I have a new battery with the same issue. It was 4.5V out of the box. In lithium mode it flashes green and red and won't charge, in normal 12V mode it charged only to 6.5V and won't go over that. Definitely faulty from the factory.
From what I have heard the actual BMS pcb in these batteries also cause a slight drain. So theoretically even if you disconnect the battery and leave it in the bike you will still have an issue as the BMS will run it down eventually. Which begs the question where is the BMS system in power tools? In the battery or in the tool?
little clock would draw uA of power, not the issue. the battery will have a BMS circuit trying to keep the batteries in balance, that takes a small amount of power. over time it will drain the battery. there are smart BMS circuits with auto cutoff at 2.5V/cell to protect the battery but maybe not this one. best to charge the battery to 80% every month while in storage/not in use.
I little bit of draw on ANY battery will drain it over time........................................Nice to see Noco stood behind it, even though you killed it. That being said, the Battery control module should have shut off the battery draw when it dropped below 3v. But below 3v, Lithium batteries are all but dead anyway.
The B.M.S. inside the battery ITSELF draws some power from the cells even when it's not connected up to anything. That IS why it is recommended to recharge a Lithium battery with a proper charger once a month when in storage.
Your battery shutdown to protect the individual cells within the battery. The BMS triggered a low voltage cutoff condition. The BMS will also protect from over voltage. To correct and wake up the battery jump it from a regular 12v battery or an old school charger that will deliver 12 volts. Always charge the battery with a charger designed for Lithium. A traditional battery tender will destroy the battery when the charger starts the anti-sulfating mode. Lithium doesn’t like this and will damage the individual cells.
Its not a lipo. Different chemistry. Also, the bms has a low voltage shut off. Depending on programming it will restart. Noco does ok but when it turns back on it pulls a drain of its own. After a few restarts it will not have enough juice and just stay off. Showing 0.0 volts. Open it up, hit it with 12 volts and you are back at it. Until it kills its self again.
I have an NLP30 and I am starting to think that I need to get some of the smaller sizes to test out because of people complaining about them failing or being DOA. I don't use normal battery chargers, I either use a 45 amp RV power converter or a bench power supply which in my case is a DPH3205 (0-32 volts, 0-5 amps) buck-boost DC-DC converter which I am powering with either a Lenovo 170 watt laptop power brick for mains AC use or an 18v power tool battery for mobile use. The 30 has been great, I used it in a 5th gen Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 just to see what would happen. I looked up the stall current of the starter motor first to make sure that it was less than the 700 amps that the 30 is rated for and it is. It works fine but between the high underhood temps and the 160 amp alternator which means up to a 20c charge rate for an 8 Ah battery I erred on the side of caution and removed it. I then tried it in a lawn tractor where it was great and then we took it with us while travelling for the solar eclipse and I used it to jump start a guy's 4 cylinder car. It is for now plugged in to the always on power socket of our other van via a lighter plug to ring terminal cable from a power inverter and a 15-0-15 ammeter. Since it is in the interior on the floorboard it won't get too hot and the resistance of the factory wiring is enough that even while cranking the ammeter doesn't quite peg at -15 amps and only goes to +5ish amps while running, both well within the safe limits of any LiFePO4 battery of this capacity. Since this chemistry has a slightly higher and flatter discharge voltage curve than lead-acid it is essentially just always keeping the van's stock SLI battery at full charge by supplying the parasitic loads while sitting parked. The first van did drain it to BMS shutdown once but the power supply woke it back up and charged it just fine. So in short I'm now wondering if the smaller sizes just have an issue with waking back up after BMS shutdown or if I'm the only one using a power supply and these "dead" units aren't actually dead, just sleeping. I noticed that you didn't say if you metered the terminal voltage with the charger in force mode to make sure that it was acting like a dumb power supply and blindly putting out over 13 volts. If it did indeed put out that voltage and the BMS stayed asleep then that is a problem. I do have one genuine complaint about these though, Noco should have just given them a power delivery capable USB-C port with a waterproof cover to allow charging them from any USB source. They could have even acted as a power bank.
