Thanks for the clear underbody shot! Not accustomed to a car without clearly-defined "easy" jack points. Per the service manual, that's the crossmember for the front (just behind the oil pan) and the rear differential assembly for the rear. Fumoto bolt's torque spec is somewhere around 19 ft lbs, less than the OEM bolt at 29 ft lbs, but it should be just fine as long as you don't really wrench it down on there.
SAFETY ISSUE: No jack stands. Oil filter: No need to tighten so much, even by hand. Doing so may compromise the gasket. Just need about 1/2 turn past the point where you feel resistance. Overall, good video.
Thanks for the video! From the owners manual: "Except STI: · Adding the oil from L to F level: 1.1 US qt (1.0 liter, 0.9 Imp qt) · Changing the oil and oil filter: 5.4 US qt (5.1 liters, 4.5 Imp qt) · Changing the oil: 5.2 US qt (4.9 liters, 4.3 Imp qt)" So I would say that 5.5 qt should be good, only had to go .1 over since the filter was swapped out as well.
Changed the oil today. Installed the Fumoto valve and started using Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance Full Synthetic with the Mobil 1 M1-104 Extended Performance oil filter. This oil satisfies the requirements mentioned in the manual and should do well. Also, +LastHumansGarage remember when I was asking you about jacking points? When you look toward the back of the car, just beyond the belly pan "legs" it looks like their is a black metal support piece that is a good spot to jack the car up so that jack stands could be put at the front jack points, but I haven't tried that yet.
+Paul Naylor i hear it is a jack point too, but i never needed to use it. its a pain to get the jack that far in and still be able to pump it. maybe it could work for a bleeding brakes job, front vs rear at a time.
I don't really blend my personal Facebook with any of my car business. but because of your background primarily, i sent you a request to see if you want to add on Facebook. you could have a personal channel to message me, and likewise for my own personal reasons. I only have 2 other TH-cam people I brought to my Facebook.
Otherwise great video, informative and you take your time. Some people will rush and ultimately forget to do something, etc. Also, I like the fact that you fill the filter beforehand - that will ensure you are not starting the engine dry as it takes a few moments for the oil to be pumped up from the pan into the filter, then to the engine. Some people do not realize that....
For my cars I will typically fill it up to half the mark (so mid way min-max), drive around for 10-20km, than shut it off, wait a couple of minutes and then get a reading on the dip stick. Due to the expansion of the oil at high temperature it will typically read 'max'. My message is, never top it off to the max on a cold engine as it would then read way above max once it's warm (which is your typical usage condition). This is my experience with VWs and Audis.
Hey I just wanted to point out that your gallon oil has measurement markings on the side as-well. No need to fill the one quart, just watch your markings on the gallon.
Nice video. Two issues... Pre-filling the filter isn't that much of an issue. The anti-drain back valve is actually the rubber piece you see through the the holes. The bypass pressure valve you see in the middle of the filter basically allows cold oil (Thicker) to bypass when filter restriction becomes too much or pressure has exceeded. Secondly, It appears you tighten the filter "too much". "Hand tight" is "Hand tight". Otherwise, nice video!
Just a heads up when using a crows foot on a torque wrench you have to keep it at a 90 degree angle on the wrench. anything over 90 degrees your changing the length of the torque wrench which changes the torque value.
Checking the level right after running it will give you a false reading. You need to allow the oil time to drain back into the pan. I wouldn't start the car until you filled to the full mark. There's no benefit to running it before topping off. That would be why it took over the recommended 5.4. If you check it cold now it should be over full.
Mark S. you are right man... i checked it last night after my logging runs. it is about 1/4" over the top crosshatch. nothing im worried about for something that close, but good looking out.
If you hold that 1 Qt bottle the other way around with the pour hole more upwards it will fill quicker. Also for the little I would save letting the rest of the bottle drain into the car I don't want to turn my back and let other dust debris and things get into the oil system. I'd rather pour what I need and cover the cap on it.
