Bro, CAD model and patent this... There are no companies that make a tie-in with the rocker armor and unibody like this. Absolutely brilliant to use countersunk hardware vs. button head or hex head. I think Clayton is the only company that does a full tie-in with belly armor for the front 3-link and rear 4-link.
Love the fact you made this choice and gave me some pointers and point of view which is awesome! Def use this to get some insight with my 01 xj I did ruff stuff shackle relocation on my rear after frame repairs and shock/ tank strap hanger bars swapped out with 2x2s and just today did my 2x6 rockers and plan go do the rear leaf hangers too saw your other videos and yikes Swiss cheese haha! I do have boat sides in mind and came across this video few days before and I love your results. Flawless and keep on Jeepin!
Glad you enjoyed the video, sounds like you have a sweet rig coming together yourself! I think boatsides are the way to go when it comes to 2x6 sliders on the Cherokees, give em a shot!
you could help the bend by giving it a bit of a relief with the cut off wheel, if your super concerned about strength in that area, just weld it back up once your done/satisfied with it. Great work on the XJ, its looking better each week!
That is a great idea. Honestly I should have done that and I would have gotten a straighter bend…once these get banged up I’ll make the next set like that. Thank you!
I love boatsides on Cherokees, I would recommend them to anyone, but yes the time to do them was just stupid long…would I do again though? Probably haha
I did all of the supports for mine already. The thing is they are not uniform, they are just wherever i put them. I think i could just get some sheet metal, hang it where i want it, and drill through the sheet and the supports at the same time. Then just tap the supports, or possibly drill and hole and weld a nut inside. I do like the counter sunk bolts though to reduce the possibility of catching a bolt head on something. I made my supports from the left over 2x6 that i used for the sliders. I think they turned out really well. I made the frame stiffeners and rock sliders into one video.
That sounds like it would be easier, drilling into the sheet and then the support and then tapping it. Deff takes half the measurements I did out of the equation. I do think the countersunk bolts are a great idea, I thought of using hex bolt head protectors, I'll use those if these end up not working out. I'll have to check out that video man!
If my XJ gets promoted to full time crawler status, I may go boat-side, but....I don't think I'm ready to go there yet. IDK, maybe. Glad to have a new video though. The boat-sides look awesome! Patch design idea.... "XJ Stuff & What-Not" lol
I love it! I really like the bolt on style. Bolt on is such a good idea. Have you thought about welding any ribs on the inside of the sheet metal to help stiffen it? Maybe it's unnecessary with the bends and stuff. I would absolutely do bolt on if I did boat sides, but I still have my rockers I think a person needs to cut the rockers out and do the 2x6 sliders to do boat sides. I like my rockers lol I've kept them undamaged so far. I'm running a set of jcr sliders then previously I had some homemade ones. I like my rear leafs I think you should keep leafs I know you mentioned maybe down the road doing coilovers in the rear. I'm running one of those shackles relocating kits that drops it down and it has a bunch of different holes for shackle angle adjustment. You can also get no lift kits with multiple holes. But maybe this would help your shackle angle? I'm running fox 2.5" remote reservoir shocks in the rear 10 inch travel and I'm kind of using the stock mounting locations sort of. I didn't want to lose cargo area or make holes etc.. I reworked the mounts on the body to accept a 1.5x1/2" race shock end. I believe it's 1.5"x1/2" if I remember correctly 1.5" wide for a 1/2" bolt. "Race" shocks have the wider ends than standard shocks and you can buy bolt on kits to change to a standard shock end but many kits are not for a race shock so they are too small i originally bought some adapter kits. Anyways it took a little welding and some thinking to make my top mounts they are almost in the same location I did utilize the bolt holes to help hold my adapters. Then down on the axle I'm running the shocks inboard more than stock I believe I pushed each one in 1 inch the main thing with that was to clear my leafs and bump stops it had to be done. Then the bottom shock mounts do hang below the axle it's the only way to fit a 10 inch shock without cutting floor it's not crazy far below the axle I think it's close to how far they hang down stock. Then for the reservoirs I got some billet clamps meant to hold them to tube and I put 2 short lengths of tube under there and mounted them in a way that wasn't super difficult to get to the adjusters because I got the adjustable shocks. Edit: I think I used the Barnes xj rear shock mounts on the axle but I didn't use the hardware with it that's meant for a standard shock. I had to utilize spacers and build out so that style mount helped make it all work. my rear axle is pushed back slightly but not much I still have the stock gas tank location and a rear Dana 60 so you can imagine that I can't go too far rearwards so my axle is close to where yours is I'm sure. If you want more than a 10 inch shock in the rear you'll need to go into the floor and stuff.
