Another great educational video! This is PERFECT for showing this! I will probably still pick a ball and do this myself to see how it reacts personally, but this is really eye opening for anyone that hasn't changed the surface of their ball, like me! Look out! Incoming order for pads and True Cut spray!
Ball motion needs to consider ball speed. Ultimately ball motion choice is all about the management of ball energy. Continuous ball track is ideal because it provides control and margin of error tolerance. However, if there is not enough ball energy it is possible the continuous ball track (long flare) will result in many flat 10s. Angular ball track (short flare) can be a better choice for when there is over/under lane oil condition or when ball energy conservation is desired. High drill and Low VAL angle helps to produce angular ball track. Traction ball track is similar to angular. The difference is angular is backend down lane reaction while traction is front early ball flare. Low drill angle helps to produce a traction ball track. The angle of the ball when it hits the strike pocket is important. If the angle is too high the pin fall reaction will be undesirable. Thusly, angular and continuous ball motions tend to be the preferred ball tracks that enable control, margin of error, and best carry.
Started using CTD products this year and my average has shot up 20 pins per game to start fall league. Videos like this are super helpful to self taught bowler like myself so please keep these great products and videos coming.
Love the content Ronald, but there is an incredible professional bowler in the video, would love for him to get in a word or 2 no? Perhaps during the sanding process. But again love the content! Great work.
A lot actually. You may not be able to see the potential information unfortunately. Dude's a professional bowler, a ton of knowledge there. For example, i) when does he opt to choose managing the surface vs switching balls on tour for the aspiring bowlers, ii) for the casuals, what kind of finish does he like on house shots, iii) giving different tips on surface management for lower rev rate bowlers cause not everyone has EJ's speed and rpm. Just to name a few. Am not saying to go ham w the details, just chip in. I love the info Ronald gave in this video, but an extra perspective/testimonial from another professional does not hurt too, especially during downtimes of sanding the ball.
@@nathanielfuentes5294 If you're happy with it, totally cool. Again I enjoyed and loved the video, but having it more conversational would give a little life into it, especially since a pro is demonstrating in the video. Else any pub bowler would do, especially since not all of us have EJ's revrate.
@@nathanielfuentes5294 the video is lengthy cause there's so much downtime while the sanding process is happening. you know what, all cool my friend. Guess it's just a matter of preference, am only giving my 2 cents. we can just agree to disagree. have a great day Nathaniel.
How often do you need to resurface the ball? For example…. If I take the Primal Shock down with 2000grit. Will it last 10-20 games and need to be redone? Thanks
@@denmanfite3156 when you skip sand what grits work best in what combinations 500-3000 or 500-1000-3000. And regular step sanding do you go 1000-1500-2000 -3000? You have to experiment
@@Clarkson350 oh I believe Ron actually did a skip sanding video but I don't know it off the top of my head. If memory serves me correct it will scan the lower/last grit but the behavior will be more towards the lower of the scale. Been awhile since I've watched that video though and I may be completely wrong.
@@Clarkson350 I think that's mainly a preference thing. I personally don't employ skip sanding on surfaces. Feels like it'd be too inaccurate and with a result that is minor to just sanding normally.
So 2 things: 1) Most balls from the factory are going to be a little bit inconsistent from what they advertise - they might say "1500 polished" but if you scan them they'll be anywhere from 1000 to 2000. So unless you have a fancy scanner to know WHAT the factory finish actually was, it's hard to replicate. That said, you can get back to whatever they advertise which will be pretty close 95% of the time. Certainly close enough that anyone less than the level of... well, EJ Tackett... isn't going to notice. 2) Just speaking personally, I can get the ball to behave within 1/4 of a board of factory finish. I but like most non-pros I can't replicate my shot to within 1/4 of a board.
Have you tried that with every ball brand or just motiv, trying to build an arsenal and if there is a brand that surface change won't work on I don't want to use their stuff
@@joshuapaugh8271 his point answered your question: changing the surface is a huge component of ball motion. All bowling balls can have their surface changed through sanding or lane shine.
EJ didn't pick the best like to demonstrate where you'd use a traction ball. It's not uncommon for urethane balls to have very aggressive sanding on them.