Torquing the F108N to 30 ft-lbs is excessive. Fumoto says not to follow Subaru's drain plug torque. Fumoto states the torque for the F108N is 18 ft-lbs. SKU F108N Product type N Thread size M16-1.5 Sealing Fiber Gasket Nipple diameter 3/8" (10mm) Nipple length 1/2" (13.5mm) Body Forged brass Handle Stainless steel Spring Stainless steel Ball Brass (chrome plated) RoHS Complied (2015/863) Hydraulic test pressure 0.6 MPa Leakage test pressure 0.10 MPa Pressure Rating 145 PSI Temperature Rating -40° to 365° F Recommended Torque 221 in lbs (18 ft lbs)
I ordered a valve to put on my Crosstrek now that the car is out of warranty. I guess that I could have started doing my own oil changes sooner. I'm feeling confident about an ease of getting under my car without jacking. If you can get under a WRX without jacking, then the Crosstrek should be a breeze. Both the WRX and Crosstrek share the same 2.0L engine, but different mine takes 0w20 instead of 5w30. The turbo must be a reason for the difference. I'm okay with the 0 weight living in Canada with our unhuman Januaries. I'm glad that I watched yout video. I ordered the F104 and throught that was strange that two cars that were basically Imprezas with the same engine had different oil pan threads. You probably saved me at minimum, delaying the installation by one oil change, or at worst an oil pan, well maybe that's not the worst outcome for a misthreaded/crossthreaded valve.
+AuLKenny i bought my oil off amazon, subaru oem oil. cheaper than aftermarket actually. oil filters oem online, amazon or ebay. i bought a 6 or 8 pack for a discount.
+LastHumansGarage Any concerns with buying batches of stuff like filters? I know if something ever does go wrong with the car, and you've been doing it yourself, the dealer will want all receipts and a detailed service log. I've heard some people buy single filters and just the amount of oil necessary so the receipts line up with self-services. Any thoughts on that?
I did this mod last month. I feel a bit gyped though. My valve didnt come with any locks. It takes a good amount of force to move the lever though, so I think Im ok. I have a Boomba short rod and some RCE springs on the way. Hopefully I can do an install vid like yours. I think I need better recording gear though.
just future reference... when torquing with a crows foot. if you want to torque correctly the crows food should be perpendicular of the torque wrench (90 degrees). at that angle your torque wrench can be set at the desired value and no adjustments are required. you can have it at any angle but there are formulas for what angle it is at and what setting you need to have the torque wrench at for your desired torque value. not that what you did was super wrong or anything but i just thought if you wanted to know... there you go. coming from an air force jet engine mechanic of 6 years.
Actually not. Believe it or not a moment/couple/torque slides along the lever arm (beam) and doesn't matter as long as the drive between socket or crows foot is a pivot without extra forces.
The reason it drains so fast is the crappy subaru oil goes down to 5w30 after use. I use pennzoil ultra platnium and change af 3500 miles to make sure my viscosity is not so low.
Are you using stands to support the car before creeping under ? at 3:37 I see only the jack. If you don't want the oil to drain from the filter when you flip it hold the filter upright and flip the car...
Metal flake is not the end of the world after breaking in a engine. If you take oil analysis samples, you can't do one on engine breaking in, because of the usual heavy metallic reading. now after the engine breaks in, and you see metal flake, then you have issues. you could also do oil analysis if you wanted, they usually cost around $30. they give you the read out of what is wearing, bearings, rings, cylinder walls, etc. the advantage of having oil analysts is you can have a idea of how the engine is wearing, or any premature wearing of components. In aviation we take oil samples on everything, except after engine break ins. you could also cut open your filter, and inspect the media. and run a magnet through the media. you will see carbon chunks, thats normal. again its something thats required in the aviation world.... not really for the automotive world.
I absolutely agree that the Fumoto drain valve makes an oil change quicker and less messier but in my opinion a magnetic drain plug is more beneficial in the long run. In my opinion it's more important to me that the drain plug pulls out metal shaving rather than making the oil change quicker and less messier but then again that's only me.
true its about 50/50... wouldnt it solve everything if the Fumoto had a magnet?? but i wouldnt give up the Fumoto man.. its so relaxing doing oil changes now.. and you wear out your oil pan threads also, swapping the bolt every 3000 miles...
LastHumansGarage Not sure about wearing out the thread part because I seen cars that have 150k+ miles on it and they never replace their oil pan due to bad thread.
