Years ago when I started driving truck, and older guy told me "You can go around a curve or down a hill a thousand times too slow... But you might only do it once too fast". Something I have always remembered.
Out West, watch for the valley temperature INVERSION. Quick story, back in the 1970's, snowing hard, dropped over the summit of the Siskiyou's (I-5 Cali./Oregon border) pulled off the chains in a steady rain. Crept down full Jakes at about 25 (7 miles 6%) Near bottom, started a roll out up to 60 when the two cars that just passed spun and left the highway. Jakes on, instantly, engine went to an idle! Sliding on solid black ice! Jammed in the clutch, let er roll, pulled the trailer hand valve, couldn't stop for the POE scale, slid right on by. The cold air had slid into and got trapped in the valley! An INVERSION!
Coming down the 4th of July in idaho i started to jack knife, accelerated got it straightened out eased over to the shoulder slowed down to about 5-10 mph and creeped down to the bottom, got to the bottom and cleaned out the 20 lbs of excrement that had built up in my britches over the past hour
I have been driving a Class-A semi-truck for over 25 years with over 2 million miles on the road. I'm still driving today. I work in Alaska where I pull doubles, which is two 45' trailers between Anchorage, Homer, and Fairbanks, AK year round. The one thing that I'm 100% sure of is that you cannot teach a "know-it-all" anything. My words are not directed towards the creator of this video... Now, for all of you who want to learn: prudent speed, common sense, patience and practice make a driver successful. With that being said, the Jake on any setting doesn't cause a jackknife because the engine's computer momentarily pauses the Jake for a short period of time when it senses a loss of traction, and re-applies when there is traction. If no traction is found, it will pause again, and again. A jackknife is cause by imprudent speed and the driver over-breaking because over-breaking means "NO" traction. If a tire is no longer turning, it can no longer grab the surface of the road/snow/ice. Yes, I said ICE. Ask yourself, what's the ''MOST'' important gauge on your dash panel? "Outside Air Temperature Gauge" is the correct answer! When temps drop below the danger zone, which is between 38 - 28 degrees, ice becomes tacky on the roads surface due to the warm tires and cold ice. It's like that "know-it-all" that stuck their tongue on the metal pole during a cold winter day! :) It's okay to use the brakes, but you cannot apply the brakes for too long and you should use the brakes sooner rather than later, which is to say that you need to anticipate and plan BEFORE you enter a curve and BEFORE you begin a decent. You can always speed up, but you cannot always slow down.
One thing some new guys don't really understand very well, once you pull away from the dock, it's the driver who's solely responsible for the safe operation of the truck and payload. Excuses don't cut it. It happens rarely, I think twice in my career did I do this, I called dispatch and said, I'm waiting for awhile, for plowtrucks, sanders, etc. Sometimes the best way to handle a route in poor shape, is to wait. Yes you're going to encounter some resistance, but I countered with something along the lines of, "You pay me to get the load from A to B. You trust me to do it a safe and profitable manner. Any other time, you accept my opinion, my opinion is late fees are a hell of a lot cheaper than insurance claims and fines. Great video!
This man knows his stuff, i have driven all 48 plus canada in snow and ice, sometimes i should have parked it, but kept on truckin, his methods WORK, used them myself many times. 22 years and over 1 million miles safely.
I drive a log truck in and around the Oregon Cascades. Here's my 2 cents: (These tips do not pertain to off-road driving). I'll start by saying this: Try to stay as far from other travellers as possible. AVOID THE PACK! Put your chains on BEFORE you need them. Know how to install them properly. As to engine braking....I'll use my jake when descending an icy or snow-covered grade under certain conditions. 1) If my drivers are chained up I prefer to use my jake rather than my foot pedal because I know that the braking will be going to the wheels with the most traction. It's important that your power divider be engaged for this. 2) If I am barefoot I will not use my jake unless there is plenty of gravel or salt on the road. Even then, I use it on a lower setting and I have my foot hovering over the throttle, with my hand on the hand valve. Again, use your power divider. In general, I will both ascend or descend a slick pass by staying out of the main traveled part of the road. I stay out of the wheel tracks because that area tends to be the slickest and the first to get the gravel or salt kicked off. Often I will put my r/h drivers near the fog line because that's where the gravel gets kicked over to. FTR, I've been drving since 1978... aside from the odd bumper or wrinkled fender... I've never had a wreck.
That advice is worth way more than 2 cents, it's invaluable. There's no substitute for experience and skill and stuff like that cannot be learned in a classroom. Thanks for the comment Mike! Dave
after 45 years of truckin i will say that you are exactly right. keep your rpm down and the jake on low. i always tried to keep about 30 or 35 mph so i didnt have to use the foot brakes. and stay well away from the pack...especially the 4 wheelers. they will screw you up pretty quick.
I've never been down a mountain in the snow and ice. Makes me nervous. I just went through the California mountains for the first time and I was super nervous. But I think I handled it well. There were trucks blowing by me on a 6% grade and I just took it easy. I'm alive and I'm happy about that.
Driving in the snow not only driving slow I always kept my rpms at about 1600 no matter the gear. I rarely broke loose and it gave me the chance to slow down a lot faster if something were to happen. Drives were locked in and Jake on low going down hill and soft braking at about 20-25mph on my route.
I my many years with heavy loads, one problem I found was that my AIR SUSPENSION adjusting on my drives, constantly adjusting to weight, as I hauled liquid gasses. In many tricky up grades I drop my tractor air bags (for a short time) to maintain a more constant weight balance which allowed both drive axles to maintain a constant traction pressure during a hard climb while following your description of fuel and appropriate gear selection. This has saved me many times. And above all, keep your good buddy radio up, know what's ahead of you and be prepared and don't over react.
1) the "interlock" is often called a "Diff-Lock" and it syncronizes the differentials. 2) there is also a forward diff and rear diff axle lock. 3) DO NOT use BOTH axle locks on icy surfaces except at extremely low speeds. If both axle locks are engaged and the diff lock is also engaged, everything moves together, and the vehicle has tendency to move in one direction -- straight forward. Icy / mud / snotty conditions will eliminate steering control. 4) Being an experienced gravel hauler driving on ice / mud / snot, the lower the gear going up or down the better. Often 1st gear and all locked up at 1000 rpm will keep you moving. 5) DO NOT USE THE JAKE it will lock up your wheels!!!
NICE VIDEO! MY GRANDFATHER DROVE A TRACTOR TRAILER FOR 53 YEARS, AND NEVER HAD AN ACCIDENT, NOT SO MUCH AS BENT A MIRROR! MUCH RESPECT TO THE DRIVERS ALL OVER THE US FOR GETTING PRODUCTS TO OUR PEOPLE. GOD BLESS YOU ALL, THANK YOU, AND BE SAFE OUT THERE!
My dad has never had a accident in a truck he's been drive 25 years he did however get his mirror hit by a guy in the truck stop he was in a space and the other guy was backing in
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You! You have been the first person that has actually tackled this subject of driving in winter weather. This is my first year as a otr truck driver( I've had my CDL for over 15 years), and I could not get any good tips of how to drive in winter weather with a tractor-trailer. I have subscribed to your channel and will be looking for more tips on winter driving.
