Hello-Thank you for reaching out to us. We would like to look into this for you. Could you please send us a private message with the complete model and serial number on the unit? We look forward to hearing back from you. Sincerely-DM
Thanks for posting this incredibly helpful video, along with the related "Upgrading your existing RVAC with a G# RV air conditioning..." Neither applied exactly to my use case, but, taken together, they tell me almost everything I need to know, but I'm experiencing one issue I'm hoping you can help with. My project is to upgrade from a RARMN1A manual, non-ducted ceiling assembly with the kit that comes with the RAREN1A Non-Ducted Ceiling Assembly, the RARMC2A Control Box, and the RARWT2B Black Thermostat. Once installed, everything is working really well, except for the furnace control. This kit is supposed to be able to also run a furnace, so I've removed the very simple Dometic furnace thermostat and run the two wires from the back of it to the RARMC2A control box, instead. This video suggest all I have to do is run those two wires to the two Blue/White wires of the RARMC2A. The "Upgrading your existing RVAC..." video suggests it is important to also run 12V to one of those wires. I've tried both wiring options, but neither seems to activate the furnace. So, two questions, 1) should 12V be run to one of the blue/white wires or not? and 2) what am I missing (what might cause the AC portion to work well, but the furnace control not to work well)? Thanks.
G.E., please pass this information along to your engineers. There should either be (1), a board-mounted fuse on the +12VDC input power line, or (2), at the very least, you should instruct RV manufacturers to place an appropriate fuse on the +12VDC wire *next to the unit*. Our G.E. RARED1A failed, in a way that shorted +12VDC directly to ground. But because our Winnebago uses the same +12VDC circuit to power other devices, we lost power to our furnace, thermostat, lighting, and both vent fans. A simple fuse of appropriate amperage at the device itself would have saved many hours of aggravation and troubleshooting. Board-mounted fuses are a “best practice” solution that you should be following.
Hello there, we're very sorry to hear that your RV air conditioning unit is not working as expected. We know a situation like this is not ideal, and we recommend scheduling a service appointment for one of our technicians to assess your unit. You can schedule an appointment by calling us at 1-877-540-7837 or contacting your RV dealer. Please know we are always available if other questions or concerns come up. All the best. - PM
@@geappliances I did this, and have now been waiting over two full weeks for a follow-up phone call or email (I got the original, first email confirming that they have my case# and information). Is your warranty service normally this slow? FWIW, I have been on the road for the past 10 days without much connectivity. But I'm disappointed that upon returning, no effort on GE's part has been made to reach me to arrange for service. No further emails, voicemails, texts, anything.
Hey again, we're sorry to know that you have not been able to schedule a service appointment. Please send us a private message via Facebook or Instagram with the case number that you mentioned in your reply, alongside your contact information, so we can learn more about this situation. We look forward to hearing from you. Take care. - PM
@@geappliances I replied to the original email, and a form letter told me to take my GE A/C to an RV dealer for warranty service. Since none of the RV dealers in my area have openings for at least 2 months, I feel like GE is just trying to pass the buck and dodge responsibility for this warranty repair. I will be avoiding purchases of any GE products from now on, and I strongly advise anyone looking for an A/C unit, RV or otherwise, to avoid your products, because you are either unable to help your customers with warranty problems, or you just don't give a damn.
Hello, service for GE Appliances located inside an RV should be performed by an Authorized RV Servicer/Dealer for the best assistance possible. Appointment times and dates will vary according to the RV Servicer/Dealer, and we do apologize that there is a delay in appointments for the servicers you have contacted. We recommend trying to contact them in case an appointment slot becomes available for a sooner date. All the best. - PM
Okay, so this is the 2nd RV/Camper AC I’ve installed and let me tell you… it was not easy. Of course, you’ll want to do this when it’s not hot and sunny and be sure to check that you have everything handy. My unit QRC15AACWH2 and ceiling mount included a thermostat, but no thermostat cable. Home Depot sells thermostat cable by the foot, and I ended up only using 3 of the 7 wires, because I’m not using the heater/furnace feature. I would suggest doing a video for only AC users, considering the heater unit is an upgrade and not included. Also, the additional steps for connecting the heater made this video super confusing and hard to follow. Why did you make part of the wire diagram BROWN?! Obscuring part of the connections?! Also, it was very difficult to see which wires this guy was working with and the time on screen was so short, I had to keep pausing and rewinding the video. Show a close up. Get your hands out of the way! Let us see what the heck you’re actually doing and let us see which wires you’re working with. The narrated instructions were confusing while trying to make out what the installer was actually doing… Plain and simple, if you’re installing just the AC unit without a heater, then ignore all of the instructions and wires marked for furnace. Buy the thermostat cable and get a little extra just in case. Inside the AC control box, you’ll need to connect 3 wires for 12V positive and negative, and connect the 2 yellow wires together too. The BLUE wire from the thermostat connects to the two black wires (negative/GRND). GREEN from the thermostat - connects to the two RED