The worst week in my life was a Muncie 4 spd with Lakewood one piece bell housing in a 67 Stingray. The younger brother to my high school friend who had just passed a month ago in Germany. The crossmember is fiberglass in, trans had to over top as far back, un-bolt pressure plate and push the trans forward, bell housing, disc, pressure plate all comes out at once. It took three people to remove. It all comes at once! Never again!!! DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Oh yeah the infamous lost washer, I’d forgotten about that. Or maybe that’s why the starter was struggling so much to turn it over? Just kidding let’s hope not. 🥴
Thanks for the tips Tony. I tried shifting it in and out of gear as well as turning the output shaft. Didn't seem to help me. I'll try the dab of grease next time though. I appreciate you watching and offering up help.
Yep that is true. It must be worth it though, as I keep going back for more punishment. Hopefully I get the reward of actually driving the car someday. Thanks!
When I installed a Chev. 283 in my 49 Willys Stationwagon got in the motor mounts and transcontinental and by a miracle the clutch bellcrank lined up perfect. Cut and twisted bellcrank and rewelded and had a daily multi state daily driver for 7 years....
A battery charger doesn't put out the amps a battery will. A good starter will draw 100-200 amps so if you battery charger can't output that it'll turn slow.
Thanks guys. I was thinking I had used the battery charger to turn the engine over in the past, but I guess I was just spinning the starter only. It works for that...
The clutch ball plate that bolts to block is from a 70-72 Chevy pickup. I used one to relocate my cross shaft on a 65nova SS years ago. 👍 Just drilled a hole and put it where it needed to be. Thanks for sharing
on my 4spd 57 with the factory chevy bell housing , i used a old front shaft from another trans to line up the clutch plate and i only snug the pressure plate bolts up a little so the trans could move the clutch plate if needed then tighten the pressure plate after you get all the trans bolts in. a little grease on the tip of the trans shaft helps too. your chassis and engine & trans looks great.
Good video Brad, I have never messed with four-speed transmissions, always been an automatic guy. But I know four speeds are worth the reward when you are having fun driving. Keep it up, you will get there. We all have our struggles, just most of them don’t put them on video, lol.
Some days everything goes smoothly and other days not so much doing the same thing. I used a metal scatter shield and I Thought my engine was in the stock location but not exactly sure. I did make a plate and used spacers between it and the block then bolted the pivot ball to it.
On the clutch bar on the tranny, what I'm gonna do on my 55 is cutting out 3/4 inches and reweld it together. That will save you some money 💵💰 💵💰 Great video!! Have a great day 😊😊😊
Good idea Johnny. That should work for you, but I will not have the mounting holes in the new bellhousing, so had to come up with a plan B. Thanks for watching!
When I was in HS in Rapid, I had a 59 Impala 2 Dr Hardtop. When I switched from a Powerglide to a manual, i had to weld a bracket on the frame for the bell crank, bu tthere was a threaded hole for the ball in the block.
Try using long bolts called "All lthreads" that are just threads. You can get them from the hardware store. It saved my butt installing a 5 speed in my 96 Ford pickup. I was on the concrete floor for 6 hours trying to ram it in at zero degrees in my garage before using them. I live in Helena. After installing the bolts it went in in 15 minutes! Also your starter may not be bad. A charger may have 12 volts but it may not have near the amperage of a fully charged battery. Amps X Volts = Watts. More Watts equal more cranking power. Try these two methods. They may work for you. I really like your channel. You show screw-up's as well as success story's. Good Luck.
Fighting the last 3/4" on trying to get a 4 speed in a '55 is pure Americana! It sucks for sure and seems we've all been there but so glad you got it. Crazy thing is my 2020 Silverado is in the shop too for the same damn DEF issue!! Gotta love it and hang in there Brad - if it was easy everyone would be doing it.
Thanks Dave. Dang thing never fought me this hard before. Glad I'm not the only one though. I hope they can get your truck fixed faster than mine. Literally took seven weeks to get it fixed, well it only took like one afternoon to actually fix it, but seven weeks of waiting on appointments and parts. Supper frustrating. Luckily I still have my Ford work truck or I don't know what I would have done.
Sound advice for sure! Thanks for that man. It sounds like I may owe you some stickers for buying Moose's book? Send me your address at montanagarage55@gmail.com and I'll send some your way! Maybe I already did? I appreciate you watching and following along. 👊
Sorry to see you having so much trouble. I seem to have those problems myself when working alone. Always running for the right parts. I blame alot of that on part stores. Thanks for the update 👍
Same exact scenario doing my clutch job on my 55 back in October on my back it sucked first clutch change in 45 years,HA! Was brutal on my back never again. Same thing trans wouldnt go in the last 3/4 inch or so. Loosened all the pressure plate bolts and used two 6 inch homemade guide bolts in the bellhousing for the 4 speed to slide into the clutch disc and pilot bushing went right in. Try two guide bolts when you do it next time made from some long bolts.I made a TH-cam video of it after the fact check it out I cursed my ____ off, I feel your pain. I think the plastic tool is too small in length and causing the problem I used the same one couldnt find my old wooden one thats like 10 inches long. Car is coming along Keep up the good work !
Thanks for the tips. I have never had this much trouble with this tranny. Just didn't want to cooperate that day I guess. I was actually getting ready to go get some long bolts for guides and it finally went in. I'll have them handy next time and hopefully it'll help. Thanks for watching.
Nice to see progress again this week even with all the troubles you are closer than last week! It's going to be worth it in the end when cruising around town!
I just did the same dance two days ago with my 57. A Muncie transmission on a Centerforce Clutch. I think it was the roller bushing in the crank. I also worked up a sweat.
