GM Chevy Truck Cluster Diag & Repair Tutorial
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2017
- GM Trucks instrument clusters from the late 90s and 2000s are notorious for developing annoying issues as they age.
In this video I cover the diagnosis and repair of the "top three" problems that plague these clusters:
-Erratic or stuck gauges (@20:15 solder in new stepper motor)
-Burned out backlight bulbs (@ 20:15 solder in new bulbs)
-Dim or missing PRNDL display (@31:00 solder resistors)
There are many forum posts and other videos on TH-cam that deal with the issues above, as well as less common problems that may arise.
My source for replacement stepper motors and backlight bulbs:
www.ebay.com/itm/6PCs-GM-GMC-S...
Enjoy!
Ivan - บันเทิง
My 20 year old daughter who is just now studying automotive technology in college, followed your instructions regarding no PRNDL display found three resistors that had separated, re-soldered them and low and behold, PRNDL is back, so thanks. She told me she could do it but I was skecptable, and so I was proved wrong, so thanks for your help.
There is an easier way to realign the needles. What you need is a connector that plugs in the back (get one from a junkyard) and apply 12V I cant remember which wires but if you look at the schematic you will see which 2 wires. Once you apply the power, each stepper motor goes to the bottom RESET position and then based on the EEPROM value stored in the cluster goes to NULL or ZERO position. The stepper motors get "locked" in that position for about 20 seconds but that gives you enough time to perfectly position the needle. Repeat for each stepper motor. It is important to look from the same angle that you will be looking at the cluster when installed in vehicle or they will be visually off. I replaced all the stepper motors and all 10 light bulbs on 2006 Chevy Trailblazer, which is basically the same as the one you are working on. If one or two bulbs died, the other ones are near the end of the life too. I have a professional soldering station with very fine point which helps with this job.
NULL and ZERO on the speedometer and tachometer are very different.. without marking the true position the needle was in when you removed it, chances are your speedo is now off.
this can be remediated by unlocking the car in hptuners and using a gps to adjust the speedo, chances are it was incorrect from the factory anyway
Couple things to add to save some people some head ache:
When plugging the bare board back into the truck, don't let the board touch any of the brackets or fasteners. Those will be grounded and can cause shorts and blow out components.
The microprocessor is static sensitive so follow ESD rules.
And like the others have said, just replace all the back lighting bulbs and stepper motors, other wise you'll be right back in soon chasing problems.
Love your repair video's
can an instrument/cluster have a short that causes battery drain? when I reconnect the ground cable to the battery there is moderate sparking and the oil pressure gauge jumps
@@wesleydetrickd.c.5440 seeing a spark isn't a good indication of continuous current draw. Install a current meter in the fuse location to monitor the key off draw.
Same happened to my ‘04 Silverado. Had circuit board medics fix mine. New LED blueish green backlights, new stepper motors, resolder PRNDL, and added a trans temp gauge, all for about $250.00! Very happy with the work, and it’s been about 4 years with no problems!
If your vehicle don't come with a trans temperature do you have to add wiring from your transmission to your gauger however it's connected for the trans temperature to work
@@rickjones6798 not on my truck. The sensor and wiring were already there since the computer already monitors the trans and can put a “trans hot” message on the display. Circuit board medic just added a gauge motor and needle so I can monitor it all the time. This was on my 04 Silverado, other trucks could be different.
If you have a bulb or two burned out just replace all of them. They all age at the same rate. When you bump a bulb and it lights again you've fused the filament together again, but it'll be shorter so draw more current. It'll last a few months, then burn out again.
Thanks for the tips. I replaced some bulbs & stepper motors 2 days ago without really knowing what I was doing. My bulbs didn't work but after watching this video I learned a few things. 1, I didn't know the bubs came out of the little blue holders. I simply trimmed them and soldered them back to the board. Plus the bulbs I replaced were a different shape & color. know that I know they can go back into the blue holder I can go back & retry to place them. 2, the resistors need to be checked because my entire light cluster does not work except for a few bulbs. I didn't know or think to check those. I thought I would have to either buy a new cluster or send it in to get repaired. Thanks for the great video, I made sure to subscribe to the channel because I have a 2003 Oldsmobile Bravada and you have a lot of great info
Wow! The best and most thorough video on this topic! Very helpful to me and my 05 GMC!
I think this you are the best automotive electritian ive seen on youtube ! Alot to be learned on this channel ! Been following a couple years now
Excellent instruction video. Thanks so much for taking the time to teach others. I'm going to work on my PRDL.
