Worth mentioning: When checking the tyres, check the depth of thread in different places width wise, so you know if the tyre wears evenly. If not there might be a problem with suspension, alignment etc. When doing the emergency brake test don't hold the steering wheel so you can observe if car turns left/right. Also, observe how the front of the car behaves when it stops completely - if front bounces up and down after stopping the shocks need to be changed. During braking front goes down, if it goes up straight away and doesn't bounce the shocks are OK.
I wouldn't recommend letting go of the steering wheel, in case there actually is a big problem with the brakes. Since it'll pull you pretty dramatically and can surprise you.
@@nicklasveva if something's wrong it won't pull dramatically, just a little bit and you'll be able to correct it if needed. I'm not telling to keep your hands in pockets or write an essay during the brake test, just let the steering wheel go and be ready to grab it at anytime - keep your hands an inch away from the steering wheel and you'll be ok.
if you read the reviews about it on google play you ll see loads of people complaining that FIXD will make several important bits of info unavailable to you unledd you pay $60 worth of a subscription. Now the apo may be good, but its not a particularly good sign when a company takes stuff away from its services and makes you pay extra all of a sudden ;)
Also check:- Two keys! Wheel lock nut adapter! Log book! Clutch! Engine Mileage! MOT! NCT! Windscreen chips/cracks! Central locking! Wipers! If it has a tow bar! Etc, etc! Oh and make sure it’s a car and not a giant paperweight!
i bought a mk5 golf 1.6 the other day and didn't realize to check if the rear windows worked or that the doors all lock :D one of the rear doors doesnt lock but otherwise everything works :D
@@iwannawatchyoutube8826 I got a Corsa C 1.2 Twinport 5 months ago. In a rush as I needed a car for my new job commute 15 miles away. Got it friday afternoon needing it for monday. Having never bought a car I searched online for tips on what to check. But I tend not to have patience with these things so I ended up just checking the engine oil cap for white stuff, listened to the engine, took a quick look at the body, tested the gearbox (while stationary as I didn't have insurance yet)and it was pretty much it. I paid 900 pounds for it so I wasn't expecting much or wanted stuff like AC, power steering. After I got it I noticed it didn't give out much heat. Turns out the inner radiator is clogged because the owner used some leak fix that you put in the antifreeze and 1000 miles later the water pump failed. Mechanic said it's because of the stuff he put in the antifreeze. So + 100 pounds for the water pump change. At least AC works and summer is around the corner. Another 3000 miles later and it seems ok. Bloody Insurance costs me more for the first year than what I paid for the car.
heres a good tip don't go look for a car in a rainy day, choose as sunny as possible and take your time to inspect every panel for rust spots tank me later...
@@thomasmason8481 cos you never know what your getting!! He or she could of ragged the car just before you buy it. At least at a dealer its been looked at before selling plus you get warranty. Want me to add more? 😂😂 cos there loads of reasons not to get private.
The 5 Checks in order XD : Check Body for dents, scratches or misaligned panels Wheel and tyre condition Tail and head light condition Brake pads and discs CV boots and suspension bushes Rust Fault codes Oil level and condition Other engine Fluids, brake fluid, coolant Auxiliary Belt condition Cambelt / service history Check chassis rails Check for oil leaks Check electric windows Chek overall interior condition Check all lights work Check spare wheel and wheel area for damage and rust Run engine from cold and listen to engine noises General test drive and listen for knocks or rattles Test breaks Check running temperature Check the heater
4:05 Mayonnaise on oil cap could be a sign of head gasket gone. But it can also means the car is mostly driven on short journeys (never had a chance to burn away the condensation accumulated in the engine). So never assume it is bad straight away. One thing I would check though is while the engine is running, remove the oil cap to feel the level of blow-by. If the blow-by is excessive, it could mean the piston is about to go.
You're right, but i think id would be wise to avoid these short journey cars altogether, if you see signs of that (the aforementioned + for example excessive wear on the seats for the given mileage.
Apart from the mentioned ones: extra Tip1: ask why it is for sale. There is always a reason why a "perfectly good car" is for sale. If it just before the MOT, be weary. Tip2: Never buy a car in the rain. You can't see blemishes and you're not likely to crawl under the car. You can't see leaks anyway. Tip3: state of mind. Be prepared to walk away. Let the car convince you. There are other cars. Tip4: satnav is useless, if its not updated. Tip5: aircon: be sure it works. Tip6: a lot of interior wear on a "low milage" car; walk away. It's probably tinkered with. Tip7: Max 2 major things to fix. Especially when you can't DIY.
You want to make sure the engine is cold on arrival, and after a very quick inspection, do the test drive, this will allow the engine to run enough to get leaks running that may have been cleaned off by the owner, or fluids to contaminate that may have just been replaced.
Then hand over your five grand on a car you bought in a car park, discover it is a stolen car,go back to the car park and hope that the seller is waiting to give you your money back
I haven't watched the video yet, But if you're buying a used car (or any car for that matter) if you turn the ignition the check engine light should pop on temporarily if not then the dashboard has been tampered with
A lot of things to check for. Next time I buy I have to make a list and note down any problems. I have a work colleague, bought a NEW Ford Focus diesel, and the thing would stop while driving. The dealership don't know what to do. Someone else I know with a diesel Renault, same thing the car would stop all of a sudden but the car was over 7 years old but still, Renault couldn't figure out why it would stop and claim it never happened to them. Idk if he ever got it fixed.
This is a fancy car buyers guide for rich people and there were more than 5 checks. I always...... 1. look for rust, 2. make sure engine isnt sounding like a bag of spanners 3. check it goes alright and stops alright 4. check it selects all gears 5. Hand over the £400 (haggled down from 500 of course) Run it into the ground or until the MOT runs out and it wont pass another one. Scrap it and get £250 back.
My father almost crashed a used suzuki Swift while performing the brake check. ABS was bad, even the salesman shat himself, he didn't know about the problem.