Do you by chance have any of your logs uploaded to view for your Rev 4 tune? It would be interesting to see if the knock is learning it's self away. (-1.4, -1.4, -1.4, -.70, -.70, -.70, -.35, -.35, 0, 0 ect. Unless when you go WOT a few more times the knock stays the same in the RPM range. The ECU will learn it away in -.35 increments (at least in the STi.) which usually means it was phantom/fake knock as long as it doesn't come back every time you do a pull in that RPM range that is. It will add timing back in, in those increments. As far as the oil being watery is concerned, it's been proven through UOA's that the OEM oil sheers down to a 20 weight after as few as 1500 miles. Everybody has different views on what oil to run as you can find those crazy threads on Nasioc, and iWSTi.
I just bought a 14mm dura last socket and it didn't fit !!! Any suggestions to over come getting the drain plug loose? I want to install the drain plug u now have, thanks!
weeping to me means a leak. I have been thinking about buying of of these but keep looking for vids like yours and trying to decide. I don like the sound of your description so now I am on the fence again
@@whitey4311 I remember LHG say and torque the valve to 30 ft-lbs, which was excessive. That probably caused the weeping due to a flattened and squished fiber gasket.
What if you pour the oil in the filter one night ahead and put it in freezer? So the oil will become thick and not likely to come out when you flip it upside down?
noobwow2009 One of the main reasons I use synthetic oil is the superior cold flow characteristics it offers, unlike conventional oil which does thicken with cold temps.
Question for you. Did you ever install an aftermarket electronic boost control solenoid? If so which one? I was told that going with a stage 2 and a catted/catless Jpipe, a 3 port EBCS is required. Thanks
Put a flattened out cardboard box under the drain pan to catch splashes. Mine takes 5.1 quarts, one 5 quart jug is good enough for me, never seen the Subaru 4 quart jug - that's just weird. Filling the filter on a top mount filter does nothing. I change every 8k to 10k miles, no problems at all.
@@LastHumansGarage I've never heard of such a thing, guess you learn something everyday. So let me ask you, I'm about to install one of these valves. I've seen other videos where they use the crows foot because you can't get a regular crescent wrench on there. Why can't I use a 17 mm socket? It seems like it fits right on there perfectly. also, if you got the little white plastic adapter for the hose, do you leave that on there or take it off every time? I put it on and took it off once and I felt like I was going to break it. I figure I'm going to break that cheap plastic locking thing, I'll just use cable ties after that
@@burns1210 you prob cant grab enough on the end for a socket, but it depends on your valve style i suppose. some have spouts and some dont. not many people use that plastic adapter thing.
+LastHumansGarage Darn, was hoping it was OEM size. Maybe it was 19mm. I was going to order a set of Crowfoot wrenches from amazon and want to make sure it has the correct size. It goes 17,19,21,22,24
Man...that drain plug...what a pita. Got it off the first time after a whole buncha fiddling. Went to do a second change today and absolutely could not get the damn thing off. Ordered the fumoto and guess I'll be bringing it to a shop for the second change. Irritating.
Yeah unfortunately I don't ahve one - I'm new to trying to turn my own wrenches...and it seems I Sheared the head off the plug so needed some help getting it off anyway. Got the fumoto so the problem hasn't happened again.
You never get an accurate reading after starting your car for a few seconds with cold oil. I bet you ended up over full. That's why most oil change places including your dealer will overfill your oil following this procedure. The correct way to check oil level is after a few minutes of shutting off a fully hot engine.
+sept1991 The F-108N would be 16mm, which you can verify on Amazon or the Fumoto website (link in description). It also comes in a nipple-less and short nipple versions; prices vary by about $3 either way.
Actually, the company that makes Subaru oil (Idemitsu) makes a very good oil. They don't skimp on the additives and I would say Mobil or Castrol does not have any advantage other than price.
@@LastHumansGarage That is utter absolute rubbish... both my AMG and my Porsche say Mobil 1 only. I've been using it exclusively for them with heavy and hard use since 1996...
