As a beekeeper and woodworker, I put my cappings and such in an old tube sock then place it in the water. The wax that comes out of the sock is almost clean. The added bonus is the chopped up sock makes a good fire starter.
that's a great idea. I was using sections old cotton sheets over a strainer but inefficient as heat isn't maintained as you pour it. But your method, the wax is under constant heat.
Sadly my workshop is outside and pretty much all tools are staying outside. I made some with beewax pellets and vegetable oil. Isn't perfect but will prevent a lot of rusting especially for my chisels.
I am using your hard wax recipe for waxing my plane soles. I had an idea to pour it into a clean and empty twist up refillable deodorant container - should be less messy to handle :)
@@nickgardner1705 worked very well - a couple of things worth noting: 1) I used Jojoba oil instead of linseed (what I had on hand). 2) bees wax melts at around 70C or 160F. I recommend monitoring the temperature and pouring the wax at slightly above that. the first pour I did the wax was way to hot - it melted the plastic of the container and made a smelly mess. the second one I made sure the wax was much cooler (under 200F) and I pored it. works amazing. I was using my No. 8, then added some wax to the sole - it shot forward so fast I almost lost control :) also, keep a bowl of cold water with ice at hand
If you want to filter raw dirty wax in ONE GO, here's what we do with our wax (we keep bees): 1. Find a metal pot or tray that fits into your oven 2. It needs to be deep enough to hold some water in it and hold some kind of a metal strainer - it doesn't matter if it's fine or not 3. Put a few inches of water into the pot, put the strainer on it, put 2 layers of kitchen towels across the whole strainer and put the wax onto that 4. Put everything into the oven and set it to 155-160F (65-70C) and check periodically if there's any wax left in the strainer. 5. When all the raw wax is gone, turn off the oven and let everything cool down The wax slowly melts and runs through the towels, dripping into the water below. All the impurities and stuff are left on the towels in the strainer. When you let everything cool, the wax in the water solidifes into a puck and floats on top of the water, but it's clean, all that dirt and stuff is on the towels. You just throw it away and voila, a pot full of nice clean wax. The 155-160F temperature is the melting point of beeswax, when it flows nicely, cause it needs to get thin in order to go through the towels. Beeswax is flammable and it does not boil, just gets hotter and hotter and then ignites, but don't worry - the flashpoint of beeswax is 400F (204C), so you're nowhere near that. Also, the 155-160F range won't damage or discolor the wax, it won't ruin it. When I first tried this, I wasn't expecting results, really, I thought I was going to get a bunch of hardener wax towel mess, so it was pretty much a surprise when it worked. I've been using this method every since cause it removed any neccessity for cheese cloths, rags, multiple meltings and a bunch of water I used to use, and - it comes out yellow and clean. Hope this helps, thanks James for making this video!
I tried this method a while back, but maybe I had slightly higher temperature as my wax was duller in colour and not as bright yellow when I have done it with water. Will have to try again to see, although I'm thinking of using a solar melter as well to see how that goes.
Great recipes! Another I like to use is a mix of roughly 3 parts beeswax to 1 part USP grade mineral oil. I adjust it until a sample of the cooled mix is like a thick grease or old Johnson's paste wax. At that point it can be easily massaged by hand into the wood. It's a great idea for food contact wood items like cutting boards, spoons, spatulas and salad bowls. And unlike the tung or other nut oils I used to use the beeswax and mineral oil is not a strong allergen in case someone in the family or a visitor is allergic to nuts. The mixture is surprisingly tolerant of being washed. But make at a dunk, wipe, rinse, dry sort of deal as any long term soaking will obviously soak into the wood after a while. So yeah. Beeswax. It's good for more than just in the shop.
I use bees wax with pine turpentine and works very well. Also it depends from the postions of these two elmements to be hard or very soft. I will try also your recipe. Thanks for the video and ideas
Thanks for the good instructions, James! I ordered some pure bees wax and cold pressed linseed oil from a local health shop right away, will be making my own hard wax as soon as that order comes in!
Just an idea, have you thought about using a cheese slicer to clean the entire top one time? You could make a large enough one to clean it in one swoop. I made one for cutting clay. :)
First time I tried this the worst part was cleaning the pot. Second time I tried I boiled water and put the wax in one of those metal pie pans and set it on top of the boiling water pot. Worked great and clean up was easy peasy.
Thanks, I’m going to order some of your 2:1 hard wax with raw linseed oil, looks useful, and plain beeswax is way too hard. FYI, I made my own soft wax following an old “colonial” recipe I found online, and it is basically 1:1:1, (or in your example 2:2:2) with beeswax, BLO, and mineral spirits in equal parts. I’m not sure what the extra half measure of mineral spirits does to the hardness compared to your recipe, whether it makes it harder or softer (?) but it seems to work ok on my wood projects. Thanks. 👍
Also works great on screws and drill bits, especially in hardwoods. And when I worked in the commercial glazing business (long, long time ago) we always used beeswax when cutting or drilling aluminum.
If you crush the puck before heating it up for the secont time you"ll use less energy and time to melt it again. If you manage to doubble the surfvavae area it will melt in half the time so I imagine only 4 good centre brakes should do it.
This is exactly what I needed! Some time ago, I got 2 blocks of bee’s wax for lubricating my planes and that does not work at all because the wax is way too hard. As is so often the case, I thought this was a good idea at the time. Oh, well. We’re traveling right now, but first thing I’m gonna try when I get home is to make the hard wax according to this recipe! Looking forward to it!
I did this yesterday. Took like 10 minutes for the wax to dissolve or melt, plus another 1-2 hours for it to cool down again after the pour. OMG, this stuff is sooo good and so so much better than the obvious crap I used to use. Thank you so much!
