one might consider for an RV installation/application... 8 battleborn batteries have a total weight of 232 pounds ( not counting all the extra 2/0 awg jumper leads ) that provide 800 amp hours and 10.24 kilowatt hours of stored power that cost me $7,200 before-tax. They are very successful and reliable go-to batteries for an RV mobile power system. However; if I had known about the EG4 batteries cost and performance qualities I could have saved $4,200 before tax and 26lbs. The virtues of the BattleBorn batteries are that they are individual smaller boxes, group 27 car battery configuration, that typically lend to adapting well in existing spaces found in an RV application. The Signature Solar EG4 rackmount battery may work if you have a space available that your imagination could adapt them to. Signature Solar does have a group 24 sized 100 amp 12 volt lithium battery in the $550 range which beats most Prismatic Cell LiFePo4 on the market but you don't get the $ bargain as compared to the rack mount style. Another factor to consider is the weatherproofing of the car battery type brands, because the rackmount type is not weatherproof. I have a slight concern about humidity in the long term use... Good luck with your system and may GOD bless you and your's!
EG4-LifePower4 Battery... signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-48v-100ah/?ref=lithiumsolar (affiliate links)
GFB Cell Modules... signaturesolar.com/eg4-8-cell-pack-lithium-cells-25-6v-100ah/?ref=lithiumsolar
Let me know what you think of these batteries, if you have any experience with them, and/or if there's anything you want to see me built with one!
Use this battery to charge an EcoFlow Delta Pro via the DC solar input! MC4 to XT60 adapter comes with the EcoFloe Delta Pro. Do it using normal 15 amp input of the EcoFlow Delta Pro and then do it again with boost converter at roughly 90amps. This is what I want to do an EG4 Life power.
Wow! I am very impressed with this review. Very detailed and you covered all important bits and then some. And then there was no lame intro video. You jumped straight to the goods. This is how all TH-cam reviews should be done.
We went from a Crown 430 lead acid bank to the 24volt version EG4, 1000AH. What an improvement!!
Got eight of these and am very pleased. Have just worked as advertised since install. They pair with a 12000 watt Growatt inverter. Buy as many as you can first go around as the shipping seems to be the same for two or 4. Got all my equipment, well solar panels, batteries, inverter and metal roof mounts from Signature Solar. Fast shipping and well packaged.
That's a healthy setup! I have that same inverter combo...
@@outoftexasRev7v9 So far, all is good. We'll see as the load increases as summer gets here and the AC kicks in.
So if the average home uses 1000 K watt a month
How long would the 6 battery setup power the home ?
I have 2 of these and very happy with them
I must point out that @ 1:19 the MCB shown is not suitable to extinguish high DC current loads as that's an AC (Alternating current 100Amp 230V 50hz MCB) not a D.C. (direct current one) nor it does have a DC logo on it. Hence its optimum overcurrent protection functionality will be affected overtime or worse arcs could arise 'when tripped' as DC is more difficult to disrupt compared to AC.
The circuit breaker is rated for 60VDC. It's perfectly fine in this application.
Well that’s strange as it doesn’t say so on its printed logo.
I’ll give you half right reasoning as the lower voltage being used (from its original rating) can some what compensate for the arcing features D.C has.
@@EF-Electrics It's not printed on the circuit breaker but it's in the datasheet. It's the same as the Nader breakers we're using - stamped for AC but datasheet lists them for low voltage DC as well.
Very nice informative video. Your voice makes it very easy to understand everything your saying. Thanks for being a TH-cam creator for us solar and battery enthusiast along with DIY folks.
My dad's got 60 KWH of those. There not being used yet. But he LOVES how they LOOK lol. Thanks for sharing brother. God Bless.
This is probably the best teardown video of a Signature Solar EG4 of all that I have seen. I have seven of the older, and I think better-looking versions where that the breaker is in the middle of the faceplate. I also have one of the 400 amp 12 volt versions for my RV.
I am sold on this being a well-designed and well-executed rackmount battery and very happy that James has been able to keep the price down; even though he pays an arm and a leg to bring them into the country for us to DIY solar!
Thanks for the appreciation, we will keep trying to earn it
I work for a solar company in Oklahoma, we just recently started installing these batteries instead of Simpliphi. The price for the quality is absolutely incredible on these. And the fact that You can fit 31kWh in a 2’ x 2’ x 4’ cabinet!