Belinda Lacey Glad to know you were able to get some value from the video, Belinda. Remember, I'm not a driving school instructor.... I've been driving for over 35 years and have driven all sorts of terrain, equipment and weather, so these are guidelines, not hard and fast rules. (Dave)
I been there man... if you haven't done it before your nervous as a dog shittin razor blades. I pulled double hoppers in ID, MT, WA, OR, WY, NV, and CA I drove truck in other states but these are particularly known for steep passes. And I have spun out before a couple of times once by Ashton, ID and another time on a hill by Norris, MT. and those are hills and not really big passes. I usually throw chains on at my own discretion If the weather is bad regardless of there's a chain up requirement, just to be on the safe side, but conditions change fast. Another thing that helps is CB communication with other drivers. That's helped me immensely....So yeah I hear ya, it can get pretty hairy during the winter months out west. Thanks for the vid and stay safe out there.
AWESOME advice!!! I always use the egg under foot scenario for students. ALWAYS act like there's an egg under your foot, and NEVER put enough pressure to break the egg. I'm not a fan of using an engine brake in foul weather. But, I've been out of trucking for over 10 years, so I don't know if engine braking has evolved to something safer. Slow down and leave more distance. If you find yourself not feeling OK under 30MPH, GET OFF THE ROAD! I LOVE the higher RPM gear choice! I know some drivers want to keep low RPMs, but in the 18+ years of driving, accident-free, I found keeping the gearing in the high RPM band MUCh safer.
All good stuff--just remember when you have the power divider locked in and you are in a turn at low speed that pwoer divider has a tendency to drive your tractor straight ahead thru the curve instead of around it.
thank you so much for this! Been driving for a year now (in canada) had my share of snow but also wheel locking when braking or wheel spinning while going uphill. I drive tankers with 3, 4 axles and also b-trains; none has baffles. Extra care has to be done with b-trains as all the liquid will slosh around when accelerating, braking or turning. With them tankers the liquid will travel to the back when going uphill and make you loose even more traction as the weight on the pulling axles is lifted up. Slow and gradual is the motto. Don't let anybody bully you, trucks, 4-wheelers, buses. No cargo is worth your life.
Lots of really good things covered in this video and I especially like the emphasis on staying higher in RPMs; it's such a good practice for not only the reason that you mention with over spinning but also in the fact that it really limits the power that is getting to the wheels and there is less of a chance to overpower the traction that you do have when it's necessary to use more throttle. I live in the mountains myself and see so many people do so many things wrong during winter conditions because they aren't properly educated in best practices.
This is a great learning tool but as for me , driving in the Pacific NW and Canadian Rockies NEVER use the Jacobs Brake. Same goes with the Cruise Control any time it's slippery in snow or heavy rain don't use it. All lower 48 but NYC I drove and I hate city streets driving a OTR full size rig people are crazy to think they can squeeze by on the suicide side while your doing a jug handle right turn!! Stay safe drivers, keep the shiny side up and the greasy side down y'all.
Good Video, Just remember: Do make sure you know how to chain up if driving in Canada. Few years back a driver died on the highway in Northern BC cause he didn't know how to chain up. And it's always best to chain up BEFORE you need to.
Jakes can get you in trouble if you aren't careful. It's best to use the lowest setting and if you have diff locks, disengage them. I keep the inter axle lock engaged so I'm using at least two drive tires out of the four. If I'm in a truck with three drive axles, the same applies. Easy on the brakes and keep your speeds down. And don't be afraid to chain up. Sliding back down a steep grade backwards because you've started spinning halfway up is a bad deal.
If I use an engine brake going down hill in the snow I'll generally switch to fewer banks than all three. Slow is great advice, but I've seen guys get into trouble by going too slow. I like to think "tippy toe" down slippery slopes just like walking down hill on a slippery sidewalk. Neither too slow nor too fast. you experienced drivers understand I'm sure. Finally I'd like to add when descending a slippery hill especially if your tractor or trailer breaks loose always remember "more thinking and less feeling". It's easy to make crazy decisions if you're fixated on being freaked out. Great vid as always....
Colorado high mountain trucker here. I ran a gasoline tanker over the Rockies Everyday. For 5 years. I went up to 11,991 ft. Above Sea level every day, twice. Out and back. It was an adventure
back in the 70's ran 90-94 from Minnesota to Seattle or Portland every week. Montana will teach you to drive in the winter. I loved every minute of it. However Look Out Pass will dirty your pants if you don't watch it. Stay in the white stuff was our motto.
Hello Smart-trucking.com: I am not a trucker, but ran across some trucker videos on youtube, i particular yours. Even though your videos are mainly aimed at trucker or would be truckers, i have enjoyed them. In addition have learn some things that i can apply to my own driving my personal car on the road, plus a trucker point of view about the road. Keep the good work.
Very *good advice driver. "Making your own trail" works for me as well in my POV in snow. Keeping my "rolling traction" is near the top for slippery roads whether snow or mud. I went to a driving school for my CDL. Not a shake and bake school either but a 6 or 7 month course. Of course it helps having the right tractor...I see you're in a PETE with a Jake. They had 2 Pete's w/Jake at my school so I have a thing for an old Pete. My personal truck has an electric speed retarder and I often use it on exit ramps to slow without braking. I learned in school if it takes 3rd to reach the top I go down in 4th till I'm out of the pass. Driving this way I never had a lick of trouble and saved my brakes too.* *Great tutorial. Too bad the 4 wheelers most seem to suffer driving like a fool.*
Thank you I needed this video. My company sent me for a Hazmat clean up job on a diesel tank at the Cupertino Mine in San Jose in our tanker and the hill was so steep that unfortunately I couldn’t climb the mountain due to spinning out ( I tried to take it in 4th). The mechanic ended up taking the truck up the mountain but it’s been on the back of my mind since that’s one of our common clients that one day I’m going to conquer that steep hill lol.
i didnt like your vids when i first starting looking at driving vids, but i have come to like you very educational and tutorial method. you present yourself as a true professional. thank you
I've never had a problem with jake on wet or snow while loaded.. While empty, now that is an oh shit moment when you forget the jake was on going down a slippery hill with no weight in your trailer... I live in Canada and drove on roads just like you see in this video..
many good tips, in norway we have some more tricks in the box though. on 6x4 trucks we rig the suspention so we can dump the air out of the last drive axle so most of the weight is one one of the drives. thats very neat when not so heavy and lack traction. also lifting the first axle on the trailer puts more weight in the truck. auto chains and sand boxes many also use. and studed proper nordic winter tyres :)
I'm driving a 6x4 truck in Iceland and have both the air dump on the rear drive axle and the axle lift on the trailer, it works wonders as I can put about 17 metric tons (close to 37,500 lbs) on the front drive axle, as well as having full lockers. I've never used auto chains or sand boxes though, but chains are essential during the winter here as even the 17 tons don't always do the trick.
I love watching your channel. I'm new to trucking and when you're new you get all kinds of advice but it isn't always good. Not only do you explain what you are doing. You show it. Plus you being in Canada THE GREAT WHITE NORTH to me. I'm all ears and eyes. Thank you what you are doing.
