Dolphin FPV flying wing : Day 3
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ย. 2020
- ► FLYING WING : AtomRC Dolphin : bit.ly/3kSxC01
INAV settings : Soon!
Wingspan : 84.5cm
Motor : Emax RS2306 2750kV bit.ly/3lNI76p
Batteries : Nanotech+ 4S 1300 or 1800 or 2200mAh 70C
Propeller : Dalprop Cyclone 5x4.6" (5046c) bit.ly/2Lpz6iq or 6x4 Dalprop
Speed controller : Red Brick 50A Opto bit.ly/2AxCnLE
Servos : Emax ES09MD II bit.ly/3lQeMrI
Flight controller : Matek F405-WING bit.ly/3lPPABJ
Radio system : FrSky Horus X12S R9M, R9slim+ 868MHz bit.ly/2rAyy3A
GPS : BN-880, with onboard HMC5883 compass bit.ly/2GpkyjZ
FPV transmitter : 5.8GHz EAchine ET526 bit.ly/2R12TTJ
Onboard HD+FPV cameras : Runcam Hybrid 4K bit.ly/2LD3HtZ 1080p-30
► FPV goggles : Fatshark HD v1 bit.ly/2A1eIzt
Video module : FuriousFPV True-D 3.8 diversity receiver bit.ly/2SSK6Hu
Antenna #1 : Foxeer Echo Patch 5.8 bit.ly/2LHZk0V
Antenna #2 : Foxeer Lollipop bit.ly/2BvewJ4
Antenna #3 : Aomway 11db 7 turns helical bit.ly/2S7z1T7
00:00 - - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Simplement magnifique boulot!
I love your attention to detail when you do these mods to improve strength etc
"hope for the best, plan for the worst"
I love how you are managing your INav and BLHeli profiles, their comparison and file . I'm just not sure how to do this myself. nice build. I am building a Nano Goblin at this time . Hopefully with as much detail.
Arctic Silver CPU paste! Love it! I have been wondering why the big ESC was in there, with a Red Bottom and a BEC on your FC for the servos. Great idea with the heatsink, (and the leftover carbon plates for the motor mount), *Brilliant!*
Je me suis inspiré de vos vidéos du Dolphin pour préparer le mien et il vole à merveille. Merci !
top!
nice build!
Love when tools are passed from father to son.
Damn.... Smooth dolphin 🔥
Dang, puttin work!
C'est propre. Je connaissais pas Winmerge. C'est pas mal pour comparer deux dumps.
oui super utile pour voir ce qui est nouveau, et à une époque il y avait des bugs sur la connexion USB qui causait des pertes partielles quand on collait les lignes dans la CLI, alors c'est devenu une habitude de vérifier si tout est bien à sa place, et de comparer avec les configs des autres avions
You got a new sub....mate !! You have some of the amazing content on TH-cam.....These wings are removable or not? Or did you glued them ?
thanks for watching ! Wings are removable, held by one M3 steel screw each. Mine are neither glued nor taped
Nice bird....
Joli ! je decouvre seulement cette aile soit un an apres toi ;) Pourrais tu faire une mise en service de Inav 3.0 .
Nice build！btw how did you do custom osd stuff in iNav？ quite interesting！
Like this : th-cam.com/video/LEjuBSccvGQ/w-d-xo.html
Bonjour Olivier! Don't know if you remember but we chatted about the Runcam Split when it was first released a few years ago. I've ordered a Dolphin (from AliExpress, as Banggood price has gone up), looking forward to it arriving. My first fixed wing since about 1995! Just wondering what your thoughts are on inav vs Ardupilot? A few people in the rcgroups thread seem to be scathing of inav but I know you've always used it.
I saw these messages... didn't want to argue, pointless... INAV has almost as many features as AP, and in my opinion has a much better stabilization. In the end its up to you to choose. At least the INAV pilots are not bad mouthing other flight systems like 5 years old kids :)
@@Olivier-C Sounds good. I've used Arupilot and inav on a 10" quad and had no problems with either. I love the slightly more refined feel of the inav/betaflight configurator, so thought I'd try inav on the dolphin when it arrives. I might have more questions for you at that stage!
Now thats what i call committing to a battery size.
Hi mate! Nice work you've done there! Which kind of pain did you use? I tried a bunch of sprays, aerosols, etc., but it always come off the foam. Thanks!
For this video it was acrylic paint , then coated with some Liquitex gloss varnish, but yeah it does not stick well on the long run,
i am ready for a little chase :D
Une fois de plus, tres cool à regarder. Question: Je suis intrigué par ton pistolet à colle chaude ? C'est quel modele de pistolet car j'ai jamais vu de bec tubulaire si long et fin. Merci d'avance !
C'est celui la, modèle de base que j'ai viré le bout en caoutchouc ! www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B072M9MJGQ/
@@Olivier-C excellent ! Trop malin, j’adore car j’en ai 2 pistolet à colle: 1 petit et 1 gros et les 2 sont nazes sur ce point ! je vais enlevé le caoutchouc pour mieux se faufiler. Merci de tes tips !
Very nice build! Are you using just standard hot glue?