They're a great deal and they're UL-listed now!
I have a Sol-Ark 12K and unfortunately bought a SimpliPhi 3.8/48V bat at the same time. I opened up the SimpliPhi and it is JUNK compared to my three 48V LifePower bats. Expensive lesson learned.
@@TBooneFisher6931 Wow I'm surprised to hear that. I have never looked at one myself; however, I've heard they're one of the top choices for residential installs. What was wrong with it?
I live 4 hours from their shop, I had a issue and they fixed me up(inverter issue)...to save on shipping I bought another of this battery so now I have 2 of them. I have zero issues with mine, I rather like them. They simply work and I have my inverter set to take them down to 10%. It was really interesting getting to see their warehouse, So many things getting loaded and unloaded.
We are here for people like you!
Yeah, I only had to drive 90 miles pick all my stuff up... I bought panels and inverter and a EG4 batteries and they are great people to work with!
Each time being in their storefront warehouse was a treat and I enjoyed watching them working together; they can be quite busy. Good people to deal with from my experiences!
Great review! Thanks for that. But the low temperature test needs to be done with a cold S.P.A.T. 🍺 Interesting to see they are not compressing these cells and give them actually room to breath.
This is the future of building batteries. A bit more expensive than single cells but... what a time-safer!
I will have a 15kWh version on my channel soon 🤫
What is cold SPAT?
@@AndyMcBlane Have a look on my channel 😉
@@AndyMcBlane Solar panel array tool => Solar Panel orientation tool
Is just a empty beercan
@@raymont6191 clear as mud
I've been running three of these for the last month or so off grid, very good battery. The channel selection switch is upside down, I've shown how to set up the channels elsewhere on YT, if anyone needs the info reply to this post and I'll past the directions here.
One video and I'm hooked.
Fenomenal work man.
The batteries from this film were produced by the GanFeng company. Date of production on December 13, 2021
Yes. The GFB / Ganfeng batteries have quickly become one of the top brands.
czesc, wiesz moze gdzie w europie kupic taki produkt? zeby nie sciagac z usa?
Best review always 👍
Definitely that is the best battery in the world
Best regards from Philippines 🇵🇭
Fantastic breakdown of the battery. I am looking to possibly pick up four of them. Thank you
Another Great Review, Thanks!
Awesome review, very much appreciated, Thank you
Awesome review. Thanks!
Huge smile on that thumbnail. 👍👍👍
Thank you for a very thorough review. Now to try and get my hands on one! :)
Any chance you can do a video integrating this with a VictronLED multi +2 via can bus So we can see how well it works?
I don't have that particular inverter, but I do plan to do some testing with the software. I'll see what I can find out :)
Great comprehensive review, thanks..
One thing I really like about this battery is you can just use a regular ethernet cable to connect to a growatt inverter. You can then program the inverter to function by battery percentage vs voltage.
if you can get it to work
@@davidkettell5726 These work great, so long as the person has more than 2 brain cells, it sounds like a potential user error, not battery error.
Such a good price and value. Need to get some in Australia!
nah we are too busy selling 100ah 12v lithium batts for 2k lol
Any thoughts / input / experience with having two battery storage systems?
I have a professionally installed 9.2kw solar array + (1x) Powerwall2 battery. Our utility is making changes, and it's clearly now in my best interest to add more battery capacity. I'm not yet sure how to integrate and isolate a second battery storage solution. I'll also install more/new panels, that I can wire directly to the second system; two independent arrays.
Great video, I like your attention to detail
Very nice build. Great video as usual 😊
One of my gripes is the front panel DC connections. Looks like there is space to modify for rear panel connections - but it would be better if modification was not required. Something like an Anderson Power Products 150amp connector in the back.
I wonder how many I'd have to order to get that changed...
Why would you want rear connections? You would no longer be able to put the rack up against the wall and would need to leave adequate space for a person to fit behind it to install/service.
@@LithiumSolar You presume I'd be trying to pull it up against a wall or wouldn't already want space around the rack (or that it's the only rack I have)... and to be fair, all of the youtube installations of these modules I've seen are small-time residential DIY-"hacking"-jobs (so perhaps your questions is from an out of sight, out of mind frame of mind). This'll be a bit long winded.
