I've got to tell you...these videos you spend so much time on are absolutely priceless to so many people. I've got a 25 Aquasport with a 2008 Honda 150 with 70 hours on the motor (was my uncles). It hasn't run in years...fixed thanks to you. The other week (with above said confidence) I purchased a 1989 Whaler 13 Sport with a 1989 Suzuki DT 40 with great compression. Before it hit the water I replaced the impeller components, cleaned and set the carb, replaced the fuel pump and filter, replaced a frayed control cable...basically full maintenance top to bottom. She SCREAMS. You're good peeps! Thank you! Come on up to the Outer Banks some time!
Thanks Stu, the DT 40 is having wot bog and stall issues, everything other than wot is great (I haven't tried pumping the bulb) I guess I just answered my own question. I was also thinking the float may be off, I think I 'may' have tweaked the tab :) Thanks again...and thanks for the dialog, rare today! Again, priceless! As a side note, I'm the second owner of the Whaler with the dt 40, everything's from 1989 garage kept but not run much. This winter, would you recommend replacing all the seals, fuel pump etc. I run it daily for fun and commute off the small island I'm on to go a 1/4 mile to work when possible. Thoughts? Thanks again!
Howdy. Always enjoy all your videos. I would probably be one of your older followers (62). We spend a lot of time on the water about Broken Bay, Brisbane Waters and the Hawkesbury and have done many social days running down to Patonga from Windsor for lunch on the beach or in the park. For the past 20 something years and with a few different boats we spend many weekends camping for the weekend at Dargle which is at Lower Portland on the Hawkesbury. Most just use an anchor or bucket filled with concrete and buoy and have one of the younger ones tie the boat up and swim in and to swim out to bring it in. So as to avoid doing that we used 2 ropes. One fixed to an anchor and chain as normal. Where to buoy is attached to the anchor we use a very large stainless D bolt. We then run a second mooring line through the D bolt which has a spliced loop to go over the ski hook on the stern. The other end of the rope goes to the beach. We then use a second rope connected to the bow with a second anchor. The stern rope will run nicely through the smooth stainless D bolt to pull the boat out to deep water and tie it off to the anchor on the beach. The bow line is also tied off to the same anchor. To pull the boat in, untie both ropes and pull on the bow rope. When not being used. Coil the excess rope and fit a large D bolt through the loops to keep it together and sink it so that it Does not end up in someone’s prop. When we come back in it is very quick and simple to. Pick up the buoy, pulled up the rope. Take the D bolt of the looped rope and drop the end of rope over the ski hook or cleat on the stern. Motor into the beach letting the stern rope pay out. Hook on the bow line. Pull the boat out to deep water and tie both ropes off to the anchor on the beach. Once set it all takes only minutes to tie the boat up. With how muddy the bottom is in the Hawkesbury we have had equal success with a bucket filled with concrete and chain.
I watched this 5 times to give me confidence that I could do this. Going to try this week. First thing Im trying to figure out is what I need to buy. Dont forget the metal posts to put into the sand and a sledgehammer! Thank you for putting this together.
Yep, basically how I do it....after we gave up on the idea of swiming out to the boat....just a few differences (thanks for showing how you do it). - I use two anchors to make the endless traveller as you suggested at the end (buried and sinking line is a must). - I use a chain from the traveller to the float/s (helps keep all the tackle submerged and out of the way). - Primary float is quite large (soft pink/orange inflatable bouy - as it is part of my optional sliding towed anchor "ezy lift" recovery system). - I use wide bow shackles to facilitate disassembly (which is also part of my optional sliding towed anchor recovery system instead of rings). - When setting the boat out, I haul it out till it reaches anchor chain then retrieve it 3 - 4 meters it the vain hope to reduce fouling or potenitally dislodging the anchor. One of the bravest things I have seen, is seeing a bloke use his Minn Kota spot lock and remote control feature to moor his 4.5m tinny for hours unattended (but I guess he didn't like the idea of playing roulette with sea fairing geckos up here in the north).