I don't know where is my mistake, but my bees hard wax stops the plane instead to move smooth and faster. I will try to melt candle and mix it with liquid paraffine. I will share what will happen.
I made few ratios: - only candle - very hard to apply to the sole and can't feel glide differences . - 1:4, 1part liquid paraffin with 4 parts melted candle - the mixture stays hard like candle and feels little bit oily. Better apply to the sole than the pure candle, but still not good gliding. - 1:3 - the mixture stays hard and feels more oily in the hand. Good apply to the sole, little bit better gliding. - 1:2 - the mixture stays hard again and feel very oily in the hand. Very good apply to the sole, very good gliding. - 1:1 - the mixture stays hard at first look, feel very very oily and feels like starts to melt in the hand. Apply to sole very easy and glide like 1:2 mixture. 1:2 think is the best mix for me. Twist cans from paper glue were filled, so the wax will stay clean and easy to use. I'm pretty sure Rob Cosman's wax is on the same base. Not so much variants for wax i think. The bees wax i will use for wood protection, just doesn't work for me as lubricant. Happy planing guys! :)
Thanks so much for the "buy it if you want, make it if you want" approach. Totally the opposite of the "this is secretly an advert thinly disguised as a tutorial" approach. And with wax from a pal with bees and oil from a pal with a press, I never felt less advertised-to!
I made few ratios: - only candle - very hard to apply to the sole and can't feel glide differences . - 1:4, 1part liquid paraffin with 4 parts melted candle - the mixture stays hard like candle and feels little bit oily. Better apply to the sole than the pure candle, but still not good gliding. - 1:3 - the mixture stays hard and feels more oily in the hand. Good apply to the sole, little bit better gliding. - 1:2 - the mixture stays hard again and feel very oily in the hand. Very good apply to the sole, very good gliding. - 1:1 - the mixture stays hard at first look, feel very very oily and feels like starts to melt in the hand. Apply to sole very easy and glide like 1:2 mixture. 1:2 think is the best mix for me. Twist cans from paper glue were filled, so the wax will stay clean and easy to use. I'm pretty sure Rob Cosman's wax is on the same base. Not so much variants for wax i think. The bees wax i will use for wood protection, just doesn't work for me as lubricant. Happy planing guys! :)
Very nice tutorial video, thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video. Liked and subscribed. I also ordered both of your waxes from your site.
I of course made a mess in the kitchen. Thankfully my wife and I don't share a kitchen. We'll see how it goes. I made the harder version,and made it into this wafers, because that's what I had. Summers here are upper 90s and low 100s daily, so I might have to melt it into a bigger chunk. Vamos a ver. Thanks for the instructions. I'll do better next time.
Does anyone know if you can use Gamsol Refined Linseed Oil for this? I have left over from oil painting and was wondering if it'll work. Also if I can use Paint Thinner since Mineral Spirit is banned here in CA😬
I love your instructional video:. It is simply wonderful to hear international traits coined into the narrative. Thank you so much for sharing this fabulous data. Best of luck.
Awesome video as usual. I think I’ll just keep buying from you to support the channel. My wife was listening and cracked up at the Brazilian wax joke. 😂😂😂😂😂😂
When I process my wax from honey extraction, I typically pour into ice cube trays after my final cleaning. just makes it WAY easier to get the right amount of wax you need instead of trying to break apart a big block of wax......which can be a real challenge....and a mess. OH.....just a warning.....DO NOT use your wife's favorite cookware to process the wax.......go to a thrift store and buy a cheap pot to do your wax processing in....you will thank me later. lol
Unfortunately for the video the silicone molds were in use as I use them as well to mold the hard wax. I just messed up my timing and it ended up hardening in the bucket.
Is the hard wax good for rust prevention on power tool table tops? I have a 10" band saw and a bench top drill press, both with cast iron platforms. Right now I'm using 3 in 1 oil. It works, but I have to reapply it often. The tools are under a an awning outside (one day I'll have a climate controlled workshop, one day). I'm just wondering if the wax will last longer. Thanks! FYI, I just subscribed.
Could the linseed oil be subbed out with another oil? Like coconut oil? I use coconut oil and beezwax to make my board butter so i have an abundance. I wanted to use what I have on hand if possible
Sure you can use any mixture you want. People use all different types of oils and different types of waxes. Just be warned with coconut oil it takes a long time to polymerize and will often feel oily for weeks or months.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Got it! I'll stick to the linseed oil then. Thank you so much for the response and the info. Your channel has helped me out so much as a woodworker!
I've just received some Bees wax that I ordered from a local bee keeper to make some polish up - I will be following your recipe. (Seeing as I'm over in England I figured the shipping cost of buying yours would be prohibitive!).
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I will be trying it using a old cast iron 'glue pot' that I have restored using electrolysis, and that will be on top of our log burner, so I will need to keep a close eye on temperatures. If all else fails I will have to stump up the money and order some from you!
Unless you have a beekeeper friend you'll pay more for wax than for honey. Also I'm told you want to warm the wax at the lowest possible temperature. Cooling from a high temp makes a harder wax.
bit late after the making of the video, but I made my own hardwax with linseed oil & beeswax (would have bought yours, but shipping it to Europe seems a bit over the top), but when I put it on my tools, it sort of seems to attract dust and stuff. Am I putting it on too thick (or not rubbing it out enough) or did I do something wrong in making it?
Hopefully you will reply on an old video. Will store bought Boiled Linseed oil work for this recipe? Love all your videos and they are helping me build my workshop!