In a typical commercial rack installation, one leaves space behind the rack to be able to access the rear mounting for the larger devices, cabling, power, and passthrough ventillation (hot-aisle/cold-aisle achitecture). High power or voltage (say 4x of these in series for a standard 192VDC bus used by commercial 3-phase inverters/UPSes) isn't the kind of thing you want your datacenter techs brushing up against. So keeping the power away from status and general service interfaces is how its done in the industry. Things people shouldn't touch are kept behind either key-locked panels or tools-required-to-enter panels (with warnings plastered all over them). Opening these panels is a presumed statement of "I know what I'm doing, and I've been warned of the consequences of not knowing".
Like I mentioned in the original post an Anderson type plug which is touch safe, meaning one can't get fingers into the contacts when the connector is unplugged, or the conector when mated is fully enclosed - is better IMO than screw terminals behind a chinsy plastic cover (which by the way one could still get fingers past, or drop a screw into especially since multiple stacked units would have their screws vertially aligned). But it also would allow one to slide a battery module into a rack shelf and blind-mate to a rack-afixed conector which completes the DC bus for replacement/service without getting hands on power connections (pull some front thumb-screws and disconnect the RS-485 cables and pull the handles out to remove). Now imagine having a few units in parallel, and having to take one out of service while the rest of the system was still online - that means sure, you can turn off the screw terminals for that unit, but the cable ataching to a busbar is still live through the bus bar end, so when you pull it off the screw terminal now you have a live exposed cable end in your hand (and you would have to us insulated tools, which I'd argue most people don't know to have). They way these are designed now is more conducive to turning off the whole system to do any work on it - what if the customer is on a respirator or some other critical thing like the raptor fence is running off the output? Even Nedry knew not to mess with the raptors...
If one were to try to charge something like a 4S2P array (192V@200Ah) from a commerically available DC power supply (Magna-Power TSD250-120/208, 6u Rack mount 30kW programmable AC/DC converter) - and say 10x 2kW Eaton 3-phase 280Y/120V inverters, you're already going to have back access needs for the other devices. And they have front panel controls which need to be accessed, so to meet NFPA life safety codes having these cables on the front is problematic (or may require an additional, separate rack so the front connections can be protected behind a locked door). Rather than having the inverters on a wall with cables running everywhere - one could package this into a single standard 42U rack and turn it sideways so that the "front" and "rear" could still be accessed while it's flat against the wall.
Having worked in both high end home theater for custom residential construction (the kind you'd see in magazines) and commerical facility design (480V 1200Amp, 600V 800Amp >>per floor
@@Real_Tim_S Keep in mind that these can NOT be series connected. 48V is it.
@@LithiumSolar Signature Solar provided me with different information than that.
@@Real_Tim_S Well that certainly is news to me... I shall ask and check the FETs.
Dyness batteries are becoming so much available but not sure if they use Prismatic cells. Please open up a dyness BX51100 battery. Would love to see which cells are being used
Great battery ,i have had no problems except that it takes two people to move because of the weight but i knew that going in so have fun trying to get it in a server rack by yourself
The best part is knowing that you only have to do that one time👍
To be critical, it is nice-ish, but could be better.
My biggest fear is that none of the BMS wires are fused, so while the harness is nice, if some short occurs on the BMS PCB or connector, or any of the wires anywhere, that harness will smoke fast.
It's mindblowing how many of the battery packs miss this!
Another nuance is that any thin wire which goes near any large terminal, screw, heatsink, etc, should be in some protective tubing and possibly fastened to prevent movement or contact with anything. For example the long, loose grey wire that goes to the BMS from the breaker. Remember, it doesn't matter if the large wires are fused, if an 1mm2 or so wire starts to burn. It will not draw enough current to trip the breaker, but potentially can cause fire.
Another observation, which is not a safety issue but might or might not be a convenience issue: the arrangement of the front panel. When you connect something to the screw terminals, it will protrude into the next rack unit. You can't wire it downwards either, because the breaker is directly under the terminal. In case you want to stack a series of these, you can't use a busbar either.
It would be nicer to position the terminals horizontally in the centerline and shift the breaker out of the way. Or possibly place both terminals on the left side diagonally, that way it could be wired either veritcally or horizontally as seem fit.
These units are currently on presale for $1449, $50 discount on the preorders.
