Great test, thanks ! You need to start testing batches of the multiple production runs of the same braid to show which manufacturer is consistently the best :) Wonder if the smaller labels would fair better? Ocean, Tasline maybe?
That would be interesting absolutely. I have spoken to one of the manufacturers about this and a lot of it comes down to the quality of the materials they receive from the manufacturer. The raw UHMWPE thread that gets turned into braid has a target strength, and each batch is plus or minus from that. So even if the braid manufacturer does exactly the same thing every time the lines can be stronger/weaker between batches due to raw materials. I also know for sure that at least one braid producer will discard milles of raw line if it's not up to spec.
I got this line in #0.6pe here in Europe and its closer to #0.4 diameter visually, very thin. Managed to get 3.3kg breaking strain, short of stated 5.2kg, but interestingly, on some Australian website bs stated 8lb which is believable
Nice result (except Abrasion tesst) And VERY strage issue with #1.2 / # 1 diametr. I belive this is nice line for far away casting with leader. Or for sea vertical jigging. Not for fresh water jigging. Daiwa, at Australian site, write about silicon coating and gives the recomendation for use mentioned above.
Very unusual results. There's good and bad about both capacities. The P1 being thicker is actually weaker in the abrasion test. Pick the one that is more fitting to your environment or type of fishing technique
everytime i went to test the feel of line in shop, i has this inconsistent thickness feel in hand, for instance i hand felt sufix 832 10lb feel thicker than 15lb, i always felt wrong but this test proves my suspicion all time long, you can't trust the label
Yep your right, I have found this a few times on various lines where a line that is advertised as thicker and stronger is actually thinner and weaker than another in the same range. very odd to say the least.
There is no Holy Grail of lines. The thinnest will not be the strongest. I would suggest you look over the website and pick an attribute that's important to you, lets say a diameter of around 0.15mm. Look through all the lines around that diameter and pick the one with the highest breaking strain.
I have seen quote a few of the Asari lines here in retail stores, everything is well priced. Doesn't appear as though the FCX is available here though.
I'm not sure there is a better or worse in this case, both are excellent but different. The Expedition has a coating to it feels a bit stiffer, Tasline has no coating. Both are good, its personal preference.
Great vid. Interesting differences from the PE1.2! I'm also an FG Wizz user. From this and some of your other videos it seems that the braid is always breaking above the FG knot? Do you think that's a result of abrasion caused when tying the knot? Otherwise I can't think of why the breaking strain would be different, since the knot seems intact.
Yep correct, the FG will (should) always break right at the top of the knot as this is where the mainline is under the most concentrated stress as its compressed under the tag end knots and is getting twisted to start its wraps. Abrasion may have an impact but its hard to say. If you have followed the video put out by FGWizz on how to tie it, its actually a really bad way to do it as it will kill the strength of the knot. They say to use the leader tag end to do a half hitch over the braid tag and main line (which transfers to the braid). Never knot the mainline, do all of the knots and hitches in the tag end only. As soon as you knot the mainline you reduce the strength by a huge amount. I started off doing it this way (followed their vid) and couldn't work out why my knots were breaking so low. I then tried knotting the tag end only and bingo.
@@thelinelaboratory Oh wow, good to know - thanks! So just do the wraps on the wizz and all knots with the tag end. Thoughts on melting the end of the fluorocarbon? I'm guessing it's unnecessary and risky based on how the knots break in your videos.
@jcpescamais yep exactly. Follow their video but when they do the 2 knots with the leader, one in the tag and one in the main, only do the tag side. As for burning, I generally don't bother. Bulbing the end of the leader may help if your knots slip off but if that happens your doing something else wrong. Plus it's risky. The braid is super sensitive to heat.
@@thelinelaboratoryyea I agree, I do the rizuto finish right after the fg and thats it. Tension it and trim the leader. Never had an issue even with 30kg drag locked up on pe6.
@@thelinelaboratoryno entiendo como quieras explicar el nudo fg , podrías hacer un vídeo de cómo hay que hacerlo por que a mi también se me rompe antes de llegar al nudo fg
Yes its a problem for sure. The table tries to show quite a bit of data which isn't great on a phone. I found switching to the browser to Desktop mode seems to help but its still not ideal.
Thanks for another good test. The good FG knot % was easy to spot. This line seems OK for ~PE1 - may pick someup if I see it on special.
Great test, thanks ! You need to start testing batches of the multiple production runs of the same braid to show which manufacturer is consistently the best :) Wonder if the smaller labels would fair better? Ocean, Tasline maybe?
That would be interesting absolutely. I have spoken to one of the manufacturers about this and a lot of it comes down to the quality of the materials they receive from the manufacturer. The raw UHMWPE thread that gets turned into braid has a target strength, and each batch is plus or minus from that. So even if the braid manufacturer does exactly the same thing every time the lines can be stronger/weaker between batches due to raw materials. I also know for sure that at least one braid producer will discard milles of raw line if it's not up to spec.
I got this line in #0.6pe here in Europe and its closer to #0.4 diameter visually, very thin. Managed to get 3.3kg breaking strain, short of stated 5.2kg, but interestingly, on some Australian website bs stated 8lb which is believable
Nice result (except Abrasion tesst) And VERY strage issue with #1.2 / # 1 diametr.