@@jaymejohnson5785 Well, that would definitely be bad. But if the ABS is not working, and you slam on the brakes (emergency stop) then the wheels would just lock up completely instantly. If this happens at any significant speed, you will skid, spin-off and crash. At low speed, you should just skid and come slowly to a stop. But if the ABS was working, the car would stop very quickly and you shouldn't hear any tyre squeal or feel them lock up.
I also like taking off the oil cap when the engine is running to see if there is a blow by. I did it a few days ago when checking Seat leon and it turned out it had a cracked piston, thank God I checked it.
Also check there’s not a Royal Mail lorry plastered to the driver’s side, nor a world renowned singer in the window. In all fairness, hoping Jack’s alright, didn’t look too pretty.
@@TheOccTher you're wrong. FIXD does require a subscription to get any information on their app beyond the very minimal basic stuff. Want to know recommended fixes for an error code? Pay a subscription. Want to see the error code? Want to clear it? Pay a subscription. It's a complete scam and I don't recommend it. I learned the hard way by purchasing three for my vehicles and later found out they're useless. Buyer beware.
@@Iqe_zealous yes FIXD requires a subscription for it to help you recommend a fix for any issues, see the error code and clear it. It's a scam and they're worthless. I don't recommend them. Buyer beware.
Useful video!! Also: -Do a HPI check and make sure car has not been written off. If it is cat C or S it will say it on the logbook as salvaged -Rev the engine while it is standing and make sure it is not smoking from the exhaust (especially turbocharged cars) -Check previous MOT history to make sure the milage is correct and not been reversed -Check the advisories from last MOT and see if they are fixed
The coolant is blue? That is not good. Blue coolant be changed every 2-3 years and not compatible with VAG. It needs pink G12/13 coolant, which is lifetime, so that is a pretty horrible tip.
Yep VW's use pink coolant. Also please define lifetime. Is the lifetime 5 years? 7 years? The warranty on a Golf is 3 years or 5 if extended. Lifetime coolant is a scam. You define the lifetime of you car and its components by how you maintain it. The engine oil is lifetime if you want that lifetime to be 3 or 4 years or 60,000 miles and thats at a maximum.
Just bought a jag. The seller was a old chap and seemed genuine. On way home coolant light came on . AC was hot electric windows didnt wark when head lights are on . Repair on exhaust . Engine GBox and bodywork GREAT. So i went on visual and elderly gent. Am half way through fixing troubles. Car is fab love it
Just on your coolant check most modern cars are green or red coloured (VW is generally red). If it is blue make sure to ask if it was flushed with alcohol when changed as if not the different coolants can react and gel in the engine causing hot spots.
The intro is literally true. The combat music on the buyer is what's really happening inside their mind, Bonus points if they're unskilled on cars. 10/10 Accurate.
You forgot the second most important thing, the clutch.... Apply the handbrake fully and put the car in 1st gear and slowly let the clutch out, if the car stalls instantly, then you are golden, if it stalls after some seconds then you might skip it, and if it doesn't stall at all then skip that car instantly.
@@shahids3802 a diesel stalls easily too, ive learned to drive in a diesel and stalled multiple times. In a diesel its just more difficult to stall. Clutch testing is the exact same but you might want to try 5th gear
@@Frillar it's not a "fancy trick" it's a car mechanic thing, widely used to test clutches and far more reliable than just driving around hoping you find something... you don't have to tell a car mechanic how to test a clutch bro 🤣
Well it depends on the car, for example a toyota yaris new kit clutch costs like 170euros. You can ask for a drop in price for the clutch+labor and have a car with new clutch
One additional tip for when you e starting the car up cold. Leave a window or the door open and leave it so for 5 - 10 seconds before heading off. Sometimes something like a loose timing chain of a TSI engine might only make noise for 3 seconds before shutting up to being almost unhearable, you won't really hear it with the door closed. Older turbo cars and diesels are slow at getting to 90C of temperature, but you should drive it until it reaches that. A car not heating up might range from a cracked head to a simple thermostat or a temp sender, but these faults are always annoying to search for and a car running cold all the time might wear EGR valves and Catalytic converters out prematurely. For rust, always check the jacking spots first, nobody also looks the inside of the bottom of the door, especially bad on these golf V's.
You should ask someone who had already owned that car for a while, they all have similar issues at certain ages. I don’t even have to look at the car and I know that at least one of the cv joint boot is torn, MAF wire is probably close to broken, the washer hose near the hinge of the hood, the oil pan probably is leaking too, the handbrake cable can be rusty and seize in winter, was a pain in the rear end to replace…
One tip that may be useful. Alway look at the lights that pop up when you start the car. When there is no Check engine light at the start the dash has been most likely tampered with
And when the lights turn off the airbag light stays on a little longer than the others. If it doesn't it probably has been rewired in parallel with one of the other lights to hide an airbag failure while keeping the light turning on in the test sequence.
When buying a VW, always remember these 2 key acronyms to avoid like the plague. FSI and PD. Also, one motor to avoid at all and any costs, is the V10 TDI. Also, at least for VWs, most often times the cause of coolant grunge on the oil cap is a failed oil cooler seal, not a head gasket. You guys at Car Throttle should already know this, though!! 😉
You should check brake fluid with a test strip. Just looking at fluid level won't show you the water content and if there is water, the ABS controller could be on borrowed time.
The last used car i bought, i skipped every step except for the test drive, which it passed beyond expectation. It's a 35 year old Mr2, obviously i didn't care about most of the common checks. I found out the shocks were gone, which was fine, cause i was planning on getting coilovers for it. And some interior pieces were missing, which was fine, because race car. So far have replaced most of the stuff anyway. Transmission went out a week after buying it, that was fun. It ended up being the clip that held the line in got knocked off, cost me $7 to get it on a lift and fix it myself. Found the clip somehow still on the car. The washer pump was dead, again a simple fix for like $10. Car shopping is easy, when you know what you're doing. Guy told me the battery was weak, and ended up replacing it a few months later. All in all, i'm happy with the purchase, and after driving it, have decided not to make it a race car, cause it's fantastic just the way it is.