Dirk Fromhein Same here. I prefer Mobil 1 EP which is made from a group IV base stock. I’ve been using M1 for many years. Opened the top end on my Honda 3.5 V6 to adjust the valves at 120k miles. Looked like new. Surprisingly, all valves were within .001 of spec. I expected the exhaust valves to wear into the seat reducing lash, but they were all in spec. Also, I’ve been using the Fumoto valves for many years too. No issues and I don’t use the locks either.
Thanks for the clear underbody shot! Not accustomed to a car without clearly-defined "easy" jack points. Per the service manual, that's the crossmember for the front (just behind the oil pan) and the rear differential assembly for the rear.
Fumoto bolt's torque spec is somewhere around 19 ft lbs, less than the OEM bolt at 29 ft lbs, but it should be just fine as long as you don't really wrench it down on there.
true
SAFETY ISSUE: No jack stands.
Oil filter: No need to tighten so much, even by hand. Doing so may compromise the gasket. Just need about 1/2 turn past the point where you feel resistance.
Overall, good video.
Thanks for the video! From the owners manual:
"Except STI:
· Adding the oil from L to F level: 1.1 US qt (1.0 liter, 0.9 Imp qt)
· Changing the oil and oil filter: 5.4 US qt (5.1 liters, 4.5 Imp qt)
· Changing the oil: 5.2 US qt (4.9 liters, 4.3 Imp qt)"
So I would say that 5.5 qt should be good, only had to go .1 over since the filter was swapped out as well.
Changed the oil today. Installed the Fumoto valve and started using Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance Full Synthetic with the Mobil 1 M1-104 Extended Performance oil filter. This oil satisfies the requirements mentioned in the manual and should do well.
Also, +LastHumansGarage remember when I was asking you about jacking points? When you look toward the back of the car, just beyond the belly pan "legs" it looks like their is a black metal support piece that is a good spot to jack the car up so that jack stands could be put at the front jack points, but I haven't tried that yet.
+Paul Naylor i hear it is a jack point too, but i never needed to use it. its a pain to get the jack that far in and still be able to pump it. maybe it could work for a bleeding brakes job, front vs rear at a time.
I don't really blend my personal Facebook with any of my car business. but because of your background primarily, i sent you a request to see if you want to add on Facebook. you could have a personal channel to message me, and likewise for my own personal reasons. I only have 2 other TH-cam people I brought to my Facebook.
Tip: You can use a zip tie instead of a clamp or the plastic thing. Just cut it off next oil change and use a new one when finished.
+Nick V good tip, wish i had thought of that
Otherwise great video, informative and you take your time. Some people will rush and ultimately forget to do something, etc. Also, I like the fact that you fill the filter beforehand - that will ensure you are not starting the engine dry as it takes a few moments for the oil to be pumped up from the pan into the filter, then to the engine. Some people do not realize that....
For my cars I will typically fill it up to half the mark (so mid way min-max), drive around for 10-20km, than shut it off, wait a couple of minutes and then get a reading on the dip stick. Due to the expansion of the oil at high temperature it will typically read 'max'. My message is, never top it off to the max on a cold engine as it would then read way above max once it's warm (which is your typical usage condition). This is my experience with VWs and Audis.
Hey I just wanted to point out that your gallon oil has measurement markings on the side as-well. No need to fill the one quart, just watch your markings on the gallon.
+T0M DC cool
Nice video. Two issues... Pre-filling the filter isn't that much of an issue. The anti-drain back valve is actually the rubber piece you see through the the holes. The bypass pressure valve you see in the middle of the filter basically allows cold oil (Thicker) to bypass when filter restriction becomes too much or pressure has exceeded. Secondly, It appears you tighten the filter "too much". "Hand tight" is "Hand tight". Otherwise, nice video!
thanks bro!
Most oil filter instructions say to turn it on til the rubber makes contact, then turn the filter an additional 3/4 turn.
good call
Just a heads up when using a crows foot on a torque wrench you have to keep it at a 90 degree angle on the wrench. anything over 90 degrees your changing the length of the torque wrench which changes the torque value.
+Michael Pecoraro good tip
Neon Raven...right....I wasn't sure how much but I knew it did change it..........
You have the best video dude for doing an oil change in this car. Thanks for posting it.
+CEPHALEXIN323 thanks, im about to do oil change #2 in a few weeks. i gotta buy a few more quarts of oil..