Just wanted to let you know that was an awesome video watched it last night pulled my cluster out and resoldered those resistors on my 05 suburban and now I have a prndl thank you so much 🤙🏼😎
Nice 👍👌😁
Nice repair Ivan. Saved sending out the IPC for repair.
Thanks for this video, I was able to repair my gauge cluster in under a half hour
in case anyone is interested the needles are called pointers. I retired from the place that made the cluster. I was a stock chaser
nice tutorial! had to replace all stepper motors and bulbs (went with blue leds) in my '05 earlier this year. will have to go back in for the prndl goin dim though. gotta diy when it's an accessible and simple project.
Great video on the repair well done! Combining a lot of different repairs into one
I came to your channel looking for a way to fix my parasitic draw caused by my cluster but I still love the video!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥 THUMBS UP AND NEW SUBSCRIBER!!!
Did you ever figure that out I’m trying to see if the stepper motor is causing the parasitic draw on a hummer h2 but before I replace it I’m trying to figure out what part of the cluster is causing the parasitic draw
@@eddiegonzalez5775 my radio was staying on. But I did replace my stepper motors.
Thank you for making this video. Now I know what I need to do to fix the few issues. Again, THANK YOU!
I love your ethos for such a young guy if you can fix it you will, instead of O you need a new part. I'm old school and if i can fix it i will saves the customer money. Happy customer the more your reputation goes up the more people come to you. No need to advertise your work does if for you.
Illuminating information Ivan. Well done. Thanks!
That was my goal here...just a simple and clear DIY summary for the millions of Chevy truck owners out there :)
What a great video you saved someone hundreds for a rebuilt dash Thanks for your videos keep up the great work
Ivan!! This is awesome video! Thanks so much! I need to do replace my stepper motors on my suburban. I have the same cluster as this. This is absolutely helpful! Now, I'll get busy ordering new stepper motors and stuff. Follow your video to a T. You got many thumbs up from me!! Cheers!
Hey Josh, that makes my day that this info will be helpful :) Let me know how your cluster rebuild goes! It's actually a fun process.
Hey Ivan, went very well. Followed your video how to replace my stepper motors. I bought the butane iron like yours off eBay, same for the stepper. The gages work great! No more crazy jumping gages and oil pressure gage going bad. All is well!! Success!!!
Awesome timing for this video Ivan!!!!! I am having issues with my display .
Awesome! Let me know if you get it fixed, Dave!
Ivan, Watched the video last night, this morning tackled my daughters '04 Suburban. Using the slight tug method, two resistors came loose. A couple of quick solders, good as new. Thanks.
Glad you got it back on track, John! I hope your daughter appreciated your efforts as well :)
not John billy
B i l l y M e r r i l l “not John?”
great video as always Ivan
Great fix ivan, valuable video this is very common 👍 thanks for sharing
As a GMC (2007) 2500HD owner thank you, thank you! My PRNDL is ok but the info below it is so dim I can't read it most of the time. Going to try this fix. Thanks Ivan, this is a hugh help. Going to try the soup one of these days as well!
Top notch repair Ivan. I wonder how many techs would actually bother with this kind of repair! Seems like a waste to replace the whole unit over a few stepper motors, 2 bulbs and a few bad traces. The other week i fixed a Siemens servo motor on a CNC for a friend of mine. Service engineer wanted to replace it. All it was, was some bad traces on the board for the motor brake.
Hello Ivan great video I don't understand why you don't have more subscribers you do great videos. Well no matter I will always watch you guys I really enjoy watching your thought process
A good channel gains subscribers like a rolling snowball grows. I found SMA when it had 1200 subs and its about to crack 100K! I predict Ivan and you will do the same.
Robinson's Auto Diagnostics I
Hey Mike, it was great to see you at the ASA training this past weekend! It's all about the right combination of Quality and Quantity...the goal is to have both :)
+Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics you definitely have both Ivan 😉
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics hey ivan
Also you don't have to take the gauge face off that just creates more headaches in the end once you get the needles off all you have to do is pop the back cover off and take the PCB board out
Your soldering skills are much better than mine.
Excellent camera work, thank you.
Best video on this out there! Thank you!
Awesome video. Thanks. Some helpful advice from a custom drone builder, your Soldering skills would be leveled up with a "ts100" Soldering iron and a wet Sponge to clean the tip. You will be in love with it and wouldn't turn back.
Great video Ivan. Good to see you on. Have to have a steady hand for that job. Your series on the optometry equipment was killer.