Someone once asked if the cam belt had been changed on the car I was selling. I thought they were joking as the car had 25K on the clock, unfortunately they weren't.
Forgot to get it up to operating temperature and let it idle for a good 5-10 minutes. Then step on the pedal and check for blue smoke. Also works on cold starts sometimes if the rings are worn badly.
These simple checks are great, it gets much deeper from there. This GTI has the FSI turbo which has weak points in its engine. Always research the car to its specific issues.
I bought a 2008 vauxhall astra 1.8 for £1400 with 160k miles on the clock. FSH from main dealership throughout and it's never had any issues since I bought it June 2019. At the time I thought I paid more than I should of done but its definately been worth what I paid. Only failing an MOT once for a the number plate light not working.
it isnt that easy on these mk5s the airfilter is integrated into the cover and you would need to disconnect all the pipes and getting it back on is a pain in the backside (speaking from experience)
as a used car dealer i see checking engine whether it is burning engine oil or not is the most important among all the points coz may potentially end up ur car going into a dumpyard
Bought my car from a dealership and all the salesman kept doing during the test drive was talk loudly to me and insist the radio was played...pretented to like the song and turn it up a bit more. When I finally made him stop (it was hard believe me) I started to hear all the rattles!!! 😂
Most I care about are: 1. Is the body/ frame complete? 2. Oil ,fluids, how it runs after warming 5 to 10min(i like em runnin good) 3. Transmission fluid does it smell burnt( manual if you can check it. 4. most the cars/ Trucks i look at are 500 to 4k US Dollars so i like my cars a little bit on the trashy and patena side. 5. the little stuff likes lights, scratches, dents, brakes, wipers, bumpers, seats, tires can be replaced easily down the road. if it's over 5k Eu or US or more id worry because then your money better be worth it but if you like older cars like myself those are a normal replacement.
A good tip is to check what tyres are on the car. If they're budget ones it shows the previous owner didn't put much money towards it. If they're decent ones then they probably took decent care of the car.
I've been selling cars for almost 3 years and I have never seen anyone check a used car this extensively. Thankfully I work for a reputable dealership lol!
When i make fix to my car i always take pictures and keep receipts, so when i do sell it i can show the new owner exactly what i did. Number plate and location always on pictures and before i clean the engine bay i always record it so new owner can see if there's any leaks. Or rather i just fix the leaks, so far no leaks on engine or under.
I wish everyone did this. I hate it when the previous owner doesn't pass on receipts and invoices from services and repairs over the years. Even if you self-service a car at home you can keep the receipts for parts purchased and note down the date and mileage at the time of fitting.
I checked nearly none of this when I bought my 56 plate golf GTI. Fair to say I've spent around £2000 on repairs and servicing 😭 had it 8 months and still love it regardless
Also check for bad oil leaks above & below after a run out and any leaking brake pipes and petrol pipes. The owner could have wiped all the underneath dry beforehand. Look for blue & white smoke from the exhaust at the rear at stand still & driving the car. Give it a rev. Any burning smells whilst driving the car like burning oil or petrol. Gearstick movement & whining. Check air con & sunroof if fitted for leaks. Feel for any damp in floor wells from leaking window seals or leaking pipes inside. Good video pointed mostly all the things to look out for.
Very information filled! Very good video as well in every aspect, I can always expect the best, and get the best from Car Throttel! Thanks Alex and the rest of the team!
You might also want to check for common issues on the internet, with the exact type of car you will be checking out, then check for those when looking at the car. The GTI on the video suffers from weak PCV and blow-off valve, the cam follower you should ask when was changed, also on the video is visible that the intake piping is broken, also a common issue with these cars. Ruff idle means coil pack, also common issue. And so on. I own a MK5 GTI, from experience I can say, if you keep in check the common issues, it is a really fun and good car!
I laughed out loud at the beginning skit 😂 And at the part with the code scanner, because he said "it works for every vehicle after 1996" and I'm looking for a 1996 😂
lol, at 7:58 you can see some nice blue smoke from the exhaust (wich indicates that the engine is burning oil), thats a common problem with the 2.0 tfsi engines ;)
@@theniceguy504 Its not at all normal. Your car is not supposed to burn oil. Only a worn out and poorly maintained engine burns oil and kicks out blue smoke. No car I own has ever used oil. I have had 1 oil leak from a valve cover gasket and that leak was so slow even if left a year the oil light would not come on.
I didn't do a lot of this and one of the brake callipers quickly was found to have seized up and the heater core has just died today. I've had the car for just under 4 months
missing the critical bit though. 1) don't buy cars from public car parks, pubs etc, always from the sellers home (give you a good chance to judge how they look after other cars, houses, gardens etc). 2) never buy a car in the rain or one covered in water, 3) let the seller drive at some point, see if they rag it or not, 4) you mention the gearknob and steering wheel looking good, but more importantly do they match up to the mileage (knackered wheel and shifter, knackered seat bolsters, but only 30k on the clock, probably been clocked).
On a serious note. The 2.0tfsi engines somtimes have creamy gunk on the oil cap because of condensation and inturn is somtimes miss diagnosed as a blown headgasket! This can happenbecause of people doing lots of small journeys in there car and then not getting it to temp.
I would like to add, when you check for engine temperature, in some BMW:s for example the gauge is for oil temperature, for example an F30 320d, for that you want it to warm up to 100 degrees of celsius for the oil and preferrably stay there. Most cars with a coolant temperature gauge, they warm up to 90 degrees of celsius. You can see the difference in the icon if it's for oil or coolant.
Make sure to test the airbags with a full frontal impact at 60mph
😂😂😂😂
Great tip!