Checking the level right after running it will give you a false reading. You need to allow the oil time to drain back into the pan. I wouldn't start the car until you filled to the full mark. There's no benefit to running it before topping off. That would be why it took over the recommended 5.4. If you check it cold now it should be over full.
Mark S. you are right man... i checked it last night after my logging runs. it is about 1/4" over the top crosshatch. nothing im worried about for something that close, but good looking out.
If you hold that 1 Qt bottle the other way around with the pour hole more upwards it will fill quicker.
Also for the little I would save letting the rest of the bottle drain into the car I don't want to turn my back and let other dust debris and things get into the oil system. I'd rather pour what I need and cover the cap on it.
WOW man when you flipped that filter, it was just epic. I love all your old change videos and this one is my favourite.
Pvulture b i should make a slo-mo mini clip of that action.
LastHumansGarage Sheer confidence.
Torquing the F108N to 30 ft-lbs is excessive. Fumoto says not to follow Subaru's drain plug torque. Fumoto states the torque for the F108N is 18 ft-lbs.
SKU F108N
Product type N
Thread size M16-1.5
Sealing Fiber Gasket
Nipple diameter 3/8" (10mm)
Nipple length 1/2" (13.5mm)
Body Forged brass
Handle Stainless steel
Spring Stainless steel
Ball Brass (chrome plated)
RoHS Complied (2015/863)
Hydraulic test pressure 0.6 MPa
Leakage test pressure 0.10 MPa
Pressure Rating 145 PSI
Temperature Rating -40° to 365° F
Recommended Torque 221 in lbs (18 ft lbs)
good tips
@@LastHumansGarage Perhaps a reason (compressed fiber gasket) for the seepage.
I ordered a valve to put on my Crosstrek now that the car is out of warranty. I guess that I could have started doing my own oil changes sooner. I'm feeling confident about an ease of getting under my car without jacking. If you can get under a WRX without jacking, then the Crosstrek should be a breeze.
Both the WRX and Crosstrek share the same 2.0L engine, but different mine takes 0w20 instead of 5w30. The turbo must be a reason for the difference. I'm okay with the 0 weight living in Canada with our unhuman Januaries.
I'm glad that I watched yout video. I ordered the F104 and throught that was strange that two cars that were basically Imprezas with the same engine had different oil pan threads. You probably saved me at minimum, delaying the installation by one oil change, or at worst an oil pan, well maybe that's not the worst outcome for a misthreaded/crossthreaded valve.
nice one! good luck!
That drain valve is sweet. Looking forward to installing one. On my toyota, the difference between the dipstick L and H marks is exactly one quart.
+MarzNet256 i got my 2nd oil change coming up in a few days. can't wait to enjoy that valve.
+LastHumansGarage Where are you buying your oil, filter, and crush gasket? Looking for the cheapest or most convenient place in the area as well
+AuLKenny i bought my oil off amazon, subaru oem oil. cheaper than aftermarket actually. oil filters oem online, amazon or ebay. i bought a 6 or 8 pack for a discount.
+LastHumansGarage Any concerns with buying batches of stuff like filters? I know if something ever does go wrong with the car, and you've been doing it yourself, the dealer will want all receipts and a detailed service log. I've heard some people buy single filters and just the amount of oil necessary so the receipts line up with self-services. Any thoughts on that?
My god how long did it take you? You could easily do it in 10 minutes.
+Jean-Francois Prince 4 hours.
@Geo J i have my 2018 GTI, yes, and its now faster than my WRX ever was. and I havent even used my E30 tune yet.
Do what in 10 minutes
I did this mod last month. I feel a bit gyped though. My valve didnt come with any locks. It takes a good amount of force to move the lever though, so I think Im ok. I have a Boomba short rod and some RCE springs on the way. Hopefully I can do an install vid like yours. I think I need better recording gear though.