A short sport pattern something like the Cheetah that requires you to have the ball hit the friction early and essentially roll out towards the pocket. That creates a bounce spot for when you move in later in the block
It read between 4000 and 700, then when he did 500 grit it bounced between 700 and 2000. Both tines he stopped when he found a spot that read what he wanted and quickly pulled it off. Put it in a proper scanner Sure the products work, they are sanding the surface down. But for a consistent surface, dont do it by free hand on a bowling alley table.
All that true cut sanding bs your hand position can create different motions on the same line just want u to spend money geometry is important when bowling learn angles off same line is sufficient.
EJ grinning through that intro got me smiling
I can throw straight like that. My spare game will be better lol. Met and bowled with EJ. My wife and I had a good time
I love this company. I'm so glad to be part of the staff :-)
Another great educational video! This is PERFECT for showing this! I will probably still pick a ball and do this myself to see how it reacts personally, but this is really eye opening for anyone that hasn't changed the surface of their ball, like me! Look out! Incoming order for pads and True Cut spray!
Great video. I love being able to not just read about these motions but have them actually shown to you. Didn’t get much better than that.
Ahhhhhhh...LOVE seeing this explained and seeing the motion as well. :)
How do you know it’s even all the way around?
You were in one spot and it read something and when you moved the device it read a higher number
Helpful demonstration!
Ball motion needs to consider ball speed.
Ultimately ball motion choice is all about the management of ball energy.
Continuous ball track is ideal because it provides control and margin of error tolerance. However, if there is not enough ball energy it is possible the continuous ball track (long flare) will result in many flat 10s.
Angular ball track (short flare) can be a better choice for when there is over/under lane oil condition or when ball energy conservation is desired. High drill and Low VAL angle helps to produce angular ball track.
Traction ball track is similar to angular. The difference is angular is backend down lane reaction while traction is front early ball flare. Low drill angle helps to produce a traction ball track.
The angle of the ball when it hits the strike pocket is important. If the angle is too high the pin fall reaction will be undesirable.
Thusly, angular and continuous ball motions tend to be the preferred ball tracks that enable control, margin of error, and best carry.
Ej is a gift from God. The best bowler in the world annnnd hes a 1 handed bowler!
So where can i get the handheld machine or app that tells you what the surface is?
ctdbowling.com/products/pre-order-ctd-bowling-ball-surface-scanner-v2
Motiv bowling balls are made in Michigan. 🎳👍🎳
Started using CTD products this year and my average has shot up 20 pins per game to start fall league. Videos like this are super helpful to self taught bowler like myself so please keep these great products and videos coming.
Love the content Ronald, but there is an incredible professional bowler in the video, would love for him to get in a word or 2 no? Perhaps during the sanding process. But again love the content! Great work.
🤣🤣and what would he say? Just to agree?
A lot actually. You may not be able to see the potential information unfortunately.
Dude's a professional bowler, a ton of knowledge there. For example, i) when does he opt to choose managing the surface vs switching balls on tour for the aspiring bowlers, ii) for the casuals, what kind of finish does he like on house shots, iii) giving different tips on surface management for lower rev rate bowlers cause not everyone has EJ's speed and rpm. Just to name a few. Am not saying to go ham w the details, just chip in.
I love the info Ronald gave in this video, but an extra perspective/testimonial from another professional does not hurt too, especially during downtimes of sanding the ball.
@@nathanielfuentes5294 If you're happy with it, totally cool. Again I enjoyed and loved the video, but having it more conversational would give a little life into it, especially since a pro is demonstrating in the video. Else any pub bowler would do, especially since not all of us have EJ's revrate.
@@nathanielfuentes5294 the video is lengthy cause there's so much downtime while the sanding process is happening. you know what, all cool my friend. Guess it's just a matter of preference, am only giving my 2 cents. we can just agree to disagree. have a great day Nathaniel.
We are hearing from the professional of the product.
Where can I get these products in South Africa?
Can you use the purple wow factor as a conditioner when changing surface?
How often do you need to resurface the ball? For example…. If I take the Primal Shock down with 2000grit. Will it last 10-20 games and need to be redone? Thanks
Thank you, great content
Great products Ron!!! Met you out at Junior gold this past year.