The seller looks so surprised when I did this step😂
Yeah so I did and just wanna make sure you guys do this as well car is very well totaled
I did this with my test drive, I want to happy, so I just walked away without saying anything…
Step (1) stare aggressively at owner
Step (2) say car has a “worrying rattle”
Step (3) kick tyre
Step (4) offer 50% of asking price
if all else fails, flip the seller off and call him a scammer
Banbury litho i cant believe for a split second my mind wanted to store what u said🤣🤣🤣🤣
That's only 4...
Don't forget the mandatory shake of the car to "check the suspension"
Never forget to kick the tyre makes u look like u know ur shit
Step 1: Kick Tyre
Step 2: Put down deposit
That's me
🤣🤣🤣
yeah kick the tyre and offer half of the asking price 🤣👍
Hahah
Kick the rim and then complain it has scratches
1 owner, well maintained, never pushed sideways along the a40 by a truck, had ellie goulding inside it briefly. Open to offers.
You were inside ellie goulding briefly?
@@CraigTheBrute-yf7noNo Ellie Gouldung was inside him
What about checking blinker fluid when buying a BMW?
It won't have any anyways...
It's likely still full. Even if it's the second owner, the canister is likely still ⅔ full.
nahhh thats not required in a bmw
Yall stupid blinker fluid is the most expensive liquid in bmws u must check it
Maciej Dąbrowski Optional extra on Beemers! Most don’t tick the option...
Worth mentioning:
When checking the tyres, check the depth of thread in different places width wise, so you know if the tyre wears evenly. If not there might be a problem with suspension, alignment etc.
When doing the emergency brake test don't hold the steering wheel so you can observe if car turns left/right. Also, observe how the front of the car behaves when it stops completely - if front bounces up and down after stopping the shocks need to be changed. During braking front goes down, if it goes up straight away and doesn't bounce the shocks are OK.
I wouldn't recommend letting go of the steering wheel, in case there actually is a big problem with the brakes. Since it'll pull you pretty dramatically and can surprise you.
@@nicklasveva if something's wrong it won't pull dramatically, just a little bit and you'll be able to correct it if needed. I'm not telling to keep your hands in pockets or write an essay during the brake test, just let the steering wheel go and be ready to grab it at anytime - keep your hands an inch away from the steering wheel and you'll be ok.
@@LordOfPetrol damn, you answered even though this comment is 3 years old. Respect that.
@@nicklasveva - Respect, indeed. 😊
Not gonna lie that was a useful paid promotion id actually get something like that
I did in about 30seconds-flat - it just seemed so useful.
Just get an elm cable, and the torque app. 15 bucks all together
if you read the reviews about it on google play you ll see loads of people complaining that FIXD will make several important bits of info unavailable to you unledd you pay $60 worth of a subscription. Now the apo may be good, but its not a particularly good sign when a company takes stuff away from its services and makes you pay extra all of a sudden ;)
In think you can use most obd2 readers with the app
The reader looks the exact same as my carista one that cost me £15
0:34 Ahhh! The good ol times when handshakes were the norm for greeting someone!
Check Engine: not rotary? Good you’re all set.
@@ObesePuppies that's like saying enlarged prostate isn't so bad when you know how to catetherize yourself...
@@MrJObajobas you made my day, lol
Not electric or 1980-1990's american Good to go
Check engine light on a vw I feel at home
@@TrueCanad1an although teslas are accepted
Also check:-
Two keys!
Wheel lock nut adapter!
Log book!
Clutch!
Engine Mileage!
MOT! NCT!
Windscreen chips/cracks!
Central locking!
Wipers!
If it has a tow bar!
Etc, etc!
Oh and make sure it’s a car and not a giant paperweight!
Hello
@@danielwatte347there
also, check for A/C if it's working propely, sat nav, radio, in fact any electric in the car needs to be check.
Electric windows and roof often are missed in inspections.
A/C is extremely important. A/C repair can be anything from £55 (gas top up) to £1000+ (replace evaporator).
Yeah i bought car with almost empty AC 🙈🙈
i bought a mk5 golf 1.6 the other day and didn't realize to check if the rear windows worked or that the doors all lock :D one of the rear doors doesnt lock but otherwise everything works :D
@@iwannawatchyoutube8826 I got a Corsa C 1.2 Twinport 5 months ago. In a rush as I needed a car for my new job commute 15 miles away. Got it friday afternoon needing it for monday. Having never bought a car I searched online for tips on what to check. But I tend not to have patience with these things so I ended up just checking the engine oil cap for white stuff, listened to the engine, took a quick look at the body, tested the gearbox (while stationary as I didn't have insurance yet)and it was pretty much it.
I paid 900 pounds for it so I wasn't expecting much or wanted stuff like AC, power steering. After I got it I noticed it didn't give out much heat. Turns out the inner radiator is clogged because the owner used some leak fix that you put in the antifreeze and 1000 miles later the water pump failed. Mechanic said it's because of the stuff he put in the antifreeze. So + 100 pounds for the water pump change. At least AC works and summer is around the corner. Another 3000 miles later and it seems ok.
Bloody Insurance costs me more for the first year than what I paid for the car.
heres a good tip
don't go look for a car in a rainy day, choose as sunny as possible and take your time to inspect every panel for rust spots
tank me later...
Scratches in the paint are also hardly visible when the car is wet
@@BakjeLeip yes, but wait, lemme go get a fun petrol car!
I'm gonna make you tank like that!
*tanks* so much
@Fox Firemaker Never buy a car while drunk on ebay. Seriously, don't.
Rule 1. Trust no car salesman
Rule 2. See Rule 1
Rule number one is, don't buy a car from a guy in the middle of nowhere, but he is fine with that just because the spare wheel was there.
