I liked it. Nice job. But the video shows the hinge cover open; you haven't shown how to open the cover. Could you please guide me. I don't want to meddle with the screws without learning it fully. Will be happy if you show a video opening the hinge cover (or case, whatever)
OK Just did this and it worked. FOUR screws are all along the hinge: Two are visible on the inside of the hinge with screen opened. The other two: With the screen open, ROTATE THE SCREEN 90 degrees in any direction - you'll see the other two that are hidden along the hinge. I tested by jamming a toothpick tip under the black plastic part on the back of the tiny green circuit board. Left the jammed part in there, twisted the toothpick so it breaks, and used one tweezer side to push into place. Keep testing though, I ended up jamming two toothpick tips. It's janky but now it the picture rotates to the correct positions at each angle so IT"S FINE.
i should have discovered this 3 hours ago! i just came up with the same fix myself but i used the toothpick. it's working now. thanks for posting this...it's a widespread problem!
No worries! We read online about people being charged a lot to have this fixed by Canon. Probably quite a lucrative problem for them... I’m assuming the people disliking the video are camera repairers 😉 Glad it helped! My wife uploaded it 🙂
My switch was just dirty. I popped the board out from the plastic bracket and cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol from a cotton swap. That worked for me.
Hi again me... Yes, you don't need to wedge anything in there to fix this on a 700D - the screw holding the PCB to the mechanism was not tightened sufficiently during manufacture allowing it to slip up over time and many uses - simply loosen the screw using the same Japanese #000 and push down the PCB, keep it in place with another small flat headed screwdriver and then tighten the PCB screw until it is firm. Test and re-assemble, DONE.
I can't get this to work actually, it doesn't respond to when I push the sensor upwards with a pick. just seems finicky like its random movement that will make it flip
The WD-40 fix worked instantly....a small spray in the joint and rotated the screen back to front and front to back numerous times just to get it lubed up....worked like a charm on the first try! Thanks!!!
Silicon spray worked for me. I only pooped 2 screws out . As I could not see the other 2 ?./?? Still worked after swiveling the display a couple times to work in the silicone spray lube. 0:06
I have a Canon Rebel T4i and I had been having this problem for the longest time! I was reading through the comments in this video and someone suggested blowing air in the joint, no unscrewing no nothing. I tried just that, blew on it like an old cassette and my problem got fixed! Maybe for some its just a dust issue...? Give it a try.
IMHO it's just a matter of dust. No toothpick or creditcard needed. Just a firm blow through a straw and .... yes, my screen turned up and down and back and up and down and back and so on. But anyway thanks for showing the source of the issue.
I took mine a step further from blowing on it. I took a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol and cleaned the area. Removed the battery first of course. But now it flips flawlessly.
I had the same problem on my Canon 700D, guess what i sprayed WD-40 in the joint where the screen rotates and to my surprise the issue is fixed. I did not open the screws :)
🙏This saved me! While I opted to not fix the issue long-term, it allowed me to understand what was happening exactly. Because the issue stems from poor contact between the metal tab on the turning rod and the rotation sensor, once the screen is out and flipped, a slight nudge up and down on the screen will cause the proper contact to happen! Hope this helps someone else!
Hi guys, I just fixed the rotation. I just need to remove two piece of LCD hoder, spray just a few of WD40(or any other lubrification non conductor) and flip the LCD over and over, and that is it. Thanks sophpos1, you are the guys.
Thanks for this, and to the comments below who suggested WD-40. Mine has been flickering between orientations if the camera moved at all, very annoying. I opened it up, a sunglasses kit was the perfect size screwdriver. 2 screws on the inside hinge and 2 on the side of the flipped out monitor that were visible when its perpendicular (note: 2 are slightly longer so be sure to keep them separated), 2 small plastic hinge sections pop right off and back on when reassembling. Put a little WD-40 on the joint... and that alone did the trick for me. Just made sure to get even coverage and work it through by rotating a bunch. Instant solve.
Thanks a lot for your video. I repaired the Display of my Canon 70D within minutes. For those who have trouble opening the plastic cover over the hinge: Remove those four little screws and use a a sharp plastic tool to pry open the two halfs.