I had that tranny, and a different one, in and out of there several times, always from under the car, and never struggled like that! I hope it goes easier next time around. Thanks for watching!
I reused the pressure plate bolts several times on my GTO, never had any problem at all. The problem I had was when I had the wrong length throwout bearing. I finally figured it out, but not before I struggled for hours. Of course, it was my first stick shift car, and I didn't have anyone to talk me through it. I know you'll have better luck than I did, I look forward to seeing you out there putting it through the paces.
feel you man, it took so many hours of work to get my 67 4 speed trans to hook up to my 74 350. took hours of angles and didn't understand as I did it like 6 times to different motors and it was that it as 4mms out but putting it on in the snow took 30 mins XD
I was peeping that clutch linkage hard. Lol. Same issue with the engine side bracket I bought. Ordered another and if it's got the right size ball I'll let ya know. Also thanks for demonstrating why I should never pull the trans... 🤐
I have never found a charger that would even crank a starter over without a battery hooked to it. Like many I have an old input shaft to line disc up. I think mine was an old m22 muncie. I was "lucky" on tranny line ups. My brother would fight and cuss for hours...
Thanks guys. I thought i had turned my engine over with that battery charger before, but now I remember I was just testing a starter. It did spin the starter no problem, but I guess it doesn't have the amps to spin the engine. I have had this yranny in and out several times, and never had to struggle like this before. Hopefully it goes better next time...
Reminds me of working on the 4-speed in my old Chevelle. Did that more times then I care to remember. Some of the damage was self-inflicted because I was in a hurry. Look forward to seeing more on the '55. You got this. The 'far-away' view is good for something but would have been interesting to see the start issues closer. Be safe and stay well.
Give that 🐈 a wrench, he wants to help, I've never had a problem reusing pressure plate or flex plate bolts, but yea I torque them down a couple of foot pounds more, thanks for sharing Brother Brad Aloha and Hang Loose
Moose is being a typical shop supervisor by just looking and not lending a hand... err... paw. Just like some people we've all met. You were only "this close" to throwing a wrench? You will never be good at reality TV then. ;) Keep at the project. The struggle is still real but one step forward that isn't on a land mine is progress.
Here's a tip. Take some longer bolts and cut the heads off then round them and cut a slot in the end. Screw them in to the upper transmission holes. Use them a guilds and it will align the transmission. Then use a screw driver and put out the alignment screws and replace them with the right bolts.
Even when using the plastic alignment tool, the clutch Dick almost ALWAYS drops slightly so things don’t align. Had my trans in and out many times and always had to push up on alignment tool before tightening pressure plate. Next time, look through bellhousing before tightening up. Should see that it’s probably not lined up
Thanks for the tip and for watching Mike. I just installed the tranny again (video soon) and it wasn't quit as bad this time, but still a struggle. I'll peek through the bellhousing next time like you suggest.
Here's a tip buy 4 long bolts (4 inch) Cut off the heads cut a slot into each bolt and hand screw them into the bell hsgn. They will act as alignment dowels and they can be screwed in or out using a screw driver.
Thanks for the tip. I was just about to try this when I finally got it to go in. I am just getting ready to take the tranny back out to change bellhousings, so I'll try this for sure this time if there is any struggle at all. I appreciate you watching and trying to help.
Next time you pull that tranny, take a couple long bolts and cut the heads off. The bolts will help you to align the tranny when you do the final install after the bell housing or scattershield. Simple trick, but helps a TON!
Thanks Daniel. I was just getting ready to go grab some long bolts to do that with when it finally went in. I just never had this much trouble in the past. I will definitely have some on hand for the next battle though...
Lol… headlights. Flywheel bolts are longer usually than the flex plate bolts and pressure plate bolts are up to you. I do reuse unless a racing kit, then I use new. Extensions reduce torque applied pressure relative to the length of the extension. Longer is more reduction… I used to know the amounts per length. Next time use a battery along with the charger. You need amps and volts! South west Speed. Ask for Toby or AJ. Tell them Brant sent you! Great driveshaft and great price! Good folks to deal with. Aloha
I've never replaced the pressure plate bolts. Maybe I should have but I ran a 440 4speed Mopar for years with no problems. Heck I never heard you were not supposed to reuse them. A battery will put out 500 to 800 amps and spin the starter which will probably draw 300 or so. Even a big charger won't put out enough.
Thanks Walter. That's what I am hearing about the battery charger. Seems like I should have been smart enough to know that... Guess I know now! I appreciate you watching and offering advice.
I am building my 55 and sorry but I have to laugh when you say nothing goes right or it take an hour to do something that should take 5 minutes and it's always a struggle! Man o man I feel your pain!!!
Dump the high torque starter and get a starter for a 409 Chevy engine. It is a bolt in swap and a better starter.You need a bell crank brace to bolt up to the two holes in the bell housing.
Some times when aggravation leads to discomfort, its better to walk away and do some thing else , and then return to the problem and it usually becomes easy. I didnt notice , have you ran your new brake and fuel lines on the frame yet? Now is a good time if you havent while the body is off. Anyway , its looking great.
I just came in from installing the Muncie 4spd back in my '36 Chevy coupe. It's got a 283 with a '57 bell housing and I went through the same thing. The alignment tool slid in and out nice but, we had to fight the trans. Luckily it was on my hoist and their was two of us. And yes, I'll buy your '55 post and park it next to my '55 post I've had since '76. I came here because My clutch for looks like it's too far through it's stroke to work correctly but your's looks the same.