These now come with what looks like a fire suppression kit that is stuck to the lid as well. Is there a UL label anywhere?
I reviewed this before it was listed, therefore mine does not have a UL label anywhere. I can't say whether or not they have a label currently. If you're looking to buy one and need the label for inspection or other purposes, I would check with Signature Solar before you purchase.
Wonder why no one does test and reviews on the 12v of this battery. I just installed a 12v in my 5th wheel with a Victron system. Hope to get out next month to a campground to run some test on it. No issues running the A/C (1 a/c not both). But I am still looking for things like how it can communicate with Victron as they were supposed to partner up. anyway good info on this unit.
I'm building a 48v 120ah pack and based on the data provided by manufacturer, these cells have a stndard charge current of 24A, fast charge current 120A, and Max Charge current is 180A.
What's your suggestion, use the standard or can I use something higher to make it faster?
Awesome review!
Excellent video. Very, VERY nice batteries...
If the bms shuts off at 47v, shouldn't it automatically turn back on once you apply a charge on it? Mine turns off and then i have manually switch the breaker off and on again to get it working.
Well done video gratz 4 that, but I have a question. Did you get the Lifepower4 battery and MPP Solar LV6548 successful communication? What did you do? Thank you in advance.
this battery is just like the one that David Poz reviewed a while back from Signature solar ? just this one that you are reviewing in your video looks much better build than the previous version, and your video has more details explained, and I think the price and longevity still very good . I don't know about the shipping cost? but nice video !
Yes, it's similar to the batteries David has. It looks like his are an older version of the EG4-LL model. This is the EG4-LifePower4 model. Shipping will vary depending on location. For me, it looks to be in the $300 range for 1-5 batteries.
@@LithiumSolar 300 dollars is a little too high if you buy one or two ? it used to be free shipping when David made his video ? anyway thanks for the reply !
@@LithiumSolar good day, 12v 100ah.. for how many hours will this battery system last with the following load:
800w?
600w?
500w?
400w?
200w?
100w?
32w?
hours or minutes please
I'm thinking about adding a battery to my grid tie 10kw Growatt to capture the clipped energy (13kw panel array) for later, but the inverter is in an unheated barn. It's common for temps to get below 32F in the winter. Let's say the barn gets cold and so the battery gets to 32F, does it just isolate itself from charging? I guess what I'm really asking is it "ok" to have a plan where the battery just doesn't work when it's too cold but then it automatically brings itself back online when it gets above 32F? I really think the main time the battery would see use is in the summer so I'm not all that worried about not getting use in the winter, but I'm concerned the cold on-off-on-off-on cycles would be harmful to the battery.
Great Review but . . . Nobody has done a descent review of the BMS software. Maybe you can do that next. thanks
Sure, that's a great idea!
@@LithiumSolar I'm curious as to how well the balancer would keep up with .5c charge / discharge. Trying to decide between these and a DIY with a JK BMS. Screen capture of cell voltages during charge / discharge would be nice to see. thanks
I have tried to find there cell packs but the link etc. does not show them. I'll contact them in the AM. I did order the 12V version of this unit... Hope to use it with my
soon to install Victron MultiPlus II 12V 3000VA (I think it is) ... and Cerbo GX and some solar .. I hope this unit will communicate etc. with the rest but maybe it doesn't... hard to find documentation on such configuration.
If this had been around at this price 4 years ago I would have snatched it up in a heartbeat. But by the time I have to replace the battery I built? I am betting these will be a quarter of their present cost.
The only thing wrong with this battery is the weight, but nothing can be done about that. It takes two people to move it and put it in a server rack .
Hit the gym :P
Could you imagine the same in lead acid? Not that heavy after all 💯😄
I don't have any problem lifting it myself, but yeah it is heavy. I use a hand truck to move it around from place to place then lift off of the hand truck on to the bench. Guess it depends on the person and never hurts to ask a friend for help regardless so as not to hurt your back :)
@@LithiumSolar I hear that, you only get one spine 🤣
what exactly is the setting of the dip-switches , how can we controll if the setting is ok?
We connect 3x for your Battery-pack (48V, 50Ah) in serial DC ( 144v , 50Ah) , and RS485 communication Cables .