I belive this is nice line for far away casting with leader. Or for sea vertical jigging. Not for fresh water jigging.
Daiwa, at Australian site, write about silicon coating and gives the recomendation for use mentioned above.
Great test !!!!!!
Thank you!
Can you do 50lb j braid grand PE#5 review?. Im curious if they can really hold 50lb. Thanks!
Very unusual results. There's good and bad about both capacities. The P1 being thicker is actually weaker in the abrasion test. Pick the one that is more fitting to your environment or type of fishing technique
Please test a new kastking Shield. a new line came out this year.
Not available in my country 😞
Where you from? @@thelinelaboratory
@@NoName-yi3oz Australia
everytime i went to test the feel of line in shop, i has this inconsistent thickness feel in hand, for instance i hand felt sufix 832 10lb feel thicker than 15lb, i always felt wrong but this test proves my suspicion all time long, you can't trust the label
Yep your right, I have found this a few times on various lines where a line that is advertised as thicker and stronger is actually thinner and weaker than another in the same range. very odd to say the least.
I am wondering Daiwa tournement evo + compare with expedition
Good question, haven't tested that one as yet
Can you do Gosen x8 Roots 0.6?
What the thinnest yet strongest line you’ve tested
There is no Holy Grail of lines. The thinnest will not be the strongest. I would suggest you look over the website and pick an attribute that's important to you, lets say a diameter of around 0.15mm. Look through all the lines around that diameter and pick the one with the highest breaking strain.
Why do you think the abrasion is different than the 15 lbs one you did?
The results are pretty different between the two
Its quite odd - I am really not sure and I would hate to speculate, but it is interesting....
Please, do Asari FCX Fluorocarbon, i think this is best fluorocarbon for good price.
I have seen quote a few of the Asari lines here in retail stores, everything is well priced. Doesn't appear as though the FCX is available here though.
Thanks for response sir 👍
Hello sir . Maybe u can try Shimano Pitbull 8+ Line . Thanks before
Would you say the expedition braid is worse or better than Tasline elite braid. i’m looking at the 8lb variant in both. Thanks
I'm not sure there is a better or worse in this case, both are excellent but different. The Expedition has a coating to it feels a bit stiffer, Tasline has no coating. Both are good, its personal preference.
@@thelinelaboratory Yeah ok guess i’ll just have to test them out because right now i’m not sure which one i wanna spend my money on
I am confident you will not be disappointed in either. The difference between the 2 is splitting hairs.
@@thelinelaboratory Thank you for the help and fast replies i really appreciate it. Also great videos.
¿Cómo es posible aue PE 1.0 es mas grueso que PE 1.2? ¿Que há pasado? ¿Son hilos auténticos o falsificaciones?
Great vid. Interesting differences from the PE1.2!
I'm also an FG Wizz user. From this and some of your other videos it seems that the braid is always breaking above the FG knot? Do you think that's a result of abrasion caused when tying the knot? Otherwise I can't think of why the breaking strain would be different, since the knot seems intact.
Yep correct, the FG will (should) always break right at the top of the knot as this is where the mainline is under the most concentrated stress as its compressed under the tag end knots and is getting twisted to start its wraps. Abrasion may have an impact but its hard to say. If you have followed the video put out by FGWizz on how to tie it, its actually a really bad way to do it as it will kill the strength of the knot. They say to use the leader tag end to do a half hitch over the braid tag and main line (which transfers to the braid). Never knot the mainline, do all of the knots and hitches in the tag end only. As soon as you knot the mainline you reduce the strength by a huge amount. I started off doing it this way (followed their vid) and couldn't work out why my knots were breaking so low. I then tried knotting the tag end only and bingo.
@@thelinelaboratory Oh wow, good to know - thanks!
So just do the wraps on the wizz and all knots with the tag end.
Thoughts on melting the end of the fluorocarbon? I'm guessing it's unnecessary and risky based on how the knots break in your videos.
@jcpescamais yep exactly. Follow their video but when they do the 2 knots with the leader, one in the tag and one in the main, only do the tag side. As for burning, I generally don't bother. Bulbing the end of the leader may help if your knots slip off but if that happens your doing something else wrong. Plus it's risky. The braid is super sensitive to heat.
@@thelinelaboratoryyea I agree, I do the rizuto finish right after the fg and thats it. Tension it and trim the leader. Never had an issue even with 30kg drag locked up on pe6.
@@thelinelaboratoryno entiendo como quieras explicar el nudo fg , podrías hacer un vídeo de cómo hay que hacerlo por que a mi también se me rompe antes de llegar al nudo fg
Unfortunately your website braid table is unusable on phone. Tried chrome and firefox.
Yes its a problem for sure. The table tries to show quite a bit of data which isn't great on a phone. I found switching to the browser to Desktop mode seems to help but its still not ideal.
Did this line is from Aliexpress? There’s a few options there and I would like to know if they are legit or not.
No this was bought in Australia. I do not think any Expedition on AliExpress would be genuine but I may be wrong.