This "running line" system is great, but a temporary - and quick - way of getting (almost) the same result is the Menai Straits "Tripping Line" method. All that this involves is tying a conventional (old fashioned-type) anchor to the end of the painter (i.e. the mooring rope) of the dinghy (or tinny). A long rope is tied to the crown of the anchor (i.e. the bit between the two flukes where the shank joins the two "arms" of the anchor) . The anchor - with ropes attached - is then perched on the bow of the boat in an unobstructed position so that a person on the shore can just a jerk of the long rope and topple the anchor into the sea. All that is then necessary is to give the boat a hefty shove out from the beach. As the boat moves out offshore, the long rope is kept slack and progressively paid out until the boat reaches the position in which it is to be anchored. A quick pull on the long rope yanks the anchor off the bow and into the sea. The long rope rests on the sea bed, with the beach end of it secured to a post or stone. The boat rides at anchor - even in an onshore wind When you need to bring the boat ashore again, all that's required is to haul-in the long rope. This pulls the anchor fluke backwards out of the sea bed so that the anchor and the painter and the boat itself can then be easily pulled ashore.
In Maine we used to call this a "pull off line" except we moored a wood cross to the anchor and ran the pull off line to the cross so the pull off line would stay level with the top of the water. It's a must with small docks, large tide swings and more then one row boat.
Excellent video - think I only had to watch it 27 times until I got it (well I think I got it). One thought I had was to use low quality floating rope instead of sinking rope. Not sure sinking rope would always be on the bottom, particularly when the system is under tension. So still a prop hazard and the odd boater who attempts to motor between you and the shore is more likely to see a floating rope. Added benefit would be that the float would always float regardless of the tide (although may need two milk bottles instead of one). And no, I don't have anything better to do right now😎
Always love your vids. 1) I noticed that you had a beer lubricant but didn't show its application. 2) Setting the shackles with wire to prevent them from coming loose would of course result in chain and shackle rubbing causing the wire to wear off. Using a hammer and punch to set/lock the shackle threads would provide a simple and more reliable job.
Hey Guys, great idea I am going to create my own system for my Drascombe Lugger. can I recommend that you use Monel Wire. Stainless wire and galvanised anchor and chain make a great battery in salt water I took a stainless shackle off a galvanised anchor and chain and the first link of the chain was three quarters eaten through by electrolysis/corrosion
Yes, it certainly makes tidal mooring relatively practical, but I wouldn't say enjoyable when you are trying to get to work on a low tide in clean clothes! :D
Great video Stu and an awesome system! I'm in Sydney and have nearly completed a set up like this. I'm making a video and will post a link in your comments soon. I've also made a shopping list of parts needed for anyone else to rig up a system like this. I also note the chain you used and the 2t rated shackles seem a bit over engineered for my purposes. I've got a 5.5m bowrider and am a fair weather boater, so my set up will be a slightly lower spec. On a bowrider there also isn't massive storage for anchors and heavy chains etc. Hopefully have my video complete by end of the week :-)
Hi Stu, I'm not sure they use this method here out on the sound but over by Hat Island this summer saw boats anchored off shore. I can see where this could be used over there. I always assumed they just caught a ride out from a friend, a small rubber float or something like that to retrieve it. Some of the people on that Island commute to the mainland for work using their boats daily
We call it a off haul up here in the northeast an just having a t board on top of the surfs water keeps it from get tangled ,an keeps kelp an other Debra from getting in it an u can tell when ur boat all the way out .
Stu what are the regulations around setting up running lines? Where can you/can't you and do you need a mooring license or are they considered "temporary" (presumably with limits on how long they can be left in place)?
