This project is not for the faint of hearts. You are proving yourself that determination and critical thinking along with hands on abilities will get you threw this tedious en devour with flying colors!! Well done Kyle! I am looking forward to the grand finale!! Thank you for sharing. God Bless.
Nice work Kyle, I know the video is great and the work is awesome. But nowhere compares to the actual work and hours you have spent doing this job. I have alot of respect for the work you have done here. Nice job, well done! Thanks for sharing the process.
Wow that is some work there. Looks like you are on the come stretch though. Thanks for the teaser at the end of the video showing the Cincy shaper. Can't wait for some video on that.
A very good result Kyle, well done mate! I know even the length of this "boring" video does not reflect in the actual hours you have put in to get the cross slide ways to the state they are now in. Just the gib to sort out and the Turcite( is that how it's spelt?) to add to it will sort it out no problem. That machine when you have finished will last donkey's years as we say here in the UK
After you have cut the oil grooves, you need to make one or two finishing passes by scraping, because after cutting the oil grooves, stresses arise in the metal, the geometry of the surface changes, and accordingly the number of stains obtained and the contact area decreases
Nice work! I will say, why do you stone the scraped surface before removing the ink? That will clog the stone for sure. I first wipe off the ink with isopropanol then stone any burrs and wipe again with isopropanol to make sure any grit from the stone is not remaining on the surface. Hope that proves useful. Cannot wait to see the finished restoration, I always love true restorations which also make the moving surfaces accurate!
Why can't you just shim the back side of the gib with a brass strip? I have seen it done before. It doesn't slide on the vee. Much cheaper than turcite. Nice work on the repair Joe
Muy concreto el trabajo que estás realizando aquí se rectificó esa misma pieza en un centro de mecanizado pero no Sele ISO las rayas que le haces tu amigo eso es para la lubricación
Why not add turcite/rulon to the cross slide? Same goes for the compound and the carriage itself really... You perfect the surfaces, you apply glue and rulon to the actual sliding part of the axis and voila, lost material ``restored``, geometries and heights preserved, and you have a softer surface designed to wear and bear the loads extremely well, as long as you have proper lubrication... I never like the idea of dropping the heights or actual modifications that mess with the original configuration... They are not sustainable... Some can be, but those are often major modifications like adding antfriction elements to what were original ways and slides and similar custom work... Rulon is quick and easy, sustainable and can be additionally added to both surfaces, the stationary and the sliding if the wear is significant enough to warrant such restorations... But that is even better, as you now have all the surfaces, true surfaces, scraped to perfection and you just change the bearing compound when it wears down(not quick if you have chip guards and way covers), thus making the machine ``infinitely`` serviceable and maintainable... Hell, some modern machines come outta factory with such dual rulon guideways and slideways... Otherwise, nice job! And a damn nice lathe, and a nice shop, actually, you know what, you just earned a sub... -edit- regarding the wear pattern, it could just be the nature of the part in question... Things do wear concave, but keep in mind that the thing that rubs against them wears convex... And with prolonged wear and different load patterns, things can wear different and result in some strange patterns, especially if a machine slide was used a lot for certain jobs that had it running mostly on both extreme ends, rather than remaining mostly centered on the carriage in this case.. An example would be the cross slides with rear parting rest, where the lathe was used for series of parts and thus had it`s own rather different pattern of wear when compared to a lathe that only ran the conventional position tool post... I can`t say for sure the specific reason for this lathe, but there is quite a few reasons as to why certain wear patterns may develop... Hell, surface grinder tables are notorious for warping just because the magnet was clamped too hard and that in turn develops ridiculous wear patterns in the stationary ways, at least when talking about V+flat ways, or double V`s.... Best regards! Steuss
![[UNCUT] บอสพอล แผลงฤทธิ์ บอสพระ-นักร้อง ก. โดนแฉยับ! I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 21 ต.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XKf6HeftoPI/mqdefault.jpg)
This project is not for the faint of hearts. You are proving yourself that determination and critical thinking along with hands on abilities will get you threw this tedious en devour with flying colors!!
Well done Kyle!
I am looking forward to the grand finale!!
Thank you for sharing.
God Bless.
Awe thanks I really appreciate the kind words
Nice work Kyle, I know the video is great and the work is awesome.
But nowhere compares to the actual work and hours you have spent doing this job.
I have alot of respect for the work you have done here.
Nice job, well done!
Thanks for sharing the process.
Very true. Thanks Ed. Hopefully I can finish this machine lol. Going on 2 years but hey that’s how it goes.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair Kyle you are an inspiration. 👍👍
Keep up the good work.
@@edsmachine93 thanks Ed I appreciate it really
@Vanover Customs Your explanations and footage of this very involved process are remarkably concise. Thank you for bringing us along.
Absolutely thank you
Hats off Vanover. A compelling video on the art of scrapping. Must watch.