Then we connect the DC output to the Growatt Hybrid inverter SPH5000TL3 DC, and via CAN with an CAN-Cable also to the CAN - Plug of the Inverter.
BUT Growatt Inverter can not communicate with YOUR Battery-Packs!??
So, we need urgend , for YOUR application we use, technical support / connection plan scetch from your tecnical depatment.
Also we must konw , how to set the dip-switches for each battery-pack (Master and slave settings for each Pack) ?
Aslo we need to know , if we need special CAN cables or Special RS485 Cables????
This battery cannot be connected in series with other batteries.
@@LithiumSolar why??????not
@@dibeerwolf1645 The components in the BMS are not designed to withstand that high of a voltage.
@@LithiumSolar why
Thx. Any special setup with the MPP SOLAR for these batteries in the MPP SOLAR configuration? I am using the LVX 6048.
Question:
Can EMP's harm the newer Batteries like:
CHINS 24V 200Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Deep Cycle Battery BMS. ?
Sorry, I don't know much (anything really) about EMP.
@@LithiumSolar At least you answered me and that's much appreciated!
I considered buying it, or the cell packs which they sell. However, the fact that the cells have laser welded busbars made it a no go for me. The projected cycle life is great, the warranty not so good, and do you deal with a bad cell when they are laser welded?
Great stuff man!
I wonder if the passive balancer is able to keep the cells properly balanced over time. Anyone has any info on that? From Andy I've learned that you never want to balance cells under 3,45 volt since it will mess up the top balance. I wonder if this 3,45V. balancing point is programmed into the bms.
Pretty sure I read that it will balance whenever voltage is above 3.6v a cell
Hi, I really like the batteries but they do not ship to Europe. I tried to figure a service out to have them forwarded but with no success. Do you have any idea on how could I get 2 of those batteries to Europe?
I'm not familiar with international shipping unfortunately. I would reach out to Signature Solar and see if they have any advice.
I have 6 of these batteries new at Jan 15 2023. Now 2 of the have 3 charging lights on and 4 of them have the 4 lights on. How do I fully charge the 2 that only have 3 lights?
I just received my battery 3 days ago and is waiting for my pre-order 3K -ES Growatt inverter. I measured the battery voltage and was 53V . Just wonder why you did check the voltage first and start charging?
@LithiumSolar do you think this battery would be OK to install in an RV from a vibration point of view?
Did you ever get this battery to communicate with the Lv6548? Would love to know how, if you did. Signature Solar says it will not. Thank you!
Thank you for the great videos. My project is just starting currently in the product selection phase. The end reason for my start of the project is to use my setup for charging my Tesla Model 3. But do want the ability to have this system on the grid, eventually. Have seen the battery packs you are showing mounted in a rack with one invertor, for this purpose. Fingers crossed you were hinting at something like that in your future project. The output from a system as called out would need to be 220 volts.
One edit on my comment; what did they charge for shipping or is that included in the cost?
I have 2 EG4 batteries in parallel but the terminals are too small for my 4/0 wire lugs. Any idea on a work around??
The largest lug I was able to fit on mine is 1/0 unfortunately. If you need 4/0 for some reason, the only way I can think of to do it (without replacing the terminals) is to use a busbar off to the side to run 1/0 from terminals to bar to combine the batteries, then a 4/0 off the bar to your load.
LithiumSolar
, Wish they would sell this in the UK
I am considering purchasing this unit but I've never used a server rack battery. My question is, " Can you safely connect a solar panel cable and an inverter cable to the inputs on the top of the case like I do on the terminals for a "normal" lithium battery ?" Thank You
You cannot connect a solar panel directly to any lithium battery. It has to be connected to a charge controller designed for LFP batteries.
Great view of a great product. I'm wishing for (2) 24v 200AH versions of the same. Price & value can't be beat, but- how I'm gonna fit them in & protect them from moisture & vibration is my struggle!!! Thanks, David!
Sailboat? Me, too. Signature solar says they can be placed vertically (back of battery down) and I might do this in a wood/fiberglass box with batteries locked in with rack mount tabs. My biggest struggle is the communication with Victron/Wakespeed equipment. I think the canbus of the EG4-LL might work but would need a translator.