Slow and planning i agree. However i only use the clutch from standong starts and use 200 to 400 rpm split between speed shifts depending on grade slope. I thankyou for all of your postings. Here is hoping that new drivers watch them. WELL DONE
Some of these tips I've already used in my personal vehicle. Going slower also gives you plenty of time and distance to get yourself in the best position while descending and going around curves.
locking interaxel jn gives you one wheel on each axle driving. you can get full locking differentials that can give you three, four or in the case of tri drive 6 wheels driving. nothing wrong with jaking downhills if you start jack knifing a little fuel and a bit of pressure on your trailer brakes will straighten you right up. driving in the higher RPM range you're more likely to spin. you're in the power band. at lower RPM more torque less zing. I only drove logging truck (7 axle) off road in B.C. mountains for five years and another five or so hauling super B's through the mountains. But I maintain 1 year driving off road will teach you as much about hills and adverse road conditions as ten on the highway. you're going up and down grades that would never be found on highways on roads that are barely one lane wide with 100 foot drops on either side, the advice I give is not only what I found but what I was told by guys who had been driving in the bush for 40 plus years. watch highway through hell the those are not the worst roads in BC by a long shot.
I'm a recent CDL driver, and always like to listen and observe the old school drivers a lot, CDL Schools teach just the basic for you to Pass the exam but these encounters you May experience on the Road with snow, steep hills ect no better teachers than the old timers for that, they been through it all
also don't use engine braking on the way down since it's only on your drive axle. Better to use the foot brake which applies to all axles evenly. If you use the jake brake your drive axles may break traction and then your trailer will try to push you sideways
Thank you so much for great advice on Snow/ ice road conditions. YES the SLOW going down is so important. Everyone thinks today that they must be there faster. Just remember the Load being jacknife. A police investigation is not getting your load delivered. Being late if a mountain pass has lots of snow, is the most important thing.
I've also found that you wanna be going slow at the top when you start going downhill,you can always speed up but sometimes you can't slow down without sliding.
All good advice. I have found in my 43 yrs off and on that in the winter I will back my front brakes off. Braking on slick roads the fronts will lock up before the rears when braking. I do this incase the drivers lock up and I have to feed fuel while braking when the drivers brake loose so I can still steer. I powerdivider or interlock will generally lock up one wheel on each rearend. If you have lockers (which will give you 3 or 4 wheel drive depending on whether you have one or both axles) on sick roads will have a tendency to push you straight and make it harder to turn a corner. Like Calvin said you can always speed up going down hill but not always slow down. If I have any question about slick roads I will put the proper amount of chains on, they are much cheaper than the alternative. The worst thing about learning to drive in our area is that old drivers don't talk to the new drivers like they did when I learned. Glad to see everyone talking. Something that works for one driver does not always work for all. Take your time and find out what is best for you. Safe journey people. God bless
That advice works if you have heavy load over the drive axles. If you don't have weight, you are better off with higher gear/lower rpm. With passenger vehicles, always shift up to highest gear possible without lugging or stalling to get the best traction.
Good stuff here as we get closer to the fun season. For those in the lower 48, the best advice when it snows is to GET OFF the road before it gets bad. 1. The worst motorists ALWAYS make themselves a problem and then YOU get the blame - but lawyers see truck accidents as BIG payoffs. 2. Most highways have snow plows and salt. Let them do their job while you relax over coffee, fattening snacks, and email. 3. If you think of it - driving 20 mph on an icy highway for 2 hours is stupid. Not only do you expose yourself to fender benders in that big convoy of nervous brake happy heroes, but your pay has just dropped down to minimum wage and you burned up driving time you may need. Once cleared and salted, you can cover that same distance they did in about 39 minutes doing 65 mph with less stress and fuel.
Interlock or interaxle only locks tires in a line or across, one tire on each axle, front and back, or one back right tire and one front fwd tire cross from back thats why u can still steer! Differential lock locks all wheels together! And u dont wanna use it on dry ground! You'll snap a axle cause they are all locked!
You are correct on every point. I cannot recall which interstate I was on but I was descending very steeply into Pendleton Oregon on black ice and snow for miles. I did not use my jake break but I drove my rig VERY slowly with very gentle control inputs and got to the bottom of the decent ok. I would be lying if I were to tell you I wasn't a little scared. I was very challenged with that ride but I learned from that event how to handle a very heavy big rig with climbing and descending on snow and ice.
Yup. That's cabbage hill. From top to bottom (or bottom to top), you can have several different weather conditions in the same descent (ascent). Snow, ice, rain, freezing rain, fog, freezing fog, and plain old dry sunshine. Particularly nasty stretch of highway. Not one you want to be caught off-guard on.
Everything he said is true I was coming Down the Cabbage snow and ice with A heavy load was going slow and still Was speeding up so I remember what This Gentleman had said about the Jake brake in low I engage it was scared his Information save my a !!! Thanks Driver you are the best.
another old trick is to turn it on every time you head down a big hill in warm weather, Jake's work off oil pressure, climbing the hill your oil is hot and thin, having the engine fan on going down along with the Jake cools the oil down and makes the Jake more efficient.
You don't want that peak torque curve when you're ice. Which depending on the engine is usually around 1200 RPM. Not just because you don't want the RPM to jump. You also don't want to be running your RPM too high though because if you start jack knifing, you can use your trailer brakes and throttle to power out of it if the circumstances are right. Nice video, great tips.
Good vid ..good advice ..climing hi rpm above power band down hill single phase Jake's if bad enough never touch trailer brake!...if you can brake with left foot for constant brake pressure down shifting or up. 70 percent of jackknifes I've seen not enough grease on fifth wheel..do a video on importance of grease..I run wrecker on elk mtn seen a lot of jackknifes! Hope a lot of new guys watch your stuff..good advice!
Jake break in the winter can be bad news, I've done p&d single axle driving for the past two years up in the mountains no chains and some dangerous roads. Was trying to creep down a hill in 5th gear no jake break and barely using the breaks trailer pushed me sideways ran out of rpms went to upshift missed my gear and had to ride out the hill for the better part free wheelin using very soft breaking and using my trolly to snap the tractor straight when I started one of the many trailer push jack knives, finally the curves ended and got it back in gear and made it out alive. Nothing more scary then having little control in a big rig on a snowy/icy moutain road in the middle of no where. Had my hands full keeping her on the road though you should never free wheel I do believe if I had tried to get it back in gear I wouldn't have made it off that road in 1 piece all in all things can get crazy quick
Sounds like letting It freewheel saved your bacon. While in most situations letting the truck freewheel is not a good idea, in certain instances it can save your life especially in deep muddy terrain. It's saved my ass a few times.
I agree on making your own path, but, in non-icy rainy conditions, they say to follow the tracks of traffic ahead of you to prevent hydroplaning. Great video!
If a trolley brake lever falls off the tractor, do you think it's legal to drive like that? Would you drive like that if it was legal? Here is an example of when a trolley brake made a difference for me: My tractor trailer came to a stop 3/4 the way up a steep hill of ice, and the trailer started to slide backwards. I tried to gently steer the trailer backwards, but it started to move in an an acute angle. I tried to touch the service brake and my tractor and trailer started to bend slightly, had I continued, I would of jackknifed. I reached for the trolley, and the trailer back wheels stopped me, as they had something to grab at the lower end of the hill, my steer and drive tires still on the ice and useless! When I finally stopped I was close to the guardrail on the other side of the road with the rear of the trailer closest to the guardrail. Talk about almost filling your shorts! ...Jane
Hi again. I was wondering if you could do a video on clutch control, and starting from a stop on a hill. Mike Ziegler, feel free to chime in on this one too. I'm always eager for trucking knowledge and the chance to apply, practice and craft it.
