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Thanks for your input. Just out of curiosity, did you watch the video? I realize it is rather long, but with all due respect, your comments would suggest that you may not have. Resetting the controller is not going to help with moving the slide or fixing a bad motor. Similarly, checking fuses won’t move the slide or fix the motor. During the troubleshooting techniques as outlined by Darren at MyRVWorks the motor was identified as the issue so this video is about how to get the slide moved out and replacing the motor, not troubleshooting controllers or fuses. And finally, as outlined in the video, the motor was indeed disconnected for the operation of moving the slide out to make the motor repair so there was no “break” working against me.

Yes. It is shown in the video being removed at the beginning and installed at the end of the other repair video referenced.

I didn't replace the upper chain. It stayed in the engine. If you are asking why I changed just the upper chain tensioner it was because it was worn out, cracked, and leaving black plastic bits in the oil pan so clearly needed replacing, and I figured I could do it without removing the engine. If you needed to replace the other (cam A) tensioner, then you need to disassemble the engine, which of course would be quite a chore.

@@bryanwelsh1773 Yeah. That's what I meant (tensioner). Thanks 👍🏻

@@yashsamant6090 Welcome. For what it's worth, the lower tensioner didn't look bad from the angle I could see it. It doesn't have the same form factor as the upper, which has quite a bend to it. So maybe not under as much wear and stress.

Thanks Gene! I would not have been able to fix it without the info I found on the cb750c.com site. Regarding your notes: 1. I agree regarding depth and have no idea why it would not work out. As noted in the video, I even used a power drill on it several times and no further chips were produced. And I contemplated pulling the insert out and trying again but decided against it. The top surface does need to be flat, however, the top of the insert has a quite wide flange on it which satisfies this IMO. Ideally, it should have been flush without a doubt. 2. It appears to me that the O-ring does not seat at the size change as stated, rather, it seats on the upper portion (larger) of the shaft and the jam nut. Making a modification of some kind is not an option as far as I can tell. I gave two options in the video, one to add a shim and the other to modify the bolt (and associated risks). The biggest thing I learned out of this repair is that the insert does not properly duplicate the form factor of the original design (a thread at the bottom of a bored hole, the bored hole being relief for the larger shank). The insert has a minimal amount of relief, so you have to account for it in some way. I think the animation I created is correct and shows this relationship, but I could be wrong too. BTW, I have no leaks. I really appreciate the feedback and hopefully people read the TH-cam comments (I know I do) as these kinds of clarifications and suggestions come up all the time. “Your mileage may vary”

I believe it is the air vent. In the video, my casing has been cleaned up but you can still see some dark color around it where oil had leaked out. Some leaking is normal I would think. If leaking a lot, maybe the disc cap has been damaged or perhaps the case is overfilled with oil. As I recall, the disc is loosely fitted to the tube that goes into the casing. This allows for air to get out but provides a seal to keep dirt and water from going in.

Thanks. It is not the original paint but they did a decent job on it. I bought it pretty much as you see it 15-20 years ago. Things have gone way crazy since then....

Glad you found it useful. I couldn't find one either at the time. So I made one!