Thank you very much
I'm glad I'm starting my scraping venture with a small lathe. LOL. Nice work as always, Kyle.
Thanks Greg
Excellent video, you have a good handle on the process and are able to articulate it well.
Thank you very much!
This is extremely interesting!
Thanks
Talking about before and after. I started scraping my milling table for 8 thou and got it flat to 2 tenths. All manual scraping
Very nice that’s awesome
That restoration will go right from what I see. Wish that the lathe will fit your requirements. Greetings from Germany.
Thanks yeah me too
Very nice, i've started scraping in my mini lathe as well. It is def tedious but will be worth it
Yes it is
Wow that is some work there. Looks like you are on the come stretch though. Thanks for the teaser at the end of the video showing the Cincy shaper. Can't wait for some video on that.
Yeah you and me both
That's a sexy lathe, well worth the effort!
Thank you
A very good result Kyle, well done mate! I know even the length of this "boring" video does not reflect in the actual hours you have put in to get the cross slide ways to the state they are now in. Just the gib to sort out and the Turcite( is that how it's spelt?) to add to it will sort it out no problem. That machine when you have finished will last donkey's years as we say here in the UK
Awe thanks. Yeah loads of work as usual but always worth it.
After you have cut the oil grooves, you need to make one or two finishing passes by scraping, because after cutting the oil grooves, stresses arise in the metal, the geometry of the surface changes, and accordingly the number of stains obtained and the contact area decreases
Good point check the video being released on Friday and will have remedied your suggestion
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair I'm looking forward to it
Espero pronto disponga de los sub títulos en español, tiene buen contenido que me gusta.
Thanks probably not to much work
Nice work! I will say, why do you stone the scraped surface before removing the ink? That will clog the stone for sure. I first wipe off the ink with isopropanol then stone any burrs and wipe again with isopropanol to make sure any grit from the stone is not remaining on the surface. Hope that proves useful. Cannot wait to see the finished restoration, I always love true restorations which also make the moving surfaces accurate!
Yeah I usually don’t not sure why I did lol
@@VanoverMachineAndRepairAh, alright, it happens lol!
@@romanvarcolac2238 agreed
Epic! You should be very proud.
@@DangerousSportsForSeniors thank you
Why can't you just shim the back side of the gib with a brass strip? I have seen it done before. It doesn't slide on the vee. Much cheaper than turcite.
Nice work on the repair
Joe
Yes you can it’s cheaper and quicker but there are many ways to do it
Muy concreto el trabajo que estás realizando aquí se rectificó esa misma pieza en un centro de mecanizado pero no Sele ISO las rayas que le haces tu amigo eso es para la lubricación
Thanks
Nice
Thanks
Why not add turcite/rulon to the cross slide? Same goes for the compound and the carriage itself really... You perfect the surfaces, you apply glue and rulon to the actual sliding part of the axis and voila, lost material ``restored``, geometries and heights preserved, and you have a softer surface designed to wear and bear the loads extremely well, as long as you have proper lubrication... I never like the idea of dropping the heights or actual modifications that mess with the original configuration... They are not sustainable... Some can be, but those are often major modifications like adding antfriction elements to what were original ways and slides and similar custom work... Rulon is quick and easy, sustainable and can be additionally added to both surfaces, the stationary and the sliding if the wear is significant enough to warrant such restorations... But that is even better, as you now have all the surfaces, true surfaces, scraped to perfection and you just change the bearing compound when it wears down(not quick if you have chip guards and way covers), thus making the machine ``infinitely`` serviceable and maintainable... Hell, some modern machines come outta factory with such dual rulon guideways and slideways...
Otherwise, nice job! And a damn nice lathe, and a nice shop, actually, you know what, you just earned a sub...
-edit- regarding the wear pattern, it could just be the nature of the part in question... Things do wear concave, but keep in mind that the thing that rubs against them wears convex... And with prolonged wear and different load patterns, things can wear different and result in some strange patterns, especially if a machine slide was used a lot for certain jobs that had it running mostly on both extreme ends, rather than remaining mostly centered on the carriage in this case.. An example would be the cross slides with rear parting rest, where the lathe was used for series of parts and thus had it`s own rather different pattern of wear when compared to a lathe that only ran the conventional position tool post... I can`t say for sure the specific reason for this lathe, but there is quite a few reasons as to why certain wear patterns may develop... Hell, surface grinder tables are notorious for warping just because the magnet was clamped too hard and that in turn develops ridiculous wear patterns in the stationary ways, at least when talking about V+flat ways, or double V`s....
Best regards!
Steuss
Watch this weeks upcoming video
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair If it has a machine treated well, i`m all eyes and ears!
Ave Omnissiah!
Love the non-interesting scraping videos. flat, perpendicular, parallel is where the hard stuff is.
Agreed