Yeah for some reason these things can be a bugger to get in. I think I installed the trans once more after this video to change the bellhousing. Unfortunately, I did have something wrong with the clutch fork/throwout bearing, as it made all kinds or racket once the car was running and the clutch was depressed. I think I had the throwout bearing on the fork wrong, but I haven't gone back to check the footage. So, I did have to take the trans out of the car once it was all together, obviously this time from underneath. Somehow when I put the trans back in that time, it actually went in easy for a change. Hopefully your won't need done three times... Thanks for watching.
@@MontanaGarage Only minutes ago, I found out "55 - '57 Chevies used LONG throw out bearings. I'm pulling my trans in a few minutes because it wasn't fun enough only doing it once!
@@lylejohnston4125 Bummer. Welcome to the "do it at least twice mafia", I am a long time member... My '57 has a long throwout bearing, and I "think" my '55 had a long one when I disassembled it years ago, so I was concerned about the shorter one working. I think I had a spare long one and mocked it up with that, and there was no way it was going to work. I think maybe since I used an aftermarket clutch fork, it changed the angle requiring the shorter bearing.
Yeah brad got to be careful now summit jegs and others call a lot of LS stuff Small block on a lot of parts now !! I noticed that the fist time u pulled the alinement tool out it had to pull hard on it to pull out ! Id defiantly dial indicate the new bell-housing make sure it’s all lined up Centrically get work man !!!
Thanks for the tip Jessie. I though maybe I could just adjust the clutch linkage to make up for it, but I'll probably grab a longer one when I pull the tranny back out.
@@MontanaGarage with that open bottom bell housing, loosen the clutch bolts, so the disc can move, you'll be able to get the transmission into the pilot bushing easyer, 72 and done a few!
Your Lakewood Scatter Shield should have mounting bracket on the side, mine does. Of course, this video is from 1 year ago. Sorry. As you probably found out, long or short clutch release bearing is crucial, per the arm you are using to actuate the clutch. Again, a year too late. ;) I'm 73 and starting over on my 56. I feel your pain!! ;)
I think I originally ordered one that did not have any brackets on it, but then changed to the actual trifive style with the brackets after the first one was on backorder forever. I need to rewards ghis video to see if I installed the throw out bearing wrong, because it gave me issues once I was able to drive the car. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Scott. Yeah the underside is all ready to go. Not sure if links work in the comments, but check this video out to see how that went. th-cam.com/video/E5I-7Ai8-gk/w-d-xo.html I pretty much need some warmish weather to paint the firewall, then I'll be ready to put the body back on the frame.
I did and it id pretty close. I will double check that when I get the car more together and at ride height, and I can easily space the crossmember up or down a touch if needed. Thanks for the tip!
I hope you get to go on the Raceweek. I'm planning on meeting up with you. You could stay here in my spare bedroom. Would save you some cash for a hotel. I'll even feed ya with a home cooked meal. I'm about 15 minutes from Tulsa drag strip. Serious offer.
Wow, I appreciate the offer and I hope I get to take you up on that man. I'd probably want to stick around for too long picking your brain about too much stuff though! Whether Race Week, or sometime in the future, I'd love to come by and hang out for a bit so hopefully we can make it happen someday. I gotta get caught up on some of your vids. Good luck finishing up the hardtop!
@@MontanaGarage I think it'd be cool. If your bringing your boy or your wife, I got room. I got a welder and tools if you need fixing. Also you can leave a truck/trailer here
@@haffrods7055 That is awesome man. Again, much appreciated. My son is planning on going so it should be a fun trip. I hope it happens, but I better get moving or wait list or not my car isn't gonna be done.
That is what I am hearing. I could have swore I turned tis thing over with a different starter in the just the charger in the past, but I think I was just testing a bare starter. Oh well. I already sent it back so gotta get something else regardless. I appreciate the info though. Seems like I shoulda been smart enough to know that... haha
Dang-it son, I don’t know what you done did do, but, I’m proud of you……The angle of the dangle of your tail shaft looks more in-line with the rear diff-yoke. If all you did was “dangle your dingle”……then please don’t tell me!!! This old man knew you could do It. I’m not a mean old man, but I kind of enjoyed watching you struggle!!! LOL 👁👁 😤 🤕 😁
Years ago the chevy parts man sold me the wrong throw out bearing that was too long ,when installed the clutch pressure plate was pushed in all the time .
There were two throw out bearings available long and short depending on style of pressure plate being used. Should always check the replacement against original before installation with any part. Saves from using magic words.
Bummer. I was hoping with the shorter one I'd just have to adjust the clutch linkage to make it work? Not sure. Maybe I'll track down the longer one when I pull the tranny again.
If you use that plastic alignment tool 9 out of 10 times it'll never be right the best thing is to get a old axle that matches your spleens that's made out of metal put a handle on it with weld and if you use that you'll never have a problem with the transmission sliding right in little bit of grease on the pilot bearing and it goes in 10 out of 10 times something about that plastic let's just don't play with the weight of everything to make it not align and you'll struggle every time just like you did nice build got some nice tri fives there
Thanks for the tip. I've hard that before. I do need to pull this tranny again soon. Maybe I can come up with a metal input shaft soon so I can find out if it does indeed help. I appreciate you watching!
Thanks Carmelo. I just hadn't needed to do that in the past when installing this trans. I was just getting ready to go buy some longer bolts to do this with when it finally went in. Next time I'll have some for sure. Thanks for the membership as well. Much appreciated!
Why did you put side mounts and a crossmember in the frame? I have run big blocks in tri fives with stock mounts for ever ! I am building a 55 gasser with a 302 and crossram with a T 10 . Im using stock mounts again . I don't understand the whole side mount thing .