Would I be able to substitute paraffin for the beeswax? I have a few slabs of gulf paraffin, boiled linseed & mineral spirits. Would this work or would the end product be to hard to buff as a paste wax?
where did you get that can for your wax? Also what purpose does the mineral spirit serve in your wax creme? I ask because I've see DIY recipes for wax creme that just uses wax, coconut oil and some other oils.( I'm trying to save a buck or 2 if I can) thx again for this video♥☻☺ I really enjoy watching this video double time. In fact the next time you make these videos if you can say the work puck🐔🐥🐔🐥 ALOT... it would be super entertaining. 🐔🐥🐔🐥You did a FEW times this video.. but many pucks in a row often makes my memory retention GREAT!!! 🐔🐔
The mineral spirits makes the wax softer and easier to apply. It then will evaporate them away leaving the hardened wax behind. It's not necessary but it makes it easier to apply.
hi . nice video. i used parrafin wax ( candles) and coconut oil to make a hard paste wax in a 2:1 ration like you instructed , but the resulting paste wax came out crumbly ( when i tried to apply it ) . should i increase the ratio of parrafin wax to the oil and repeat ?Thanks
Not that I'm aware of. There's so much other stuff in it that it's not really viable for human consumption but I'm sure if we thought about it long enough there would be some use for it.
Thank you James. A needed topic. A note, linseed oils of store bought types. Boiled Linseed Oil is not boiled, but treated with a chemical, thereby it's not to be confused with the real thing, yours. Where in Hawaii could I find pure Linseed oil is anyone's guess.
I wonder if you could get raw oil there. I know they had both "boiled" and raw in Tonga, but they definitely don't have the same laws as the US does though. And I think the name stuck around from when it USED to be boiled. And now they just call it boiled when they put a chemical in it to do the same job. Much like the British call flashlights "torches," even though the ONLY similarly is that they both produce light.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo hey james, great video, thank you for sharing. ive been using polymerized oil for years, but it isnt cheap stuff. i'm thinking about trying your slowcooker method to make my own. can you tell me if you separate the fats out of your flax oil before you put it in the slow cooker, or do you not bother with that step? also, how long do you cook it? on high or low?
If you want it send out so that you can smear it onto the surface the mineral spirits will allow you to do that. Without the mineral spirits it is much harder and you generally have to keep it up to get it to work into the wood.
Yes. It has a lot of nice turning aspects. It's a great wood for hand tools and carving as well. And all around very simple easy wood to work with. depending upon where on the tree it may also have a decent amount of figure to it.
Wow I just went and checked out the prices and your cheaper than store bought wax. Next time I need some you will have my order I can promise that!! Keep up the awesome work James!
As always james sir I spend couple hours each day just watching your videos lots of information and fun to watch can I ask when is the next 1 tool build sir realy like watching them
Hi so I watched this. Do you think the tried and true danish oil old work here? The company told me that they use a different kind of linseed oil in their original finish which is basically a thin paste wax?
I think you have answered a question I have had since the early 80’s. In high school woodworking, we used a soft wax that smelt like turpentine and looked like bees wax. I do believe it was essentially like your soft wax. I’m tempted to make my own now, but am more likely to buy yours, if it can be shipped international, and our Border Control doesn’t consider it a biohazard (Australia)
I live in Indonesia, we cannot get raw linseed oil, can I use boiled linseed oil for the first hard wax? I need it for rust prevention as the humidity here is insanely high. Thx
Hey James any downside to using tea light candle wax? Got a huge bag of these suckers and would like to put them to good use. Also what about using a store bought BLO? Trying to make a hard wax for planing and sawing
I wanted to buy some of your hard wax but unfortunately shipping to the UK is really expensive, so I'll see if I can get hold of some raw materials and follow your recipe instead! Thanks for the info
@@WoodByWrightHowTo around $7 shipping to UK isn't that bad to be fair James it would cost alot more in gas and electricity to make it yourself sir great video
I hope you might be able to help...but I made this board recipe and it seemed to have gone rancid. Did I do something wrong? Over a little bit of time it has a pungent smell.
Why don't you send me an email and we can hash it out. jameswright@woodbywright.com I don't always see responses on here. They tend to get buried quickly. First I would ask which recipe you're using. Second I ask where did you get your supplies and third I would ask how long did it take for the smell to start. most linseed oils are good to sit on the shelf for a year or two without any problem. Especially if they're kept in an airtight container.
Great video! One question: Why do you use raw linseed oil for the hard wax and the boiled for the soft wax? I assume there is a reason since you mentioned that you go through the trouble of boiling it yourself. Is it that the boiled penetrates wood better?
The hard wax I use for two lubrication and rust prevention. In that case I would rather the oil stay liquid and softer longer. The boiled linseed oil will polymerize in a day or two. And that's what you want on wood finishes. So that's what I use in the soft wax that gets used for finishing projects.
Cleaning can be difficult. I just bought cheap ones for 5 bucks at the resale store and dedicated them to the process. But if you were really careful with it, you can clean it out. If you heat it up until it melts you can wipe it out with a rag and then theoretically what dishwasher should be able to heat it up enough to clean out everything leftover.
I find the cookware almost impossible to clean after cooking paste wax, what do you do to get rid of cold wax residue? Also I have seen rust in a few wax containers when they are metallic, how do you avoid that? Thanks in advance! p.s. I now use a non siccative oil after having unused soft wax that went too dry.
I have dedicated pots for it. You can get old crock pots at the resale store for a couple bucks and never have to clean them. I have never had rust in any of my cans before. Not sure what would cause that as it is usually used as a rust preventor. Sounds like the mix is too base. That might cause it.
Could you replace the mineral spirits with orange solvent in the soft paste wax recipe to make it "food safe" (ie for toys possibly boards) I would you make one from a raw linseed oil? I plan on making my own boiled linseed oil, is tung oil a valid option? Thanks
The how to make sense. Its the why I'm not clear on. Do you use a Beeswax & Linseed oil mix to save time from putting on Linseed Oil and then Beeswax or is there another reason for using a mix? Thanks
It does not save time or money. But some people like the enjoyment of making things from scratch. For me I sell it. The other reason people might make it is so they know what exactly is in it.