The roads are graded 3% to each side for drainage. If it safe, drive in both lanes. If wind is severe and you are very light or empty, drive in the lane that leans you into the wind from the side.
the best thing i can do is shut down for that night sleep and tomorrow is a new day my life is better than 1200 dollars a week well maybe because I'm a rookie lol
If the hill looks bad, but not enough for chains, you’d want to engage the axle lockers too. When you can’t decide whether to chain up or not, just throw some iron! If you meet some you know, don’t be afraid to ask how the hill is, but usually they’ll give a heads up. And throw those cable chains in the recycling bin!
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You ate a great driver i can tell that you have been a professional for a long time. I can also tell you’re Canadian, the way you pronounce your O’s. 😃. Thanks for the video, very helpful!
Well, with only a couple weeks experience under my belt, the other day I was paving downhill with two bottom dumps. We dump in first because the contractor manually controls the AC dumping. Once my trailers cleared the wind row, I picked up speed because of the steep grade and tached out. I was to scared to try to shift because I was worried I would miss the gear, but the low gear was causing to much of breaking effect and caused me to start sliding on the oil they lay down before the AC. I feathered the breaks every so often, but pretty much slalomed my way down the hill. Not sure how I could have improved things, but at least I made. Next time think I will try second and tell the paver he might have to jog.
Nice video. I had a guy tell me to go down slippery grades at normal speed. The problem I've noticed that some hills are steep enough to keep pushing you to where you have to upshift. Also, if you use the jake you can spin off or if you use your brakes you could break loose too....Kinda hard to know what to do. I will be trucking in some hilly country in ND. Some of the roads will require chaining up. They don't salt out here either. I'm new to chaining up but I just want to stay safe out there.
I share the distrust of a retarder in slippery conditions. I have used it, but only sparingly as it acts on the drive axles of the tractor which, if locked up, can cause a jack knife. The trick with climbing is to try to take the hill in the highest gear possible to get you to the top without changing down. This will minimise the tendency for the wheels to spin.
I disagree with using higjest gear possible i would prefer to pick a gear that i can pull the entire grade with while sitting about 100rpm off my governor if my rpm gets low that means im pullingnwith torque wich is great for my mpg but torque will spin you out faster then HP low rpm torque higj rpm HP
This mas is an amazing driver, however I was taught not to use the jake brake on a wet or slippery surface, And he did mentioned to use it when going down. Im still a big rookie though.
No one, even SuperTruckers and BillyBigRiggers, no one, is above the basic LAWS of physics, 1 that i always keep in mind even after 22 yrs and over 2 mil. goes as follows: Objects in motion tend to stay in motion, basic T/T combos come with 2 or more objects that tend to stay in motion, something to ponder maybe, works for me no collisions after 22, Thank God!
some trucks, I believe, shut off the engine brake if wheel spin is detected. If using your jake when it is snowy or icy, I use it on the lowest setting. I have had trucks slide around with jake on so I generally do not use it in bad weather. The only problems I have is with douchey drivers trying to push you to drive faster in bad weather, never let others drive your truck for you and be on the side of caution, you prove nothing to others from your grave.
It depends on your load. If you're empty then you're asking for a jackknife given the right conditions especially in a turn. If you have a good load or it's mostly on the nose with little on the tail, then it makes sense to allow the engine to "assist" keeping the T/T at a sane descent. Never allow the engine rpm to climb more than half way past it's range in a descent. Like he said - keep the speed under control from the beginning. A combination of proper speed, gear, engine retarding (jake or not), and brake pedal (keep your paws off the trolley!) should do you well.
Now come do it on some Northern Ontario backroads. Some hills we need to push the trucks and trailers up in the bush. I’ve burned out on hills in the summer time here. Every highway guy should have to haul a load of logs first.
Slow is very key. I was going around a corner yesterday near Big Sky Montana and I lost traction around a corner. Truck went the wrong way going 50. Luckily I was able to steer it back and nobody was coming. Scared the shit out of me
to add another old trick to the list, if your outfit has a fan switch for the engine fan, along with slow speed turn on the engine fan, it provides aprox 30 to 40 brake horsepower of retardation to your engine AND it's far gentler hold than a Jake, and just as constant. have done this from day one 44yrs ago and still do it, in fact my uncle William used to refer to it as a poor man's Jake. stay safe brothers an sister's an make it home in one piece.
Good video. I never use my jake in the snow or severe rain. I would also mention if you don't get enough momentum at the beginning of the hill and you start to slide backward towards the bottom of the hill....steer as if your backing up the truck. Yes this happened to me as a new trailer driver...think fast.
This guy is an awesome teacher! I've been driving 32 years and I learned a few things from this video! Thanx!
Years ago when I started driving truck, and older guy told me "You can go around a curve or down a hill a thousand times too slow... But you might only do it once too fast". Something I have always remembered.
calvinhobbescinnamon really true isn't it.Gotta love those older guys, there's no substitute for experience. dave
Out West, watch for the valley temperature INVERSION. Quick story, back in the 1970's, snowing hard, dropped over the summit of the Siskiyou's (I-5 Cali./Oregon border) pulled off the chains in a steady rain. Crept down full Jakes at about 25 (7 miles 6%) Near bottom, started a roll out up to 60 when the two cars that just passed spun and left the highway. Jakes on, instantly, engine went to an idle! Sliding on solid black ice! Jammed in the clutch, let er roll, pulled the trailer hand valve, couldn't stop for the POE scale, slid right on by. The cold air had slid into and got trapped in the valley! An INVERSION!
Coming down the 4th of July in idaho i started to jack knife, accelerated got it straightened out eased over to the shoulder slowed down to about 5-10 mph and creeped down to the bottom, got to the bottom and cleaned out the 20 lbs of excrement that had built up in my britches over the past hour
I have been driving a Class-A semi-truck for over 25 years with over 2 million miles on the road. I'm still driving today. I work in Alaska where I pull doubles, which is two 45' trailers between Anchorage, Homer, and Fairbanks, AK year round. The one thing that I'm 100% sure of is that you cannot teach a "know-it-all" anything. My words are not directed towards the creator of this video...
Now, for all of you who want to learn: prudent speed, common sense, patience and practice make a driver successful. With that being said, the Jake on any setting doesn't cause a jackknife because the engine's computer momentarily pauses the Jake for a short period of time when it senses a loss of traction, and re-applies when there is traction. If no traction is found, it will pause again, and again. A jackknife is cause by imprudent speed and the driver over-breaking because over-breaking means "NO" traction. If a tire is no longer turning, it can no longer grab the surface of the road/snow/ice. Yes, I said ICE.
Ask yourself, what's the ''MOST'' important gauge on your dash panel?