Was saying the same thing to myself. Never had any problems with stock setup Pedestal mounting up front and bell housing side mounting in rear. 4 speed hung on bell housing no need for trans mount. People tend to make more problems trying to change something that works.
Glad they work for you guys. In the past mine would tear up the rear mounts, causing the engine to sag, which would allow the dizzy to hit the firewall when the engine torqued. I didn't want to fight with that anymore, so I made a change.
@@MontanaGarage i just ask because all the guys on these videos are changing to side mounts. I always put new mounts in with every motor change, never had any issues ,,,, never
check out pd electric on ebay good prices on starters&alt. also check out poor mans power steering replaces bushing in the idler arm with a bearing works good .keep up the good work!!
Thanks for all the tips Harold. I tried most of that. In my case, I think it was just the pilot bushing stopping me. I'll most likely be installing the tranny again soon, so I am prepared for another fight!
Hey Bill I don't know anything about comments getting deleted. I certainly haven't deleted any of your comments man. I appreciate you always watching and commenting. If some of your comments aren't showing up or getting deletedI am not sure why.
@@MontanaGarage always find your videos entertaining. A lot of problems are caused by wrong parts. Not like back in the day when parts person knew what he was selling not just a number in the book chevy had 2 styles of clutch pressure plates. 3 finger "long" style and multiple finger borg&beck diaphragm style. Also have to be careful with disc spline count.
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The worst week in my life was a Muncie 4 spd with Lakewood one piece bell housing in a 67 Stingray. The younger brother to my high school friend who had just passed a month ago in Germany.
The crossmember is fiberglass in, trans had to over top as far back, un-bolt pressure plate and push the trans forward, bell housing, disc, pressure plate all comes out at once. It took three people to remove. It all comes at once! Never again!!!
DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
That doesn't sound like much fun. Mine should be easy, but it tends to fight me anyhow. Thanks for watching.
That sure was a struggle!! Maybe it was hitting against that lost washer in the engine? Lol!! Cheers!!
Thats funny!!
Haha, probably was Paul. That is funny. Thanks for always following along friend.
Oh yeah the infamous lost washer, I’d forgotten about that. Or maybe that’s why the starter was struggling so much to turn it over? Just kidding let’s hope not. 🥴
I put the trans in gear with a driveshaft yoke. Rock it and work the yoke. A dab of grease on the edge of the input shaft will also help
Thanks for the tips Tony. I tried shifting it in and out of gear as well as turning the output shaft. Didn't seem to help me. I'll try the dab of grease next time though. I appreciate you watching and offering up help.
Wow that was though!!!
Yep it sure was. Thanks for watching!
Our fun hobby easy is and sometimes hard is easy all in the fun! ;)
Yep that is true. It must be worth it though, as I keep going back for more punishment. Hopefully I get the reward of actually driving the car someday. Thanks!
Nice way to tackle the challenges of 4speed, moving 3/4 forward.
Thanks for watching!
When I installed a Chev. 283 in my 49 Willys Stationwagon got in the motor mounts and transcontinental and by a miracle the clutch bellcrank lined up perfect. Cut and twisted bellcrank and rewelded and had a daily multi state daily driver for 7 years....
Nice!
small things can be a big struggle
At least for me they can. Hopefully it goes a little better next time! Thanks for watching!
Lot of fun watching you put your car together and your attitude is so great
Thanks Michael. I try and keep a good attitude, but this thing had been trying my patience for sure. I'll keep on trying tough.
Keep on keeping on lol
A battery charger doesn't put out the amps a battery will. A good starter will draw 100-200 amps so if you battery charger can't output that it'll turn slow.
Yup What Gary said
@@dnmtorp you beat me too it
Thanks guys. I was thinking I had used the battery charger to turn the engine over in the past, but I guess I was just spinning the starter only. It works for that...
The clutch ball plate that bolts to block is from a 70-72 Chevy pickup. I used one to relocate my cross shaft on a 65nova SS years ago. 👍 Just drilled a hole and put it where it needed to be. Thanks for sharing
I welded my ball to bracket so it didn't loosen up 👍
Thanks for the info. I figured there had to be one made for something, just couldn't find one. I appreciate you watching and offering up the advice.
@@MontanaGarage don't try to use too long bolts, mite break chunk off block.👍 You got this😁
It's always easier and more fun to pull a trans from underneath. Especially in the dirt.
Yeah, I think you are right. haha Thanks!
on my 4spd 57 with the factory chevy bell housing , i used a old front shaft from another trans to line up the clutch plate and i only snug the pressure plate bolts up a little
so the trans could move the clutch plate if needed then tighten the pressure plate after you get all the trans bolts in. a little grease on the tip of the trans shaft helps too.
your chassis and engine & trans looks great.
Thanks man I appreciate the tips. I'll try that next time.
Good video Brad, I have never messed with four-speed transmissions, always been an automatic guy. But I know four speeds are worth the reward when you are having fun driving. Keep it up, you will get there. We all have our struggles, just most of them don’t put them on video, lol.
Thanks Dan. I wouldn't have nay footage to show if I didn't include struggling! haha I appreciate you watching!
Everything looks good Brad. I really like the looks of the frame and motor. Keep jamming on it and you will soon be driving it. ✌️😎👍
Thanks Kevin. I hope you are right...
Some days everything goes smoothly and other days not so much doing the same thing. I used a metal scatter shield and I Thought my engine was in the stock location but not exactly sure. I did make a plate and used spacers between it and the block then bolted the pivot ball to it.
Thanks Gorni. That is what I did as well! I appreciate you watching and helping friend!
ENJOYED WATCHING YOU HAVE FUN !!! Thanks !!