This didn't work, but I found a workaround. In my display, there's a certain point where the display actually rotates; on a normal camera that is at 90 degrees, but mine is at like 80 degrees. So I rotate my screen to 80 degrees, then fold it back on that. However for some reason if I go beyond that 80 degree point, the screen rotates back to inverted, so I have to fold the screen on this axis from now on. :( canon
Hey guys! My Canon 60D had the same issue and I managed to fix it by pouring some WD-40 multi-use lube on the outer and inner center joint. I did not what to smother the joint with the strong spray of WD-40, so what I did, I used a syringe w/ needle and sucked in some WD-40 in a small cup and slowly dropped some droplets of WD-40 on the inner and outer center joint using the syringe then rotate the LCD carefully 20-30 times till the lube is all absorbed by the joint. That did the trick for me.
This video was a life saver. 2 years of frustration with my T5i! It's a bit different from the 60D, but the correction was similar. I just had to reposition the sensor with the screw that holds it to the metallic part.
Legend! This solved the problem on my Canon G12. The screen was turning off when I had it flipped against the camera body in the viewing position. Thanks so much!
Hello Guys twist the LCD screen and you see the other two screws inside, I am happy to know what's the problem, first i thought it was a software issue - I tried some plastic but looks like a temporary solution, I tried to move the black bracket with finger up and down and it seems to work with out plastic, that bracket becomes jammed after a while u need to loos it up again, I will let you guys know if this is a long term solution...
May I ask what size screwdriver you use? My micro-set don't seem to work - I'm guessing the screwdrivers need to be JIS style, but before I buy any, I'd like to know what size to get! Thank you.
As I replied to another comment, yes the design is slightly different but the principle is exactly the same, see my other comments elsewhere in these comments.
Do you have any idea how to fix the problem, that the screen at an 80D is Flippin upside down, the correct way if you want to watch the screen from “normal“ position, behind the camera, if you flip the screen just a little bit up, if you're in front of the camera, like a V-log mode or something? I hope you understand the problem :) You know, the image is mirrored for a little area of the country flipping range if you flip the screen for the “V-Log“ or “selfie“ mode.
In my case (Canon 760D) the problem was solved applying a few drops of multipurpose lubricant (6 in 1 specifically) in the central hinge of screen and rotating the screen in all possible directions maintaining the camera with the lens down to allow oil to penetrate more easily. I repeated the process a few times until it worked just fine.
I have a question if anybody can help me with this. My canon fell and lcd does not turn on or show. Camera still is able to take pictures. I opened up the lcd and looked at it and it doesn't seemed cracked but it looks like the swivel metal piece is bent and the black plastic is cracked so I'm not too sure if it is the lcd or maybe a sensor that is not detecting it to turn on screen or something more internally? Thank you for your time and patience.
Thanks for the quick guide! I'm tempted to try this right now, but I have an important shoot in a couple of days so I'll wait until that's done just in case I completely mess things up.
Thanks for showing the internals. I had a similar issue but wedging a piece of something in there was inconsistent so I did something a bit different. I roughed up the part of the cam that engages the switch with some sandpaper and brushed on a small dab of UV curing resin and cured it with a UV LED flashlight. Now the cam engages the button. My problem is perhaps the switch needs to be pressed down more than it used to and adding a little bit more reach on the cam itself has fixed this annoying problem.
Great idea for that model. Unfortunately I have the sx60 hs, and that doesn't seem to have a switch in the hinge. It just has a block of metal and a couple of cams to limit the range of motion. I have only had the problem since removing and unplugging the lcd assembly (I never took the lcd apart so not sure what I could have done to disturb it).
Hi Sophpos1. Thanks for leading me to the location of the screen flip mechanism, I've been puzzling over this for years. However, on my 60D, the problem is not with the black plastic bracket holding the switchboard in place, in fact, packing it makes it worse, so my problem is a bit different. I managed (accidentally) to pop the switchboard completely out so that it was only attached by the single wire at the bottom left of the board, after which I carefully manoeuvred it back into place. There appear to be to possible scenarios; 1) Is it the tiny cam follower (blue on your diagram) that is mechanically sticking or, 2) is it an unreliable electrical contact within the tiny metal switch body when actuated by the cam. Having fiddled about with it, I can't get it to not work properly, but I don't know if it will it be a long term fix, so I'm wondering if careful application of switch cleaner might do the trick on a more permanent basis. Which brings me to a puzzle....... I mentioned the "single wire". A switch requires a second electrical contact in order to complete the circuit but where is it? At first, I thought that the cam might come into contact with the metal switch body and complete or break the circuit, but it doesn't seem intended to do that. Any ideas?