wires (positive). The YELLOW wire from the thermostat connects to the YELLOW wire in the control box. The instructions in this video state that reversed polarity for the green and blue wires will not cause any problem. The instructions in the associated thermostat installation video imply you’re routing 12V power from wherever your thermostat is wall-mounted, up to your AC’s control box, but if you have 12V power up inside your ceiling cut-out, then that power should be connected to the Control Box’s wires, then - connect your thermostat directly to those connections (inside the control box). Sorry if this is confusing, but this video really left me scratching my head. Also, these AC units have about a dozen sharp screws sticking out of the bottom so be sure the leave the styrofoam and cardboard on the bottom until it’s in place for install and wear gloves. I taped the bottom on while moving the unit, but after taking off the cardboard, I scratched-up my hands and my roof. Note, the instructions for install recommend leaning the AC unit up on the back / radiator end prior to installation. I did not do that because I thought it was bad to tip anything with freon, but I should have tilted the unit on its tail-end. I would highly recommend getting butyl tape for sealing up the vent/ceiling hole. If you can get help with installing this unit, then please do. I’m lucky to have access to a truck with a tall roof so I was able to lift this onto the tailgate, onto the truck’s roof, and then up and onto the top of my camper. Lifting this solo is not easy and getting it up a ladder by yourself would be superhuman, but if you have a truck, then you’re in luck. Summary: this video should be re-done with a focus on AC-ONLY-INSTALLATION and a simple, clear focus with hands out of the control box or holding the connected wires for a few seconds for your viewers to easily see which wires are being connected. And, the thermostat instructions should be included since you can’t operate this AC without it. I installed my AC in a ducted-ceiling camper and it’s important to note that this AC does not function without the thermostat being properly installed. Lastly, my thermostat had 4 pins in the back, which all remained switched down. I did not need to adjust any of the pins. Oh and… the thermostat should include a tiny flathead micro-screwdriver because they’re super cheap and not everyone has one handy. Imagine having to drive to the store for a 10 cent screwdriver and $5 worth of thermostat wire after dropping $1000 on this AC unit…
Hello-Thank you for taking the time to reach out. We appreciate all the suggestions you have made as we take our customers feedback and suggestions to use towards changes or improvements in the future. If there is anything we can help with please don't hesitate to reach out and let us know. All the best!- DM
@GE is there any possible way to get the complete wiring diagram of the control board??
Hello-Thank you for reaching out to us. We would like to look into this for you. Could you please send us a private message with the complete model and serial number on the unit? We look forward to hearing back from you. Sincerely-DM
Thanks for posting this incredibly helpful video, along with the related "Upgrading your existing RVAC with a G# RV air conditioning..." Neither applied exactly to my use case, but, taken together, they tell me almost everything I need to know, but I'm experiencing one issue I'm hoping you can help with. My project is to upgrade from a RARMN1A manual, non-ducted ceiling assembly with the kit that comes with the RAREN1A Non-Ducted Ceiling Assembly, the RARMC2A Control Box, and the RARWT2B Black Thermostat. Once installed, everything is working really well, except for the furnace control. This kit is supposed to be able to also run a furnace, so I've removed the very simple Dometic furnace thermostat and run the two wires from the back of it to the RARMC2A control box, instead. This video suggest all I have to do is run those two wires to the two Blue/White wires of the RARMC2A. The "Upgrading your existing RVAC..." video suggests it is important to also run 12V to one of those wires. I've tried both wiring options, but neither seems to activate the furnace. So, two questions, 1) should 12V be run to one of the blue/white wires or not? and 2) what am I missing (what might cause the AC portion to work well, but the furnace control not to work well)? Thanks.
G.E., please pass this information along to your engineers. There should either be (1), a board-mounted fuse on the +12VDC input power line, or (2), at the very least, you should instruct RV manufacturers to place an appropriate fuse on the +12VDC wire *next to the unit*.
Our G.E. RARED1A failed, in a way that shorted +12VDC directly to ground. But because our Winnebago uses the same +12VDC circuit to power other devices, we lost power to our furnace, thermostat, lighting, and both vent fans. A simple fuse of appropriate amperage at the device itself would have saved many hours of aggravation and troubleshooting. Board-mounted fuses are a “best practice” solution that you should be following.
Hello there, we're very sorry to hear that your RV air conditioning unit is not working as expected.
We know a situation like this is not ideal, and we recommend scheduling a service appointment for one of our technicians to assess your unit. You can schedule an appointment by calling us at 1-877-540-7837 or contacting your RV dealer.
Please know we are always available if other questions or concerns come up. All the best. - PM
@@geappliances I did this, and have now been waiting over two full weeks for a follow-up phone call or email (I got the original, first email confirming that they have my case# and information). Is your warranty service normally this slow? FWIW, I have been on the road for the past 10 days without much connectivity. But I'm disappointed that upon returning, no effort on GE's part has been made to reach me to arrange for service. No further emails, voicemails, texts, anything.