It may not have looked like it, but it was fun I guess. I appreciate the kind words!
On the clutch bar on the tranny, what I'm gonna do on my 55 is cutting out 3/4 inches and reweld it together. That will save you some money 💵💰 💵💰 Great video!! Have a great day 😊😊😊
Good idea Johnny. That should work for you, but I will not have the mounting holes in the new bellhousing, so had to come up with a plan B. Thanks for watching!
Well, that transmission was giving you fits. But you got it in there. Hay thanks for sharing, have a great weekend 👋
Thanks man, you too!
When I was in HS in Rapid, I had a 59 Impala 2 Dr Hardtop. When I switched from a Powerglide to a manual, i had to weld a bracket on the frame for the bell crank, bu tthere was a threaded hole for the ball in the block.
Yep, there is a threaded hole in the block, but it doesn't line up with the ball on the frame. Thanks for watching!
Try using long bolts called "All lthreads" that are just threads. You can get them from the hardware store. It saved my butt installing a 5 speed in my 96 Ford pickup. I was on the concrete floor for 6 hours trying to ram it in at zero degrees in my garage before using them. I live in Helena. After installing the bolts it went in in 15 minutes! Also your starter may not be bad. A charger may have 12 volts but it may not have near the amperage of a fully charged battery. Amps X Volts = Watts. More Watts equal more cranking power. Try these two methods. They may work for you. I really like your channel. You show screw-up's as well as success story's. Good Luck.
Thanks for the tips and the kind words. I'll try the all thread trick next time for sure. I love Helena, cool town. I appreciate you watching. 👊
Fighting the last 3/4" on trying to get a 4 speed in a '55 is pure Americana! It sucks for sure and seems we've all been there but so glad you got it. Crazy thing is my 2020 Silverado is in the shop too for the same damn DEF issue!! Gotta love it and hang in there Brad - if it was easy everyone would be doing it.
Thanks Dave. Dang thing never fought me this hard before. Glad I'm not the only one though. I hope they can get your truck fixed faster than mine. Literally took seven weeks to get it fixed, well it only took like one afternoon to actually fix it, but seven weeks of waiting on appointments and parts. Supper frustrating. Luckily I still have my Ford work truck or I don't know what I would have done.
Well bud seeing you having fun again lol. But progress is progressing I think, keep it going Man
Thanks Lonnie!
"It doesn't matter how good you are at new things" said Moose the cat, "keep trying and you will get better!" 😁
Sound advice for sure! Thanks for that man. It sounds like I may owe you some stickers for buying Moose's book? Send me your address at montanagarage55@gmail.com and I'll send some your way! Maybe I already did? I appreciate you watching and following along. 👊
Sorry to see you having so much trouble. I seem to have those problems myself when working alone. Always running for the right parts. I blame alot of that on part stores. Thanks for the update 👍
Thanks Tim. I usually have to blame myself... I appreciate you watching!
Same exact scenario doing my clutch job on my 55 back in October on my back it sucked first clutch change in 45 years,HA! Was brutal on my back never again. Same thing trans wouldnt go in the last 3/4 inch or so. Loosened all the pressure plate bolts and used two 6 inch homemade guide bolts in the bellhousing for the 4 speed to slide into the clutch disc and pilot bushing went right in. Try two guide bolts when you do it next time made from some long bolts.I made a TH-cam video of it after the fact check it out I cursed my ____ off, I feel your pain. I think the plastic tool is too small in length and causing the problem I used the same one couldnt find my old wooden one thats like 10 inches long. Car is coming along Keep up the good work !
Thanks for the tips. I have never had this much trouble with this tranny. Just didn't want to cooperate that day I guess. I was actually getting ready to go get some long bolts for guides and it finally went in. I'll have them handy next time and hopefully it'll help. Thanks for watching.
Lol I have an input shaft out of a three spd I've used for over 40 years and 2 guide bolts lol ,
Nice to see progress again this week even with all the troubles you are closer than last week! It's going to be worth it in the end when cruising around town!
Thanks John, I hope t all comes together someday...
I would reuse the press plate bolts too. They're not like head bolts where there's a long shank to stretch.
Thanks man!
Great job chassis looks gret
Thanks again Carmelo!
I just did the same dance two days ago with my 57. A Muncie transmission on a Centerforce Clutch. I think it was the roller bushing in the crank. I also worked up a sweat.
I had that tranny, and a different one, in and out of there several times, always from under the car, and never struggled like that! I hope it goes easier next time around. Thanks for watching!
I reused the pressure plate bolts several times on my GTO, never had any problem at all. The problem I had was when I had the wrong length throwout bearing. I finally figured it out, but not before I struggled for hours. Of course, it was my first stick shift car, and I didn't have anyone to talk me through it. I know you'll have better luck than I did, I look forward to seeing you out there putting it through the paces.
Thanks man. I need to do some research on the throwout bearing before I pull the trans again. I appreciate you watching.
feel you man, it took so many hours of work to get my 67 4 speed trans to hook up to my 74 350. took hours of angles and didn't understand as I did it like 6 times to different motors and it was that it as 4mms out but putting it on in the snow took 30 mins XD
Sometimes things just don't want to cooperate I guess. Thanks for watching!
I was peeping that clutch linkage hard. Lol. Same issue with the engine side bracket I bought. Ordered another and if it's got the right size ball I'll let ya know. Also thanks for demonstrating why I should never pull the trans... 🤐
Yeah, never pull the trans, bad idea for sure haha. I found a clutch ball that works. I hope yours does as well. Thanks for watching!
That starter may act differently with a battery hooked to it. I can relate to that input shaft and pilot bushing fight lol.