Perfect wax works well. It is a much harder wax and that has benefits and drawbacks. It usually means you have to use a little bit more thinner. Paint thinner will work but it's a little bit more caustic.
Also, would a lipstick holder be a good container for this sort of thing, or would a roll on deodorant holder be a better size? If I can get hold of some local apiaiaiaiaiairists, I'd like to experiment.
I have tried finding a canister like that but have not found one economical enough yet. i know Rob Cosman uses a glue stick canister. If I were to do them one off I could use old ones.
ive gotten a nice waxed surface by letting the wood sit in the sun and getting really hot then applying the wax and letting it sit for a while then letting it cool and then buffing it out. I tell myself the heat helps the wax penetrate, but idk, it might be the placebo syndrome
That's actually a pretty decent method. A lot of people use a heat gun to work it down into the wood. The old-fashioned way is to use a friction polisher.
Most of the time just by eyeball. It really doesn't matter that much. Initially testing them all I used a scale to weigh them but now I just eyeball how much I put in so I guess now it's by volume lol.
As a beekeeper and woodworker, I put my cappings and such in an old tube sock then place it in the water. The wax that comes out of the sock is almost clean. The added bonus is the chopped up sock makes a good fire starter.
that's a great idea. I was using sections old cotton sheets over a strainer but inefficient as heat isn't maintained as you pour it. But your method, the wax is under constant heat.
Waterproof socks!
Sadly my workshop is outside and pretty much all tools are staying outside. I made some with beewax pellets and vegetable oil. Isn't perfect but will prevent a lot of rusting especially for my chisels.
I am using your hard wax recipe for waxing my plane soles. I had an idea to pour it into a clean and empty twist up refillable deodorant container - should be less messy to handle :)
Did this work? I'm very curious
@@nickgardner1705 worked very well - a couple of things worth noting: 1) I used Jojoba oil instead of linseed (what I had on hand). 2) bees wax melts at around 70C or 160F. I recommend monitoring the temperature and pouring the wax at slightly above that. the first pour I did the wax was way to hot - it melted the plastic of the container and made a smelly mess. the second one I made sure the wax was much cooler (under 200F) and I pored it. works amazing. I was using my No. 8, then added some wax to the sole - it shot forward so fast I almost lost control :) also, keep a bowl of cold water with ice at hand
@@AssafOppenheimer right on! Thanks for the tips :)
Damn I just saw your comment after I made the recipe in a tin jar. I should try it this way next time
Excellent idea thanks for sharing that would work well
Wow - the hard wax blend is incredibly useful. Game-changer thanks for sharing the ratio
Thanks. My pleasure!
If you want to filter raw dirty wax in ONE GO, here's what we do with our wax (we keep bees):
1. Find a metal pot or tray that fits into your oven
2. It needs to be deep enough to hold some water in it and hold some kind of a metal strainer - it doesn't matter if it's fine or not
3. Put a few inches of water into the pot, put the strainer on it, put 2 layers of kitchen towels across the whole strainer and put the wax onto that
4. Put everything into the oven and set it to 155-160F (65-70C) and check periodically if there's any wax left in the strainer.
5. When all the raw wax is gone, turn off the oven and let everything cool down
The wax slowly melts and runs through the towels, dripping into the water below. All the impurities and stuff are left on the towels in the strainer. When you let everything cool, the wax in the water solidifes into a puck and floats on top of the water, but it's clean, all that dirt and stuff is on the towels. You just throw it away and voila, a pot full of nice clean wax.
The 155-160F temperature is the melting point of beeswax, when it flows nicely, cause it needs to get thin in order to go through the towels. Beeswax is flammable and it does not boil, just gets hotter and hotter and then ignites, but don't worry - the flashpoint of beeswax is 400F (204C), so you're nowhere near that. Also, the 155-160F range won't damage or discolor the wax, it won't ruin it.
When I first tried this, I wasn't expecting results, really, I thought I was going to get a bunch of hardener wax towel mess, so it was pretty much a surprise when it worked. I've been using this method every since cause it removed any neccessity for cheese cloths, rags, multiple meltings and a bunch of water I used to use, and - it comes out yellow and clean.
Hope this helps, thanks James for making this video!
Well that is an interesting idea! I will have to give that a try next time.
I tried this method a while back, but maybe I had slightly higher temperature as my wax was duller in colour and not as bright yellow when I have done it with water. Will have to try again to see, although I'm thinking of using a solar melter as well to see how that goes.
Can you clean the towels after or are they rekt?
@@Obscurity202I think by "kitchen towels", they mean the paper/tissue ones. So they are thrown out. Or become firelighters.
ok thanks ! @@samuelmellars7855
Great recipes! Another I like to use is a mix of roughly 3 parts beeswax to 1 part USP grade mineral oil. I adjust it until a sample of the cooled mix is like a thick grease or old Johnson's paste wax. At that point it can be easily massaged by hand into the wood. It's a great idea for food contact wood items like cutting boards, spoons, spatulas and salad bowls. And unlike the tung or other nut oils I used to use the beeswax and mineral oil is not a strong allergen in case someone in the family or a visitor is allergic to nuts. The mixture is surprisingly tolerant of being washed. But make at a dunk, wipe, rinse, dry sort of deal as any long term soaking will obviously soak into the wood after a while. So yeah. Beeswax. It's good for more than just in the shop.
I use bees wax with pine turpentine and works very well. Also it depends from the postions of these two elmements to be hard or very soft. I will try also your recipe. Thanks for the video and ideas
I was literally about to say "you didn't do 'wax on, wax off'!, but you beat me to it!
But you one upped that by starting a new channel!
Lol there were too many good wax jokes I had to call it back on this one.