@@jimduke5545 OK, but form factor consideration? Why not a bunch of 280AH cells in a SunFunKit box with a (2?) big JBD BMS'? Victron/Wakespeed communication issue aside- can they be configured to fit somewhere around the midline, kept dry & have software control certain actions- above & beyond the BMS? I'll build a couple, seal 'em with SikaFlex & have an awesome amount of power.
@@DCGULL01 sounds like a good approach. I’ve considered something similar but protecting my Alternator and managing all charge sources (solar, alternator, shore) are high priorities. Hence, the Wakespeed/Victron integration approach.
In my case, I want (the admiral (wife) needs!), a ton (actually 2 tons) of air conditioning overnight so we need about 20kWh of storage budget for various cruising scenarios. The goal is NO generator and to use the Yanmar/Mppt to charge the battery while not on shore power and to manage the shore charger/mppt when attached to the dock. I have 5kW of alternator and 800W of solar.
The electrical compartment could handle the server size batteries either stacked or vertically. The advantage, I see, is that during the 4-5 months of inactivity (winter) I could move the batts to my home and use them for solar energy storage. The big diss advantage-compared to your approach-is that the configuration is tall (approx 20”h x 19”d x 25”w boxed in)
I can do a 3p8s single battery with eve 280Ah cells boxed in at 9”h x 19”d x 33”w. That’s 1/2 the volume.
To your original comment, I think you CAN go with the server rack (sig solar) system if you are considering the diy approach. You would need to build your own “rack/box” to contain the batteries, and some type of vibration absorption system (think closed cell foam) within the box around the sig sol batteries). Plywood, foam dampening, and labor! You can be more efficient with the volume but there are other advantages to the server rack form factor.
Compromises 🤔
Good luck with your system.
Do you know what brand of BMS is in that battery?
Hi...if using 6kw high frequency battery charger,with rema320 connector with CAN bus protocol..is that any bms come with can bus connection? Or any can module that can coordinate with bms and the charges
I purchased 5 of these batteries a few weeks ago and waiting on shipment to Alaska . Very excited about setting up a 25 KW System here. Solar energy for summer and I will need to be on generator in the winter. I want to charge the batteries with a natural gas generator and then use the batteries for power. This way I hope I can shut the generator down for several hours each day in the winter. Any ideas ?
Oh wow, what kind of PV output do you see in Alaska in the summer months? Regarding your question, I would look for an all-in-one inverter that has a built-in charger like the LV6548 from MPP Solar. You can feed the generator power to the AC input of the inverter and use the built-in charger to charge the battery.
What is the make/model of the BMS and do you know if it is programable?
I just bought two of lifepower4. I know that they are built to lay flat but will i hurt them by standing them on end?
No, it will not hurt them to sit with the front of the battery (where the breaker and connections are) facing up.
for how many hours can you power an AC 1-ton unit with this battery? thank you
It's a 5100Wh battery. Multiply that by 0.85 for inverter losses then divide by hourly consumption of your appliance. That will give you the runtime in hours.
@@LithiumSolar thank you so much
I was told they the Eg4 won't communicate with the mpp 6548. Do you have the same problem and how do you get around them not being able to communicate?
What make/model BMS is used in this battery and do you know IF it is programable?
Thx,
Tom Fisher
Am planning to but five 51.2 lifepo4 battery should I one 100ah or 50ah discharge.
The specifications sheet gives a recommended discharge of 30-50A and a maximum discharge of 100A. While it can handle 100A, running it at 100A ALL OF THE TIME (this is key) will reduce the overall lifespan of your battery. More amps = more heat = faster degradation. It's the same with anything. If you pound the heck out of your car, it likely won't last as long as if you drive it nicely and keep it clean.
signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-48v-100ah/?ref=lithiumsolar
@@LithiumSolar I ask the question if it is good or bad choice ????
@@hutchie9615 In my opinion, using it at 100A routintely is a bad choice.
Because my bike was starting to malfunction after the second time using it on that new battery I think after the third time it was keeping cutting off then stopped the controller was really warm I think I need a new one what kind I should get for it part 2 of 2
How could I use this battery is 12v system ?
The battery I tested in the video is a 48V battery. They do sell the same battery in a 12V configuration. The cells inside are the same but I'd assume there would be a different version of the BMS signaturesolar.com/eg4-lifepower4-lithium-battery-12v-400ah/?ref=lithiumsolar
Great video. I'm on the fence between building one from scratch or purchasing these. Question: If I purchased four of these, and wanted to actually see the SOC for each, beyond the 4 light indicator. What would be the simplest and least expensive way to do this? I have a Sungold SP6548. Any guidance is appreciated.