Jason Gerrard lol a guy in the middle of no where will give you a car for half the price a salesman would 😂
Id never buy private tho soooo... that's awk
mike walling why not
@@thomasmason8481 cos you never know what your getting!! He or she could of ragged the car just before you buy it. At least at a dealer its been looked at before selling plus you get warranty. Want me to add more? 😂😂 cos there loads of reasons not to get private.
For perfect inspection, pros drink oil and coolant to taste if it's good quality. To go further you can breath smoke exhaust
No jerimiah car gas bad fur helf
: D
@@z-trip5457 Hammond you tiny man where is the lambo Chevy
Most important tip: don't go with someone like Ethan when buying a car.
Erm... ouch.
@@ethancarthrottle I mean he has a point?
With all the shoddy rust buckets Alex has bought, it should probably be the other way around. "Not a rusty MX5 or E36? Cross that one off yer list!"
Yep
you should buy a prius
Pro tip: check your rear view mirror before a brake check. I repeat, check your rear view mirror.
Thank you.
It's not your car yet, but it is your life :)
I love doing brake checks especially when there's a BMW driver 2 inches behind my car
@@Vrga tricycles don't count kiddo.
Master chrisfix has taught me well and I see that the same goes for you
ALL PRAISE MASTER CHRISFIX!
Same here
Don’t let Scotty see this.
to me scotty is best
ChrisFix over scotty any day of the week
Make sure the last owner has changed thier winter synthetic tire air.
Muffler bearing tend to fail too
@@hellman1099 Meh,,,, as long as the forward bearing is ok not to worry, When the reverse bearing is shot then your in for a costly repair.
And the Blinker Fluid
Also the piston return springs
@@adbitex That is actually a real part on rear drum breaks LOL . The pistons in the cylinder are returned by spring force
The 5 Checks in order XD :
Check Body for dents, scratches or misaligned panels
Wheel and tyre condition
Tail and head light condition
Brake pads and discs
CV boots and suspension bushes
Rust
Fault codes
Oil level and condition
Other engine Fluids, brake fluid, coolant
Auxiliary Belt condition
Cambelt / service history
Check chassis rails
Check for oil leaks
Check electric windows
Chek overall interior condition
Check all lights work
Check spare wheel and wheel area for damage and rust
Run engine from cold and listen to engine noises
General test drive and listen for knocks or rattles
Test breaks
Check running temperature
Check the heater
4:05 Mayonnaise on oil cap could be a sign of head gasket gone. But it can also means the car is mostly driven on short journeys (never had a chance to burn away the condensation accumulated in the engine). So never assume it is bad straight away.
One thing I would check though is while the engine is running, remove the oil cap to feel the level of blow-by. If the blow-by is excessive, it could mean the piston is about to go.
You're right, but i think id would be wise to avoid these short journey cars altogether, if you see signs of that (the aforementioned + for example excessive wear on the seats for the given mileage.
You're not really supposed to remove the oil filler cap while the engines running. The seller will probably think you're a nutter.
Apart from the mentioned ones: extra
Tip1: ask why it is for sale. There is always a reason why a "perfectly good car" is for sale. If it just before the MOT, be weary.
Tip2: Never buy a car in the rain. You can't see blemishes and you're not likely to crawl under the car. You can't see leaks anyway.
Tip3: state of mind. Be prepared to walk away. Let the car convince you. There are other cars.
Tip4: satnav is useless, if its not updated.
Tip5: aircon: be sure it works.
Tip6: a lot of interior wear on a "low milage" car; walk away. It's probably tinkered with.
Tip7: Max 2 major things to fix. Especially when you can't DIY.
I just brought 2.0 golf just 137000km super clean and with sunroof , auto, 10 airbags with factory navigation 11 speakers awosme 6 speed auto love it
You want to make sure the engine is cold on arrival, and after a very quick inspection, do the test drive, this will allow the engine to run enough to get leaks running that may have been cleaned off by the owner, or fluids to contaminate that may have just been replaced.
Then hand over your five grand on a car you bought in a car park, discover it is a stolen car,go back to the car park and hope that the seller is waiting to give you your money back
@@jasongerrard8940 lol, I didn't say not to do the other checks after, obviously, it's just best to look at the engine after the test drive
If the car has locking wheel nuts make sure you get the socket/adapter for them!
Just break them off and get new nuts
@@chocolatejalapeno790 not always that easy pal.
@@whiskyeet how so. Do it all the time at work .
My vw gli had one, usually the adapter is kept with the spare in the car, atleast mine was
Check all the tools
And the 10mm is gone...
Lol
I haven't watched the video yet, But if you're buying a used car (or any car for that matter)
if you turn the ignition the check engine light should pop on temporarily
if not then the dashboard has been tampered with
Isatnt could be a blown bulb lmfao
Turn the wheels completely. I ve had a guy that the tyres were worn out inside but not outside.
A lot of things to check for. Next time I buy I have to make a list and note down any problems.
I have a work colleague, bought a NEW Ford Focus diesel, and the thing would stop while driving. The dealership don't know what to do. Someone else I know with a diesel Renault, same thing the car would stop all of a sudden but the car was over 7 years old but still, Renault couldn't figure out why it would stop and claim it never happened to them. Idk if he ever got it fixed.
@@cartofulfierbinte buy japanese car they r very reliable.
I made this mistake. Wire was through the rubber...
That can actually mean the car has camber alignment problem. That's the usual culprit for tires wearing out more on the inside.
This is a fancy car buyers guide for rich people and there were more than 5 checks.
I always......
1. look for rust,
2. make sure engine isnt sounding like a bag of spanners
3. check it goes alright and stops alright
4. check it selects all gears
5. Hand over the £400 (haggled down from 500 of course)
Run it into the ground or until the MOT runs out and it wont pass another one. Scrap it and get £250 back.
ALWAYS do a full emergency brake. To test the ABS system works properly
My father almost crashed a used suzuki Swift while performing the brake check. ABS was bad, even the salesman shat himself, he didn't know about the problem.
What if it is bad does it just not stop?