Just ordered the soft wax, love that it is super natural product. Thanks!
thanks man. I will get it in the mail in the morning!
Thanks for the good instructions, James! I ordered some pure bees wax and cold pressed linseed oil from a local health shop right away, will be making my own hard wax as soon as that order comes in!
Sweet. Have fun. It's nice when you get your own mix down.
I just ordered one of each. Keep up the awesome work. Pleasure to support you and your channel.
Much appreciated. I will keep them coming!
Just an idea, have you thought about using a cheese slicer to clean the entire top one time? You could make a large enough one to clean it in one swoop. I made one for cutting clay. :)
First time I tried this the worst part was cleaning the pot. Second time I tried I boiled water and put the wax in one of those metal pie pans and set it on top of the boiling water pot. Worked great and clean up was easy peasy.
right on. that is why I have dedicated pots for it.
Awesome James! I will be copying these into my shop recipes, when I feel like waxing poetic... ;)
Try a paint scraper to remove the gunk from the puck
Ordered one of each. I Enjoy your videos.
thanks Greg that means a lot!
Who else clicked because they read " How to make pasta from scratch"?
Great video. Ive been making my own for a while now as well. Just like you said, i found a formula that works best for me 👍
please share
You could also put the cheese cloth underneath the Puck before you boil it.
oooooooooh, that idea is a winner!
Came to learn about wax, learned the word Apiary.
that is a good one
i believe that means new england bees only like their wax to finish furniture in the ape cod style... *smhams*
👍😎🤣Great Job!!! Very Cool!!! Thank You Sir For Sharing!!!
Thanks, I’m going to order some of your 2:1 hard wax with raw linseed oil, looks useful, and plain beeswax is way too hard.
FYI, I made my own soft wax following an old “colonial” recipe I found online, and it is basically 1:1:1, (or in your example 2:2:2) with beeswax, BLO, and mineral spirits in equal parts.
I’m not sure what the extra half measure of mineral spirits does to the hardness compared to your recipe, whether it makes it harder or softer (?) but it seems to work ok on my wood projects. Thanks. 👍
Also works great on screws and drill bits, especially in hardwoods. And when I worked in the commercial glazing business (long, long time ago) we always used beeswax when cutting or drilling aluminum.
So true.
I need to get two cans , but I can’t find the place to order
If you crush the puck before heating it up for the secont time you"ll use less energy and time to melt it again. If you manage to doubble the surfvavae area it will melt in half the time so I imagine only 4 good centre brakes should do it.
Found you suggested through a Reddit post! Digging up old content and happy to see you’re still selling these! Instant customer! Thank you!!!
This is exactly what I needed! Some time ago, I got 2 blocks of bee’s wax for lubricating my planes and that does not work at all because the wax is way too hard. As is so often the case, I thought this was a good idea at the time. Oh, well. We’re traveling right now, but first thing I’m gonna try when I get home is to make the hard wax according to this recipe! Looking forward to it!
I did this yesterday. Took like 10 minutes for the wax to dissolve or melt, plus another 1-2 hours for it to cool down again after the pour. OMG, this stuff is sooo good and so so much better than the obvious crap I used to use. Thank you so much!
Paint strainers for 5 gallon buckets cost less and do a better job than cheese cloth. A bee keeper.
That is a great idea!
thanks for sharing that
I don't know where is my mistake, but my bees hard wax stops the plane instead to move smooth and faster. I will try to melt candle and mix it with liquid paraffine. I will share what will happen.
I made few ratios:
- only candle - very hard to apply to the sole and can't feel glide differences .
- 1:4, 1part liquid paraffin with 4 parts melted candle - the mixture stays hard like candle and feels little bit oily. Better apply to the sole than the pure candle, but still not good gliding.
- 1:3 - the mixture stays hard and feels more oily in the hand. Good apply to the sole, little bit better gliding.
- 1:2 - the mixture stays hard again and feel very oily in the hand. Very good apply to the sole, very good gliding.
- 1:1 - the mixture stays hard at first look, feel very very oily and feels like starts to melt in the hand. Apply to sole very easy and glide like 1:2 mixture.
1:2 think is the best mix for me. Twist cans from paper glue were filled, so the wax will stay clean and easy to use. I'm pretty sure Rob Cosman's wax is on the same base. Not so much variants for wax i think. The bees wax i will use for wood protection, just doesn't work for me as lubricant.
Happy planing guys! :)
Thanks so much for the "buy it if you want, make it if you want" approach. Totally the opposite of the "this is secretly an advert thinly disguised as a tutorial" approach. And with wax from a pal with bees and oil from a pal with a press, I never felt less advertised-to!
Then you should try bril-cream. A little dab will do ya. Now you have been advertised to
I made few ratios:
- only candle - very hard to apply to the sole and can't feel glide differences .
- 1:4, 1part liquid paraffin with 4 parts melted candle - the mixture stays hard like candle and feels little bit oily. Better apply to the sole than the pure candle, but still not good gliding.
- 1:3 - the mixture stays hard and feels more oily in the hand. Good apply to the sole, little bit better gliding.
- 1:2 - the mixture stays hard again and feel very oily in the hand. Very good apply to the sole, very good gliding.
- 1:1 - the mixture stays hard at first look, feel very very oily and feels like starts to melt in the hand. Apply to sole very easy and glide like 1:2 mixture.
1:2 think is the best mix for me. Twist cans from paper glue were filled, so the wax will stay clean and easy to use. I'm pretty sure Rob Cosman's wax is on the same base. Not so much variants for wax i think. The bees wax i will use for wood protection, just doesn't work for me as lubricant.
Happy planing guys! :)
Very nice tutorial video, thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video. Liked and subscribed. I also ordered both of your waxes from your site.