Hey again, we're sorry to know that you have not been able to schedule a service appointment.
Please send us a private message via Facebook or Instagram with the case number that you mentioned in your reply, alongside your contact information, so we can learn more about this situation.
We look forward to hearing from you. Take care. - PM
@@geappliances I replied to the original email, and a form letter told me to take my GE A/C to an RV dealer for warranty service. Since none of the RV dealers in my area have openings for at least 2 months, I feel like GE is just trying to pass the buck and dodge responsibility for this warranty repair. I will be avoiding purchases of any GE products from now on, and I strongly advise anyone looking for an A/C unit, RV or otherwise, to avoid your products, because you are either unable to help your customers with warranty problems, or you just don't give a damn.
Hello, service for GE Appliances located inside an RV should be performed by an Authorized RV Servicer/Dealer for the best assistance possible. Appointment times and dates will vary according to the RV Servicer/Dealer, and we do apologize that there is a delay in appointments for the servicers you have contacted.
We recommend trying to contact them in case an appointment slot becomes available for a sooner date.
All the best. - PM
Okay, so this is the 2nd RV/Camper AC I’ve installed and let me tell you… it was not easy.
Of course, you’ll want to do this when it’s not hot and sunny and be sure to check that you have everything handy.
My unit QRC15AACWH2 and ceiling mount included a thermostat, but no thermostat cable. Home Depot sells thermostat cable by the foot, and I ended up only using 3 of the 7 wires, because I’m not using the heater/furnace feature.
I would suggest doing a video for only AC users, considering the heater unit is an upgrade and not included. Also, the additional steps for connecting the heater made this video super confusing and hard to follow. Why did you make part of the wire diagram BROWN?! Obscuring part of the connections?! Also, it was very difficult to see which wires this guy was working with and the time on screen was so short, I had to keep pausing and rewinding the video. Show a close up. Get your hands out of the way! Let us see what the heck you’re actually doing and let us see which wires you’re working with. The narrated instructions were confusing while trying to make out what the installer was actually doing…
Plain and simple, if you’re installing just the AC unit without a heater, then ignore all of the instructions and wires marked for furnace. Buy the thermostat cable and get a little extra just in case. Inside the AC control box, you’ll need to connect 3 wires for 12V positive and negative, and connect the 2 yellow wires together too.
The BLUE wire from the thermostat connects to the two black wires (negative/GRND).
GREEN from the thermostat - connects to the two RED wires (positive).
The YELLOW wire from the thermostat connects to the YELLOW wire in the control box.
The instructions in this video state that reversed polarity for the green and blue wires will not cause any problem.
The instructions in the associated thermostat installation video imply you’re routing 12V power from wherever your thermostat is wall-mounted, up to your AC’s control box, but if you have 12V power up inside your ceiling cut-out, then that power should be connected to the Control Box’s wires, then - connect your thermostat directly to those connections (inside the control box).
Sorry if this is confusing, but this video really left me scratching my head.
Also, these AC units have about a dozen sharp screws sticking out of the bottom so be sure the leave the styrofoam and cardboard on the bottom until it’s in place for install and wear gloves. I taped the bottom on while moving the unit, but after taking off the cardboard, I scratched-up my hands and my roof. Note, the instructions for install recommend leaning the AC unit up on the back / radiator end prior to installation. I did not do that because I thought it was bad to tip anything with freon, but I should have tilted the unit on its tail-end.
I would highly recommend getting butyl tape for sealing up the vent/ceiling hole.
If you can get help with installing this unit, then please do. I’m lucky to have access to a truck with a tall roof so I was able to lift this onto the tailgate, onto the truck’s roof, and then up and onto the top of my camper. Lifting this solo is not easy and getting it up a ladder by yourself would be superhuman, but if you have a truck, then you’re in luck.
Summary: this video should be re-done with a focus on AC-ONLY-INSTALLATION and a simple, clear focus with hands out of the control box or holding the connected wires for a few seconds for your viewers to easily see which wires are being connected. And, the thermostat instructions should be included since you can’t operate this AC without it.
I installed my AC in a ducted-ceiling camper and it’s important to note that this AC does not function without the thermostat being properly installed.
Lastly, my thermostat had 4 pins in the back, which all remained switched down. I did not need to adjust any of the pins.
Oh and… the thermostat should include a tiny flathead micro-screwdriver because they’re super cheap and not everyone has one handy. Imagine having to drive to the store for a 10 cent screwdriver and $5 worth of thermostat wire after dropping $1000 on this AC unit…
Hello-Thank you for taking the time to reach out. We appreciate all the suggestions you have made as we take our customers feedback and suggestions to use towards changes or improvements in the future. If there is anything we can help with please don't hesitate to reach out and let us know. All the best!- DM
I’m sure glad you had the dudes hand obscuring the entire shot
Thanks!!