ALT3REDB3AST they dont come with locks. i bought them all separately.
just future reference... when torquing with a crows foot. if you want to torque correctly the crows food should be perpendicular of the torque wrench (90 degrees). at that angle your torque wrench can be set at the desired value and no adjustments are required. you can have it at any angle but there are formulas for what angle it is at and what setting you need to have the torque wrench at for your desired torque value. not that what you did was super wrong or anything but i just thought if you wanted to know... there you go. coming from an air force jet engine mechanic of 6 years.
thanks man
Actually not. Believe it or not a moment/couple/torque slides along the lever arm (beam) and doesn't matter as long as the drive between socket or crows foot is a pivot without extra forces.
The reason it drains so fast is the crappy subaru oil goes down to 5w30 after use. I use pennzoil ultra platnium and change af 3500 miles to make sure my viscosity is not so low.
+Michael Lilly Try Rotella T6. It holds up very nice.
How come you don't get an oil extractor? Will get the most oil out of the motor. And you don't even need to lift the car up.
Are you using stands to support the car before creeping under ? at 3:37 I see only the jack. If you don't want the oil to drain from the filter when you flip it hold the filter upright and flip the car...
Greenflag101 i do not get under the car without jackstands.
Metal flake is not the end of the world after breaking in a engine. If you take oil analysis samples, you can't do one on engine breaking in, because of the usual heavy metallic reading. now after the engine breaks in, and you see metal flake, then you have issues. you could also do oil analysis if you wanted, they usually cost around $30. they give you the read out of what is wearing, bearings, rings, cylinder walls, etc. the advantage of having oil analysts is you can have a idea of how the engine is wearing, or any premature wearing of components. In aviation we take oil samples on everything, except after engine break ins. you could also cut open your filter, and inspect the media. and run a magnet through the media. you will see carbon chunks, thats normal. again its something thats required in the aviation world.... not really for the automotive world.
+Delta22_Build cool
The reason why it drains so quick is because the oil is up to operating temperature vs cold start idle etc.
Jeff W. ya that was most of the reason.. i should have let it cool down more, but you know me.
loved the video. bought the valve and will put it on my first oil change.
sweet man, its killer. mine is still solid at 2.5 years, but i might replace it with a fresh one soon just for fun.
I absolutely agree that the Fumoto drain valve makes an oil change quicker and less messier but in my opinion a magnetic drain plug is more beneficial in the long run. In my opinion it's more important to me that the drain plug pulls out metal shaving rather than making the oil change quicker and less messier but then again that's only me.
true its about 50/50... wouldnt it solve everything if the Fumoto had a magnet?? but i wouldnt give up the Fumoto man.. its so relaxing doing oil changes now.. and you wear out your oil pan threads also, swapping the bolt every 3000 miles...
LastHumansGarage Not sure about wearing out the thread part because I seen cars that have 150k+ miles on it and they never replace their oil pan due to bad thread.
then you havent had experience with VW's.
LastHumansGarage Nope I haven't because JDM all the way. German cars have too much problems with them.
lol... did you just call a VW an American car?
My dealer only sells the blue oil filter.... But I guess it works too
Good to wet the oil filter with new oil before putting it on as you did.
yup
Do you by chance have any of your logs uploaded to view for your Rev 4 tune? It would be interesting to see if the knock is learning it's self away. (-1.4, -1.4, -1.4, -.70, -.70, -.70, -.35, -.35, 0, 0 ect. Unless when you go WOT a few more times the knock stays the same in the RPM range. The ECU will learn it away in -.35 increments (at least in the STi.) which usually means it was phantom/fake knock as long as it doesn't come back every time you do a pull in that RPM range that is. It will add timing back in, in those increments.
As far as the oil being watery is concerned, it's been proven through UOA's that the OEM oil sheers down to a 20 weight after as few as 1500 miles. Everybody has different views on what oil to run as you can find those crazy threads on Nasioc, and iWSTi.
Scott2011STI G this is the datazap for revision 4 www.datazap.me/u/jobber/torque-performance-stage-1-ebcs-revision-4
Well when you start the car the oil will not read correctly until it all drains down to the oil pan... after it settles you’ll have a better reading.
cool, thanks for the tips
I just bought a 14mm dura last socket and it didn't fit !!! Any suggestions to over come getting the drain plug loose? I want to install the drain plug u now have, thanks!
Interesting how u did without raising car. Good video.
oh did i? this was a long time ago.