This is torture for me... I'm in the northern hemisphere which means boating season is ending! :( Now I get to watch you guys down in Australia have a good time while the rest of us freeze all winter! :(
I like these ideas, but at the start of the video you could have set up a drawing / chalk board showing arrows which way the rope is being pulled and the following action effected. all the close up video shots confused me on what you were doing until near the end of the video.
Great idea, only comment is to weld a plate/cover on the poles that you hammer into the shore in case someone trips and lands on the pole....... or put something over it so the post is seen. The plates on the top will help hammering it in and also help pulling them out of the sand.
Another common technique is to replace those poles with anchors that are buried deep and then a short length of chain with a ring on the end comes up to the surface.
What diameter rope do you recommend? I have 2 boats I would like to use this system with. I have a Stacer 3.85m Aluminium dinghy and a 5m Savage Aluminium runabout. I was thinking 10mm (Nylon) but would appreciate your recommendation. Many thanks in advance.
People where I live use the same basic idea, except for the anchor. Since the fishing boats used here are usually like ten meters in length, and they leave it for long periods of time. They buy an old car engine block from the junk yard, in exchange of the anchor. The buoy is attached direct to the sinked engine block in the bottom, the circle ring where ropes are running is attached to the buoy, rest of the idea is the same.
Yes, some of these running lines to have mooring blocks at the other end. I have a V6 engine block for my other mooring. I craned it onto the bow of the Green Machine, launched it and then pushed it off the deck one I was in position.
For short-term, retrievable anchoring off the beach, we use this: www.westmarine.com/buy/greenfield-products--anchor-buddy-deep-water-mooring-lines--P005_151_002_507?recordNum=1
I recall sitting in the bed of my grandfathers old blue ford truck as he dragged steel cables down the dirt road - he said we had to “get all the assholes out”
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I've got to tell you...these videos you spend so much time on are absolutely priceless to so many people. I've got a 25 Aquasport with a 2008 Honda 150 with 70 hours on the motor (was my uncles). It hasn't run in years...fixed thanks to you.
The other week (with above said confidence) I purchased a 1989 Whaler 13 Sport with a 1989 Suzuki DT 40 with great compression. Before it hit the water I replaced the impeller components, cleaned and set the carb, replaced the fuel pump and filter, replaced a frayed control cable...basically full maintenance top to bottom. She SCREAMS. You're good peeps! Thank you! Come on up to the Outer Banks some time!
Thanks Michael, glad the vids have been helping you get your motors fixed up. Enjoy your time out on the water! :)
Thanks Stu, the DT 40 is having wot bog and stall issues, everything other than wot is great (I haven't tried pumping the bulb) I guess I just answered my own question. I was also thinking the float may be off, I think I 'may' have tweaked the tab :)
Thanks again...and thanks for the dialog, rare today! Again, priceless! As a side note, I'm the second owner of the Whaler with the dt 40, everything's from 1989 garage kept but not run much. This winter, would you recommend replacing all the seals, fuel pump etc. I run it daily for fun and commute off the small island I'm on to go a 1/4 mile to work when possible. Thoughts? Thanks again!
Howdy. Always enjoy all your videos. I would probably be one of your older followers (62). We spend a lot of time on the water about Broken Bay, Brisbane Waters and the Hawkesbury and have done many social days running down to Patonga from Windsor for lunch on the beach or in the park. For the past 20 something years and with a few different boats we spend many weekends camping for the weekend at Dargle which is at Lower Portland on the Hawkesbury.