I have never found a charger that would even crank a starter over without a battery hooked to it. Like many I have an old input shaft to line disc up. I think mine was an old m22 muncie. I was "lucky" on tranny line ups. My brother would fight and cuss for hours...
Thanks guys. I thought i had turned my engine over with that battery charger before, but now I remember I was just testing a starter. It did spin the starter no problem, but I guess it doesn't have the amps to spin the engine. I have had this yranny in and out several times, and never had to struggle like this before. Hopefully it goes better next time...
@@MontanaGarage my issue was the new pilot bushing. It fit the snout of the trans really tight but the line up tool fell right in.
Keep up the great work. Love your videos.
Hey man I appreciate that!
Reminds me of working on the 4-speed in my old Chevelle. Did that more times then I care to remember. Some of the damage was self-inflicted because I was in a hurry. Look forward to seeing more on the '55. You got this. The 'far-away' view is good for something but would have been interesting to see the start issues closer. Be safe and stay well.
Thanks for the input Brian. Much appreciated. 👊
Give that 🐈 a wrench, he wants to help, I've never had a problem reusing pressure plate or flex plate bolts, but yea I torque them down a couple of foot pounds more, thanks for sharing Brother Brad Aloha and Hang Loose
Thanks man! Yeah, Moose needs to do more work around here...
Moose is being a typical shop supervisor by just looking and not lending a hand... err... paw. Just like some people we've all met.
You were only "this close" to throwing a wrench? You will never be good at reality TV then. ;)
Keep at the project. The struggle is still real but one step forward that isn't on a land mine is progress.
You're right, maybe some good old wrench throwing would help pick up some viewers. Maybe I'll try that next time haha. Thanks as always Joe!
Don’t forget to test fit your exhaust manifolds or headers after you build your bracket for the ball of the zbar
Thanks for watching David. Yep, already checked. I had to "massage" one header tube just a touch, but it looks like they are gonna work. Mob rules!
Here's a tip. Take some longer bolts and cut the heads off then round them and cut a slot in the end. Screw them in to the upper transmission holes. Use them a guilds and it will align the transmission. Then use a screw driver and put out the alignment screws and replace them with the right bolts.
Thanks man. I will definitely do that next time. Hopefully it results in less struggle!
Even when using the plastic alignment tool, the clutch Dick almost ALWAYS drops slightly so things don’t align. Had my trans in and out many times and always had to push up on alignment tool before tightening pressure plate. Next time, look through bellhousing before tightening up. Should see that it’s probably not lined up
Thanks for the tip and for watching Mike. I just installed the tranny again (video soon) and it wasn't quit as bad this time, but still a struggle. I'll peek through the bellhousing next time like you suggest.
Here's a tip buy 4 long bolts (4 inch) Cut off the heads cut a slot into each bolt and hand screw them into the bell hsgn. They will act as alignment dowels and they can be screwed in or out using a screw driver.
Thanks for the tip. I was just about to try this when I finally got it to go in. I am just getting ready to take the tranny back out to change bellhousings, so I'll try this for sure this time if there is any struggle at all. I appreciate you watching and trying to help.
Andy's going to do it all over when he gets the right bellhousing a lot of extra work
Yep. It's not supposed to be that much work though. Hopefully it'll go smoother when I change the bell housing...
Next time you pull that tranny, take a couple long bolts and cut the heads off. The bolts will help you to align the tranny when you do the final install after the bell housing or scattershield. Simple trick, but helps a TON!
That's a good tip. I was thinking the same 👍👍👍
Thanks Daniel. I was just getting ready to go grab some long bolts to do that with when it finally went in. I just never had this much trouble in the past. I will definitely have some on hand for the next battle though...
Man that looks like a struggle, though it was a pain trying to get my nv4500 lined up
It fought me a bit... Thanks for watching.
Try the transmission without the bellhousing....Or with transmission in low place input shaft in place to turn input shaft....
I've tried all kinds of stuff, as I had to re-do it once since then. Seems to be a struggle no matter what.
Lol… headlights. Flywheel bolts are longer usually than the flex plate bolts and pressure plate bolts are up to you. I do reuse unless a racing kit, then I use new. Extensions reduce torque applied pressure relative to the length of the extension. Longer is more reduction… I used to know the amounts per length. Next time use a battery along with the charger. You need amps and volts! South west Speed. Ask for Toby or AJ. Tell them Brant sent you! Great driveshaft and great price! Good folks to deal with. Aloha
Thanks s always Brant!
I've never replaced the pressure plate bolts. Maybe I should have but I ran a 440 4speed Mopar for years with no problems. Heck I never heard you were not supposed to reuse them. A battery will put out 500 to 800 amps and spin the starter which will probably draw 300 or so. Even a big charger won't put out enough.
Thanks Walter. That's what I am hearing about the battery charger. Seems like I should have been smart enough to know that... Guess I know now! I appreciate you watching and offering advice.
I am building my 55 and sorry but I have to laugh when you say nothing goes right or it take an hour to do something that should take 5 minutes and it's always a struggle! Man o man I feel your pain!!!
Story of my life. Glad to hear it's not just me. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching!
Also what if you moved the factory bracket back and drilled 2 new holes in it
That would probably work fine, but I am losing the bolt holes in the bellhousing so need a different plan. Thanks!
@@MontanaGarage it'd get you rolling but once the body is on it'd be really hard to build that bracket hahaha
Dump the high torque starter and get a starter for a 409 Chevy engine. It is a bolt in swap and a better starter.You need a bell crank brace to bolt up to the two holes in the bell housing.
Thanks for the tips Henry. The bellhousing mounts will not work for me in this application, as I will be replacing the bellhousing.