"Outside Air Temperature Gauge" is the correct answer! When temps drop below the danger zone, which is between 38 - 28 degrees, ice becomes tacky on the roads surface due to the warm tires and cold ice. It's like that "know-it-all" that stuck their tongue on the metal pole during a cold winter day! :)
It's okay to use the brakes, but you cannot apply the brakes for too long and you should use the brakes sooner rather than later, which is to say that you need to anticipate and plan BEFORE you enter a curve and BEFORE you begin a decent. You can always speed up, but you cannot always slow down.
One thing some new guys don't really understand very well, once you pull away from the dock, it's the driver who's solely responsible for the safe operation of the truck and payload. Excuses don't cut it. It happens rarely, I think twice in my career did I do this, I called dispatch and said, I'm waiting for awhile, for plowtrucks, sanders, etc. Sometimes the best way to handle a route in poor shape, is to wait. Yes you're going to encounter some resistance, but I countered with something along the lines of, "You pay me to get the load from A to B. You trust me to do it a safe and profitable manner. Any other time, you accept my opinion, my opinion is late fees are a hell of a lot cheaper than insurance claims and fines. Great video!
This man knows his stuff, i have driven all 48 plus canada in snow and ice, sometimes i should have parked it, but kept on truckin, his methods WORK, used them myself many times. 22 years and over 1 million miles safely.
CW MARTIN Thanks..... all the best to you!
I drive a log truck in and around the Oregon Cascades. Here's my 2 cents: (These tips do not pertain to off-road driving). I'll start by saying this: Try to stay as far from other travellers as possible. AVOID THE PACK! Put your chains on BEFORE you need them. Know how to install them properly. As to engine braking....I'll use my jake when descending an icy or snow-covered grade under certain conditions. 1) If my drivers are chained up I prefer to use my jake rather than my foot pedal because I know that the braking will be going to the wheels with the most traction. It's important that your power divider be engaged for this. 2) If I am barefoot I will not use my jake unless there is plenty of gravel or salt on the road. Even then, I use it on a lower setting and I have my foot hovering over the throttle, with my hand on the hand valve. Again, use your power divider. In general, I will both ascend or descend a slick pass by staying out of the main traveled part of the road. I stay out of the wheel tracks because that area tends to be the slickest and the first to get the gravel or salt kicked off. Often I will put my r/h drivers near the fog line because that's where the gravel gets kicked over to. FTR, I've been drving since 1978... aside from the odd bumper or wrinkled fender... I've never had a wreck.
That advice is worth way more than 2 cents, it's invaluable. There's no substitute for experience and skill and stuff like that cannot be learned in a classroom. Thanks for the comment Mike! Dave
after 45 years of truckin i will say that you are exactly right. keep your rpm down and the jake on low. i always tried to keep about 30 or 35 mph so i didnt have to use the foot brakes. and stay well away from the pack...especially the 4 wheelers. they will screw you up pretty quick.
i also use the rumble strips for better traction..
I've never been down a mountain in the snow and ice. Makes me nervous. I just went through the California mountains for the first time and I was super nervous. But I think I handled it well. There were trucks blowing by me on a 6% grade and I just took it easy. I'm alive and I'm happy about that.
Just go down slow and ignore everyone else. Sounds like you did it just right! Dave
Smart-Trucking.com thank you
Driving in the snow not only driving slow I always kept my rpms at about 1600 no matter the gear. I rarely broke loose and it gave me the chance to slow down a lot faster if something were to happen. Drives were locked in and Jake on low going down hill and soft braking at about 20-25mph on my route.
I my many years with heavy loads, one problem I found was that my AIR SUSPENSION adjusting on my drives, constantly adjusting to weight, as I hauled liquid gasses. In many tricky up grades I drop my tractor air bags (for a short time) to maintain a more constant weight balance which allowed both drive axles to maintain a constant traction pressure during a hard climb while following your description of fuel and appropriate gear selection. This has saved me many times. And above all, keep your good buddy radio up, know what's ahead of you and be prepared and don't over react.
Very good video, with very good advice. I am retired from driving all 48 and Canada, and can recognize good instructors.
1) the "interlock" is often called a "Diff-Lock" and it syncronizes the differentials. 2) there is also a forward diff and rear diff axle lock. 3) DO NOT use BOTH axle locks on icy surfaces except at extremely low speeds. If both axle locks are engaged and the diff lock is also engaged, everything moves together, and the vehicle has tendency to move in one direction -- straight forward. Icy / mud / snotty conditions will eliminate steering control. 4) Being an experienced gravel hauler driving on ice / mud / snot, the lower the gear going up or down the better. Often 1st gear and all locked up at 1000 rpm will keep you moving. 5) DO NOT USE THE JAKE it will lock up your wheels!!!
When you said clutch, that was when I knew you were an instructor.
Great tips!
Thanks.
NICE VIDEO! MY GRANDFATHER DROVE A TRACTOR TRAILER FOR 53 YEARS, AND NEVER HAD AN ACCIDENT, NOT SO MUCH AS BENT A MIRROR! MUCH RESPECT TO THE DRIVERS ALL OVER THE US FOR GETTING PRODUCTS TO OUR PEOPLE. GOD BLESS YOU ALL, THANK YOU, AND BE SAFE OUT THERE!
MrMrpierce thanks !
My dad has never had a accident in a truck he's been drive 25 years he did however get his mirror hit by a guy in the truck stop he was in a space and the other guy was backing in
He lied to you.
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You! You have been the first person that has actually tackled this subject of driving in winter weather. This is my first year as a otr truck driver( I've had my CDL for over 15 years), and I could not get any good tips of how to drive in winter weather with a tractor-trailer. I have subscribed to your channel and will be looking for more tips on winter driving.
Belinda Lacey Glad to know you were able to get some value from the video, Belinda. Remember, I'm not a driving school instructor.... I've been driving for over 35 years and have driven all sorts of terrain, equipment and weather, so these are guidelines, not hard and fast rules. (Dave)
I been there man... if you haven't done it before your nervous as a dog shittin razor blades. I pulled double hoppers in ID, MT, WA, OR, WY, NV, and CA I drove truck in other states but these are particularly known for steep passes. And I have spun out before a couple of times once by Ashton, ID and another time on a hill by Norris, MT. and those are hills and not really big passes. I usually throw chains on at my own discretion If the weather is bad regardless of there's a chain up requirement, just to be on the safe side, but conditions change fast. Another thing that helps is CB communication with other drivers. That's helped me immensely....So yeah I hear ya, it can get pretty hairy during the winter months out west. Thanks for the vid and stay safe out there.
Crank you for taking your time to share this with people that never have had to deal with this. No telling how many lives this one video has saved 😎
AWESOME advice!!!
I always use the egg under foot scenario for students. ALWAYS act like there's an egg under your foot, and NEVER put enough pressure to break the egg.
I'm not a fan of using an engine brake in foul weather. But, I've been out of trucking for over 10 years, so I don't know if engine braking has evolved to something safer.
Slow down and leave more distance. If you find yourself not feeling OK under 30MPH, GET OFF THE ROAD!
I LOVE the higher RPM gear choice! I know some drivers want to keep low RPMs, but in the 18+ years of driving, accident-free, I found keeping the gearing in the high RPM band MUCh safer.