What are the best 5 sanding combinations? Like 500 -2000, 1000-4000?
What do you mean by combination?
@@denmanfite3156 when you skip sand what grits work best in what combinations 500-3000 or 500-1000-3000. And regular step sanding do you go 1000-1500-2000 -3000? You have to experiment
@@Clarkson350 oh I believe Ron actually did a skip sanding video but I don't know it off the top of my head. If memory serves me correct it will scan the lower/last grit but the behavior will be more towards the lower of the scale.
Been awhile since I've watched that video though and I may be completely wrong.
@@denmanfite3156 I know how to do it. My question is what is the most successful proved sanding strategies utilizing different grits
@@Clarkson350 I think that's mainly a preference thing. I personally don't employ skip sanding on surfaces. Feels like it'd be too inaccurate and with a result that is minor to just sanding normally.
This!!! This is what I needed in high school
I'm new to all this but let me ask this . Can you get the ball back to it's initial reading by polishing?
You can by following the steps. In fact you can get any surface finish if you have the polish and the sanding pads
So 2 things:
1) Most balls from the factory are going to be a little bit inconsistent from what they advertise - they might say "1500 polished" but if you scan them they'll be anywhere from 1000 to 2000. So unless you have a fancy scanner to know WHAT the factory finish actually was, it's hard to replicate. That said, you can get back to whatever they advertise which will be pretty close 95% of the time. Certainly close enough that anyone less than the level of... well, EJ Tackett... isn't going to notice.
2) Just speaking personally, I can get the ball to behave within 1/4 of a board of factory finish. I but like most non-pros I can't replicate my shot to within 1/4 of a board.
Interesting video.
Have you tried that with every ball brand or just motiv, trying to build an arsenal and if there is a brand that surface change won't work on I don't want to use their stuff
Ever ball can have it's surface changed. Company is irrelevant.
@@volo1826 the surface I'm not worried about its being able to change the ball motion
@@joshuapaugh8271 his point answered your question: changing the surface is a huge component of ball motion. All bowling balls can have their surface changed through sanding or lane shine.
Do we actually have to do this with the ctd products besides the sanding pads to make it work?
Reminded me of the old vids when back in the big alleys but way better professional sounding. Those Mic's from the old vids were horrendous.
With the 500 grit trucut on it he took the hard one out of the way
Your telling us how to go from 2000 to 500 grit. Do you reverse to go from 500 to 2000?
Yes you do
Can’t you just use water 🤔🤔
@@amberolsen8766 of course you can but that's a lot more messy.
Ok but when would you ever use traction motion 🤔
EJ didn't pick the best like to demonstrate where you'd use a traction ball. It's not uncommon for urethane balls to have very aggressive sanding on them.
@@denmanfite3156 I guess I don't understand id love to learn as much as I can about this sport
@@andrewburnett923 A reactive would never need that much "teeth" except maybe on the 52' badger pattern.
A short sport pattern something like the Cheetah that requires you to have the ball hit the friction early and essentially roll out towards the pocket. That creates a bounce spot for when you move in later in the block
Thank u
Is this ball even legal, as the finger inserts is way outside the ballsurface?
Lmao
The bowling ball looks like Picassos starry night
Should I do that to my brand new nuclear cell bowling ball?? It hooks like crazy
He said 2000 grit and it read 700 lol
It read between 4000 and 700, then when he did 500 grit it bounced between 700 and 2000. Both tines he stopped when he found a spot that read what he wanted and quickly pulled it off. Put it in a proper scanner
Sure the products work, they are sanding the surface down. But for a consistent surface, dont do it by free hand on a bowling alley table.
Grit=parking lot.
Davis Donald Lee Christopher Davis Anna
Don’t forget that when the pad gets too wet the labels come off 🤫🤫
Incorrect that issue was resolved a year ago 😉
Yeah ej can make all those types with tricks (hand rotation and positions,) don't even need sanding lol. Great content learning more everyday 😎🎳🏆
All that true cut sanding bs your hand position can create different motions on the same line just want u to spend money geometry is important when bowling learn angles off same line is sufficient.