Most just use an anchor or bucket filled with concrete and buoy and have one of the younger ones tie the boat up and swim in and to swim out to bring it in. So as to avoid doing that we used 2 ropes. One fixed to an anchor and chain as normal. Where to buoy is attached to the anchor we use a very large stainless D bolt. We then run a second mooring line through the D bolt which has a spliced loop to go over the ski hook on the stern. The other end of the rope goes to the beach. We then use a second rope connected to the bow with a second anchor. The stern rope will run nicely through the smooth stainless D bolt to pull the boat out to deep water and tie it off to the anchor on the beach. The bow line is also tied off to the same anchor. To pull the boat in, untie both ropes and pull on the bow rope. When not being used. Coil the excess rope and fit a large D bolt through the loops to keep it together and sink it so that it
Does not end up in someone’s prop. When we come back in it is very quick and simple to. Pick up the buoy, pulled up the rope. Take the D bolt of the looped rope and drop the end of rope over the ski hook or cleat on the stern. Motor into the beach letting the stern rope pay out. Hook on the bow line. Pull the boat out to deep water and tie both ropes off to the anchor on the beach. Once set it all takes only minutes to tie the boat up. With how muddy the bottom is in the Hawkesbury we have had equal success with a bucket filled with concrete and chain.
I watched this 5 times to give me confidence that I could do this. Going to try this week. First thing Im trying to figure out is what I need to buy. Dont forget the metal posts to put into the sand and a sledgehammer! Thank you for putting this together.
Good luck!
Great idea so long as all the other boats don't do the same (fouling etc).
Again , great idea which I will definitely utilise.
Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great stuff. Thanks for taking the trouble to share the technique in such detail.
My pleasure!
Excellent. You’ve inspired me to skip Tuesday at work and take the boat out!
It's a service I provide. ;)
Yep, basically how I do it....after we gave up on the idea of swiming out to the boat....just a few differences (thanks for showing how you do it).
- I use two anchors to make the endless traveller as you suggested at the end (buried and sinking line is a must).
- I use a chain from the traveller to the float/s (helps keep all the tackle submerged and out of the way).
- Primary float is quite large (soft pink/orange inflatable bouy - as it is part of my optional sliding towed anchor "ezy lift" recovery system).
- I use wide bow shackles to facilitate disassembly (which is also part of my optional sliding towed anchor recovery system instead of rings).
- When setting the boat out, I haul it out till it reaches anchor chain then retrieve it 3 - 4 meters it the vain hope to reduce fouling or potenitally dislodging the anchor.
One of the bravest things I have seen, is seeing a bloke use his Minn Kota spot lock and remote control feature to moor his 4.5m tinny for hours unattended (but I guess he didn't like the idea of playing roulette with sea fairing geckos up here in the north).
I have been looking for this retrieval method for some time, today I spent $80aud on the material, great video thankyou.
You're welcome. :)
Amaizing. I do a lot of remote beach camping with my rib. And I am sick of beaching the boat. Great idea. Thanks
You're welcome, perfect for that situation.
This "running line" system is great, but a temporary - and quick - way of getting (almost) the same result is the Menai Straits "Tripping Line" method.
All that this involves is tying a conventional (old fashioned-type) anchor to the end of the painter (i.e. the mooring rope) of the dinghy (or tinny). A long rope is tied to the crown of the anchor (i.e. the bit between the two flukes where the shank joins the two "arms" of the anchor) .
The anchor - with ropes attached - is then perched on the bow of the boat in an unobstructed position so that a person on the shore can just a jerk of the long rope and topple the anchor into the sea.
All that is then necessary is to give the boat a hefty shove out from the beach. As the boat moves out offshore, the long rope is kept slack and progressively paid out until the boat reaches the position in which it is to be anchored.
A quick pull on the long rope yanks the anchor off the bow and into the sea. The long rope rests on the sea bed, with the beach end of it secured to a post or stone. The boat rides at anchor - even in an onshore wind
When you need to bring the boat ashore again, all that's required is to haul-in the long rope. This pulls the anchor fluke backwards out of the sea bed so that the anchor and the painter and the boat itself can then be easily pulled ashore.
In Maine we used to call this a "pull off line" except we moored a wood cross to the anchor and ran the pull off line to the cross so the pull off line would stay level with the top of the water. It's a must with small docks, large tide swings and more then one row boat.
Here in Downeast Maine, we just call it an "outhaul".