I love my welded on boatsides on the Red Chero but so many benefits to having bolt on boatsides. The Red Chero boatsides are ribbed on the inside so I did think about it, but then again they don't have supports, the whole boatside/ribs are the supports. I thought about at least doing it to the ends, where the bends are but I decided I'll start wheeling it, if it bends then the next ones I make will have ribs/more supports. As of right now I think I'm good...subconsciously I think I just don't want to be working on boatsides anymore lol. Yeah we'll see, I will probably keep the leafs, rather spend that coilover money on...an engine swap?...Well see. As for the leafs/shackle angle, I'm going to be ordering some revolver shackles here soon, they might just work with my current leaf set up I'm hoping. These Iron Rock 5.5" leafs are longer than stock so they make things interesting to set up. Very interesting that you've got 10" shocks in the rear without cutting the floor. I've been contemplating going 10 or 12s. I think I need to set up the brakes and all that first though...if you've got some photos of that rear shock setup lying around shoot them over to my email! thebackcountybeagles@gmail.com
@@backcountrybeagles I'm running Rubicon Express 5.5 leafs they are longer than stock. I actually really like the Rubicon Express leafs this is my 2nd set I've used more expensive leafs like metal cloak deaver and I've used rough country and some other miscellaneous but for a xj Rubicon Express 5.5 leafs have been my favorite if you have to look at different leafs I would highly suggest the Rubicon Express. I'll try to get some pictures sent over to you of the shocks. Essentially the mods on the body can just be bolt on if you make something like this bar pin eliminator linked below. I actually purchased this exact kit then learned about different size shocks and race shocks then I cut these in half and bolted them loosely to the shock and then bolted them in the car and went from there. I also tried to keep everything on the body as low profile as possible to get as much length as possible. I'm also running the Rubicon 5.5 leafs with an adjustable shackle but my shackle is adjusted all the way short then I have the shackle relocation drop kit which adds some lift. Also that drop kit adds pinion angle. I really like the drop kit but it's important to reinforce the stock leaf springs boxes/mounts so they don't rip off. Anyways I'll try to get some pictures over to you soon. I'm curious what your thinking on an engine swap I've had some ideas. I'm running a golen stroker. Cooling would be my main concern with a swap. I have reasons for not swapping mine I enjoy my setup a lot I love the aw4 too. www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/bar-pin-eliminator-shock-relocation-brackets-rear.html
I did boatsides on mine a couple months ago. I welded mine in 100% and cut out the floor pan above the boat sides (dropped a couple pounds, gave me access to weld the topsides of the box tube to the boatsides, and no void space to gather mud and rust). Are you going to caulk the gap between the 2x6 and the boat side? I think that would make the variance in gap blend away, and also prevent mud and water from getting in there.
Not bad, sounds like a good way to do it. No I won't be doing that, I think once these get painted, most likely with monstaliner. I won't even notice the gap.
🧐 10.4 🤠... years of piling up stuff, month and a half to use up several years worth of 20 minuet side job scraps. 3 Ton engine 😵💫 recycled leftovers... = $0 spent?
Bro, CAD model and patent this... There are no companies that make a tie-in with the rocker armor and unibody like this. Absolutely brilliant to use countersunk hardware vs. button head or hex head. I think Clayton is the only company that does a full tie-in with belly armor for the front 3-link and rear 4-link.
Once this Jeep is done I hope to start doing that 🤞🏽
I’m a Toyota guy but I have a soft spot for XJ’s keep up the good work man!
I’m an xj guy… but have a soft spot for yotas😅 next project should be a yota crawler im thinking.