Tender all winter. If it's too dead to charge, put it in a freezer for 2 hours and thaw it out. That will give it a tiny bit of charge and it will be enough for the charger to detect and then charge properly
If this happens to anyone else and your lithium battery won't charge, it's due to a low voltage safety. Simply use a regular 12v battery to turn the charger on. Hook up.your lithium charger to the dead lithium, use a set of jumper cables/wires from a known charged 12v battery and touch + to + and - to the - from charges battery to dead lithium, it'll kick your charger on and charge your dead lithium back to full charge. Hope this helps, if it doesn't, your lithium battery is likely defective due to allowing it to go too low. Edit- apologies to the gentleman. I just heard him advise against this practice, I'm in garage doing it now and my NocoNL5 is fine. I'm searching recommended charge rate, as Im charging it with my Dakota Lithium charger at a rate of 13.8. I have a Go Lithium battery and charger as well that charger a bit more, but...Im being safe. Thanks all.
LiPo batteries in that condition require a special "conditioning" charger. I had something similar happen with an electric motorcycle I had. Standard chargers won't work.
The Genius 5 charger in recovery mode is supposed to do that. Obviously no good in this case, or not as effective as something designed to do exactly that. Thanks for watching.
@@Chris_Does_Everything any updates on your battery? I now have 3 NLP 9 units at home, all of them are dead at 0.0V and my Genius5 won't reset them. Two of those batteries are brand new, never used.... Thinking that Noco might actually be a scam..
I have had this a couple of times. I think modern chargers too clever. Simply put on old fashioned charger for a few minutes, or jump with another battery. Then swop back to a lithium charger. I wouldn’t leave them long/or unsupervised though!
@@jimmybrad156You really don't want to force up to 600+ amps into the Lithium battery if it will accept it.... 💥 I myself use a current limited power supply of about 5 amps to jump a Lithium battery back to life.
I have a new battery with the same issue. It was 4.5V out of the box. In lithium mode it flashes green and red and won't charge, in normal 12V mode it charged only to 6.5V and won't go over that. Definitely faulty from the factory.
From what I have heard the actual BMS pcb in these batteries also cause a slight drain. So theoretically even if you disconnect the battery and leave it in the bike you will still have an issue as the BMS will run it down eventually. Which begs the question where is the BMS system in power tools? In the battery or in the tool?
little clock would draw uA of power, not the issue. the battery will have a BMS circuit trying to keep the batteries in balance, that takes a small amount of power. over time it will drain the battery. there are smart BMS circuits with auto cutoff at 2.5V/cell to protect the battery but maybe not this one. best to charge the battery to 80% every month while in storage/not in use.
I little bit of draw on ANY battery will drain it over time........................................Nice to see Noco stood behind it, even though you killed it.
That being said, the Battery control module should have shut off the battery draw when it dropped below 3v. But below 3v, Lithium batteries are all but dead anyway.
The B.M.S. inside the battery ITSELF draws some power from the cells even when it's not connected up to anything.
That IS why it is recommended to recharge a Lithium battery with a proper charger once a month when in storage.
I got the same problem,dead NLP14 for only 3-4 month of sleep in my garage. this is worse than AGM.
Your battery shutdown to protect the individual cells within the battery. The BMS triggered a low voltage cutoff condition. The BMS will also protect from over voltage. To correct and wake up the battery jump it from a regular 12v battery or an old school charger that will deliver 12 volts.
Always charge the battery with a charger designed for Lithium. A traditional battery tender will destroy the battery when the charger starts the anti-sulfating mode. Lithium doesn’t like this and will damage the individual cells.
Its not a lipo. Different chemistry.
Also, the bms has a low voltage shut off. Depending on programming it will restart. Noco does ok but when it turns back on it pulls a drain of its own. After a few restarts it will not have enough juice and just stay off. Showing 0.0 volts. Open it up, hit it with 12 volts and you are back at it. Until it kills its self again.
I have an NLP30 and I am starting to think that I need to get some of the smaller sizes to test out because of people complaining about them failing or being DOA. I don't use normal battery chargers, I either use a 45 amp RV power converter or a bench power supply which in my case is a DPH3205 (0-32 volts, 0-5 amps) buck-boost DC-DC converter which I am powering with either a Lenovo 170 watt laptop power brick for mains AC use or an 18v power tool battery for mobile use.
