Thank you so much for making this task look so easy. I took my 2023 gr86 on track today for just 3 laps. On lap 2 i felt a little brake fade. So i will be changing my pads and fluids as soon as possible
I replaced my OEM disc brakes for a slotted and drilled and put back the clips again the ones you said aren’t necessary But the new rotors and brake pads are squeaker and noisy Then I remove the clips out.
I'm thinking the brake pads with the clips as you call them are probably squeelers. What they do is scrape against the rotor when the brake pad gets dangerously thin to let you know you need to replace your brakes.
Awesome and very helpful. I also have 22 GR86, I got hawk pads which may be a bit loud but ill change them for CSG at the end of this season. Do I need to change fluid if I follow your steps?
@@autosenses2960 No, no need to change fluid with pads, but if tracking, I'd replace fluid once a year (more or less depending on how much tracking) with some high temp fluid.
Thanks for the very helpful video. Stopping power when on a track would obviously be much better than OEM pads, but what about on the street? When the brakes are cold or at a medium temperature, what % do you think they have over OEM. What about longevity? These CSG Spec CP are $720 to cover all 4 wheels, I’m just trying to determine if they are worth the 2 to nearly 4x cost of pads from EBC or Ferodo, when I am only driving 90% spirited street, and maybe 10% autocross. I’m guessing that the short answer is no.
CSG CP pads will probably last you the lifetime of the vehicle if you drive only one track day per year AND they'll stop without fade. They work great when cold. Only the slightest noise on rare occasion. They stop much, much better than OEM when you're in a canyon or doing highway pulls. I have found they never fade, as long as you have upgraded brake fluid as well.
They are a really good street/track pad. No noise at all, and zero fade on track. Not hard on the rotors unless you’re into the ABS too much, but that’s true of any pad.
@@RevMatchReviews Thank you! So the goal is to avoid ABS braking as much as possible. Mainly threshold braking? I think that was mistake i made on previous FWD, I was too hard on brakes/engaging ABS often causing pulsation during hard braking
Yes - maximum braking is achieved right before ABS kicks in. I'm still feeling out the car, but the goal is to feel the ABS kick in and then back off so that you're pedal pressure is right below ABS engagement.
If you're just changing the pads, you don't need to bleed to brakes. However, after a couple of years, it's a definitely a good idea. Brake fluid attracts water and in time will cause air bubbles. I track my car, so I bleed a couple times per season.
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Thank you so much for making this task look so easy. I took my 2023 gr86 on track today for just 3 laps. On lap 2 i felt a little brake fade. So i will be changing my pads and fluids as soon as possible
Glad it helped!
I replaced my OEM disc brakes for a slotted and drilled and put back the clips again the ones you said aren’t necessary
But the new rotors and brake pads are squeaker and noisy
Then I remove the clips out.
Nice video, thanks!
Dont forget to bed the new brake pads after mounting them - each manufacturer has a recommended bedding procedure :)
good video! I plan to upgrade the brake pads on my 86 soon.
I'm thinking the brake pads with the clips as you call them are probably squeelers. What they do is scrape against the rotor when the brake pad gets dangerously thin to let you know you need to replace your brakes.
Nice! Where is a good place to get these pads?
Hi, thanks for your video. Do you put grease behind your pad and caliper contact after changing pad? Or BRZ does not need to add grease for brake pad?
I don't use grease
Thank you 🙏🏽
Awesome and very helpful. I also have 22 GR86, I got hawk pads which may be a bit loud but ill change them for CSG at the end of this season. Do I need to change fluid if I follow your steps?
If you’re tracking your car you should upgrade to a race fluid such as Endless, Castrol SRF, or Motul
@@RevMatchReviews Yes, once I do have fluid in it, do I need to change the fluid if I just change the pads?
@@autosenses2960 No, no need to change fluid with pads, but if tracking, I'd replace fluid once a year (more or less depending on how much tracking) with some high temp fluid.
Thanks for the very helpful video. Stopping power when on a track would obviously be much better than OEM pads, but what about on the street? When the brakes are cold or at a medium temperature, what % do you think they have over OEM. What about longevity? These CSG Spec CP are $720 to cover all 4 wheels, I’m just trying to determine if they are worth the 2 to nearly 4x cost of pads from EBC or Ferodo, when I am only driving 90% spirited street, and maybe 10% autocross. I’m guessing that the short answer is no.
CSG CP pads will probably last you the lifetime of the vehicle if you drive only one track day per year AND they'll stop without fade. They work great when cold. Only the slightest noise on rare occasion. They stop much, much better than OEM when you're in a canyon or doing highway pulls. I have found they never fade, as long as you have upgraded brake fluid as well.
don't we need to use any anti-seize or grease? just curious how it went considering you didn't use any
It’s not needed for a track compound. I’ve had no issues.
I wonder if the oem pad shims will fit. They supposed to help to dissapate heat, not insanely much. But anything will help
If you’re running a track compound they are specifically designed to handle higher temperatures
@@RevMatchReviews I am. Running DS1.11, they still boil my rf650. Tragic, probably gonna go bbk
No. Not sure what the change frequency for race fluid is but the act of changing pads does not require new fluid.
I just installed Hawk HPS on my 22 GR86, how do you like the CSG CP's?
They are a really good street/track pad. No noise at all, and zero fade on track. Not hard on the rotors unless you’re into the ABS too much, but that’s true of any pad.
@@RevMatchReviews Thank you! So the goal is to avoid ABS braking as much as possible. Mainly threshold braking? I think that was mistake i made on previous FWD, I was too hard on brakes/engaging ABS often causing pulsation during hard braking
Yes - maximum braking is achieved right before ABS kicks in. I'm still feeling out the car, but the goal is to feel the ABS kick in and then back off so that you're pedal pressure is right below ABS engagement.
Good job!
Are the brake pads compatible with the Gen 1?
Yes
No bleeding?
If you're just changing the pads, you don't need to bleed to brakes. However, after a couple of years, it's a definitely a good idea. Brake fluid attracts water and in time will cause air bubbles.
I track my car, so I bleed a couple times per season.