Hi Sophpos1. Thanks for leading me to the location of the screen flip mechanism, I've been puzzling over this for years. However, on my 60D, the problem is not with the black plastic bracket holding the switchboard in place, in fact, packing it makes it worse, so my problem is a bit different. I managed (accidentally) to pop the switchboard completely out so that it was only attached by the single wire at the bottom left of the board, after which I carefully manoeuvred it back into place. There appear to be to possible scenarios; 1) Is it the tiny cam follower (blue on your diagram) that is mechanically sticking or, 2) is it an unreliable electrical contact within the tiny metal switch body when actuated by the cam. Having fiddled about with it, I can't get it to not work properly, but I don't know if it will it be a long term fix, so I'm wondering if careful application of switch cleaner might do the trick on a more permanent basis. Which brings me to a puzzle....... I mentioned the "single wire". A switch requires a second electrical contact in order to complete the circuit but where is it? At first, I thought that the cam might come into contact with the metal switch body and complete or break the circuit, but it doesn't seem intended to do that. Any ideas?
hi, did you find any more info about that single wire? at this point I don't even care about the screen rotation, I'd like to fix it once and for all in the upside down position (screen open in the back). I also don't understand how a single wire can tell the camera if a switch is on or off... makes no sense, unless the cam is making contact like you said. EDIT : ok apparently the cam touching the switch is what triggers the rotation, I just tried to short circuit it by touching the cam and the body of the switch with an extra wire and the screen rotates. I need to find a way to connect them for good now EDIT 2 : I fixed it forever in that position i.imgur.com/vJuZFx8.jpg
@@remizik That's interesting - let us know how you get on with it. Mine has continued to work since my post here and I kind-of forgot about the problem. I never really got to the bottom of the "single wire" thing - I couldn't get the rotation by short-circuiting, only by actuating the tiny cam.
@@FunkOsax that's because the small wire is insulated (transparent coating). I used an sharp blade to peel it off a bit, then soldered a wire like in my post above that I edited :)
Interesting. Good Job! Yeah, I've been having a bit of trouble with this myself. When I find some time later on, I will explore further on this issue on my 60D. Thank you for posting this! You Tube to the rescue once again! Just think, 20 years ago, we would have made a decision on what size hammers to use, instead of finesse...
Hi Sophpos1. Thanks for leading me to the location and nature of the screen flip mechanism, I've been puzzling over this for years. However, on my 60D, the problem is not with the black plastic bracket holding the switchboard in place, in fact, packing it makes it worse, so my problem is a bit different. I managed (accidentally) to pop the switchboard completely out so that it was only attached by the single wire at the bottom left of the board, after which I carefully manoeuvred it back into place. There appear to be two possible scenarios; 1) Is it the tiny cam follower (blue on your diagram) that is mechanically sticking or, 2) is it an unreliable electrical contact within the tiny metal switch body when actuated by the cam. Having fiddled about with it, I can't get it to not work properly, but I don't know if it will it be a long term fix, so I'm wondering if careful application of switch cleaner might do the trick on a more permanent basis. Which brings me to a puzzle....... I mentioned the "single wire". A switch requires a second electrical contact in order to complete the circuit but where is it? At first, I thought that the cam might come into contact with the metal switch body and complete or break the circuit, but it doesn't seem intended to do that. Any ideas?
The design is slightly different yes but the principle is exactly the same, see my other comment elsewhere in these comments. It was really easy and quick to fix - don't give up or pay for a professional to fix when you can do for yourself.