@@LastHumansGarage looks like it. I could be wrong. Lol
where'd you get the safety clip? I got my valve from subi speed and it only came with the valve. thanks for the vid
you can get it here. amzn.to/2cqEkZS
So it's a pretty new car, you can change the oil by yourself? I mean it won't void any warranty or anything?
+Jianer CHENG (Jacob) no
Have you had any issues with this so far? Ive seen n heard some horror stories about them leaking. Kinda skeptical to buy one
no issues, but after a year, it might be weeping a tad. but it never drips. i been meaning to put a fresh one on soon
weeping to me means a leak. I have been thinking about buying of of these but keep looking for vids like yours and trying to decide. I don like the sound of your description so now I am on the fence again
@@whitey4311 I remember LHG say and torque the valve to 30 ft-lbs, which was excessive. That probably caused the weeping due to a flattened and squished fiber gasket.
What if you pour the oil in the filter one night ahead and put it in freezer? So the oil will become thick and not likely to come out when you flip it upside down?
hmmmmmmmmmmmmm
noobwow2009
One of the main reasons I use synthetic oil is the superior cold flow characteristics it offers, unlike conventional oil which does thicken with cold temps.
Great video! Thanks for the info and plan to install one on my Forester.
hell yes brother
Quick question... I thought since it's a lease that Subaru takes care of oil changes?
suppose, if i wanted them to.
on my leased Subaru, I was responsible for oil changes as I recall. It was at least 4 years ago...
Question for you. Did you ever install an aftermarket electronic boost control solenoid? If so which one? I was told that going with a stage 2 and a catted/catless Jpipe, a 3 port EBCS is required. Thanks
its not required.
If you run a Catless J-Pipe, it's a good idea to get a EBCS to prevent boost spikes.
What's the big deal if you go over or under the recommended amount of oil??
almethus gutierrez try putting in an extra 1/2 quart next time..
Put a flattened out cardboard box under the drain pan to catch splashes. Mine takes 5.1 quarts, one 5 quart jug is good enough for me, never seen the Subaru 4 quart jug - that's just weird. Filling the filter on a top mount filter does nothing. I change every 8k to 10k miles, no problems at all.
most filters have a anti-drainback valve. so the oil does not pour out completely after i tighten the top mount filter. but good tips otherwise
@@LastHumansGarage I've never heard of such a thing, guess you learn something everyday. So let me ask you, I'm about to install one of these valves. I've seen other videos where they use the crows foot because you can't get a regular crescent wrench on there. Why can't I use a 17 mm socket? It seems like it fits right on there perfectly. also, if you got the little white plastic adapter for the hose, do you leave that on there or take it off every time? I put it on and took it off once and I felt like I was going to break it. I figure I'm going to break that cheap plastic locking thing, I'll just use cable ties after that
@@burns1210 you prob cant grab enough on the end for a socket, but it depends on your valve style i suppose. some have spouts and some dont. not many people use that plastic adapter thing.
Why don't you buy some ramps?
+Jim Dailey had ramps, they slipped on the floor once and cracked an underbelly cover. i sold them right after that.
LastHumansGarage get the ryno ramps. They have rubber feet and never slip on a smooth concrete surface.
Im curious as to what will happen if you put extra oil.??
almethus gutierrez if you put in an extra quart, you run a risk of blowing oil out some engine seals if it expands too much.
Got the valve. When did you do the first oil change? I am at 1130k
i did mine at 3000-4000 or something.
LastHumansGarage ok I hear of people doing it at 1000
was the crows foot size the same as the OEM drain bolt by chance? 17mm I think
+Scott2011STI G pretty sure it was bigger
+LastHumansGarage Darn, was hoping it was OEM size. Maybe it was 19mm. I was going to order a set of Crowfoot wrenches from amazon and want to make sure it has the correct size. It goes 17,19,21,22,24
Man...that drain plug...what a pita. Got it off the first time after a whole buncha fiddling. Went to do a second change today and absolutely could not get the damn thing off. Ordered the fumoto and guess I'll be bringing it to a shop for the second change. Irritating.
Mitch Brenner Use a breaker bar bro
Yeah unfortunately I don't ahve one - I'm new to trying to turn my own wrenches...and it seems I Sheared the head off the plug so needed some help getting it off anyway.