If you have 4 of them, I assume you'll wire them all in parallel for one large battery bank. In that case, they'll all be at the same state of charge and you'll really only need to measure it once, after the point where the 4 packs are combined. The best way to do this would be a shunt. You specifically asked for the least expensive way and that would be one of the $25 shunts from Amazon (search for Spartan Power DC Shunt); however, my recommended way would be the Victron SmartShunt which is a well-respected brand and includes bluetooth so you can check a number of stats from your phone.
@@LithiumSolar I sure appreciate you taking the time to respond sir :)
@@LithiumSolar So I ordered 4 on Friday and FED-EX just called and said they'll be here on Wednesday (5 Days from the day I ordered them). Is it advisable to discharge and fully charge each individually before placing into parallel or just hook em together and start using them ? Thanks in advance for your guidance .... again :)
@@bryanward7451 make sure each one is within 0.1V before paralleling them. That will minimize the current needed to equalize the charge levels.
hi. can these not be charged up to 58.4? I charge all my other lithium batteries to 56.4, I was thinking about trying these but only if they charge higher then what you did in the video
I am getting a 24volt reading across the positive terminal and the battery casing. Same thing from the negative to the casing. I have the 48volt version. Can anyone tell me why there is voltage on the case?
Any idea how I can charge my 3 EG4 batteries with shore power all the way to full volt capacity so I can then sync my Victron Smart monitor?
The manual book that came with this is written in what looks to me like a foreign language (I don't speak electrician lol)
I'd appreciate ANYONE'S step by step instructions.
Nice review! Just out of curiosity, I was looking at the Chint CB-125A. Could'nt find any reference to it on the web. How can you tell if it is DC compatible? I did find the Chint CB-125G where the DC 60-110V is clearly stated. I wonder if they are the same.
This is a kickass battery! Prismatic cells are dead meat!!
@Bill, these are made of prismatic cells welded together in series. 16 prismatic cells to make up the pack.
I can't get mine to work at all..... it just shuts the power off when a load is hit to it and then turns back on like nothing happened
Great Channel
Thanks. Great run thru. This looks as if it's ready to hook up to the house fuse box. True? Also can 240 be hooked up using this?
This is just a battery. You would need an inverter to convert the DC to AC power and hook up to your fuse/breaker panel.
@@LithiumSolar Thanks. After the 2nd time of watching your vid, I kinda figured it out. The unit covers much of everything else needed (it appears), compared to just having a battery and then needing fuses, Temp sensors, etc.
Sorry, but while watching your video something came to mind. When using invertors do you have to be aware of the load types? Do inductive loads present problems to some investors?
Yes. Low-frequency inverters handle inductive loads significantly better than high-frequency inverters. You'll know if an inverter is low-frequency or not as it will have a massive transformer adding a lot of weight.
I have two of these batteries tied in parallel
One of the batteries run light blinks. Anyone know why ?
Thanks
Great video, EG4 batteries are really good, hoping to build a system out of them. One question though, How many batteries can I parallel together with communication (to an inverter)? I believe their racks can hold up to 6 in parallel, lets say I have a second rack of these bad boys, can I still hook them up with communication?
This particular battery allows for 15 to be connected together on the comms port.
@@LithiumSolar Good to know, Thank you!!
Great, so EG4 also have -5 degree setting as low temperature protection. great.
Yes, appears to be the same as the Jakiper when I tested it.
Nice review. I'll take five please. 500Ah should be enough to get me through the night. Thanks for sharing
Heck yeah, that would be a sweet setup! Might as well grab a 6th and you'd have a full rack lol.
Do you know how to hookup a motor controller to a ebike I got a swagtron envy ebike I think it has a 200 or 250 watt motor and the battery was only 36 volts at 4.4 amps I got a 14 amp battery for mine when I tested it I only went about 11 or so miles should I got more miles from it I think that battery has to much power for that motor controller part 1 of 2
Sorry, I don't have any experience with ebikes to be able to offer assistance.
Hello, @LithiumSolar, are these batteries available also in the European Union? Thank you. :)
I have no idea. You might ask Signature Solar this question.