Love the fact you made this choice and gave me some pointers and point of view which is awesome! Def use this to get some insight with my 01 xj I did ruff stuff shackle relocation on my rear after frame repairs and shock/ tank strap hanger bars swapped out with 2x2s and just today did my 2x6 rockers and plan go do the rear leaf hangers too saw your other videos and yikes Swiss cheese haha! I do have boat sides in mind and came across this video few days before and I love your results. Flawless and keep on Jeepin!
Glad you enjoyed the video, sounds like you have a sweet rig coming together yourself! I think boatsides are the way to go when it comes to 2x6 sliders on the Cherokees, give em a shot!
Man can’t get over how good the wheels look good on that thing.
Best part of the build!
you could help the bend by giving it a bit of a relief with the cut off wheel, if your super concerned about strength in that area, just weld it back up once your done/satisfied with it. Great work on the XJ, its looking better each week!
That is a great idea. Honestly I should have done that and I would have gotten a straighter bend…once these get banged up I’ll make the next set like that. Thank you!
Top notch video. Keep it up
Thank you! 🤌🏽🤘🏽
Those boat sides look sick man! Been wanting to do that ever since I did the rockers and just don’t want to take the time to do it 😅
I love boatsides on Cherokees, I would recommend them to anyone, but yes the time to do them was just stupid long…would I do again though? Probably haha
I did all of the supports for mine already. The thing is they are not uniform, they are just wherever i put them. I think i could just get some sheet metal, hang it where i want it, and drill through the sheet and the supports at the same time. Then just tap the supports, or possibly drill and hole and weld a nut inside. I do like the counter sunk bolts though to reduce the possibility of catching a bolt head on something.
I made my supports from the left over 2x6 that i used for the sliders. I think they turned out really well. I made the frame stiffeners and rock sliders into one video.
That sounds like it would be easier, drilling into the sheet and then the support and then tapping it. Deff takes half the measurements I did out of the equation. I do think the countersunk bolts are a great idea, I thought of using hex bolt head protectors, I'll use those if these end up not working out.
I'll have to check out that video man!
@@backcountrybeagles that would be great if you take a look and let me know what you think i should do. 😀
If my XJ gets promoted to full time crawler status, I may go boat-side, but....I don't think I'm ready to go there yet. IDK, maybe.
Glad to have a new video though. The boat-sides look awesome!
Patch design idea.... "XJ Stuff & What-Not" lol
Full time crawler or rock lander, needs boatsides😂 …might just have to take that patch idea😅😉
I really like this!
Now, added to my list of stuff to build...😂
If anything is on the list it should be boatsides!
I love it! I really like the bolt on style. Bolt on is such a good idea. Have you thought about welding any ribs on the inside of the sheet metal to help stiffen it? Maybe it's unnecessary with the bends and stuff. I would absolutely do bolt on if I did boat sides, but I still have my rockers I think a person needs to cut the rockers out and do the 2x6 sliders to do boat sides. I like my rockers lol I've kept them undamaged so far. I'm running a set of jcr sliders then previously I had some homemade ones.
I like my rear leafs I think you should keep leafs I know you mentioned maybe down the road doing coilovers in the rear. I'm running one of those shackles relocating kits that drops it down and it has a bunch of different holes for shackle angle adjustment. You can also get no lift kits with multiple holes. But maybe this would help your shackle angle?
I'm running fox 2.5" remote reservoir shocks in the rear 10 inch travel and I'm kind of using the stock mounting locations sort of. I didn't want to lose cargo area or make holes etc.. I reworked the mounts on the body to accept a 1.5x1/2" race shock end. I believe it's 1.5"x1/2" if I remember correctly 1.5" wide for a 1/2" bolt. "Race" shocks have the wider ends than standard shocks and you can buy bolt on kits to change to a standard shock end but many kits are not for a race shock so they are too small i originally bought some adapter kits. Anyways it took a little welding and some thinking to make my top mounts they are almost in the same location I did utilize the bolt holes to help hold my adapters. Then down on the axle I'm running the shocks inboard more than stock I believe I pushed each one in 1 inch the main thing with that was to clear my leafs and bump stops it had to be done. Then the bottom shock mounts do hang below the axle it's the only way to fit a 10 inch shock without cutting floor it's not crazy far below the axle I think it's close to how far they hang down stock. Then for the reservoirs I got some billet clamps meant to hold them to tube and I put 2 short lengths of tube under there and mounted them in a way that wasn't super difficult to get to the adjusters because I got the adjustable shocks.