I liked it. Nice job. But the video shows the hinge cover open; you haven't shown how to open the cover. Could you please guide me. I don't want to meddle with the screws without learning it fully. Will be happy if you show a video opening the hinge cover (or case, whatever)
how to open (disassembly) to get in this internal of the camera??
did you get the answer?
OK Just did this and it worked. FOUR screws are all along the hinge: Two are visible on the inside of the hinge with screen opened. The other two: With the screen open, ROTATE THE SCREEN 90 degrees in any direction - you'll see the other two that are hidden along the hinge. I tested by jamming a toothpick tip under the black plastic part on the back of the tiny green circuit board. Left the jammed part in there, twisted the toothpick so it breaks, and used one tweezer side to push into place. Keep testing though, I ended up jamming two toothpick tips. It's janky but now it the picture rotates to the correct positions at each angle so IT"S FINE.
i should have discovered this 3 hours ago! i just came up with the same fix myself but i used the toothpick. it's working now. thanks for posting this...it's a widespread problem!
No worries! We read online about people being charged a lot to have this fixed by Canon. Probably quite a lucrative problem for them... I’m assuming the people disliking the video are camera repairers 😉
Glad it helped! My wife uploaded it 🙂
My switch was just dirty. I popped the board out from the plastic bracket and cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol from a cotton swap. That worked for me.
Can anyone tell me which size of screwdriver is required for this (as I'll need to order one).
Hey me, you need a Japanese cross type (Phillips type) number 000, can be found eBay etc. as part of a set - just search for: TD-56S
Hey there me, thanks for the info.... Any other tips?
Hi again me... Yes, you don't need to wedge anything in there to fix this on a 700D - the screw holding the PCB to the mechanism was not tightened sufficiently during manufacture allowing it to slip up over time and many uses - simply loosen the screw using the same Japanese #000 and push down the PCB, keep it in place with another small flat headed screwdriver and then tighten the PCB screw until it is firm. Test and re-assemble, DONE.
Oh Ta very much, that's champion - proper sorted now... Cheers!
This was so easy! Thank you for posting this video! 2 years of frustration fixed in less than 10 minutes!
I can't get this to work actually, it doesn't respond to when I push the sensor upwards with a pick. just seems finicky like its random movement that will make it flip
Thank you so much for posting this video, you are a hero..
The WD-40 fix worked instantly....a small spray in the joint and rotated the screen back to front and front to back numerous times just to get it lubed up....worked like a charm on the first try! Thanks!!!
i see the first 2 screws, i dont see any other 2 screws. how do i get to the 3rd and 4th screws?
Hi, flip the screen 90 degress and then you will see them above and beyond from the inside
how did you remove the plastic covers for on that part?
Silicon spray worked for me. I only pooped 2 screws out . As I could not see the other 2 ?./?? Still worked after swiveling the display a couple times to work in the silicone spray lube. 0:06
Jesus, how can Canon have made such a rubbish design? 🙄 Thanks for the video!
Hi, I am facing same issue for Canon 750D, could you please help in fixing the issue
I have a Canon Rebel T4i and I had been having this problem for the longest time! I was reading through the comments in this video and someone suggested blowing air in the joint, no unscrewing no nothing. I tried just that, blew on it like an old cassette and my problem got fixed! Maybe for some its just a dust issue...? Give it a try.
Please help out I have the same issue on my 650d but it seems like the formula didn't work, what do I do next
Just a quick note when refitting the covers on the rotating hinge. The screws are two slightly different sizes so don't force the larger ones.
The one thing I’ve been ignoring for a long time. It’s 2am and I’m wrestling with the idea of digging out my camera and fix this right now. 😂
Exactly the same for me it's 2,30 am and i'm about to get out my bed and fix it 😂
IMHO it's just a matter of dust.
No toothpick or creditcard needed. Just a firm blow through a straw and .... yes, my screen turned up and down and back and up and down and back and so on.
But anyway thanks for showing the source of the issue.
I took mine a step further from blowing on it. I took a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol and cleaned the area. Removed the battery first of course. But now it flips flawlessly.
Where should place the pipe to blow. I am confused. Guys please help me.
worked!! Thank you, sir!
I had the same problem on my Canon 700D, guess what i sprayed WD-40 in the joint where the screen rotates and to my surprise the issue is fixed. I did not open the screws :)
Thanks for the info!! Fix my 70D in Brazil!!!!