Thanks. I have asked them, already. :)
Can you tell me how these batteries arrive by What shipper. I just ordered one and I'm afraid it's gonna come by a big truck which is restricted down my road with no place to turn around.
I don't recall the company. They ship freight though and are usually larger trucks.
@@LithiumSolar The company for that battery would have been "signature solar,"
And that's what I was afraid of a big truck, Freaking freight was about $250. Because they're hazardous material. Gonna have to try to contact them this Tuesday I guess and get it figured out
Nice review of the 48v 100ah battery. How would the 24v 200ah version be configured? Are the (2) 8 cell 24v modules paralleled then fed into a common BMS? (8s2p) Also, can these work with Victron/Wakespeed canbus? A demo or at least a discussion of that would be awesome.
Great channel. Thanks
Hello! I need to replace one cell of my battery pack (3.3 Volt 100 Amp) please send information about the supplier! I have difficulty finding only one cell to purchase! My cell is dead: 0 Volt and 0 Ohm!? Is there any way of repairing it? How I am going to proceed in my case? Please advise!
They are GFB-brand cells. This battery is not designed to be repairable though. I assume you purchased this from Signature Solar. Have you contacted them regarding the warranty?
@@LithiumSolar Thanks for the reply! My friend give it to me because I am electro-technical and now I need to be completed it as a battery pack! I really need one cell! Will short the faulty one and add the new one. BMS is been cut. Just need all 16 cells to be healthy!
Hello...is this good quality
Great review!.
The main cicuit breaker is it AC or DC one? And does it matters to match the voltage of 48v than 230v? Or only A is what matters.
Thanks
It could be missing the DC rating indication (long line with 5 dashes below) or it is NOT a DC rated breaker. The fact that it says 230v implies it is an AC breaker only. Maybe the BMS is meant to be the primary over current protection.
The single pole Chint CB-125 is rated for 60VDC per their datasheet
@@LithiumSolar Their documentation is very ambiguous about any DC rating. If the DC symbol is not on the breaker, I don't think it is rated for it.
Could someone start with one of these and then add a 2nd in parallel a year down the road? Or do all batteries in parallel need to be same age?
Yes, you can add more later as needed. Each battery has it's own BMS (battery management system) so there's no concern regarding them being the same age.
7000 cycles is not very good specsmanship. The cells are rated at 4000 cycles 1C/1C 100%DOD. The 7000 cycles is not a manufacturers spec
7000 cycles at 80% DOD. It doesn't give a rate though and I'd assume it's not 1C/1C at that amount of cycles. I would assume industry-standard 0.2C; however, it also doesn't give end-result state of health. So I guess you're right, a few pieces missing :)
Anyone know if you can buy this bms from someone in china. I want to use the growatt communication but can make my own batteries much cheaper then buying an eg4?
good for rv?
im in the building process of one currently
what would you recommend, (12v probably)
I have one 12-volt 400-amp EG4 dedicated to a reserve bank in my RV in addition to eight Battleborn batteries.
If that I'd known about the Signature Solar EG4 I could have built built my system around them exclusively and saved quite a bit of money...
@@outoftexasRev7v9 thank you!
@@jacarajc
Just a little bit of information one might consider for an RV installation/application...
8 battleborn batteries have a total weight of 232 pounds ( not counting all the extra 2/0 awg jumper leads ) that provide 800 amp hours and 10.24 kilowatt hours of stored power that cost me $7,200 before-tax. They are very successful and reliable go-to batteries for an RV mobile power system. However; if I had known about the EG4 batteries cost and performance qualities I could have saved $4,200 before tax and 26lbs.
The virtues of the BattleBorn batteries are that they are individual smaller boxes, group 27 car battery configuration, that typically lend to adapting well in existing spaces found in an RV application. The Signature Solar EG4 rackmount battery may work if you have a space available that your imagination could adapt them to.
Signature Solar does have a group 24 sized 100 amp 12 volt lithium battery in the $550 range which beats most Prismatic Cell LiFePo4 on the market but you don't get the $ bargain as compared to the rack mount style.
Another factor to consider is the weatherproofing of the car battery type brands, because the rackmount type is not weatherproof.
I have a slight concern about humidity in the long term use...
Good luck with your system and may GOD bless you and your's!
Nice 😁👍