Hey Ivan not sure if you can get one for your iron but I've found that chisel tips work really well. They help get better heat into your joint weather it be wire or surface mount components.
Great tip (no pun intended)!
Gonna change lamps dash cluster in my Chevy van asap
Thanks .
Excellent 👌
Exactly what I needed. Clear, concise and spot on!!! THANK YOU !!!
cant wait until next video tnx Ivan
I'll remember this video if my cluster ever acts up. My Chevy truck is 12 years old so I'll keep an eye out for this issue and thanks to you, I'll have the confidence to attack it.
It's not a question of "if" but "when" ;)
Using that butane iron for surface mount is about as painful as replacing a clutch using only an adjustable wrench and a hammer.
Please consider a $50-100 temperature controlled iron. Soldering will be much easier, create more reliable and consistent joints, and be significantly less likely to cause damage to components and boards. Right tool for the job, and all that.
TS-100 is portable. Hands down best soldering iron
Ivan great video, have a great day. Keith
Great video Ivan!!!
You can get a decent soldering iron for a reasonable price.
That being said you seem to be comfortable with what you are using, I would recommend a iron stand with the sponge in it's base to make it a bit easier for you. Dampen the sponge and you'll find it easier to keep you solder tip clean.
Oh and a flux pen would be advantageous too when trying to reflow the old solder, I hate leadfree solder...
Awesome video, Ivan! I noticed the reset when you started installing the gauge needles. I thought OH NO! Lol 😂
It's nice when a handy internet video can lead to a solid fix. I know I rely on these as well.
But after a while you learn that they aren't always helpful and in some cases a multitude of agreement by the Internet Experts is still not the answer. Such was the case with a 2005 Chevy Astro and the infamous ABS problem. "Redo a couple solder joints on the module" was the consensus but it was not the fix. 3 independent shops and 2 dealers later it's still unsolved
Subscribed. Useful content. Keep up the good work.
I have the same soldering iron! Actually two. I bought one after I thought I lost the first. I made that one my permanent mini-torch.
thank you for your time,can the odometer also be repaired?I have owend my truck for many years,would love to see it reach 5oo,ooo miles.
Good job Ivan.
Did you see the speedo jump when you revved it after the fix? Is that stray voltage or more problems looming I wonder?
Thanks man. Good video . Very detailed.
Great video, Learned alot, Thanks
Well done and very informative..thanks for this video! From🇸🇽
I've decided to go with blue incandescents, but I have another question: It looks like there are 4 soldering points under each bulb seat; how to you know which pair of to use. Obviously you'd want to watch which ones it came off of, but in case you didn't catch that...
Welcome to the wonderful world of surface mount
Cracked solder joints can also happen with through hole componends.
great video ,just wanted to hear more about p. drain that could also occur!! i got the light and battery drain issues!
Your'e back comrade yay
You sound like that Canadian turbo jet guy 🤣 great vid thanks for the help💪🏼
Use of 'lead free' solder used in surface mounted devices and hand soldering will crack overtime. Suggest reflowing all solder joints. A pain I know but this will avoid call backs. Suggestion - DUMP the butane heat club and get a variable wattage iron as suggested below.
All the best, Dr. Skip
I gotta agree with you Skip - lead free solder just aint as reliable as the old-school lead solder. I was biting my nails too watching Ivan with that blowtorch!
They use lead free from the factory i think. EPA regulations and all that. They are known for the cracking you speak of
Nice repair. The brown on the CB masking is from the illumination bulbs. Take apart an old display and you will see where the bulbs make the board turn almost black. Next time you folks go shopping get a couple cheap COPPER pot scrubbers at the dollar store. Stick one into the weighted bottom of a can with some silicone. When you solder just stick the tip in there and rotate/withdraw and the old crusty crud will be gone.
Yeah the problem with doing that Blazer, is that the abrasion will eventually wear off the iron plating from today's modern soldering iron tips. Once that happens, EVERY single soldering joint you make with that tip from that point onwards will eat away some copper from the tip. Eventually you'll end up with a hollow tip with craters of copper eaten away, & just the iron plating remaining. I find the best way to keep a soldering iron tip clean is to just wipe it (often) on a piece of dry rag or paper towel. As has been mentioned before, a wet cloth or paper towel applies too much thermal shock to the tip, which is no good for it either.
@@nevillegoddard4966 Not a big deal for me as tips are consumable items and I don't see any more real world wear with either method. Might also depend on the tips you use and how well you keep them tinned.