@@jaymejohnson5785 Well, that would definitely be bad. But if the ABS is not working, and you slam on the brakes (emergency stop) then the wheels would just lock up completely instantly. If this happens at any significant speed, you will skid, spin-off and crash. At low speed, you should just skid and come slowly to a stop. But if the ABS was working, the car would stop very quickly and you shouldn't hear any tyre squeal or feel them lock up.
So test them at a slowing speed
I also like taking off the oil cap when the engine is running to see if there is a blow by. I did it a few days ago when checking Seat leon and it turned out it had a cracked piston, thank God I checked it.
Just remember, you're not only checking all this to avoid buying a lemon - you're also looking for points to negotiate the price down.
Also check there’s not a Royal Mail lorry plastered to the driver’s side, nor a world renowned singer in the window.
In all fairness, hoping Jack’s alright, didn’t look too pretty.
FIXD is awesome. I met the fellow who created the company. Nicest person and a major car nut. Loves his focus ST. Support this company! Best product
Hi mate is it good for all cars ? Any subscription fee ? Monthly or annually ?
No. No monthly fee. They also offer readouts of engine data
@@TheOccTher you're wrong. FIXD does require a subscription to get any information on their app beyond the very minimal basic stuff. Want to know recommended fixes for an error code? Pay a subscription. Want to see the error code? Want to clear it? Pay a subscription. It's a complete scam and I don't recommend it. I learned the hard way by purchasing three for my vehicles and later found out they're useless. Buyer beware.
@@Iqe_zealous yes FIXD requires a subscription for it to help you recommend a fix for any issues, see the error code and clear it. It's a scam and they're worthless. I don't recommend them. Buyer beware.
Brian Daniels thanks Brian much appreciated mate
Useful video!!
Also:
-Do a HPI check and make sure car has not been written off. If it is cat C or S it will say it on the logbook as salvaged
-Rev the engine while it is standing and make sure it is not smoking from the exhaust (especially turbocharged cars)
-Check previous MOT history to make sure the milage is correct and not been reversed
-Check the advisories from last MOT and see if they are fixed
The coolant is blue? That is not good. Blue coolant be changed every 2-3 years and not compatible with VAG. It needs pink G12/13 coolant, which is lifetime, so that is a pretty horrible tip.
Yeah. Blue coolant on a VAG could end up with a blown engine..
Your not wrong there pal
At least here in north America the colour means nothing
Ye vag coolant is strictly pink G13 (was G12)
Yep VW's use pink coolant. Also please define lifetime. Is the lifetime 5 years? 7 years? The warranty on a Golf is 3 years or 5 if extended. Lifetime coolant is a scam. You define the lifetime of you car and its components by how you maintain it. The engine oil is lifetime if you want that lifetime to be 3 or 4 years or 60,000 miles and thats at a maximum.
And now I’ve just seen this GTI’s been side swiped by a lorry on Facebook 😩
😶
That means your can buy it at scrap value now bargain
I love how you combine a promotion with useful advices. Normally will be a review and be very happy blah blah. But not for you. Great job
#1 tip is to always check a used car under direct day light....never at night or in a garage
Or at rain, like in this video
#1 tip is to eat my shit under direct day light
@@CristianoRonaldo-jc8kn lmao
@@ProjectExMachinaits always raining in the UK. 🤣
Her: do something else.
me: babe, like what?
Her: 4:27
AL Shakoush 🐠
🤣🤣🤣
4:38 VWs don't use blue coolant... it should be pink or purple.
Pink not purple
@@richiejeffs3887 G12, G12+ and G13 are all different shades.
@TheCrazySquirell fair enough, but I've only known it to be pink 😅
Being a car guy I will make sure my car is good which will probably take years!
Just bought a jag. The seller was a old chap and seemed genuine. On way home coolant light came on . AC was hot electric windows didnt wark when head lights are on . Repair on exhaust . Engine GBox and bodywork GREAT. So i went on visual and elderly gent. Am half way through fixing troubles. Car is fab love it
He was leaning on the door, first problem
He was in the middle of nowhere was the first problem.
Also: ALWAYS take a flashlight with you to check for: rust/scratches
Check if indicators work before pulling out in front of royalmail trucks on the A40...
Good video , anyone buying a car should take a check list , it’s easy to forget when your there in the heat of the moment
I'm like Moog from MCM. Just don't ask questions and hope for the best.
Bought a car, sight UNSEEN 🤣🤣🤣
Like Twisted off Ebay
Buying cars for peanuts with no inspection - yep. Buying cars for real money with no inspection - nooooo thanks
Just on your coolant check most modern cars are green or red coloured (VW is generally red). If it is blue make sure to ask if it was flushed with alcohol when changed as if not the different coolants can react and gel in the engine causing hot spots.
Honestly the beggining made me laugh because let's be honest we are all skeptical af like that 😂😂😂😂
The intro is literally true. The combat music on the buyer is what's really happening inside their mind, Bonus points if they're unskilled on cars. 10/10 Accurate.
You forgot the second most important thing, the clutch....
Apply the handbrake fully and put the car in 1st gear and slowly let the clutch out, if the car stalls instantly, then you are golden, if it stalls after some seconds then you might skip it, and if it doesn't stall at all then skip that car instantly.
What if it's a diesel?
@@shahids3802 a diesel stalls easily too, ive learned to drive in a diesel and stalled multiple times. In a diesel its just more difficult to stall.
Clutch testing is the exact same but you might want to try 5th gear
you can just test the clutch by driving the car normally.
no need for some fancy trick.