Got the fumoto so the problem hasn't happened again.
How's that fumoto drain working for ya?
good. ill be putting one on my GTI once i get a metal pan.
Read the owners manual that will tell you exact amounts.
yes.. that is always an option.. though its never quite right... that's the amount with a bone dry engine.
On subiespeed it says it’s for the 2015+Sti, so will it work for the 2015+wrx also?
i would guess those engines use the same thread size, but can't be sure.
You never get an accurate reading after starting your car for a few seconds with cold oil. I bet you ended up over full. That's why most oil change places including your dealer will overfill your oil following this procedure.
The correct way to check oil level is after a few minutes of shutting off a fully hot engine.
Whats a solution to tighten it without a crows foot?
+Joey Hua not many, just a wrench by hand.
what lbs did you set your wrench for to tighten the fumoto valve?
+bien mendoza i forget. i didnt say it in the video? the same as the oem spec.
+LastHumansGarage You said 30 ft.-lbs.
Where to dump this oil in pan ?
your garabage dump if they collect oil, or most auto shop will take old oil free
Where did you get oil drain safety clip?
+Chris Yien prob fumoto.com
Two questions, why do you fill the filter oil? And whats the fumoto valve for?
Thanks
redrogodbz #1 - faster building oil pressure on startup. #2 - for faster oil drains in the future.
what is the size of that valve and where did you purchase?
+sept1991 dang, i thought i had it in the description. well the number should be easy to find, and i got it off amazon.
+sept1991 The F-108N would be 16mm, which you can verify on Amazon or the Fumoto website (link in description). It also comes in a nipple-less and short nipple versions; prices vary by about $3 either way.
You want to sell one of the old style safety clips?
+Buldgr not even worth selling man. shipping would cost more than the part.
+LastHumansGarage I'm willing to pay for the part + shipping if you are interested
What size is the crows foot wrench?
3/4
is fumoto valve reliable?
umm ya.. look at my latest Forester video where I mention it. 5-6 years later..
@@LastHumansGarage okay thank you soo much sir....
I used 5.5/5.6 qts in my first change...
Luke Strothman oh dude my perrin shift bushing arrives today
LastHumansGarage the brass bushing?
LastHumansGarage - Boom! Get that installed! Super easy. :) You'll love it.
accordracin96 ya the brass one.
where do you get the tray??
What tray?
+LastHumansGarage the one to change the oil
Jose Del Moral they sell it in autozone
Any auto part store would sell them. Probably even Wal-Mart
And it isn't make in CHINA but in JAPAN. I have it on my two cars
sweet
Sorry I meant it goes down to 5w20
Michael Lilly ah no wonder.. it was pretty runny oil.
You're wasting microfiber towels! Other than that, thanks for sharing.
cool
Please go METRIC
OK!
Oil filter too tight.
yolo
Jesus that oil was black and at 4200 miles
+SYNCPHAN1OM not really. it was see-thru actually..
$36 for a gallon of synthetic that you can get for $20 to $25 at Walmart in a 5 quart jug? Subaru oil ain't better than Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline.
mobil 1 is one of the worst oils.. its all advertising which caused its popularity. i have a lot of oil reports showing it worst in many areas.
Actually, the company that makes Subaru oil (Idemitsu) makes a very good oil. They don't skimp on the additives and I would say Mobil or Castrol does not have any advantage other than price.
@@LastHumansGarage That is utter absolute rubbish... both my AMG and my Porsche say Mobil 1 only. I've been using it exclusively for them with heavy and hard use since 1996...
Dirk Fromhein
Same here. I prefer Mobil 1 EP which is made from a group IV base stock. I’ve been using M1 for many years. Opened the top end on my Honda 3.5 V6 to adjust the valves at 120k miles. Looked like new. Surprisingly, all valves were within .001 of spec. I expected the exhaust valves to wear into the seat reducing lash, but they were all in spec.
Also, I’ve been using the Fumoto valves for many years too. No issues and I don’t use the locks either.
looks runny
+MrRotatorcuff a bit
Does that gasket on the valve go nad after a while?
Bad*
which one? the oil pan one? no it never moves. so it never goes bad.