Thank you Ivan!
First! And you're using the DS708. Love it! Autel just gave away free updates through Dec 2017 if your DS708 expired after Jan 2015. Just got mine updated this week. Was a nice surprise
Free updates?? Cool, sign me up :)
Your subscription had to have expired after 1/1/15 to get an update. It's still obsolete since they've said no more updates after Dec 2017, though. I'm still pretty thrilled since I picked up my DS708 on Craigslist, complete, for $225 in 2016 with a 2015 update.
Just make sure you have a backup card in case anything happens. I don't update my existing card but, rather, put a new card in the scanner, fire it up until it errors, then pull the card out and put it in my laptop and fire up the PCLink software. Then I download all the software fresh and keep the old card as a backup.
Make sure that free update isn't actually a free bricking! They have been in court A LOT lately because you use unlicensed coding in the scanners. The free updates might remove certain features which brings them into compliance.
Mach One That's why you always use a new SD card, keep the old card as a backup, and don't update through the tool. Some devices were bricked while updating via the tool over wifi but it was due to a device networking update of some kind. I have the fix for that but haven't experienced it. Regardless, updates are free if your device expired after 1/1/2015. The update gave me GM up through 2017 so it's worth the trouble as previously I only had up to 2014. That's all I've tested so far.
That's great advice to keep the spare SD card with the original software. Mine is upgraded to 2014 so not sure if it's eligible. My theory about tools and cars is "if it works, don't touch it" haha
EXCELLENT One question. what kind of Autel you use? Thanks
I just replaced mine in my '03 this past spring, I had no PRNDL forever, and some of the back lighting didn't work, didn't bother me, but suddenly the cluster would just go dead while I was driving. sometimes it would come back with a key cycle sometimes not. at first it only happened a couple times, then It was happening every time I was in the truck. I made the decision to replace it, if It was just a gauge or two I would have did the stepper motors. It was only like $580(Canadian) parts and programing.
@kenman 1717
You have a link for the Canadian store, and do you think they sell the stepper motor and bulb set.
Thanks in advance my friend
@@Madskills-hw2ox i got mine from a Chevy dealer, i don't think they sell the stepper motors, pretty sure they come aftermarket.
@@kenman1717
Thank you 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice, detailed video.
Nice video. It happens to my aveo5. All gauges are ok but no light in cluster and no position lights on right side. Any idea to help my issue? Thanks!
Great video well done
the glass on both mine and yours looks burnt just to the left of "p" of park, mine is acting crazy too, so i am trying to poke around and learn a bit. also i have the "dic" and its right most corner looks burnt too.
Great video, thank you!
Exselecte trabajo amigo
Hey, I have a bad oil stepper gauge and no PRDN display. I also have a significant parasitic drain form the cluster, do u know what causes the drain and is it easily fix like resolder loose connection?
what about the lights for the cruise control, high beam, etc?
Looked like it had zero oil pressure on startup.
That soldering iron is sweet .. Never seen a sucker one like that
one thing: would you tell me what is the wire that turn low oil level on when the oil pan is low) what gauge or what color of the wire is?
Ok, so I have recently noticed that in my 04 Silverado the cluster is slowly going out. Also I have a slow drain on my battery. You mentioned the slow battery drain what do you recommend as far as the slow drain on the battery. Is it a replacement thing or something I can fix on the cluster. Thanks
Was the oil pressure working?
I had the same problem with my 04 2500HD many years ago. I received a recall notice from GM saying they will replace the cluster on vehicles with 70,000 miles or less. I had 75,000 and they replaced it under there "loyalty" program. I'm told it was due to a bad ground within the unit.
Bendito TH-cam. Thanks for sharing !!!
I am going to have to take my cluster apart as well. I have gauges not working and a short in the ipc/dic. Any idea what that short could be? I am guessing maybe a bad gauge motor?
Did Eric O. hide some of his chirping crickets under the owners hood of that truck? Dang
I suppose if I could pile on I would say to test everything before reassembly so you don’t have to take it all apart again. That also seems like a better time to put the needles back on so you can make sure you get them lined up with 0.
Very helpful video
Hi. I have a 98 C3500 Silverado and although everything on my cluster seems to work, my speedometer is definitely off by about 10mph, especially when I'm at higher speeds (50-70mph). At lower speeds (30mph), its usually off about 5-7mph...Any ideas on correcting this? Tks!
Great vid! Would've never guessed what could've caused the dim PRNDL.