Really this is fake
@@big_dude5036 Nope worked for me first time!
🙏This saved me! While I opted to not fix the issue long-term, it allowed me to understand what was happening exactly. Because the issue stems from poor contact between the metal tab on the turning rod and the rotation sensor, once the screen is out and flipped, a slight nudge up and down on the screen will cause the proper contact to happen! Hope this helps someone else!
Hi guys, I just fixed the rotation. I just need to remove two piece of LCD hoder, spray just a few of WD40(or any other lubrification non conductor) and flip the LCD over and over, and that is it. Thanks sophpos1, you are the guys.
Fuckin legend. Been looking everywhere for this fix! Cheers mate.
Thanks for this, and to the comments below who suggested WD-40. Mine has been flickering between orientations if the camera moved at all, very annoying. I opened it up, a sunglasses kit was the perfect size screwdriver. 2 screws on the inside hinge and 2 on the side of the flipped out monitor that were visible when its perpendicular (note: 2 are slightly longer so be sure to keep them separated), 2 small plastic hinge sections pop right off and back on when reassembling. Put a little WD-40 on the joint... and that alone did the trick for me. Just made sure to get even coverage and work it through by rotating a bunch. Instant solve.
Thank You, the only hardest part is how to find the screws of the main cover...
Thanks a lot for your video. I repaired the Display of my Canon 70D within minutes. For those who have trouble opening the plastic cover over the hinge: Remove those four little screws and use a a sharp plastic tool to pry open the two halfs.
What type of screwdriver did you use? I have small electronic and eye glass drivers neither fit. Thank you!
This didn't work, but I found a workaround.
In my display, there's a certain point where the display actually rotates; on a normal camera that is at 90 degrees, but mine is at like 80 degrees. So I rotate my screen to 80 degrees, then fold it back on that.
However for some reason if I go beyond that 80 degree point, the screen rotates back to inverted, so I have to fold the screen on this axis from now on. :( canon
how do u remove the protection tho?
can you show how to unscrew?
Been having this problem on and off for almost a year now and never found my way around to find a fix. This video is a godsend! Thanks 👍🏼
thankyou bro
Thank you for the video! Very helpful! I fixed my camera. My situation wasn't exactly the same, but i got the general idea. Thank you!
This is what makes TH-cam so great. Thank you for sharing this!
Thanks
Brilliant
Hey guys! My Canon 60D had the same issue and I managed to fix it by pouring some WD-40 multi-use lube on the outer and inner center joint. I did not what to smother the joint with the strong spray of WD-40, so what I did, I used a syringe w/ needle and sucked in some WD-40 in a small cup and slowly dropped some droplets of WD-40 on the inner and outer center joint using the syringe then rotate the LCD carefully 20-30 times till the lube is all absorbed by the joint. That did the trick for me.
Having this problem with my canon g7x ii when it’s flipped up don’t know how to fix ?!
This video was a life saver. 2 years of frustration with my T5i!
It's a bit different from the 60D, but the correction was similar. I just had to reposition the sensor with the screw that holds it to the metallic part.
Hi, I'm from Brazil my friend. I have this problem and I can't solve it, can you send your email?
Legend! This solved the problem on my Canon G12. The screen was turning off when I had it flipped against the camera body in the viewing position. Thanks so much!
Thanks for the help. I used a piece of 3/16” craftFoam in place of the plastic (or toothpick) as suggested and it works reliably now.
Hello Guys twist the LCD screen and you see the other two screws inside, I am happy to know what's the problem, first i thought it was a software issue - I tried some plastic but looks like a temporary solution, I tried to move the black bracket with finger up and down and it seems to work with out plastic, that bracket becomes jammed after a while u need to loos it up again, I will let you guys know if this is a long term solution...
May I ask what size screwdriver you use? My micro-set don't seem to work - I'm guessing the screwdrivers need to be JIS style, but before I buy any, I'd like to know what size to get! Thank you.
i have same problm but 600d how i fix it ???
Did you follow the guide?
As I replied to another comment, yes the design is slightly different but the principle is exactly the same, see my other comments elsewhere in these comments.