I will use a modified version on this that is more specific for my needs...
Thank you.
I tapped the thumbs up 👍 button to feed the algorithm monsters.
Excellent video - think I only had to watch it 27 times until I got it (well I think I got it). One thought I had was to use low quality floating rope instead of sinking rope. Not sure sinking rope would always be on the bottom, particularly when the system is under tension. So still a prop hazard and the odd boater who attempts to motor between you and the shore is more likely to see a floating rope. Added benefit would be that the float would always float regardless of the tide (although may need two milk bottles instead of one).
And no, I don't have anything better to do right now😎
Helpful as always thank you
Always love your vids. 1) I noticed that you had a beer lubricant but didn't show its application. 2) Setting the shackles with wire to prevent them from coming loose would of course result in chain and shackle rubbing causing the wire to wear off. Using a hammer and punch to set/lock the shackle threads would provide a simple and more reliable job.
Hey Guys, great idea I am going to create my own system for my Drascombe Lugger. can I recommend that you use Monel Wire. Stainless wire and galvanised anchor and chain make a great battery in salt water I took a stainless shackle off a galvanised anchor and chain and the first link of the chain was three quarters eaten through by electrolysis/corrosion
Yes, monel certainly is the best. I'm going to see if I can find some in Sydney.
your best video's are always with a beer.
Thank you so much. I’m in Alaska where our tides can very 10 meters. I have seen boats moored this way but never understood exactly how it was done.
Hey Ryan, 10 meters is certainly a bit tide!
Dangar Marine I bet I end up with a boat sitting on land. Lol. It’s a tinny it should survive.
interesting setup. with dealing with tides this makes perfect sense. a lot cheaper than many alternatives
Yes, it certainly makes tidal mooring relatively practical, but I wouldn't say enjoyable when you are trying to get to work on a low tide in clean clothes! :D
Best method its the one I'm going to use, cheers many thanks.
Excellent. Making one of these with a wooden float for my boat the weekend.
We call them a frape here though!
Great video Stu and an awesome system! I'm in Sydney and have nearly completed a set up like this. I'm making a video and will post a link in your comments soon. I've also made a shopping list of parts needed for anyone else to rig up a system like this. I also note the chain you used and the 2t rated shackles seem a bit over engineered for my purposes. I've got a 5.5m bowrider and am a fair weather boater, so my set up will be a slightly lower spec. On a bowrider there also isn't massive storage for anchors and heavy chains etc. Hopefully have my video complete by end of the week :-)
Wonderful video. Thank you for sharing
Hi Stu, I'm not sure they use this method here out on the sound but over by Hat Island this summer saw boats anchored off shore. I can see where this could be used over there. I always assumed they just caught a ride out from a friend, a small rubber float or something like that to retrieve it. Some of the people on that Island commute to the mainland for work using their boats daily
Sounds like those people are in a very similar situation to use. It's not as convenient as a floating pontoon but it's about $100,000 cheaper! :)
I learned something new with this one Stu. Very good explanation and video!
Thanks Jack, glad you liked it. :)
Slowly catching up...how useful is this going to be at Aberdovey in Wales in the uk...Genius!
We call it a off haul up here in the northeast an just having a t board on top of the surfs water keeps it from get tangled ,an keeps kelp an other Debra from getting in it an u can tell when ur boat all the way out .
Awesome to see this. I was thinking of making something like this and wondered if it would work. Guess it does! Thanks!
Stu what are the regulations around setting up running lines? Where can you/can't you and do you need a mooring license or are they considered "temporary" (presumably with limits on how long they can be left in place)?
Morning Stu well summer over here in Michigan your season just beginning enjoy and thanks for video
Yes, summer always goes so fast. Oh well, time for some good boat projects in the shed then. :)
This is torture for me... I'm in the northern hemisphere which means boating season is ending! :( Now I get to watch you guys down in Australia have a good time while the rest of us freeze all winter! :(
Time for some boat repair projects then while you wait for spring! :)
It can be hard work boating all year round down under. Lol.
