Thanks Budd, this is exactly what I have do after changing out a small window in a 9" wall that had no external lintel. The bricks above it were near the roof and all loose. Cheers for the lesson 👍
Me, cutting one brick : drive to DIY store, buy a grinder, cutting disc, dust mask, ear defenders, gloves, goggles, extension lead; spend 10 mins measuring brick, 10 minutes cutting brick. Cost = 200 quid, time = 1 day Budd the builder: casually whack the brick with trowel, cuts perfectly, already had the trowel. Cost = zero, time = 5 seconds 😂😂😂 Top job mate, great video👌👌👌
This particular lintel didn’t , your average lintel over a window wouldn’t have one either, if your not sure have a look at the specifications on the drawings, Much appreciate you watching the video 👍🧱
If you know your work, using individual lintels is a great way of not having to use an Accrow, but it’s only my way I do things, cut the first one in, cement it in , then let it go off, then cut the other one in repeat the process, job done.cheers for watching 👍🧱
if if wasnt going to be rendered is a concrete lintel still ok to use. or would you recommend a different type of lintel. i am raising a door opening with an arch and dont know what is best to use as its built in lime
Hi, I have a double brick house I want to access under it from the underhouse garage. My walls are also all brick. Would my wall run down all the way to the ground. The floors seem to sit on the side of the walls and not run under them. Hence I want to get under. They put an extension along the back 4 foot from the main building but go down stairs through what looks like the old toilet. So it’s dropped down and they just left this tiny access hole under the boiler between the house. I’ll get stuck in it for sure. Q: if I cut into the brick via the carport I’m thinking it may be double brick. How can I support the back layer of bricks by using this method as it only supports the front layer? Know what I mean ? Also wouldn’t I be better using an I beam. I’m thinking the bricks run all the way down to the earth, so would under my house be exactly the same as if I was walking through it as the floor plan above yeah? So I’ll cut under the house where the hallway is yeah? Massive long hallway. I play bowls in it.. ;) so that would be my bet bet to access the rest yeah ? If I knock the first bricks out to put the ibeam in what do I do about the second behind it ? Knock them all out at once? Cause I get round the other side.
Don't you own any tuck pointers Like literally you could probably tuck that in a little better with The right tools it looks like you're just surface pointing you aim to get nothing towards the back half I would give you a low score on your quality plus you're using the wrong type of mortar way too much cement for that **** old building
I've got a tricky one and can't seem to find a video on it, does anyone know how to do this for a single skin brick wall? I need to install a 600mm wide window but don't know where to start. If I take out the lintel course I'll have around 4 - 8 courses above supporting rafters (roof is mono pitch and low). Thank you.
Did you manage to sort it? I’m doing a door in the external wall, planned to use acrow props and some “strong boys” above where the lintel needs to sit
Nope not yet - been dealing with storm water channels (rainy season) - the window can wait. I reckon if its done quickly (cut, bash, grout in new lintel all in one session), there will be no time for settlement and it should be fine. @@Romanchelli-ci9on
I can’t quite hear you properly, two day time you’ll take the first bricks out, then how will you get at the back to put a beam in ? Also why won’t that beam crack ?
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Thanks Budd, this is exactly what I have do after changing out a small window in a 9" wall that had no external lintel. The bricks above it were near the roof and all loose.
Cheers for the lesson 👍
Many thanks for watching 👍
Amazing job, and even more remarkable is the time you spent to share your knowledge. God bless you brother!
Rob many thanks for watching 👍👏👏
Me, cutting one brick : drive to DIY store, buy a grinder, cutting disc, dust mask, ear defenders, gloves, goggles, extension lead; spend 10 mins measuring brick, 10 minutes cutting brick. Cost = 200 quid, time = 1 day
Budd the builder: casually whack the brick with trowel, cuts perfectly, already had the trowel. Cost = zero, time = 5 seconds 😂😂😂
Top job mate, great video👌👌👌
Many thanks for watching 👍
Use a tuck pointer for pushing in the mortar, much easier to ensure all muck gets to the back of the brick 👍🏻
This is great! Thanks Budd. Love the trick at 8:00 to get the brick to shape.
Thanks!