@@Frillar it's not a "fancy trick" it's a car mechanic thing, widely used to test clutches and far more reliable than just driving around hoping you find something... you don't have to tell a car mechanic how to test a clutch bro 🤣
Well it depends on the car, for example a toyota yaris new kit clutch costs like 170euros. You can ask for a drop in price for the clutch+labor and have a car with new clutch
I’m a old biker that’s just passed my driving test so I’m looking for a car this has helped me so much
Bikes rule 😎😎🌞😂✌️🤟
One additional tip for when you
e starting the car up cold. Leave a window or the door open and leave it so for 5 - 10 seconds before heading off. Sometimes something like a loose timing chain of a TSI engine might only make noise for 3 seconds before shutting up to being almost unhearable, you won't really hear it with the door closed.
Older turbo cars and diesels are slow at getting to 90C of temperature, but you should drive it until it reaches that. A car not heating up might range from a cracked head to a simple thermostat or a temp sender, but these faults are always annoying to search for and a car running cold all the time might wear EGR valves and Catalytic converters out prematurely.
For rust, always check the jacking spots first, nobody also looks the inside of the bottom of the door, especially bad on these golf V's.
You should ask someone who had already owned that car for a while, they all have similar issues at certain ages. I don’t even have to look at the car and I know that at least one of the cv joint boot is torn, MAF wire is probably close to broken, the washer hose near the hinge of the hood, the oil pan probably is leaking too, the handbrake cable can be rusty and seize in winter, was a pain in the rear end to replace…
One tip that may be useful.
Alway look at the lights that pop up when you start the car. When there is no Check engine light at the start the dash has been most likely tampered with
And when the lights turn off the airbag light stays on a little longer than the others. If it doesn't it probably has been rewired in parallel with one of the other lights to hide an airbag failure while keeping the light turning on in the test sequence.
He fit that promotion in there so smoothly I almost didn’t realise it was a promotion. That’s a first 👏🏾
Re-check offside for dents fellas, and massive curbing on nearside wheels!. Glad your ok jack 🤙
When buying a VW, always remember these 2 key acronyms to avoid like the plague. FSI and PD. Also, one motor to avoid at all and any costs, is the V10 TDI. Also, at least for VWs, most often times the cause of coolant grunge on the oil cap is a failed oil cooler seal, not a head gasket. You guys at Car Throttle should already know this, though!! 😉
You should check brake fluid with a test strip. Just looking at fluid level won't show you the water content and if there is water, the ABS controller could be on borrowed time.
The last used car i bought, i skipped every step except for the test drive, which it passed beyond expectation. It's a 35 year old Mr2, obviously i didn't care about most of the common checks. I found out the shocks were gone, which was fine, cause i was planning on getting coilovers for it. And some interior pieces were missing, which was fine, because race car. So far have replaced most of the stuff anyway. Transmission went out a week after buying it, that was fun. It ended up being the clip that held the line in got knocked off, cost me $7 to get it on a lift and fix it myself. Found the clip somehow still on the car. The washer pump was dead, again a simple fix for like $10. Car shopping is easy, when you know what you're doing. Guy told me the battery was weak, and ended up replacing it a few months later. All in all, i'm happy with the purchase, and after driving it, have decided not to make it a race car, cause it's fantastic just the way it is.
Lol just clicked on yt and this appeared
*”Its the TH-cam algorithm”*
Boost Gaming lol indeed
Hahahahahahha LOL, I can’t be the only one crying with laughter right now
WOW that's amazing.
Someone once asked if the cam belt had been changed on the car I was selling. I thought they were joking as the car had 25K on the clock, unfortunately they weren't.
I'm pretty sure the guy I bought my impreza off was a drug dealer... Been good for 10k miles so far though 😂
Jess93 did you get a good deal? ;)
@@ALittleBitOfGay seems so lmao, still going strong. Not bad for 2.5k haha 😂
Jess93 can't complain for that kinda money! Enjoy driving it!
I once bought a car for 5 ounces of stardawg
@@ALittleBitOfGay But he didn't say how much he paid?
Forgot to get it up to operating temperature and let it idle for a good 5-10 minutes. Then step on the pedal and check for blue smoke. Also works on cold starts sometimes if the rings are worn badly.
These simple checks are great, it gets much deeper from there. This GTI has the FSI turbo which has weak points in its engine. Always research the car to its specific issues.
0:12 I laughed so hard at that segment I don't know why lol, the bloke's face is priceless.
When he said selling his golf GTI and then an amber alert came to my phone for a stolen golf GTI
I bought a 2008 vauxhall astra 1.8 for £1400 with 160k miles on the clock. FSH from main dealership throughout and it's never had any issues since I bought it June 2019. At the time I thought I paid more than I should of done but its definately been worth what I paid. Only failing an MOT once for a the number plate light not working.
was it petrol or diesel just wondering about high mile cars myself?
Alex: Takes the oil cap off and checks fluids
Also Alex: Doesn't take the plastic cover off to look at the engine.
it isnt that easy on these mk5s the airfilter is integrated into the cover and you would need to disconnect all the pipes and getting it back on is a pain in the backside (speaking from experience)
@@Overland_RC yeah you just can't be sure with all these fake, speaker engine noises nowadays
j w bruh how would they put a speaker in the engine cover
check if the speaker is in a running condition
S19 Pajua r/woooosh
This was very useful since I'm looking to buy a mk5 gti. Thank you from South Africa🇿🇦
7:59
I'm from the US and I freaked out for a second thinking this dude was about to get into a head on collision lol
0:33 The dramatic and apprehensive handshake in the beginning just took on a whole new meaning during the pandemic lol
Who’s here when Jack’s VW got hit by a Royal Mail delivery truck
me!
Not been MOT'd since 2020 strange - looked a real nice car and video was released in 2019.
th-cam.com/video/qXhSAtaY9zw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HF-gGQx53wKgyIMY
Judging by the history of this channel, I don't think I trust Alex for advice on buying used cars.
as a used car dealer i see checking engine whether it is burning engine oil or not is the most important among all the points coz may potentially end up ur car going into a dumpyard
Wow a sponsor deal that's actually useful.