Some times when aggravation leads to discomfort, its better to walk away and do some thing else , and then return to the problem and it usually becomes easy. I didnt notice , have you ran your new brake and fuel lines on the frame yet? Now is a good time if you havent while the body is off. Anyway , its looking great.
Thanks Randy. I would like to do that with the body off, as it sure would be easier. I may or may not make it happen though.
I just came in from installing the Muncie 4spd back in my '36 Chevy coupe. It's got a 283 with a '57 bell housing and I went through the same thing. The alignment tool slid in and out nice but, we had to fight the trans. Luckily it was on my hoist and their was two of us. And yes, I'll buy your '55 post and park it next to my '55 post I've had since '76. I came here because My clutch for looks like it's too far through it's stroke to work correctly but your's looks the same.
Yeah for some reason these things can be a bugger to get in. I think I installed the trans once more after this video to change the bellhousing. Unfortunately, I did have something wrong with the clutch fork/throwout bearing, as it made all kinds or racket once the car was running and the clutch was depressed. I think I had the throwout bearing on the fork wrong, but I haven't gone back to check the footage. So, I did have to take the trans out of the car once it was all together, obviously this time from underneath. Somehow when I put the trans back in that time, it actually went in easy for a change. Hopefully your won't need done three times... Thanks for watching.
@@MontanaGarage Only minutes ago, I found out "55 - '57 Chevies used LONG throw out bearings. I'm pulling my trans in a few minutes because it wasn't fun enough only doing it once!
@@lylejohnston4125 Bummer. Welcome to the "do it at least twice mafia", I am a long time member... My '57 has a long throwout bearing, and I "think" my '55 had a long one when I disassembled it years ago, so I was concerned about the shorter one working. I think I had a spare long one and mocked it up with that, and there was no way it was going to work. I think maybe since I used an aftermarket clutch fork, it changed the angle requiring the shorter bearing.
Yeah brad got to be careful now summit jegs and others call a lot of LS stuff Small block on a lot of parts now !! I noticed that the fist time u pulled the alinement tool out it had to pull hard on it to pull out ! Id defiantly dial indicate the new bell-housing make sure it’s all lined up Centrically get work man !!!
Thanks Fiano. I'll have to look into aligning the bellhousing as it is probably a good idea.
Get the right release bearing, you won't have enough throw with the short bearing collar and that clutch fork.
Thanks for the tip Jessie. I though maybe I could just adjust the clutch linkage to make up for it, but I'll probably grab a longer one when I pull the tranny back out.
@@MontanaGarage with that open bottom bell housing, loosen the clutch bolts, so the disc can move, you'll be able to get the transmission into the pilot bushing easyer, 72 and done a few!
Your Lakewood Scatter Shield should have mounting bracket on the side, mine does. Of course, this video is from 1 year ago. Sorry. As you probably found out, long or short clutch release bearing is crucial, per the arm you are using to actuate the clutch. Again, a year too late. ;)
I'm 73 and starting over on my 56. I feel your pain!! ;)
I think I originally ordered one that did not have any brackets on it, but then changed to the actual trifive style with the brackets after the first one was on backorder forever. I need to rewards ghis video to see if I installed the throw out bearing wrong, because it gave me issues once I was able to drive the car. Thanks for watching!
That clutch piece with 2 holes can you add another hole sliding piece backwards using from right to left holes 2 and 3
[ + @ @ O ]
That could work. I will be using a different bellhousing, so I will not have the mounting holes, so it won't work in my case. Thanks for watching!
Where are you at with the underside of the body? Is it painted and undersealed? You can't be far from mounting it to the chassis I'm thinking.
Thanks Scott. Yeah the underside is all ready to go. Not sure if links work in the comments, but check this video out to see how that went. th-cam.com/video/E5I-7Ai8-gk/w-d-xo.html
I pretty much need some warmish weather to paint the firewall, then I'll be ready to put the body back on the frame.
Did you level the carburator when installing the rear trans mount....
I did and it id pretty close. I will double check that when I get the car more together and at ride height, and I can easily space the crossmember up or down a touch if needed. Thanks for the tip!
You got a "Jack" laying around the shop???
Yep, sure do. Thanks for watching!
I think your starter will be ok using a battery. Just try it.
I think you're right Gary. Thanks for the advice!
I hope you get to go on the Raceweek. I'm planning on meeting up with you. You could stay here in my spare bedroom. Would save you some cash for a hotel. I'll even feed ya with a home cooked meal. I'm about 15 minutes from Tulsa drag strip. Serious offer.
And I live right next to historic Route 66
Wow, I appreciate the offer and I hope I get to take you up on that man. I'd probably want to stick around for too long picking your brain about too much stuff though! Whether Race Week, or sometime in the future, I'd love to come by and hang out for a bit so hopefully we can make it happen someday. I gotta get caught up on some of your vids. Good luck finishing up the hardtop!
@@MontanaGarage I think it'd be cool. If your bringing your boy or your wife, I got room. I got a welder and tools if you need fixing. Also you can leave a truck/trailer here
@@haffrods7055 That is awesome man. Again, much appreciated. My son is planning on going so it should be a fun trip. I hope it happens, but I better get moving or wait list or not my car isn't gonna be done.
Battery charger only puts out up to 200amps and you need 600 cranking amps or better to spin it over. So that starter may be fine.
That is what I am hearing. I could have swore I turned tis thing over with a different starter in the just the charger in the past, but I think I was just testing a bare starter. Oh well. I already sent it back so gotta get something else regardless. I appreciate the info though. Seems like I shoulda been smart enough to know that... haha
@@MontanaGarage without the plugs in it it might spin over a little better too
I put the wrong throughout bearing in and had no clutch so had to disassemble to replace bearing then had plenty of clutch....
