3D Printed Change Gears In A Heavy Duty Lathe?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2021
- In this video I show you how I 3D printed a missing change gear for my 14x40 Takisawa metal lathe. Plastic change gears are nothing new on smaller machines, but on machine this large I was skeptical as to wether or not they would hold up. To my surprise, they work great! Check out www.rushgears.com fo this handy 3d gear generator!
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I enjoyed the video. I, too, have used 3D printed gears temporarily. A couple points I would like to make. One, Fusion 360 has a gear maker function that does the same thing that the gear maker website does. It comes as part of 360. And Two, you only need to worry about tooth count when there is a second gear on the same shaft that is being engaged in the next gear. In this case, since the gear is directly driving the next gear, the tooth count is irrelevant. If, on the other hand, the other gear on that shaft was driving the next gear, the ratio between those two is critical. In your case, they likely called for a 95T merely because of the needed diameter. The 85T or 100T would have worked equally as well.
On a side note, when you couple the 100T and the 127T gear together, that gives you the proper ratio to cut metric gears.
absolute game changer! currently in ebay/forum hell trying to find one missing change gear for my 1967 lathe.... going to this website now and cranking out gears on my ender 3s all day!!
I have printed gears for my star lathe allowing me to cut threads not on my quick change.
You did not need to make a 95T gear for the threading operation you demonstrated. The gear is being used as an idler. Any gear that filled the void between the top and bottom gear would have worked fine. The 100T that you already have would have done the job much better.
Very good point, I don’t know if I would have thought about that but it makes perfect sense, especially since it’s on a moving arm, as long as diameter of the gear can engage with the other 2 gears you should be golden.
@@jimnolimit The middle gear, i.e. 95T, does not have any effect whatsoever on rotational speed of the lead screw, but it does reverse the direction of rotation. This is a very common situation on lathes for some operations. Both gears on the middle shaft would have to be engaged for them to have any effect on the ratio. The second gear in this situation is just being used as a spacer.
@@EDesigns_FL You are correct, that middle gear is just an idler. I deleted my original replies.
Would you mind elaborating on that? Because as little as I know, it would change the rpm unless 1) you cahge the other gears to match the rpm, or 2) you adjust the speed of rotation some other way. I don't know how lathes work, but I am curious. Peace
@@jtcmlt1 The 95T gear is just transmitting power from the top gear to the bottom gear on the leadscrew. Other than changing the direction of rotation, it has absolutely no effect on speed/drive ratio. It just bridges the gap between them.
FYI, you can also go to McMaster and download 3D CAD files of most of their parts. Some will be more "artistic representations" rather than fully functional, but it's better than nothing.
Credit to AvE for putting that trick in one of his vidjayeos a year or two ago.
I actually use that feature all the time! It’s a great way to get correct thread pitches for bolts and nuts into fusion and then you can modify them as needed!
You have to be careful about that I believe in their terms and service they say your not allowed to 3d print the cad models
Good video. Thanks for sharing your experiment.
I am a big fan of PETG for gears. In my experience, PETG tends to yield quite a bit before failure, PLA tends to fail abruptly. I'm glad everything worked out.
Thank you for sharing, great video👍👍👍
Fusion has a gear tool that just spits out whatever you want. It's super easy.
Another idea would be to use a smaller steel gear as a hub. Just print your larger gear with a pocket in the middle for the smaller steel gear. The teeth interfacing with the plastic would be way stronger than the keyway, and it would take a whole lot less plastic and time to print.
I agree with having a 3D printer around the shop even just for useful things like this. An alternative material worth looking into would be PETG if you can, or even Nylon.
Annealed* PLA smokes just about every other printable thermoplastic available, just anneal finishes gears in sand and they'll become way stronger. PLA is just such a cheap and easy to print filament, IMO its well worth it to anneal it and then have it outperform nylon.
I read the other comments below and I enjoyed the video and even if I never use it I learned from it . Stay well Chris
You could print an 95ngear that has a hole that matches the shape of a smaller metal gear. That way you can use the keyway of the metal one.
Yep Especially since he said he somehow got two of the same gear in one size. Use the extra as a carrier for another larger size.
Outstanding problem solving and sharing.
Thanks for watching!
I've printed gears for my atlas 12,it works well, I printed mine in ABS which was hard for my printer but,got through it. The gear generator is a great tool I didn't know of. I'll be printing gears to slow the feed speeds next.
Great video as always
I've always said, every house needs a 3D printer (or 5). PC would have been a more durable filament... But hey, PLA got you through your immediate need. Prusa will have a extremely strong PC/carbon fiber filament out sometime in June. And it will be easy to print with, unlike normal PC. PETG is another filament that is less brittle than PLA.
OK...that's really, really cool.
Very interesting video.
Thanks for watching!