Your method worked for my 60D. Thanks for that.
Do you have any idea how to fix the problem, that the screen at an 80D is Flippin upside down, the correct way if you want to watch the screen from “normal“ position, behind the camera, if you flip the screen just a little bit up, if you're in front of the camera, like a V-log mode or something?
I hope you understand the problem :)
You know, the image is mirrored for a little area of the country flipping range if you flip the screen for the “V-Log“ or “selfie“ mode.
it took a few toothpick tips for it to work for me lol but now it does. thank youuuu
Your insight/findings on this issue worked perfectly for me. Much thanks, bro.
My 60D has been muck’n up as well. Thanks for this hack.
In my case (Canon 760D) the problem was solved applying a few drops of multipurpose lubricant (6 in 1 specifically) in the central hinge of screen and rotating the screen in all possible directions maintaining the camera with the lens down to allow oil to penetrate more easily. I repeated the process a few times until it worked just fine.
how can we rotate image of flip image from canon EOS SDK porgram???
i jammed it in, pulled it out and its working without having to leave anything in - guess it just needed a reminder - thanks for the video!
I can't find a screwdriver small enough to fit those teeny tiny screws on my t6i
really easy to do, what an annoying problem so easy to fix, nice one!!!
Works great thanks for the tip
Wish I could like this many times. Thank you.
I have a question if anybody can help me with this. My canon fell and lcd does not turn on or show. Camera still is able to take pictures. I opened up the lcd and looked at it and it doesn't seemed cracked but it looks like the swivel metal piece is bent and the black plastic is cracked so I'm not too sure if it is the lcd or maybe a sensor that is not detecting it to turn on screen or something more internally? Thank you for your time and patience.
Thanks for the quick guide! I'm tempted to try this right now, but I have an important shoot in a couple of days so I'll wait until that's done just in case I completely mess things up.
Does anyone had a solution for Nikon cameras? Could not find any solution online or was it just the same as Canon's flip screen?
im dealing with a 60d as well with the same issue thanks!
Thank you very much!!!!!!!!!!
I wanna see what you did so it works
I also have same problem I put pressure on that area and it would rotate back but this is a permanent fix , thanks for sharing
this is great, thx for sharing !
Thank you so much!!
Thanks for sharing it with me
Thanks for showing the internals. I had a similar issue but wedging a piece of something in there was inconsistent so I did something a bit different. I roughed up the part of the cam that engages the switch with some sandpaper and brushed on a small dab of UV curing resin and cured it with a UV LED flashlight. Now the cam engages the button. My problem is perhaps the switch needs to be pressed down more than it used to and adding a little bit more reach on the cam itself has fixed this annoying problem.
How are you fix it
it's not working for me? I don't know how you opened this part of the camera though???
Great idea for that model. Unfortunately I have the sx60 hs, and that doesn't seem to have a switch in the hinge. It just has a block of metal and a couple of cams to limit the range of motion. I have only had the problem since removing and unplugging the lcd assembly (I never took the lcd apart so not sure what I could have done to disturb it).
Thanks for the fix! I just pushed the board and it worked. Couldn't find anything to put there so mine was a temporary solution.
thank you
Thank u so mutch!!!
wow thanks a lot man
Hi Sophpos1. Thanks for leading me to the location of the screen flip mechanism, I've been puzzling over this for years. However, on my 60D, the problem is not with the black plastic bracket holding the switchboard in place, in fact, packing it makes it worse, so my problem is a bit different.
I managed (accidentally) to pop the switchboard completely out so that it was only attached by the single wire at the bottom left of the board, after which I carefully manoeuvred it back into place.
There appear to be to possible scenarios; 1) Is it the tiny cam follower (blue on your diagram) that is mechanically sticking or, 2) is it an unreliable electrical contact within the tiny metal switch body when actuated by the cam.
Having fiddled about with it, I can't get it to not work properly, but I don't know if it will it be a long term fix, so I'm wondering if careful application of switch cleaner might do the trick on a more permanent basis.
