Fantastic video. Another example of the good side of TH-cam for DIY education. Combined with MyRVWorks Schwintek guru guidance, your video completes the circle of knowledge. Your deep analysis of the system and using a horizontal jack for the brute push force in either direction is great. I like watching videos like this to further my understanding so if I encounter a similar failure of my system I will have a lot less anxiety in solving the problem. I have one question, will the JBweld allow extraction of the motor set screw in the future? Thanks again for adding this video to the TH-cam Schwintek Knowledge library. cheers. Mike.
True. But not really pertenent to the repair done. Maybe in my case those rollers don't turn as well as they should. Regardless, the resistance of the box rubbing against the seals, the roller resistance with the box weight on it, the friction of the rack gears meshing with the pinion all added to the torque needed to rotate the gear motor add up to a huge force that needs to be overcome. Hence the purpose of the video.
First try to reset the controller. Then check Fuses. If still an issue BE SURE TO DISCONNECT the motors FROM the controller and you should be and to move them on the slide much easier than what your running into here!! Once in position RECONNECT the motors to the controller even if it's not working because this acts as the "break" in the system which is half the battle you are running into.
Thanks for your input. Just out of curiosity, did you watch the video? I realize it is rather long, but with all due respect, your comments would suggest that you may not have. Resetting the controller is not going to help with moving the slide or fixing a bad motor. Similarly, checking fuses won’t move the slide or fix the motor. During the troubleshooting techniques as outlined by Darren at MyRVWorks the motor was identified as the issue so this video is about how to get the slide moved out and replacing the motor, not troubleshooting controllers or fuses. And finally, as outlined in the video, the motor was indeed disconnected for the operation of moving the slide out to make the motor repair so there was no “break” working against me.
@@bryanwelsh1773 Man, I was worried I will have to do this. My motor isn't getting power and after inspecting there is one black wire cut just at the motor. I could reconnect the wire if I could get to the motor, but I can't! This is mindblowing that it's the only option. RV manufacturing surprises me every day.
@@AdventurePaddle Yah, it is crazy. Unfortunately it is the "state of the art" for this type of slide which is used on virtually every manufacturer. In addition to the pin removal, it is super bad when the inside access is blocked by some wall configuration. I was lucky on mine in that I could easily get to the motor (once the pin was removed).
To keep the slide motors synchronized, hold the extend/retract button down for a few seconds after the slide gets to the fully out or in positions. This allows the motors to "amp out" and the slide controller will then know they are both all the way in or out.
Yes, this is how that is done. As noted in my video, there is lots of information on TH-cam on how to synch the slide. I was focusing on the issue of not being able to replace the motor without manually forcing the slide to move. Which does not appear to be covered anywhere, at least I didn't find it.
Fantastic video. Another example of the good side of TH-cam for DIY education. Combined with MyRVWorks Schwintek guru guidance, your video completes the circle of knowledge. Your deep analysis of the system and using a horizontal jack for the brute push force in either direction is great. I like watching videos like this to further my understanding so if I encounter a similar failure of my system I will have a lot less anxiety in solving the problem. I have one question, will the JBweld allow extraction of the motor set screw in the future? Thanks again for adding this video to the TH-cam Schwintek Knowledge library. cheers. Mike.
The weight of the slide box should not be borne on the slide system. There should be rollers underneath the box that supports the weight.
True. But not really pertenent to the repair done. Maybe in my case those rollers don't turn as well as they should. Regardless, the resistance of the box rubbing against the seals, the roller resistance with the box weight on it, the friction of the rack gears meshing with the pinion all added to the torque needed to rotate the gear motor add up to a huge force that needs to be overcome. Hence the purpose of the video.
First try to reset the controller. Then check Fuses. If still an issue BE SURE TO DISCONNECT the motors FROM the controller and you should be and to move them on the slide much easier than what your running into here!! Once in position RECONNECT the motors to the controller even if it's not working because this acts as the "break" in the system which is half the battle you are running into.
Thanks for your input. Just out of curiosity, did you watch the video? I realize it is rather long, but with all due respect, your comments would suggest that you may not have. Resetting the controller is not going to help with moving the slide or fixing a bad motor. Similarly, checking fuses won’t move the slide or fix the motor. During the troubleshooting techniques as outlined by Darren at MyRVWorks the motor was identified as the issue so this video is about how to get the slide moved out and replacing the motor, not troubleshooting controllers or fuses. And finally, as outlined in the video, the motor was indeed disconnected for the operation of moving the slide out to make the motor repair so there was no “break” working against me.
@@bryanwelsh1773 Man, I was worried I will have to do this. My motor isn't getting power and after inspecting there is one black wire cut just at the motor. I could reconnect the wire if I could get to the motor, but I can't! This is mindblowing that it's the only option. RV manufacturing surprises me every day.
@@AdventurePaddle Yah, it is crazy. Unfortunately it is the "state of the art" for this type of slide which is used on virtually every manufacturer. In addition to the pin removal, it is super bad when the inside access is blocked by some wall configuration. I was lucky on mine in that I could easily get to the motor (once the pin was removed).
To keep the slide motors synchronized, hold the extend/retract button down for a few seconds after the slide gets to the fully out or in positions. This allows the motors to "amp out" and the slide controller will then know they are both all the way in or out.
Yes, this is how that is done. As noted in my video, there is lots of information on TH-cam on how to synch the slide. I was focusing on the issue of not being able to replace the motor without manually forcing the slide to move. Which does not appear to be covered anywhere, at least I didn't find it.