Are your measurements by weight or volume. I saw you weighed the paste wax but the liquid ingredients seemed to be by volume.
I generally do by weight. but eather will work fine I am not precise enough for that to make a difference.
That was a very informative video. You don’t have any concerns with handling mineral spirits without gloves? Am I misinformed about this chemical?
I don't go dipping my hands in it but splashing here and there isn't going to cause a problem.
Where is Mr Miagee?
I of course made a mess in the kitchen. Thankfully my wife and I don't share a kitchen. We'll see how it goes. I made the harder version,and made it into this wafers, because that's what I had. Summers here are upper 90s and low 100s daily, so I might have to melt it into a bigger chunk. Vamos a ver. Thanks for the instructions. I'll do better next time.
"Here comb the wax jokes"
The mineral spirits, That's what gives you the soft wax,,
Did you wax humorous? As far as lubing saws and planes most of the old Dutchmen here in Pa used to use nar soap lol
Lol thanks. Soap is a good one. A lot of the English tradition used tallow.
Ah, i had the old video before. THIS one is my go-to-video on waxes. Now to actually make the softwax. 😅
Pretty interesting, James!!! Thanks for all the tips! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Does anyone know if you can use Gamsol Refined Linseed Oil for this? I have left over from oil painting and was wondering if it'll work.
Also if I can use Paint Thinner since Mineral Spirit is banned here in CA😬
Yes and yes. th-cam.com/video/c2ryLlV-vuU/w-d-xo.html
@Wood By Wright How To thank you James, wasn't sure if I had asked this question before but as always appreciate the reply🙏
I love your instructional video:. It is simply wonderful to hear international traits coined into the narrative. Thank you so much for sharing this fabulous data. Best of luck.
Awesome video as usual. I think I’ll just keep buying from you to support the channel. My wife was listening and cracked up at the Brazilian wax joke. 😂😂😂😂😂😂
LOL thanks man! you know yuo have a good woman when she is willing to laugh at that joke.
Sounds like a great organic product I need to make. What is a good source for the tins?
I buy mine on Amazon or U-line.
When I process my wax from honey extraction, I typically pour into ice cube trays after my final cleaning. just makes it WAY easier to get the right amount of wax you need instead of trying to break apart a big block of wax......which can be a real challenge....and a mess. OH.....just a warning.....DO NOT use your wife's favorite cookware to process the wax.......go to a thrift store and buy a cheap pot to do your wax processing in....you will thank me later. lol
Right on. I have silicone molds I normally use. I have more crock pots then my wife. Lol
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Smart man......or one who learned the hard way. lol
Unfortunately for the video the silicone molds were in use as I use them as well to mold the hard wax. I just messed up my timing and it ended up hardening in the bucket.
Hi James do you sell the finish that's in like oil form for like dipping projects in sir
The wax comes in a small tin.
why white spirit needs to be used in soft wax? what is the idea behind? Assume it is also very smelly?
the Spirits thin it out so you can spread it easer. then they evaporate leaving just the wax and oil. you can use whatever you want.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks
Hello, what are white spirits?
Is the hard wax good for rust prevention on power tool table tops? I have a 10" band saw and a bench top drill press, both with cast iron platforms. Right now I'm using 3 in 1 oil. It works, but I have to reapply it often. The tools are under a an awning outside (one day I'll have a climate controlled workshop, one day). I'm just wondering if the wax will last longer. Thanks! FYI, I just subscribed.
That is what I use on my metal tops.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Awesome, which one? The soft or hard? I’m going to order a tin.
I use the hard.
Could you add a few coats of shellac after the finishing wax, or would the wax prevent the shellac from adhering?
The wax should go on after the shellac. Wax isn't really a finish by itself. It fills the pores on top of wax and smooth out the finish.
Could the linseed oil be subbed out with another oil? Like coconut oil? I use coconut oil and beezwax to make my board butter so i have an abundance. I wanted to use what I have on hand if possible
Sure you can use any mixture you want. People use all different types of oils and different types of waxes. Just be warned with coconut oil it takes a long time to polymerize and will often feel oily for weeks or months.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Got it! I'll stick to the linseed oil then. Thank you so much for the response and the info. Your channel has helped me out so much as a woodworker!
Hello, can i put some kind of charcoal or something like that to add a darker color on my paste wax?
Sure. People used all kinds of different dies and things to make it darker
I've just received some Bees wax that I ordered from a local bee keeper to make some polish up - I will be following your recipe. (Seeing as I'm over in England I figured the shipping cost of buying yours would be prohibitive!).
Sounds like fun. Yes. Shipping a can of wax over there would cost more than the wax itself. But I have done it a few times lol
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I will be trying it using a old cast iron 'glue pot' that I have restored using electrolysis, and that will be on top of our log burner, so I will need to keep a close eye on temperatures.
If all else fails I will have to stump up the money and order some from you!
Unless you have a beekeeper friend you'll pay more for wax than for honey. Also I'm told you want to warm the wax at the lowest possible temperature. Cooling from a high temp makes a harder wax.
「あなたの動画はとても良いですし、メッセージがた
ありがとうございました
👌👌👌
Have you tried adding a bit of carnauba wax to the mix to achieve a harder wax?? Love your videos
oh ya. you can mix in most any wax. I have a friend that uses industrial hard waxes that harden to be incredibly tough.
bit late after the making of the video, but I made my own hardwax with linseed oil & beeswax (would have bought yours, but shipping it to Europe seems a bit over the top), but when I put it on my tools, it sort of seems to attract dust and stuff. Am I putting it on too thick (or not rubbing it out enough) or did I do something wrong in making it?
Did I just catch you waxing philosphical? I wonder then if this was a BEE video? Gotta go...Hear my honey calling.
Lol nice man thanks.