Edit: I think I used the Barnes xj rear shock mounts on the axle but I didn't use the hardware with it that's meant for a standard shock. I had to utilize spacers and build out so that style mount helped make it all work. my rear axle is pushed back slightly but not much I still have the stock gas tank location and a rear Dana 60 so you can imagine that I can't go too far rearwards so my axle is close to where yours is I'm sure.
If you want more than a 10 inch shock in the rear you'll need to go into the floor and stuff.
I love my welded on boatsides on the Red Chero but so many benefits to having bolt on boatsides. The Red Chero boatsides are ribbed on the inside so I did think about it, but then again they don't have supports, the whole boatside/ribs are the supports. I thought about at least doing it to the ends, where the bends are but I decided I'll start wheeling it, if it bends then the next ones I make will have ribs/more supports. As of right now I think I'm good...subconsciously I think I just don't want to be working on boatsides anymore lol.
Yeah we'll see, I will probably keep the leafs, rather spend that coilover money on...an engine swap?...Well see. As for the leafs/shackle angle, I'm going to be ordering some revolver shackles here soon, they might just work with my current leaf set up I'm hoping. These Iron Rock 5.5" leafs are longer than stock so they make things interesting to set up.
Very interesting that you've got 10" shocks in the rear without cutting the floor. I've been contemplating going 10 or 12s. I think I need to set up the brakes and all that first though...if you've got some photos of that rear shock setup lying around shoot them over to my email! thebackcountybeagles@gmail.com
@@backcountrybeagles I'm running Rubicon Express 5.5 leafs they are longer than stock. I actually really like the Rubicon Express leafs this is my 2nd set I've used more expensive leafs like metal cloak deaver and I've used rough country and some other miscellaneous but for a xj Rubicon Express 5.5 leafs have been my favorite if you have to look at different leafs I would highly suggest the Rubicon Express.
I'll try to get some pictures sent over to you of the shocks. Essentially the mods on the body can just be bolt on if you make something like this bar pin eliminator linked below. I actually purchased this exact kit then learned about different size shocks and race shocks then I cut these in half and bolted them loosely to the shock and then bolted them in the car and went from there. I also tried to keep everything on the body as low profile as possible to get as much length as possible. I'm also running the Rubicon 5.5 leafs with an adjustable shackle but my shackle is adjusted all the way short then I have the shackle relocation drop kit which adds some lift. Also that drop kit adds pinion angle. I really like the drop kit but it's important to reinforce the stock leaf springs boxes/mounts so they don't rip off. Anyways I'll try to get some pictures over to you soon.
I'm curious what your thinking on an engine swap I've had some ideas. I'm running a golen stroker. Cooling would be my main concern with a swap. I have reasons for not swapping mine I enjoy my setup a lot I love the aw4 too.
www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/bar-pin-eliminator-shock-relocation-brackets-rear.html
Looks like you’re back and rejuvenated.
Yes sir, let’s get this Jeep done!
A ton of work, but a great job. Now I’m interested in some for mine haha
So much work…now onto some “easier” tasks😅
Good old Grand Mesa- miss the view!
Never gets old!
I did boatsides on mine a couple months ago. I welded mine in 100% and cut out the floor pan above the boat sides (dropped a couple pounds, gave me access to weld the topsides of the box tube to the boatsides, and no void space to gather mud and rust). Are you going to caulk the gap between the 2x6 and the boat side? I think that would make the variance in gap blend away, and also prevent mud and water from getting in there.
Not bad, sounds like a good way to do it. No I won't be doing that, I think once these get painted, most likely with monstaliner. I won't even notice the gap.
🧐 10.4 🤠... years of piling up stuff, month and a half to use up several years worth of 20 minuet side job scraps. 3 Ton engine 😵💫 recycled leftovers... = $0 spent?