Bummer man. Glad it worked out in the end.
Dang-it son, I don’t know what you done did do, but, I’m proud of you……The angle of the dangle of your tail shaft looks more in-line with the rear diff-yoke. If all you did was “dangle your dingle”……then please don’t tell me!!! This old man knew you could do It. I’m not a mean old man, but I kind of enjoyed watching you struggle!!! LOL 👁👁 😤 🤕 😁
Haha glad you enjoy the struggle. It seems there is a lot of it around here! I appreciate you watching!
Years ago the chevy parts man sold me the wrong throw out bearing that was too long ,when installed the clutch pressure plate was pushed in all the time .
There were two throw out bearings available long and short depending on style of pressure plate being used. Should always check the replacement against original before installation with any part. Saves from using magic words.
Bummer. I was hoping with the shorter one I'd just have to adjust the clutch linkage to make it work? Not sure. Maybe I'll track down the longer one when I pull the tranny again.
If you use that plastic alignment tool 9 out of 10 times it'll never be right the best thing is to get a old axle that matches your spleens that's made out of metal put a handle on it with weld and if you use that you'll never have a problem with the transmission sliding right in little bit of grease on the pilot bearing and it goes in 10 out of 10 times something about that plastic let's just don't play with the weight of everything to make it not align and you'll struggle every time just like you did nice build got some nice tri fives there
Thanks for the tip. I've hard that before. I do need to pull this tranny again soon. Maybe I can come up with a metal input shaft soon so I can find out if it does indeed help. I appreciate you watching!
Why not try making two bald studs in top holes of BH to help wit alignment
Thanks Carmelo. I just hadn't needed to do that in the past when installing this trans. I was just getting ready to go buy some longer bolts to do this with when it finally went in. Next time I'll have some for sure. Thanks for the membership as well. Much appreciated!
@@MontanaGarage you got it buddy
Why did you put side mounts and a crossmember in the frame? I have run big blocks in tri fives with stock mounts for ever ! I am building a 55 gasser with a 302 and crossram with a T 10 . Im using stock mounts again . I don't understand the whole side mount thing .
Was saying the same thing to myself. Never had any problems with stock setup
Pedestal mounting up front and bell housing side mounting in rear. 4 speed hung on bell housing no need for trans mount. People tend to make more problems trying to change something that works.
Glad they work for you guys. In the past mine would tear up the rear mounts, causing the engine to sag, which would allow the dizzy to hit the firewall when the engine torqued. I didn't want to fight with that anymore, so I made a change.
@@MontanaGarage i just ask because all the guys on these videos are changing to side mounts. I always put new mounts in with every motor change, never had any issues ,,,, never
check out pd electric on ebay good prices on starters&alt. also check out poor mans power steering replaces bushing in the idler arm with a bearing works good .keep up the good work!!
got it backward it is db electrical sorry !1
Thanks man, I'll look into db electric. I'm planning on trying one of the idler arms with the bearing uprade too. I apprecite you watching.
I think you should let moose finish the car.
Good idea. Some one has to finish it, I certainly am never gonna get it done at this rate. Thanks for watching!
You should sh!tcan that plastic installation tool. Try to find someone that does rebuilds and cut the end off an old input gear, works much better.
Thanks for the tip. I'll try and find one for next time!
Note to self. , Make sure iam in 1st gear before big Burnout
Yeah, third gear doesn't work so good. At least it didn't for me...
Well I always heard the same thing about bell housing bolts.and I've never reused them
Interesting. I hadn't heard it about the bell housing bolts, just the pressure plate and flywheel. Thanks for watching and for the input.
@@MontanaGarage ok yes I just dont reuse any of them
Clutch tool was too tight, gotta move smoothly in and out.
Thanks for the tip. I will be dropping the trans yet again soon, so I will keep that in mind next time. I appreciate you watching!
HELLO. MONTANA. GARAGE. SHIFT THE. TRANSMISSION. INTO. GEAR. AND. A. DRVE SHAFT. YOKE. TURN. THE. TRANSMISSION. ALIGN. THE. INPUT. SHAFT. WHICH. WAS. STOPPING. YOU. SHOULD. USE. A. FLOOR. JACK. WITH. ADJUSTABLE. TABLE. .GOOD. LUCK.
Thanks for all the tips Harold. I tried most of that. In my case, I think it was just the pilot bushing stopping me. I'll most likely be installing the tranny again soon, so I am prepared for another fight!
be easier to put 350 auto trans with a 3,000 stall converter
Easier sure, but 4 speed...
ALL COMMENTS GETTING DELETED BRAD, DON'T KNOW Y ? ALL GOOD POSITIVE COMMENTS. TIME TO MOVE ON , I GUESS. ADIOS
Hey Bill I don't know anything about comments getting deleted. I certainly haven't deleted any of your comments man. I appreciate you always watching and commenting. If some of your comments aren't showing up or getting deletedI am not sure why.
This video was hard to watch. Way to much effort. I've had to replace a clutch along side of road and didn't have as much trouble as you did.
Well thanks for watching anyhow. I've also done it several times with much less struggle, but not this time I guess.
@@MontanaGarage always find your videos entertaining. A lot of problems are caused by wrong parts. Not like back in the day when parts person knew what he was selling not just a number in the book chevy had 2 styles of clutch pressure plates. 3 finger "long" style and multiple finger borg&beck diaphragm style. Also have to be careful with disc spline count.
@@joepacheco4038 Thanks for the tips Joe!