Great video Stu!
Thanks Jim!
Very kool. And I thought our Halibut anchoring system was somewhat 'complex' . Well done Sir...
I like these ideas, but at the start of the video you could have set up a drawing / chalk board showing arrows which way the rope is being pulled and the following action effected.
all the close up video shots confused me on what you were doing until near the end of the video.
great video, great idea
Great idea, only comment is to weld a plate/cover on the poles that you hammer into the shore in case someone trips and lands on the pole....... or put something over it so the post is seen. The plates on the top will help hammering it in and also help pulling them out of the sand.
Another common technique is to replace those poles with anchors that are buried deep and then a short length of chain with a ring on the end comes up to the surface.
Legendary video. Thank you
Thanks mate!
Great info, thanks for the vid
good clear video, thanks dudes
Glad you liked it. :)
What diameter rope do you recommend?
I have 2 boats I would like to use this system with.
I have a Stacer 3.85m Aluminium dinghy and a 5m Savage Aluminium runabout.
I was thinking 10mm (Nylon) but would appreciate your recommendation.
Many thanks in advance.
I knew people didn't have to swim out to their boats...(sort of). Genius!
Even when I wade out the tide is always exactly one inch above the top of my boots. ;)
Using a double braid line as your running line instead of the 3 strand will prevent twisting :)
Flags on both ends for trip/foul hazard. Nice design.
Ideally the water end is deep enough to never get exposed even on the lowest tide, but a flag on the shore pole is a good idea. :)
Great video
-jack
People where I live use the same basic idea, except for the anchor. Since the fishing boats used here are usually like ten meters in length, and they leave it for long periods of time. They buy an old car engine block from the junk yard, in exchange of the anchor. The buoy is attached direct to the sinked engine block in the bottom, the circle ring where ropes are running is attached to the buoy, rest of the idea is the same.
Yes, some of these running lines to have mooring blocks at the other end. I have a V6 engine block for my other mooring. I craned it onto the bow of the Green Machine, launched it and then pushed it off the deck one I was in position.
I use loctite on my shackle threads.....easy to undo if need be........great job Stu
Loctite sounds like a good option. :)
Ķ
Thanks for the info.
Why do your shirts have different prices? They're t shirts.
I always put one line on top of the hull and the other line under the hull so it only needs one stake.
Genius
Not a boy, a buoy!
Why not just use a locking carabiner for the 3 way connection instead of splicing rope? That way it's easy to disassemble.
Because the only time we disassemble them is each 10 years when they get replaced.
I always wonder how that was done. Thanks for the great information . And you did not need your safety glasses. LOL
Just sunglasses. ;)
Very cool thanks
What sort of boat is the Green Machine, Stu?
Top video 👌
It's a De Havilland Offshore 4.6 metre.
Can you do this instead of paying for mooring in Poole harbour in the UK???
Not sure, I live in Sydney. I would guess not though, at least not for more than a day or so.
Somebody has been to Whitworths!
I wish I had bought shares! :)
I would worry with a wind that such a boat would be too much for that anchor.
Whats the purpose ??
Can't do any boating without a Coopers.
Indeed! :)
do not forget your beer
👍👍👍
For short-term, retrievable anchoring off the beach, we use this: www.westmarine.com/buy/greenfield-products--anchor-buddy-deep-water-mooring-lines--P005_151_002_507?recordNum=1
I'd been keen to experiment with one of those for short trips ashore.
They work well...as long as there isn't a real strong on-shore wind!
😃👍👏👏👏
I recall sitting in the bed of my grandfathers old blue ford truck as he dragged steel cables down the dirt road - he said we had to “get all the assholes out”
LOL. That pretty much sums up the essence of it. :)
Those splices are miserable!
Too much talking too little showing.