All good stuff--just remember when you have the power divider locked in and you are in a turn at low speed that pwoer divider has a tendency to drive your tractor straight ahead thru the curve instead of around it.
thank you so much for this! Been driving for a year now (in canada) had my share of snow but also wheel locking when braking or wheel spinning while going uphill. I drive tankers with 3, 4 axles and also b-trains; none has baffles. Extra care has to be done with b-trains as all the liquid will slosh around when accelerating, braking or turning. With them tankers the liquid will travel to the back when going uphill and make you loose even more traction as the weight on the pulling axles is lifted up. Slow and gradual is the motto. Don't let anybody bully you, trucks, 4-wheelers, buses. No cargo is worth your life.
Really good stuff. Practical, safe, slow, from somebody that obviously know what he'd talking about. Stop the hate, appreciate the effort.
Lots of really good things covered in this video and I especially like the emphasis on staying higher in RPMs; it's such a good practice for not only the reason that you mention with over spinning but also in the fact that it really limits the power that is getting to the wheels and there is less of a chance to overpower the traction that you do have when it's necessary to use more throttle. I live in the mountains myself and see so many people do so many things wrong during winter conditions because they aren't properly educated in best practices.
Best thing to do is never panic, that's why whenever I lose control I immediately close my eyes until I stop moving.
+ChrisLikesPepsi me too
spoken like a true veteran driver! :-)
I usually pull over at the bottom of the Coquihalla highway and shake out my stanfield's LOL
ChrisLikesPepsi that doesn't help either tho lol. Don't panic but remain in control
This is a great learning tool but as for me , driving in the Pacific NW and Canadian Rockies NEVER use the Jacobs Brake. Same goes with the Cruise Control any time it's slippery in snow or heavy rain don't use it. All lower 48 but NYC I drove and I hate city streets driving a OTR full size rig people are crazy to think they can squeeze by on the suicide side while your doing a jug handle right turn!! Stay safe drivers, keep the shiny side up and the greasy side down y'all.
Good Video,
Just remember: Do make sure you know how to chain up if driving in Canada. Few years back a driver died on the highway in Northern BC cause he didn't know how to chain up.
And it's always best to chain up BEFORE you need to.
Jakes can get you in trouble if you aren't careful. It's best to use the lowest setting and if you have diff locks, disengage them. I keep the inter axle lock engaged so I'm using at least two drive tires out of the four. If I'm in a truck with three drive axles, the same applies.
Easy on the brakes and keep your speeds down.
And don't be afraid to chain up.
Sliding back down a steep grade backwards because you've started spinning halfway up is a bad deal.
If I use an engine brake going down hill in the snow I'll generally switch to fewer banks than all three. Slow is great advice, but I've seen guys get into trouble by going too slow. I like to think "tippy toe" down slippery slopes just like walking down hill on a slippery sidewalk. Neither too slow nor too fast. you experienced drivers understand I'm sure. Finally I'd like to add when descending a slippery hill especially if your tractor or trailer breaks loose always remember "more thinking and less feeling". It's easy to make crazy decisions if you're fixated on being freaked out. Great vid as always....
Colorado high mountain trucker here.
I ran a gasoline tanker over the Rockies
Everyday. For 5 years. I went up to 11,991 ft. Above
Sea level every day, twice. Out and back.
It was an adventure
You look like you've done this more than a few times, good advice!
You are so right on. I used to run the right shoulder as much as possible when climbing a snow covered hill.
back in the 70's ran 90-94 from Minnesota to Seattle or Portland every week. Montana will teach you to drive in the winter. I loved every minute of it. However Look Out Pass will dirty your pants if you don't watch it. Stay in the white stuff was our motto.
Hello Smart-trucking.com: I am not a trucker, but ran across some trucker videos on youtube, i particular yours. Even though your videos are mainly aimed at trucker or would be truckers, i have enjoyed them. In addition have learn some things that i can apply to my own driving my personal car on the road, plus a trucker point of view about the road. Keep the good work.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Drive safe! Dave
Very *good advice driver. "Making your own trail" works for me as well in my POV in snow. Keeping my "rolling traction" is near the top for slippery roads whether snow or mud. I went to a driving school for my CDL. Not a shake and bake school either but a 6 or 7 month course. Of course it helps having the right tractor...I see you're in a PETE with a Jake. They had 2 Pete's w/Jake at my school so I have a thing for an old Pete. My personal truck has an electric speed retarder and I often use it on exit ramps to slow without braking. I learned in school if it takes 3rd to reach the top I go down in 4th till I'm out of the pass. Driving this way I never had a lick of trouble and saved my brakes too.*
*Great tutorial. Too bad the 4 wheelers most seem to suffer driving like a fool.*
Thank you I needed this video. My company sent me for a Hazmat clean up job on a diesel tank at the Cupertino Mine in San Jose in our tanker and the hill was so steep that unfortunately I couldn’t climb the mountain due to spinning out ( I tried to take it in 4th). The mechanic ended up taking the truck up the mountain but it’s been on the back of my mind since that’s one of our common clients that one day I’m going to conquer that steep hill lol.
Thanks Luis, yeah, it's just like everything else, the more you do it the better you get at it! Drive safe! Dave
i didnt like your vids when i first starting looking at driving vids, but i have come to like you very educational and tutorial method. you present yourself as a true professional. thank you
*From the Driver's Seat Series: How to Climb & Descend a Snowy Grade*
#trucker #truckdriver #trucking
Great instructor.
whats the truck on the thumbnail
do not use your jake brake on slippery or wet surface
James Merritt no.
I've never had a problem with jake on wet or snow while loaded.. While empty, now that is an oh shit moment when you forget the jake was on going down a slippery hill with no weight in your trailer... I live in Canada and drove on roads just like you see in this video..
Many years of wisdom in this video, thanks!
I like how he explained it's good for new students like me thank u sir
You are most welcome.
many good tips, in norway we have some more tricks in the box though. on 6x4 trucks we rig the suspention so we can dump the air out of the last drive axle so most of the weight is one one of the drives. thats very neat when not so heavy and lack traction. also lifting the first axle on the trailer puts more weight in the truck. auto chains and sand boxes many also use. and studed proper nordic winter tyres :)
I'm driving a 6x4 truck in Iceland and have both the air dump on the rear drive axle and the axle lift on the trailer, it works wonders as I can put about 17 metric tons (close to 37,500 lbs) on the front drive axle, as well as having full lockers. I've never used auto chains or sand boxes though, but chains are essential during the winter here as even the 17 tons don't always do the trick.
I love watching your channel. I'm new to trucking and when you're new you get all kinds of advice but it isn't always good.
Not only do you explain what you are doing. You show it. Plus you being in Canada THE GREAT WHITE NORTH to me. I'm all ears and eyes. Thank you what you are doing.
andrew elliott I hope you find some value in the information, Andrew. (Dave)
Slow and planning i agree. However i only use the clutch from standong starts and use 200 to 400 rpm split between speed shifts depending on grade slope. I thankyou for all of your postings. Here is hoping that new drivers watch them. WELL DONE
Some of these tips I've already used in my personal vehicle. Going slower also gives you plenty of time and distance to get yourself in the best position while descending and going around curves.
locking interaxel jn gives you one wheel on each axle driving. you can get full locking differentials that can give you three, four or in the case of tri drive 6 wheels driving.
nothing wrong with jaking downhills if you start jack knifing a little fuel and a bit of pressure on your trailer brakes will straighten you right up.
driving in the higher RPM range you're more likely to spin. you're in the power band. at lower RPM more torque less zing.