The 30 has been great, I used it in a 5th gen Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 just to see what would happen. I looked up the stall current of the starter motor first to make sure that it was less than the 700 amps that the 30 is rated for and it is. It works fine but between the high underhood temps and the 160 amp alternator which means up to a 20c charge rate for an 8 Ah battery I erred on the side of caution and removed it.
I then tried it in a lawn tractor where it was great and then we took it with us while travelling for the solar eclipse and I used it to jump start a guy's 4 cylinder car.
It is for now plugged in to the always on power socket of our other van via a lighter plug to ring terminal cable from a power inverter and a 15-0-15 ammeter. Since it is in the interior on the floorboard it won't get too hot and the resistance of the factory wiring is enough that even while cranking the ammeter doesn't quite peg at -15 amps and only goes to +5ish amps while running, both well within the safe limits of any LiFePO4 battery of this capacity. Since this chemistry has a slightly higher and flatter discharge voltage curve than lead-acid it is essentially just always keeping the van's stock SLI battery at full charge by supplying the parasitic loads while sitting parked.
The first van did drain it to BMS shutdown once but the power supply woke it back up and charged it just fine.
So in short I'm now wondering if the smaller sizes just have an issue with waking back up after BMS shutdown or if I'm the only one using a power supply and these "dead" units aren't actually dead, just sleeping. I noticed that you didn't say if you metered the terminal voltage with the charger in force mode to make sure that it was acting like a dumb power supply and blindly putting out over 13 volts. If it did indeed put out that voltage and the BMS stayed asleep then that is a problem.
I do have one genuine complaint about these though, Noco should have just given them a power delivery capable USB-C port with a waterproof cover to allow charging them from any USB source. They could have even acted as a power bank.
Tender all winter.
If it's too dead to charge, put it in a freezer for 2 hours and thaw it out. That will give it a tiny bit of charge and it will be enough for the charger to detect and then charge properly
NO.... NEVER freeze Lithium batterys....
That IS a no-no
If this happens to anyone else and your lithium battery won't charge, it's due to a low voltage safety. Simply use a regular 12v battery to turn the charger on. Hook up.your lithium charger to the dead lithium, use a set of jumper cables/wires from a known charged 12v battery and touch + to + and - to the - from charges battery to dead lithium, it'll kick your charger on and charge your dead lithium back to full charge. Hope this helps, if it doesn't, your lithium battery is likely defective due to allowing it to go too low.
Edit- apologies to the gentleman. I just heard him advise against this practice, I'm in garage doing it now and my NocoNL5 is fine. I'm searching recommended charge rate, as Im charging it with my Dakota Lithium charger at a rate of 13.8. I have a Go Lithium battery and charger as well that charger a bit more, but...Im being safe. Thanks all.
Your boost pack has a force mode jump start the bike actually ride for half an hour then put it on the charger if it happens again
a bench power supply for something like 50-100 dollars should do the trick; set it to 13.8v and limit the current to an amp or two.
LiPo batteries in that condition require a special "conditioning" charger. I had something similar happen with an electric motorcycle I had. Standard chargers won't work.
The Genius 5 charger in recovery mode is supposed to do that. Obviously no good in this case, or not as effective as something designed to do exactly that. Thanks for watching.
@@Chris_Does_Everything any updates on your battery? I now have 3 NLP 9 units at home, all of them are dead at 0.0V and my Genius5 won't reset them. Two of those batteries are brand new, never used.... Thinking that Noco might actually be a scam..
I have had this a couple of times. I think modern chargers too clever.
Simply put on old fashioned charger for a few minutes, or jump with another battery. Then swop back to a lithium charger.
I wouldn’t leave them long/or unsupervised though!
i was gonna say just use jumper cables to put it across a car battery, then i read your comment :)
@@jimmybrad156You really don't want to force up to 600+ amps into the Lithium battery if it will accept it.... 💥
I myself use a current limited power supply of about 5 amps to jump a Lithium battery back to life.
Love that v65!
👍
Or.... Just unhook the battery 😅
Great point! Thanks for watching