You know... That gear you just made, that probably took forever to print... Yeah, that's not actually needed 😉 it's just an idler gear to take up the space in between the two gears... You could have used any one of the other gears you already had, as long as they would "bridge the gap" between the two gears... But it was a good demonstration of something a 3D printer might actually be useful for 👍
I love this.. He just does things, he doesn't really understand or even try to learn enough, just the bare minimum to do the thing he wants to do.
I've been meaning to do this for a missing gear on my old Atlas 3950. Nylon should last forever
Very useful and interesting video. PLA is pretty strong. What infill and perimeters did you end up selecting. Mahalo for sharing! 🙂🐒
i think mr pete printed gears for one of his lathes also
He did! I wound up finding that video after I got this going. It’s really awesome for people with antique or obscure lathes, I was really surprised how well it worked in something as large as this 14x40
Great video! What filament did you use?
The Bacon Saver 3000! 👍
Hopefully that website doesn't take away that free feature!
Hey man, thanks for the explanation on how to read that chart. I have the same lathe and was wondering how you figured out you needed the 65 tooth to cut 13 tpi?
Chris, elegant solution to a common problem. I have a Eastwood 7x12 mini lathe. How long did it take to print? Also is there a strong filament you could have used?
This gear was pretty big took about 14 hours to print. I’m still learning on ways to optimize and speed up 3D printing so I’m sure there’s a faster way. The PLA seemed to be good, but I’m reading here in the comments there may be a stronger option. Good luck!
PETG is stronger than PLA and if you want stronger parts I often print with carbon fiber reinforced PETG filament. Like Carbon-X. The only thing with carbon fibre filament it is very abrasive and you need to check the wear on your nozzles and feed gears.
Did you check whether plastic on plastic really would have a lower coefficient of friction? Usually (at least with metals), you get a lower friction between different materials than when both surfaces are of the same material. Making all entirely out of plastic, especially partially hollow 3D prints, would also mean more play in the system, which could mess with the teeth alignment. From what I've heard, alignment and matching geometry is the most important factor for gear wear. Besides that, more flex could also impede precision or introduce vibrations. Metal wheels with added plastic teeth should suffer less from these problems than fully plastic ones, which is probably the reason the original ones are made that way.
If you had used a little bit of lube it prob won't happen again oil works miracles
Actual plastic gears for "mini lathes" (cheap import machines) are nylon so maybe using a nylon filament would help. PLA is very brittle so event petg could help with the snapping issue and it is easier to print than nylon
Abs or nylonx should do it
do you have a small X,Y difference/distortion in your printer? that gear looked a bit eliptical.
gears too close (tight) together. use a piece of printer paper in between the meshed gears to set proper backlash
Try Fusion 360. Pretty sure there is a few helpful plug-ins to get you mostly the way there
You might want to add some grease to that gear to increase it's durability.
I hate to tell ya' but the new, printed gear is only used to transmit power and reverse direction. It has absolutely nothing to do with the overall gear ratio and/or thread pitch. Any gear with the correct module (M1.5 in this case?) that can span the distance between the stud gear and the input shaft gear will work for this set up.
We have a lathe at our shop. That went down. Only problem is it's the auto feed geers.
Looking for a cheaper way to replace. I will have to look into the information you provided. Thanks. And love watching your content!
I’d definitely check out that rush gears website, even if you can’t 3D print maybe they can help you get the right stuff made in metal! They saved me on this one!
Now you need a 3D printer that prints in metal.......
Those things are amazing! One day we will all have one!
@@MakeEverything I have to ask.... Know anyone who grew up in Elmont Long Island? I went to school with someone with the same last name.
@@AnthonyCurreri I don’t, but probably a cousin of my Dads! There are a few Zeppieri’s around Long Island! I am originally from East Rockaway and my Dad had lived in New Hyde Park
@@MakeEverything very cool. I grew up in Elmont then moved a bunch of times all around Long Island. Now I'm in Orlando since 2003. Love your vids.
* nylonx
used CF nylon (15-20% CF)
Maybe you did not realise this but it does not matter how many teeth are on that gear. It does not have any effect on the ratio. Here is really good video that explains it in detail. th-cam.com/video/KbwM-cOx1c0/w-d-xo.html I have an old lathe with missing gears which is why I watched the video, I wonder if the 3d printed gears would handle driving another gear via the keyway.
I don't know who needs to hear this but stop saving all your money. Invest some of it if you want financial freedom.
Invest in Crypto, gold, silver, buy stock, forex market. Anything! Just invest and save yourself.
Good talk! I tell that to my friends everyday. Saving is good investing is much better, I used to think saving money would save me but NO, saving is just keeping it to spend later.
What if you don't know how to trade any of these?
@@bitbcrypto...2118 I mean, I see your point. Some people have the money and are willing to invest but the problem is where to?
@@bitbcrypto...2118 This is 2021
People who aren't even traders makes money from the stock, crypto and forex markets.
Please don't tell me this is printed in PLA..
It is, worked great
@@MakeEverything That explains the broken teeth. Try ABS, is twice as strong as PLA
You please don’t tell you AGAIN?
Tests prove otherwise