Yes normal hot glue, 95% of cases, and epoxy if I need more strength or resistance to heat
@@Olivier-C Thanks, makes sense!
Hey! Love your videos! Did you glue the nose or leave it just with magnets?
it holds with tape (on the outside), the magnets are not strong enough
Salut Olivier. Tu entoures les cables du Rx avec de l alu ? C est pour isoler des interférences ? Tu fais comment stp. Super ta video comme d'hab continue :)
yo! merci! l'alu c'est surtout parce que c'est ce que j'avais sous la main qui colle le plus, le scotch transparent ne tient pas toujours très bien sur ces mousses. Après si ca peut blinder un peu.... en y croyant fort peut-etre ça doit faire quelque chose, mais ce n'est pas le but principal :)
@@Olivier-C 🤣🤣 Merci. En tout cas super boulot. Je suis entrain de finir le mien et je vais suivre ce que tu montes pour du long range. Je pensais à un 2400 ou 2500 kv
Why a high kv motor?
Does inav really take so long or you are very particular?
hi... how you paint the epp? and whats type of paint do u use?
Thats some acrylic paint,sprayed with a compressor, but generally speaking it does not stick well over time. Helps to protect with clear film or a gloss varnish
I have never known any rc airplane person who wants to take space away from their battery compartment?!
My thoughts also.
Hello
The stock 30A esc is enougt with 4s battery and 5 or 6 inch propeller?
depends of the motor, but 30A is not a lot... if you don't go full throttle for too long it should be ok
can you share diff all settings?
FULL : bit.ly/3moOCNm / DIFF : bit.ly/3lctiZS
@@Olivier-C thank you my friend.
Wish it had English subtitles:(
Apologies in advance, but most of the wrok you have done on this build was very sloppy and not thought through step-by-step.
Let's start with the camera moounting: There was no need to cut the front section off at all. All you needed to do is to mark the opening that you cut at the end from the top, then fit the camera from the inside with the cable attached, and then glue after you have fed it throught. Also, the PCB of the camera gets very hot. I suggest adding a small heat sink to the main IC on that board or you could fry it, especially considering that you have alsmot no airflow over it for coling.
Next, the dipole antenna: This could have been placed elsewhere and I am sure there is an opening for that already. Mounting the lollipop from the bottom to avoid dead spots when flying above your head is a good idea and I have done the same on some of my models, but you will damage the antenna for certain on your first non-grass landing. I have mounted mine internally, but that;s because I have the space in the Ranger 2000 fuselage. In your case, there is a reason why the manufacturer has made the opening on the top and not on the bottom.
Next was mounting the flight controller: Why on earth would you have it to the side and not centrered to the aircraft? The IMU needs to be placed as close to the centreline as possible so that your PID controller can work correctly. Also, the FC isn't even rotated 270deg. It was rotated at some angle above/below that, but it was not even orthogonal to the centerline of the aircraft.
Regarding, the motor mount: You had so much space BEFORE gluing in that stupid plywood part, why didn't you cut out a circle from carbon fiber (perhaps slightly larger) and then glue that part into the back. There would have been no need to cut open the back and then glue a pirece of carbon fiber that doesen't even match the outline of what you have cut.
Finally, the paintwork: Painting should be the last step, not the first. You made so many cuts after the aircraft was painted, it completely ruined your paintjob. Also, why add varnish AND clear tape at the same time. You don't need the varnish at the end, it just adds unncessary weight.
The only partially good idea: The battery sides of the battery holder. having the battery not move around is a very good idea, but glueing everything in with hot glue is not a good idea. You could have made the two side parts as separate components and then stick them with double-sided tape. That way you can remove them non-destructively if you need to in the future.
Honestly, you could have done a much better and cleaner job at this....
Bonjour Olivier, Je ne vois pas de sélection pour le magnétomètre, c'est n'est pas utile avec le BN880 ?
Pas obligé de mettre le mag sur les avions, contrairement aux quads. C'est meme conseillé de ne pas l'activer, pour eviter divers problemes potentiels
@@Olivier-C C'est quoi alors l'intérêt du BN 880 ? Pourquoi pas un BN 220 sans la boussole ?
@@patricehonvault2612 Oui un 220ca suffit. L interet du 880 c est que le mag est la si besoin ou pour mettre sur un quad
Ok merci. Je suis en train de paramétrer une Matek F405 wings pour l'installer sur un Dolphin, alors je me demandais s'il fallait un BN 880 ou non.
@+ Patrice
Encore une petite question, tu ne mets pas de condensateur sur l'ESC, pas de problème avec ta vidéo analogique ?
salut
a 10:00 c'est quoi ces réglages aux ? svp
Les aux c'est la correspondance entre les canaux venant du recepteur et les modes de vol
@@Olivier-C c'est marrant car j'ai jamais fais mes correspondance avec le cli, toujours avec la radio. merci pour votre reponse
@@sylvain5521 et comme ca ne change jamais d'un modele a l'autre on gagne un temps fou :)
@@Olivier-C ha ok j'ai compris ! pas bete ;) open TX offre une interface comme ca, par faut savoir ce que l'on fait.
Meine ist neuere
I have the same strippers mine finally broke 😂😂
c'est trop reposant cette vidéo