Lilmanike shut it u soppy old tart
@@CristianoRonaldo-jc8kn what’s wrong with you
Bought my car from a dealership and all the salesman kept doing during the test drive was talk loudly to me and insist the radio was played...pretented to like the song and turn it up a bit more. When I finally made him stop (it was hard believe me) I started to hear all the rattles!!! 😂
Worth pointing out, before any test drives on public roads make sure you have insurance, the car is taxed and has a valid MOT.
Most I care about are:
1. Is the body/ frame complete?
2. Oil ,fluids, how it runs after warming 5 to 10min(i like em runnin good)
3. Transmission fluid does it smell burnt( manual if you can check it.
4. most the cars/ Trucks i look at are 500 to 4k US Dollars so i like my cars a little bit on the trashy and patena side.
5. the little stuff likes lights, scratches, dents, brakes, wipers, bumpers, seats, tires can be replaced easily down the road. if it's over 5k Eu or US or more id worry because then your money better be worth it but if you like older cars like myself those are a normal replacement.
Next video:
I GOT SCAMMED
A good tip is to check what tyres are on the car.
If they're budget ones it shows the previous owner didn't put much money towards it.
If they're decent ones then they probably took decent care of the car.
Not always the case but more so on performance cars yes.
I've been selling cars for almost 3 years and I have never seen anyone check a used car this extensively. Thankfully I work for a reputable dealership lol!
Yeah I would feel a bit akward doing this many checks although I probobly should
When i make fix to my car i always take pictures and keep receipts, so when i do sell it i can show the new owner exactly what i did. Number plate and location always on pictures and before i clean the engine bay i always record it so new owner can see if there's any leaks. Or rather i just fix the leaks, so far no leaks on engine or under.
I wish everyone did this. I hate it when the previous owner doesn't pass on receipts and invoices from services and repairs over the years. Even if you self-service a car at home you can keep the receipts for parts purchased and note down the date and mileage at the time of fitting.
I checked nearly none of this when I bought my 56 plate golf GTI. Fair to say I've spent around £2000 on repairs and servicing 😭 had it 8 months and still love it regardless
I know to check this stuff but I always feel awkward at dealers checking every part of the car and end up leaving it short lol
Just say this is the first car I've looked at today I'll come back to this one later
Also check for bad oil leaks above & below after a run out and any leaking brake pipes and petrol pipes.
The owner could have wiped all the underneath dry beforehand.
Look for blue & white smoke from the exhaust at the rear at stand still & driving the car.
Give it a rev.
Any burning smells whilst driving the car like burning oil or petrol.
Gearstick movement & whining.
Check air con & sunroof if fitted for leaks.
Feel for any damp in floor wells from leaking window seals or leaking pipes inside.
Good video pointed mostly all the things to look out for.
Very information filled! Very good video as well in every aspect, I can always expect the best, and get the best from Car Throttel! Thanks Alex and the rest of the team!
You might also want to check for common issues on the internet, with the exact type of car you will be checking out, then check for those when looking at the car. The GTI on the video suffers from weak PCV and blow-off valve, the cam follower you should ask when was changed, also on the video is visible that the intake piping is broken, also a common issue with these cars. Ruff idle means coil pack, also common issue. And so on.
I own a MK5 GTI, from experience I can say, if you keep in check the common issues, it is a really fun and good car!
I laughed out loud at the beginning skit 😂
And at the part with the code scanner, because he said "it works for every vehicle after 1996" and I'm looking for a 1996 😂
I'm so glad this was done with an Mk5 Golf. I'm planning to get one of these for my first car. Though not a GTI, ofc.
Very informative video, Alex! Well done! I will send this to my niece who is buying her first car soon!
Bought myself a mk5 gti 5 doors in black, 56 plate. Had it for 15 days now and absolutely love it :D
lol, at 7:58 you can see some nice blue smoke from the exhaust (wich indicates that the engine is burning oil), thats a common problem with the 2.0 tfsi engines ;)
That seems fairly normal to me, For all you know that could have not cat.
@@theniceguy504 Its not at all normal. Your car is not supposed to burn oil. Only a worn out and poorly maintained engine burns oil and kicks out blue smoke. No car I own has ever used oil. I have had 1 oil leak from a valve cover gasket and that leak was so slow even if left a year the oil light would not come on.
I don't see anything
The FSI burns oil pretty badly. Also, the turbos go around 100,000 miles causing the smoke you claim to have seen.
I didn't do a lot of this and one of the brake callipers quickly was found to have seized up and the heater core has just died today. I've had the car for just under 4 months
starts at 1:00 !!!!
missing the critical bit though. 1) don't buy cars from public car parks, pubs etc, always from the sellers home (give you a good chance to judge how they look after other cars, houses, gardens etc). 2) never buy a car in the rain or one covered in water, 3) let the seller drive at some point, see if they rag it or not, 4) you mention the gearknob and steering wheel looking good, but more importantly do they match up to the mileage (knackered wheel and shifter, knackered seat bolsters, but only 30k on the clock, probably been clocked).
On a serious note. The 2.0tfsi engines somtimes have creamy gunk on the oil cap because of condensation and inturn is somtimes miss diagnosed as a blown headgasket! This can happenbecause of people doing lots of small journeys in there car and then not getting it to temp.
Worth noting that can happen with any car running short journeys!
Exactly. Short trips will do this.
Make sure Jack doesn't test drive the car. He might end up being a Royal Mail Truck ornament again
I’ve seen so many videos like these but when I bought my Integra I barely checked anything because I was so excited
Ngl i kinda did the same with my jetta gli
I've done it with many cars, literally clicked buy on eBay without seeing them, never really had many issues, the usual maintenance.
I would like to add, when you check for engine temperature, in some BMW:s for example the gauge is for oil temperature, for example an F30 320d, for that you want it to warm up to 100 degrees of celsius for the oil and preferrably stay there. Most cars with a coolant temperature gauge, they warm up to 90 degrees of celsius. You can see the difference in the icon if it's for oil or coolant.