Finger, or margin trowel useful Bud. To push the mortar home. Top man
You mentioned slate a couple of times but I couldn't quite make out what you were saying. Was there more to do or is the job finished?
Every such opening should have a cavity tray to direct any penetrating rain water to the outside.
I guess you are not in the building trade it’s a solid 9 inch wall and it’s ending up being the inside of a room, cheers for watching 👍
Solid wall! Delete your comment if I were you !
Great video. Does a lintel need to sit on a padstone?
This particular lintel didn’t , your average lintel over a window wouldn’t have one either, if your not sure have a look at the specifications on the drawings,
Much appreciate you watching the video 👍🧱
it looks a soild wall, what about behind the lintel? will be 2nd lintel behind the first one installed? please advise.
It’s a 9 inch wall , we put the 1st lintel in then let that go off, then we can cut the hole out and install the 2nd lintel,
Cheers for watching 👍👍
Why cement, when the rest appears to be lime?
If it was face work we would use lime, but it’s all going to be covered up so there was no need to go that route, many thanks for watching 👍
If u do the same work but grand floor door opening, dont need any support to prewent crack? Inside block.
Always best to put more support in than needed
Brilliant again, you don't live in Yorkshire do you? I could do with you for some work that needs doing.
Thanks for watching 👍
it doesn't need an acrow support while you are doing the work?
If you know your work, using individual lintels is a great way of not having to use an Accrow, but it’s only my way I do things, cut the first one in, cement it in , then let it go off, then cut the other one in repeat the process, job done.cheers for watching 👍🧱
if if wasnt going to be rendered is a concrete lintel still ok to use. or would you recommend a different type of lintel. i am raising a door opening with an arch and dont know what is best to use as its built in lime
Hi, I have a double brick house I want to access under it from the underhouse garage.
My walls are also all brick. Would my wall run down all the way to the ground. The floors seem to sit on the side of the walls and not run under them. Hence I want to get under. They put an extension along the back 4 foot from the main building but go down stairs through what looks like the old toilet. So it’s dropped down and they just left this tiny access hole under the boiler between the house. I’ll get stuck in it for sure.
Q: if I cut into the brick via the carport I’m thinking it may be double brick. How can I support the back layer of bricks by using this method as it only supports the front layer? Know what I mean ? Also wouldn’t I be better using an I beam.
I’m thinking the bricks run all the way down to the earth, so would under my house be exactly the same as if I was walking through it as the floor plan above yeah? So I’ll cut under the house where the hallway is yeah? Massive long hallway. I play bowls in it.. ;) so that would be my bet bet to access the rest yeah ?
If I knock the first bricks out to put the ibeam in what do I do about the second behind it ? Knock them all out at once? Cause I get round the other side.
Very helpful!
Thanks for the feedback, be sure to stay subscribed for more videos. Lots of stuff planned! 😀
Don't you own any tuck pointers Like literally you could probably tuck that in a little better with The right tools it looks like you're just surface pointing you aim to get nothing towards the back half I would give you a low score on your quality plus you're using the wrong type of mortar way too much cement for that **** old building
LOOKS F IN GREAT FROM MY HOUSE
Bteer use a poining trovvel next time...
I've got a tricky one and can't seem to find a video on it, does anyone know how to do this for a single skin brick wall? I need to install a 600mm wide window but don't know where to start. If I take out the lintel course I'll have around 4 - 8 courses above supporting rafters (roof is mono pitch and low). Thank you.
Did you manage to sort it? I’m doing a door in the external wall, planned to use acrow props and some “strong boys” above where the lintel needs to sit
Nope not yet - been dealing with storm water channels (rainy season) - the window can wait. I reckon if its done quickly (cut, bash, grout in new lintel all in one session), there will be no time for settlement and it should be fine. @@Romanchelli-ci9on
Valeu Bud. Essa contraverga ficou legal.
Edval many thanks for watching 👏 where are you watching from ? Keep well 👍👍
Budd for PM!!!
I can’t quite hear you properly, two day time you’ll take the first bricks out, then how will you get at the back to put a beam in ? Also why won’t that beam crack ?
Has pre stressed metal rods through it
THUMBS DOWN : WHICH SIDE UP ???????????
👍