Man, do automakers SUCK today or what?!? Cluster in my '72 El Camino was 100% OE, 30 years after it left the showroom, and everything worked! Also miss the 194 bulbs that you could just PULL OUT by HAND, and replace in 10 seconds ...
I did a '05 Mustang cluster a few years back. Very easy - even easier than the GM trucks. Just removing the cluster from the dash wasn't as easy. Nice moneymaker though. :) Only had to replace the speedometer stepper motor. Everything else was good.
I saw SolidDiagnostics using some masking tape and making a mark of the needle on that masking tape (which he stuck on the face of the tach).
Very good job
How were the WT and the OPG gauges after your test drive for needle sweep with your BDS?
Great Video! I have had my 4WD light out forever. No big deal. However, my battery warning light stays on (dimmly) all the time even when the truck is off. I have tested for parasitic draw and haven't found the problem. Is there any way the bulb tfor the battery warning light could actually short out on the panel. HELP PLEASE
John, years ago the charge light on my 1972 XA falcon (Australia) would always be just very slightly on, even when it was supposed to be off. The lamp was extinguished completely though after I fitted a heavy duty earth strap from the bell housing of the engine to the firewall. Not exactly sure why, but it worked.
Hi. I am looking for the speedo stepper motor for a 2003 volvo S40. Any thoughts on where i can located one?
Hi Ivan. Good video but not great. You forgot to tin the wires of the little globes first, therefore you cannot say you reflowed them. You only just tacked them. Hopefully they wont become dry joints in the future! You should have used a solder sucker to remove the solder from the board before fitting the lamps, & then you should have tinned only one of the pads. By tinning both you prevented the lamp from sitting flat on the board, then you had to visit the 2nd pad again to push the bulb down squarely. That's the wrong way to do it. In the end it looks to me like like you had soldering on lamps & pads about 5 times longer than you should have. Every time you have to apply the iron to the joint you evaporate more of the flux. Without flux, oxides can form. Also, you could have used silicon to secure the lamps in the little blue lampholders. This may stop the globes from rattling in the holders, & perhaps extend their lives.
I saw the stepper motor leads loose as a dick in a shirtsleeve. Did this not give you a hint? Why didn't you glue the motors down with a coupla dots of non-ascetic silicon? The motors obviously rattled themselves loose, so why didn't you secure them? How much of this - "replacing the stepper motors in the instrument cluster" caper is actually replacing perfectly fine stepper motors that have just shaken loose from their mountings AAND their electrical connections?
Please don't use a pick to check the security of surface-mount components? You could have very easily torn the metal foil contact off the ends of that resistor, rendering it useless. Or you could have so easily torn a track off the board. Buy a 5x magnifying monacle. You'll be able to see any cracks in the solder joints. You spent much too long with your iron touching those smd resistors as well. Don't piss around trying to push solder around the component - desolder the end with a solder sucker, then apply new solder (which has new flux) to the joint. The new solder & flux will flow into the joint like water.
Where was your little blue soldering iron? It would have been ideal for this job. And by the way, there's no way 'little blue' is a 65 watt iron. It's more like a 25 watt. More Chinese specification lies. Use the right iron for the right job, especially for tutorial videos.
Sorry mate, you didn't do real good this time! Very rare!
Realy good video gracias
year 2023 and I'm here trying to resolve my panel, I hope I can do this service at home.
My 2004 2500 HD cluster was replaced by the dealer due to a recall. Although I was 5k miles out of the warranty they did not charge us. I'll I had was 0 oil pressure display. I was told they had a bad ground.
IT's been a few years since you posted this... It looks like the replacement bulbs are incandescent; can these bulbs be replaced with LEDs? Any caveats to doing that (like having to replace ALL of them)? I don't need the stepper motors, and the only "bulbs only" kit has LEDs.
oil pressure still doesn't seem to work, did you get it fixed?
I would put a small piece of blue painters tape under the tips of the needles and mark the positions to get them exact.
thank you very much. Good job.
For the trip toggle, on the 2005 suburban circuit board there is a white circular piece inside a black piece. Is there another piece? How do they sit on the board? Scrolling no longer occurs when the toggle is pressed
Might as well get a G-Shock, Nice detailed job on the dash board fix, I think you just cut out a lot of 3rd party repair shops, people will feel a lot more confident on taking this job on them self's...
I have done this stepper motor change to my 2003 Chevy venture. but the needles are stuck in the far counter clockwise position.
when the key is in position 2, the gauges move up and back down again, is there a calibration that needs to be done and if so , how?