Hopefully you will reply on an old video. Will store bought Boiled Linseed oil work for this recipe? Love all your videos and they are helping me build my workshop!
Sure. I would just not use it in any food tool applications
Would I be able to substitute paraffin for the beeswax? I have a few slabs of gulf paraffin, boiled linseed & mineral spirits. Would this work or would the end product be to hard to buff as a paste wax?
It works well. You'll get a slightly harder wax. So if you want it to be softer you'll probably need to mix in a little bit more oil.
Comment down below.
where did you get that can for your wax? Also what purpose does the mineral spirit serve in your wax creme? I ask because I've see DIY recipes for wax creme that just uses wax, coconut oil and some other oils.( I'm trying to save a buck or 2 if I can) thx again for this video♥☻☺
I really enjoy watching this video double time. In fact the next time you make these videos if you can say the work puck🐔🐥🐔🐥 ALOT... it would be super entertaining. 🐔🐥🐔🐥You did a FEW times this video.. but many pucks in a row often makes my memory retention GREAT!!! 🐔🐔
The mineral spirits makes the wax softer and easier to apply. It then will evaporate them away leaving the hardened wax behind. It's not necessary but it makes it easier to apply.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo ahhh!!! ♥☻☺
Can I use rubbing alcohol instead?
thank you * puck puck puck!! *** 🤣😆😂
🐔🐥🐔🐥🐔🐥🐔🐥
hi . nice video. i used parrafin wax ( candles) and coconut oil to make a hard paste wax in a 2:1 ration like you instructed , but the resulting paste wax came out crumbly ( when i tried to apply it ) . should i increase the ratio of parrafin wax to the oil and repeat ?Thanks
coconut oil is an odd one as it is most often solid at room temperature a it tends to make the was brittle. Increasing the wax will help.
Can you use the honey water for anything when you're rendering? As opposed to feeding it to the drain monsters
Not that I'm aware of. There's so much other stuff in it that it's not really viable for human consumption but I'm sure if we thought about it long enough there would be some use for it.
thanks @@WoodByWrightHowTo
Use soft wax for table saw top? I use Johnston's past wax.
that is good stuff for it.
Question: I am looking for the old kind of wax they used on terrazo floors... can this be used on floors to seal and polish?
yes. though that would have mixed in a bit of protectant such as varnish or shellac.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you!
Thank you James. A needed topic. A note, linseed oils of store bought types. Boiled Linseed Oil is not boiled, but treated with a chemical, thereby it's not to be confused with the real thing, yours. Where in Hawaii could I find pure Linseed oil is anyone's guess.
I wonder if you could get raw oil there. I know they had both "boiled" and raw in Tonga, but they definitely don't have the same laws as the US does though.
And I think the name stuck around from when it USED to be boiled. And now they just call it boiled when they put a chemical in it to do the same job. Much like the British call flashlights "torches," even though the ONLY similarly is that they both produce light.
Was so excited when I woke up and realized it was Saturday and knowed that wood by wright had a video out!!!!
Thanks man. I aim to please!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo hey james, great video, thank you for sharing. ive been using polymerized oil for years, but it isnt cheap stuff. i'm thinking about trying your slowcooker method to make my own. can you tell me if you separate the fats out of your flax oil before you put it in the slow cooker, or do you not bother with that step? also, how long do you cook it? on high or low?
If you only have regular BLO, do you still need mineral spirits for the soft wax?
If you want it send out so that you can smear it onto the surface the mineral spirits will allow you to do that. Without the mineral spirits it is much harder and you generally have to keep it up to get it to work into the wood.
Have you ever worked with Willow? I've been gifted a load and note it's properties lend towards turning, just wondered if you'd experienced it at all?
Yes. It has a lot of nice turning aspects. It's a great wood for hand tools and carving as well. And all around very simple easy wood to work with. depending upon where on the tree it may also have a decent amount of figure to it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Amazing, thank you so much!
Wow I just went and checked out the prices and your cheaper than store bought wax. Next time I need some you will have my order I can promise that!! Keep up the awesome work James!
Thanks. I try to keep it affordable whenever possible.
Is this food safe? Can I use it on wooden kitchen utensils?
Thx for the video
I use it on my wooden kitchen utensils. but food safe is a personal choice. different people draw the line in different places.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo
Thx for quick reply
Can this be used on food safe woods james plz
I do. but what is food safe is a personal choice not a black and white thing. everyone draws the ling in s different place.
As always james sir I spend couple hours each day just watching your videos lots of information and fun to watch can I ask when is the next 1 tool build sir realy like watching them
Hi so I watched this. Do you think the tried and true danish oil old work here? The company told me that they use a different kind of linseed oil in their original finish which is basically a thin paste wax?
Yes their Danish oil is actually BLO. it is one thing I hate is the name is misleading.
nice video
I think you have answered a question I have had since the early 80’s. In high school woodworking, we used a soft wax that smelt like turpentine and looked like bees wax. I do believe it was essentially like your soft wax. I’m tempted to make my own now, but am more likely to buy yours, if it can be shipped international, and our Border Control doesn’t consider it a biohazard (Australia)
I have shipped to down under before, but the shipping price is almost twice the price of the product. if not more.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo But if it's a good product that lasts years, it's worth it.
Hello how are you doing great video like always how can you dark in the oil wax for different colors ok thanks have a great day take care
You can add wood dye for oil-based stains.
I live in Indonesia, we cannot get raw linseed oil, can I use boiled linseed oil for the first hard wax? I need it for rust prevention as the humidity here is insanely high. Thx
sure. just realize it will polymerize on the outside much faster and you will get a skin on top of the wax.
Thanks for all the tips! I made 4 -4oz cans. and 2 of them had a white crystallizing look when it cured. Any ideas what i did wrong? Thanks from MN
Not sure. Feel free to email me some pictures.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks, I dont see an email to send a few pictures. I'm guessing its private.