I only drove logging truck (7 axle) off road in B.C. mountains for five years and another five or so hauling super B's through the mountains. But I maintain 1 year driving off road will teach you as much about hills and adverse road conditions as ten on the highway. you're going up and down grades that would never be found on highways on roads that are barely one lane wide with 100 foot drops on either side,
the advice I give is not only what I found but what I was told by guys who had been driving in the bush for 40 plus years.
watch highway through hell the those are not the worst roads in BC by a long shot.
Sound advice. I aways used to carry half-dozen bags of grit/sand in case hit a patch of ice where could not get any traction.
I havent driven in the winter as yet. I am dreading driving in PA but your vodeos help me alot
I'm a recent CDL driver, and always like to listen and observe the old school drivers a lot, CDL Schools teach just the basic for you to Pass the exam but these encounters you May experience on the Road with snow, steep hills ect no better teachers than the old timers for that, they been through it all
also don't use engine braking on the way down since it's only on your drive axle. Better to use the foot brake which applies to all axles evenly. If you use the jake brake your drive axles may break traction and then your trailer will try to push you sideways
Thank you so much for great advice on Snow/ ice road conditions. YES the SLOW going down is so important. Everyone thinks today that they must be there faster. Just remember the Load being jacknife. A police investigation is not getting your load delivered. Being late if a mountain pass has lots of snow, is the most important thing.
I've also found that you wanna be going slow at the top when you start going downhill,you can always speed up but sometimes you can't slow down without sliding.
All good advice. I have found in my 43 yrs off and on that in the winter I will back my front brakes off. Braking on slick roads the fronts will lock up before the rears when braking. I do this incase the drivers lock up and I have to feed fuel while braking when the drivers brake loose so I can still steer. I powerdivider or interlock will generally lock up one wheel on each rearend. If you have lockers (which will give you 3 or 4 wheel drive depending on whether you have one or both axles) on sick roads will have a tendency to push you straight and make it harder to turn a corner. Like Calvin said you can always speed up going down hill but not always slow down. If I have any question about slick roads I will put the proper amount of chains on, they are much cheaper than the alternative. The worst thing about learning to drive in our area is that old drivers don't talk to the new drivers like they did when I learned. Glad to see everyone talking. Something that works for one driver does not always work for all. Take your time and find out what is best for you. Safe journey people. God bless
Great point about the engine rpms regarding wheel spin. I've never driven a truck and probably never will, but I'll keep that in mind.
That advice works if you have heavy load over the drive axles. If you don't have weight, you are better off with higher gear/lower rpm. With passenger vehicles, always shift up to highest gear possible without lugging or stalling to get the best traction.
Watching you go thru the gears and your pretty smooth..having it tached up while pulling is good advice
Good stuff here as we get closer to the fun season. For those in the lower 48, the best advice when it snows is to GET OFF the road before it gets bad. 1. The worst motorists ALWAYS make themselves a problem and then YOU get the blame - but lawyers see truck accidents as BIG payoffs. 2. Most highways have snow plows and salt. Let them do their job while you relax over coffee, fattening snacks, and email. 3. If you think of it - driving 20 mph on an icy highway for 2 hours is stupid. Not only do you expose yourself to fender benders in that big convoy of nervous brake happy heroes, but your pay has just dropped down to minimum wage and you burned up driving time you may need. Once cleared and salted, you can cover that same distance they did in about 39 minutes doing 65 mph with less stress and fuel.
try this thinking in a real winter climate, you would never get anything done!
I cannot spend up to 5 months a year sitting still on the side of the road.
Interlock or interaxle only locks tires in a line or across, one tire on each axle, front and back, or one back right tire and one front fwd tire cross from back thats why u can still steer! Differential lock locks all wheels together! And u dont wanna use it on dry ground! You'll snap a axle cause they are all locked!
You are correct on every point. I cannot recall which interstate I was on but I was descending very steeply into Pendleton Oregon on black ice and snow for miles. I did not use my jake break but I drove my rig VERY slowly with very gentle control inputs and got to the bottom of the decent ok. I would be lying if I were to tell you I wasn't a little scared. I was very challenged with that ride but I learned from that event how to handle a very heavy big rig with climbing and descending on snow and ice.
Interstate 84. Cabbage. Dave
Yup. That's cabbage hill. From top to bottom (or bottom to top), you can have several different weather conditions in the same descent (ascent). Snow, ice, rain, freezing rain, fog, freezing fog, and plain old dry sunshine. Particularly nasty stretch of highway. Not one you want to be caught off-guard on.
I just love how calm you are
Half the time it's not that I'm calm, I'm just ready for my nap. Dave
Ha ha I hear ya
So great to get advice from an experienced driver, instead of the 6 months to 1 year youtubers.
Everything he said is true I was coming
Down the Cabbage snow and ice with
A heavy load was going slow and still
Was speeding up so I remember what
This Gentleman had said about the Jake brake in low I engage it was scared his Information save my a !!!
Thanks Driver you are the best.
another old trick is to turn it on every time you head down a big hill in warm weather, Jake's work off oil pressure, climbing the hill your oil is hot and thin, having the engine fan on going down along with the Jake cools the oil down and makes the Jake more efficient.
Good tip Kelly! Thanks! Dave
You don't want that peak torque curve when you're ice. Which depending on the engine is usually around 1200 RPM. Not just because you don't want the RPM to jump. You also don't want to be running your RPM too high though because if you start jack knifing, you can use your trailer brakes and throttle to power out of it if the circumstances are right. Nice video, great tips.
These general concepts apply to any vehicle, of course. Most "accidents" aren't.
Very good tips, thanks very much for sharing it with all of us
Naqib Naderi Glad to know you got some value from it. (Dave)
Good vid ..good advice ..climing hi rpm above power band down hill single phase Jake's if bad enough never touch trailer brake!...if you can brake with left foot for constant brake pressure down shifting or up. 70 percent of jackknifes I've seen not enough grease on fifth wheel..do a video on importance of grease..I run wrecker on elk mtn seen a lot of jackknifes! Hope a lot of new guys watch your stuff..good advice!
Thanks Mike!
that interlock would be called the power divider
Jake break in the winter can be bad news, I've done p&d single axle driving for the past two years up in the mountains no chains and some dangerous roads. Was trying to creep down a hill in 5th gear no jake break and barely using the breaks trailer pushed me sideways ran out of rpms went to upshift missed my gear and had to ride out the hill for the better part free wheelin using very soft breaking and using my trolly to snap the tractor straight when I started one of the many trailer push jack knives, finally the curves ended and got it back in gear and made it out alive. Nothing more scary then having little control in a big rig on a snowy/icy moutain road in the middle of no where. Had my hands full keeping her on the road though you should never free wheel I do believe if I had tried to get it back in gear I wouldn't have made it off that road in 1 piece all in all things can get crazy quick
Sounds like letting It freewheel saved your bacon. While in most situations letting the truck freewheel is not a good idea, in certain instances it can save your life especially in deep muddy terrain. It's saved my ass a few times.
Thanks for keeping us safe, Dave.