Which brings me to a puzzle....... I mentioned the "single wire". A switch requires a second electrical contact in order to complete the circuit but where is it? At first, I thought that the cam might come into contact with the metal switch body and complete or break the circuit, but it doesn't seem intended to do that. Any ideas?
I just bought my new EOS 700D and it's doing this fresh out of the box. Quite discouraging. Thanks for this fix.
thanks a lot
Muuuuuito obrigado (from Brasil?)
Não entendi direito, poderia me explicar em português?
Hi Sophpos1. Thanks for leading me to the location of the screen flip mechanism, I've been puzzling over this for years. However, on my 60D, the problem is not with the black plastic bracket holding the switchboard in place, in fact, packing it makes it worse, so my problem is a bit different.
I managed (accidentally) to pop the switchboard completely out so that it was only attached by the single wire at the bottom left of the board, after which I carefully manoeuvred it back into place.
There appear to be to possible scenarios; 1) Is it the tiny cam follower (blue on your diagram) that is mechanically sticking or, 2) is it an unreliable electrical contact within the tiny metal switch body when actuated by the cam.
Having fiddled about with it, I can't get it to not work properly, but I don't know if it will it be a long term fix, so I'm wondering if careful application of switch cleaner might do the trick on a more permanent basis.
Which brings me to a puzzle....... I mentioned the "single wire". A switch requires a second electrical contact in order to complete the circuit but where is it? At first, I thought that the cam might come into contact with the metal switch body and complete or break the circuit, but it doesn't seem intended to do that. Any ideas?
hi, did you find any more info about that single wire? at this point I don't even care about the screen rotation, I'd like to fix it once and for all in the upside down position (screen open in the back). I also don't understand how a single wire can tell the camera if a switch is on or off... makes no sense, unless the cam is making contact like you said.
EDIT : ok apparently the cam touching the switch is what triggers the rotation, I just tried to short circuit it by touching the cam and the body of the switch with an extra wire and the screen rotates. I need to find a way to connect them for good now
EDIT 2 : I fixed it forever in that position i.imgur.com/vJuZFx8.jpg
@@remizik That's interesting - let us know how you get on with it.
Mine has continued to work since my post here and I kind-of forgot about the problem. I never really got to the bottom of the "single wire" thing - I couldn't get the rotation by short-circuiting, only by actuating the tiny cam.
@@FunkOsax that's because the small wire is insulated (transparent coating). I used an sharp blade to peel it off a bit, then soldered a wire like in my post above that I edited :)
Interesting. Good Job! Yeah, I've been having a bit of trouble with this myself. When I find some time later on, I will explore further on this issue on my 60D. Thank you for posting this! You Tube to the rescue once again! Just think, 20 years ago, we would have made a decision on what size hammers to use, instead of finesse...
Hi Sophpos1. Thanks for leading me to the location and nature of the screen flip mechanism, I've been puzzling over this for years. However, on my 60D, the problem is not with the black plastic bracket holding the switchboard in place, in fact, packing it makes it worse, so my problem is a bit different.
I managed (accidentally) to pop the switchboard completely out so that it was only attached by the single wire at the bottom left of the board, after which I carefully manoeuvred it back into place.
There appear to be two possible scenarios; 1) Is it the tiny cam follower (blue on your diagram) that is mechanically sticking or, 2) is it an unreliable electrical contact within the tiny metal switch body when actuated by the cam.
Having fiddled about with it, I can't get it to not work properly, but I don't know if it will it be a long term fix, so I'm wondering if careful application of switch cleaner might do the trick on a more permanent basis.
Which brings me to a puzzle....... I mentioned the "single wire". A switch requires a second electrical contact in order to complete the circuit but where is it? At first, I thought that the cam might come into contact with the metal switch body and complete or break the circuit, but it doesn't seem intended to do that. Any ideas?
switch has far too much debounce and camera cant detect it accurately. you need a new switch and possibly a rewiring of it since one cable is missing.
Thanks but I don't think this solve the issue for my Canon t6i because the screens are designed slightly differently
Did you try this or not?
The design is slightly different yes but the principle is exactly the same, see my other comment elsewhere in these comments. It was really easy and quick to fix - don't give up or pay for a professional to fix when you can do for yourself.
That’s not an “easy” fix