Hey James any downside to using tea light candle wax? Got a huge bag of these suckers and would like to put them to good use. Also what about using a store bought BLO? Trying to make a hard wax for planing and sawing
Super. It is parifin wax works great. Store bought works fine but I would not apply it with bare hands.
Wood By Wright How 2 thanks James!! Planning on filling some chapstick tubes with it so no worries about hand contact.
I wanted to buy some of your hard wax but unfortunately shipping to the UK is really expensive, so I'll see if I can get hold of some raw materials and follow your recipe instead! Thanks for the info
so true. usually the shipping is way more then the product! no fun!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo around $7 shipping to UK isn't that bad to be fair James it would cost alot more in gas and electricity to make it yourself sir great video
I hope you might be able to help...but I made this board recipe and it seemed to have gone rancid. Did I do something wrong? Over a little bit of time it has a pungent smell.
Why don't you send me an email and we can hash it out. jameswright@woodbywright.com I don't always see responses on here. They tend to get buried quickly. First I would ask which recipe you're using. Second I ask where did you get your supplies and third I would ask how long did it take for the smell to start. most linseed oils are good to sit on the shelf for a year or two without any problem. Especially if they're kept in an airtight container.
Great video!
One question: Why do you use raw linseed oil for the hard wax and the boiled for the soft wax? I assume there is a reason since you mentioned that you go through the trouble of boiling it yourself. Is it that the boiled penetrates wood better?
The hard wax I use for two lubrication and rust prevention. In that case I would rather the oil stay liquid and softer longer. The boiled linseed oil will polymerize in a day or two. And that's what you want on wood finishes. So that's what I use in the soft wax that gets used for finishing projects.
Is the linseed oil degummed so the resulting paste wax will be less prone to molding?
I don't do that for the hard wax. But if I were to use it for a finish I would use the home made BLO that has no issue with mold.
How do you clean the pots and pans after making the wax? After They're cleaned, are they safe to use for food?
Cleaning can be difficult. I just bought cheap ones for 5 bucks at the resale store and dedicated them to the process. But if you were really careful with it, you can clean it out. If you heat it up until it melts you can wipe it out with a rag and then theoretically what dishwasher should be able to heat it up enough to clean out everything leftover.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Does that apply to store bought BLO as well?
I find the cookware almost impossible to clean after cooking paste wax, what do you do to get rid of cold wax residue? Also I have seen rust in a few wax containers when they are metallic, how do you avoid that? Thanks in advance! p.s. I now use a non siccative oil after having unused soft wax that went too dry.
I have dedicated pots for it. You can get old crock pots at the resale store for a couple bucks and never have to clean them. I have never had rust in any of my cans before. Not sure what would cause that as it is usually used as a rust preventor. Sounds like the mix is too base. That might cause it.
Could you replace the mineral spirits with orange solvent in the soft paste wax recipe to make it "food safe" (ie for toys possibly boards) I would you make one from a raw linseed oil? I plan on making my own boiled linseed oil, is tung oil a valid option? Thanks
Yes and yes. you can make it any way you like. raw linseed oil works fine too it just takes longer to fully polymerize.
This wax looks so good! I would love a dark antiquing wax too.....do you know if a colourant can be added to your recipe?
Sure. I have seen several people add dyes and stains to it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo cool thanks!
Those tins look really handy! Do you mind sharing where you got them?
I ordered them through Uline. They have them in all sorts of sizes and colors.
Is the hard wax (the 2:1 ratio) good for waterproofing canvas (like otterwax)?
that is probably about the mix I would use. it would take a bit to rub that in but with a little heat that would do quite well.
The how to make sense. Its the why I'm not clear on. Do you use a Beeswax & Linseed oil mix to save time from putting on Linseed Oil and then Beeswax or is there another reason for using a mix? Thanks
It does not save time or money. But some people like the enjoyment of making things from scratch. For me I sell it. The other reason people might make it is so they know what exactly is in it.
If I do want a gloss finish, what are the ratios?
Is it hot drinks proof ?
it depends on the finish under it. Paste wax is not intended to be the finish but the conditioner on top.
Thank you for sharing your wax mix recipe, really good stuff 👍
My pleasure!
Can I use parafin wax and paint thinner? I need to buy some linseed oil. Or do you recommend beeswax for its smell.
Perfect wax works well. It is a much harder wax and that has benefits and drawbacks. It usually means you have to use a little bit more thinner. Paint thinner will work but it's a little bit more caustic.
Mmmmm... bits of bees
I love your cooking episodes
Also, would a lipstick holder be a good container for this sort of thing, or would a roll on deodorant holder be a better size? If I can get hold of some local apiaiaiaiaiairists, I'd like to experiment.
I have tried finding a canister like that but have not found one economical enough yet. i know Rob Cosman uses a glue stick canister. If I were to do them one off I could use old ones.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo are you thinking what I'm thinking? We could break into Rob Cosman's shop....
ive gotten a nice waxed surface by letting the wood sit in the sun and getting really hot then applying the wax and letting it sit for a while then letting it cool and then buffing it out. I tell myself the heat helps the wax penetrate, but idk, it might be the placebo syndrome
That's actually a pretty decent method. A lot of people use a heat gun to work it down into the wood. The old-fashioned way is to use a friction polisher.
Wood By Wright How 2 ok well good to know im not tricking myself!
Are your proportions by volume or weight? I noticed at 2:19 you were weighing the wax before putting in your melting pot.
Most of the time just by eyeball. It really doesn't matter that much. Initially testing them all I used a scale to weigh them but now I just eyeball how much I put in so I guess now it's by volume lol.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks! When I've mixed up waxes in the past I've always measured by volume so was surprised when I saw you using a scale.