Love the videos always can learn from other drivers no matter how long I been driving
I agree on making your own path, but, in non-icy rainy conditions, they say to follow the tracks of traffic ahead of you to prevent hydroplaning. Great video!
Your atleast 26k if your going fast enough to hydroplane your already in the ditch
If a trolley brake lever falls off the tractor, do you think it's legal to drive like that? Would you drive like that if it was legal?
Here is an example of when a trolley brake made a difference for me: My tractor trailer came to a stop 3/4 the way up a steep hill of ice, and the trailer started to slide backwards. I tried to gently steer the trailer backwards, but it started to move in an an acute angle. I tried to touch the service brake and my tractor and trailer started to bend slightly, had I continued, I would of jackknifed. I reached for the trolley, and the trailer back wheels stopped me, as they had something to grab at the lower end of the hill, my steer and drive tires still on the ice and useless! When I finally stopped I was close to the guardrail on the other side of the road with the rear of the trailer closest to the guardrail. Talk about almost filling your shorts! ...Jane
We all miss you Dave. Stay resting easy in Paradise
Hi again. I was wondering if you could do a video on clutch control, and starting from a stop on a hill.
Mike Ziegler, feel free to chime in on this one too. I'm always eager for trucking knowledge and the chance to apply, practice and craft it.
The roads are graded 3% to each side for drainage. If it safe, drive in both lanes. If wind is severe and you are very light or empty, drive in the lane that leans you into the wind from the side.
That's not always possible.
the best thing i can do is shut down for that night sleep and tomorrow is a new day my life is better than 1200 dollars a week well maybe because I'm a rookie lol
If the hill looks bad, but not enough for chains, you’d want to engage the axle lockers too. When you can’t decide whether to chain up or not, just throw some iron! If you meet some you know, don’t be afraid to ask how the hill is, but usually they’ll give a heads up. And throw those cable chains in the recycling bin!
You ate a great driver i can tell that you have been a professional for a long time. I can also tell you’re Canadian, the way you pronounce your O’s. 😃. Thanks for the video, very helpful!
Do what some do in BC. Mash the gas going up the hill and slam the breaks on going down the hill. This always makes for a fun ride in the winter.
Thank you for your accessible information. Thankyou for helping me be more professional
Well, with only a couple weeks experience under my belt, the other day I was paving downhill with two bottom dumps. We dump in first because the contractor manually controls the AC dumping. Once my trailers cleared the wind row, I picked up speed because of the steep grade and tached out. I was to scared to try to shift because I was worried I would miss the gear, but the low gear was causing to much of breaking effect and caused me to start sliding on the oil they lay down before the AC. I feathered the breaks every so often, but pretty much slalomed my way down the hill. Not sure how I could have improved things, but at least I made. Next time think I will try second and tell the paver he might have to jog.
Fun ride! Wow! Good job making it down! Dave
Great man, great knowledge, and we are all grateful you share these type things.
Thanks!
You're a professional truck driver.
Nice video. I had a guy tell me to go down slippery grades at normal speed. The problem I've noticed that some hills are steep enough to keep pushing you to where you have to upshift. Also, if you use the jake you can spin off or if you use your brakes you could break loose too....Kinda hard to know what to do. I will be trucking in some hilly country in ND. Some of the roads will require chaining up. They don't salt out here either. I'm new to chaining up but I just want to stay safe out there.
I share the distrust of a retarder in slippery conditions. I have used it, but only sparingly as it acts on the drive axles of the tractor which, if locked up, can cause a jack knife.
The trick with climbing is to try to take the hill in the highest gear possible to get you to the top without changing down. This will minimise the tendency for the wheels to spin.
I disagree with using higjest gear possible i would prefer to pick a gear that i can pull the entire grade with while sitting about 100rpm off my governor if my rpm gets low that means im pullingnwith torque wich is great for my mpg but torque will spin you out faster then HP low rpm torque higj rpm HP
Good video, and thankyou for your service. I always respect the truckers on the road-extra room, etc!
This mas is an amazing driver, however I was taught not to use the jake brake on a wet or slippery surface, And he did mentioned to use it when going down.
Im still a big rookie though.
Just like with aircraft or ships , you have to stay ahead of the vehicle . Managing mass and velocity with physics . :)
No one, even SuperTruckers and BillyBigRiggers, no one, is above the basic LAWS of physics, 1 that i always keep in mind even after 22 yrs and over 2 mil. goes as follows: Objects in motion tend to stay in motion, basic T/T combos come with 2 or more objects that tend to stay in motion, something to ponder maybe, works for me no collisions after 22, Thank God!
good tips, although my instructor told me never to use the jake in the winter...thanks for all your help
And do what you were taught. This works for us, and is only for reference.
some trucks, I believe, shut off the engine brake if wheel spin is detected. If using your jake when it is snowy or icy, I use it on the lowest setting. I have had trucks slide around with jake on so I generally do not use it in bad weather. The only problems I have is with douchey drivers trying to push you to drive faster in bad weather, never let others drive your truck for you and be on the side of caution, you prove nothing to others from your grave.
Your instructor is an idiot
thanks joe king
It depends on your load. If you're empty then you're asking for a jackknife given the right conditions especially in a turn. If you have a good load or it's mostly on the nose with little on the tail, then it makes sense to allow the engine to "assist" keeping the T/T at a sane descent. Never allow the engine rpm to climb more than half way past it's range in a descent. Like he said - keep the speed under control from the beginning. A combination of proper speed, gear, engine retarding (jake or not), and brake pedal (keep your paws off the trolley!) should do you well.
Good practice when you drive on slippery road is to pull over and wait for road to improve..
Now come do it on some Northern Ontario backroads. Some hills we need to push the trucks and trailers up in the bush. I’ve burned out on hills in the summer time here. Every highway guy should have to haul a load of logs first.
Love to do that, just not with MY truck!
Thanks so much for the words of wisdom Dave.
Hey, thank you! Don't know how wise it is, I just know what's worked for me. Dave
Greaat advice!!! Love it...cant waiit for the snow
Slow is very key. I was going around a corner yesterday near Big Sky Montana and I lost traction around a corner. Truck went the wrong way going 50. Luckily I was able to steer it back and nobody was coming. Scared the shit out of me
to add another old trick to the list, if your outfit has a fan switch for the engine fan, along with slow speed turn on the engine fan, it provides aprox 30 to 40 brake horsepower of retardation to your engine AND it's far gentler hold than a Jake, and just as constant. have done this from day one 44yrs ago and still do it, in fact my uncle William used to refer to it as a poor man's Jake. stay safe brothers an sister's an make it home in one piece.
Good video. I never use my jake in the snow or severe rain. I would also mention if you don't get enough momentum at the beginning of the hill and you start to slide backward towards the bottom of the hill....steer as if your backing up the truck. Yes this happened to me as a new trailer driver...think fast.
with all the beginner companies EI contrans challenger, scheinder, etc. you should make another one with a automatic.
lol
I didn't know the high RPM trick. Gonna have to try that. I get a lot of muddy hills.
Great video just in time for 🥶 winter
Most guys always climb in low rpms and maximize torque which has causes slipping
Thank you I learned something I didn't know! God bless you.
Great video brother .your right on key with all your advice..I hope every rookie sees this video..it's very dangerous out there...Thanks.